# I can haz job now???



## Stradawhovious

Some of you know me (well, know me "virtually") and some of you don't.  Either way, here is a short back story.

Been interested in photography all my life.  Mostly only the technical aspect of it as opposed to the art of it, but still interested.  I've been a member of this forum (with on-and-off activity) for a few years now and have learned a bunch.  Lots and lots.  I have tens of thousands of clicks on the D7000, tens of thousands before that on the D3000 and have slowly learned enough to be dangerous.

Am I throwing my hat in the ring as a pro?  Hell no.  I'm nowhere near that level.  I have a different goal in mind, and I hope that the good folks of this forum (and the not so good ones too) will help me along with it.

Recently I lost my dog Hank.  Hank was 11, lived a full life, and was a fantastic pup.  It was only after he passed that I realized I didn't have any REALLY GOOD photographs of him.  Sure, I had some snapshots, I had some of him posing for test lighting... but nothing I would consider REALLY GOOD.

That's not going to happen with my new dog.  Nope, my hard drives will overflow with professional quality photographs of that dog if it kills me in the process.

Here's what I'd like to do.  I've spend the last few years collecting gear.  I have some lighting, I (now) have some decent glass, and I'm considering converting my garage into a part time studio.  I would really like to help myself and my friends get professional quality images of their dogs (no cats or people, I hate them both equally)... and I have no shortage of friends with dogs who would gladly drink beer with me whilst I record the likeness of their pup.

I don't think I'm that far off.  I need some more gear such as backgrounds, maybe another strobe or two... I need a bit more practice with lighting, but I have the basic concept down, and I need a bit of practice in photoshop for post processing.  I probably need a bit of advice on trying to get dogs to show up on film, well, because dogs.  I've gone through the phase where I thought I could make money with my hobby, but I learned, and currently know better.  This isn't about the money.

First and foremost  the reason I posted this in the aspiring pros section is that I aspire to produce professional quality images on a regular basis.  I don't need to get paid for this (if it happens, it happens, I know how contentious of a point payment is here), I just need to have the knowledge and skill to do it.

Here's what I was ask from the forum. 

#1. any tips on stocking a part time "studio" would be lovely.  Right now I have a couple of strobes, a large handful of speedlights, some reflectors, a couple of backgrounds and other assorted stands etc.  I'm looking into building a rig to hold muslin backdrops as well.  That should all be done pretty soon.  I'm also planning on building a fold away riser.. maybe 4'x8'x20" so I can get to "dog" level without laying on the ground. 

#2. over the next several months I would ask that anything I post in this "Aspiring Pros" forum gets criticized as if I were a professional, and make sure you pick all the nits.  ALL OF THEM.  I'm tired of producing mediocre images.  I've shot a few keepers, but it's time to buckle down and stop playing grabass with this hobby.  I will certainly remind folks of this desire any time I post photos for critique.

I appreciate the knowledge of those of you willing to share it.


----------



## Designer

How tall garage ceiling?  Usually home studios suffer from a lack of height for tall light stands.

Are you planning to put the cars back in come autumn?  So no photographs in the winter? 

Make a sloping ramp up to the stage so the doggies can walk up.

I'd recommend paper backdrop if you can swing it.  Get a light/medium gray if only one color, so you can make it nearly any color from white to black or gel the backlight to pink if you want.

Bucket of dog treats.

Clickers, bells, whistles.

Print up some poster-size shots to frame up and hang where people will see them.

Make up some business cards with a dog portrait on it.  Be sure to name your price up front. (Free?)

If you do "social media" get some dog portraits posted on there.


----------



## Designer

PS: my son and DIL live in the Linden Hills area just off So. France, and they might go for it, although their dog (a rescue dog) is a frantic, ill-behaved monster who will attack anything, so they might not.


----------



## pixmedic

Haven't done much in the way of dog portraits, but aside from dog specific attention getters I imagine it's similar to people portraits. 

Muslin backdrops are good. A few off camera lights are a must. A table to put the dog on helps with not having to get to ground level.












