# Outdoor concert advice?



## Danny_511 (May 6, 2013)

Im not sure how to explain this but basically, on may 17th Columbia College is having a festival/concert thing and one of my favorite artists is performing. My comfort zone is normally portraiture and street photography so, concerts are a whole new world for me. It'll be at about 6:25-7:10 so the golden hour sunlight would just be setting in. Idk whether to use a speedlight or bump my ISO up, should i shoot manual or is Program ok? Im fairly new to manual mode by the way. Any tips for concert photography would be really helpful.

Sorry I kind of rambled, I just dont know what to say. Thanks in advance


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## AKirkland (May 6, 2013)

Personally, unless you know how to balance your speedlite well with the ambient light I would vote shoot all ambient and bump your ISO. Not sure what body you're shooting so a maximum setting is hard for me to recommend. If your comfort zone is portraiture, start out with that as a basis for the beginning of their concert. Focus on your composition and shoot tight to begin with. As you get a feel for what is going on you'll begin to know what shots to get, and what angles to shoot from. 

IMHO if you're not comfortable with manual set your camera to A (Aperture priority) A for Nikon, Av for Canon. Set your ISO to about 400 if you're in good light or 800 if you have harsh shadows and expose for the face. Most cameras do well at ISO800 so that's an OK starting point. You can drop it if you need to. Aperture priority will select your shutter speed according to your aperture setting (IE 2.8, 4, 5.6, etc) and your ISO speed. Shoot wide open and blow out the background. If you have a 2.8 lens shoot it at 2.8. If you need some leeway and are not worried about your background drop it to F3.2 or F4 even if needed. If you really need to, you can turn on Auto ISO and set a maximum of say 3200 (Depending on the body, most DSLR's do fine these days with some NR, if you have an older body try a max of 1600 and go with that. Only crank your ISO if its needed.) after Auto ISO is on and you're in aperture priority, the camera will determine your ISO Setting AND shutter speed after you choose your F stop. 

Remember, if you're shooting on a lens with a maximum aperture of say F4.5, or 5.6 try and shoot closest to your minimum focus distance to help blow that background out. Some converts don't have the most amazing stage sets.

Hope this helps,

Austin


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## Danny_511 (May 6, 2013)

AKirkland said:


> Personally, unless you know how to balance your speedlite well with the ambient light I would vote shoot all ambient and bump your ISO. Not sure what body you're shooting so a maximum setting is hard for me to recommend. If your comfort zone is portraiture, start out with that as a basis for the beginning of their concert. Focus on your composition and shoot tight to begin with. As you get a feel for what is going on you'll begin to know what shots to get, and what angles to shoot from.
> 
> IMHO if you're not comfortable with manual set your camera to A (Aperture priority) A for Nikon, Av for Canon. Set your ISO to about 400 if you're in good light or 800 if you have harsh shadows and expose for the face. Most cameras do well at ISO800 so that's an OK starting point. You can drop it if you need to. Aperture priority will select your shutter speed according to your aperture setting (IE 2.8, 4, 5.6, etc) and your ISO speed. Shoot wide open and blow out the background. If you have a 2.8 lens shoot it at 2.8. If you need some leeway and are not worried about your background drop it to F3.2 or F4 even if needed. If you really need to, you can turn on Auto ISO and set a maximum of say 3200 (Depending on the body, most DSLR's do fine these days with some NR, if you have an older body try a max of 1600 and go with that. Only crank your ISO if its needed.) after Auto ISO is on and you're in aperture priority, the camera will determine your ISO Setting AND shutter speed after you choose your F stop.
> 
> ...



It really helps and yeah sorry about not mentioning the body. Its a t1i. I can go to 3200 and it looks fine and use topaz denoise to get rid of the specks. But wow, that really did help. Thank you sir.


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## pixelwhip (May 6, 2013)

shoot ambient & use a fast prime if u are able. if i'm shooting live perfomance i'd seek the permission of performers to use flash first.


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## Steve5D (May 6, 2013)

Concert photography; kinda' right in my wheelhouse...

