# Just bought a Canonet GIII QL-17!



## Gregoryniss (May 14, 2009)

Just won one of these off of Ebay :mrgreen:. This will be my first rangefinder camera so i'm looking for some basic tips on how to use one. Anything helps, I think im going to pick up a wein cell px625 battery (any feedback on these things? how long do they last?). Just wanted to share some excitement and possibly some tips on how to get good results!


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## bhop (May 15, 2009)

Congrats.  I have 2 user Canonets and a third parts camera.  I love using them.  It was my first rangefinder too and now i'm saving for an M-mount camera cuz i'm hooked on rangefinders!  I actually probably use the Canonets more than any of my other cameras.  The small size is nice so i'm able to take it wherever I go easily, and although i'm not a fan of shutter priority (the only way the meter works on these cameras) I got used to it, and it is capable of nice sharp photos.   The 40mm f/1.7 lens is fantastic and just the right focal length for my style of shooting.  Not too wide, not too long.

As far as tips, make sure you set the aperture ring to A, as I mentioned, only way the meter works, although, you can still shoot meterless with no battery.  Battery life?  It's hard to say, but I "think" my weins last for at least 6 months if not longer.  Not as long as "normal" batteries, but it's only 5 bucks for one, not too bad.  Make sure you check your light seals when you get it, and make sure the aperture blades open and close smoothly when you turn the ring.  Other than that, just have fun with it.


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## usayit (May 15, 2009)

Congrats... I have 5 on my shelf (in various states of operation.. bummer). heheh lol.  If you find the Canonlite D flash that goes with it, buy it.  They are hard to find in working condition and design specifically with the camera as a system (don't use it on other cameras especially DSLRs... high trigger voltage).  Lovely camera and a blast to use.  It was made popular in part of the clean look it had and easy operation.  It was also featured in the 90s movie "Pecker" which also boosted its popularity.

One of five was in mint condition until the magneto (I think?) went... I definitely want to get it fixed someday.

As for tips... bhop pretty much covered it... it is an easy camera to learn.  If you have a battery in it, make sure you take it OFF of "A" when storing.  This is to make sure you are not draining the battery.    The original mercury px625 is no longer available (banned).  You can find alkaline versions of the battery:  www.photobattery.com

Light seals in these cameras also tend to get sticky over time.  100% of all Canonets I have ever seen needed to have these replaced.  They are easy to DIY.  You just have to find foam sheets somewhere which can be difficult to find.  My source is out of business (used to be cameraseals.com).  I found a couple sales on ebay...  Please post if you find another source.


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## usayit (May 15, 2009)

btw.. bhop...  M-mount eh...  :thumbup:

Considered high bang-for-the-buck Cosina/Voigtlander and/or the wonderfully featured Konica Hexar RF?


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## Torus34 (May 15, 2009)

For anyone looking for this general type of camera, the Yashica G series rigs are readily available at great prices.  A bit of fiddling with a home-made spring to adapt present batteries [same voltage] to fit and you're up and running.  The GSN model even has parallax correction -- something of a boon for those new to rangefinders.  The lens is excellent, too.


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## Dwig (May 15, 2009)

Torus34 said:


> ...The GSN model even has parallax correction -- something of a boon for those new to rangefinders. ...



The Canon QL-17 G-III and the unmarked G-II also have parallax correction and have a distinctly superior lens. They also have completely mechanical shutters that function without the battery.

BTW, the second generation QL-17 is almost identical to the 3rd generation "G-III" model. The largest external difference is that the G-III has a safety switch built into a cover over the PC terminal that disables the hot shoe when a cord is connected. This prevents the hot shoe from being connected to the flash's trigger circuit. Trigger circuits were rather high voltage (300+ volts) in those days an brushing your nose across a live hot shoe is more than just uncomfortable.

Another note on this class of meter. Battery drain is directly proportional to the amount of light that strikes the meter cell. If you keep a lens cap on it effectively turns the power off. The battery drain is reduced to such a low level that battery life is not significantly different that when the power is actually turned off with a switch. Still, it is _very very highly_ recommended that you never store these cameras for any length of time with a battery installed. If the battery leaks or expands it can damage the camera.


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## Sjixxxy (May 15, 2009)

Make sure to check it for fungus. I got one off eBay once that had a nice layer of it etched across the lens. Images from that one were quite underwhelming.


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## Sjixxxy (May 15, 2009)

usayit said:


> Light seals in these cameras also tend to get sticky over time.  100% of all Canonets I have ever seen needed to have these replaced.  They are easy to DIY.  You just have to find foam sheets somewhere which can be difficult to find.  My source is out of business (used to be cameraseals.com).  I found a couple sales on ebay...  Please post if you find another source.



I got my light baffle material from Micro-Tools. One of their sheets is enought to fix a lot of cameras. I bought some in 2003 and still have about 85% of it left. Comes inhandy though. I've used it to repair light leaks on a bunch of various old camera's that I own.


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## Gregoryniss (May 15, 2009)

I assume this is going to need the foam replaced? This is the one I won on ebay. I just ordered an "inter-slice" kit off of ebay for $10. seems to have good feedback. Any tips on how to get the original stuff off?