Sent from my SM-N900P using Tapatalk


----------



## jake337

Good luck and next time I get buddy all cleaned up maybe I could stop by.


----------



## Stradawhovious

Designer said:


> How tall garage ceiling?  Usually home studios suffer from a lack of height for tall light stands.



8' ceilings in a 24'x24' garage.  I admit it's still a bit small, but barring renting a studio (which is financially out of reach at the moment) it will have to do.  I figure 8' ceilings coupled with shorter subjects might give me a bit of wiggle room.



Designer said:


> Are you planning to put the cars back in come autumn?  So no photographs in the winter?



Yes, it will still be a full time garage.  I'm brainstorming ways to get the best of both worlds, but it will take some doing.  Both cars are brand new, as is the garage, so there aren't any chemical spills to deal with, and the floor will be relatively easy to keep clean, also I'm planning on running a gas line out there this summer and rock it out (it's already insulated) so it will at least be presentable and warm come winter.



Designer said:


> Make a sloping ramp up to the stage so the doggies can walk up.



Great advice!  I will add that to the list!



Designer said:


> I'd recommend paper backdrop if you can swing it.  Get a light/medium gray if only one color, so you can make it nearly any color from white to black or gel the backlight to pink if you want.



Paper as opposed to muslin... I can see the advantages as far as stains, dirt and smells... I will look into that.  Shouldn't be much to hang a roller from the ceiling.



Designer said:


> Bucket of dog treats.
> 
> Clickers, bells, whistles.



Check.  I have a house full of dogs, so I have a house full of that stuff.  I was thinking that I would request that the dog's humans supply the treats though.  I know my Berner has a sersitive stomach when it comes to store bought stuff, I'd be surprised if a few of my "clients" didn't have the same issues.



Designer said:


> Print up some poster-size shots to frame up and hang where people will see them.
> 
> Make up some business cards with a dog portrait on it.  Be sure to name your price up front. (Free?)
> 
> If you do "social media" get some dog portraits posted on there.



I think I'm in "Crawl / Walk/ Run" mode on this one.  As soon as I can achieve PRESENTABLE results on a regular basis I will start trying to drum up "business" through conventional channels.  As it stands, I posted my last few portraits of Bocephus (the Berner with which I share my house) on the facepages and there are enough willing participants to keep me busy after I get a little more set up... although I'm kind of regretting posting those publicly now since they are still lacking. If I do this for people I don't know I will charge them.  I will not feel comfortable charging anyone with out "WOWing" myself with the results... because honestly if I'm happy and think it's worth their money, I'm sure they will be too.  I truly am my own worst critic in everything I do.

Thanks so much for your thorough and well thought out response!!

Sorry for the cross post of the following picture... but I think it's relevant.  This is my favorite from my 1st Birthday shoot with Bo.  I realize that it's lacking in a few ways, but I think I'm getting pretty close to presentable results... This one was shot in my living room which is cramped to say the least.  The lights are too low and too close, fill light (left) too hot, he is far too close to the backdrop (which wouldn't have mattered if I would have shot it at f/8), and it was shot at f/11 where I was hoping to shoot it at f/8 for greater separation from the background (a function of the strobes being too close).  Had it been shot in my garage I could have raised the lights, backed them off a little, shot wider and in theory gotten a more pleasing portrait.

I think...


----------



## Stradawhovious

pixmedic said:


> Haven't done much in the way of dog portraits, but aside from dog specific attention getters I imagine it's similar to people portraits.
> 
> Muslin backdrops are good. A few off camera lights are a must. A table to put the dog on helps with not having to get to ground level.



Thanks!  I currently have 2 300w/s strobes and a handful of speedlights that can be set as slaves.  I'm planning on building a raised platform (20" give or take) to get the pups off the ground. I'm too old and fat to lay on the ground and take photos all day.


----------



## OGsPhotography

Thats an amazing portrait of your dog! You're going to do great.


