# here's a strange question



## apples (Mar 31, 2012)

Um...where do you guys get filmed developed and scanned? The local place is costing me like 12+ per roll and I don't know how long I can keep up with that price. I heard CVS does scanning for like 3$ but the quality can be hit or miss, but the CVS's around here do not seem to do 35mm film anymore...?

thanks in advance.


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## tirediron (Mar 31, 2012)

I go through a Canadian chain store which is the equivalent of CVS - they send the film to an out-of-province lab and turn-around time is 10-14 days.  I've not had 35mm done in a year or two, but 120 runs about $12.50/roll developed and contacted printed.  High quality scanning is about $6.00/frame from a local lab.  If you're doing a lot of 35mm, you might want to invest in your own scanner.  You can get some very nice models (Epson 700) which will do a very good job for <$500.


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## gsgary (Apr 1, 2012)

Seems like it is much easier to get good developing over here, the place i use has them back to me 2-3 days after receiving them 120 cost £10 develope and scan but there is a place i use that can charge £30+ for 1 scan but it is ultra quality


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## ann (Apr 1, 2012)

Do my own.


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## tirediron (Apr 1, 2012)

ann said:


> Do my own.


That's a good option, especially if you only shoot B&W.  Ironically, after selling my entire darkroom about 12 years ago, I'm thinking of setting up another one... the price of used, top-end enlargers and other gear is so pitifully cheap that it would be next to no expense at all... (aside from the $20,000 addition I'd need to put on my house that is...)


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## terri (Apr 3, 2012)

tirediron said:


> ann said:
> 
> 
> > Do my own.
> ...


Oh, now, you know you wouldn't need an addition to the house if all you wanted to do is develop your film.       You can crawl into a closet or a windowless bathroom at night and load the film.  Once it's in the tank, you can develop at the kitchen sink.    If you have a scanner and a nice photo printer you wouldn't need an enlarger.   

If you seriously wanted to make enlargements, which _would_ call for having space for the enlarger/trays, I've read of people having their enlargers set on carts that they can wheel in and out of the bathroom when they want to make prints, and had their trays lined up on a plank over the tub.  My own darkroom was an unused bedroom - no water.  I had my development trays lined up on a cheap folding table and slipped my prints into a water holding bath at the end.    My enlarger is clamped to an old office desk - worked great!     (I'm moving to a new house where I hope to add a real sink this time!) 

Point being, where there is a will, there's a way.    :razz:     And it's fun to really figure out a solution that works in one's particular environment.


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## djacobox372 (Apr 3, 2012)

tirediron said:


> ann said:
> 
> 
> > Do my own.
> ...



Or you can just buy a scanner and load your reels in a changing bag.


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## Deo (Apr 3, 2012)

do it my own


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## Krazy (Apr 5, 2012)

All myself. Overall it's less expensive and I can choose what pictures I can make instead of having useless 5x7's laying around for years.


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## apples (Apr 6, 2012)

might go buy and buy a film scanner then. thanks guys.


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## bhop (Apr 6, 2012)

Developed in my kitchen (b&w and color), scanned in my 'office'  (corner of my living room)


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## AlanE (Apr 6, 2012)

Apples - I was using CVS up until a couple weeks ago... They were charging ~$4.00 to develop and scan 24 exp to disk. At some point CVS determined there was an additional fee of ~3.00 per role. The fee printed on the receipt as 1 hr processing (CVS discontinued 1 hr processing sometime ago) but their corporate office explained it was a scanning fee and agreed to work on the receipt description issue. After paying the $7.00 a roll a couple of times I went ahead and began developing my own film. BTW, I took 2 rolls to Walgreens and they charged $18.00 to develop and scan both rolls.


