# Manual Mode Vs Aperture priority mode Please Help!!!



## JRE313

When Setting the Aperture, i hear that alot of photographers use Aperture Priority over manual.
I took Trey's Stuck in Customs class and he said in one of his videos that he uses Aperture Priority over manual.

Anybody know why this is?

Thanks in advance!!!


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## jwbryson1

Umm.....have you read your post?  I have no clue what you are asking.


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## Big Mike

Depends on the situation.  

If I'm in a situation where the lighting conditions might change from shot to shot, and I don't have a lot of time to be adjusting my settings in manual...then I'll use Av.  
But most other times, I'll use manual.

There is a big difference is the way that you meter & come to your settings.  In Av (or any auto mode) the camera gets it's exposure settings from what is in front of the lens.  So if your subject changes from dark to light, you need to really adjust your metering.  Where as, in manual, you meter for the light and as long as your light doesn't change, you don't have to change the exposure if your subjects brightness changes.


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## Overread

First understand what Aperture priority is doing. 

In aperture priority mode the photographer sets the aperture and the ISO for the photo. You then take a meter reading using the built in camera meter (using the metering settings selected by the user) and based upon that meter reading on the chosen scene the camera will automatically select the correct shutter speed. If the lighting changes (whilst the camera is still metering - ie shutter button held half down) or the user changes the aperture and/or the ISO the camera will instantly change the shutter speed to compensate.
You also have exposure compensation in this mode, which tells the camera that when it sets the shutter speed it should either under or overexpose the photo by the selected number of stops of light. This can be good when the camera meter is being fooled by the current lighting (eg if shooting scene with lots of snow the camera will expose it grey rather than white since 18% grey is the target the camera works to - so a photographer can tell the camera to overexpose and thus bring the exposure back up to what the photographer wants).



In full manual mode the photographer must set all 3 settings themselves - that is aperture, shutter speed and ISO. There is no exposure compensation here, since if the photographer wishes to adjust the exposure from the suggested metered value then they just have to change the settings themselves. There is a meter reading in this mode which, instead of being a target is showing what the actual current lighting is giving (whilst the camera is metering the scene).


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## mistermonday

JRE313 said:


> When Setting the Aperture, i hear that alot of photographers use Aperture Priority over manual.
> I took Trey's Stuck in Customs class and he said in one of his videos that he uses Aperture Priority over manual.
> 
> Anybody know why this is?
> 
> Thanks in advance!!!



There really is no need to go manual if you have the automation in your camera. There are so many metering options and intelligence in the camera that you should be able to set your aperture and let the camera control the exposure times. Moreover, if you have a decent number of exposures possible in your cameras auto bracketing, and you have sufficient padding in the number of shots you take in the bracketed set, you do not need to have perfect precision in each shot. 
Regards, Murray


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## 480sparky

mistermonday said:


> There really is no need to go manual if you have the automation in your camera. There are so many metering options and intelligence in the camera that you should be able to set your aperture and let the camera control the exposure times. .........



To me, auto modes are the biggest and most abused crutches in photography.  If you learn how to shoot in manual from the git-go, you're a million times more likely to succeed with auto modes.  But alas, manufacturers have brainwashed most everyone into thinking the camera can think better than a human brain can.

The mere fact the OP is asking this question is proof of this.


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## Overread

Sparky careful - Aperture and shutter priority modes are not full auto and much of the time one is working without flash dominated lighting those two modes are simply repeating and partly automating what photographers do in manual mode. That is set their primary setting for the creative effect they want - check their secondary setting and then adjust ISO accordingly. The only difference being the camera changes the 3rd value for them. 

The full auto mode and the scene modes on lower end bodies (eg landscape, macro, portrait etc...) I agree are modes one should try and move away from. They are not "bad" in that they generally do get a good exposure, but they will not be anywhere near as creative not diverse as a photographer can be even with little training and experience.


