# 1dx motorsport optimal settings, with a 70-200 mkii f2.8 and a 300 f2.8 mkii



## delko (Feb 11, 2013)

Hi Guys

URGENTLY NEED HELP !!!! Need to get the optimal settings on 1Dx for motorsport photography,,using 70-200 f2.8 mkii and 300 f2.8 mkii,,,any any advise and info appreciated

Thank you .


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## ghache (Feb 11, 2013)

are you serious?


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## ghache (Feb 11, 2013)

send the gear to me, i will set everything up for you


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## delko (Feb 11, 2013)

Sorry for the ignorance can you please help , settings for panning in slow corners, and then for using a fast shutterspeed,


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## cgipson1 (Feb 11, 2013)

Settings will vary depending on a large number of environmental factors, what images and effects you want, etc...

just having a 1DX won't replace having knowledge and skill... use it like you would you 60D! Maybe you will get some good shots...


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## cgipson1 (Feb 11, 2013)

delko said:


> Sorry for the ignorance can you please help , settings for panning in slow corners, and then for using a fast shutterspeed,



Sure! How bright is it? How fast are the vehicles moving? How far away are you? If you can tell us those things, maybe we can help!


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## runnah (Feb 11, 2013)

Sorry it's just hard to believe that someone with a $7,000 camera doesn't know how to use it properly.

It's tantamount to someone saying they bought a new Ferrari and can't drive stick.


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## cgipson1 (Feb 11, 2013)

runnah said:


> Sorry it's just hard to believe that someone with a $7,000 camera doesn't know how to use it properly.
> 
> It's tantamount to someone saying they bought a new Ferrari and can't drive stick.



It is probably borrowed or rented... Profile states user usually using a 60D (a little over a year)


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## runnah (Feb 11, 2013)

cgipson1 said:


> runnah said:
> 
> 
> > Sorry it's just hard to believe that someone with a $7,000 camera doesn't know how to use it properly.
> ...



So?


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## delko (Feb 11, 2013)

Its for a friend ,

mid daylight,
racing cars on a track around 160-200 km/h
Min 10 meters and as far as 25 meters away.

Thank you


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## o hey tyler (Feb 11, 2013)

If your friend spent $7000 in gear without knowing the trade, I'm sure they're not smart enough to how to figure it out. 

See if there's a green box on the dial. Use that one.


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## runnah (Feb 11, 2013)

delko said:


> Its for a friend ,
> 
> mid daylight,
> racing cars on a track around 160-200 km/h
> ...




Framing and zoom I can't help you with.

Keep the sun at your back and try f/7.1-f/11
ISO around 400
1/1250 shutter speed, maybe go a bit higher or lower depending on your position.

Its hard to say really. I would use different setting if the cars were coming at me at an angle, going around a curve or head on.


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## delko (Feb 11, 2013)

o hey tyler said:


> If your friend spent $7000 in gear without knowing the trade, I'm sure they're not smart enough to how to figure it out.
> 
> See if there's a green box on the dial. Use that one.



Thats not the case, he is well experienced and he is just looking for the best setting to get the best possible results,


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## cgipson1 (Feb 11, 2013)

runnah said:


> delko said:
> 
> 
> > Its for a friend ,
> ...



That was my point with the silly questions... those are all variables, not a static piece of information there! And the settings would have to change to match the variables....


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## o hey tyler (Feb 11, 2013)

delko said:


> o hey tyler said:
> 
> 
> > If your friend spent $7000 in gear without knowing the trade, I'm sure they're not smart enough to how to figure it out.
> ...



If he's experienced, he should be able to deduce that there are not "the best possible settings" that people can tell you over the interwebs. We don't know the venue he's shooting, the light, or the layout of the track.


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## KmH (Feb 11, 2013)

You're missing the point, the best settings will vary with the amount of light available and various other factors. Your friend will have to make adjustments to the settings on the fly as they are needed.

