# Cyanotype first attempt



## Allen (Nov 11, 2010)

My scanner and computer are not talking at the moment so all I have is a crappy iCam image. 

This is my first try at cyanotype printing.

I made a UV printer, exposure time was 30 mins.

The original image was taken on an iPhone, converted to B&W and then the negative was printed onto transparency film.


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## compur (Nov 11, 2010)

Very, very nice.


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## ann (Nov 11, 2010)

good for you, it is very nice and you should be proud.


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## Allen (Nov 11, 2010)

Thanks.
I went to the art store and bought a ton of different papers and some pH strips.
My next set of experiments is going to be testing the same negative on the various papers.

I'm trying to build myself up to gum printing.


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## compur (Nov 11, 2010)

I don't know if you prepared your own Cyanotype paper or used the pre-made 
type but you might want to try Van Dyke printing.  It's one of the simplest of 
the alternative processes and a good introduction IMO.


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## Allen (Nov 11, 2010)

I prepped my own paper.
I have the chemicals to start Van Dykes.  I mixed them tonight and as I understand I'm supposed to let the sensitizer age a few days before I print.


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## ann (Nov 12, 2010)

VDB are a bit more sensitive to paper types than cyanotypes.  It seems the cheaper the paper the better the cyano , go figure.


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## Allen (Nov 12, 2010)

ann said:


> VDB are a bit more sensitive to paper types than cyanotypes.  It seems the cheaper the paper the better the cyano , go figure.



I noticed.
I cooked my first Van Dyke today and it had all sorts of weird staining.
The same paper made a fine cyano last night.

Thanks,

--Allen


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## ann (Nov 12, 2010)

As you advance up the chain of "types" the coating technique gets more critical.

That is why we generally start with cyanotypes as they are much more forgiving than VDB or Pd/pl.


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## Allen (Nov 12, 2010)

ann said:


> As you advance up the chain of "types" the coating technique gets more critical.
> 
> That is why we generally start with cyanotypes as they are much more forgiving than VDB or Pd/pl.



I figured out my issue.
I used the same syringe to place the sensitizer along my coating rod as I used with the cyanos. I had cross contamination. 

I just ordered some glass pipets.  Bulb instead of a plunger.  No rubber stopper for chemicals to hide under. 



I picked cyanotypes to start my learning curve.
I figured I would follow the standard route: cyanotypes to learn how to properly use a coating rod, VDBs to up the stakes a little, and then move into gum bi/dichromates (although before hand I'm going to try some two negative cyanos to get my feet wet dealing with registration--first coating sepia toned, second coat left blue). I'm saving pd/pl for a pack of lith film that I want to use to enlarge some 2 1/4 negatives. 

What papers are you using, Ann?
And thanks again for the feedback guys.  It's nice to have a sounding board when first stating a new process.


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## c.cloudwalker (Nov 12, 2010)

Very beautiful photo.

I'm very interested in where you are getting your recipes. I picked up a book called "Photographic Facts and Formulas" just before leaving the US that has what seems like some interesting ones. Seems because my darkroom is not quite ready and so I haven't tried anything yet. But your photo did make me want to get going


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## ann (Nov 12, 2010)

for the VDB we used Western Dipolmatic paper, inexpensive and worked well.

Years ago i must have tested at least a dozen different papers and loved Cot 320 but there are rumors that Bergger may no longer be making that paper.

You might check with Bostick and Sullivan about what they have i stock.

never use the same tools for different processes, it will shoot you in the foot everytime.


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## Allen (Nov 12, 2010)

c.cloudwalker said:


> Very beautiful photo.
> 
> I'm very interested in where you are getting your recipes. I picked up a book called "Photographic Facts and Formulas" just before leaving the US that has what seems like some interesting ones. Seems because my darkroom is not quite ready and so I haven't tried anything yet. But your photo did make me want to get going


Thank you very much.


The New Cyanotype &#8211; Cyanotype II process  Cyanotypes  Formulas And How-To  AlternativePhotography.com
^^^
There are two recipes listed there. 
I'm using a Bostick & Sullivan cyano kit for the first round.  For my VDBs I mixed my own chemicals using Wynn White's recipe.


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## Allen (Nov 12, 2010)

I learned another lesson today.
Always pre shrink your paper.


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## Allen (Nov 13, 2010)

Swing and a miss for pitches two and three. 











And next I'm going to try double coating the paper. 

God, I can't wait to have a working scanner again.


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## c.cloudwalker (Nov 13, 2010)

Allen said:


> The New Cyanotype  Cyanotype II process  Cyanotypes  Formulas And How-To  AlternativePhotography.com
> ^^^
> There are two recipes listed there.
> I'm using a Bostick & Sullivan cyano kit for the first round.  For my VDBs I mixed my own chemicals using Wynn White's recipe.



Thanks for the info. Bookmarked!


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## terri (Nov 14, 2010)

Lovely work!    :thumbup:


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## Allen (Nov 14, 2010)

I tried to use tea to tone a print this evening and got nothing.
No color shift in the cyanotype at all.  
I have no idea why the tannic acid did not react with the sensitizer. 

Any ideas?

Many thanks,

--Allen

<edit>
Tried a different brand of tea, used twice the bags and I got a color shift to navy. :thumb:


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