# Reels...What's the difference?



## Josh66 (Jul 6, 2009)

Looking at these reels, there are the 'regular' ones, the 'delux' ones, and the 'professional' ones.  Other than price, what is the difference?


The professional one looks a little heavier (thicker wire), but the regular and delux ones look the same to me.


I'm assuming that it doesn't really matter, and the regular one for $10 is just as good as the professional one for $50.  I thought I better ask though...
I can't see how the professional one could be "5 times better".


Is there any real reason why you would need the professional one over the regular one?


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## dxqcanada (Jul 6, 2009)

I can tell you from experience ... a well designed metal reel is a dream to load ... while a cheap one is so frustrating (which can lead to misloading and film damage/fingerprints/bends).

I am not familiar with this brand ... but the Pro looks like larger gauge steel.


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## Josh66 (Jul 6, 2009)

That makes sense.

I'm not going to spend $50 on a reel (not right now anyway), but maybe I'll try the delux one.
I just noticed that the review on the cheap one said that it needed tweaking right out of the box.

BTW, what brand would you recommend?

EDIT

Then again, the reviews on the pro one are all very good...
Maybe I'll have to try it.  OK, after reading the reviews - I think I will get it...


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## Actor (Jul 10, 2009)

I recommend getting a plastic reel that can be loaded with a ratcheting action.  They're a lot easier to load.  I've never used a metal reel because I could never get the hang of loading the darn thing.  I don't think there's any advantage of a metal reel over a plastic reel.


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## CW Jones (Jul 10, 2009)

I have used both metal and plastic ones.. I actually think the plastic ones are easier to load... I just use the patterson plastic ones. Super easy to load IMO, never got a single finger print or bend in my film from loading. Also never took me more than about a min or 2 to load 2 rolls of film, the reels were just that easy.


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## DSPhotography (Jul 11, 2009)

I've never used plastic reels, just steel and have never had any issues with them. Granted it took me a few times practicing with a dead roll of film to get it right, but once I got the hang of it, doing it blind in the dark was a cinch. From what I've heard though, the downside to plastic reels is that they generally need to be replaced after several uses as the chemicals will start taking a toll on the plastic (which is why they're cheaper). It pretty much boils down to ease of use (plastic) vs. lasting practically a lifetime (steel). In a perfect world, someone would have designed an easy to load (ie: ratcheting) steel reel.


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## Josh66 (Jul 11, 2009)

DSPhotography said:


> From what I've heard though, the downside to plastic reels is that they generally need to be replaced after several uses as the chemicals will start taking a toll on the plastic (which is why they're cheaper).



That's kind of what I suspected...

I think I'll go with the "pro" steel ones I linked to.  Should be a one time buy.


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## CW Jones (Jul 11, 2009)

DSPhotography said:


> From what I've heard though, the downside to plastic reels is that they generally need to be replaced after several uses as the chemicals will start taking a toll on the plastic (which is why they're cheaper)




I have to disagree 100% there. Mine look brand new and have been used well over 200 times in the past year. There were some other plastic reels at the college I use to go to that had been there for 4 years and still looked new and operated flawlessly. 

There is nothing wrong with plastic ones at all. Patterson reels are great and I have never seen or heard of one being eaten by chemicals.  

Think about it this way... what types of bottles are the chemicals stored in? Plastic.... if it doesn't eat away at that plastic over time... it doesn't eat away at the reels, relatively simply logic.


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## benhasajeep (Jul 11, 2009)

I have had 12 plastic Jobo reels for 9-10 years now and they are absolutely still useable (still white, I clean my equipment)! Now maybe in another 10 years, it may not be the case. But longevity wise, I am happy with them. And the nice thing about the plastic reels is I can change from 35mm to 120 / 220 with a simple adjustment on the reel. With metal you have to have 2 sets!

I have used both metal and plastic. And the ratcheting action of the plastic reels are easier. But the biggest thing is to make sure the leading edge corners are clipped / rounded over so they don't catch. Thats the biggest hang up with reels (and make sure film / reels are dry). Amazing what a little moisture will do to make things stick.


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## CW Jones (Jul 11, 2009)

ya I always hated having to cut between the holes in the film... haha perfect dark, can't see an inch in front of your face and you have like a 1/16 of an inch to cut between haha

Just make sure you rise them off real good and dont put them away wet or damp and your all set.


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## Torus34 (Jul 11, 2009)

Almost all steel reels can be loaded easily and successfully with a bit of understanding, technique and practice.

For some idea as to how to go about it, see my response in the following thread:

http://www.thephotoforum.com/forum/...95-developing-35mm-film-steel-reels-help.html


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## Josh66 (Jul 11, 2009)

I think I'll still go with steel for longevity.  Even if the chemicals have no affect on the plastic reels - steel will still last longer.

It might be harder to load, but I'm sure I'll get the hang of it.


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## benhasajeep (Jul 11, 2009)

If you don't have a totally dark space to load the reels, and don't already have a film tent.  I would suggest you add one to your order.  I used standard changing bags for years.  And finally bought a changing tent.  Difference is light and day for loading sheet film and reels.  Makes it much easier.  Well worth it.


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## Junior897 (Jul 11, 2009)

Steer clear of the steel reels with the clips on them, and thin wire.  I use Hewes reels that have two prongs in the center that you hook the film on.  I picked mine up for $10 each on ebay.  The thin wire ones are a nightmare.  One other thing make sure you cut your leader off even before loading them.  Also practice a lot with a cheap roll of film.  The easy way is to put a little pressure on the edge of the film creating a little hump in the film.  That will allow it to flow into the correct channel in the reel.

This comes from my past developing, and FYI I am just getting started again.  I learned a lot by trial and error the last go around.


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## Early (Jul 13, 2009)

dxqcanada said:


> I can tell you from experience ... a well designed metal reel is a dream to load ... while a cheap one is so frustrating (which can lead to misloading and film damage/fingerprints/bends).


Tell me about it!  With a good reel, one that's properly aligned, you're in and out of the darkroom in minutes.

Whatever you buy, try to get a return option in case the reel proves defective.


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## Actor (Jul 13, 2009)

CW Jones said:


> ya I always hated having to cut between the holes in the film... haha perfect dark, can't see an inch in front of your face and you have like a 1/16 of an inch to cut between haha
> 
> Just make sure you rise them off real good and dont put them away wet or damp and your all set.



Just getting back into the darkroom and I keep recalling all the neat tools I used to have.  One was a film cutter with pins.  You just slipped the sprocket holes over these pins then pushed down on the handle.  Perfect every time and really easy to do in the dark.


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