# Macro Flash?



## Hardrock (Aug 17, 2009)

Looking to get a macro flash, has anyone used this one -

http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/produ...C_SFDRL14C_Macro_Ringlight_Flash.html#reviews

 or is there one that you would recommend that is fairly inexpesive?


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## Overread (Aug 17, 2009)

hmm not used the linked one myself and a quick read of the profile on BH seems to indcate that its a single element ringlight - I might be wrong in this so see if you can find a bit more info. Its worth it since ringlights can often give rather flat lighting, especailly if both sides of the ring give the same output - the higher grade ones let you adjust the output of each tube so that you will have some light diffence to your lighting.

Also I would ask if you currently have any flash unit, like a speedlite (you don't mention your camera brand) since one can still get good usable lighting with that and its an accessory which will have a lot of use in other areas of your photography as well, rather than just one limited area


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## Hardrock (Aug 17, 2009)

I have a canon 350d ,100mm macro, and 430ex flash with stofen diffuser. It usually works but sometimes the angle will put a harsh shadow on the subject. I was also looking at the 

Macro & Ringlight Flashes | B&H Photo Video 

but is a lot more than I want to spend.


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## DigitalScape (Aug 17, 2009)

I recommend the Canon MT-24EX Macro Twin Lite Ringlite Flash (Canon | MT-24EX Macro Twin Lite Ringlite Flash | 2357A002 | B&H) with the Stofen diffusers.


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## icassell (Aug 17, 2009)

I made this one for about $25 (plus the flash) and it works great. Frankly, though, I usually just use my 430EX with off-camera cord and a LumiQuest softbox.

DIY ring-flash - a set on Flickr


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## icassell (Aug 17, 2009)

DigitalScape said:


> I recommend the Canon MT-24EX Macro Twin Lite Ringlite Flash (Canon | MT-24EX Macro Twin Lite Ringlite Flash | 2357A002 | B&H) with the Stofen diffusers.



Outstanding unit, but hardly inexpensive!


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## Overread (Aug 17, 2009)

You might consider changing the diffuser - it can make a big difference. I use a lumiquest softbox on my 580EX2 flash and I know DoeNoe also uses a 100mm macro and 430EX flash with the same lumiquest softbox - it makes a big difference over something smaller like the stofen.
This is the softbox
LumiQuest® Photographic Accessories | Softbox

it looks bulky, but it packs down flat and in the field I have not encountered problems using it at all (aside from people pointing and asking what the heck it is)


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## Hardrock (Aug 17, 2009)

Overread said:


> You might consider changing the diffuser - it can make a big difference. I use a lumiquest softbox on my 580EX2 flash and I know DoeNoe also uses a 100mm macro and 430EX flash with the same lumiquest softbox - it makes a big difference over something smaller like the stofen.
> This is the softbox
> LumiQuest® Photographic Accessories | Softbox
> 
> it looks bulky, but it packs down flat and in the field I have not encountered problems using it at all (aside from people pointing and asking what the heck it is)


 
Probally a silly question  but would that help with the shadowing by making the light more flat? Its half the price so it defilitely sounds like an option.


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## Hardrock (Aug 17, 2009)

DigitalScape said:


> I recommend the Canon MT-24EX Macro Twin Lite Ringlite Flash (Canon | MT-24EX Macro Twin Lite Ringlite Flash | 2357A002 | B&H) with the Stofen diffusers.


 

It definitely looks awesome but I would rather spend the money on glass. Thanks anyway.


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## Hardrock (Aug 17, 2009)

icassell said:


> I made this one for about $25 (plus the flash) and it works great. Frankly, though, I usually just use my 430EX with off-camera cord and a LumiQuest softbox.
> 
> DIY ring-flash - a set on Flickr


 

At work and flikr is websensed will look at when I get home. Thanks.


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## Overread (Aug 17, 2009)

In short yes it would - your flash might have to put more power out for each shot even (in some cases) since the softbox will spill and "lose light" but because its coming from a much wider area it has less of a harsh shadowing effect on the subject.


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## Hardrock (Aug 17, 2009)

Overread said:


> In short yes it would - your flash might have to put more power out for each shot even (in some cases) since the softbox will spill and "lose light" but because its coming from a much wider area it has less of a harsh shadowing effect on the subject.


 
I think I will give it a try and it will definitely take up less space.


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## Derrel (Aug 17, 2009)

I too have a small, on-flash softbox like the Lumiquest that overread is suggesting,and it gives beautiful lighting on small close-up subjects. It works well just held in your left hand with the flash on a "smart" pigtailed 1-meter wired remote cord (SC 17 or SC 28 or SC29 in Nikon-speak),and it allows you to simulate natural daylight quite well. An off-camera flash connecting cord is what you need for E-TTL light control with a Canon.

I'm not a big fan of ring light flash; it is directly on the lens axis,and so it tends to be very flat-looking,revealing almost no shape or dimension. It's great for its intended purpose of documenting surgeries and flesh wounds, but quite uninspiring as a flash light source for close-up and macro photography; every shot looks the SAME with a ringlight flash.

A good solution is the Lumiquest mini-softbox on a flash bracket or flash "arm" that will allow you to position the flash up above the lens a little bit, and aimed a bit cross-wise to the lens-to-subject axis, which will give shape and dimension. If you use it held and aimed by an assistant at roughly the maximum length of the cord, the small softbox effectively becomes almost a point source,and it simulates natural SUN-light exceedingly well when used in that way on small flowers. When it is positioned 4 to 18 inches from a subject that is small, it functions as a relatively "large" light source, and thus gives a more softlight look.

The light lost to the softbox is actually a GOOD thing in many cases; many flashes are simply too powerful for really close-in working,and the lost light actually tends to make close-in TTL and i-TTL readings better,at least using the Nikon flash system.


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