----------



## pixmedic

Be careful backing your light up too much. The closer your lights are,  the softer the light, so you don't want your lights way back. 

Theres some math type equation thingy to explain it, but my Asian partner who usually maths for me is out today so I can't help there. I try to get my flashes as close as possible.

Sent from my SM-N900P using Tapatalk


----------



## pjaye

Best of luck with your endeavors. Sounds like you have a solid plan of where you want to go with this and I look forward to seeing your pictures.


----------



## MichaelHenson

Well, that shot of your dog is incredible! I understand the drive to please yourself first as an artist, but I think you're underestimating your skills. I've seen several pet photographers charging GOOD money for their work and it's no better (if not even to your level). I'm looking forward to seeing more from you!


----------



## Stradawhovious

pixmedic said:


> Be careful backing your light up too much. The closer your lights are,  the softer the light, so you don't want your lights way back.



I totally understand.  these were literally right on top of the poor pup though... I had them both dialed all the way back, and actually had to drape a white dress shirt between the softbox and the modifier on the fill in order to cut it down a stop.  Having room to move around will at the very least increase my options, and I think that better (more versatile) strobes are in my very near future.


----------



## pixmedic

Stradawhovious said:


> pixmedic said:
> 
> 
> 
> Be careful backing your light up too much. The closer your lights are,  the softer the light, so you don't want your lights way back.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I totally understand.  these were literally right on top of the poor pup though... I had them both dialed all the way back, and actually had to drape a white dress shirt between the softbox and the modifier on the fill in order to cut it down a stop.  Having room to move around will at the very least increase my options, and I think that better (more versatile) strobes are in my very near future.
Click to expand...

You can also help by getting larger modifiers 

Sent from my SM-N900P using Tapatalk


----------



## Stradawhovious

pixmedic said:


> You can also help by getting larger modifiers
> 
> Sent from my SM-N900P using Tapatalk



I will look into that, although it may have to wait until I upgrade.  I'm not sure what my options are with my current Neewer setup.


----------



## Designer

I have a big white umbrella.  BIG umbrella.

I just thought of something; when you're getting set up with some strange dog, hit the "test" button once or twice to see how the dog will react.  The owner can help keep him calm, and reassure him that it really isn't dangerous.


----------



## MichaelHenson

Yeah, if you're looking for modifiers, just snag a couple cheap diffused umbrellas off eBay or something. I got two for $11 about a year ago and use them all the time!


----------



## Stradawhovious

MichaelHenson said:


> Yeah, if you're looking for modifiers, just snag a couple cheap diffused umbrellas off eBay or something. I got two for $11 about a year ago and use them all the time!




Groovie.  Totally forgot about umbrellas... which is embarrassing since I have a bunch of them. None big enough to make a difference over the soft boxes, but they are cheaper than new strobes!


----------



## Stradawhovious

Designer said:


> I just thought of something; when you're getting set up with some strange dog, hit the "test" button once or twice to see how the dog will react.  The owner can help keep him calm, and reassure him that it really isn't dangerous.



Important safety tip, Egon.


And a hell of a good idea to boot!


----------



## limr

Can't help much in terms of the studio advice, but along the lines of making your subjects more comfortable, for the more nervous dogs, maybe ask the owner to bring a favorite blanket or shirt - something that smells like the owner. It might help keep the dog calmer.


----------



## Derrel

The closer your lights are, the softer they are, sure. I would light with a main light fired though at least a 4x6 foot panel covered with fabric or diffusion material like shower curtain. A similar sized reflective white panel camera right would make a good bounce-fill. Overhead light from behind, and above for separation. Muslin backdrops would work well. Agreed--make the shooting area a raised platform, and put a fence on the sides, for animal containment.

