# Best exposure settings



## nos33 (Mar 2, 2011)

So when i shoot HDR, is it better to adjust exposure by .5, 1 or 2?  I have noticed that I loose a lot only shooting 3 brackets at -2, 0 +2 and I plan on taking more exposures.  so is adjusting anything by .5 too much?


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## myshkin (Mar 2, 2011)

nowadays i do all mine at 1 ev. I started with the typical 2 but i also felt some is lost.

I want to experiment with .5 but for extreme situations you would have to take up to 20 exps to cover the range


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## tyler_h (Mar 2, 2011)

I've always done 1EV spread; for sunset type lighting I tend to end up doing something like -1.3 -0.3 +0.7 because that is normally enough (I tend to realistic HDR) and it keeps it to a minimal number of shots which can be handy when handholding to negate any potential issues with shake etc. If I'm on a tripod I'm more likely to do -2 through +2 in 1EV steps.

For 0.5EV steps; its probably not necessary to get enough information; your sensor should have enough dynamic range that steps of 2EV come close to doing it. You could try shooting the same scene with three sets of shots; a 0.5, a 1 and a 2 EV bracket across the same range (say the +/-2) and then play around in processing to see if you're finding any benefit in the greater number of shots.


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## Provo (Mar 2, 2011)

Every scene has an entire historiographical dynamic range & it varies 
if you took a -1,0 +1 you would cover only that portion of the dynamic range of the scene but if you would come up to EV2 you are expanding the range.
   But at times the center portion of the dynamic range is not enough, The center image in a AEB 3 shot process would be EV0 aka proper exposure regardless of the setting so capturing a scene with EV1 3 AEB would appear to give a better result because you have capture more of the center dynamic range but I am sure your darks and highlights can use more EV range if that makes sense so an ideal situation would be to capture more dynamic range by getting more exposures
at whatever EV range you desire EV.5 EV1 EV1.3/4 EV1.5 etc.. for me I sometimes use EV.5 aka half step or EV1 step I would recommend EV1 stepping with multiple shot's because half stepping at times photomatix has a hard time reading the EV @half step.


If I have confused you check this video out the guy is a little goofy but trust me watch the video and watch when he is panning 
so you can see what I mean about dynamic range understanding.

start the video @ 1:49


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## spacefuzz (Mar 2, 2011)

I usually use the 0+/-2 EV or occasionally just a 0 & -2 EV.  I shoot in RAW and feel confident I can tweak the files by at least a stop to get whatever end result I want.


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## SlickSalmon (Mar 3, 2011)

Michael Freeman notes in one of his books that he used to use 5 shots with 1EV separation, but only because his camera couldn't do 2EV steps.  He notes that contemporary dSLRs can AEB in 2EV steps, and that covers 95% of what he does.  My experience is consistent with his.  I use 0 +/- 2EV almost exclusively, only adding additional underexposures if there's a light source in the image.


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## nos33 (Mar 4, 2011)

I am currently shooting with a Nikon D5000.  It has auto bracketing of 3 shots.  I usually have it set at -2, 0 and +2.  I was thinking of throwing it into manual and change the steps by 1 every shot.


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## SlickSalmon (Mar 4, 2011)

nos33 said:


> I am currently shooting with a Nikon D5000.  It has auto bracketing of 3 shots.  I usually have it set at -2, 0 and +2.  I was thinking of throwing it into manual and change the steps by 1 every shot.


Try this experiment.  Take the same shot at -2,0,+2 and -2,-1,0,+1,+2.  Process both thru Photomatix and compare the results.  Share with the rest of us what you found.  I did it with a D5000, and I didn't see any difference.


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## Bynx (Mar 4, 2011)

I  am going to shoot a wedding. What exposure do I use?
I am going to shoot a portrait. What exposure do I use?
I am going to shoot a landscape. What exposure do I use?

If anyone can answer any of these, please do so. Personally, I cant because the answer is "IT DEPENDS". It depends on the lighting conditions. The more shots you take for your HDR the more accurate it will be in the end. The broader your shutter speed is between shots the more coarse your end results. And that coarseness will depend on the dynamic range of the scene you are shooting. How bright is the brightest, and how dark is the darkest? If its really bright out with the sun somewhere in the image then Id say a lot more underexposed shots will be needed. If its really dark to almost black black then more overexposed shots will be needed. See -- IT ALL DEPENDS. And in this day and age where we can see instant results of each shot we take the best advice is to shoot it with 1/3 or 1/2 between shots. Then make an HDR with all the shots, every 2 shots, and every 3 shots. See what the difference is and then you can tell us what the best exposure is.


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## Provo (Mar 4, 2011)

nos33 said:


> I am currently shooting with a Nikon D5000.  It has auto bracketing of 3 shots.  I usually have it set at -2, 0 and +2.  I was thinking of throwing it into manual and change the steps by 1 every shot.