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## apples (Apr 8, 2012)

AlanE said:


> Apples - I was using CVS up until a couple weeks ago... They were charging ~$4.00 to develop and scan 24 exp to disk. At some point CVS determined there was an additional fee of ~3.00 per role. The fee printed on the receipt as 1 hr processing (CVS discontinued 1 hr processing sometime ago) but their corporate office explained it was a scanning fee and agreed to work on the receipt description issue. After paying the $7.00 a roll a couple of times I went ahead and began developing my own film. BTW, I took 2 rolls to Walgreens and they charged $18.00 to develop and scan both rolls.


yeah i found that the right aid down the street still does film. About how much does it cost you to set up your darkroom?


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## AlanE (Apr 8, 2012)

I spent an arm and a leg, got every thing at the local camera shop on impulse (not smart). I spent around 400.00 but that also included an enlarger and accessories plus photopaper... I would think you could get set up for film dev for under a hundred.  Really all you need is chemicals, plastic gallon jugs for chemicals, tank, film reels, themometer, some measuring utensils, and accurate clock. Find a dark room in the house, with a sink if possible, and develop. I am definitely a lot happier with the results and the process is fairly simple. I did take 2 rolls of negs to CVS today to scan and they put both on 1 disk and charged me 3.00, not sure how long that will last.


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## Tony S (Apr 8, 2012)

If I'm reading your profile location right you are in Atlanta.  A Google search using "atlanta film processing" shows several labs in the area.


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## apples (Apr 8, 2012)

AlanE said:


> I spent an arm and a leg, got every thing at the local camera shop on impulse (not smart). I spent around 400.00 but that also included an enlarger and accessories plus photopaper... I would think you could get set up for film dev for under a hundred.  Really all you need is chemicals, plastic gallon jugs for chemicals, tank, film reels, themometer, some measuring utensils, and accurate clock. Find a dark room in the house, with a sink if possible, and develop. I am definitely a lot happier with the results and the process is fairly simple. I did take 2 rolls of negs to CVS today to scan and they put both on 1 disk and charged me 3.00, not sure how long that will last.


but then i'd need a nice scanner or something to get the film onto some kind of print medium, wouldnt I? I have a nice dark storage closet in my basement that would be picture perfect for a dark room so i'm really considering doing my own post processing...



Tony S said:


> If I'm reading your profile location right you are in Atlanta.  A Google search using "atlanta film processing" shows several labs in the area.


yeah, im using a local business right down the street from my uni. i'd feel kinda guilty for dumping him though lol.


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## AlanE (Apr 8, 2012)

If you're going to print then you need an enlarger... If you just want to load negs to pc/disk you need a scanner... I am developing film and letting CVS scan them to disk for $3.00.


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## apples (Apr 9, 2012)

a scanner would do just fine. excited!

whats a good brand?


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## minooo (Apr 9, 2012)

in Romania it is less than a dollar per roll


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## jamesbjenkins (Apr 9, 2012)

terri said:


> tirediron said:
> 
> 
> > ann said:
> ...


You've obviously never met my wife, sir.  The first time she finds a photo cart in her bathroom, I'd have to find a new system. LOL


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## AlanE (Apr 9, 2012)

apples said:


> a scanner would do just fine. excited!
> 
> whats a good brand?



I hear Nikon mentioned often but I have not studied up enough to give good advice...


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## ArcaneExposure (Apr 17, 2012)

The Epson v750 is the new must have scanner for film. Although a bit pricey, still less than the older Nikons when they were new.  The Nikons however can be found used for cheap.  Either of these options probably still cost more than setting up your own darkroom if your dilligent.  I just got a spare Omega D3 condenser enlarger for $20.   It sits in my "Breaking Bad" lab aka 40' motorhome.


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## ArcaneExposure (Apr 17, 2012)

One more thing I forgot!  I use my existing Nikon digital SLR with either a macro lens or extension tubes to make quick scans of my negs.  I use a flash behind the neg for light.


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## apples (Apr 17, 2012)

So I bought some ilford hp5+ and was wondering what to use to develop it, sorry when it comes to film i'm still a complete noobins.