First, forget the flash. If you're in the pit you won't be allowed to use it, and if you're in the audience, it's not going to do any good. Aside from those, nothing will suck the life out of a concert photo more quickly than a flash.

If it's still going to be daylight, I can't imagine needing an ISO beyond 400, and I'm not sure I'd want to go even that high. The time of day is only one consideration, though, with regards to the quality of the light. If the orientation of the stage is such that the performers will be looking west, you'll be in good shape. If they're looking to the east, you're screwed, because you'll be shooting into a setting sun.

As for the time of the set, I can't remember the last time I shot a festival for which the schedule was accurate. They're scheduled to hit the stage at 6:25pm? Figure that band's going on closer to 7:00pm.

Now, aside from that:

Are you going to be credentialed? If so, plan on being allowed to shoot three songs (sometimes less) before being ushered out. You will not be permitted to use a flash and, if you do, you can expect to be removed from the pit. If you're not going to be credentialed, if you bring DSLR, you can expect to be escorted from the venue once security sees you shooting. Yeah, you _might _get away with shooting, but you also may not (and this is most often the case), and it's best for you to be prepared for the worst case scenario. 

Now, looking at the line-up, there don't really seem to be any "national acts" performing, so I would imagine that restrictions would be somewhat lax as opposed to those in place for a nationally known act. Be safe, though, and check before you go...


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## Danny_511 (May 6, 2013)

Steve5D said:


> Concert photography; kinda' right in my wheelhouse...
> 
> First, forget the flash. If you're in the pit you won't be allowed to use it, and if you're in the audience, it's not going to do any good. Aside from those, nothing will suck the life out of a concert photo more quickly than a flash.
> 
> ...



Lol I wish I could be credentialed.  Im just a photography loving teen. But thank you so much for the help


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## Derrel (May 6, 2013)

Shoot at an ISO level that ensures your pictures will be sharp. I know Steve mentioned not needing to go as "high" as ISO 400, but at 7:00 PM-7:20 PM, ISO 400 might be too low of an ISO to ensure you movement-stopping capability; a lot of it depends on the light level, and what kind of gear you have, both camera, and lens(es). If you have a newer, modern d-slr that shoots great up to ISO 6,400 it's "one thing"; if you have an older Rebel or lower-spec'd Nikon that starts to get pretty badly noised-up at ISO 800 and higher, it's "another thing". We don't really know what you have to work with...so...

I have seen (and myself actually screwed up!!!) more situations by staying with too low of an ISO setting to ever think of advising people to limit themselves to ISO 400, or lower, on events that happen during the twilight period. Especially if I think they might well be stuck using f/3.5~5.6 lenses like 18-55 kit zooms, or something similar, which tops out at f/5.6. You mention the golden hour...yeah...maybe there will be sunlight slanting in....or, maybe, it'll turn out to be an overcast day, and you'll be sitting there looking at f/5.6 at 55mm at 1/40 second at ISO 400. It's almost always better to have a slightly noisy image that is basically sharp, than a low-noise, perfectly-exposed series of smeared, blurry frames that are mostly unusable. So, if the situation or your gear, or more likely the combination of situation and your equipment, dictates, jack the ISO to whatever is needed, when the day arrives and you are there.

Hope for the best, prepare for the worst. I remember one July 4 parade where it was raining, and people had old woolen blankets over their shoulders as they sat and stood and watched a windy, cold, rainy parade. 1983. Man, what a sucky July 4 that was. I had prepared to shoot beautiful, blue-sky + white cloud Kodachrome 64 slides, but instead had to switch to grainy, expensive high-speed Ektachrome just to gain some speed.