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## cgipson1

mistermonday said:


> There really is no need to go manual if you have the automation in your camera. There are so many metering options and intelligence in the camera that you should be able to set your aperture and let the camera control the exposure times. Moreover, if you have a decent number of exposures possible in your cameras auto bracketing, and you have sufficient padding in the number of shots you take in the bracketed set, you do not need to have perfect precision in each shot.
> Regards, Murray



So just shoot a lot.. bracket like crazy... pad that a little, and maybe you will get Lucky?  lol! Yea.. sure! You will occasionally get a decent shot... but did you do it intentionally? Not really!  Why not just use THE "P" MODE... if the camera is so smart?


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## mistermonday

480sparky said:


> mistermonday said:
> 
> 
> 
> There really is no need to go manual if you have the automation in your camera. There are so many metering options and intelligence in the camera that you should be able to set your aperture and let the camera control the exposure times. .........
> 
> 
> 
> 
> To me, auto modes are the biggest and most abused crutches in photography.  If you learn how to shoot in manual from the git-go, you're a million times more likely to succeed with auto modes.  But alas, manufacturers have brainwashed most everyone into thinking the camera can think better than a human brain can.
> 
> The mere fact the OP is asking this question is proof of this.
Click to expand...


Well, I grew up and got my 1st 2 cameras before they had auto anything so I know what you mean. I also grew up learning how to do math many years before the calculator was commercially affordable. I came across a young person a while ago who needed a calculator to figure out what to me was a minor mental math activity. He claimed he did not understand how to do math but that did not matter because calculators were everywhere - in his iPhone, iPad, Computer, his desktop, his backpack, even in one of his Casio wristwatches. I felt like offering a similar dissertation to yours. But then I thought about it for a moment and realized that maybe he could get through life without ever needing to have a basic foundation of fundamental math - that perhaps he would always have access to a calculator and never be marooned on a desert island. I considered myself fortunate and advantaged to have had the learning just as I have in basic photography but I applied a "live and let live"  philosophy. Good luck trying to fight the brainwashing, its a losing battle.
Regards, Murray


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## ann

I don't know if i really know why, even with manual metering (which i use, as it is how I learned) one has to pick a value and then adjusted accordingly. Perhaps because with HDR one picks the fstop to maintain DOF, so it seems logically to them to just set the camera to aperture priority mode.


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## 480sparky

Overread said:


> Sparky careful - Aperture and shutter priority modes are not full auto and much of the time one is working without flash dominated lighting those two modes are simply repeating and partly automating what photographers do in manual mode. That is set their primary setting for the creative effect they want - check their secondary setting and then adjust ISO accordingly. The only difference being the camera changes the 3rd value for them.
> 
> The full auto mode and the scene modes on lower end bodies (eg landscape, macro, portrait etc...) I agree are modes one should try and move away from. They are not "bad" in that they generally do get a good exposure, but they will not be anywhere near as creative not diverse as a photographer can be even with little training and experience.



I'm not advocating outlawing any auto or semi-auto modes.  You gotta learn the basics if you want to learn.  You can't learn to tickle the ivories by cranking up a player piano.  I think 99.9% of aspiring shooters would be far better served by starting out in manual only.  Manual everything...... ISO, shutter speed, aperture and white balance. This teaches you how to work the camera, not let the camera do the work.

Once you've got a solid grasp on those basics, slowly work your way towards that magical Auto mode.  But only in steps.  After manual mode, let the camera start to take over.  Aperture- and Shutter-preferred.  Then Program mode.  You are only allowed to use Auto once you graduate.

Auto is fine for MWACs and little kids.  But if you wanna get serious, start at the _real_ basics.... *M*anual.


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## 480sparky

mistermonday said:


> Well, I grew up and got my 1st 2 cameras before they had auto anything so I know what you mean. I also grew up learning how to do math many years before the calculator was commercially affordable. I came across a young person a while ago who needed a calculator to figure out what to me was a minor mental math activity. He claimed he did not understand how to do math but that did not matter because calculators were everywhere - in his iPhone, iPad, Computer, his desktop, his backpack, even in one of his Casio wristwatches. I felt like offering a similar dissertation to yours. But then I thought about it for a moment and realized that maybe he could get through life without ever needing to have a basic foundation of fundamental math - that perhaps he would always have access to a calculator and never be marooned on a desert island. I considered myself fortunate and advantaged to have had the learning just as I have in basic photography but I applied a "live and let live"  philosophy. Good luck trying to fight the brainwashing, its a losing battle.
> Regards, Murray



Too bad these kids can't even make change at Mickey D's even when the register shows it to them.  I can calculate the change I have coming as soon as I see the total.  Even if my bill is $5.37 and I hand over $10.02.

