# Drying Glossy Prints



## wjk (Jan 28, 2007)

What is the best way to dry glossy prints? (RC or fiber based)---I tried to use a blotter book but was not happy with the results---is a print dryer a good investment?


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## Sw1tchFX (Jan 28, 2007)

i was going to say, run it though a dryer. The last few prints i've done, i've just hung them up and hang dried them.


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## Jazz (Jan 28, 2007)

For rc, squeegee, then just hang them up to dry for 10 minutes (I use a clothesline in my darkroom).  For fiber, squeegee, then put face up on print drying screens (like window screens).  No need for a dryer.


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## mysteryscribe (Jan 28, 2007)

micorwave oven


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## Majik Imaje (Mar 3, 2007)

I am different, I think different.. I work different

my ideas are only my opinion only!


I use the refrigerator.. I slap them right up on the outside take a sponge and wipe them once.  peel them off 15 minutes later

take them off and throw them on the bed  upside down for the back to dry.

That is my method for RC based prints.. Yes I have had many print dryers and expensive ones also

but for fiber prints you need ferrotyping plates, they are cheap, you need a roller and a lot of practice! don't use single weight paper double weight is much preferred.  very high gloss.. or you can spray gloss on any print also for great results. or textures.


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## Majik Imaje (Mar 3, 2007)

I forgot to answer your question and for some reason it would not let me edit the previous entry.

Stick with RC paper.. use the money you would have spent on the dryer and purchase more paper..

the paper prints you can sell! to make some more $$  you can't make any money off that dryer!


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## Mr. Bananagrabber (Mar 5, 2007)

hang it out overnight at the most. though ive dried it for longer and it was still wet (that may be because some one put their print above mine and it dripped)


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## Flash Harry (Mar 5, 2007)

Hairdryer, easy.


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## poppyseeds (Mar 5, 2007)

mysteryscribe said:


> micorwave oven



Seriously??


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## Hertz van Rental (Mar 5, 2007)

Jazz said:


> For fiber, squeegee, then put face up on print drying screens (like window screens).  No need for a dryer.



The problem with air drying fibre is that some of the fibres can shrink more than others during the process and it will never dry flat. You get big uneven 'cockles'.
The best way is to get a proper print dryer.
These can be rotary or flat bed. They are heated surfaces with a 'blanket' that holds the print flat. Drying is quite quick.
If you hunt around you can find dryers and they shouldn't cost much. I actually got a rotary for nothing.
If you do a search in here you should find several threads on this topic - I remember contributing to them.

http://cgi.ebay.com/Print-Dryer-pho...7182780QQihZ013QQcategoryZ29988QQcmdZViewItem

It needs a bit of work (washing and neutralising the blanket mostly) but something like this would be fine.


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## Efergoh (Mar 6, 2007)

Hertz van Rental said:


> The problem with air drying fibre is that some of the fibres can shrink more than others during the process and it will never dry flat. You get big uneven 'cockles'.



and it is worse with some papers. Illford curls like the dickens. If you screen dry, a heat press is needed to flatten them out well enough to pass muster, even then, they will tend to curl up if left to their own devices.

I like Oriental and Kentmere papers. they don't curl as bad as Illford. Bergger is an other good paper that doesn't curl as badly.


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## karissa (Mar 6, 2007)

mysteryscribe said:


> micorwave oven


 Wouldn't that melt the print?


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## Christie Photo (Mar 6, 2007)

karissa said:


> Wouldn't that melt the print?



of course.  You'll destroy an RC print in short order.

As for fiber base prints, I'm surprised I didn't hear anyone bring up Pakosol.  I used to like the smell of the prints on the dryer.


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## terri (Mar 6, 2007)

I've never tried the microwave, but it is mentioned in texts as a quick way to dry test prints and test strips when you can't stand around waiting for dry down. Quite respected printers, such as Les McLean and Tim Rudman, use a microwave routinely for FB prints. 

