# Back Button Focusing-Who is skilled at using it?



## Stacy Morin (Sep 23, 2014)

I did a quick search in the forums about this-came up with a few OLD 2006 posts. So I am posting a new one! I have read and read that BBF is the way to sharper images. I have researched on just how to do it. I have my D7000 all set up and I use it. But I'll be damned if I am doing it correctly! I seem to always have to keep my thumb pressed down for focus. I never release it and "recompose" the shot like they say to do! If I did that I would lose focus all together! Can someone please explain this to me? (and  t a l k  real  slow  P l e a s e)


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## Stacy Morin (Sep 23, 2014)

Okay I feel like I just had an Oprah "ah ha moment" after reading this article!
3 Reasons Why You Should Switch To Back Button Focus - Digital Photography School 
I am going out to practice this today and "take my thumb" off the button once I focus! I still would like others input on BBF as well! (now that I answered my own question!!


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## ronlane (Sep 23, 2014)

How far are you moving the camera to recompose? What f stop are you using?  If you are moving from the left eye from the center of the photo to the left side of the frame and using something like f/1.8, you are going to loose some sharpness do to the change in focus distance.

I use bbf all the time but depending on what I am shooting, I use a focus point as close to the composition that I want to have in my final photo.

Practice is always a good thing.


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## astroNikon (Sep 23, 2014)

I actually use my Back Button to LOCK Focus. - AF-Lock
In doing sports, like soccer it helps when you are tracking the soccer ball in flight versus wanting the camera to focus on, well, the background.

But I also use BBF, but I find using it for Focus Lock is easier on my fingers (forefinger - thumb) as I track action and do half releases to focus moving action then Back Button Lock.


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## tirediron (Sep 23, 2014)

ronlane said:


> How far are you moving the camera to recompose? What f stop are you using?  If you are moving from the left eye from the center of the photo to the left side of the frame and using something like f/1.8, you are going to loose some sharpness do to the change in focus distance.
> 
> I use bbf all the time but depending on what I am shooting,* I use a focus point as close to the composition that I want to have in my final photo.*
> 
> Practice is always a good thing.


^^That^^      "Focus and recompose" is a technique that can cause serious issues if your depth of field is not sufficient to acount for the change in composition.  BBF is a useful tool in certain situations, but like anything, it's NOT an all or nothing scenario.  That article strikes me like many I have read which talk about the wonders of shooting fully manual.  Yes, you should know how to do it, and in the right circumstances it's useful, but it's by no means the be all/end all, nor does it make you cooler because you use it.  The same with BBF.  Know it, practice it and know when it's appropriate and when it's unnecessary.


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## sm4him (Sep 23, 2014)

I hate to admit it, but I have never really understood how to use BBF, or even my AE/AF-lock button on the D7000. I've also never bothered to take the time to RTFM about it either, though.  I never think about it until I'm out somewhere and then I think, "I wish I knew how that worked." 
Gotta make it a priority to at least learn HOW to do this--then I can decide whether it's helpful to me or not.


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## Gary A. (Sep 23, 2014)

I use BBF. There is a learning curve and it will take some time until one becomes completely comfortable with BBF. If you are a long time shutter release button focus person, the initial plunge into BBF is very awkward. One of those muscle-memory things. Obviously, the more you use BBF the quicker you will arrive at your comfort level.

If you are shooting stationary subjects where you have time to move your focus point around the LCD/viewfinder ... it is better to frame and move a focus point.

If you're shooting a non-stationary subject where timing is critical, BBF can be a wonderful tool. I shoot a lot of action and with BBF I can slam my focus finger and pump the BB without having to temper my slams for fear of releasing the shutter. Not having to worry about 'shutter release finger modulation', (depressing the shutter release only halfway down), is just one less thing for me to worry about and I can concentrate more brain power, (a commodity of such short supply I shouldn't dilute what little I have and spread it around), on composition and timing.

For me, BBF has been well worth the effort.

Gary


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## Braineack (Sep 23, 2014)

meh.


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## astroNikon (Sep 23, 2014)

sm4him said:


> I hate to admit it, but I have never really understood how to use BBF, or even my AE/AF-lock button on the D7000. I've also never bothered to take the time to RTFM about it either, though.  I never think about it until I'm out somewhere and then I think, "I wish I knew how that worked."
> Gotta make it a priority to at least learn HOW to do this--then I can decide whether it's helpful to me or not.