We're dinosaurs, Murray.  It's only a matter of time before the meteor strikes.


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## EIngerson

Pretty hot topic here. Some would say use AV/TV most of the time and using manual just means you want to turn knobs and click buttons. Others say use manual or you are not really a photographer. Whatever......I use all of them because thay all have their purpose in photography. Find the one that suits you and use it.


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## Big Mike

Is the OP even asking about this in regards to HDR?  Or was this simply posted in the wrong section?


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## JRE313

HDR


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## unpopular

JRE313 said:


> Anybody know why this is?



Because Trey Ratcliff is a douche.

He's got a some decent images, don't get me wrong, and a strong sense of composition. But his portfolio is loudmouthed, self-absorbed and obnoxious. He doesn't use his meter; he's a ± clicker - thus the reason why he needs to use NR and his best images may not even need to be HDR in the first place.


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## EchoingWhisper

Overread said:


> First understand what Aperture priority is doing.
> 
> In aperture priority mode the photographer sets the aperture and the ISO for the photo. You then take a meter reading using the built in camera meter (using the metering settings selected by the user) and based upon that meter reading on the chosen scene the camera will automatically select the correct shutter speed. If the lighting changes (whilst the camera is still metering - ie shutter button held half down) or the user changes the aperture and/or the ISO the camera will instantly change the shutter speed to compensate.
> You also have exposure compensation in this mode, which tells the camera that when it sets the shutter speed it should either under or overexpose the photo by the selected number of stops of light. This can be good when the camera meter is being fooled by the current lighting (eg if shooting scene with lots of snow the camera will expose it grey rather than white since 18% grey is the target the camera works to - so a photographer can tell the camera to overexpose and thus bring the exposure back up to what the photographer wants).
> 
> 
> 
> In full manual mode the photographer must set all 3 settings themselves - that is aperture, shutter speed and ISO. There is no exposure compensation here, since if the photographer wishes to adjust the exposure from the suggested metered value then they just have to change the settings themselves. There is a meter reading in this mode which, instead of being a target is showing what the actual current lighting is giving (whilst the camera is metering the scene).



There is exposure compensation, assuming you use auto ISO.


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## unpopular

^^ can't you set EC to be Av or Tv prioritized? I always assumed that is how it worked depending on the AE mode.


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## ph0enix

What does this have to do with HDR?


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## vipgraphx

C





unpopular said:


> JRE313 said:
> 
> 
> 
> Anybody know why this is?
> 
> 
> 
> Because Trey Ratcliff is a douche.He's got a some decent images, don't get me wrong, and a strong sense of composition. But his portfolio is loudmouthed, self-absorbed and obnoxious. He doesn't use his meter; he's a ± clicker - thus the reason why he needs to use NR and his best images may not even need to be HDR in the first place.
Click to expand...

I find this answer very funny. You may think he is a douche but that douche is well respected and makes a very good living doing what he does best.He has found away to disregard curtain "rules of photography" and the elitist such as yourself just act like haters.I would love to see your portfolio compared to his. Professional and enthusiasts know is name and consider him a professional photographer do they know yours and associate your name with the same respect or are you just known on this forum for your obnoxious comments?


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## Rephargotohp

The reason Trey uses Aperture Priority and I advocate it also, Is because we Do Auto Exposure Bracketing for HDR. 3 Images 2 Stops apart. A critical part of it though is correctly getting your 0 image point. You can do that either by Locking your exposure with your Exposure lock button or using Exposure compensation along with auto exposure Bracketing


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## unpopular

vipgraphx said:


> C
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> unpopular said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> JRE313 said:
> 
> 
> 
> Anybody know why this is?
> 
> 
> 
> Because Trey Ratcliff is a douche.He's got a some decent images, don't get me wrong, and a strong sense of composition. But his portfolio is loudmouthed, self-absorbed and obnoxious. He doesn't use his meter; he's a ± clicker - thus the reason why he needs to use NR and his best images may not even need to be HDR in the first place.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> I find this answer very funny. You may think he is a douche but that douche is well respected and makes a very good living doing what he does best.He has found away to disregard curtain "rules of photography" and the elitist such as yourself just act like haters.I would love to see your portfolio compared to his. Professional and enthusiasts know is name and consider him a professional photographer do they know yours and associate your name with the same respect or are you just known on this forum for your obnoxious comments?
Click to expand...


awww! I'm not on your ignore list after all!