As it is, there are a lot of different combinations of aperture, shutter speed, and ISO that will all *give the exact same exposure*. Only 1 of the 9 combinations will be the correct settings to produce the artistic effects of motion stopping, depth-of-field, and image noise the photographer wants.


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## runnah (Feb 11, 2013)

cgipson1 said:


> That was my point with the silly questions... those are all variables, not a static piece of information there! And the settings would have to change to match the variables....



Exactly. tyler has it right, find the "[]" and hope for the best.


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## delko (Feb 11, 2013)

Hi guys, im the friend just asked Delko to post it on my behalf,,and thnx for the replies so far. I fully understand the basic principles of conditions and variables,,brightness, distance,,speed etc. My main question is,,if i prefer to use TV(shutter priority) and i wud maybe select a "case" lets say case 3 as a shortcut,,what would be the best settings under the menu of "tracking sensitivity, accel/decel tracking. AF point auto switching" and customizing AF functions,,,any suggestions would be greatly appreciated. As i either use 70-200 f2.8 mkii or 300 f2.8mkii.


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## brian_f2.8 (Feb 11, 2013)

runnah said:
			
		

> Sorry it's just hard to believe that someone with a $7,000 camera doesn't know how to use it properly.
> 
> It's tantamount to someone saying they bought a new Ferrari and can't drive stick.



My Ferrari is automatic


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## runnah (Feb 11, 2013)

brian_f2.8 said:


> runnah said:
> 
> 
> 
> ...



Sorry I only drive classic Ferrari's...


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## brian_f2.8 (Feb 11, 2013)

delko said:
			
		

> Hi guys, im the friend just asked Delko to post it on my behalf,,and thnx for the replies so far. I fully understand the basic principles of conditions and variables,,brightness, distance,,speed etc. My main question is,,if i prefer to use TV(shutter priority) and i wud maybe select a "case" lets say case 3 as a shortcut,,what would be the best settings under the menu of "tracking sensitivity, accel/decel tracking. AF point auto switching" and customizing AF functions,,,any suggestions would be greatly appreciated. As i either use 70-200 f2.8 mkii or 300 f2.8mkii.



If you want awesome shots shoot it at f2.8/ 1/5th / 25,600 ISO. They will come out perfect.


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## EIngerson (Feb 11, 2013)

This question shouldn't come out of someone packing $16,000 worth of camera and lenses.


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## pixmedic (Feb 11, 2013)

Is there a "thread of the month" nomination? 
I want to nominate this one.


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## runnah (Feb 11, 2013)

EIngerson said:


> This question shouldn't come out of someone packing $16,000 worth of camera and lenses.



Kinda like the person rolling around in a $60k car with bumper stickers.


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## imagemaker46 (Feb 11, 2013)

delko said:


> o hey tyler said:
> 
> 
> > If your friend spent $7000 in gear without knowing the trade, I'm sure they're not smart enough to how to figure it out.
> ...



Well experienced in what?  Doesn't sound like he has a clue about photography.  I once bought a 400 2.8 from a dentist who bought it for bird photography, after using it once he realized that it was too heavy and out of his skill level.  I paid $2000 for a brand new 400 2.8.  Tell this guy I'll pay the same for the 1Dx. Amateur.


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## imagemaker46 (Feb 11, 2013)

delko said:


> Hi guys, im the friend just asked Delko to post it on my behalf,,and thnx for the replies so far. I fully understand the basic principles of conditions and variables,,brightness, distance,,speed etc. My main question is,,if i prefer to use TV(shutter priority) and i wud maybe select a "case" lets say case 3 as a shortcut,,what would be the best settings under the menu of "tracking sensitivity, accel/decel tracking. AF point auto switching" and customizing AF functions,,,any suggestions would be greatly appreciated. As i either use 70-200 f2.8 mkii or 300 f2.8mkii.



This is really a joke post right?  Just set it on P for pretend and you'll be all set.