I would do this: install an overhead 4 foot by 6 foot wide PVC pipe or wooden frame fitted with a white diffusing front panel. Angle the panel slightly forward toward the camera. Put foam board *side-skirts* on the panel, and a fairly deep, 18 to 24 inch deep black foam-board light blocking strip that keeps the lens from being flared. Aim two flash units inside, firing in from a hole cut into each side-skirt panel. This would be your overhead Top Lighter or Skylighter, pretty much left on on every single shot as a soft, overhead hairlight/separation light. It would be permanently affixed to the ceiling.

Here's an old sketch, complete with the simulated degree of light fall-off you could expect if you fired *ONE, single light into the overhead box, from the left side*. This allows you to create a stronger light on the left side, but to still have some top light from the shadow side. In a small studio, you'd probably want a back skirt, to keep black backdrops pure black.


For a main light, I would light using a BIG panel...the cheapest is a diffused, frosted shower curtain stretched tight...say 72 x 72 inches square, on a rolling, light-gauge steel pipe* garment hanging rack*,like the ones linked to below 

http://www.wayfair.com/Richards-Hom...Garment-Rack-Clothes-Hanger-320-VUQA1304.html
Free Standing Storage Rolling Garment Rack Clothes Hanger by Richards Homewares
or a bigger one. http://www.wayfair.com/Richards-Hom...-Commercial-Garment-Rack-9550KD-VUQA1229.html

Why? Simple. CHEAP. On a wheeled base! Ready for a $5 shower curtain, or even two…eliminates need for two light stands. Makes a great base to mount foam-boards, or other fabrics. Small one is like $24, the big one is $71, but it eliminates two light stands and a crossbar, AND it rolls. Diffusing panels are $5.99-$7.98, shower curtain rings $1.99 a set.


----------



## Stradawhovious

Derrel said:


> [all kinds of incredibly useful stuff in the above post]




Wow.  That's indeed helpful!  I love the idea of the top light, and will likely use it.  The side light, as much as I love it, I like the idea of being able to raise it if I want, and have it more portable.  What's stopping me from making a modifier like the one for the top light, and using that for my main?  Maybe a 4'x4' square that can be mounted to booms?  Just thinking out lour here...

Thanks for being so incredibly helpful with this... All of you!  I have a short honey-do list this weekend, but have the rest of the time off.  I may have do dig out my PVC cement and start working on this stuff.


----------



## Derrel

Lighting with scrims is a super-versatile method. The beauty is that the strobes can be fired through the panels AND also if desired, some raw light can also be allowed to fire over the top of or off past one side of the panel, so that raw light can strike say, a background, or a wall, or a reflector panel, in effect making one light in to two, or even three sources of light. I am NOT kidding about this, in any way.

Look for the Dean Collins on YouTube. Watch DVD 1 - Finelight Portraiture, and watch DVD 3 - Finelight Portraiture Large Set--these are on YouTube right now, today.

The above setup has a 24 square-foot overhead light, and a 36 square-foot main light source, and the idea is to create a very large diffusing panel. A 4x4 foot panel would be a 16 square-foot panel, and will create a harder light, yet that's not necessarily bad. Panels allow you to position the source of the light in different ways, and different distances. You could make PVC scrims ("panels") of any size you like. How to hold and position them is an issue you need to address: you need clamps, locking clamps, etc. See the PDF below:

Dean Collins pioneered many DIY-made PVC light modifiers. Here's a free PDF blueprint book.http://blog.nextdayflyers.com/wp-content/uploads/2010/12/1Tinker-Tubes.pdf

Matthews, Scrim Jim, California Sunbounce, all these names have great factory-made products. Many are expensive--but I want you to realize that making your panels in THEIR standard sizes is a very smart idea, since they have a lot of very nice fabrics and it'd be great to be able to access those.

Being able to raise and fly a panel over the shooting area is something that can be done using 1/4 inch rope. Lights would be moved in and placed on booms. How to position panels is almost unlimited.


----------



## Stradawhovious

Derrel said:


> Look for the Dean Collins on YouTube. Watch DVD 1 - Finelight Portraiture, and watch DVD 3 - Finelight Portraiture Large Set--these are on YouTube right now, today.