I couldn't care less about how he's a professional or how many fancy snappers out there respect him or how many "rules" he's broken; he's a fancy snapper. that's all. it's all about getting people to oogle him and his 'mad skillz'. His tutorial is a bunch of crap, just ±2 garbage. If that doesn't work, aww, just step it up a notch to ±3. If there wasn't enough dynamic range there, meh, that's what NR is for, right? If you can't figure out what was in his tutorial by yourself, then maybe you should actually _learn_ _photography_.

You're more than welcome to look at my portfolio. I know you won't like it because subtly isn't in your vocabulary.

Flickr: ion_nine's Photostream

Specific Projects and Themes:

Complex Forms in Nature - a set on Flickr
Context and Relationship - a set on Flickr
Minimum Focus  - a set on Flickr
Architecture and Details - a set on Flickr
Landscape and Nature - a set on Flickr
Abstracts - a set on Flickr


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## unpopular

And no. I will never have the respect that your Ratcliff has because I'm not interested in that sort of thing.


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## Bynx

unpopular said:


> And no. I will never have the respect that your Ratcliff has because I'm not interested in that sort of thing.



And dont forget that people arent interested in you or respect you.


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## unpopular

Kinda missed the point, didn't you. 

Go learn how to use your meter Bynx.


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## o hey tyler

unpopular said:


> vipgraphx said:
> 
> 
> 
> C
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> unpopular said:
> 
> 
> 
> Because Trey Ratcliff is a douche.He's got a some decent images, don't get me wrong, and a strong sense of composition. But his portfolio is loudmouthed, self-absorbed and obnoxious. He doesn't use his meter; he's a ± clicker - thus the reason why he needs to use NR and his best images may not even need to be HDR in the first place.
> 
> 
> 
> I find this answer very funny. You may think he is a douche but that douche is well respected and makes a very good living doing what he does best.He has found away to disregard curtain "rules of photography" and the elitist such as yourself just act like haters.I would love to see your portfolio compared to his. Professional and enthusiasts know is name and consider him a professional photographer do they know yours and associate your name with the same respect or are you just known on this forum for your obnoxious comments?
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> 
> awww! I'm not on your ignore list after all!
> 
> I couldn't care less about how he's a professional or how many fancy snappers out there respect him or how many "rules" he's broken; he's a fancy snapper. that's all. it's all about getting people to oogle him and his 'mad skillz'. His tutorial is a bunch of crap, just ±2 garbage. If that doesn't work, aww, just step it up a notch to ±3. If there wasn't enough dynamic range there, meh, that's what NR is for, right? If you can't figure out what was in his tutorial by yourself, then maybe you should actually _learn_ _photography_.
> 
> You're more than welcome to look at my portfolio. I know you won't like it because subtly isn't in your vocabulary.
> 
> Flickr: ion_nine's Photostream
> 
> Specific Projects and Themes:
> 
> Complex Forms in Nature - a set on Flickr
> Context and Relationship - a set on Flickr
> Minimum Focus  - a set on Flickr
> Architecture and Details - a set on Flickr
> Landscape and Nature - a set on Flickr
> Abstracts - a set on Flickr
Click to expand...


Expect VipGrafx to come back with a poorly composed response telling you how bad your images are, and how much better his are than yours.


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## Overread

Guys stop the silly infighting and remain on topic. Also respect the fact that different photographers work with different methods and that many (who might or might not be very good) who are set in their ways might well advocate methods of learning and working which "skip steps" or "break the rules". It's my view that following these guidelines for a learner is bad advise because its not reinforcing them with the basic underlying rules. You've got to learn the rules and the basics before you can break them; otherwise you are just breaking the same rules as someone else and thus significantly limiting your understanding and diversity of options. 

