# My Post Processing Workflow



## benjikan (Mar 9, 2007)

If at all interested in making your images "Pop" more like 4x5 or 6x7 film, you may wish to look at one of my suggested work flow methods:

http://pentaxlife.com/benjamin-kanarek-post-processing-method


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## The_Traveler (Mar 9, 2007)

Thanks for this workflow idea.
I don't have a glamour shot available so I tried it with a travel shot.
The difference is clear even on these. Increased contrast and what seems like deeper color.
I used the minimum of all your suggested ranges.

BTW, this was shot with the Nikkor 18-200 VR zoom


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## usayit (Mar 9, 2007)

Is there any particular reason the workflow uses JPG?  I prefer TIFF.

Thanks for the workflow tip.  Definitely one to add to my journal...


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## Aquarium Dreams (Mar 9, 2007)

Wow.  This is like getting my first pair of glasses.  I had no idea how fuzzy everything looked before.


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## benjikan (Mar 9, 2007)

usayit said:


> Is there any particular reason the workflow uses JPG?  I prefer TIFF.
> 
> Thanks for the workflow tip.  Definitely one to add to my journal...



The illustration shown was done by someone else trying out my workflow and illustrating it on Pentax Life.  I never work in JPEG only PSD or TIFF.  Of course by all means.


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## The_Traveler (Mar 10, 2007)

benjikan said:


> If at all interested in making your images "Pop" more like 4x5 or 6x7 film, you may wish to look at one of my suggested work flow methods:
> 
> http://pentaxlife.com/benjamin-kanarek-post-processing-method



Your sharpening workflow  works wonders.
Can you point me to any source of info about 'why' this is working and 
what is happening when we do this process? 

Are there any guidelines for moderating the parameters for different gkinds of images?

It seems not to be the edge sharpening we usually think of.


Thanks in advance,

L


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## The_Traveler (Mar 10, 2007)

I just extracted the details to tape on my wall and here they are

*Benjamin Kanarek sharpening workflow*

_On unsharpened image, duplicate background_

*Step 1 - *
  Unsharp Mask (USM) filter :
  Amount: from 240 to 330 percent
Radius: 0.3 pixels
Threshold: 0 level

*Step 2 **- 
*
  Unsharp Mask 
  Amount from 10 to 15 percent 
  Radius from 40 to 60 pixels 
  Threshold still at 0 level .

*Step 3**- 
*
  Duplicate altered layer 
  To emphasize blacks. desaturate new layer.
  To emphasize colors and shadows  leave as is


*Step 4*
  Apply soft light blending mode to the new layer. 
  Reduce opacity to 50 - 80 percent


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## EBphotography (Mar 10, 2007)

Excellent excellent guide, and thanks also to The Traveler for extracting the key points. Will definitely bookmark this.


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## Garbz (Mar 10, 2007)

This is an interesting method of sharpening, and an even more interesting method of controlling colour and contrast. Up until now I have always been using curves to bump contrast when needed, and I have often used the high-pass method of sharpening. 

It is interesting how many different ways there are to do the same thing yet achieve varied affects. Thanks for the method it works a treat with some pictures.


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## burtharrris (Mar 11, 2007)

Benjamin, call me naive but how did you figure that out?  Trial and error, or did you know exactly what to do?  Thanks!


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## benjikan (Mar 12, 2007)

burtharrris said:


> Benjamin, call me naive but how did you figure that out?  Trial and error, or did you know exactly what to do?  Thanks!



I basically found a way to replicate film by trial and error and in doing so realised that layering or sandwiching my images using either a B&W grey scale enhancement or a colour based shadow highlight saturation enhancement, would give me a Kodakchrome look or a mixed B&W and Colour slide look.  Just did another shoot employing the later and am pleased with the results.


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## benjikan (Mar 12, 2007)

usayit said:


> Is there any particular reason the workflow uses JPG?  I prefer TIFF.
> 
> Thanks for the workflow tip.  Definitely one to add to my journal...



They have corrected my method at Pentax Life. It is now correct.  I.E.  Shooting in Raw or JPEG and working in PSD or TIFF...


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## Hair Bear (Mar 13, 2007)

benjikan, do you work in RGB Tiffs?

I traditionally think of Tiffs as CMYK in print

And you don't use JPEG because of the way it compresses the image? Hence the uncompressed tiff?


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## Hair Bear (Mar 13, 2007)

I just tried that sharpening on an image and I like it, although its not to kind for skin imperfections on the lady in question!

I duped the layer, used the sharpening and then used the sharpened image for just the eyes, a little part of the nose and the lips.

Thanks


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## burtharrris (Mar 13, 2007)

Heres a quick try, the effects were applied to the image on the left.  The right was a straight digital file with no manipulation.  Definitely a cool method!


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## benjikan (Mar 14, 2007)

Hair Bear said:


> benjikan, do you work in RGB Tiffs?
> 
> I traditionally think of Tiffs as CMYK in print
> 
> And you don't use JPEG because of the way it compresses the image? Hence the uncompressed tiff?



I generally save in PSD as of late.  No degradation what so ever.


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## Johnboy2978 (Mar 14, 2007)

that's a nice effect for the right image.  I saved it as an action for future use.  Thanks for sharing.


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## Cristy (Mar 16, 2007)

Thank you - this process has really improved many of my pictures! I have also saved it as an action in PS.


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## guitarmy (Mar 16, 2007)

Quick question:

Would this be your last step in the PP workflow? Do you still need to apply curves/levels adjustments, or is this basically doing the same thing in a different fashion?


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## usayit (Mar 16, 2007)

I usually recommend sharpening as the last step before print.  The size of the print and viewing distance will determine the amount of shapening required.  I've been playing around with my workflow to include the technique above... but I do the duplicate layer step before the sharpening.

One thing I picked up from one of my professors in college is to localize the unsharpen mask to a smaller area for a more subtle effect.  In this case, we want to focus on edges:

) Create a new channel
) Copy the entire photo to the new channel ( Select all , Copy , Paste )
) Apply Filter->Stylize->Find edges
) Adjust Levels on the channel.  The black area of the photo will be the areas where unsharpen mask filter will be applied.
) Select -> Load selection -> Alpha 1 (inverse selection if necessary - select edges)
) Apply unsharp mask -> .2 at 500% (experiment with these values)
) Apply unsharp mask -> .8 at 200%
) Deselect


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## The_Traveler (Mar 16, 2007)

I have been trying the unsharpen technique descibed the the OP and, if you intend to reduce the image for posting on the web, the results are much better when this 'surface sharpening' is done on the full-size image before  reduction in size.


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## benjikan (Mar 16, 2007)

Hi Everyone;

Get your pen and checkbook and write in the number one with six zero's after it.  Sign the check and send it to me via Express Mail. You won't believe the effect that will have on you and probably your photos...

But seriously folks.  Another approach I use and am doing on the "Diva" story is this..

When the Raw image has been imported in to Camera Raw, I Sharpen at between 25-30 on the slider and 50 on Color Noise Reduction, Luminance Smoothing at Zero. Click OK.

When in Photoshop, go to Layers and make a Duplicate Layer.  Now Desaturate the image.  Go to the Layers Menu and click on Soft Light.  Now, because you didn't use the Contrast Unsharp move, i.e. 10-15 percent at 40-60 pixels you can push the Opacity and Fill sliders much harder.  60 to 90 percent.  When back in PS you can now push up your overall Saturation if so desired by +5 to +10 to compensate in the loss of Saturation produced by adding the B&W layer.  I don't, I like that Desaturated look.  It's a matter of taste..

Ben


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