# On Restoring...



## Mitica100

I thought I'd start a thread with advice from various posters on how to restore older cameras. In general I'd like to keep these advices to only the cosmetic restoration, as in covering/recovering the leatherette, restoring the shine on metal parts and so on.

Anyone with a sensible idea is welcome to post here but please, only true and tried methods.


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## Mitica100

Many a camera suffer from leather covering deterioration. It usually becomes brittle with age and shatters when handled. Best bet is to find a recovering kit from http://www.cameraleather.com but if they don't carry that kit, you can also make the template for your particular camera.

You'll need one blank sheet of VH grain (cheapest) from the above online store. It's got a sticky side which will adhere to the camera body, once cut and placed on it. Curing time is about 12-24 hours. You'll also need a roll of blue painter's tape (fancier masking tape), a few toothpicks, a very sharp Exacto knife and a set of hole punchers of various diameters for putting holes in the right places on the new leatherette, if needed.

The whole operation needs to be done in a well lit area.




 
Lay the tape over th entire area to be covered. Best is to cover it in patches, little by little and to press down around the edges with a toothpick:




Go around every straight or curved edge and push down firmly. If there is a need for small holes to allow for various windows (like the film counter), then cover them wit tape and press down with your fingers to make an impression. This will help us later in determining the correct placement of the hole punchers.​ 




After the entire area is covered, cut the tape around the edges, very careful so you don't slip and mar the finish. Lift tape and place on top of the replacement leatherette. Press down firmly for a good contact.​ 




Cut the leatherette part with a sharp Exacto or small scissor and then punch the holes with the right diameter hole punchers (you can find a set at your local hardware store like Home Depot or Lowe's). Always place the leatherette on a piece of hard wood or plastic when punching the holes.​ 
Now lift the tape and set it aside in case you need to make another replacement. Lift the white adhesive protector from the other side of the leatherette and expose the adhesive. Place it very carefully onto the piece to be recovered and press down all around, more so at corners and around the holes.​ 




Finished product!​

Also, for cleaning a dirty leatherette I use Windex (Ammonia glass cleaner in the US) on a piece of soft cotton. Wipe it gently and lift as much dirt as you can. After drying you can then use regular shoe polish to restore the leatherette to its initial lustre. Use the non smelly kind of shoe polish, if you can and polish it with a soft brush after drying for 10 minutes.​


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## terri

Great stuff, Dimitri. :thumbup: Thank you for starting this! I'll stick this thread.


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## Mitica100

I have bought so many cameras that came to me in pretty bad shape, mainly from the cosmetic point of view. However, I would see once in a while a camera that either was left out in the rain, in the sink, spilled water over it or whatever else could do water damage to a lens. The so called 'incurable' white rings around the edges of the lens (not the 'Schneideritis', you LF users know what that is) can't be removed without the following trick:

Normally, the water is pretty hard, that is has minerals in it, which get deposited when the water evaporates. That will eventually leave a white residue on the lens that won't come off with the regular lens cleaners. I am using a scale destroying liquid like CLR (in the US) which attacks the calcium deposits (vinegar works too but slower). I apply a few drops on a cotton swab and gently rub the lens in concentric circles, for about 15-30 seconds. Immediately after that I wipe it off dry and wipe the lens again with a moist cotton swab dipped in distilled water or alcohol. A gentle 5-10 second cleaning and then wipe off the liquid with a microfiber cloth. You should have now a spotless lens. It really works, folks! 

And now for the small print:

*Word of caution, this method is only for restoring old lenses to their original look, assuming that they are on cameras that are only for display.*


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## Mitica100

A true and tried method for removing old, brittle leatherette from camera bodies:

You will need a well aired area to work in, with strong light. For tools, you will need a small brush, a bamboo chopstick with a thin, sharpened flat tip (cut it flat with a sharp knife), a few toothpicks. Also, you will need a jar of paint stripping gel and a flask of Acetone from your local hardware store. Add another couple of regular chopsticks (you can pilfer a few during your next visit to a Chinese restaurant), cotton swabs and lots of paper towels.

Lay a few papertowels on the working surface, place the camera on two regular chopsticks, with the stripping side up. Now apply some of the paint stripping gel with the brush, avoiding any metal parts (go near the rims but don't touch them with the gel, leaving about 1-2mm between the end of the stripping gel and any metal part like a rim, a screw, a lens mount and so on). Leave the gel there for 15-30 minutes or until the leatherette starts bubbling and appears soft to the touch. Now go with the flat tipped chopstick (acting like a little spatula) and lift the softened leatherette, little by little, wiping off the mess onto a paper towel. Repeat until the entire surface is pretty clean. Now get some cotton swabs imbibed in Acetone and clean the residues left behind, taking precautions so you don't touch any plastic parts. Repeat the cleaning with Acetone until the surface is clean. Let dry overnight. Replace the leatherette in the fashion described above.