Once you've learnt those basic underlying factors you can then start to emulate others work process or even develop your own based on how you like to shoot and what result you like to get



EchoingWhisper said:


> There is exposure compensation, assuming you use auto ISO.



Ahh I totally forgot that! In Canon cameras there isn't any exposure compensation in the manual mode at all. If you want to under or over expose you just set the settings so that the meter needle shows the desired exposure change. However Nikon cameras do allow exposure compensation in manual mode. In their case they are able to bias the meter scale, so that the middle point no longer represents 0 but either a + or - number (ie over or under exposure).


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## Rephargotohp

To further understand why Aperture priority "Can" be helpful in HDR when bracketing images is one of Image Registration or alignment of the 3 or more images. This becomes a critical part of getting a good clear final image. Photmatix does a great job of aligning your exposures , the other manufacturers struggle with this. But the more you can do to help this the better off you will be. 
So this is why doing your setting manually, even though you are on a tripod can cause some movement between frames. If you are careful it won't but it can happen. But if you use Aperture priority and AEB ( automatic Exposure Bracketing) with either a remote or using your timer, it can help keep each frame registered correctly

You of course DON'T have to do it that way, but it is a reason why

And it also keeps people from mistakenly changing Aperture betwween frames instead of shutter speed which causes even worse problems


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## ann

And it has only been recently that Nikon has let one do  EC in manual mode.


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## Rephargotohp

Just to be clear about one thing though and I only know Canon's do this  For sure( Nikon DSLR's probably do too). AEB also function in Manual mode. Which can be very helpful when your framing may not be where you need to meter. A lot of P & S's do not offer this function in Manual mode only in Aperture priority


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## vipgraphx

You know what I get tired of a$$wholes who think that they are superior to everyone else. Why can't people just respect the talents of others? Why do people feel they have to put people down all the time to prove a point that really is irrelevant? The truth is there really are no rules in photography just easier or better ways to do things and get the same outcome. If you operate one way and someone does operates another what does it matter how you both achieved a nice shot? Why must we put folks down because they bracket +2-2, or meter or not. Photographers take shots and people pay them or buy them, I would think that pros don't by pros photos. So if the consumer likes it and buys it why hate on it and say arrogant childlike things about the person. That dude stuck in customs is blind in one eye and this shots are amazing. Think about how he sees life with one eye and can take such great composed shots. Unless you are using film and doing your own processing in a real dark room than those old timers could say the same for us and all our new state of the art software and cameras we use to get similar shots as they did years ago.


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## Overread

> The truth is there really are no rules in photography



There are rules. The whole technical side of photography is governed by physics which have set parameters and rules that you can't get around at all. The compositional side also has a massive range of theories and concepts behind it, even though most only get as far as "the rule of thirds" there is a lot more out there. 

Furthermore it still stands that the best way to learn, and the way that many many do, is to first learn the "rules". You've got to learn your exposure rules, your whole technical side in order to have control over the tools in photography (that includes both taking photos and processing photos be it in a darkroom or computer). From there you've composition, a little more freeform, but still has a massive history of artistic theories and concepts. Learning them, learning why they work is key to then being able to understand them and thus be able to "break" those theories later (remembering that many broken theories are simply following the guidelines of a different theory). 


In the end we will operate differently, based on how we like to shoot, how we like to operate and on the result we like to produce. However to best get there you've got to learn your basics. As a result you'll find many do not advise beginners to take their early learnings from resources that are not teaching the subject, but rather teaching an approach into the subject. It's better to learn your building blocks - Then - you can learn of different approaches into the subject.


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## ann

Rephargotohp said:


> Just to be clear about one thing though and I only know Canon's do this  For sure( Nikon DSLR's probably do too). AEB also function in Manual mode. Which can be very helpful when your framing may not be where you need to meter. A lot of P & S's do not offer this function in Manual mode only in Aperture priority



My d700 with AEB will work  in manual as well as up to 9 exposures in any fashion i wish.


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## ann

Professional do buy photos, I think it is important for photographers to collect photographs.


