# I need Help! with Kodak HIE



## Jeff Canes (Aug 6, 2005)

The film is called high-speed. So I set the camera to ISO 600 that sounded high-speed to me.

 Knowing that there is no extract ISO, I checked the Kodak site for more info. The recommended starting point was ISO50 with a red filter and to bracket your shoots. So after shooting half the roll I noticed ISO was still set to 600. None of shoots are of any thing special


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## terri (Aug 6, 2005)

hmmm....before I give my two cents, here's a question or 2 for ya... :razz:

1) What red filter are you using? #25, 29......?

2) Are you shooting a lot of foliage....? Or was this less foliage and more building/architectural stuff?

Depending on the answers, you _may_ actually be okay here.


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## Jeff Canes (Aug 6, 2005)

used #25 and shoot mostly foliage and clouds  [font=&quot]
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## havoc (Aug 6, 2005)

I would change the ISO to around 200-240 and sacrifice the first part of the roll. HIE is finicky, I find it working best at around ISO200, the 400ISO rating is horsiepoop, with those heavy filters on you need time to get that IR light through, also time of day can really affect it, IR light is the strongest from about 10am-2pm, then it tails off sharply. And the best thing i think you can do with IR, especally HIE and the no anti-halation layer is bracket, its very hard to see what your going to get and having a wide variety of exposures will help a great deal, especally when your shooting at different times of the day.


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## terri (Aug 6, 2005)

Jeff: let me just tell you what I do when I shoot the stuff with my old Pentax ME, especially when I'm shooting outdoors and there's a lot of green foliage around. I always rate it around 360, there's a little notch on my ISO dial there. :razz: Knowing that substances that contain a lot of chlorophyl reflect a LOT more infra red radiation, I usually bracket at 1/2 X which effectively increases the ASA to about 540 - really close to what you've done. So the bottom line is, rating at 360 but bracketing between 1 and 1/2X, and with the way we process the stuff, we ALWAYS produce beautiful negs, nice shadow detail, highlight detail, etc. 

We develop with TMax 1:4, room temp, (75 degrees) and only agitate *once per minute,* for 6 minutes using distilled water - and our results are consistent. Most people overexpose and overprocess HIE and then hate the film. 

I think you could stick with what you've done so far, maybe try to develop it as outlined above - and you should, hopefully, do just fine. Why not stick with it - you'll learn something, regardless.


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## Jeff Canes (Aug 7, 2005)

Terri Thanks for the info. I will try what you said.


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## ksmattfish (Aug 16, 2005)

What camera are you using?  When Kodak is suggesting to meter for ISO 50 with a red filter they are assuming that you are not using TTL (through the lens) metering.  If a red #25 blocks 2 stops this means HIE is about ISO 200, so shooting it at ISO 600 is only underexposing it a little more than 1 stop.


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## Jeff Canes (Aug 16, 2005)

Matt

    If I recall what I read correctly, if was to TTL meter without the filter at ISO50 and then bracket up to 5 stop, after think about the info that terri and havoc gave I came to similar conclusion as you, oh and the camera was an EOS1


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## Mike (Aug 25, 2005)

I also need help. Just shot my first roll of HIE. Set ISO to 50 as per the packet, bracketed +/- a stop or two, and developed in HC-110 for five minutes at 20C. But I was expecting black skies and they're all white. Used a Hoya 25 filter. Where am I going wrong? Ilford SFX gives a more IR effect, and thats only pseudo-IR.


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## terri (Aug 25, 2005)

Mike said:
			
		

> I also need help. Just shot my first roll of HIE. Set ISO to 50 as per the packet, bracketed +/- a stop or two, and developed in HC-110 for five minutes at 20C. But I was expecting black skies and they're all white. Used a Hoya 25 filter. Where am I going wrong? Ilford SFX gives a more IR effect, and thats only pseudo-IR.


 My advice.....change everything.  Did you see what ksmattfish wrote here about the 50 ISO rating? Were you metering TTL? Matt has explained it so it makes sense but it still just.....never seems to work for people. It's always overexposed and people get confused. 

Rate it higher, probably. 360, 400, whatever. Just....rate it higher, especially if you are metering TTL. I use an old Pentax ME and sometimes assume everyone else is using something TTL, too. :razz: Review my post up there to Jeff for good development suggestions. HC-110.....? What dilution rate did you use? 

The #25 filter is fine, and apparently you did fine with loading and unloading. I just think you've overexposed the stuff, and quite possibly overdeveloped it with too strong a solution, a lot of people do. I swear by the TMax!


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## ksmattfish (Aug 25, 2005)

I think most advice I've seen supports Terri's suggestion of somewhere between ISO 200 and 400.  

If your camera's meter works through the lens (like almost every 35mm SLR built since 1970), then set the camera to ISO 360 or whatever.  The meter is measuring through the filter, so you don't need to compensate.  

If you are using a hand held meter, or a camera that has a meter that doesn't go through the lens (and thus not through the filter), you need to compensate for the filter factor.  If a red #25 blocks 2 stops then ISO 200 becomes ISO 50, or you could leave the meter set to ISO 200 and remember to overexpose 2 stops each time.


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## Mike (Aug 26, 2005)

Thanks all. After reading your posts I agree I must rate it higher. I'm using my Nikon FG. The HC-110 was used at dilution B, (1-9) as per the instructions on the bottle. I'll try the next roll at 400, but can anyone let me know what to do with the HC-110? Dilution B ok? 5 minutes about right?


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## Mike (Aug 26, 2005)

I'm new here, so can anyone tell me how I get to add an attachment? Thought I'd show you what I'm getting, a picture speaks a thousand words et cetera...


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## terri (Aug 26, 2005)

Mike said:
			
		

> I'm new here, so can anyone tell me how I get to add an attachment? Thought I'd show you what I'm getting, a picture speaks a thousand words et cetera...


 You can only add an attachment if you're a subscriber here. Upload your images to a free service like Photobucket and you can copy and paste the IMG here. Piece of cake!

You might want to start a new thread when you do, so you'll get a little more attention.


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