Topic #2, Light Metering, White Balance, JPEG vs RAW formats

IgsEMT · Jan 8, 2010

maybe you could touch upon how to fix WB, exposure and other things when shooting in RAW. many people say they use a gray card and then use an eye dropper to fix the WB. i dont know what that means lol.

Ideally, it's better to get it right in camera.
WB and Exposure, in programs like Adobe PS/LR Camera Raw, bible pro, dxo, acdsee, capture nx2, can be set using sliders and eye dropper/marque tool. However, if your monitor isn't calibrated, you are prone to have some errors.
Eye dropper: - you point to an area that is supposed to be neutral in color.
Marque - you select a general area of neutral colors where software will take an average of the scene and bring appropriate adjustments as it sees fit.

also, if i am shooting RAW, should i really fuss over settings and try getting them perfect, or should i just aim to get close? i usually shoot jpeg, but plan on shooting concerts where i most likely wont have correct setting all the time and cannot re-shoot.

Should you fuss depends on you. I found that b/n Nikons D300 and D90 LCD screens and prints I get (not from corner 1hr places) there is no variation of skin tones. Since, what I see on LCD is what I get in the print, I try to get the most accuracy (color, exposure) on lcd.
Plus, I prefer to spend time shooting rather then editing so again, I try to get my lcd look the way I need it to look in print. Later in PP I spend less time in front of a monitor and only add minor enhancements here/there if feel the need.

TylerF · Jan 8, 2010

Lol at the matrix thing

Thanks for replying to my post, I think its going to be trial and error for me lol. The concerts I go to are very fast paced and a lot of moving lighting.

Another question, how would I go about metering if I intend to use flashes? Thanks

Dominantly · Jan 8, 2010

TylerF said:
Lol at the matrix thing

Thanks for replying to my post, I think its going to be trial and error for me lol. The concerts I go to are very fast paced and a lot of moving lighting.

Another question, how would I go about metering if I intend to use flashes? Thanks

Will you be allowed to use flash? What glass are you taking (70-200 is ideal, 50mm will do)
I would knock Matrix/Evaluative off the list. If you zoom in with matrix selected, you will have stage lighting on the subjects face, then black surrounding the head. Matrix will try and balance to (middle gray) and cause the black to fade, and the face to overexpose.

Center weighted- Better then Matrix, but still not as good as spot. It will also take into consideration more of the scene, IE clothing (is the subject sparkling or wearing all black?!? :lol:

)... You'll want a meter that takes into consideration about 4% of the scene.

Spot-... It puts the spot on the face, or it gets the hose again..........:blushing:

Using flash/
But let me step back and say, if you own a SB-600 you can give the i-TTL balanced fill flash a shot, which will be served in Matrix mode. Take a shot, you like? Keep it there.

Auto FP High Speed Sync......Gives you the ability to use a fast shutter with crap lighting, to stop action and give you good light.

igloopants · Jan 13, 2010

Thanks for this thread

Craig G · Jan 13, 2010

Dominantly said:
Damn...

WELL, one of our modes has the word MATRIX in it, so it's +50 extra cool points.

Yea.......We have Neo..:thumbup:

Neo will defeat the machines. :lol:

Dominantly · Jan 23, 2010

Example from yesterday.

Conditions: Overcast, dark afternoon.

I was setting up my camera to take some shots, so I first adjusted my meter until it said good, while pointing it at the grass (I was going to be photographing alot of green), then I took a shot to see how it was going to look. I was not impressed, so I then spot metered off the concrete I was standing on (the path you see in the background), then took a shot and found what I was looking for.

straight out of camera.
1. Metering off scene/grass

2.Metering off concrete

johnnyg · Feb 4, 2010

great info.--will be comin' back for more--would like you to comment on my ? about 8mp vs. 10mp--thanx

AliasPros · Feb 4, 2010

thanks for all the info guys very helpful, think I'm gonna buy some bigger cards...

NikonD80Shooter · Feb 6, 2010

How do you meter on a gray card when your camera can't even focus on the card?

IgsEMT · Feb 6, 2010

How do you meter on a gray card when your camera can't even focus on the card?

metering is light intensity, focusing is sharpness. you could be blurred and out of focus yet well exposed; opposite is true...
so, you place your focus point on corner of the gray card (contrast tones), luck the focus and recompose on the card...
good luck

Dominantly · Feb 6, 2010

NikonD80Shooter said:
How do you meter on a gray card when your camera can't even focus on the card?

Like mentioned you do not have to be in focus to set your WB. In fact, there are devices that fit overs your lens like a shower cap, designed to give you an accurate WB measurement (Lally cap). A cheap but effective way to measure your WB is to place a coffee filter (like a Melitta), over your lens, then measuring your WB.
They are CHEAP CHEAP CHEAP, and weigh next to nothing, so why not take one along!