# Not too happy with my D7000 Quality... HELP!



## DGFinePhoto (Mar 26, 2012)

I have had my 7k for about a year now and through that time of working with it I know I am nowhere near mastering it and the problem is probably just me. However, my images just do not come out clean and crisp. I have read many threads over this subject and I am thinking the main problem is because I use studio lighting instead of flash. Could this impact my quality as much as it does? Also, I am not using a tripod for my work... I usually shoot handheld for flexibility. Are these key factors in my quality? Here is a screenshot of a comparison I made with a C-5D Mark II and my 7k. Now I know that the nikon is not on the level of the M-II BUT please let me know how I can improve...

Image L:
Focal length- 90
F/8
Exposure time: 1/60
Flash

Image R:
Focal length: 105
F/5.6
Exposure time: 1/15
Studio 

Please HELP. I just want tips to make my quality as close to that of the Mark 5D - improvements in general. 
Thank you.


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## SCraig (Mar 26, 2012)

The image on the right was shot at 105mm and 1/15 second?  That shutter speed is too slow for 105mm even with VR, especially since you are not using a flash.


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## cgipson1 (Mar 26, 2012)

When you say "Studio lighting", do you mean constant lighting.. like incandescent or flourescent? 

My advice.. throw that crap away... and get some real studio lighting.. as in Flashes....

What set of Studio Lighting do you have?


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## Mach0 (Mar 26, 2012)

User error. Make sure you lock focus and using a decent shutter speed. If you are using slower, you risk camera shake. Especially, without flash.


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## WhiskeyTango (Mar 26, 2012)

Given the differences in shutter speed & aperture, I'm guessing the overwhelming majority of light in the first image is strobe.  Despite the 1/60th shutter speed, you're getting a LOT less than 1/60th of a second of light, meaning the first shot will freeze motion a whole lot better than the 2nd.

It'd be a lot more helpful to see a side-by-side comparison with equal shutter speed, aperture, and ISO (and preferably focal length, if you have the lenses for it.)


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## DGFinePhoto (Mar 26, 2012)

Thank you. And thank you for your kindness and not ripping me to shreds.... I have a  kit I bought online from Kaezi.com and it seems to be of fair quality but I really am itching to buy a few Nikon hot-shoes... Is there another (cheaper$) brand you suggest... I have no problem spending the money for a Nikon set but if there is a way I could save some and get the quality that's always a plus!


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## cgipson1 (Mar 26, 2012)

1) you can get a lot more power output from a strobe than a constant light source. (you would need like 50 to 100  bulbs to equal even one small flash.. and then you have to deal with heat)

2) Constant lights sources produce a lot more heat. (even Flourescents make more than strobes do)

3) Constant light sources are really bright and hard on the eyes of a  model. Imagine having to stare into a 1500w light source. You will not  be a happy camper.

You can get good quality, inexpensive studio strobes...  like the Flashpoints from Adorama... and get decent shots for a change


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## cgipson1 (Mar 26, 2012)

If you would prefer speedlites.. get the Yongnuo 560's... cheap, not real powerful, but they do the job. Or the Vivitar 285's! Look at older Nikons like the SB-28...

you can use these with wireless triggers on any camera...


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## gsgary (Mar 26, 2012)

I love it when people blame the camera, it's all down to user error


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## DGFinePhoto (Mar 26, 2012)

Not at all blaming the camera. As stated in my original question "It is probably my fault" ... I am well aware and am not a "Know it all"... Thanks for your input.


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## Mach0 (Mar 26, 2012)

cgipson1 said:
			
		

> If you would prefer speedlites.. get the Yongnuo 560's... cheap, not real powerful, but they do the job. Or the Vivitar 285's! Look at older Nikons like the SB-28...
> 
> you can use these with wireless triggers on any camera...



Good options.
If you want to use cls or high speed sync you will need the newer sb's or even a compatible 3r party flash.


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## gsgary (Mar 26, 2012)

DGFinePhoto said:


> Not at all blaming the camera. As stated in my original question "It is probably my fault" ... I am well aware and am not a "Know it all"... Thanks for your input.



Your biggest problem is shutter speed using 100mm you need at least 1/100


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## KmH (Mar 26, 2012)

As mentioned, the main problem is not the hardware.

It seems you have little, if any, understanding about how the camera or lighting works. That is essential knowledge you simply must have for using the camera effectively. The white balance in the image on the right is also off.

Here is the deal with constant lights - a 500 watt constant light seems really bright to a human, and it's bright to a camera too, *only if* you can set and use a long enough shutter speed. That 500 watt light delivers that 500 watts in one second. If you used a 500W light, at 1/15 your photo only uses 1/15th of the 500 watts to make the exposure, or only 33.33 watts of light (a night light). (It's amazing how often math and mathematical relationships have to be used when doing photography.)

In photography, 1 second is a _*long*_ exposure time. 1/15 of a second is a long time too. Your D7000 has a 1/8000 of a second shutter.

Few people can hand-hold a camera steady at 1/15 for a shutter speed, excpet when ultra wide angle lenses are being used. The basic rule-of-thumb is that the shutter speed needs to be 1/the focal length of your lens. In your example on the right above that would be 1/105 of a second for the *slowest* usable shutter speed that would not record camera shake blur induced by the photographer.