Page 232 of the d7000 manual --> http://cdn-10.nikon-cdn.com/pdf/manuals/kie88335f7869dfuejdl=-cww2/D7000_EN.pdf

F5: Assign the AE-L/AF-L button in the Custom Menu

you can assign that button a variety of things, such as:
*AE-AF Lock*  - auto exposure & auto focus lock
*AE Lock* only
*AF Lock* only (my favorite)
*AE Lock & Hold* - stays locked until pressed a 2nd time, versus holding the button in
*AF-ON* - initiates autofocus.  The shutter release button can not be used to focus - what most ppl use for BBF
*FV Lock* - lock flash value, 2nd press to cancel


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## sm4him (Sep 23, 2014)

astroNikon said:


> sm4him said:
> 
> 
> > I hate to admit it, but I have never really understood how to use BBF, or even my AE/AF-lock button on the D7000. I've also never bothered to take the time to RTFM about it either, though.  I never think about it until I'm out somewhere and then I think, "I wish I knew how that worked."
> ...



Thank you!! Only…now I have NO excuse to learn how to do this, do I? 
Guess I'll be checking this out tonight when I get home!


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## astroNikon (Sep 23, 2014)

as mentioned, it takes some getting used too.
Syncing your fingers together to work together rather than separately.

but once your fingers work, then it definitely shows it's benefits.


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## Derrel (Sep 23, 2014)

I find BBF is overrated much of the time. For the beginner, the biggest danger is using BBF, then forgetting about it, and winding up with out of focus shots because the AF has been removed from its normal association with the shutter release button.

It's kind of one of those things that many people get all excited about when they first find out about it. Like shooting wide-open all the time or "getting bokeh".


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## cynicaster (Sep 23, 2014)

tirediron said:


> Yes, you should know how to do it, and in the right circumstances it's useful, but it's by no means the be all/end all, nor does it make you cooler because you use it.



The "I Shoot BBF" t-shirt is the new "I Shoot Raw" t-shirt.


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## ronlane (Sep 23, 2014)

cynicaster said:


> tirediron said:
> 
> 
> > Yes, you should know how to do it, and in the right circumstances it's useful, but it's by no means the be all/end all, nor does it make you cooler because you use it.
> ...



They go on sale at my soon to be launched website, save up your "$19,95 plus shipping and handling" now.


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## 480sparky (Sep 23, 2014)

I use BBF when I'm shooting static subjects, but switch back when I'm shooting sports or wildlife.


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## runnah (Sep 23, 2014)

I use it all the time. Works well for tracking a subject until you get them where you want them.


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## Lucryster (Sep 23, 2014)

Or just use the group focus option on d810s and d4s


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## pjaye (Sep 23, 2014)

Gary A. said:


> I use BBF. There is a learning curve and it will take some time until one becomes completely comfortable with BBF. If you are a long time shutter release button focus person, the initial plunge into BBF is very awkward. One of those muscle-memory things. Obviously, the more you use BBF the quicker you will arrive at your comfort level.
> 
> If you are shooting stationary subjects where you have time to move your focus point around the LCD/viewfinder ... it is better to frame and move a focus point.
> 
> ...



This. 
This is how I use BBF. It took me a day or two to get used to it. And I once changed it without realizing it and it took me a bit to figure it out. But I love back focus.


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## frommrstomommy (Sep 23, 2014)

I switched to BBF a few months ago and have no complaints for the shooting I do. It was weird getting used to it at first but now it's second nature.


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## ronlane (Sep 23, 2014)

frommrstomommy said:


> I switched to BBF a few months ago and have no complaints for the shooting I do. It was weird getting used to it at first but now it's second nature.



Wow, just that recent?


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## frommrstomommy (Sep 23, 2014)

Yes! I didn't even know it existed til then. lol


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## JacaRanda (Sep 23, 2014)

Works great when you can just hold it down in AI Servo while tracking a Great Blue Heron across the sky.  Or any other moving object you want to continually focus track.


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## Stacy Morin (Sep 23, 2014)

Well, I am glad I posted something that got people talking! I never did a chance to get out there and practice some more today but there is always tomorrow!


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## Rick50 (Sep 23, 2014)

I switch between the two a fair amount. Depends on what I'm shooting. Moving objects I use BBF and AI-SERVO for focus tracking. Twilight or night scenes on a tri-pod I use BBF .and focus once and leave it alone. Just walking around I prefer the front button.


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## DustinB (Sep 23, 2014)

I wouldn't say I'm skilled but I'm starting to use it, definitely comes in handy with moving targets. Who knows, maybe there's a better way. Don't be afraid to move your focus point close to where you want it. I know I wouldn't have been able to focus on this little bastard without it, even then I was shooting in continuous mode.