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## reaper7534 (Feb 11, 2013)

I came to this forum to learn and all the high and mighty people want to rag on somebody.  Just because he has high dollar equipment and doesn't know every function doesn't make him a idiot.  Maybe he has more money than he knows what to do with and just bought the best of the best.  Anyone here who says they wouldn't buy the best thing they could afford is in denial.

should he have bought a lesser camera to learn on if he had the funds to go all out right away ?  Should a person new to computers buy a 1990s model instead of a modern one ?

on that note, I can't help you one bit since I'm still learning.  Good luck.


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## cgipson1 (Feb 11, 2013)

reaper7534 said:


> I came to this forum to learn and all the high and mighty people want to rag on somebody.  Just because he has high dollar equipment and doesn't know every function doesn't make him a idiot.  Maybe he has more money than he knows what to do with and just bought the best of the best.  Anyone here who says they wouldn't buy the best thing they could afford is in denial.
> 
> should he have bought a lesser camera to learn on if he had the funds to go all out right away ?  Should a person new to computers buy a 1990s model instead of a modern one ?
> 
> on that note, I can't help you one bit since I'm still learning.  Good luck.



Nah.. the best of the best would have been a D4!!      lol!


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## brian_f2.8 (Feb 11, 2013)

Don't fear the reaper


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## o hey tyler (Feb 11, 2013)

reaper7534 said:


> I came to this forum to learn and all the high and mighty people want to rag on somebody.  Just because he has high dollar equipment and doesn't know every function doesn't make him a idiot.



It's not because he has high dollar equipment and doesn't know every function. It's that he has a bunch of high dollar equipment and isn't aware that there's no "optimal settings" regarding photography. You need to know exposure and be able to configure your camera to the effect that you're looking for.


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## runnah (Feb 11, 2013)

reaper7534 said:
			
		

> I came to this forum to learn and all the high and mighty people want to rag on somebody.  Just because he has high dollar equipment and doesn't know every function doesn't make him a idiot.  Maybe he has more money than he knows what to do with and just bought the best of the best.  Anyone here who says they wouldn't buy the best thing they could afford is in denial.
> 
> should he have bought a lesser camera to learn on if he had the funds to go all out right away ?  Should a person new to computers buy a 1990s model instead of a modern one ?
> 
> on that note, I can't help you one bit since I'm still learning.  Good luck.



There is a different between buying the best consumer grade camera with a kit lens and going out and dropping close to 20k on gear.

Honestly what they are trying to shoot is very easy to for even the most inexperienced photographer. What is alarming is they the have no idea where to even start. I am no pro but I can be thrown into most situations and come out with a decent photos by having a basic under standing of the fundamentals.


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## reaper7534 (Feb 11, 2013)

o hey tyler said:


> reaper7534 said:
> 
> 
> > I came to this forum to learn and all the high and mighty people want to rag on somebody.  Just because he has high dollar equipment and doesn't know every function doesn't make him a idiot.
> ...



And I agree with that.  It's just some of the post that are belittling him because he has expensive tools and doesn't know how to use them properly.  Maybe my panties are in a bunch since I'm dealing with a sinus infection.


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## gw2424 (Feb 11, 2013)

Try to start out at F/4 and 400 ISO in Av.

The 300 2.8 is definitely on my bucket list, it is a heck of a lens!

Happy Shooting,
GW


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## brian_f2.8 (Feb 11, 2013)

f4 for panning? Id love to see some of your work of pan shots at f4 in broad day light.


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## TCampbell (Feb 11, 2013)

Read this:  http://cpn.canon-europe.com/files/education/technical/eos_1d_x_explained/AF_guide_EOS-1DX_eng.pdf

Anyone with a 1D X -or- a 5D III (since it basically has the same focusing system) should read the guide on the focusing system.