TO THE YOUTUBES!!!  I will be back in 3 hours.


----------



## vintagesnaps

I didn't expect the picture to be that good from what you described, maybe you're doing better than you realize.

If you haven't already at some point you probably need to start looking at licensing and usage and all that fun stuff thru PPA or Agence de Médecine Préventive. You may not expect to need to use it but all it will take is one wackadoo situation to give you grief.

Working with kids and having done home visits I often also 'visited' with the family pets... lol ... and I think like kids do, the pet might react to a stranger based on the parent/adult human being's response. If you chat with the person and they get comfortable the dog might figure you're okay and they don't have to protect their person. Of course a photo session may not be long enough for a pet to become comfortable around you, where doing home visits sometimes I think a pet thought I was there to see them instead of the kid! lol


----------



## spiralout462

I'm always shocked at what people will do for their dogs!  If your area is anything like mine I'm sure you'll have lots of takers, on their way home from the doggy spa.


----------



## beachrat

Derrel said:


> Dean Collins pioneered many DIY-made PVC light modifiers. Here's a free PDF blueprint book.http://blog.nextdayflyers.com/wp-content/uploads/2010/12/1Tinker-Tubes.pdf



Dean Collins' Tinker Tubes gave me so many ideas,that my wife thought I was building a new bathroom in my detached garage when I came home with all the PVC pipe and fittings that I bought.
Then came the yards and yards of ripstop nylon.
And me trying to use a sewing machine.
Thank God she took over from there.

edit: Forgot to add that the shot you posted looks pretty damned good to me. Mountain Dog?


----------



## Stradawhovious

beachrat said:


> edit: Forgot to add that the shot you posted looks pretty damned good to me. Mountain Dog?




Yep!  Berner named Bocephus.  And thanks for the compliment!

In looking through the Tinker Tubes manual, I think I will make a couple of the Self Standing Panels, and one of the Background and Separation panels. 

That manual is fanastical!

Also, I've been talking with my wife about this whole thing, and she has been more than supportive.  As a matter of fact, she is all but insisting I take this step, offered to help along the way and gave me a pass financially to get the gear I need to outfit a basic studio.

Have I mentioned lately how much I love my wife?


----------



## Designer

When you guys get your panels assembled, let me know how sturdy they are.  From just looking at the manual (thanks, Derrel!) they look like they might be "wiggly".


----------



## Stradawhovious

Designer said:


> When you guys get your panels assembled, let me know how sturdy they are.  From just looking at the manual (thanks, Derrel!) they look like they might be "wiggly".


The manual said to reinforce the long spans of 3/4" pvc with 1/2" conduit pipe.  That ought to firm it right up.


----------



## beachrat

Designer said:


> When you guys get your panels assembled, let me know how sturdy they are.  From just looking at the manual (thanks, Derrel!) they look like they might be "wiggly".


Been making them for a few years now.
Plenty of ways to stiffen them up if they start getting big. 
Larger panels get a tee fitting and cross bars to stiffen them up wherever necessary,and cheap "A" clamps do alot of  temporary work too.


----------



## Stradawhovious

Well, I decided to modify the plans a little on the tinkertubes.

I built a 5"x5" scrim/reflector that will have a white cloth shower curtain fit to it, and a monopod stand to adjust the angle.

I'm also going to make a scrim out of a rolling clothes rack from Ikea at the suggestion of Darrel.  This will have a frosted shower liner fit to it solely for firing the strobes through.

I'm going to need to enlist the help of my wife in sewing the cloth curtain to fit the reflector, but the scrim will have the liner hang from shower rings and stretched taught with small clamps.

I'm really hoping to have a couple test shots with this configuration tomorrow.

I still need to work on my hair light rig.  That may wait until next weekend.


----------



## Derrel

The closer the flash is to the scrim, the softer the light is. The farther away you position the monolight from the scrim, the more crisp the light is. You can also use two diffusing fabrics if you wish. Scrim lighting is much more-versatile than any other method. Using a scrim, the size, and the quality of the light, as adjustable. You can easily mask off a scrim, to make a round light, or a strip light, etc.. You can use 1,2, or 3 fabrics on one. 

