# Roar Before The 24 2018



## CaboWabo (Jan 7, 2018)

Roar Before The 24 - Rolex  24 hours practice Daytona International Speedway 
Please comment so I can figure out if I am on the right path or what I am doing wrong 

1






2





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5


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## ac12 (Jan 7, 2018)

I would shoot/crop to leave more space in front of the car than behind.  That visually leave the car room/space to drive into.
But some do opposite, more space behind the car, on the idea that it shows speed.
> IOW there are different schools of thought, and you have to determine which you belong to, or which the particular image fits into better.

Nice panning.


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## qmr55 (Jan 8, 2018)

Nice shots!

I agree with @ac12 in leaving more room in the front than in the back, very subtle though...like you did in #2, that’s great!


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## PJcam (Jan 8, 2018)

Nice pictures Cabowabo


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## CaboWabo (Jan 8, 2018)

I think I will try your ideas and crop them to see them differently , I am all new at the crop game so I will try to differently to see how it goes


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## ac12 (Jan 8, 2018)

#5, The car is too close to the bottom of the frame.  I prefer a bit of "something" there.  It feels off balance with the car so low in the image.


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## BrentC (Jan 8, 2018)

Some good tips already.   Try playing around with shutter speed as well to get different kinds of images.  Use slower shutter to get that motion blur background and give a real sense of speed.  It will also show how good your panning is.


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## Dean_Gretsch (Jan 8, 2018)

These are some really beautiful cars. The suggestion of experimenting with different crops is a good one. You can change a photo dramatically with a crop.


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## CaboWabo (Jan 10, 2018)

I tried to crop this one a little different , is this what everyone is suggesting?


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## BrentC (Jan 10, 2018)

CaboWabo said:


> I tried to crop this one a little different , is this what everyone is suggesting?




Much better.   Just adjust the level, its leaning to the right a bit.


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## beagle100 (Jan 12, 2018)

CaboWabo said:


> I tried to crop this one a little different , is this what everyone is suggesting?



maybe,  not great panning (shutter speed) ... but you're on the path to the "crop game"
*www.flickr.com/photos/mmirrorless*


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## CaboWabo (Jan 12, 2018)

beagle100 said:


> CaboWabo said:
> 
> 
> > I tried to crop this one a little different , is this what everyone is suggesting?
> ...



I have been working on it can you suggest a better speed for panning 
It was set at 
F13
iso 320
1/320


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## Derrel (Jan 12, 2018)

Leave MORE space in front of the car....not centered, but with* more room for the car to "move into"*. This type of placement of a race car within the frame is often critical to the success of many racing images.

Honestly...I would slooooooow the shutter wayyy down on most of these panning shots, to sublimate the ugly backgrounds so often seen at racetracks. Speeds depend on distance, direct of the car across the frame, and size of the car within the frame.


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## rosh4u (Jan 12, 2018)

Nice shots. Good Going


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## ac12 (Jan 12, 2018)

Put the autofocus point on the car, and leave plenty of room around the car.
If you have cars going L>R and L<R,  shifting the AF point for each direction will be a PiA, so just use the center AF point.
I find it too hard to crop fast moving action in the camera.
So I shoot sports with space around the subject, then crop the image later.


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## CaboWabo (Jan 15, 2018)

Thanks everyone for the help , I will try all off this at the race itself at the end of the month


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## Braineack (Jan 15, 2018)

You need to get down to 1/40sec


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## CaboWabo (Jan 15, 2018)

Thanks Braineack  , Now do I keep everything else the same to start out with 
F13 
iso 320 or raise or lower that too 

I am trying to find a good starting point 

I was thinking 
F22
iso 200
1/40


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## Destin (Jan 15, 2018)

CaboWabo said:


> Thanks Braineack  , Now do I keep everything else the same to start out with
> F13
> iso 320 or raise or lower that too
> 
> ...



You don’t want to be shooting sports at f/22. 

Put the camera in shutter priority (Tv on canon I think?) and set your shutter speed to where you want it. Put your iso down to the minimum native setting 100-200 usually depending on your camera, and let the camera sort out the aperture. If it gives you an aperture that’s really small like f/22 you may consider using an ND filter to get back down to the f/11 range.


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## Braineack (Jan 15, 2018)

you gotta work your way down, starting at say 1/125 will be good.  you will have a keeper rate of about 1%, but when you nail one it's worth it.

here's some inspiration to depress you; buddy of mine has the BEST panning work I've ever seen:

ImidgeryByKMidgett

seriously stunning work.


here's the last time I went out, doesnt hold a candle: Sahlen's Six Hours of The Glen


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## CaboWabo (Jan 15, 2018)

Thanks for the help Destin I will listen and not shoot at F22 
And Braineack than thank you that is not depressing at all , in fact it makes me wanna work harder to get to where he is and yours is just as good imo  

And thanks again for all your guys help


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## CaboWabo (Jan 19, 2018)

How should my auto focus be set for racing , right now its set at AF-C and at auto area

And how should the metering be set right its set at right now its set at Matrix

The camera is a D90 with a NIKKOR 70-300mm f/4-5.6G lens 

Thanks to all that are helping me without all the help I think I would have just giving up


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## Braineack (Jan 20, 2018)

go manual mode, meter every now and again.

with your camera, i would use single point giving the other options of dynamic or auto area.

usually i figure out where im going to track the car -- i tend to use a focus spot towards the edge and track along a headlight of the car (helps with framing), then as the car is moving along i try to match the speed, using BBF, then trigger a shot or two when it's where I want it.  dont spray and pray.


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## ac12 (Jan 20, 2018)

CaboWabo said:


> How should my auto focus be set for racing , right now its set at AF-C and at auto area
> 
> And how should the metering be set right its set at right now its set at Matrix
> 
> ...



AF-C is good.

I generally use center point AF with D9.  
Auto area modes like 3D can be tricky.  RTFM.  Some will follow the subject, others will do "closest subject."  You also need to practice with area modes, as they may behave different than you think.

Matrix metering is generally fine.  BUT, you need to look at the scene.  If you have a BRIGHT or DARK background, it can fool the meter into under exposing or over exposing the scene.  Then you need to look at using either center weight, spot or manual.  If the lighting is not changing, like clouds hiding the sun, you can set to manual and leave it.  Think of the "Sunny 16 rule."


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