If I don't get a scanner, then i'll see if my dSLR can handle the job, i've seen some tutorials on how to do that.


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## AlanE (Apr 17, 2012)

Going to need 

Developer - I use TMAX
Stop Bath (might can use just water)
Fixer - I use a Kodak fixer
Wetting Solution - I use a drop of dishwashing soap, seems to work.  


My last roll of film processed was Ilford 125 FP and came out pretty well using TMAX Developer but I am sure there are more experienced people who can give you better advice.


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## apples (Apr 17, 2012)

all the tutorials/videos seem to show how to do stuff instead of what they do it with...i'm guessing because it changes with the type of film and chemical.

Maybe if I get desperate enough i'll go ahead and use caffenol


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## bhop (Apr 17, 2012)

This is copied from an old list I posted from when I bought it all.  I paid around $80 for everything at the time, that was a few years ago.

Freestyle Photo.

Basically all I bought (and all you really need for b/w developing) is:
-1 Developing Tank
-1 Thermometer
-3 mixing bottles
-1 graduated cylinder
-Chemicals (Developer 'clayton f76'/Stop Bath/Fixer/Photo Flo 'arista brand for those three')

That's it.. I bought a bag of clothes pins from the 99¢ store to hang the wet negatives to dry in my bathroom.  I use a regular bottle opener to open the film canisters in my dark closet, scissors to cut the leader and the end where the film is, then on the reel it goes.  I mix the stop, fix, and photo flo in the bottles and set them aside, then mix the developer in the cylinder each time i'm ready to do a roll.

I later bought a film changing bag because changing the film in my closet is only doable at night thanks to the slight crack in the bottom of the door.  Then later I also bought a steel tank and steel reels.. so much better than the plastic ones, and I also use a squeegee now, because I kept getting water spots.


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## ArcaneExposure (Apr 17, 2012)

apples said:
			
		

> all the tutorials/videos seem to show how to do stuff instead of what they do it with...i'm guessing because it changes with the type of film and chemical.
> 
> Maybe if I get desperate enough i'll go ahead and use caffenol



The developers being arguably the most important decision.  generally theres a lot of playing around in this area since the developer is whats actually resposible for most aspects of the image (grain speed fine details contrast & tonality). each film and developer combo has a different result.  

the technique used to process the film (agitation, temps, etc) will also greatly affect how they turn out.  

I tune my development based on what I expect to so with the film ( which enlarger or scanner I'll be using)

the beauty of film is ... your probably going to get an image as long as you dont contaminate chemicals and develop roughly the 'suggested' time/temp for your film / developer combo.

The stop bath is responsible for stopping the development process, which as said can be water or an acidic bath.  

the fixer is what makes the image permanent.  so you can admire it for years to come!

Ive never noted any differences between different stop baths and fixers so get what you like there.  

the one piece of advice i can offer for your situation though would be to get liquid concentrate chemicals.  theyre way easier to mix and as for me they end up costing less.  personally I normally use HC-110 and measure it with a syringe from the drug store.  my results are also more consistant than say using D-76, where it starts its downhill spiral in regards to delelopment potency as soon as its mixed

theres an ultimate dev chart app that has a built in timer with loads of film / developer combos.


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## apples (Apr 18, 2012)

Now, I know that you don't need a darkroom for developing film, but what if I happen to have a darkroom with the red safety light? Can I use the light to load up film reels rather than in complete darkness?


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## dxqcanada (Apr 18, 2012)

Nope ... film is sensitive to visible light (and some films to invisible wavelengths).

Red safelights are for B&W paper.


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## apples (Apr 18, 2012)

dxqcanada said:


> Nope ... film is sensitive to visible light (and some films to invisible wavelengths).
> 
> Red safelights are for B&W paper.


Yeah, I _just_ read that in another thread and came back here to edit mine, but you beat me to it. Looks like no shortcuts for me 

I don't have a surgeons hands so it'll probably take me plenty of tries before I do it right.


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