# New camera suggestions?



## adrift79 (May 13, 2022)

Hey guys, I've recently been getting into automotive photography and I'm looking for a camera to begin the journey. I have a budget of about £350 (don't know what that is in dollars, apologies) and it should be a begginers camera, but not anything with low specs. 2-25 megapixels (keep in mind this will be used to photograph moving cars at speed). Live view is important for me and it can preferrebly be canon, though any other camera brands recommendations are accepted 😊
Drop any suggestions below

Thanks!


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## ac12 (May 20, 2022)

MORE details are needed.

Does your £350 budget include the lens, or just the camera body?
- You are going to have to go with used gear, to meet your budget.
- as of tonight, £350 GBP = $437 USD
What kind of auto event are you shooting at?
- What distance from you to the cars?  
- And at what angle is the car moving, relative to you?
- How FAST is the car moving?
WHY is live view important to you?


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## zombiesniper (May 21, 2022)

I have seen your first set of photographs that you posted here and the basics of taking a good car photo you have down pretty good.

Now having said that, we all have more to learn and want to take "better" photos. Sometimes however we like to think the gear is the limiting factor when it really isn't. Just want to make sure you're not in this predicament right now.

Your images with the 350D are coming out quite good. Yes it's not a megapixel monster but it is still a good camera to learn on.

What new camera/lens to get?
This is the basic question but it's not quite as simple as it seems.
Most people purchase with their feelings and not with their head. They try and fulfil the want and not the need. This either leads to over spending or feeling like a compromise was purchased and never being totally satisfied.

So I challenge you to sit, think and list the following.

*Are you feeling that the camera is limiting your ability to take the images you want?*

 - This is not an easy yes or no. You have to honestly think about if you had X camera, how would your images really change? I did this exercise when I bought my last camera. For me it was simply I needed more frames/second and quicker focusing. Nothing else with the camera specs or features changed my photography one bit. Fact is I still have my old Canon XS, very similar to your 350D and it's still able to do 90% of what my current camera can do.

- If you really can't find anything that would really improve your photography then I would say hold off for a bit until you hit that moment when you're shooting and find a spec, feature that isn't performing as well and limiting you.
 - If so. What camera functions are limiting you? i.e. shutter speed, ISO, auto focus, newer feature more modern cameras have?


*What are the MUST HAVEs in the new camera?*
 - Specs, lens mount, software feature? What are the absolute minimum things that the camera MUST have, no place for wants here.

*What are the NICE TO HAVEs in the new camera?*
 - Now you can list off the wants.

*The budget.*
 - Whenever I hear/read "My budget is $XX." To me it's a compromise. I know not everyone is going to spend $20k on gear however saving up and spending that extra $1000 instead of compromising on the "next step" is always cheaper in the long run.
 - Do up at least two budgets. One that you could obtain right now and one that you could obtain in 6 months - 1 year.

*The camera.*
 - Here comes the fun! It's time to look at cameras. Now is the time you can also seek advice from others since you will be able to provide guidance on the type of camera you are looking for. Price, specs, features etc. Unfortunately you still don't get to shop with your feels. Use your head and search for at least three options that meet all of your needs list. Two in your now budget and one in your 6 month - 1 year budget. At least one (if not more) of these cameras will check off most of your want list as well. 
 - It is well advised that once you have your three possibles selected to try to get them in hand. This for some people is a large deciding factor. For me if it doesn't feel right in the hand, I have wasted my money 'cause I simply won't use it.

*The choice.*
 - If you have gone through the above steps you will have arrived at the most a couple of options. If they all meet the needs and some wants.....now is the time you can use your feelings (_only now though, never anywhere else in life_) and choose the one that you like the most.
 - You may even find this process will have you arrive at a single camera as it did for me.
 - Going through a critical analysis of what you need will land you at the right camera for you. It will also lessen the chance that you buy on an impulse and have buyers remorse or find that you only need to upgrade again in a few years.


Hope this helps.


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## ac12 (May 21, 2022)

I found your Feb post with the car pics.
- So cars driving on the street, not racing on a track.
- Looks like you are no more than 50 feet (15 meters) away, often closer.
- You have a Canon 350d, with I think the 18-55 lens.

IMHO, that camera is GOOD ENOUGH for what you are asking for.  You do NOT need a different camera.
You could get a $2,000 Canon 90D and have the same problems.

IMHO, what you need is knowledge, not a new camera.
You need to learn how to get the most out of your camera.
You need to learn exposure and how to deal with moving subjects.
Some of this is not quick and easy, you will have to study the manuals, work at it and practice.
It is easier done when you have someone to walk the streets with you and teach you. 