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## vipgraphx

Overread said:


> The truth is there really are no rules in photography
> 
> 
> 
> 
> There are rules. The whole technical side of photography is governed by physics which have set parameters and rules that you can't get around at all. The compositional side also has a massive range of theories and concepts behind it, even though most only get as far as "the rule of thirds" there is a lot more out there.
> 
> Furthermore it still stands that the best way to learn, and the way that many many do, is to first learn the "rules". You've got to learn your exposure rules, your whole technical side in order to have control over the tools in photography (that includes both taking photos and processing photos be it in a darkroom or computer). From there you've composition, a little more freeform, but still has a massive history of artistic theories and concepts. Learning them, learning why they work is key to then being able to understand them and thus be able to "break" those theories later (remembering that many broken theories are simply following the guidelines of a different theory).
> 
> 
> In the end we will operate differently, based on how we like to shoot, how we like to operate and on the result we like to produce. However to best get there you've got to learn your basics. As a result you'll find many do not advise beginners to take their early learnings from resources that are not teaching the subject, but rather teaching an approach into the subject. It's better to learn your building blocks - Then - you can learn of different approaches into the subject.
Click to expand...


Ok yes, there are rules that one should learn. Everything is has a degree of set rules but if you only follow those rules you will never think outside the box and capture something that one could have if broken the rules. I live by the laws that man has created for me and a religion that man has wrote. Does not mean I agree with everything that these rules say. Many on this forum talk and preach rules of thirds but then post pictures of gravel or pavement or weeds. Were is the rules of thirds in that? I do understand rules of thirds however I like center balanced images more for the most part and occasionally will follow the rules of thirds. I am far from being an accomplished photographer I know this and my style and technique will probably cripple me of that and I am ok with that. I agree that beginners should understand how to use their cameras and "rules" of photography but for the sake of understanding a not to become another robot out there. What makes someone unique is being able to set oneself away from the rest. Sadly on this forum, more folks only follow "THE" rules and do not wish to give an open eye to anything but and will bash someone for trying something new and different and feel superior for it. I just can not comprehend.


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## Overread

The problem is many don't read into compositional theory further than "the rule of thirds" which starts to give the impression that its the only rule there is when composing a photo. The truth is that there are many well established theories of composition and that many which "break the rule of thirds" are simply following another of these theories (if they realise it or not). 

Yes if you experiment you can get unique results, but if you study your experiments will be far less random and you'll have a far greater chance of actually getting something as a result that is really very good indeed.


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## vipgraphx

Agreed.


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## unpopular

Ok. Lets get down to earth a little.

My images are very unorthodox, and I find that people don't appreciate them much. So, don't tell me that I am some kind of traditionalist.

Second. I don't know why you think I am better than anyone else. You kind of interjected that in on your own. It seems every time someone starts talking about the art of photography and the content of images, you'll get all these people who don't much care to think about that element going off and calling the critic a snob or an elitist. I personally don;t understand why anyone would make an image without have any clue as to why, but don't judge for how I value photography.

Third: Great photographers - no matter if they are a published commercial photographer, a fine art photographer with multi-million dollar gallery shows or someone who photographs highschool seniors - love photography and it's possibilities as an artistic medium. They have vision, technical knowledge and the rare ability to apply one to the other. Great photographers are interested in one thing: great photography. Not the admiration of fans, not the sale of prints. Those things are the result of excellence.

Now. For the issue at hand here.

In the tutorial which was mentioned by this thread, the photographer exposes at ±2ev from some arbitrary "correct exposure". ±2 stops really has nothing much to do with the dynamic range of the image itself. How do you know that the entire dynamic range will be there, and be there with enough quality to make a suitable image? This is really akin to using your DSLR like a point and shoot camera with no controls. You know that in many cases this situation will work out, but this approach really has nothing to do with the scene at all when we're talking about HDR.

So what this really boils down to is this. You have two techniques:

1) Requires more skill but will result in better quality with more reliable, predictable results
2) Requires less skill but may result in more noise and is less reliable and less predictable

The ±2ev technique is great for getting your feet wet. However, I think to really appreciate HDR photography, people should really start thinking about it in a more customized way, taking into account the scene itself rather than a generic, one-size fits all approximation.


