Durst M601 Urnov Copier Attachment

csholl66

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Hi,

My question: I was possibly thinking of getting a Durst Urnov copier attachment for my M601 enlarger. I want to know, what can I get in place of the Lighting system (Camflud 2 or 4) they have for this? This is for making negatives from prints (reversal). Would a strobe light possibly do? A link to the Camflud is below.




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Unlikely to work well, enlargers don't have a shutter on them. You'd have to do the old lens cap on/off manually for exposure control.

Unless I'm misunderstanding what you want to try to do.

The lights you have linked are for a copy stand, but usually a copy stand has a mounting for a camera to point down at the copy board. In which case those lights are just what you need.

Like these;

 
Unlikely to work well, enlargers don't have a shutter on them. You'd have to do the old lens cap on/off manually for exposure control.

Unless I'm misunderstanding what you want to try to do.

The lights you have linked are for a copy stand, but usually a copy stand has a mounting for a camera to point down at the copy board. In which case those lights are just what you need.

Like these;

Hi,

No, the enlarger head has a special fitting that goes under the lamphouse. The fitting gets sheet film of different sizes and has a pull out when you're ready to copy the print. then you expose whatever print you want and it is exposed to the negative. The lighting unit is to ensure even lighting of the print you are copying. It might work well for certain prints I want to expose to a negative, after having done all the leg work to get the print I wanted with the original negative, I thought. I was thinking of just using a strobe Light, however. The name of the copy attachment is Durst Urnov for the M601 Durst enlarger. In the manual, it says the exposure is made by turning the lights on and off through the timer. I don't think I need a shutter element.
 
I still think it would not yield satisfactory results. Control over exposure could vary a bit due to the lamps having to warm up and cool down every time you turn them on and off, so that take into account. Might cause inaccurate "shutter" speeds from one exposure to another.

But may be worth a try, just depends on what you are trying to use the copy neg for I suppose.

At a job I once had for a printing company we used a 4 x 5 camera to do this with. We used studio strobes and had polarizing filters to kill the glare on the print as well. Since the strobes were free standing, we could move them around for better lighting control.

We shot Ektachrome so we could drum scan artwork that was too big or inflexible to wrap on the drum. Worked well for us.
 
I still think it would not yield satisfactory results. Control over exposure could vary a bit due to the lamps having to warm up and cool down every time you turn them on and off, so that take into account. Might cause inaccurate "shutter" speeds from one exposure to another.

But may be worth a try, just depends on what you are trying to use the copy neg for I suppose.

At a job I once had for a printing company we used a 4 x 5 camera to do this with. We used studio strobes and had polarizing filters to kill the glare on the print as well. Since the strobes were free standing, we could move them around for better lighting control.

We shot Ektachrome so we could drum scan artwork that was too big or inflexible to wrap on the drum. Worked well for us.
Ok...thx for the info. I'm guessing you must be right then. I just thought since they made a separate adapter for that enlarger then it might be sufficient. The view camera technique sounds better, though, and since you're a professional at it it might be wise not to try the other. You were very helpful though. thx
 

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