# Using speedlights instead of studio lights for the first time - Gear Advice Needed!



## TheSharpshooter (Oct 19, 2012)

Hey everyone, so Photoschool is over meaning I don't have access to a studio anymore. I'm starting to invest in small, easy to carry (especially in the subway!) equipment for light but I am not very experienced in using speedlights so I am unsure of what exactly I need to make this work.

So far I bought a used Nikon SB-900 from a friend and ordered a 76cm Ezybox (A softbox for speedlights). But else do I need? I suppose I need a lightstand which can easily be transported when one doesn't own a car and can be set high enough for paramound light and is also sturdy enough not to be knocked over by wind when shooting outside? I'm also very confused about the best way to trigger my speedlights when using my Nikon D700. Go wireless? Cables? What do I need other than what I already have in order to make this work?

For any equipment suggestions please know that I live in Germany so no brands that are available only in the US.

Thank you all for your help!


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## 2WheelPhoto (Oct 19, 2012)

I used 3 vivitar 285's on pocketwizard triggers before I got real strobes. They worked great


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## tirediron (Oct 19, 2012)

What 2Wheel said!  I use my speedlights and Ezybox (Gotta love Lastolite! :thumbup: ) far more than I do my actual monolights.  Pocket Wizards (or the more economical, albeit slightly less reliable, Cactus Triggers) are THE only way to go for remote triggering


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## TheSharpshooter (Oct 19, 2012)

What exactly do I need to go wireless? Also any recommendations on lightstands? Sorry I'm kinda very new to off camera speedlights and even newer to wireless. My school was kinda old school we shot everything using Nikon FM2's.


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## tirediron (Oct 19, 2012)

There are a ton of cheap wireless triggers on eBay, but you get what you pay for... if you get 75% success with them, you'll be lucky.  Cactus triggers are decent, consumer-grade, and Pocket Wizards are pro-level (and price).  Get a good 12' stand.  Cameron or Manfrotto air-cushioned are a good value for the money.


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## TheSharpshooter (Oct 19, 2012)

tirediron said:


> There are a ton of cheap wireless triggers on eBay, but you get what you pay for... if you get 75% success with them, you'll be lucky.  Cactus triggers are decent, consumer-grade, and Pocket Wizards are pro-level (and price).  Get a good 12' stand.  Cameron or Manfrotto air-cushioned are a good value for the money.



Sorry, not much of a tech junkie, there are many pocket wizards, I'm a bit confused about what I need? Also which stands are for speedlights? Any particular models? Do I need a head of some sort?


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## tirediron (Oct 19, 2012)

Lots of info here.  A light-stand is a light-stand is a light-stand.  You will need a speedlight adapator (of which there are too many types to list).  As far as the PWs go.  I use the Plus II model, but the Plus III is on the street now with a greater range and more frequencies.  I'd see what's available on your local Craig's List.


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## TheSharpshooter (Oct 20, 2012)

So what, I connect the Pocket Wizard Plus III to the Camera and what exactly do I connect to the Flash?


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## IByte (Oct 20, 2012)

TheSharpshooter said:
			
		

> So what, I connect the Pocket Wizard Plus III to the Camera and what exactly do I connect to the Flash?



You have transmitter on the horseshoe of the camera and the transceiver on the speedlite.  Place them on the same channel on both devices test viola enjoy remote triggering.  Note you have to be in manual mode to use your speedlite remotely.  

Just think of it this way, a cell tower it sends signals(and receives) and you phone picks up the singal.  Mental note when I said transceiver, they actually do both send/receive signals.  I saved my pennies and bought 3 pocketwizard flex transceivers; best investment I made since I bought my d7k.


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## TheSharpshooter (Oct 20, 2012)

So I don't get it, are both parts that are needed included in this:

Pocket Wizard Plus III Transceiver: Amazon.co.uk: Electronics

Pocket Wizard Plus III pack?

How do I attach the received to the Speedlight and attach the speedlight to the lightstand at the same time?

Sorry I probably sound like a moron. We used to shoot with FM2s at school and then just scan film and retouch it in photoshop. Not used to digital technologies.