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## vipgraphx

unpopular said:


> Ok. Lets get down to earth a little.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> unpopular said:
> 
> 
> 
> Second. I don't know why you think I am better than anyone else. You kind of interjected that in on your own. It seems every time someone starts talking about the art of photography and the content of images, you'll get all these people who don't much care to think about that element going off and calling the critic a snob or an elitist. I personally don;t understand why anyone would make an image without have any clue as to why, but don't judge for how I value photography.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I don't think they are better you do and when you dismiss someones photos or call them a duche it clearly gives off the perception that you are better than. The reason I feel as I do is that the way you and some others phrase things in such a manner that its hard not to get that perception.
> 
> 
> 
> unpopular said:
> 
> 
> 
> Third: Great photographers - no matter if they are a published commercial photographer, a fine art photographer with multi-million dollar gallery shows or someone who photographs highschool seniors - love photography and it's possibilities as an artistic medium. They have vision, technical knowledge and the rare ability to apply one to the other. Great photographers are interested in one thing: great photography. Not the admiration of fans, not the sale of prints. Those things are the result of excellence.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> 
> So why call Trey a Duche? He is not all about fame. He actually trys to help people.
> 
> Now. For the issue at hand here.
> 
> 
> 
> unpopular said:
> 
> 
> 
> In the tutorial which was mentioned by this thread, the photographer exposes at ±2ev from some arbitrary "correct exposure". ±2 stops really has nothing much to do with the dynamic range of the image itself. How do you know that the entire dynamic range will be there, and be there with enough quality to make a suitable image? This is really akin to using your DSLR like a point and shoot camera with no controls. You know that in many cases this situation will work out, but this approach really has nothing to do with the scene at all when we're talking about HDR.
> 
> So what this really boils down to is this. You have two techniques:
> 
> 1) Requires more skill but will result in better quality with more reliable, predictable results
> 2) Requires less skill but may result in more noise and is less reliable and less predictable
> 
> The ±2ev technique is great for getting your feet wet. However, I think to really appreciate HDR photography, people should really start thinking about it in a more customized way, taking into account the scene itself rather than a generic, one-size fits all approximation.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> 
> Regardless of skill and education this dude has some of the best HDR images out there. His composition is superb. Noise is part of the HDR process and thats why noise reduction software comes in handy. I am sure he does not use it all the time just when needed. He is self taught and clearly states he gets a lot of heat over people that do not believe in his method. I guess people hate on him because he gets mad props when they don't because they fill they need know more about metering and lighting and exposure triangles. Regardless of all that,  I don't think it would make his photos any worse or better than what he is doing now.
Click to expand...


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## unpopular

well. i don't like Ratcliff and there is no sense reiterating why. Though this has absolutely nothing to do with image quality or noise. I'll admit, I kind of hodge-podged two issues together: my dislike of his content and his poor technique which he encourages others to follow.

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If noise is inherent to tone mapping, then why would you want to pile on more noise through through limited latitude? This just doesn't make any sense to me. Why not just do do things the right way?

And yes. There is a right way when we're talking about the technical aspect of things. From my admitted limited experience with HDR, excessive noise comes from two things - too great of a difference in exposure between steps, and too little latitude in the set. Essentially any situation where the tone mapping must push tonal regions in excess.


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## OldBaldy2

I prefer to use manual for HDR multi-exposure shots, so that I have one less thing to worry about - than having to think about potentially different exposures than I intended (and wanted) for a nice, even spread of exposures across the full dynamic range that I need to capture.

I generally don't use Manual for "normal" photography....where I use Aperture for things that stand still and Shutter priority for things that move. I also occasionally use Program mode, but will often then do a shift anyway....


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## EchoingWhisper

I prefer Aperture Priority for every shot because I could maximise ISO and shutter speed performance. But when using auto ISO, I prefer to go on manual mode.


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## Joel_W

Ttrying to help get this back on topic, I prefer to use AP over manual for my HDR scenics. Why, because it's just easier for me to control DOF. I'm using a tripod (which I do for more then 95% of my photographs), so shutter speed isn't very important to me. I've already pre-selected the lowest ISO setting I can use. If the scene requires an exposure adjustment, then I make it with EC.  There have been a few times when I taken a 2nd set of bracketed pictures after making another EC adjustment, then using most if not all of them in my HDR processing.


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