# My B&W Film Processing List, Help Please!



## BTilson (Apr 10, 2009)

Based on research and some luck and hope, I have compiled a list of things to buy so I can begin processing my medium format B&W film at home. Please look over this list, and recommend any changes, additions, subtractions, etc. I have never done this before, so I want all the input I can get.

Thanks!

Here is the list:

27" x 30" Changing Bag
16oz Plastic Graduate (2)
1" Stainless Steel Darkroom Dial Thermometer
Universal Developing Tank With Two Adjustable Reels (Can handle 120 Film)
12ml Syringe
Kodak HC-110 Developer
Kodak Fixer (Power for 1gal)
Heico Perma Wash (1qt)
Kodak PhotoFlo (16oz)
Stainless Steel Film Clips (10 pack)
Film Squeegee (Big enough for 120 film)
Stopwatch
Misc Chemical Storage Containers and such


----------



## Torus34 (Apr 11, 2009)

There's a series of articles on b&w photography, including darkroom work, on this site.  It specifically covers all necessary items and chemicals.


----------



## Dwig (Apr 11, 2009)

It looks like a good list. My personal habits would dictate a few modest changes:

1. Minimum of 3 graduates. Dedicate on to developer, one to fixer, and one to be shared by all the post-fixer chemicals. They're cheap and having dedicated graduates for the primary chemicals avoids the need for careful cleaning in the middle of a chemical mixing session and reduces the chance of serious error.

2. Be sure the Misc. Storage Container sections included a series of matched beakers/containers that can comfortably hold a full tank's worth of chemicals. You should always mix the chemicals for a processing run in advance and allow them to all adjust to a uniform temperature. Merely mixing the developer, starting the processing run, and then mixing the fixer while the developer is in the tank is bad practice for a number of reasons.

After a while getting your feet on the ground, I would suggest that you consider the addition of a very good alcohol/glass thermometer in addition to the SS dial thermo. This would be used to check the calibration of the dial thermo perodically and not for actual temperature measurement of chemicals. Dial thermometers can easily get out of adjustment. BTW, when you choose a dial thermometer, be sure to get one that is adjustable. Such models will have a hexagonal "nut" behind the dial where the stem joins.


----------



## BTilson (Apr 11, 2009)

Thanks for the input. That is a good point about having 3 (or more) graduates. Also thanks for reminding me about the B&W articles on this site, Torus. I had skimmed over them before, but forgotten about them.

<edit> Post # 400!


----------



## bhop (Apr 14, 2009)

In addition to what's already been said, I would recommend a stainless steel developing tank.  It uses less chemicals and after you get the hang of it, the reels are actually easier to use than the 'easy' twisty kinds (IMO), and it being steel, holds the temperature longer than the plastic ones.  I have one reel for 120 and one for 35mm, but the same tank will hold two 35mm reels.  I switched to stainless when my film kept getting stuck and bent while trying to twist them in.  I don't know if it was some kind of buildup on the plastic reels or what, but it's much better now.

Personally, i'd ditch the film clips.  Save some money, go to the 99¢ store and get a bag of clothespins.  What's the syringe for?  Never felt the need for one..


----------



## BTilson (Apr 14, 2009)

Syringe for mixing small amounts of chemicals? I dunno lol. An article I read somewhere said they were invaluable... and good point about the clothes pins. Thanks for that!


----------



## Sjixxxy (Apr 14, 2009)

bhop said:


> Personally, i'd ditch the film clips.  Save some money, go to the 99¢ store and get a bag of clothespins.



I second this notion.



bhop said:


> What's the syringe for?  Never felt the need for one..



Using HC-110 as a one shot requires making measurement in terms of 6.3ml and such. The syringes come very much in handy with this developer.


----------



## bhop (Apr 15, 2009)

Sjixxxy said:


> Using HC-110 as a one shot requires making measurement in terms of 6.3ml and such. The syringes come very much in handy with this developer.



Ah, I see.. I use Clayton f76 and Arista liquid chemicals, no syringes required..


----------



## djacobox372 (Apr 15, 2009)

BTilson said:


> Syringe for mixing small amounts of chemicals? I dunno lol. An article I read somewhere said they were invaluable... and good point about the clothes pins. Thanks for that!



I'd agree that a syringe makes mixing small batches of developer easier--however 12ml is too small... Dillution B of HC110 needs about 16ml of developer per 500ml, consider that.

I'm not so sure that the perma wash is necessary.

What do you plan on using as a stop?


----------



## CW Jones (Apr 15, 2009)

only thing I will add for now... Squeegees are so useless! 
do you have a hand with at least 2 fingers? if so use your fingers. sometimes little pieces of stuff will get stuck in the squeegee and will scratch your film and potentially ruin your prints... just something to consider...... your fingers work fine. that and get some cloths pins cuz they will do the same as the clips lol


----------



## Sjixxxy (Apr 24, 2009)

CW Jones said:


> only thing I will add for now... Squeegees are so useless!
> do you have a hand with at least 2 fingers? if so use your fingers. sometimes little pieces of stuff will get stuck in the squeegee and will scratch your film and potentially ruin your prints... just something to consider...... your fingers work fine.