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## 2WheelPhoto (Feb 11, 2013)

My first crack at panning rendered this crappy stuff with the crappy gear i had at the time.  So play with your camera till you get it for your specific light, distance from subject, and speed of subject


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## bunny99123 (Feb 12, 2013)

Expensive equipment or entry level (me) isn't a factor into this equation (the question).  This is what I was told and have learned the hard way.  It is like a science experiment with too many variables.  There is no correct answer.  It is knowing your camera and trial and error.  Go practice at races as much as possible.  Heck I have even sat on the side of Hwy 40 on a hill to practice panning and shutter spends. 

 Important note, read your manual, then buy a book written specifically for your camera; it explains more in depth, and more options are offered than the manual. If still having trouble buy a book like, "DSLR for Dummies"...really, seriously, it helped me a lot!  I use to teach science so you would think I would have an easy time learning...Nope, because the terminology is different and most books are written in away that can confuse people.  

Shutter speed:  is like a shade on a window, you open and close to let the light in, and light affects the outcome of a photo. Close it quickly and not much light gets in... open it longer and more light comes in. 

Aperture: is the opening like a window, different sizes affects how much light enters the room, and that amount of light is called f-stops.  

Now these two work together, more or less, so if you change one, it affects the other.

Now add the ISO into the experiment (one more variable to deal with) which is a mechanism that affects how the sensor reacts to light.  For example, in my camera if I up the shutter speed too much...I have to up the ISO.  See everything affects everything else.  A high ISO in my type of camera produces a grainy photo.

Each picture is different and each has it own settings to make it a good photo, because all those settings on your camera work together to produce a good photograph like a factory produces a product. Each department does it's own thing, but at the end of the line a product is produced.

IMO if a person wants to be a good photographer they must learn the basics and practice regardless of the equipment's price or brand.

Also, when you photograph outside you have more variables to add to your experiment, where as a studio setting, many variables are removed, and it is possible to repeat a picture with the same settings and get a similiar photograph.  It, is almost 2 AM here, so I hope I got this correct, if not please correct it. 

Good luck!  Enjoy and learn.


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## EIngerson (Feb 12, 2013)

If you have that much money to jump into photography, you have that much to put into classes for it. I don't care if people like to hear it or not, nobody owns a 1Dx, 300 2.8 and a 70-200 and asks what the OP did.


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## o hey tyler (Feb 12, 2013)

EIngerson said:
			
		

> nobody owns a 1Dx, 300 2.8 and a 70-200 and asks what the OP did.



Truth


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## imagemaker46 (Feb 12, 2013)

This post is exactly what drives professionals photographers nuts. An obvious amateur without any understanding of photography or the gear he is using looking for a quick lesson on how to shoot an event.  Even reading though the basics of the 300 page manual, he would still not have a clue.  This is one of those guys that hangs out a sign and says "professional photographer, will work for free"  It really doesn't matter if he has more money than brains.  As has been mentioned regarding cars, if I was in a position to buy a Ferrari, I would take some serious driving lessons before heading to the street, or buying the car in the first place.  I know how to drive, I've been on a track, but it doesn't mean I can really drive.

This was a seriously stupid question to ask in a photo forum.


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## runnah (Feb 12, 2013)

Hey guys, I just bought a GT3 Class Porsche and am I signing up for the 24 hours of Le Mans. Does anyone know how make the car go around a corner?


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## 2WheelPhoto (Feb 12, 2013)

runnah said:


> Hey guys, I just bought a GT3 Class Porsche and am I signing up for the 24 hours of Le Mans. Does anyone know how make the car go around a corner?



Hit triple digit speeds, downshift 3 gears and pop clutch while throwing the wheel at the same time.  Car will turn


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## gw2424 (Feb 12, 2013)

I think we lost the OP.


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## imagemaker46 (Feb 12, 2013)

I think the Op was already lost.


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## gw2424 (Feb 12, 2013)

imagemaker46 said:


> I think the Op was already lost.