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## IByte (Oct 20, 2012)

TheSharpshooter said:
			
		

> So I don't get it, are both parts that are needed included in this:
> 
> Pocket Wizard Plus III Transceiver: Amazon.co.uk: Electronics
> 
> ...



Yes you need 2,  and that one above you would place on your camera.  The second one will go underneath your speed lite. 

You might have to buy the pctw flex for flash.  Underneath pctw flex has the unusual thread to place them on a light stand.


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## TheSharpshooter (Oct 20, 2012)

I'm very confused now


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## IByte (Oct 20, 2012)

TheSharpshooter said:
			
		

> I'm very confused now



Seriously? Oo

1. You need 2 remote triggers. 1 is a transmitter, 1 is the receiver.

2. 1 goes on the camera.  

3. 1 goes (pocketwizard flex) goes underneath the flash.

4. With the flash connected to the pocket wizard; connect them to the light stand.

5. Make sure batteries are in both devices

6. Make sure they're both on.

7. Make sure they are same channel. Example, if one device is set on channel A.  Then make sure the other device is on channel A.

8.  Make sure both wizards are blinking green

9.  Test fire to make sure the flash is going off when you fully press down on the shutter button.

If you're still confused please consult the YouTubes and Googles to get visuals, good luck.


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## TheSharpshooter (Oct 20, 2012)

Thanks IByte. So Basically Pocket Wizard III goes on top of the Camera and Flex TT5 (Nikon) goes under my main flash, right? Or did I get this wrong? And I only need one because I can set my main flash to trigger the other flashes when it goes off like studio lights, right?


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## IByte (Oct 20, 2012)

TheSharpshooter said:
			
		

> Thanks IByte. So Basically Pocket Wizard III goes on top of the Camera and Flex TT5 (Nikon) goes under my main flash, right? Or did I get this wrong?



No you got it exactly


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## IByte (Oct 20, 2012)

[ QUOTE="TheSharpshooter"]And I only need one because I can set my main flash to trigger the other flashes when it goes off like studio lights, right?[/QUOTE]

This I'm not sure, once you have the wizzie on one you can set your other flash on commander mode on a different channel.


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## uflraptor (Oct 20, 2012)

I realize Pocket Wizards are amazing. Clearly the leader in flash triggers. Might I recommend starting out using your camera flash in commander mode and use it to trigger the SB900.

Nikon has what it calls a Creative Lighting System. You might just be surprised at what you can do with the gear you already have


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## xyphoto (Oct 20, 2012)

uflraptor said:
			
		

> I realize Pocket Wizards are amazing. Clearly the leader in flash triggers. Might I recommend starting out using your camera flash in commander mode and use it to trigger the SB900.
> 
> Nikon has what it calls a Creative Lighting System. You might just be surprised at what you can do with the gear you already have



+1. Just use the build in flash in commander mode. Easy and no extra costs.


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## IByte (Oct 20, 2012)

xyphoto said:
			
		

> +1. Just use the build in flash in commander mode. Easy and no extra costs.



True but the commander modes do have limitations in their range, and may limit what the OP may want to do.  But definitely fun experimenting.


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## TheSharpshooter (Oct 21, 2012)

The Flex is very very expensive and costs more than the Plus III, it's at 230 euros while the Plus III costs 150 euros. Can I make it work with two Plus III's and no Flex? What do you recommend for attaching the lightstand to the Nikon 910 flash and Plus III? Thanks! (And sorry for being so tech ignorant.)


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## IByte (Oct 21, 2012)

TheSharpshooter said:
			
		

> The Flex is very very expensive and costs more than the Plus III, it's at 230 euros while the Plus III costs 150 euros. Can I make it work with two Plus III's and no Flex? What do you recommend for attaching the lightstand to the Nikon 910 flash and Plus III? Thanks! (And sorry for being so tech ignorant.)



Np, I would look at used ones, I had no experience with the plus 3 attachment to speedlites.  And if you have a sb-910 you be able to invest in the flex, trust me they are worth the expense.

It took me a minute to buy those flex wizzies, but then I knew his hobby wasn't cheap lol.


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## TheSharpshooter (Oct 21, 2012)

Yeah but you don't like need one per flash right? Because they almost cost as much as the flash itself!