I don't bother with a squeegee or my fingers. I just give the film a few hard shakes into the sink while it is still on the development reel. THis method does a great job of getting the excess water off, and has no risk of scratching.


----------



## randerson07 (Apr 24, 2009)

I use HC110 and Rodinal, and do not use a syringe. I went and did some conversions from a metric conversion site and figured out how many tablespoons or teaspoons were needed for a 35mm or 120 roll. I then used water into said spoons and poured them into my 650mm graduate. I then took a knife and a marker and marked the water line. I know just pour my developer into the graduate up to said line and then add water.  Its not exact at all, but its consistent. 

Call me lazy, but I also just estimate water temp. I used to have a glass thermometer, but it broke. I remembered where abouts I needed my faucet to be to get to 68F and now I just set it around there touch the water see if it feels about right and go to town.

I also forgo the changing bag, Ive never used one but I find throwing a towel under a closet/bathroom door and having space to work in very easy.

I use plastic reels but will be ditching them soon, they are about a year old now and are starting to do as Bhop said. They are kinking my films once in a while. Instead of twisting Ive been just pushing the film onto the reel, this works for 120, but for a 36exp roll of 35mm it will just kink if I try to push it on.


----------



## Dick Sanders (Apr 24, 2009)

You're going to have so much fun! And I agree with the following...

1.  More graduates. 

2.  Switch to stainless

3.  Definitely bounce the squeegee - with Photo-Flo everything runs off and the film dries clean with no scratches. You don't have to do anything but immerse it in the Photo Flo. 

4. Use Clothepins

5.  I'd go with Kodak xTol, diluted 1:1 - as a one shot. But that's my preference. 

Oh, and getting the water temp right is very important -- this is not an area for sloppiness. 

Enjoy!


----------



## Sjixxxy (Apr 28, 2009)

randerson07 said:


> I use plastic reels but will be ditching them soon, they are about a year old now and are starting to do as Bhop said. They are kinking my films once in a while. Instead of twisting Ive been just pushing the film onto the reel, this works for 120, but for a 36exp roll of 35mm it will just kink if I try to push it on.



Try loading from the spool end of the roll first. My plastic reels are about six years old now and don't give me any guff if I load from the end. Lot of kinkling and jamming of the film with them before that though if I went in leader first.


----------



## terri (Apr 29, 2009)

I've never had any problems with my plastic reels. They, too, are several years old and I keep using the same 2 over and over. Worst problems I ever had was when trying stainless, really. 

But to each his own. In photography, it's all about finding out what works best for you and sticking with it.  

I've never used a squeegee on film, would be terrified to try. Heck, I use a pretty light touch with it on prints. I've always used a couple drops of LFN for a film rinse. Hang the film with a couple of clothes pins and nary an issue.


----------



## randerson07 (Apr 29, 2009)

I may try loading them the way described above.

It might be that I have cheap reels. I have arista reels I believe. They gunked up right away when I was using them in the final risne with a wetting agent. Ive since stopped using them in the final rinse and they are better but once in a while, depending on the film Im loading Ill have trouble and end up having to feed them film on to the reel by hand, rather than using the racheting. I almost prefer to do it this way just because I know its going to work just fine.


----------



## Seefutlung (Apr 29, 2009)

Stainless uses less liquid and allow for better flow (the dif in flow is probably insignificant ... but better flow nonetheless).  You will screw up a few times when you first use the stainless reels.  Typically, the film won't be properly set, jumping over the separators causing the film to touch.  Where the film touch, no development occurs, causing one to loss a few frames. Practice resolves this problem.  

Dump the squeegee ... over time they have a propensity to scratch (as mentioned above squeegee with two fingers ... initially use the index and middle ... over time your skill level will increase to be able to use other finger pairings).

Film clips look better than clothes pins.

Lose the stopwatch ... times are not all that critical.

I suggest a film wash tank thingie.  They accept stainless reels, screw into the faucet and delivers a very good swirling 'power' wash to the film. Something like this:
Doran | Vacuum Action Roll Film Washer (Aqua/Vac) | PR535FW

(I haven't used this product, so I can't recommend it ... the above is just an example ... saves on wash time and wash water.)

Gary


----------



## Junior897 (Jul 4, 2009)

One trick I used was a home made film dryer.  I went to lowes, and took a reel with me.  I picked up a section of PVC pipe that it would fit in.  Next I drilled a bunch of holes in it.  Then I fixed a piece of coat hanger as a latch on the bottom.  Last thing was a cheap hair dryer that I set up on a timer to shut off.  It worked as well or better than the ones we had in the Photojournalism labs.  Quick easy and cheap.

I personally don't think temp is that big a deal.  Our apartment had no ac, and your chemicals were in the apartment.  I never had a issue.  I just had to make sure and watch the time for the temp the developer was at.


----------

