# How much better is D7100 over D5500 really?



## darkblue-x (Jul 26, 2017)

If anyone were to give me a critical analysis on the subject question.

To give some background, I am an amateur and feel like I have outgrown my D3300. 
I have used a D5500 before and liked it (at least over the d3x00 series)--but I wasn't aware of the functions on it at the time to make an educated comparison to the D7100 that I just picked up today.

At first glance the D7100 seems to have quite the different format to the D3300 and D5500 alike.

Could someone present an argument as to which one is the better camera (ei. more useful functions, ease of use, features and specs)...?

Kind regards,

Chris


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## goodguy (Jul 26, 2017)

D7100 Pro's
Most important a better 51 focus point system
Better made body
Weather sealed
Second command dial
In body focus motor
6fps or 7fps in crop mode vs 5 on D5500
100% optical coverage vs 95%
Bigger battery
Minimum focus sensitivity -2ev vs -1ev
Pentaprism vs Pentamirror

Main advantage of D5500
Swivel touch screen


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## benhasajeep (Jul 26, 2017)

goodguy said:


> D7100 Pro's
> Most important a better 51 focus point system
> Better made body
> Weather sealed
> ...



D7100 has faster shutter 1/8000, .94 viewfinder magnification (d5500 .82), D7100 has better screen by nearly 20% pixels, D5500 is touch screen though, D7200 up to 5 frames exposure bracketing vs. 3 on D5500, D5500 has higher frame rate in max video.

As mentioned above the D7100 has the focus motor in the body.  So it can use older AF lenses, and the new ones that still require body focusing motor.

The D7100 would be quicker to use for basic camera controls when changing settings (buttons and dials).  But for functions / changes that both cameras require you to use menu's the d5500 would be faster with the touch screen.  Of the 3 cameras you listed the D5500 is the newest design and scores just above the D7100 on DXO.   The D7100 scores slightly better than the D3300 by DXO.  This is sensor performance measurements.  For comparisons the D7200 scores the highest of any Nikon crop sensor camera by DXO.  Again for sensor perforance.

Congrats on the D7100.  It's a very good camera.


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## Derrel (Jul 26, 2017)

RE: In body focus motor, means that MANY AF and AF-D type Nikon-mount lenses will autofocus on the D7100. There were lenses made from the mid-1980's and onward in the AF and AF-D styles, and these lenses can be purchased at low cost comapred to newer, AF-S type lenses of the same, or similar specifications. SOme like the 70-300 ED are like, $75 used...an AF-S 70-300 VR is $275-$325 used...last week I saw an 80-200 f/2.8 one-ring ED-glass Nikon zoom for $295 in minty shape; a comparable 70-200 VR (first version) averages around $1,150 used...such cost savings exist in other lens categories as well...there were MANY AF and AF-D Nikkor lenses made, and MANY Tamron, Tokina, and other-brand lenses in AF and AF-D variations, and all of those NEED that in-body focusing motor for autofocus operation.

Three weeks ago, I bought a used Tokina AF 70-210mm f/4~5.6 lens for $29.95. Under thirty dollars, for a lens that will autofocus on any Nikon that has an in-body focusing motor system.


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## darkblue-x (Jul 26, 2017)

Derrel said:


> RE: In body focus motor, means that MANY AF and AF-D type Nikon-mount lenses will autofocus on the D7100. There were lenses made from the mid-1980's and onward in the AF and AF-D styles, and these lenses can be purchased at low cost comapred to newer, AF-S type lenses of the same, or similar specifications. SOme like the 70-300 ED are like, $75 used...an AF-S 70-300 VR is $275-$325 used...last week I saw an 80-200 f/2.8 one-ring ED-glass Nikon zoom for $295 in minty shape; a comparable 70-200 VR (first version) averages around $1,150 used...such cost savings exist in other lens categories as well...there were MANY AF and AF-D Nikkor lenses made, and MANY Tamron, Tokina, and other-brand lenses in AF and AF-D variations, and all of those NEED that in-body focusing motor for autofocus operation.
> 
> Three weeks ago, I bought a used Tokina AF 70-210mm f/4~5.6 lens for $29.95. Under thirty dollars, for a lens that will autofocus on any Nikon that has an in-body focusing motor system.