Also, is it possible to take the lens off the camera? can you take off just the front element (if there is fungus)? Thanks a bunch for all the help


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## usayit (May 15, 2009)

Sjixxxy said:


> I got my light baffle material from Micro-Tools. One of their sheets is enought to fix a lot of cameras. I bought some in 2003 and still have about 85% of it left. Comes inhandy though. I've used it to repair light leaks on a bunch of various old camera's that I own.



Thanks for the pointer.  Time to restock.


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## usayit (May 15, 2009)

Gregoryniss said:


> Any tips on how to get the original stuff off?



I used ol'fashion "elbow grease" and some bamboo skewers that were cut into whatever point I needed... I used them kinda like a chisel to scrap the goo off.  Once you see the camera film door, you'll know what needs to be done.  Pretty straight forward.  Just don't use too thick of a foam or else the latch will not hold.



> Also, is it possible to take the lens off the camera? can you take off just the front element (if there is fungus)? Thanks a bunch for all the help



I wouldn't recommend it.... unless you know how to realign the elements with the film plane.


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## Sjixxxy (May 15, 2009)

Gregoryniss said:


> Any tips on how to get the original stuff off?



Scrape the big chunks off with whatever. I think I finished up with some rubbing alcohol and a q-tip to remove whatever goo was left.


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## compur (May 15, 2009)

Torus34 said:


> For anyone looking for this general type of camera, the Yashica G series rigs are readily available at great prices.  A bit of fiddling with a home-made spring to adapt present batteries [same voltage] to fit and you're up and running.



You don't need an adapter for these cameras.  Just use one CR123 lithium
battery plus 2 LR44 batteries all arranged the same way.  If necessary, wind 
a thin strip of tape around the outside of the 2 button cells to keep them
from sliding around. Together they fit and provide 6 volts without need of 
springs, tubes, adapters, etc.


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## Gregoryniss (May 15, 2009)

usayit said:


> I used ol'fashion "elbow grease" and some bamboo skewers that were cut into whatever point I needed... I used them kinda like a chisel to scrap the goo off.  Once you see the camera film door, you'll know what needs to be done.  Pretty straight forward.  Just don't use too thick of a foam or else the latch will not hold.
> 
> I wouldn't recommend it.... unless you know how to realign the elements with the film plane.



oh okay. So if there was fungus (they said there isn't any..) would you recommend just taking it to my local photography shop?

thanks for all the responses guys! now it's gonna be a long wait.... ground shipping from Maryland to Oregon = :thumbdown:


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## usayit (May 15, 2009)

well.. If the seller said "no fungus".  Therefore fungus found on the lens would mean that there is reason to return the purchase.

You can also find a reputable camera repair for advise.  I for one trust "www.essexcamera.com"


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## randerson07 (May 18, 2009)

Gregoryniss said:


> Also, is it possible to take the lens off the camera? can you take off just the front element (if there is fungus)? Thanks a bunch for all the help



I got a used, but in fantastic shape, QL19 for less than $1 from a thrift store. But it had a large problem. The shutter was stuck shut. I got a quote from a local store to do the repair for about $150-200. For a $1 camera I figured that was too much. So I did some research on Rangefinderforum.com and decided to give it a go, if I broke the camera I was only out $1.

To take off the front element and get to the shutter, or in your case to clean the lens, I use a pair of needle nose pliers that come to a very small point. Once you have the camera in hand you will see why this small point is needed. You stretch the pliers out so that it sits just inside the filter thread, but right into the silver ring that holds the front cover in place. It should be very easy then to unscrew this ring and remove the cover, dont lose the small parts that go over the meter(not sure how it is on the QL17, but on the 19 theres a cover and a couple small pieces). Then you should be staring at the front element. Here is where I got ballsy and where you can really cause some damage.

To get the front element off, you really need a tool that is just wide enough to span the lens and fit snuggly into the two notches, sort of like a 2 inch wide flat head screw driver. I instead decided to use force, and one small screwdriver. I stuck my small flathead into one of the notches on an angle, and tapped it with the palm of my hand until the lens broke loose then took it off by hand.  If at anytime the screw driver came loose you can scratch the lens or damage the shutter mech, so I dont suggest this method, and do not want to be responsible for any damage you cause.

You now can clean the front element, front of the apeture blades, and front of the shutter. It wouldnt hurt since you have it open to clean off any residue on the blades, its a known problem in these cameras for them to gunk up and jam. I used some alchohol wipes for cleaning eye glasses that I get from  for-eyes everytime I get new glasses. It took me a total of 3 tries before my canonet was in reliable form, and its still tempermental in cold temps.

I love this camera and it goes just about everywhere with me, I dont have a lens cap for it, havent replaced the light seals, I use hearing aid batteries in it, and beat the crap out of it, but it takes some of the best pictures that I have ever taken
Canonet QL19 - a set on Flickr
Flickr: Search RyanNine's photostream

if you get your camera and you do need to take it apart and want some help let me know Ill take pics of mine as I disassemble it.


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