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## Mitica100

Several types of mirrors can be purchased here:

http://scientificsonline.com

Search for the keyword 'mirror' and voilà!


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## Mitica100

To revive a dim rangefinder (usually a beamsplitter) the fastest, dirtiest and cheapest way is to buy some mirror finish Window Film available at any auto stores. If you search on the net you can also obtain free samples. Cut a little piece of the size you need and make a weak solution of dishwashing liquid and water, apply to one side and the place the little piece of mirrorized film onto the beamsplitter. That should do the trick.

_Also, see below..._


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## Mitica100

This is somewhat of a crazy method but it works! Some of the older lens makers have used heavy duty oil grease for the focusing ring. The only problem is that the grease degrades (hardens) in time. Many lenses are diseased with a stuck or sticky focusing ring due to the hardening of that lubricant. The obvious way is to take the lens apart and clean the focusing gears, applying a little new (silicone based) grease.

However...  The hardened grease can be brought to life by purely heating it. So, if you have an oven, you have the tools to do it. Turn the oven to about 150-200 degrees Fahrenheit, place the lens on a ceramic dish and put it inside the oven, leaving the oven door slightly ajar. Check the lens after 10 minutes, if focus ring is still stuck or sluggish, place the lens back in the oven for another 10 minutes. Repeat until focusing ring becomes free.

If you're afraid of this method (and I don't blame you, it does seem radical), then place the lens in a couple of heavy duty Ziploc bags, squeezing as much air out as possible. Have a pan with hot water nearby and start dunking the lens in that hot water, a few minutes at a time until the focusing ring is freed.

It only sounds bad, it does not affect the lens per se. However, due to some inherent defects in older lenses, you could eventually crack one of the elements. Again, this method is for restoration only (looks, not function) and should not be construed as a viable method for the more modern and expensive lenses. For that, there are plenty if lens repairmen around.


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## Mitica100

Thanks to Paul Ron, we have a website now for replacement bellows (in the US):

http://www2.hawaii.edu/~mkapono/bellows.htm

Also, thanks to Steph, we have another bellow replacement site (in the UK):

http://www.camerabellows.com/Replacement.html

Thank you both!


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## wordsmithereens

Can anyone recommend a reputable company (preferably in the US or Canada) to restore an old camera?

I have an old Leica IIIg RF that's in basically decent working condition but needs to be stripped down and detailed.

Thanks!

~wordsmithereens~


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## Mitica100

wordsmithereens said:


> Can anyone recommend a reputable company (preferably in the US or Canada) to restore an old camera?
> 
> I have an old Leica IIIg RF that's in basically decent working condition but needs to be stripped down and detailed.
> 
> Thanks!
> 
> ~wordsmithereens~


 
You can do it by yourself, armed with a replacement kit from http://www.cameraleather.com, a bottle of paint stripping gel, an exacto knife, cotton swabs, paper towels, alcohol (not for consumption! )  and some patience.

If you don't trust yourself, there's always help at:

http://www.tamarkin.com/catalog/service/rental.html in the US and

http://www.kamera-service.info/pages/leica_englishpag.html in the Netherlands.


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## Mitica100

Oh, BTW, http://www.cameraleather.com will replace the leatherette for you also.


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## Alpha

Whenever I grab an old camera, I always start by cleaning any exposed metal or plastic surfaces with a stack of q-tips and a bottle of rubbing alcohol. Works wonders to get rid of old grime, dirt, stains, etc.


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## Alpha

I've posted this before a long time ago:

Stiff mechanical parts (plastic or metal) can be restored with DeoxIT Faderlube. It's a solvent lubricant. Basically if you spray it on something, it acts as a solvent to dissolve away junk, and leaves behind a buttery smooth layer of lubrication. The company also makes a number of other special-application lubricants and solvents that are worth their weight in gold. The Faderlube is the most multi-purpose though. It's just amazing stuff. It's completely safe (designed for, in fact) metal and plastic-conductive contacts, so if you need to clean a battery housing or something, then it work work a treat.

http://store.caig.com/s.nl/sc.2/category.293/.f

You can order it online. It's also available across the U.S. at Guitar Center. May also be available at Sam Ash.