I have a similar problem with high school students and sports photography.
There is no "easy button,"  that will work for ALL sports.
Different sports and locations require different methods to take pictures.
They have to learn what to do, or they will run into avoidable problems.

Do you understand how aperture, shutter speed and ISO affects exposure?
If not, I suggest you get a book on exposure and study that.  Then go out and practice.
You will need to understand all three items to adjust the camera to get your pictures.

SIMPLIFY the problem.
First.  Can you reliably take a properly exposed, focused and not blurred picture of a PARKED car?
-  This eliminates the added problem of car movement.
-  If you cannot do this reliably, you will NOT get a sharp moving car.
-  Can you hand hold the camera steady at the shutter speed you are shooting?  If not, you need to use a FASTER shutter speed.
-  -  With your 18-55, and a stationary subject, your minimum shutter speed should be 1/100 sec.  preferably faster.
-  -  Exposure.  By fixing a floor to the shutter speed, you may have to adjust the aperture and/or ISO to compensate.

Once you can reliably get properly exposed, focused and sharp (not blurred) pictures of a PARKED car.  Then you can move on.

Second. You need to learn how to freeze motion.
-  You need to learn this, because the cars driving on the road are moving.
-  I think some of your pictures are blurry because you do not know how to freeze motion.

Learn to walk, before you try to run.
Until you can reliably do the above, do NOT do anything fancy, like shallow depth of field, or panning.


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## ac12 (May 21, 2022)

I found your January post, and the cars are sharper than your Feb post.

From the Jan to Feb postings, something changed, but what?

Your job is to sit down and figure out WHY the difference.
- Is it the location, did you change a camera setting, ????

When you go out and shoot, take NOTES.
- where you shot, the weather (sunny, cloudy, rainy, cold, etc.), lighting condition (sunny, in the shade, etc.), camera and lens setting, specifics of the subject, etc.
- if you are experimenting with a change, DOCUMENT the change, before and after, so you know what you did.  And what pictures were shot with the changed settings.
- - Tip:  If you make a change, write it down on a card, then take a picture of that card.  That way you know what you did, for those pictures. 
     When you make another change, write that change on a card, and take a picture of that card.
That way, when you are trying to figure out a problem, you have something to help you figure it out.


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## adrift79 (May 22, 2022)

ac12 said:


> MORE details are needed.
> 
> Does your £350 budget include the lens, or just the camera body?
> - You are going to have to go with used gear, to meet your budget.
> ...


Hi, mate. I’ve seen your other posts about how my camera is fine as to what I’m doing and I think I agree. I’m going to be spending a lot of time transitioning to manual with the camera I have now following your advice. Thanks so much, I think this will really help!


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## adrift79 (May 22, 2022)

zombiesniper said:


> I have seen your first set of photographs that you posted here and the basics of taking a good car photo you have down pretty good.
> 
> Now having said that, we all have more to learn and want to take "better" photos. Sometimes however we like to think the gear is the limiting factor when it really isn't. Just want to make sure you're not in this predicament right now.
> 
> ...


Hey, thanks for the reply. I think I agree with you and I’m going to start using the equipment I have. I really don’t think I need to spend money when I already have a great enough camera. Once again, thanks so much


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## zombiesniper (May 22, 2022)

I think you've made a great decision.

Keep working the gear you have. You're off to a great start. You'll always have the chance to upgrade later.


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## ac12 (May 22, 2022)

adrift79 said:


> Hi, mate. I’ve seen your other posts about how my camera is fine as to what I’m doing and I think I agree. I’m going to be spending a lot of time transitioning to manual with the camera I have now following your advice. Thanks so much, I think this will really help!



You do not have to go full manual.
You have tools in your camera that you should learn to use.

One of the things to learn is, the exposure modes.
When and how to use Tv shutter priority, Av aperture priority, P program, and M manual.
Each mode has its purpose.  And why and when you would use one over the other.

Example, I was shooting a dive meet.  One of the students was shooting.
His camera was set to "Auto."
When I looked through the viewfinder to see what the camera was doing . . . PROBLEM.   
The shutter speed was 1/320 sec.  That is TOO SLOW for diving.  1st problem, he did not recognize that problem.
2nd problem he did not know what to do.
I switched the camera to Tv, shutter priority, to be able to set the shutter speed up at 1/1200 sec.

You have to recognize when your camera is using an inappropriate exposure.  But to do that, you have to know what a correct exposure should be for your situation; shutter speed and/or aperture.  You need a higher shutter speed for a moving car, than a parked car.
Then you have to use a different exposure mode.  But you have to know which mode to use, and how to set the shutter speed/aperture or both.