Someone told me about that too. A seasoned photographer, he had told me he always buys his camera body new, however he finds amazing deals on old lenses...
Come to think about it, he was using a D7100 as well when I had met him.

So I suppose I made the right choice...

I'm a bit overwhelmed however with all of these new things to learn. Not only am I just starting to learn lightroom, but I am having to learn a new camera completely. I had rented books from the library about photography but I don't know if my brain is capable of taking in anymore information at this juncture haha

/Edit: Thanks for all of the other answers as well, they were indeed very helpful for me to get that second opinion on my decision.


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## Derrel (Jul 26, 2017)

Don't worry too much about Lightoom....Ysarex has shown you a very thorough way to get a LOT out of a Nikon .NEF raw file..

The D7100 has a great sensor in it. You'll be fine. 

Having MORE control buttons and dials is actually easier than menu-diving and searching for things. You will do fine with the D7100.


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## darkblue-x (Jul 26, 2017)

Derrel said:


> Don't worry too much about Lightoom....Ysarex has shown you a very thorough way to get a LOT out of a Nikon .NEF raw file..
> 
> The D7100 has a great sensor in it. You'll be fine.
> 
> Having MORE control buttons and dials is actually easier than menu-diving and searching for things. You will do fine with the D7100.



I just uploaded the photo in question of the barn from Lightroom, turned to JPEG sent to Dropbox, received through Dropbox mobile and I have to say...the photo looks really different. The colours aren't coming out as nice. 
When I'm exporting the photo from Lightroom as JPEG, it gives me an option from 0-100 of the quality. Does it actually damage the photo to go higher? 

This is a bit off-topic, but do you know why I'm encountering seeing the photo being completely different?


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## Derrel (Jul 26, 2017)

Different web browsers and different devices can use different color profiles, and have different screen quality...for example, my Apple retina display smartphone has a GREAT screen; my super-inexpensive Android phone from ZTE has a horrible screen.

JPEG quality...*color* usually does not suffer too badly with high levels of JPEG compression, but I like higher-quality images when I export from Lightroom.

I have encountered color profile issues before with images that have been uploaded to the web, and which were not properly tagged with the right color profile for maximum final viewing quality.

Your problem of seeing the photo "differently" be caused by a number of issues. sRGB, Adobe RGB, various weird color profiles, different web browsers, different protocols used by web hosting services, etc.. I have no idea how you are shooting or editing (in what color space), nor what color profiles you are tagging your images with before uploading.


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## jaomul (Jul 27, 2017)

D7100 has ability to do high speed sync or whatever Nikon calls it with certain flash units, allowing flash at speeds up to 1/8000 sec ss. It also compatable with Nikon wireless lighting system


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## birdbonkers84 (Jul 27, 2017)

I used a D3300 and upgraded to a used D7100, it's such an improvement that once you get into it you'll be blown away. Having more focus points is awesome compared to the D3300. 


Sent from my iPhone using ThePhotoForum.com mobile app


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## fmw (Jul 27, 2017)

goodguy said:


> D7100 Pro's
> Most important a better 51 focus point system
> Better made body
> Weather sealed
> ...



The critical one in my view is the focusing motor.  It allows you to use the excellent and now affordable Nikon D lenses.  In my view, this one feature makes the lack of it in the 3000 and 5000 series cameras non starters.


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## goodguy (Jul 27, 2017)

jaomul said:


> D7100 has ability to do high speed sync or whatever Nikon calls it with certain flash units, allowing flash at speeds up to 1/8000 sec ss. It also compatable with Nikon wireless lighting system


OH yeah, HSS is SUPER important if you planning to do any portrait shoot outside


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## goodguy (Jul 27, 2017)

fmw said:


> goodguy said:
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> ...