You can also fire a softbox or umbrella box, OR an umbrella through a scrim, or partly through the scrim--and partially over the top, or off past one side of the scrim, so that some of the light hits the background, or another reflector, whatever you want.


----------



## Stradawhovious

Well, I spent quite a bit of time playing with my new toys tonight... and honestly, I'm a bit lost.  I watched the videos, I understand the concepts,  but in practice it's not as predictable as my existing lighting.  I'm sure it's simply a learning curve issue, but if I'm honest it's frustrating.  I look forward to learning how to use my new tools!


----------



## beachrat

Don't get too frustrated.
It definitely takes some time to properly light things,and in all honesty,I spend more time blocking and reflecting light than I do just firing away.
Use your imagination.

P.S. I'll always be grateful for Derrel's constant recommendation of the Speedotron Brownline system.
Cheap and extremely powerful if you have the patience to bid right on older equipment.


----------



## Stradawhovious

beachrat said:


> Don't get too frustrated.
> It definitely takes some time to properly light things,and in all honesty,I spend more time blocking and reflecting light than I do just firing away.
> Use your imagination.




Oh, I won't get _too _frustrated.  It's just frustrating that the concept makes so much sense to me but the practice of the concept doesn't immediately fall into place.  I know, I know, Rome wasn't built in a day yada yada...

Learning photography is hard.  Rewarding, fulfilling, but hard.

It pisses me off to see so many people think that once they've purchased a $500 camera they are automagically granted the title of "pro".  It also pisses me off that at one point in time I was almost one of those people.  I'd like to think I've learned more since then, and that I have a more humble and sound head on my shoulders now...  Time will tell.


----------



## Derrel

beachrat said:
			
		

> >SNIP>I spend more time blocking and reflecting light than I do just firing away.
> Use your imagination. P.S. I'll always be grateful for Derrel's constant recommendation of the Speedotron Brownline system. Cheap and extremely powerful if you have the patience to bid right on older equipment.



Not sure exactly where the areas of trouble are for you, Stradawhovious, but as you said, Rome was not built in a day. Predictability is largely built upon familiarity. I am not familiar with exactly what flash gear you have; I would suggest experimenting with how close the flash unit is placed from the diffusing material. Not sure what type of reflector(s) your flash units have.

As beachrat mentioned, blocking and reflecting light is a big part of studio lighting. If you keep working with a few tools, soon there is an "Aha!" moment regarding almost every aspect of using them. TPF's very own kdthomas bought some Speedo Brown Line gear, and in less than a year, has learned a huge amount about how to light for fantastic creative effect. The thing about Brown Line: it is based on using symmetrical power, all lights equal, OR simple asymmetrical power, with simple, fixed ratios of a limited number. This gives fewer variables as "standard" power options, so you can solve common lighting issues with basic, 50-year-old power output ideas.


----------



## beachrat

Nail it brother.
It's just like reading notes on the staff.
Bass or treble.
Practice,practice,practice.


----------



## Stradawhovious

beachrat said:


> Nail it brother.
> It's just like reading notes on the staff.
> Bass or treble.
> Practice,practice,practice.



Yep.  I got this.


----------



## Stradawhovious

Well, after spending another small fortune ordering trinkets on the intertubes today, I think I finally have enough gear to be dangerous.  Bought more stands, more modifiers, some more light,  monitor calibration hardware, ANOTHER flash meter (thanks USPS for "misplacing" the first one)...

Now I just need to build my light stand weights and wait for the mail to come in.

I have about 6 dogs lined up to help out with building a portfolio, and have decided on the lab I'm going to use for prints...  Walgreens is OK, right??  (I keed I keeeeed).  Before my first shutter actuation I will have liability insurance and all the necessary filings and paperwork with the city/county/state.  (It's nice having a MIL that specializes in entrepreneurial business finance)

I can haz profeshunal now??