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## Danny_511 (May 6, 2013)

Derrel said:


> Shoot at an ISO level that ensures your pictures will be sharp. I know Steve mentioned not needing to go as "high" as ISO 400, but at 7:00 PM-7:20 PM, ISO 400 might be too low of an ISO to ensure you movement-stopping capability; a lot of it depends on the light level, and what kind of gear you have, both camera, and lens(es). If you have a newer, modern d-slr that shoots great up to ISO 6,400 it's "one thing"; if you have an older Rebel or lower-spec'd Nikon that starts to get pretty badly noised-up at ISO 800 and higher, it's "another thing". We don't really know what you have to work with...so...
> 
> I have seen (and myself actually screwed up!!!) more situations by staying with too low of an ISO setting to ever think of advising people to limit themselves to ISO 400, or lower, on events that happen during the twilight period. Especially if I think they might well be stuck using f/3.5~5.6 lenses like 18-55 kit zooms, or something similar, which tops out at f/5.6. You mention the golden hour...yeah...maybe there will be sunlight slanting in....or, maybe, it'll turn out to be an overcast day, and you'll be sitting there looking at f/5.6 at 55mm at 1/40 second at ISO 400. It's almost always better to have a slightly noisy image that is basically sharp, than a low-noise, perfectly-exposed series of smeared, blurry frames that are mostly unusable. So, if the situation or your gear, or more likely the combination of situation and your equipment, dictates, jack the ISO to whatever is needed, when the day arrives and you are there.
> 
> Hope for the best, prepare for the worst. I remember one July 4 parade where it was raining, and people had old woolen blankets over their shoulders as they sat and stood and watched a windy, cold, rainy parade. 1983. Man, what a sucky July 4 that was. I had prepared to shoot beautiful, blue-sky + white cloud Kodachrome 64 slides, but instead had to switch to grainy, expensive high-speed Ektachrome just to gain some speed.



Understandable. Lol im gonna have to screenshot these so I can remember what you guys said.


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## hirejn (May 6, 2013)

If you can catch any part of dusk, you have a light advantage and may not need a super high ISO or flash. I wouldn't use flash anyway because it's generally poor etiquette during performances. A golden rule is use a lens with 2.8 or faster. You need the most light you can get for a shutter speed that can freeze motion, about 1/200. If you don't have 2.8, you have 3.5 to 5.6, and that's about a stop less light minimum. If you have those cheaper lenses, shoot wider to get a faster working aperture. I'd recommend manual exposure and do a couple test exposures. With auto it's too easy for the camera to be fooled by changing backgrounds and subject sizes. Also, shoot RAW. That gives you more flexibility with color later since WB can be tricky in concert situations.

This is assuming you have permission to shoot. Respect the venue and staff, and musicians.


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## vintagesnaps (May 6, 2013)

Are you shooting film or digital? Just curious because I looked at your profile page and I have a Konica Autoreflex too. Gee, I'd take that... and a sharp short telephoto...

But seriously, you'd probably have to find out what you'd be allowed to bring in, some venues won't allow longer lenses. That and how close you can get to the stage will probably determine what would be the best option. (Oops just realized this was posted under digital so that takes care of which camera you'd be taking...)

I'd go early and take some photos before the performer you want to photograph will be on stage so you can gauge the light and see what settings might work. I shoot all manual, all the time (pretty much) so I don't know what would work best for you, but I always use the meter to tell me what settings are giving me a proper exposure. 

That time of day I'd think you could manage with the existing light. I'd notice where the stage lights are hitting the musicians and try to catch a particular performer when he's in the light, not if/when he moves out of the light to a darker part of the stage. In low light if I'm having trouble focusing on something I'll try to find an edge or line that's in the same plane as what I want in focus - maybe a shirt collar or an object like the mic as long as your aperture isn't wide open and limiting the depth of field. Hope you have fun with it.


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## Danny_511 (May 6, 2013)

vintagesnaps said:


> Are you shooting film or digital? Just curious because I looked at your profile page and I have a Konica Autoreflex too. Gee, I'd take that... and a sharp short telephoto...
> 
> But seriously, you'd probably have to find out what you'd be allowed to bring in, some venues won't allow longer lenses. That and how close you can get to the stage will probably determine what would be the best option. (Oops just realized this was posted under digital so that takes care of which camera you'd be taking...)
> 
> ...



I had to sell the auto reflex to help play for my current camera  lol but thank you and I hope I have fun too


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