No doubt in body focus motor is important but it depends what lenses you have, if you only get G lenses then it makes no difference, if you enjoy a D lens then its a MUST feature, me personally think the 51 AF system is the most important feature, to me AF is key to get the shot more important then anything else.


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## astroNikon (Jul 27, 2017)

I always emphasis body over the newest fangled $$$ lens.
Most of my lenses were AF-D lenses for a while as they were affordable to that I could get a wide range 18-35, 24-85, 80-200 and save thousands versus the newest comparable AF-S lenses.
The more advanced features of the better bodies, depending upon what you do, can be very helpful.

For instance, if you do
Landscape or architecturial I don't really see much of an advantage other than the control delay over mirror slap.  So not much difference between the D7100 and D5500.

If you do Sports, Bird in Flight or anything more high speed then the added AF points, faster overall response, better viewing, faster AF system is advantageous in many facets of the body itself.  D7100 wins for more ease of use once you understand how to use it.


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## fmw (Jul 27, 2017)

goodguy said:


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Different priorities.  I do just as well with manual focus.


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## goodguy (Jul 27, 2017)

fmw said:


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fmw said:


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Totally envious, my old eyes will not let me do any kind of manual focus unless in totally control manner when camera on tripod and subject not moving, my reliance on AF is total  thus is the importance I put in the best possible AF I can get and why I will stay away from mirrorless for pro work in the foreseeable future till mirrorless will be as good as DSLR


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## benhasajeep (Jul 27, 2017)

goodguy said:


> Totally envious, my old eyes will not let me do any kind of manual focus unless in totally control manner when camera on tripod and subject not moving, my reliance on AF is total  thus is the importance I put in the best possible AF I can get and why I will stay away from mirrorless for pro work in the foreseeable future till mirrorless will be as good as DSLR


Get a focusing loupe, or loupe hood that fits the monitor.   The ones made for movie use has diopters and eyecup.  So, no need for glasses either.

I'm trying to find a good one that I can use with my 24mm pc-e lens.  Hardest part is picking the one with a decent mount system.


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## fmw (Jul 27, 2017)

goodguy said:


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goodguy said:


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Manual focus was easier back when we had split image finders.  Even the digital cameras have decent manual focus aids.  Nikon has the little digital meter that you center.  Fuji has an effective contrast highlight system as well as a less effective digital split image.

For my purposes my mirrorless system is better than any DSLR made.  I don't do professional work any longer.  There is no need to haul around all that large and heavy gear.  The AF, by the way, is really effective and I use it most of the time.  But it isn't a deal breaker for me.  It is still a lot faster than focusing with a split image finder was back in the day and I got along fine with that for decades.  I sold my Nikon system and don't miss it at all.


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## Solarflare (Jul 28, 2017)

The D7000, D7100, D7200 are worlds above the D5x00 line.

The D7500 no longer, though, which IMHO was a very poor decision by Nikon.


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## darkblue-x (Jul 29, 2017)

astroNikon said:


> I always emphasis body over the newest fangled $$$ lens.
> Most of my lenses were AF-D lenses for a while as they were affordable to that I could get a wide range 18-35, 24-85, 80-200 and save thousands versus the newest comparable AF-S lenses.
> The more advanced features of the better bodies, depending upon what you do, can be very helpful.
> 
> ...


I don't actually find the AF fast...it's slow to show me the points...much slower than my D3300


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## goodguy (Jul 29, 2017)

darkblue-x said:


> astroNikon said:
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> > I always emphasis body over the newest fangled $$$ lens.
> ...


I own the D3300, used to own the D7100, the D7100 AF is better then the D3300 no doubt about it but the D3300 as long as you use the centre cross type point is plenty fast, still compared to the D7100 there is no contest here.


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## Designer (Jul 29, 2017)

darkblue-x said:


> Could someone present an argument as to which one is the better camera (ei. more useful functions, ease of use, features and specs)...?


