# How to build overhead softbox for garage



## DRAFTStudio (Dec 1, 2016)

To start off, I'm not a photographer. I build custom motorcycles and much of my marketing is showing process through iphone photos. The lighting in my shop is pretty spotty so I'm looking to build in 2 or 3 large diffused light panels like you see over cars at the auto show. Only much cheaper than what I assume those cost...

I don't have any experience with lighting like this so I'm hoping you guys could provide some guidance.

My basic parameters:

- Need to be shallow. I'm working with 8' ceilings... and I'm 6'3"
- Easy to clean.
- Inexpensive. Hoping to do the whole job for a few hundred dollars.
- Enough to cover a 3-car width garage (700 sqft)

I should mention I'm looking to build these myself. I'm a fabricator so metal or wood structures are no problem. Let me know what you guys think.


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## Designer (Dec 1, 2016)

Greetings!

The low ceiling may be problematic.  Hang some 4-tube fluorescent lights (maybe 4 units) over the area where you want to pose the bikes.  Get them close to the ceiling.  Build a wooden or metal frame in a large rectangle around all the light fixtures.  Get some white nylon fabric from the fabric store.  If the fabric is not wide enough to reach the edges, sew two (or more) pieces together.  Clamp the fabric to the frame.  (clamps are so you can remove it when finished and wash it)

Get additional fluorescent lights on floor stands to light the sides of the motorcycles.  *Do not* use two or more different types of lighting.  If the ceiling lights are LED, (or whatever) then you should use LED on the portable floor stands.  USE THE SAME LIGHTS WHEREVER 

Take your photos with all the lights on, and then check for color-correctness, exposure, level, frame, etc. on your computer.  After the photos are all fixed, then you can save them or export them.  Always make sure of your finished product before showing the photos around.


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## astroNikon (Dec 1, 2016)

As mentioned to keep the same type of lighting.
In case you don't know lights come in various color temperatures.
You may get a light that is more bluish than another, or more yellow, etc.

Lights are made to a specific color temperature.  Cheaper lights may not have a label about them.  But you'll want to pay attention to the color temperature of the lights and make sure they are all the same.

If there are other lights in the general vicinity you may get "spilling" lights into the area this may case your photo colors to be off and look weird.  This creates a "WhiteBalance" issue.

information on light bulb colors ==> Color Temperature | Topbulb

information on White Balance issues ==> Understanding White Balance

Some Wiki information ==> Color temperature - Wikipedia

So it's very important to pay attention and get the same exact color temperature lights.


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## DRAFTStudio (Dec 1, 2016)

Designer said:


> Greetings!
> 
> The low ceiling may be problematic.  Hang some 4-tube fluorescent lights (maybe 4 units) over the area where you want to pose the bikes.  Get them close to the ceiling.  Build a wooden or metal frame in a large rectangle around all the light fixtures.  Get some white nylon fabric from the fabric store.  If the fabric is not wide enough to reach the edges, sew two (or more) pieces together.  Clamp the fabric to the frame.  (clamps are so you can remove it when finished and wash it)
> 
> ...



I didn't mention this would be a long term install. I was thinking something that could just be dusted / wiped down instead. I think a fabric would collect dust pretty quickly. I'm constantly cutting metal so there's lots of it.

Is there a cheap plastic sheet material I could use instead of the fabric?


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## ClickAddict (Dec 1, 2016)

If you're going to build it yourself, check out http://www.diyphotography.net/ website.  They have 100s of ideas on building your own lights for photography.  There must be at least a few on overhead lights.  I'm sure a lot of the ideas they suggest for regular softboxes would apply as well.


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## DRAFTStudio (Dec 1, 2016)

astroNikon said:


> As mentioned to keep the same type of lighting.
> In case you don't know lights come in various color temperatures.
> You may get a light that is more bluish than another, or more yellow, etc.
> 
> ...



Ahh yes, I'm familiar with color temperature via automotive HIDs. Good to know! I'd like to get as close to a neutral white as I can, so it looks like 4-5k maybe. Thanks for the links!


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## DRAFTStudio (Dec 1, 2016)

ClickAddict said:


> If you're going to build it yourself, check out http://www.diyphotography.net/ website.  They have 100s of ideas on building your own lights for photography.  There must be at least a few on overhead lights.  I'm sure a lot of the ideas they suggest for regular softboxes would apply as well.



Oh great, I'll have a look through their DIYs.


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## Designer (Dec 1, 2016)

DRAFTStudio said:


> I didn't mention this would be a long term install. I was thinking something that could just be dusted / wiped down instead. I think a fabric would collect dust pretty quickly. I'm constantly cutting metal so there's lots of it.
> 
> Is there a cheap plastic sheet material I could use instead of the fabric?


Wiping down your lights and diffuser (the fabric) is a lot more work than unclamping it and tossing it into the washing machine.

So if you want to leave it up, and wipe it down before taking photographs, then look for some white "frosted" shower curtains that you can attach to the frame.  Think about how easy/difficult it will be to clean that large diffuser, not to mention cleaning the light fixtures and replacing light bulbs.  You'll have to get up on a ladder, reach at least to the middle of the diffuser, move the ladder to the other side, and clean the other half of the diffuser.  Plastic will eventually become brittle and discolored, so I don't know how "long term" it will be anyway. 

