On Restoring...

[pkrpkr]

Especially for the old bellows cameras with sticky shutters: screw off the shutter and the lenses and rinse the remaining shutter assembly in gasoline. Just shortly because the alcohol in the gasoline is aggressive. For lubrication I use teflon spray, but just a tiny bit - don't let it get on the shutter leaves, glass or diaphragm iris! Here is a host of repair sites

 

[Mitica100]

Especially for the old bellows cameras with sticky shutters: screw off the shutter and the lenses and rinse the remaining shutter assembly in gasoline. Just shortly because the alcohol in the gasoline is aggressive. For lubrication I use teflon spray, but just a tiny bit - don't let it get on the shutter leaves, glass or diaphragm iris! Here is a host of repair sites

Never use gasoline, it leaves a residue. Use Ronsonol or Naphta. Also, don't lubricate the shutter mechanism, it is designed to work without oil. If you must though, use NyOil, specially designed for the fine mechanisms.

For removing the dullness of the metal bodies of cameras, use NEVRDULL from your local hardware store. They are cotton swabs/patches with a chemical on them which will restore the metal on your cam. If it gets on the leatherette it will leave a white-ish residue, easily removed with some Windex.

 

[reg]

Never use gasoline, it leaves a residue. Use Ronsonol or Naphta. Also, don't lubricate the shutter mechanism, it is designed to work without oil. If you must though, use NyOil, specially designed for the fine mechanisms.

For removing the dullness of the metal bodies of cameras, use NEVRDULL from your local hardware store. They are cotton swabs/patches with a chemical on them which will restore the metal on your cam. If it gets on the leatherette it will leave a white-ish residue, easily removed with some Windex.

Down to a science!!

 

[Mitica100]

A good resource page on camera repair:

CLICK

 

[RichL]

Tip from the cameraleather site.

Once you have everything clean and set to go brush on a layer of alcohol hand sanitizer, the type without moisturizers (like the original Purell). This will allow you to position the leather exactly where it is needed without having to worry about a 'whoops'. I have used it successfully several times. I let it sit for a day or two before handling it.

There are many different types out there so do test whatever you purchase to make sure it works for you.

 

[Evansshoots]

Not sure where this should go, so I've stuck it in a couple of places...

I have a selection of old M42 lenses that really need cleaning out inside. Most are not valuable, and I know some people dismantle their own lenses for cleaning.
If anyone knows how to dismantle any of these lenses (below) please let me know. Alternatively, if you know of a site that may know, please post a link!
Pentacon 200 mm f4
Pentax Super-Takumar 55mm f1.8
Carl Zeiss Jena Sonnar 135mm f4
ausJena Flektogon 35mm f2.8
Meyer-Optik Orestor 100mm f2.8
Thanks very much!
Dom

I have done some restoring of older cameras before (including my favourite: an Ihagee bellows).

As far as leather camera cases are concerned, I have a few suggestions. A lot of older cameras came supplied with their own purpose-built leather case, which you naturally want to keep and use. Often the stitching has gone. Whilst you can use a thick linen thread through the same holes (always use the old holes if you can), I would reccomend using thick, high-quality elastic thread. This means the case can take far more abusewithout breaking. Also, once you've polished over the whole thing, the thick elasitc looks much like the original thread did.

 

[Agnessa]

good tipps, thanks

 

[deeslexia]

Different colour leather coverings are available from bookbinding companies .

 

[minicoop1985]

I mentioned this in the thread for my Hasselblad 1600f. I'm posting this here in case anyone runs into a Kodak Ektar 80mm f2.8 lens with a sticky focus ring. Fairly easy little restoration, and something I could actually write up.

Basically, there's three little screws in the mounting ring that have to be slightly undone (there is one that sticks out-leave that one be as it's for the mount, not for the retaining ring), then a retaining ring comes out. Before doing that, definitely spin the focus to as close as possible and take note of how far the aperture ring is from the focus ring-that will be important later. After the retaining ring comes out, the glass and aperture unscrew in one piece (it's sealed, so there's ZERO dust in there-MINTY fresh) and the focus ring and mount are left. I took a rag, soaked it in lighter fluid, put out the resulting fire, then cleaned out all the old sludge in the threads on both parts that was, at one point, lubrication, then re-lubricated it with some of my favorite gun lube (Breakfree CLP) and a Q-tip. It's a higher viscosity than most, but it's not grease, and it stood up to guns firing and being absolutely beaten on in all kinds of weather conditions without splattering all over when I had them, so I figured it was the right thing to use. Anyway, I put the focus ring to its closest setting, then repeatedly thread the aperture/glass assembly in (CAREFULLY to avoid stripping) until I got it right. After that, the retaining ring has a finger (for lack of a better word) that has to sit in the glass/aperture assembly to keep it aligned. There are also three little indents in the side of the ring for the screws. The trick is to line the the glass/aperture up, then drop the retaining ring on without pressing it in completely, take a moment to finely align the retaining ring, THEN press it in and screw it in place. After all of that, the focus is incredibly smooth.

 

[dxqcanada]

As I refurb my cameras I have been taking pictures and notes.
Using MS Word 2013 I create PDF docs.

One note that I picked up recently ... if you have any 3.5" floppy disks, rip them apart to get the spring as I can be used to replace those tiny springs in those old shutters and release mechanisms.

 

[dxqcanada]

Tools that I have:

Spanner wrench sets
Rubber lens ring tool set
Lens filter ring vise
Screw drivers ... small slotted
Tweezers 00
Angled tweezers
Retaining ring pliers
Q-tips ... lots of them
Soldering iron
Silver solder
Blower bulb
Spring hook/lifter tool
Various leatherette
Thin felt sheets
Thin foam sheets
Shutter curtain material
Dental chisel
Needle files
Small pliers
Syringes and needles
Dremel
Micro drill bits
Grinding wheel
Thick elastic band
Very sharp knife/blade

Rosonol
Acetone
Ammonia
CLR
Super Lube
Watch oil
Pliobond
J-B weld
Acrylic paint pen
Residual oil remover
Isopropol alcohol

Broken cameras for parts

Tools that I need:

Flexi clamps for those rangefinder windows
Liquid electrical tape for patching holes in bellows/shutters
Lid opener

 

[minicoop1985]

That list is going to become incredibly helpful.

 

[dxqcanada]

I want to start a discussion about seals ... and not the animal type.
Material ... looking at the original material on many cameras it appears to be the open cell type ... but finding it for purchase is not exactly the easiest thing.
Most often I see vendors selling closed cell Neoprene type foam, which I think is too dense.
Any feedback is appreciated.

 

[john.margetts]

Too dense for what? If it still seals, it is fine.

Sent from my 8070 using Tapatalk

 

[espresso2x]

Maybe we want the stuff the does or doesn't have a memory; i've forgotten