NEED HELP ASAP!!!

[aswiftakita]

Well I know the f was a 2.8 because that's what I set it on, lol.... and yes I do have a speedlight but you do NOT want to use any kind of flash at the shows and ring side.That's one thing to that can get you asked to move and or quit using the flash.

huh!!! Very interesting!! lol, only problem is the f is wrong... it was actually at 2.8... could that actually be a "misread" from the camera?

How do you know the aperture was set to f/2.8? The EXIF comes from the image you posted. F/3.2. I and others have read it with our EXIF readers.

There are several noise-removal softwares available, and may be included with an editing program that will do other things as well.

For now, probably the best "fix" would be to add light. Do you have a speedlight?

 

[480sparky]

huh!!! Very interesting!! lol, only problem is the f is wrong... it was actually at 2.8... could that actually be a "misread" from the camera?

Is your lens a variable-maximum aperture?

 

[Tony S]

Well I know the f was a 2.8 because that's what I set it on, lol

Recheck what you are doing. The EXIF info does not lie, even taking the image into DPP it shows that your aperture was 3.2. You might have reset things without realizing it. All that information is available on DPP that you used to process the images.

Photoshop has some good noise reduction built into it depending on which version you use. There are several other noise reduction programs that can be used as plug-ins to software or alone on their own, you need to find one that works well with your post processing style, everyone does things differently. Nik, Noise Ninja, Neat Image, Noiseware, Topaz and several others. A Google search on "noise reduction software" will give you tons of info.

As to always seeming like you need to upgrade something that's a fact of life with digital photo equipment. When you upgraded the lens you were now able to push your camera beyond it's limits. When you upgrade the body you may find that a 200mm f2 might be the better tool for what you are doing than the lens you have now. When you upgrade your software you may need to do the same with your computer as it might go beyond the computer's limits. It's a never ending circle of upgrading. I know, I've been upgrading for a long time now. It gets costly, the other option is putting up with the weaknesses and getting the most of the gear you use now.

 

[480sparky]

If you are 100% sure your lens was set to 2.8, and the camera recorded 3.2, you have an issue with one or the other.

 

[aswiftakita]

my lens is the 70-200 f/2.8 IS USM but when on the camera I can still change the f and go up.

huh!!! Very interesting!! lol, only problem is the f is wrong... it was actually at 2.8... could that actually be a "misread" from the camera?

Is your lens a variable-maximum aperture?

 

[Tony S]

Here's the image that has gone through a simple Neat Image noise reduction with sharpening added at the end of the process.....

 

[aswiftakita]

Well I know the f was a 2.8 because that's what I set it on, lol

Recheck what you are doing. The EXIF info does not lie, even taking the image into DPP it shows that your aperture was 3.2. You might have reset things without realizing it. All that information is available on DPP that you used to process the images.

Photoshop has some good noise reduction built into it depending on which version you use. There are several other noise reduction programs that can be used as plug-ins to software or alone on their own, you need to find one that works well with your post processing style, everyone does things differently. Nik, Noise Ninja, Neat Image, Noiseware, Topaz and several others. A Google search on "noise reduction software" will give you tons of info.

As to always seeming like you need to upgrade something that's a fact of life with digital photo equipment. When you upgraded the lens you were now able to push your camera beyond it's limits. When you upgrade the body you may find that a 200mm f2 might be the better tool for what you are doing than the lens you have now. When you upgrade your software you may need to do the same with your computer as it might go beyond the computer's limits. It's a never ending circle of upgrading. I know, I've been upgrading for a long time now. It gets costly, the other option is putting up with the weaknesses and getting the most of the gear you use now.

Thank you very much.... I do understand what you mean... just wish I could find that happy medium, lol. I'm not saying I didn't change the settings..lol, could have, I just know I originally set it on 2.8 but OH WELL!!! lol.

 

[aswiftakita]

COOL!!! I guess now I would have to see if it would still be as grainy or not when printed.. Def already looks better! What program did you use? "Neat Image"?

 

[Tony S]

Yes, that is the one that works for me and the way I do things. Other people like other programs better.

 

[480sparky]

Thank you very much.... I do understand what you mean... just wish I could find that happy medium, lol. I'm not saying I didn't change the settings..lol, could have, I just know I originally set it on 2.8 but OH WELL!!! lol.

Buttons get pushed, dials get spun, wheels get turned, settings get changed....

 

[Tony S]

Ooohh, could you change your settings to allow editing your images. I almost deleted what I showed you because I saw what your setting was after I did it. Letting folks edit your images is a great learning tool and one of the best ways to show how to do or how something works.

 

[aswiftakita]

How and where do I change that?

 

[480sparky]

How and where do I change that?

Look straight up from this post. Click on Settings, then choose Edit Profile. Scroll down to where you can click on "Allow editing".

 

[aswiftakita]

found it!!

 

[deeky]

Here's my two thoughts:

On the aperture, being a zoom lens, you set the aperture with the lens zoomed all the way out. But the minimum aperture decreases automatically as you zoom in. Set it to Av mode, zoomed out, with maximum aperture. Then zoom in and watch the aperture decrease on the screen. Happens without you even realizing it if you aren't expecting it.

On shooting conditions, here's a trick I learned here that has worked well at my daughter's various programs. Set your mode (aperture or min. shutter) and then set your exposure compensation to -1 or even -2. Shooting RAW, you can then come back later and push your exposure in post. It's not quite the same as getting it right at first, but with a 20D, I run into the same low-light issues you do.