*OR* you could make the frame portable, so just hoist it up before the photographs, and then lower it to put it away someplace to keep it clean and to give you access to the lights.

To me, that "long term" installation without any provision for cleaning or maintenance sounds like keeping paint in your paint gun because "you'll have to paint the next project anyway".


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## DRAFTStudio (Dec 1, 2016)

Designer said:


> DRAFTStudio said:
> 
> 
> > I didn't mention this would be a long term install. I was thinking something that could just be dusted / wiped down instead. I think a fabric would collect dust pretty quickly. I'm constantly cutting metal so there's lots of it.
> ...



I figure a few swipes with a floor duster would be much easier than disassembling the light for cleaning.


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## tirediron (Dec 1, 2016)

First of all, why so large?  I would assume that you're only going to shoot one vehicle at a time.  Set things up in your center bay (or whichever) and save a LOT of money. 


It's going to be VERY difficult to get quality light for something like this out of fluorescent tubes; they simply don't provide enough output.  To build a motorcycle-size box, I would frame it out of 1" PVV (Search "Dean Collins, Tinkertubes") and make a box about 6' and 12' long and 12" deep.  Use opaque material on the sides and white, rip-stop nylon for the diffusion material.  You can buy clips that will hold it in place, so that when you're done, you can leave the frame in place and just whip the diffuser off when you're done. 


For lights, pick up 8 Yongnuo or similar speedlights, along with triggers.  This will run you closer to $1000 by the time all is said and done, but the results will be worth it.


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## DRAFTStudio (Dec 2, 2016)

I think you guys are looking at this as a shoot-style setup. What I'm really after is a more evenly lit workspace. A space where I can shoot progress update photos on the fly, mid-project, without having to move things close to the windows for better light. Does that make sense?

I'm not trying to shoot poster quality photos. Just better looking step-by-step photos of me, say, welding a custom exhaust. ...shot with my iPhone. 

Also, I wasn't thinking one HUGE light covering the 700 sqft. Maybe 3 individual boxes above each car bay of the 3-car garage.

SO, in summary I guess what I'm really after are recommendations low cost diffuser materials, types of lights, and any insight on ways the box may need to be built to optimize the light conditions.

I see many pro softboxes have a reflective silver on the interior so I assume I'll want to paint the inside with a reflective silver paint.

I'm also planning on white washing the cinder block walls to brighten up the space.

I found that Lexan makes twin wall "Softlite" paneling. That could work but it's still a bit pricey. It'd probably be a good $900 in material to cover the area.


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## tirediron (Dec 2, 2016)

Okay, then just get a series of 4'/4-tube fluorescent banks.  Allowing 30" between banks along the axis and, say, 36" between rows will give you a very well lit workspace.  There are a wide range of diffusion panels available for these fixtures and installation is bone-simple.  It's still not going to be a lot of light for photographic purposes; you'll need a high ISO, large aperture, and/or low shutter speed.  What it really comes down to is determining your priority.  Is it task lighting or photographic lighting.  The two things are very different.


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## DRAFTStudio (Dec 2, 2016)

tirediron said:


> Okay, then just get a series of 4'/4-tube fluorescent banks.  Allowing 30" between banks along the axis and, say, 36" between rows will give you a very well lit workspace.  There are a wide range of diffusion panels available for these fixtures and installation is bone-simple.  It's still not going to be a lot of light for photographic purposes; you'll need a high ISO, large aperture, and/or low shutter speed.  What it really comes down to is determining your priority.  Is it task lighting or photographic lighting.  The two things are very different.



30" between banks on the long axis or short axis? I'll still likely build a diffuser box around them just because I think it'll be a nicer visual than the fluorescent banks. Sorry, I'm also a designer... Thanks for the help!

I'm thinking maybe the box could have hinges along the long edge so if I need to change a bulb I just pull a couple pins, it swings down and viola! Access!

I'll hopefully start this project in a few weeks so I'll post photos when I do.


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## tirediron (Dec 2, 2016)

I'm guessing 30" between banks along the tube axis(rows), and about 36" between the rows.  If you want to get really fancy, spring for the dimmable fluorescents and split them between at least two circuits.


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## Designer (Dec 2, 2016)

DRAFTStudio said:


> 30" between banks on the long axis or short axis? I'll still likely build a diffuser box around them just because I think it'll be a nicer visual than the fluorescent banks. *Sorry, I'm also a designer...*


 ? ! 





DRAFTStudio said:


> I'm thinking maybe the box could have hinges along the long edge so if I need to change a bulb I just pull a couple pins, it swings down and viola! Access!
> 
> I'll hopefully start this project in a few weeks so I'll post photos when I do.


If you're a designer, then you are probably aware that some fluorescent fixtures include a textured translucent cover that diffuses the light.  And if you're a designer, it is no trick at all to arrange the fixtures in a grid pattern wherein the light is cast evenly over the floor.  As you know; lighting fixture catalogs graph the light output for each type and size fixture that company sells.

Please ignore all my earlier suggestions because I was under the impression that you wanted to pose the bikes for photos.  Sorry for my misunderstanding.


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