 


SlickSalmon said:


> nos33 said:
> 
> 
> > I am currently shooting with a Nikon D5000.  It has auto bracketing of 3 shots.  I usually have it set at -2, 0 and +2.  I was thinking of throwing it into manual and change the steps by 1 every shot.
> ...




Guys I have a D5000 as well don't forget & mind you all my latest pictures have been with more exposures surpassing the 3 AEB shot also look at MyshKin he shoot's multi as well but I also 
have shot with AEB ev2 step but now I go for more exposures so I have to to use something under EV2 for that purpose but I am also covering more dynamic range and exceeding EV2 also 



Here's some examples 
http://www.thephotoforum.com/forum/hdr-discussions/233227-snow-shots-2-a.html

For the sake of the thread use what you think best works for you there now let's all go have a beer or coffee. Hehe


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## SlickSalmon (Mar 5, 2011)

I'd just like to draw a distinction between taking more exposures to cover a wider dynamic range vs taking more exposures within a given dynamic range.  I wouldn't argue with anyone who took more exposures to cover a wider dynamic range, if the scene calls for it.  That's the whole point of HDR.  But I don't see the advantage of taking more exposures within a given dynamic range, so long as you don't exceed 2EV between shots.  I proposed the experiment above (3 exposures within +/-2 EV vs 5 exposures within +/- 2EV) so that the OP could see if there was any difference in the final result.  I fail to see what's wrong with that suggestion and why threads on this topic seem to generate so much acrimony.  It's a simple experiment.


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## nos33 (Mar 7, 2011)

SlickSalmon said:


> I'd just like to draw a distinction between taking more exposures to cover a wider dynamic range vs taking more exposures within a given dynamic range.  I wouldn't argue with anyone who took more exposures to cover a wider dynamic range, if the scene calls for it.  That's the whole point of HDR.  But I don't see the advantage of taking more exposures within a given dynamic range, so long as you don't exceed 2EV between shots.  I proposed the experiment above (3 exposures within +/-2 EV vs 5 exposures within +/- 2EV) so that the OP could see if there was any difference in the final result.  I fail to see what's wrong with that suggestion and why threads on this topic seem to generate so much acrimony.  It's a simple experiment.


 

I will do this as soon as the weather starts to brighten up.  It has been dark and gloomy here in Utah for the last couple weeks and before that it was just too plain cold to go outside for any given amount of time.  But the weather is changing and there are hikes to be hiked and places to visit.


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## mwesley (Mar 10, 2011)

Some great insight into HDR photography can be gained by reading up on the Zone System.  Basically, back in film days, this is how one achieved what is today known as HDR.  Understanding the principles of the Zone System will provide better insight with respect to the number of exposures one should take of any scene.  Basically, scenes with broad tonal ranges would ideally be exposed a greater number of times than a scene that presents fewer tonal ranges.  The whole idea is to achieve black blacks with precise detail, and white whites with precise detail ... all ranges between black and white should be equally as detailed, and obviously each range will ideally be perfectly exposed.  The number of images you require will be dependent upon correct exposure for each tonal range within the image.  If you are able to achieve this with a few bracketed shots, then that's all you'll need ... it really depends upon how detail-oriented and picky you wish to be; additionally, the fact that exposure compensations can be made on the computer also plays a role in determining what you'll need to expose for on camera.  In the days of film, one would expose for the shadows and process for the highlights ... calculating for a 10-stop range between the darkest dark to the brightest highlight ... obviously, the process is much easier now.  As I see it, the decision regarding "correct" number of exposures, and how far to bracket either way is completely dependent upon the scene, and your eye!  Shoot to properly expose each range and you're golden


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## inaka (Mar 10, 2011)

I shoot 9 exposures +/- 1EV with the Nikon D7000.
The D7000 actually only has auto bracketing setup for 3 shots, however, if you configure your User Presets (U1 and U2) you can get an additional 3 shots for each setting, making it auto bracket for 9 shots.
You just have to turn the dial on the top to U1 and U2 and then fire away. Makes things much easier.


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## 1holegrouper (Apr 12, 2011)

I have the same camera and that is what I do. But, as earlier posts have said, there are some situations where 9 brackets are not needed. I can get the same effect with just -2, 0, +2 which cuts way down on processing time! I think part of it is the camera and lens ability to capture more or less dynamic range and the other part is the scene you are shooting.


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## jac (Apr 20, 2011)

I shoot -2, -1, 0, 1, 2. Don't always use all five, sometimes process (mostly NIK HDR Efex Pro but Photomatix occasionally) just one range of three within the group. I like to have the choice of exposures. Take the set you want, get comfortable with your software of choice and create your own style. That's part of the fun in HDR PP.


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