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## Mitica100

A quick fix solution for any rangefinder camera with a very dim RF window. It comes via Rick Oleson's website, a trove of restoring tips:

http://rick_oleson.tripod.com/index-165.html

Wow! What a simple and efficient solution! Thank you Mr. Oleson!!!:hail:


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## pkrpkr

Especially for the old bellows cameras with sticky shutters: screw off the shutter and the lenses and rinse the remaining shutter assembly in gasoline. Just shortly because the alcohol in the gasoline is aggressive. For lubrication I use teflon spray, but just a tiny bit - don't let it get on the shutter leaves, glass or diaphragm iris! Here is a host of repair sites


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## Mitica100

pkrpkr said:


> Especially for the old bellows cameras with sticky shutters: screw off the shutter and the lenses and rinse the remaining shutter assembly in gasoline. Just shortly because the alcohol in the gasoline is aggressive. For lubrication I use teflon spray, but just a tiny bit - don't let it get on the shutter leaves, glass or diaphragm iris! Here is a host of repair sites



Never use gasoline, it leaves a residue. Use Ronsonol or Naphta. Also, don't lubricate the shutter mechanism, it is designed to work without oil. If you must though, use NyOil, specially designed for the fine mechanisms. 

For removing the dullness of the metal bodies of cameras, use NEVRDULL from your local hardware store. They are cotton swabs/patches with a chemical on them which will restore the metal on your cam. If it gets on the leatherette it will leave a white-ish residue, easily removed with some Windex.


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## reg

Mitica100 said:


> Never use gasoline, it leaves a residue. Use Ronsonol or Naphta. Also, don't lubricate the shutter mechanism, it is designed to work without oil. If you must though, use NyOil, specially designed for the fine mechanisms.
> 
> For removing the dullness of the metal bodies of cameras, use NEVRDULL from your local hardware store. They are cotton swabs/patches with a chemical on them which will restore the metal on your cam. If it gets on the leatherette it will leave a white-ish residue, easily removed with some Windex.



Down to a science!!


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## Mitica100

A good resource page on camera repair:

CLICK


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## RichL

Tip from the cameraleather site. 

Once you have everything clean and set to go brush on a layer of alcohol hand sanitizer, the type without moisturizers (like the original Purell).  This will allow you to position the leather exactly where it is needed without having to worry about a 'whoops'.  I have used it successfully several times.  I let it sit for a day or two before handling it.

There are many different types out there so do test whatever you purchase to make sure it works for you.


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## Evansshoots

Not sure where this should go, so I've stuck it in a couple of places...

I have a selection of old M42 lenses that really need cleaning out inside. Most are not valuable, and I know some people dismantle their own lenses for cleaning.
If anyone knows how to dismantle any of these lenses (below) please let me know. Alternatively, if you know of a site that may know, please post a link!
Pentacon 200 mm f4
Pentax Super-Takumar 55mm f1.8
Carl Zeiss Jena Sonnar 135mm f4
ausJena Flektogon 35mm f2.8
Meyer-Optik Orestor 100mm f2.8
Thanks very much!
Dom

I have done some restoring of older cameras before (including my favourite: an Ihagee bellows).

As far as leather camera cases are concerned, I have a few suggestions. A lot of older cameras came supplied with their own purpose-built leather case, which you naturally want to keep and use. Often the stitching has gone. Whilst you can use a thick linen thread through the same holes (always use the old holes if you can), I would reccomend using thick, high-quality elastic thread. This means the case can take far more abusewithout breaking. Also, once you've polished over the whole thing, the thick elasitc looks much like the original thread did.


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## Agnessa

good tipps, thanks


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## deeslexia

Different colour leather coverings are available from bookbinding companies .


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## minicoop1985

I mentioned this in the thread for my Hasselblad 1600f. I'm posting this here in case anyone runs into a Kodak Ektar 80mm f2.8 lens with a sticky focus ring. Fairly easy little restoration, and something I could actually write up.



