# Fix time for Kentmere 400 B&W with Kodak fixer



## Joe Scotto (Nov 2, 2014)

I am about to develop my first roll of B&W film tonight and am confused as to what times I need to use. I know that the D-76 is 9.5 minutes but the fixer has no clear times. I will post the film, developer, and fixer that I am using below.

Film: Kentmere 400 Black and White
Developer: Kodak D-76 for Black and White
Fixer: Kodak Fixer for Black and White

*All my chemicals were bought in powder form.


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## gsgary (Nov 2, 2014)

5 to 10 minutes with powder fixer, just have a quick look at about 7 minutes if it looks milky keep fixing until it is clear


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## chris (Nov 2, 2014)

Trim the leader from the film before loading it in the reel and cut it in two. When you start fixing the film in the developing tank pour a small amount of fixer into a container and add one of the pieces of the leader. When this piece has cleared add the second piece; when this has cleared your film should be adequately fixed and you can pour the fixer out of the tank and commence washing the film.


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## Joe Scotto (Nov 2, 2014)

Here's the results: Canon AE-1 - an album on Flickr ignore the color one's, they were done at a lab


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## Josh66 (Nov 2, 2014)

chris said:


> Trim the leader from the film before loading it in the reel and cut it in two. When you start fixing the film in the developing tank pour a small amount of fixer into a container and add one of the pieces of the leader. When this piece has cleared add the second piece; when this has cleared your film should be adequately fixed and you can pour the fixer out of the tank and commence washing the film.


A slightly easier way to do it is to take the leader that you have to cut off anyway, put a drop of fixer on it, wait a couple minutes (you could use this time to measure out the other chemicals), then drop it in some fixer and start the timer.  When you can't see the dot from the drop anymore, double whatever time that was.  That is the minimum time that you need to fix the film.


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## timor (Nov 3, 2014)

Joe Scotto said:


> Here's the results: Canon AE-1 - an album on Flickr ignore the color one's, they were done at a lab


B&W shots like under exposed by 1.5 stops... or under developed (is the negative thin ?) Or scanned not to well. Take your pick. Photographs are just flat, no proper contrast.
Fixing time has nothing to do with that.


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## Joe Scotto (Nov 3, 2014)

timor said:


> Joe Scotto said:
> 
> 
> > Here's the results: Canon AE-1 - an album on Flickr ignore the color one's, they were done at a lab
> ...


Any recommendations as to how I can get proper exposures? I am new to film photography.


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## timor (Nov 3, 2014)

The best way would be to compare the meter readings from your camera with readings from good handheld light meter.
What battery do you have in your camera ? Is it the proper one ?
What is your developing procedure ? Maybe fault is there (quite possible).


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## Joe Scotto (Nov 3, 2014)

timor said:


> The best way would be to compare the meter readings from your camera with readings from good handheld light meter.
> What battery do you have in your camera ? Is it the proper one ?
> What is your developing procedure ? Maybe fault is there (quite possible).


When I develop I agitate continuously for the first minute and 15 seconds per minute after the initial minute for 10 minutes. When fixing I follow the same procedure as developing for 7 minutes.


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## timor (Nov 3, 2014)

Joe Scotto said:


> When I develop I agitate continuously for the first minute and 15 seconds per minute after the initial minute for 10 minutes. When fixing I follow the same procedure as developing for 7 minutes.


OK. What developer and in what concentration are you using ?


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## Joe Scotto (Nov 3, 2014)

timor said:


> Joe Scotto said:
> 
> 
> > When I develop I agitate continuously for the first minute and 15 seconds per minute after the initial minute for 10 minutes. When fixing I follow the same procedure as developing for 7 minutes.
> ...


I am using Kodak D-76 and Kodak fixer in stock


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## timor (Nov 4, 2014)

Joe Scotto said:


> timor said:
> 
> 
> > Joe Scotto said:
> ...


That should be sufficient to achieve good contrast. Since your pictures are full of detail let's question your scanning style. I tried something and it works out OK, I restored almost full dynamic range of the picture with simple editor. ( Pic #21.)(To see it you have to let me post an edit of your pic.)


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## Joe Scotto (Nov 4, 2014)

timor said:


> Joe Scotto said:
> 
> 
> > timor said:
> ...


How would I allow you to post it? If all I have to say is do it then go ahead.


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## timor (Nov 4, 2014)

OK. Thanks. 
Your avatar says that your photos are not OK to edit.
This is what I've got:


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## timor (Nov 4, 2014)

Better ?


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## Joe Scotto (Nov 4, 2014)

I feel that this way it's just too dark.


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## timor (Nov 4, 2014)

It is only a sample, that flat look of your pictures is maybe not connected to your negatives, but the scanning.
Another version. Remember, I work with copy made from screenshot.




The amount of contrast is up to you, but what do you have on Flickr have very small tonal range, feels very flat and just gray.


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## timor (Nov 4, 2014)

Or


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## gsgary (Nov 5, 2014)

timor said:


> Better ?


It looks green on my phone b+w usually look good on it


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## timor (Nov 5, 2014)

gsgary said:


> timor said:
> 
> 
> > Better ?
> ...


You're right Gary. I don't know, why. I just worked with this:


 
which is a cutout from screen shot from Flickr web page. The next two samples are converted to b&w. I manipulated only the the brightness and contrast. Hm...


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## gsgary (Nov 5, 2014)

Alien action In photoshop ?


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## timor (Nov 5, 2014)

Maybe.


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## gsgary (Nov 6, 2014)

Thats one of the problems with digital B+W


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## timor (Nov 6, 2014)

gsgary said:


> Thats one of the problems with digital B+W


I don't know. I am a film guy


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## Josh66 (Nov 25, 2014)

K400 should look a lot better than that in D-76.  I've never used D-76, but I've used a lot of ID-11, and from everything I've read it's the exact same thing.

The fixer is probably not the problem though.  What temperature are you developing at?


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## Joe Scotto (Nov 29, 2014)

Take a look at my re-scanned images with contrast adjustments in Photoshop on Flickr.


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## timor (Nov 29, 2014)

Joe Scotto said:


> Take a look at my re-scanned images with contrast adjustments in Photoshop on Flickr.


What do you think ? Looks better ? I think so.
But a question: how dense are those negatives ? Something tells me, that they maybe "overdone". There may be few reasons. What camera did you use ?


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