I would imagine the wildcard is getting used to your own microwave, as obviously strength and times will vary from paper to paper. 

But yeah, it's definitely a tool to use.


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## Christie Photo (Mar 6, 2007)

terri said:


> ...it is mentioned in texts as a quick way to dry *test* prints and *test* strips... Quite respected printers...use a microwave routinely for FB prints.



Hmmm...  well...  not having done any research, I suppose I have to reluctantly accept this.  I having a LOT or trouble reasoning what good comes from making your wet prints into really hot wet prints, or how this promotes a glossy finish.  I can't imagine how this can be good for the emulsion.  Live and learn, I guess.

Pete


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## Hertz van Rental (Mar 6, 2007)

Microwaves only heat water molecules so theoretically it would work. RC doesn't absorb water except for a small amount in the gelatine. Fibre takes it into the Baryta too but if the print was only heated minimally - so the water temp didn't go too much above the melting point of gelatine - it would be no different to using a normal print dryer. The aim in both is to drive off the water as vapour.
The problems with a microwave are that they tend to heat unevenly so parts of the print will dry quicker than others which would cause buckling and distortion in fibre based.
I would stick with a rotary or flat bed dryer for fibre. Rotary for choice. Those babies will dry prints as fast as you can feed them, will glaze the print if you want and the blanket holds the prints flat for minimal distortion.

I know from experience that just because someone respected does something, it doesn't mean it's a good thing. But I keep an open mind and I wouldn't advise anyone not to try it if they wished. If it works for you then that's a good thing.
I have often use a hairdryer on RC to speed things along. Whatever works.


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## terri (Mar 7, 2007)

Christie Photo said:


> Hmmm... well... not having done any research, I suppose I have to reluctantly accept this. I having a LOT or trouble reasoning what good comes from making your wet prints into really hot wet prints, or how this promotes a glossy finish. I can't imagine how this can be good for the emulsion. Live and learn, I guess.
> 
> Pete


And I appreciate that reluctance! I've not tried it, either, but have come across it enough to where it seems apparent no major harm is done. I'd start at my lowest setting and short times and see how it went. 

And hey, if it can give me a reasonably dry print to where a judgment call can be made within a few minutes instead of hours, that can only be a good thing to help me proceed with my printing session. 

I plan on taking a week long workshop with Dr. Rudman later this year. There are plenty of things I plan to pick his worthy brain about, and I may add this to the list.


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## Christie Photo (Mar 7, 2007)

terri said:


> I plan on taking a week long workshop with Dr. Rudman later this year. There are plenty of things I plan to pick his worthy brain about, and I may add this to the list.



Cool!  Thanks, Terri.


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## JC1220 (Mar 7, 2007)

As mentioned above for FB, dry on screens, but I place them face down for a couple of reasons. The paper tends to curl to the emulsion side and if there is any excess water on the paper, and if the print is up, it will pool and can cause wrinkles that just can't be removed. Plus face down helps controll the curling.

But, face down works best for me, then when dry 20-30 seconds in the drymount press and into storage, I only use single weight paper too.


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## karissa (Mar 7, 2007)

terri said:


> I've never tried the microwave, but it is mentioned in texts as a quick way to dry test prints and test strips when you can't stand around waiting for dry down. Quite respected printers, such as Les McLean and Tim Rudman, use a microwave routinely for FB prints.
> 
> I would imagine the wildcard is getting used to your own microwave, as obviously strength and times will vary from paper to paper.
> 
> But yeah, it's definitely a tool to use.


Hmm.. learn something new....


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## Paul Ron (Mar 11, 2007)

For a high gloss you need to use a ferotype plate. After washing you soak the prints for a few seconds in a special wetting solution, then face down on the plate. They will have a very high gloss once dry. 

My drum dryer, the drum is a ferotype so I have the option of either matt, face to the cloth or glossy face to the drum. 

RC glossy will air dry glossy.


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