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## frommrstomommy (Sep 23, 2014)

DustinB said:


> I wouldn't say I'm skilled but I'm starting to use it, definitely comes in handy with moving targets. Who knows, maybe there's a better way. Don't be afraid to move your focus point close to where you want it. I know I wouldn't have been able to focus on this little bastard without it, even then I was shooting in continuous mode.



"little bastard" LMAO


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## imagemaker46 (Sep 23, 2014)

I've never used the back button.  If I was having problems staying locked on moving subjects I would try everything to fix the problem, but I don't have that problem.  I think , like so many things camera related it simply comes down to personal choice, and what feels right.  I'm used to the feel of using just a shutter button, and the amount of pressure I need to stay on it while I follow the subject.


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## snerd (Sep 23, 2014)

I switched late last year and have never looked back!


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## SpikeyJohnson (Sep 23, 2014)

I use BBF for AF-ON and have the shutter pressed slightly for AF Lock.  I don't know why because it is really no different from using the shutter pressed slightly for focus and lock/shutter full down but I do like that it disassociates the shutter from focus.  That means that if I don't wat the focus to change I don't have to hit the BBF swtich to lock then hit the shutter.  Just press the BBF to focus then if something moves in frame the shutter button doesn't change anything (if by chance I'm actually in Auto Area Focus instead of single point).

Edit: Also it's fun when you give the camera to people and they can't get it to focus. Then you say "Oh, you don't know how to use a DSLR? YOU ARE NOT A PHOTOGRAPHER!"  JK but the expressions are funny when they can't get it to focus like a normal camera.


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## CameraClicker (Sep 24, 2014)

Having focus on the shutter button works best for me.  I have the back button set to turn off auto-focus so I can skip the switch on the lens.  That saves me forgetting to switch the lens back to AF.


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## paigew (Sep 24, 2014)

I use BBF, have for a while. I mostly toggle but sometimes recompose. I almost always shoot fast, randomly moving subjects (toddlers), + do so shooting wide open (2.8).


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## Braineack (Sep 24, 2014)

I really just dont understand why you want to remove any AF/AE locks and set your camera up in a way that you can fire without hitting focus.  I don't see any functional difference between pressing halfway and using BBF, except in one configuration I lose the ability to AE lock when spot metering.


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## manny212 (Sep 24, 2014)

BBF - 100% all the time .


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## JacaRanda (Sep 24, 2014)

This explains pretty well why.  Works for some, not for others.

3 Reasons Why You Should Switch To Back Button Focus - Digital Photography School


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## Braineack (Sep 24, 2014)

JacaRanda said:


> This explains pretty well why.  Works for some, not for others.
> 
> 3 Reasons Why You Should Switch To Back Button Focus - Digital Photography School



if those are the three reasons why, then I don't see any reason.


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## JacaRanda (Sep 24, 2014)

Braineack said:


> JacaRanda said:
> 
> 
> > This explains pretty well why.  Works for some, not for others.
> ...


Yuppers.  It's one of those things just like nearly every other thing about photography; works for some not for others.


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## Derrel (Sep 24, 2014)

JacaRanda said:


> This explains pretty well why.  Works for some, not for others.
> 
> 3 Reasons Why You Should Switch To Back Button Focus - Digital Photography School



Okay, so, let me quote a passage from the above article:
*No More Refocusing Every Time You Let Go of the Shutter*
This was one of the most frustrating things I ran into when I used the ‘shutter half way down’ method of focusing. Sure you can lock in focus by holding the shutter half way down, then focus will stay locked as long as you hold your shutter in limbo. But then you have to hold your finger there! If you really think about it, doesn’t that sound absurd? If you let go or accidently lift your finger just a little bit, the camera will refocus as soon as you press it down again. Or press the shutter a little too hard and you will take a picture before you’re ready."
****************
Okay. Well, here's the OTHER SIDE of the coin! So, you can focus ONCE, and then shoot multiple images without re-focusing for each shot. yeehaw!!!  What that allows you to do is to compose a nice portrait using a wide aperture for subject/background separation, and shallow depth of field. With your high-resolutuion 24- to 36-MP d-slr you can then proceed to shoot 10,15 frames, the first one definitely in-focus, but half of the other frames quite possibly being ever-so-slightly out of focus, as your subject MOVES an inch or two or three as they pose or refine their pose. SO, instead of EACH FRAME being carefully focused with each press of the shutter button, you get ONE "average focus" point at the start,and subsequent frames are basically shot UN-focused. Or should we say,* shot to a point of average focus, based on the initial frame.*

When using a 70-200 f/2.8 zoom, or a 70-300 VR lens, what the BBF method does is to disregard the absolutely CRITICAL nature of dead-on, precise, exacting autofocusing on real-world subjects in any kind of dynamic shooting situation.

