# How do I create pictures with extremely blurry backgrounds?



## SPL Tech1

I have been trying to figure how to create pictures that have extremely blurry / out of focus backgrounds so only the immediate foreground is clear, but I am having trouble figuring out how to do so. I know it&#8217;s an easy trick but I haven&#8217;t figured it out yet. I originally thought all one needs to do is set the aperture extremely low but I was wrong. I tried setting the aperture to my 40D's minimal setting, and although that did blur the background a bit, it did not blur it to the extent I am looking for. Can anyone give me some tips on how to achieve this effect? Below is an example of the effect I am trying to create:















I have a Canon 40D and the stock 28 - 135MM lens.


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## Overread

Well first off on the aperture - the lowest aperture setting is infact its largest settings 
A small aperture is, infact, a big f number and vis versa - so to start with you need your aperture at its largest, not smallest.

Moving on from there you then need to look at the distances involved - look at the seond shot you link to and see how the in focus object is close to the lens and camera, whilst the background (blurred) is much further off - this control allows the use of a smaller depth of field (hence your larger apterture - smaller f number) which gets the whole of the subject in focus, and throws the background into blur.

Any chance we can have a look at some of your work?


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## tirediron

The effect can be enhanced in photoshop using the radian blur or similar filters, but the best way is to use a lens with a shallow DoF as you've tried. A wide-angle elns has much greater DoF at a given aperture than a telephoto, so a common trick is to use a telephoto lens and stand back from the subject. Separating the subject from the background also helps. For instance in the second image, if the background were say two feet behind the vase, it might be reasonably sharp even at the largest aperture, but if you move the vase so it's 20' in front, then it will be nicley blurred. Hope that helps.

Also, since these are not your own images, pls change them to links rather than embedded images.

Tks


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## chrisburke

all you have to do is get really close to your subject.. this can even be done in auto mode... i dont know why yor getting such long explanations.. its simple.. be close to the subject


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## maytay20

Well with that lens it is hard to do.  I just recently purchased a 50mm 1.8 and love it!   I know there is better ones out there but for only spending $95.00 on both the lens and UV filter It does a awesome job!  With my 50mm 1.8 I don't have to be in my subjects face but at 1.8 you have to watch you depth of field so you don't blur out too much.


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## tirediron

chrisburke said:


> all you have to do is get really close to your subject.. this can even be done in auto mode... i dont know why yor getting such long explanations.. its simple.. be close to the subject


 
Because it's NOT that simple. Since the OP has a single zoom lens in his gadget bag, let's assume he's using the camera on auto and zoomed out to the max wide angle of 28mm. The camera selects an aperture of f32. Even if he's only three feet from the subject, he'll have a DoF of almost eight feet! Conversely, if he's zoomed in to 135mm, backs up say ten feet from his subject, and uses an aperture of f4, DoF falls off to a dramatic 3.5"!


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## Call_me_Tom

Depth of Field


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## joecoulsonphotography

Had a hard time even responding with that first pic......I think Overread said it best :  "Any chance we can have a look at some of your work?"  LOL


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## chrisburke

tirediron said:


> Because it's NOT that simple. !



I have to disagree with you when you say its NOT that simple... the following image was taken on my Nikon D50 using a 70-300mm Zoom lens, auto focus.. and come to think of it, it was even on one of the auto modes.. subject is in focus, and background is blurred out.. i did not do any post procssing to this picture..


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## NateWagner

well, yes it is easy to get the shallow DOF using a 70-300 especially if the light is at all low. However, if you're working at less than 50mm you have to work a lot more to get the shallow DOF.


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## joecoulsonphotography

chrisburke said:


> ....subject is in focus....


 

I have to say that is not true, his shirt is though.


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## tirediron

chrisburke said:


> I have to disagree with you when you say its NOT that simple... the following image was taken on my Nikon D50 using a 70-300mm Zoom lens


 
May I suggest you go back and re-read all of my post, particularily those portions that relate to the focal-lengths of the OPs lens?  And, no, I'm sorry the image you posted does not show either of the people in sharp focus, as noted by joe, the near edge of his sleev is however.


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## SPL Tech1

Overread said:


> Well first off on the aperture - the lowest aperture setting is infact its largest settings





Overread said:


> A small aperture is, infact, a big f number and vis versa - so to start with you need your aperture at its largest, not smallest.


By lowest I mean I set the aperture to 5.6 which is the lowest (numerical) aperture value I can set the camera to with the zoom lenses fully extended.

When you say the lowest aperture setting is its largest setting, what are you referring to? What is the largest? As in the lowest numerical aperture value produces the largest amount of background blur? When I set my camera to f22 the background is crystal clear. When I set it to f3.5 - 5.6 the background becomes more blurred.



So what I have collaborated from the responses so far is that if I want to achieve what I am looking for I should:

1. Use the highest level of zoom as close to the subject as possible.
2. Try to extend the subject as far away from the background as possible.
3. Set the camera to the lowest numerical aperture value (which is f5.6 at 135 mm and f3.5 at 28 mm).

Is this correct? Because my test pictures are shot in line with those three guidelines and the background is not any near as blurry as the example pictures I posted.

Also does it matter what I set the ISO to? Should I just leave the ISO set to the automatic setting?


