# Looking to start developing my own B&W film



## Nikconshooter (May 9, 2012)

I mostly shoot with Fuji neopan

I'm curious to know what all I need, this is what I have so far

Universal tank with reel

Paterson Universal Tank with Reel (Super System 4) PTP115 B&H

Darkroom Thermometer

Delta 1 6" Precision Darkroom Thermometer 12415 B&H Photo

print tongs

General Brand Bamboo Print Tongs (Set of 3) with Rubber DL-0301

Film Wiper

Samigon Film Wiper ESA275 B&H Photo Video

One thing is I don't know what developer I should be using... anyone have any suggestions?


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## dxqcanada (May 9, 2012)

You don't need tongs to develop film ... used for paper.

Clothes pins or Film Clips when hanging to dry.
Graduated cylinders
Developer, Stop Bath, and Fixer.

Film developer is a personal thing.
I use Rodinol or Ilfosol.


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## Josh66 (May 9, 2012)

You don't really need the squeegee or the tongs.

You will need either a changing bag or a dark room to load the film onto the reel.

You will need some type of film clips.  I use these:  Delta 1 Stainless Steel Film Clips (Pack of 10) 58050 B&H Photo

You will need sleeves to put the negatives in, and boxes to put those in.
Print File Archival Storage Page for Negatives, 35mm - 010-0115
Archival Methods 06-102 Binder Box 06-102 B&H Photo Video

You will need storage containers for your chemicals.  At least two, three (or more) depending on which developer(s) you use.

I use a 5L container for fixer, and 1L for stop bath, but I guess it really depends on what chems you use.  Read the directions and see how big the container needs to be.

You will also need graduated cylinders or something like that for measuring chemicals.  If you're going to use a liquid concentrated developer, you'll probably also want a small syringe (10cc) for measuring that.


For developers, I would personally start with HC-110 if you're not sure.  It has a long shelf life, and works for just about any film.
Rodinal is nice too (and lasts forever) - but don't use it on anything faster than about 100 ISO film unless you like lots of grain.
I always liked Xtol too...


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## Josh66 (May 9, 2012)

Get some Photoflo too (or whatever the Ilford version is called).


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## Derrel (May 9, 2012)

I think the easiest-to-use, easiest-to-mix,easiest to store film developer for B&W films is Kodak HC-110, a thick, syrupy liquid that stores very well in its own bottle, and which can be mixed up right before film is developed, using a small measuring graduate and 1/4 oz of developer concentrate for a single-roll tank, and 1/2 oz of developer concentrate for a two-reel tank. So....one needs a small, highly-precise measuring graduate to measure such small amounts precisely and consistently.

Kodak D-76 film developer works very well, especially diluted 1:1 with water. It is mixed up from dry chemicals sold in foil-lined pouches, and so is easy and cheap to buy mail-order due to light weight and small size. You need to mix up the developer and water really,really thoroughly and accurately, and then keep the developer stored in capped, dark-colored bottles, like say, the 1-liter dark brown plastic screw-cap root beer bottles sold by some oddball brands, or 32- or 40-ounce dark brown beer bottles with screw cap lids.

Kodak indicator stop bath is the next chemical. Next is rapid fixer--and Ilford makes great fixer, sold in jugs.

THIS place, Freestyle Photo, has been a mail-order Mecca for decades!   Freestyle Photographic Supplies - Traditional Black & White Film, Paper, Chemicals, Holgas and ULF


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## Nikconshooter (May 9, 2012)

lots of good info here but say I get the Kodak D-76 developer and you mix it 1:1 does it make 1 gallons? B&H shows two versions of it. I'm wondering if I should just stick with the HC-110 instead


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## Josh66 (May 9, 2012)

You would make a 'working solution', and dilute that 1:1 (as you need it).
(If it's a 1 gallon kit, it will make 1 gallon of working solution.  You can use that as-is, or dilute it.)

I can't remember if HC-110 is classified as ORM-D or not (edit - looks like it's not.  Some other developers and some fixers are though.) - if it is, B&H won't ship it.  No clue why...

I usually order all of my chemicals from Freestyle, because B&H won't ship a lot of them.  Easier to just get it all from one place.  I like Freestyle more for film stuff anyway.  Check out their Arista brand.


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## djacobox372 (May 10, 2012)

Just stay away from powder.  Liquid concentrate dev can be mixed up fresh for each use and the concentrate will last for years on the shelf.  Powder dev requires that u mix a a stock solution first, which doesnt last more than a month or two on the shelf.