For doing portraits, since the subject can't stay that still either, 1/100 is a kind of defacto minimum usable shutter speed even if you're using a lens with less than 100 mm for a focal length.


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## DGFinePhoto (Mar 26, 2012)

Thank you all for your valuable information. I will put them to use. Also, I will be switching to Speedlights and putting my constant lights on the backburner. I am really leaning toward ordering (2) Nikon SB-28 for now and then eventualy upgrading. My reason for this is that I have been saving $$ to purchase new glass. 
I have my original VR "Kit lens" (18mm-105mm) that came with my D7k & an older-class Nikkor Telephoto Zoom (75mm-240mm). I want to shoot mainly fashion as that is my passion, do you all have any lenses you would recommend for that type of work?

I do admit that I have a bit to learn. However, I am eager and willing to take the plunge. I live in an area where there is not many resources or an option for a mentorship so the Internet and books at Barnes & Noble have been my guides.   I confess that I have not had much time to really devote to my camera and that is the reason for my lack of knowledge. 

Thanks again for all of your support.


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## cgipson1 (Mar 26, 2012)

Any decent lens that will shoot portraits... good primes like 50mm 1.4 or 85mm 1.4 / 1.8 to zooms like the 24-70 2.8s and 70-200 2.8s.

Depends on what you want, how much room you have to shoot, budget, and what you are shooting (both subject, and camera body). 

An 85mm will be LONG on a DX body... so probably not good indoors, unless you have LOTs of room. Sigma 50mm 1.4 is highly recommended. 

If you want seriously good zooms.. the two I mentioned rock...

for Fashion.. lighting is as important, or even more important.. than the lens / body.


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## Mach0 (Mar 26, 2012)

The sb28's are good. Another option is the flashpoint 320m ii. Can't go wrong at 100 bucks. I would get one of these before a flash. I have flashes and love them but for choices in modifiers, mono lights have the advantage. It will cost you the same as the sb28 but you will lack mobility. If studio type fashion use is your concern, you'd might see more use out of one. Especially, with the modeling light showing you where the light falls and the wider area of coverage. Add to quicker recycle time and no need for batteries. Everyone  has their opinions and that's just mine. Outdoors? Travel light? Can't beat a speedlight.


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## DGFinePhoto (Mar 26, 2012)

@cgipson1: Thank you for all of your help. I went ahead and did some research on the Nikon SB-28 you recommended and I have ordered (1) for now. I have another flash unit from an older Olympus I have and will use the two and see the results I get. I will post on here sometime next week the shots. I have also ordered a Wireless Remote system as well. I am excited to see the differences. I have been wanting to "go flash" for awhile now so your suggestions were just enough to push me over the edge and pull the trigger. Thanks again.


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## Mach0 (Mar 26, 2012)

DGFinePhoto said:
			
		

> @cgipson1: Thank you for all of your help. I went ahead and did some research on the Nikon SB-28 you recommended and I have ordered (1) for now. I have another flash unit from an older Olympus I have and will use the two and see the results I get. I will post on here sometime next week the shots. I have also ordered a Wireless Remote system as well. I am excited to see the differences. I have been wanting to "go flash" for awhile now so your suggestions were just enough to push me over the edge and pull the trigger. Thanks again.



Just keep in mind the sb28 is a non ittl flash. That means you will control the settings on the flash. Take a look at the mono light. You can't beat the power dollar for dollar.


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## ClickandDestroy (Mar 27, 2012)

Just keep your shutter speed up and you'll notice a huge difference. Also use continuous focus as a person moves around. If you're in single focus your point locks on and of that person moves even a millimeter it can throw off your entire image. Especially when shooting at a wide aperture like 2.8 or 1.8


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## czach2012 (Jul 3, 2012)

This is really a dumb problem... Hello your shutter speed is wayyyyyy to slow try 1/250


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## Bynx (Jul 3, 2012)

Since I too have a D7000, I had to read through this to find out what might happen to my camera that would make me not pleased with it. Well its a bit of a deceptive heading. Nothing wrong with the camera, you just have to learn the principles of photography and learn your camera. You have had it a year, and admit not using it much. You say you shoot hand held because of flexibility. I thought this was your choice from experience, not from ignorance. When you learn the principles of light, aperture and shutter speed then you might understand the benefits of shooting with a tripod vs. shooting hand held. The example on the right above looks like you shot a tv screen. Ive never seen an image that bad come out of a D7000 before. All is not lost. You have a great camera, all you have to do is learn to use it.


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## KmH (Jul 3, 2012)

You're about 3 months late, but thanks for digging up the dead thread.

How did you decide to recommend 1/250? Why not 1/125? 1/125 is fast enough for using a 90 mm focal length. 

What if the OP wanted the ambient light more closely balanced with the strobed light exposure?

1/60 to 1/250 is 2 stops. So in the first example above: f/8, 1/60, and flash - the f/8 would have to be f/4, and the flash power output would have to be turned down.​


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## rokvi (Jul 3, 2012)

KmH said:


> You're about 3 months late, but thanks for digging up the dead thread.
> 
> How did you decide to recommend 1/250? Why not 1/125? 1/125 is fast enough for using a 90 mm focal length.
> 
> ...



Some know a little, some know alot.


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## Bynx (Jul 3, 2012)

There is something wrong with the site at the moment and we can only see recent posts. The home page is missing.


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