Since you've already made the purchase, I guess you're looking for validation.  

In short, you went from an "entry level" camera to an "enthusiast level" camera.  Maybe it's not as easy to use as the D3300 or any of the D5xxx series cameras, but you've got lots more options and controls.  

Kind of the difference between driving an automatic transmission compact car to operating a modern agricultural tractor or a combine.


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## darkblue-x (Jul 29, 2017)

Designer said:


> darkblue-x said:
> 
> 
> > Could someone present an argument as to which one is the better camera (ei. more useful functions, ease of use, features and specs)...?
> ...


Validation/reassurance on my decision.
I had gotten some special feeling the time I held a D5500 (many months back)--Yet I have had a feeling of being unexcited holding the D7100.


I probably just have to give it time. I used to have a much different way to handle workflow:
Adventure, Shoot, View images on computer and write down the image numbers I like, Import to VSCO to then view on VSCO Mobile. And then I would edit my photos through my Cell Phone with VSCO...I was able to get creative and distort my picked photos to my pleasure.

Now I just started using Lightroom and now shoot in NEF only...viewing the images to choose them looks different in Lightroom.
Editing to decide which of my picks I will even use is different and it's difficult to figure out what I want to do and get the result out of the photograph that I want.
When I did a couple of my first edits in Lightroom, I exported the photos into a JPEG after the edit was done, to then get on my phone via Dropbox, and the images don't at all look the same on my phone as the final result in Lightroom.

Been kind of upsetting.

The way that I used to do it had a short ceiling of improvement though so I know in long term the workflow I'm doing now has much more potential for the future.


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## Designer (Jul 29, 2017)

darkblue-x said:


> When I did a couple of my first edits in Lightroom, I exported the photos into a JPEG after the edit was done, to then get on my phone via Dropbox, and the images don't at all look the same on my phone as the final result in Lightroom.


Don't expect the images to look the same on an iPhone and your desktop computer display.


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## Derrel (Jul 29, 2017)

Wait,wait,wait!!! STOP shooting NEF-only, and start shooting RAW + JPEG Fine, in say, 12 megapixel size JPEGS. The .NEF files will ***always** be full-sized, 24-megapixel, but you can select the Image Area (size) on the JPEGs.

If you want a faster workflow, then set the camera up RAW+JPEG, 12-megapixel, set in-camera sharpening to like a Plus-2 level, and AUTO Tone curve (contrast), and then pick a Nikon Picture Style from the options...Maybe not standard, but maybe...this way you'll have a sharpened straight out of camera .JPG image to look at, and with sharpoening swet to +2 or +3, you can immediately, easily see out of focus shots, and so on, blurry shots, etc.. 

How tyou use a modern digital camera depends on HOW you want to "use" the camera's pictures...if the camera is set up right, and allowed to do vingnetting rem,oval, auto-chromatic abeeration removal, automatic noise reduction,and so on. I will tell you this: beginning with the Exmore sensor and the Nikon D3x, Nikon's IN-camera JPEG engine, sharpening, and noise removal routines are VERY good...the High ISO NR is very good. very good.

I've shot the D3x in RAW+JPEG and custom-tweaked the JPEG profile to be very close to what I create after Lightroom processing my NEFS. The camera can now do very good work, but you need to allow them to do so! Use Matrix metering! Set AUTO on Dynamic Range Optimizer, and so on. But--there is no need to feel guilty about shooting a partial-JPEG workflow, especially if you want sRGB, SOOC JPEGS to see on a phone, or web browser, or to e-mail, OR to use to do slide-shows to select the best images in a rapid-fire kill-kil-kil-kill-KEEP-kill-kill-kill-KEEP type of culling process. Edit/cull the clunkers ruthlessly and fast.

Do not let forum people tell you "ONLY RAW is the best way to go." Because, no, for some people ishooting only in RAW mode is NOT the best way to shoot!