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## ann (May 10, 2012)

Nikconshooter said:


> lots of good info here but say I get the Kodak D-76 developer and you mix it 1:1 does it make 1 gallons? B&H shows two versions of it. I'm wondering if I should just stick with the HC-110 instead




stick with the hc 110 would be my suggestion.


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## KenC (May 10, 2012)

ann said:


> Nikconshooter said:
> 
> 
> > lots of good info here but say I get the Kodak D-76 developer and you mix it 1:1 does it make 1 gallons? B&H shows two versions of it. I'm wondering if I should just stick with the HC-110 instead
> ...



+1 -  I always found it to work better than D-76.


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## ClickClickClick (May 10, 2012)

I'm sure you probably already know this, but just in case:  make sure you also stock up on film, if Fuji is your brand!  They have to increase prices significantly on August 1st (in the US).    Here's a link if you didn't know and want to read more: Fujifilm to Increase Prices for Film and One-Time-Use Cameras.  Also, something else you might want to get for developing film:  timer.  I know most ppl have timers on their phones and whatever else, but I would get a quick-setting timer that you don't mind getting all nasty with chemicals.


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## michaeljamesphoto (May 10, 2012)

Just use water for a stop bath. Acid stop is smelly, corrosive, and superfluous. 
Rodinal is amazing because it can be used in many dilutions and the concentrate will outlive you if you don't use it up. Very cheap per roll if used at 1:50, 1:100, or more. Look up the massive dev chart for any developing time questions


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## Nikconshooter (May 10, 2012)

michaeljamesphoto said:


> Just use water for a stop bath. Acid stop is smelly, corrosive, and superfluous.
> Rodinal is amazing because it can be used in many dilutions and the concentrate will outlive you if you don't use it up. Very cheap per roll if used at 1:50, 1:100, or more. Look up the massive dev chart for any developing time questions



When I used to use a enlarger we used stop bath I did not think it was all that bad.. it for sure has a smell but I'm sure this stuff has to be mixed at very persice ratios right?



ClickClickClick said:


> I'm sure you probably already know this, but just in case:  make sure you also stock up on film, if Fuji is your brand!  They have to increase prices significantly on August 1st (in the US).    Here's a link if you didn't know and want to read more: Fujifilm to Increase Prices for Film and One-Time-Use Cameras.  Also, something else you might want to get for developing film:  timer.  I know most ppl have timers on their phones and whatever else, but I would get a quick-setting timer that you don't mind getting all nasty with chemicals.


 I did not know this! Thanks for the warning! I will make sure I stock up on the film.. My Nikon FE is having issues right now with the shutter for some reason but I plan on loading some B&W film to try out again.



ann said:


> Nikconshooter said:
> 
> 
> > lots of good info here but say I get the Kodak D-76 developer and you mix it 1:1 does it make 1 gallons? B&H shows two versions of it. I'm wondering if I should just stick with the HC-110 instead
> ...


 Yeah now that I look at it I think it's better to go with that.



djacobox372 said:


> Just stay away from powder.  Liquid concentrate dev can be mixed up fresh for each use and the concentrate will last for years on the shelf.  Powder dev requires that u mix a a stock solution first, which doesnt last more than a month or two on the shelf.


Good to know this I guess that's why it's cheaper.



O|||||||O said:


> You would make a 'working solution', and dilute that 1:1 (as you need it).
> (If it's a 1 gallon kit, it will make 1 gallon of working solution.  You can use that as-is, or dilute it.)
> 
> I can't remember if HC-110 is classified as ORM-D or not (edit - looks like it's not.  Some other developers and some fixers are though.) - if it is, B&H won't ship it.  No clue why...
> ...


Yeah I don't understand B&H as well it's too much of a hassle for me to pick it up in the store since I'm about 40 min away in Connecticut I guess they just don't want to deal with the hassle of shipping it and doing the required paperwork.


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## ClickClickClick (May 11, 2012)

Oh, good!  I'm glad I was telling you something new, then 

Yeah, I like Freestyle, but I believe they're based in CA, no?  For CT, I would definitely recommend Unique Photo since they're based in NJ.  I get everything from there.  And I know for a fact they ship chemicals.  Not sure if they have what you're looking for, but I'd imagine they do since they're still huge film suppliers.  Here's what I could find: Chemistry: Champion, Fuji, Ilford, Kodak, Konica Minolta, Rockland Liquid Light | uniquephoto.com


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