I use all four modes.  Which one I use will depend on the situation of the shoot (subject and lighting).  
And sometimes it will change as the day goes on, as the lighting changes.

Example, When I shoot soccer,
During the day, I may use Tv, shutter priority.
As the sun is going down, I may switch to Av, aperture priority, to deal with the gradually decreasing light.
And at night, under lights, I may switch to M. manual.

And you also have to understand how and when to change the ISO level.
If your shutter speed is not high enough, raise the ISO level and/or open the aperture.

Gud Luk


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## mjcmt (May 22, 2022)

adrift79 said:


> Hey guys, I've recently been getting into automotive photography and I'm looking for a camera to begin the journey. I have a budget of about £350 (don't know what that is in dollars, apologies) and it should be a begginers camera, but not anything with low specs. 2-25 megapixels (keep in mind this will be used to photograph moving cars at speed). Live view is important for me and it can preferrebly be canon, though any other camera brands recommendations are accepted 😊
> Drop any suggestions below
> 
> Thanks!


Canon OS Rebel T7 EF-S 18-55mm IS II Kit​








						EOS Rebel T7 EF-S 18–55mm f/3.5–5.6 IS II
					

24.1 Megapixel CMOS (APS-C) Sensor with ISO 100-6400 (H: 12800).Built-in Wi-Fi* and NFC** Technology.9-point AF System and AI Servo AF.Optical Viewfinder with Approx. 95% Viewing Coverage.3.0-inch LCD with 920,000 Dots.Scene Intelligent Auto Mode.




					www.usa.canon.com
				




The main problem is you will not have a long telephoto lens which you probably will need to photograph at a track. This will get you started in your budget and you can purchase long lenses used.


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## zombiesniper (May 22, 2022)

mjcmt said:


> Canon OS Rebel T7 EF-S 18-55mm IS II Kit​
> 
> 
> 
> ...


He's not currently doing track based photography. Please don't give advice if you haven't taken the time to understand what the user is trying to accomplish.


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## mjcmt (May 22, 2022)

zombiesniper said:


> He's not currently doing track based photography. Please don't give advice if you haven't taken the time to understand what the user is trying to accomplish.


He does not say that. The camera in his price answers his question.


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## zombiesniper (May 22, 2022)

Your are correct he doesn't say that.
But just giving a camera to fulfil the budget doesn't solve anything. Knowing what a person needs is required in order to help. It takes more than just giving the google answer. He could have (and probable did) himself.


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## ac12 (May 22, 2022)

mjcmt said:


> He does not say that. The camera in his price answers his question.




You answered his question, but did not solve the problem.
His original post above is lacking critical relevant details to give a proper answer.

He does not mention shooting at a track, YOU did.  
Although "moving cars at speed" may imply shooting at a track of some sort (oval, F1, rally or drag strip).
Based on his other posts, he is shooting cars *on the city street,* not a track.  

You have to find and look at his other posts (linked below), which have pictures of what he is shooting, and mentions the camera that he is using.  It is only by looking at the prior posts that you can start to get a handle on the situation.  I say situation, because there is still not enough information for me to determine the problem.   Only what I suspect could be a problem.

Jan 2022





						New to car photography- looking for feedback
					

Hi! I’m new to this website so im not really used to the controls. Im only 14 and really starting to get into photography, especially car photography. I took the following photos yesterday and I really want to improve, achieving the professional feel on a photo. Im now here, asking for feedback...



					www.thephotoforum.com
				




Feb 2022





						Went to Alderley Edge again!
					

Hi, I’m 14 years old and I’ve only recently started to get into photography, especially car photography. I posted another post a few weeks ago and I received a lot of feedback. I tried my best to use that as an influence on yesterday’s visit to Alderley Edge (a really posh and rich place). If...



					www.thephotoforum.com


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## K9Kirk (Jun 29, 2022)

Not looking for a reply, this is more for anyone in the future that looks at this thread. I'm not suggesting that anyone buy this camera, I only mention it to make a point. My beginner camera was a Canon T6, it's quite cheap now, and I progressed to a Canon 80D. Used that for a couple years but an accident ruined the whole camera and forced me to go back to using my T6. I have to say, it's a bit outdated now but coupled with my Tamron 150-600, contemporary lens, it takes some very nice pics and it's only 18 MP. It should be said that experience in shooting/editing can make up for lack of quality in equipment because I'm producing better pics now than when I was using my 80D. In short, a real good camera and lens is no guarantee you're going to take good pictures. A lot really does fall on the op. Just something to consider perhaps when purchasing a camera.


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