I can't believe he bought that much money in gear with such little prior knowledge. I get very angry when I see that soccer mom at the zoo with a 5d mark II and a 24-105 shooting in AUTO...Seriously??


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## MK3Brent (Feb 12, 2013)

gw2424 said:


> imagemaker46 said:
> 
> 
> > I think the Op was already lost.
> ...



You care way too much about what other people are doing. 

Optimal settings for OP would be to put that thing in auto mode, and go have fun. 

Doesn't matter one bit at all if it's a 1Dx or an iphone. 

Shoot what you have, whatever you feel like buying.


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## KmH (Feb 12, 2013)

runnah said:


> Hey guys, I just bought a GT3 Class Porsche and am I signing up for the 24 hours of Le Mans. Does anyone know how make the car go around a corner?


Yes.
A corner is divided into several overlapping sections - the braking/down shifting zone, the turn-in point (track in), the throttle feathering/brake feathering/steering wind up zone, the apex (at the inside of the corner), the throttle application zone/steering unwind zone, the corner exit (track out).

As you approach the corner keep the car to the side of the track furthest from the inside of the corner. *KEY POINT*: Look at where the car will be, not where the car is. Proper eye usage is paramount.
So, as you approach the corner you need to be looking at the corner exit. You will  use your peripheral vision to see the braking and turn-in points.
Since braking transfers weight to the front of the car, the car will have enhanced front wheel traction, and diminished rear wheel traction, you can use trail braking beyond the turn-in point but the more steering wind up you add the less braking and throttle you can use.

If you want to ensure you do not run out of pavement at track out, apex late. If you turn in early, you will apex early, and run off the pavement at track out. Late apexing is used to learn a track, but costs time. Practice is used to gradually apex each corner earlier and earlier until all of the pavement is used at track out.

At the apex, braking and downshifting is completed, throttle can be reapplied and the steering wheel can start to be unwound. Up shift as necessary. Watch the track out point in your peripheral vision, because at the apex your eyes should be looking well beyond the track out point towards the next corner.

We''ll cover the details of heel/toe downshifting and trail breaking in a separate post.
Racing line - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia
Trail braking - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia
Heel-and-toe - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia
Heel & toe shifting
Heel & Toe + Double Clutching with Gary Sheehan by Bluewindc5 - Car Videos on StreetFire


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## brian_f2.8 (Feb 13, 2013)

KmH said:
			
		

> Yes.
> A corner is divided into several overlapping sections - the braking/down shifting zone, the turn-in point (track in), the throttle feathering/brake feathering/steering wind up zone, the apex (at the inside of the corner), the throttle application zone/steering unwind zone, the corner exit (track out).
> 
> As you approach the corner keep the car to the side of the track furthest from the inside of the corner. KEY POINT: Look at where the car will be, not where the car is. Proper eye usage is paramount.
> ...



Um, he was kidding. Thanks for the driving lesson Skip Barber.


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## MK3Brent (Feb 13, 2013)

The ridiculous comparisons people come up with for making pictures with cameras are hilarious.... My favorite ones are usually medical. "Oh, you bought $10,000 in medical equipment so now you call yourself a doctor.."  Or something equally retarded.


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## runnah (Feb 13, 2013)

KmH said:


> runnah said:
> 
> 
> > Hey guys, I just bought a GT3 Class Porsche and am I signing up for the 24 hours of Le Mans. Does anyone know how make the car go around a corner?
> ...




You forgot the lift-off-oversteer issue common with Porsche. 




I prefer to play on the loose stuff.


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## KmH (Feb 13, 2013)

Ho boy! Not just Porsche, but lets call it 'trailing throttle oversteer'.


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## runnah (Feb 14, 2013)

KmH said:


> Ho boy! Not just Porsche, but lets call it 'trailing throttle oversteer'.



True but I have never driven a car the has more actively tried to kill me than my friend's '77 911 Carrera 3.0.


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