There are often two sides to an issue...the author might just as well have entitled that point, "No more refocusing on high-MP captures, because, well, ONE time focusing is all you'll ever need."

And the idea that one might accidentally take a shot by pressing too hard on the shutter? An AD with digital? (AD= accidental discharge! lol)....uh, yeah...so what? This is not 120 rollfilm at $1.09 per click...I can shoot 850 raw frames before I need to reload...an accidental frame is like, nothing to me.


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## JacaRanda (Sep 24, 2014)

I guess some dummy thought it would be a good idea and some other dummy implemented it.  

Never should have given us the choice.


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## Gary A. (Sep 24, 2014)

The worst part is that many of us dummies jumped on it.


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## Derrel (Sep 24, 2014)

One thing that's interesting..the OP mentions the references BBF from the 2006 era...the 8,10,12 MP era. That was a different era, with much l lower resolution cameras and in many cases, weaker AF systems than we have now. That was the era of the 12MP $5,000 Nikon D2x and the Nikon D200, and the 8-MP Canon 20D...as I recall, that was the era BEFORE Canon consumer cameras even had a back button focus option direct from the factory; the asterisk button, you know the * button, had to be custom-function-adjusted to become the de facto back button for focusing...BBF was often touted as some sort of panacea, a way to give Canon users access to what was, at that time, only found in the professional 1D-series Canons.

As can be seen in the professional-level Nikon bodies, with separate AF and AE buttons with a five-option Custom Function menu, there are multiple ways to configure the dual-featured, combined *AE-Lock AF-Lock *button, and also the single AF-ON button. But when the consumer cameras from Canon copied Nikon and added a separate, direct-from-the-factory AF ON button, web based quickie articles spouted like psychedelic mushrooms after the first rains...

So, there are a lot of ways to set up a camera, but these quickie articles can't possibly encompass the whole gamut of what is possible to do as far as customizing the AF and metering systems. The basic idea of BBF is one thing, but the metering the camera uses, and how that is locked in is being ignored. Messing around with BBF and BBmetering can be a heck of a mess for people who are not 100% fully aware of how many options there are. Do you want a button to LOCK the metering AND the focusing while held? Or press to lock and stay locked until a second press? Do you want the focus locked but the meter allowed to move up and down, freely? Do you want the metering, and the focusing, tied to one another, or separately controlled? Do you want the focusing to be locked when the button is pressed and held IN, but the metering to run freely and locked by half pressing and holding the shutter button? Do you want to both focus AND meter, and lock both with one press and hold of the button? Do you want to have *the focus*, and *the metering*, AND *the release* all controlled by one,single,logical,unmistakable button--the shutter release button?

It's interesting that on the new Nikon D750, the combined AE-L AF-L button is there, but they have dropped the AF-ON button the pro bodies and D800 series uses. ZPR-NIKON-D750-BACK-600.JPG


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## astroNikon (Sep 24, 2014)

I use the Back Button to Lock Focus as trying to catch a flying soccer ball for focus seems impossible as the AF likes to focus on the background.instead.  So making a multi-picture of say 3 shots of someone kicking a soccer ball I get the person kicking the ball in focus and Lock it, to pan a bit to get the ball moving away.

That's one example of how I use the button but not a BBF, but as AF-Lock with the release button doing the AF as normal.


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## BillM (Sep 24, 2014)

Derrel said:


> It's interesting that on the new Nikon D750, the combined AE-L AF-L button is there, but they have dropped the AF-ON button the pro bodies and D800 series uses. ZPR-NIKON-D750-BACK-600.JPG



Other than the new swivel screen it is a D7100 back. So they probably have the ability to program AF-ON to the AE-L AF-L button just like the D7100.


I switched to BBF as I don't have all the feeling in my fingertip due to a car accident, it is a big help to me.


This is a great thread, lots of good info. Keep it coming


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## JacaRanda (Sep 24, 2014)

Hard to believe, but there are still stragglers out there that are not used to halfway pressing a shutter button to obtain focus.  They just mash away.


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## Gary A. (Sep 24, 2014)

JacaRanda said:


> Hard to believe, but there are still stragglers out there that are not used to halfway pressing a shutter button to obtain focus.  They just mash away.


That would be me.


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## CameraClicker (Sep 24, 2014)

JacaRanda said:


> I guess some dummy thought it would be a good idea and some other dummy implemented it.
> 
> Never should have given us the choice.