> Basically, there's three little screws in the mounting ring that have to  be slightly undone (there is one that sticks out-leave that one be as  it's for the mount, not for the retaining ring), then a retaining ring  comes out. Before doing that, definitely spin the focus to as close as  possible and take note of how far the aperture ring is from the focus  ring-that will be important later. After the retaining ring comes out,  the glass and aperture unscrew in one piece (it's sealed, so there's  ZERO dust in there-MINTY fresh) and the focus ring and mount are left. I  took a rag, soaked it in lighter fluid, put out the resulting fire,  then cleaned out all the old sludge in the threads on both parts that  was, at one point, lubrication, then re-lubricated it with some of my  favorite gun lube (Breakfree CLP) and a Q-tip. It's a higher viscosity  than most, but it's not grease, and it stood up to guns firing and being  absolutely beaten on in all kinds of weather conditions without  splattering all over when I had them, so I figured it was the right  thing to use. Anyway, I put the focus ring to its closest setting, then  repeatedly thread the aperture/glass assembly in (CAREFULLY to avoid  stripping) until I got it right. After that, the retaining ring has a  finger (for lack of a better word) that has to sit in the glass/aperture  assembly to keep it aligned. There are also three little indents in the  side of the ring for the screws. The trick is to line the the  glass/aperture up, then drop the retaining ring on without pressing it  in completely, take a moment to finely align the retaining ring, THEN  press it in and screw it in place. After all of that, the focus is incredibly smooth.


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## dxqcanada

As I refurb my cameras I have been taking pictures and notes.
Using MS Word 2013 I create PDF docs.

One note that I picked up recently ... if you have any 3.5" floppy disks, rip them apart to get the spring as I can be used to replace those tiny springs in those old shutters and release mechanisms.


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## dxqcanada

Tools that I have:

Spanner wrench sets
Rubber lens ring tool set
Lens filter ring vise
Screw drivers ... small slotted
Tweezers 00
Angled tweezers
Retaining ring pliers
Q-tips ... lots of them
Soldering iron
Silver solder
Blower bulb
Spring hook/lifter tool
Various leatherette
Thin felt sheets
Thin foam sheets
Shutter curtain material
Dental chisel
Needle files
Small pliers
Syringes and needles
Dremel
Micro drill bits
Grinding wheel
Thick elastic band
Very sharp knife/blade

Rosonol
Acetone
Ammonia
CLR
Super Lube
Watch oil
Pliobond
J-B weld
Acrylic paint pen
Residual oil remover
Isopropol alcohol

Broken cameras for parts

Tools that I need:

Flexi clamps for those rangefinder windows
Liquid electrical tape for patching holes in bellows/shutters
Lid opener


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## minicoop1985

That list is going to become incredibly helpful.


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## dxqcanada

I want to start a discussion about seals ... and not the animal type.
Material ... looking at the original material on many cameras it appears to be the open cell type ... but finding it for purchase is not exactly the easiest thing.
Most often I see vendors selling closed cell Neoprene type foam, which I think is too dense.
Any feedback is appreciated.


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## john.margetts

Too dense for what? If it still seals, it is fine.

Sent from my 8070 using Tapatalk


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## espresso2x

Maybe we want the stuff the does or doesn't have a memory; i've forgotten


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## compur

I use black "Darice Foamies" sheets sold in craft stores. I have no idea if it is open or closed cell but it works fine for camera seals.

I found some in a dollar store a while back and bought enough to last me a long, long time but it's pretty cheap anyway. Darice makes it with and without an adhesive back. I usually use non-adhesive.

I cut it with a circular knife & steel rule and use G-S Hypo Fabric Cement (with needle point applicator) for adhesive in film door grooves, etc.


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## dxqcanada

There is the issue of compression.
I think the closed cell foam requires more pressure on the back ... possibly warping its shape ?
... or does if used it needs to be really thin, 1mm ?
Most generic foam sheets that I have seen is closed cell dense with small pockets ... not easily compressed.
I think people like Jon Goodman don't use that type of material


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## compur

All I know is the the stuff I use keeps the dark in and the light out.


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## star camera company

I’d add to that mega list a pair of good magnifying glasses.   Makes those tiny parts BIGGER


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## Mitica100

A great site for camera restoration.


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## dxqcanada

I like Mike !!
I love his disclaimers.


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## Heidi Rosser

Hi, I have an old Graflex missing it’s ground glass. I know this will be extremely difficult to replace.
Does anyone have any alternative suggestions? 
I’ve read a few threads in other places that talk about Perspex or coated glass.


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## IanG

Hi Heidi, I make ground glass screens onquite  a regular basis for all sorts of cameras from MF to 15"x12" or larger, I typically make over a hundred every year.

The original Graflex ground glass was always quite coarse and dim, a new one can add approx 2+ stops in brightness.

Ian


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## dxqcanada

For those wanting to actually repair cameras, I suggest: Learn Camera Repair: Home
... and they have a FB page


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## vin88

use sadle soap on the leather.  vin


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## dxqcanada

For those that picked up a cheap photosensor audio device (photoplug or vmfoto) and find reading the output a little kludgy ... and are not afraid of a bit of electronics ... I found reusing some of the components with an Oscilloscope a solution (you can get for less than $50).
I got a Time machine


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