# Rapid,non-hardening fixer, questions on formula



## Shakti V. (Oct 8, 2006)

I've researched on two other fixer formula because F-24 is a slow fixer.  I want a rapid fixer.

   Here are the formulae:

  Neutral rapid fixer  
  ammonium thiosulfate (60% solution)     200ml  
  sodium sulfite     15g  
  sodium metabisulfite     5g  
  water to make     1 liter

   However, I've read that ammonium in fixer is not for open trays because of the ammonium fumes.    
  ~  
  So, here is another formula, the TF-2 Alkaline Sodium Thiosulfate Fixer

  Distilled water     1000     ml  
  Sodium Thiosulfate     250     g  
  Sodium Sulfite (anhy)     15     g  
  Sodium Metaborate     10     g

 TF-2 will wash out of negative and print materials more rapidly than will an acid fixer.  In jackspcs.com, it was not indicated how long PRINTS should be fixed in this specific fixer (but it was indicated it should be washed for 30 minutes).

 My questions are:  
  1.  The resource for the neutral rapid fixer formula didn't indicate the length of time for fixing FB prints.  How long should FB prints be fixed in neutral rapid fixer?

  2.  Which fixer (neutral rapid fixer, or TF-2 alkaline) would you recommend?  

3.  If TF-2, how many minutes does it take for FB prints to be fixed in this fixer?

  4.  I assume that since ther is no alum in either formula, then these fixers are non-hardening fixers.  Is my assumption right?

  5.  Would you know other rapid fixer formula/e that would work with FB prints?  If you do, and if you recommend that fixer, please post the formula here.

 Bear with me as I am only beginning to learn mixing my own chemicals.  I really hope you can help.


  Thanks.


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## JC1220 (Oct 8, 2006)

Don't have time to answer all the questions at the moment, but TF-2 is an alkaline fixer, while it does wash out more rapidly, it takes 10 minutes to fix paper. It is a good fixer if you want to maximize image stain with a pyro developer. Capicity is 20 8x10's per liter liter.


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## JC1220 (Oct 9, 2006)

I think I covered the first 3 questions above.

Typically yes, some form of alum is used as a hardender.

The fixer formula I use is very simple:

Stock Solution:
32 ounces dry measure Sodium Thiosulfate Prismatic Rice Crystals per each gallon of water mixed at about 90 degrees.

For use:
For each 1/2 gallon of fixer add 25g Sodium Bisulfite.

Fix for 30 seconds, turn on the light and inspect your print, then fix for another 3.5 minutes,
total of 4 mins.

I then use a second fixing bath without the Sodium Bisulfite for another 4 minutes.

Have you started mixing your own developers yet?


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