If we always all shot the same thing, one configuration would make sense.  Since we shoot different things, the option to configure differently is nice.


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## 480sparky (Sep 24, 2014)

So far, I don't think anyone has tried to say BBF is a one-stop cure-all for focusing issues.  It's merely _a tool_ that can be used.... when needed.


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## Vince.1551 (Sep 24, 2014)

I find BBF priceless when shooting on really low light (slow shutter speed) where it's difficult to even manually focus and where you need to recompose on a tripod. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## JacaRanda (Sep 24, 2014)

imagemaker46 said:


> I've never used the back button.  If I was having problems staying locked on moving subjects I would try everything to fix the problem, but I don't have that problem.  I think , like so many things camera related it simply comes down to personal choice, and what feels right.  I'm used to the feel of using just a shutter button, and the amount of pressure I need to stay on it while I follow the subject.



I'm curious, what function(s) do you have your shutter button set to do?  If the subject is moving quickly towards you and you want several bursts to get shots of their legs and arms in different positions - AI Servo mode (depending on the camera brand you use)?

I would like to try something different.


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## kundalini (Sep 24, 2014)

I use BBF exclusively.
Prior to that, I learned how to roll my forefinger over the shutter release button rather than just slamming it down to take a shot.  Really reduces camera shake.


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## imagemaker46 (Sep 24, 2014)

JacaRanda said:


> imagemaker46 said:
> 
> 
> > I've never used the back button.  If I was having problems staying locked on moving subjects I would try everything to fix the problem, but I don't have that problem.  I think , like so many things camera related it simply comes down to personal choice, and what feels right.  I'm used to the feel of using just a shutter button, and the amount of pressure I need to stay on it while I follow the subject.
> ...



I use a Canon 1Dx have it set on Al servo all the time, use centre spot and keep it in the centre of the chest. The Dx is capable of up to 14fps, although I rarely shoot long bursts, maybe 5-6 frame bursts.


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## JacaRanda (Sep 24, 2014)

imagemaker46 said:


> JacaRanda said:
> 
> 
> > imagemaker46 said:
> ...



Thank you for the reply.  So when the shutter is depressed to take the short burst of 5-6 frames, it's also still operating the servo tracking function - simultaneously?


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## imagemaker46 (Sep 24, 2014)

The autofocus is almost as fast as the 12 fps burst.


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## CameraClicker (Sep 24, 2014)

JacaRanda said:


> I'm curious, what function(s) do you have your shutter button set to do?  If the subject is moving quickly towards you and you want several bursts to get shots of their legs and arms in different positions - AI Servo mode (depending on the camera brand you use)?
> 
> I would like to try something different.



Shooting by focus and recompose, I use Single Shot focus.  When shooting subjects moving toward or away from me, and still in Single Shot mode, I let go of the shutter release then press it again.  If I am expecting a moving subject, I set to Servo mode and the camera tracks the subject, even during a burst of shots.  The catch is that you have to keep an active focus point on your subject which can be a challenge with a subject that is moving quickly but erratically.


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## JacaRanda (Sep 24, 2014)

CameraClicker said:


> JacaRanda said:
> 
> 
> > I'm curious, what function(s) do you have your shutter button set to do?  If the subject is moving quickly towards you and you want several bursts to get shots of their legs and arms in different positions - AI Servo mode (depending on the camera brand you use)?
> ...



Yes, that is exactly how I catch birds in flight and pretty much every other critter.  However, I use ai servo almost all the time and BBF 100 % now.  I either hold the button down for moving objects or just depress it once for stationary subjects. 

Cool to know that the 1DX autofocus is fast enough to not have to separate the button/function.  Hoping 7dm2 is same or close.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


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## runnah (Sep 24, 2014)

So different strokes for different folks.


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## Shane Anderson (Sep 27, 2014)

This is how I configure BBF (on Nikon D7100 and D750):

The AE-L/AF-L button on the rear is set to AF-ON. 
AF mode is always set to AF-C (continuous autofocus)
This is how I use it:

Press and hold to initiate and maintain continuous autofocus.  Press the shutter release when required.  This is for any situation where I know or think the subject might move, even just a small amount i.e. wildlife, sports and portraits.
Press once and release to attain and lock focus.  I use this method for static shots e.g. landscapes, for focus-and-recompose, or where I want to lock focus on a particular spot for some reason.  Note that this is exactly the same as using AF-S (single servo autofocus).
With the above setup I am able to utilise the full functionality of both the AF-S and AF-C autofocus modes without having to mess around with the AF mode selector and dial.

Note that with the above bodies you can also set the shutter half-press to have the AE-Lock function if you desire.


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