# How do you all feel about this for first time darkroom user



## jacknife (Jun 16, 2011)

Arista EDU Ultra VC RC Glossy 5x7/250 Sheets - Model# 18556 
Arista Private Reserve VC RC Semi-Matte/Pearl
11x14/25 Sheets - Model# 401112 Ilford Multigrade MGIV RC Deluxe D25M 8x10/25 sheets Satin - Model# 772054 Ilford Ilfotec DD-X Film Developer 1 Liter to make 5 Liters - Model# 1921599 Ethol LPD Liquid Paper Developer 1 Quart - Model# 121639 Ilford Rapid Fixer 1 liter - Model# 1984262 Kodak Photo Flo 200 16 oz. - Model# 1464510 Kodak Indicator Stop Bath 16 oz. - Model# 1464247 
Would this be enough chemicals to develop the majority of the paper purchased?
Any thoughts or comments would be much appreciated!


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## jacknife (Jun 16, 2011)

Any help would be awesome, I'd like to get this ordered soon


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## Derrel (Jun 16, 2011)

I think you need more FIXER!!!! You do not have nearly enough fixer to develop even half of the paper!!! Fixer is absolutely critical. Critical!

And, I would buy a couple of $6.59 packets of powdered Kodak Dektol paper developer. You simply do not have enough paper developer to develop 25 sheets of 11x14 paper. Shipping is more affordable on powdered developer than on pre-mixed liquid developer, which weighs a lot. Developer is easy to mix up from powder. Also, I think I would buy one bottle of Kodak HC-110 film developer concentrate.

So, more fixer, more paper developer, and more film developer.


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## ann (Jun 16, 2011)

To build on Derrel"s thoughts, I would second the HC110 and use it as a one shot developer.

you have enough photo flo to last years. LPN is more expensive but better (inho) used with distilled water. You only need a drop or so in a gallon of distilled water.

Look for LPD in a can, as it more cost effective than the liquid. One can will mix one gallon of solution. use the ratio of 1:4

As a beginner, you might want to stick with one paper, one size.  I recommend to my students that they use 8x10 glossy, as the high shine will show ever flaw which is a good learning lesson, it is also easier to learn to burn and dodge with that size paper. Printing larger and smaller call for different skill sets.


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## jacknife (Jun 17, 2011)

What fixer do you all suggest? Something like Kodafix? How much should I get?


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## ann (Jun 17, 2011)

We use Ilford fixer in my classes. 1 liter should get you off to a good start.

The fixing times aren't as long for Ilford as Kodak"s.  

Check the ratio for film vs paper types.  Also, don't use the fixer as a one shot deal as it can be used many times (read film here) . Mix up the proper ratio, and keep in it's own container, do not put back into the stock bottle.
Some hypo check may work, as it can help you know when the fixer is getting "old" (too much silver).
With prints and archival printing, we count paper size and use two fixer bath's, switching them.

Check Ilford's website for specifics. They have some nice pdf files for downloading.


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## chioque (Jun 18, 2011)

I think 1L of Ilford Rapid fixer for a start is more than enough. I would take the 200ml stock and mix it 1+9 to get 2L working solution. That will get you quite a few 8x10 prints for a while.

I also noticed you choose DDX, it's a wonderful developer and I do like it a lot. But it's expensive. Why don't you have a look at Kodak Xtol, which for me a wonderful developer with quite similar character as DD-X but much cheaper. I also like Rodinal whenever I want to go for the gritty grainy look. 

Whilst you're at it why don't you also order some container/bottles to put the working chemicals in. Or you could also use plastic/ glass bottles you have around the house. And do label them clearly.


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