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## Tolyk

Depth of field is controlled by three factors:

1. Aperture
2. Focal Length
3. Distance to subject (and subject distance to background, as was stated)

The greater the focal length, the easier it is to accomplish a completely blurred out background, at similar F-stops. Say for instance you're using that 28-135 fully zoomed in, at your largest aperture (5.6), and I'm using my 75-300 also fully zoomed in. I also can get 5.6 aperture, my depth of field will be more shallow than yours, creating a more blurred out background, mind you to get the same picture you'd have to move considerably back, which would affect your depth of field, so you'd then need a larger aperture to achieve the drastically blurred out effect you are wanting.

Working with a small object, like the flower sample you posted (which you should link to and not post, as someone else said) would work  reasonably well with the 300 at 5.6, without having to get too terribly far away from the subject.


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## sburatorul

SPL Tech1 said:


> By lowest I mean I set the aperture to 5.6 which is the lowest (numerical) aperture value I can set the camera to with the zoom lenses fully extended.
> 
> When you say the lowest aperture setting is its largest setting, what are you referring to? What is the largest? As in the lowest numerical aperture value produces the largest amount of background blur? When I set my camera to f22 the background is crystal clear. When I set it to f3.5 - 5.6 the background becomes more blurred.
> 
> 
> 
> So what I have collaborated from the responses so far is that if I want to achieve what I am looking for I should:
> 
> 1. Use the highest level of zoom as close to the subject as possible.
> 2. Try to extend the subject as far away from the background as possible.
> 3. Set the camera to the lowest numerical aperture value (which is f5.6 at 135 mm and f3.5 at 28 mm).
> 
> Is this correct? Because my test pictures are shot in line with those three guidelines and the background is not any near as blurry as the example pictures I posted.
> 
> Also does it matter what I set the ISO to? Should I just leave the ISO set to the automatic setting?




you did well by using these guidelines but no one mentioned that you get a way better blurred background with a larger aperture than 5.6. consider the 1.8 50mm. you don't have to stand across the yard to shoot flowers with blurred background. and no changing iso doesn't help with this, it just allows you to have faster shutter speeds.

sorry i missed maytays post... she mentioned the 50mm


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## Tolyk

Uh, I mentioned using a larger aperture too... The others were talking about the OP's existing equipment.


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## SPL Tech1

So I guess the ultimate question then is max zoom at f5.6 or min zoom at f3.5?  Which will create a more blurry background?  Do filters have any effect on the blurriness of the background?  Should I use any specific filter other than the standard UV and polarizer filters?


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## SPL Tech1

maytay20 said:


> Well with that lens it is hard to do. I just recently purchased a 50mm 1.8 and love it! I know there is better ones out there but for only spending $95.00 on both the lens and UV filter It does a awesome job! With my 50mm 1.8 I don't have to be in my subjects face but at 1.8 you have to watch you depth of field so you don't blur out too much.


 What is the make and model of this 50 mm your referring to?


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## Tolyk

Max focal length, at a closer distance, at 5.6

Wide angle is really hard to get dramatically out of focus backgrounds, and you need to be pretty much right in your subject's face at that point. Unless you own 1.2 aperture lenses


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## ddm1975

chrisburke said:


> I have to disagree with you when you say its NOT that simple... the following image was taken on my Nikon D50 using a 70-300mm Zoom lens, auto focus.. and come to think of it, it was even on one of the auto modes.. subject is in focus, and background is blurred out.. i did not do any post procssing to this picture..


 


:???:  If you learn to shoot in manual rather than trying to rely on what you "happen" to get in auto, you can achieve the results you want everytime.  I have some shots w/ crazy amazing bokeh and theres NO way I could have gotten that in auto!!!  

SLP Tech1, try to invest in another lens, and study and practice shooting in manual w/ your aperture wide open!  I have the 85 1.8 prime and get the results you are looking for!  Good luck!


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## DavidSR

I use my 55-250 to get a nice blurred background..here are a few pics.

1. I believe this one was zoomed in all the way with most likely an aperture of 5.6-8





2. I don't remember what my focal length was, but my aperture was most likely at 4 or 8.


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## TamiyaGuy

Basically, try and get as close to the subject as you can & select as large an aperture (or as small an F-number) as you can. I think everything else has been explained. If you really want that kind of an effect, then I would highly recommend buying a 50mm f/1.8 "Nifty Fifty" lens. It costs virtually nothing, and you can get some fantastic DoF blur with it.


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## Dao

SPL Tech1 said:


> What is the make and model of this 50 mm your referring to?



This one


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## Alex_B

- use the largest aperture available
- get the subject as far away from the background as you can
- use the longest focal length you can
- get as close to the subject as you can

filters have no effect

stay away from photoshop blur, it looks fake easily


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## Wiggly

tirediron said:


> The effect can be enhanced in photoshop using the radian blur or similar filters,


 
although true and a great helpfull hint, I tend to believe its always better to get the closest to your desired effect WHILE taking the picture as opposed to post pic editing.  Generally you want to change as little as possible in the editing programs. (unless of course you are plain doing some serious crazy/artistic editing)

not that TKS doesnt know this already obviously b/c he already posted the best way, just saying dont take this statement to heart and rely on things like this


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## beaminge36

Exposure:0.005 sec (1/200)Aperture:f/2.8Focal Length:50 mmISO Speed:200







As everyone else said, its really a matter of opening up your lens really wide and getting very close to the subject and make sure its much closer relative to the background. I think I was about 2 feet from the cat while the far background was about 10 feet away. As you can tell, the DOF was very shallow and the background blur was pretty intense. Good luck messing around with this, it takes a little practice to get the right balance between DOF and background blur (bokeh). This was shot with a 50mm f/1.4 lens. Hope this helps.

Nick


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