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## IByte (Oct 21, 2012)

TheSharpshooter said:
			
		

> Yeah but you don't like need one per flash right? Because they almost cost as much as the flash itself!



Lol if you have two flashes you can set the other one to commander mode.  But you may be limited to the distance and position of infared.

It sounds like you want a more intermediate setup.  This you might want to consultant the inter webs.  I will also look in you manual to see how you can make one master/slave combo.

Is this setup for outdoors or indoors?


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## TheSharpshooter (Oct 21, 2012)

Both, the reason I chose speedlights is because I live in a tiny tiny flat where I don't have space for huge equipment. And when I go out on location to shoot fashion or beauty I need to set things up as quickly and efficiently as possible. I don't have a studio so when I shoot indoors it's in a nice apartment I rented for the day or a restaurant or any type of non-studio setting depending on theme.


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## IByte (Oct 21, 2012)

TheSharpshooter said:
			
		

> Both, the reason I chose speedlights is because I live in a tiny tiny flat where I don't have space for huge equipment. And when I go out on location to shoot fashion or beauty I need to set things up as quickly and efficiently as possible. I don't have a studio so when I shoot indoors it's in a nice apartment I rented for the day or a restaurant or any type of non-studio setting depending on theme.



Yeah I would seriously invest in the wizzies and here's why.  

If you're shooting indoors you may get away of shooting with 2 wizzies and commander mode.  BUT if you start moving a certain distance, or change the way you're holding the camera the chances of misfiring increases dramatically.


If you're out doors you would pretty much have to be next to your flash that you have commander active on.

Also I'm stressing the buying 3 wizzies. What if you upgrade your lighting equipment to strobes?  That's one less thing you have worry about if you buy them now, instead having the headache"man I wish I had bought that extra one!". 

 After I bought my camera, I started buying those and don't regret plunking $600.+ plus on a headache/worry I will never have to encounter.

They are not time consuming at all,that's the easy part.


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## MK3Brent (Oct 21, 2012)

You can definitely use the built in flash of your 700 to trigger the SB flash. 

Play around with that, and when you think you've met your restriction with it, go for radio transmitters. 

You already have everything you need to do some off camera flash work, go shoot and have fun.


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## IByte (Oct 21, 2012)

How many flashes do you have?  I'm assuming more than one right?  I'm just worried you won't have as much freedom to move around, as would with the wizzies again check the used department.


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## TheSharpshooter (Oct 21, 2012)

Only one but I am planning on buying a second one, a SB-700 probably and third one once my banker smiles again.


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## IByte (Oct 21, 2012)

TheSharpshooter said:
			
		

> Only one but I am planning on buying a second one, a SB-700 probably and third one once my banker smiles again.



Have you considered strobes?


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## TheSharpshooter (Oct 21, 2012)

Not enough space at home. My apartment is only 20 sq. m. big or small I should say.


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## IByte (Oct 21, 2012)

Ok, because the amount of money you are investing (or going to invest) in flashes, you could buy a decent starter kit that comes with batteries.

Flashpoint 320M kit with battery,case,stands,snoot,umbl FP320MPPWK 

Add 50.00 roughly for a carrying case.

Flashpoint 320M kit with battery,case,stands,snoot,umbl FP320MPPWK


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## Village Idiot (Oct 22, 2012)

TheSharpshooter said:


> Thanks IByte. So Basically Pocket Wizard III goes on top of the Camera and Flex TT5 (Nikon) goes under my main flash, right? Or did I get this wrong? And I only need one because I can set my main flash to trigger the other flashes when it goes off like studio lights, right?



This is pointless. The Flex is a trigger that allows the use of TTL with it. If you have one on the flash and a Plus III which is just a basic trigger, you're wasting the money on the flex. To properly utilize a flex, you need one on the speed light and a flex or a mini on the camera. This will allow you to shoot in TTL mode. If you need to have the camera set the flash's power for you automatically, then that's fine, but most off camera flash (OCF) work is done with the lights in manual mode. If you're shooting with your lights' power adjusted manually, then the FLEX is mostly pointless. If you are going to insist on going with the PW's, a mini might be a good option eventually as it allows use of PW's hyper sync, which is different from high speed sync.