Don't get me wrong.  I still don't plan on charging (yet) but even if I'm not charging, and someone gets hurt on my property during a shoot, I want my ass covered as much as possible.  If that means shelling out for insurance and getting all the necessary "business" paperwork in order, that's what it means.


----------



## Stradawhovious

Well, brainstorming names today. 

Both "Doggy Style Photography Services" and "Red Rocket Dog Photos" were shot down by my wife.

Back to the drawing board.


----------



## Stradawhovious

Business registered with state?

Check.

Domain name registered?

Check.

Mind completely lost?

Check.


----------



## Designer

Stradawhovious said:


> .. have decided on the lab I'm going to use for prints...  Walgreens is OK, right??  (I keed I keeeeed).


If you haven't done this yet, send the same file to all your final choices so you can compare the labs.  

When I first read "lab" I thought you were referring to a certain breed of dog.


----------



## Stradawhovious

Designer said:


> When I first read "lab" I thought you were referring to a certain breed of dog.



There seems to be a lot of this going around.  I told a buddy of mine about a Pet Photography business, and he asked me to shoot his wedding.  He thought I was referring to my Photography business as a "Pet Project".  

I've used this lab exclusively for years, and adore the quality of their prints.  They are local,  been at it for almost 50 years and they are very good at what they do.


----------



## pixmedic

I used to use this Lab. 



DSC_4621 by pixmedic, on Flickr

sometimes this one. 



labrador portrait by pixmedic, on Flickr


----------



## Wildcats160

If I can add something to your idea, don't get too married to the idea of portraits.  I can't offer much advice on the technical aspect of photography, but as a dog owner I'd appreciate some professional-quality shots of my family playing with the dog.  My advice? Offer to also go somewhere on location and get shots of the family and dog in their natural habitat as well as your studio shots.  Think photojournalism applied to a family and their dog.  Document that relationship as it existed so the family can look back and say "yeah, that's how I remember [insert dog's name]."


----------



## Stradawhovious

Wildcats160 said:


> If I can add something to your idea, don't get too married to the idea of portraits.  I can't offer much advice on the technical aspect of photography, but as a dog owner I'd appreciate some professional-quality shots of my family playing with the dog.  My advice? Offer to also go somewhere on location and get shots of the family and dog in their natural habitat as well as your studio shots.



Good call, and absolutely part of the plan... to a point.  I'm still goint to try and keep my involvement with people in the pictures to a minimum, but pics of the dogs outdoors at play  is a must.  I do agree that studio portraits only would be a very limited scope.  That said, having a complete, portable studio gives me an advantage to other folks in the area that are performing the same service.

Thanks for your input!


----------



## pixmedic

Stradawhovious said:


> Business registered with state?
> 
> Check.
> 
> Domain name registered?
> 
> Check.
> 
> Mind completely lost?
> 
> Check.




ahem....*cough cough*

Liability and Equipment Insurance?


----------



## Stradawhovious

pixmedic said:


> Stradawhovious said:
> 
> 
> 
> Business registered with state?
> 
> Check.
> 
> Domain name registered?
> 
> Check.
> 
> Mind completely lost?
> 
> Check.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ahem....*cough cough*
> 
> Liability and Equipment Insurance?
Click to expand...





Stradawhovious said:


> I have about 6 dogs lined up to help out with building a portfolio, and have decided on the lab I'm going to use for prints...  Walgreens is OK, right??  (I keed I keeeeed).  *Before my first shutter actuation I will have liability insurance and all the necessary filings and paperwork with the city/county/state*.  (It's nice having a MIL that specializes in entrepreneurial business finance)
> 
> I can haz profeshunal now??
> 
> Don't get me wrong.  I still don't plan on charging (yet) but even if I'm not charging, and someone gets hurt on my property during a shoot, I want my ass covered as much as possible.  If that means shelling out for insurance and getting all the necessary "business" paperwork in order, that's what it means.


----------