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## benhasajeep (Jul 29, 2017)

Derrel said:


> Wait,wait,wait!!! STOP shooting NEF-only, and start shooting RAW + JPEG Fine, in say, 12 megapixel size JPEGS. The .NEF files will ***always** be full-sized, 24-megapixel, but you can select the Image Area (size) on the JPEGs.
> 
> 
> Do not let forum people tell you "ONLY RAW is the best way to go." Because, no, for some people ishooting only in RAW mode is NOT the best way to shoot!



All my camera's no matter if dual card or single card.  Are set up to Raw + JPEG Fine.  I don't do much high speed shooting.  So, I rarely max out the buffer even on a basic camera like the D3300.  Probably the only time I did hit the buffer was testing the cameras when I first got them.  And maybe testing flash cards.


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## darkblue-x (Jul 29, 2017)

Designer said:


> darkblue-x said:
> 
> 
> > When I did a couple of my first edits in Lightroom, I exported the photos into a JPEG after the edit was done, to then get on my phone via Dropbox, and the images don't at all look the same on my phone as the final result in Lightroom.
> ...


There an issue to where the colors are different. Where it looks good on Lightroom laptop, it looks all messed up by color tints on my phone...And when I load it to Instagram and go back to view it from desktop it looks the same way, ruined by weird tints...


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## KmH (Jul 31, 2017)

What type of display does your desktop have? Twisted Nematic (TN), In-Plane Switching (IPS), Parallel Vertical Alignment (PVA)?
Is it the same type display that your phone has?
Are they both calibrated to the same ambient light falling on them each time you view photos?

Is the browser you use 'color aware'?
Color Management & Quality Output: Working with Color from Camera to Display to Print: (The Digital Imaging Masters Series)

How to Calibrate Your Monitor for Photography


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## astroNikon (Jul 31, 2017)

darkblue-x said:


> There an issue to where the colors are different. Where it looks good on Lightroom laptop, it looks all messed up by color tints on my phone...And when I load it to Instagram and go back to view it from desktop it looks the same way, ruined by weird tints...



If I recall correctly there are two available Color Spaces in the camera, and in Lightroom (there may be more than 2 in LR).

But the 2 main ones are:
sRGB, and
Adobe RGB

for general web use, etc use "sRGB".
otherwise your color tints, etc may look weird on different devices.


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## benhasajeep (Jul 31, 2017)

I agree on checking what the color spaces are on each device.  If you can check them that is.


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## darkblue-x (Jul 31, 2017)

KmH said:


> What type of display does your desktop have? Twisted Nematic (TN), In-Plane Switching (IPS), Parallel Vertical Alignment (PVA)?
> Is it the same type display that your phone has?
> Are they both calibrated to the same ambient light falling on them each time you view photos?
> 
> ...


IPS Monitor

I'll try and find which my phone is, but I believe it's just the photo that becomes different (either that or my laptop is the one that is different).

I extract as sRGB only so, I'm not sure if I should change that...


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## KmH (Aug 1, 2017)

No. It's not just your photo that becomes different.
It's because the photo is displayed on different devices.
They have different operating systems and different color management setting/strategies.
Even if both are IPS displays each likely uses a different type of back light.

You might get your phone and your display close to being the same, but that's the best you can hope for.
As far as looking at your photos on other devices, the devices of others, the variety of apps and browsers - there is no way to have them all the same.


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## dunfly (Aug 3, 2017)

I have been trying to convince myself to upgrade from my 5 series to a 7 series or even the D500 for a while.  I have looked in depth at all the great features I would get.  Then, I looked at the images I have been taking, the type of photography I do and the settings I use.  In my situation, close to 99% of what I shoot would never need the advanced features, plus my 5 series is lighter (for travel), smaller and has an articulating screen.  I guess what I am saying is to take a critical look at how you are using the camera and then see if you will actually be using the additional features.  In my case, the added features of the 7 series of D500 do not outweigh the size and articulating screen of the 5 series.


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