Now, do you need PW's? My point with that question is that there are other options out there like the Paul C. Buff Cyber Syncs, Radio Poppers, Cactus, Photix, and e-bay triggers that cost significantly less than the PWs. What you lose out on is compatibility with other brands like Sekonic, Dynalite, Pro Photo, and others that have built in PW trigger options. Also, usually the cheaper chinese brands don't have the reliability that the more expensive brands like Paul C Buff, PW, Radio Poppers, and Elinchrom do; they have been getting better in their more recent iterations. If you're not shooting professionally yet, you can purchase a cheap set to test out for $30. IIRC Pocket Wizard is the only brand who's (mostly, with the exception of the Mini) triggers are transcievers. The other brands work with a specific transmitter and receiver. This can become an issue if you're out and your transmitter dies for some reason and all you're left with is receivers. Plus, I'm able to use 1 PW in my hand, one on camera, and one on each flash to use the one in my hand to remotely fire my camera which in turn remotely triggers my strobes.

Now, for how to connect everything.

You need one radio device on the camera in the *hotshoe* to send a signal to other devices connected to the flash telling the flash to fire. If you're using PW's, you can have a PIII on the camera and one on each flash (or whatever brand of remote you're using). If you have a device like the PIII that doesn't have a hotshoe on it, you need another way to connect it to your flash. Most flashes have a PC port which allows you to plug a sync cable in to the flash. For these, you just connect a cable which is usually 3.5mm monophone (mono mini head phone type plug) into the receiving device and the other end into the flash. The flash port can be a standard PC port, a screw lock pc port, a proprietary port like on the vivitars, a 3.5 monophone, or any number of connections. You'll have to look at your flash to find out which one it is. If you flash doesn't have a PC port, you'll have to get a device that is a hotshoe with a wire running out of it. You put the flash on the hotshoe and run the wire to your receiver.

The rest is easy. You need a way of connecting the flash to the stand. Most people use an umbrella adapter which has a coldshoe on it and will connect to a light stand. These can swivel, tilt, or whatever depending on which one you purchase. This goes between the flash and the stand.

So in order of top down this is your connections. Parenthesis denote optional connections depending on the type of receiving device you use.

Transmitter device
Camera


Flash
(hot shoe)
(Connecting cabling)
Receiver
Coldshoe (most umbrella adapters come with one)
Umbrella adapter
Light stand.


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## IByte (Oct 22, 2012)

Village Idiot said:
			
		

> This is pointless. The Flex is a trigger that allows the use of TTL with it. If you have one on the flash and a Plus III which is just a basic trigger, you're wasting the money on the flex. To properly utilize a flex, you need one on the speed light and a flex or a mini on the camera. This will allow you to shoot in TTL mode. If you need to have the camera set the flash's power for you automatically, then that's fine, but most off camera flash (OCF) work is done with the lights in manual mode. If you're shooting with your lights' power adjusted manually, then the FLEX is mostly pointless. If you are going to insist on going with the PW's, a mini might be a good option eventually as it allows use of PW's hyper sync, which is different from high speed sync.
> 
> Now, do you need PW's? My point with that question is that there are other options out there like the Paul C. Buff Cyber Syncs, Radio Poppers, Cactus, Photix, and e-bay triggers that cost significantly less than the PWs. What you lose out on is compatibility with other brands like Sekonic, Dynalite, Pro Photo, and others that have built in PW trigger options. Also, usually the cheaper chinese brands don't have the reliability that the more expensive brands like Paul C Buff, PW, Radio Poppers, and Elinchrom do; they have been getting better in their more recent iterations. If you're not shooting professionally yet, you can purchase a cheap set to test out for $30. IIRC Pocket Wizard is the only brand who's (mostly, with the exception of the Mini) triggers are transcievers. The other brands work with a specific transmitter and receiver. This can become an issue if you're out and your transmitter dies for some reason and all you're left with is receivers. Plus, I'm able to use 1 PW in my hand, one on camera, and one on each flash to use the one in my hand to remotely fire my camera which in turn remotely triggers my strobes.
> 
> ...



Thanks for the clarification on the
PW3, I just have the flex ones.


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## TheSharpshooter (Oct 23, 2012)

Thank you Will, it's all become so clear now!  You should write tutorials or something.


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