# Real Estate Photography | Ballenger Photography (Round 2)



## jamesbjenkins (Aug 8, 2012)

Hey all,

Some of you may have seen my previous thread in this sub-forum posted back in May. That was my first time shooting real estate, and it went pretty well for a first shot. Since then, I've spent a few dozen hours reading articles and practicing techniques. Also, I've picked up a D3 and the legendary 14-24mm.

I'd appreciate C&C here, as although these are technically "professionally shot" as it was a paid gig, I have shot exactly two properties so far.

So, how did I do?

Curb appeal:




Driveway (HDR):





Driveway (layers masked together):





Front view of kitchen:





Back view of kitchen:





Great room:





Master bedroom:





Double tray ceiling (The builder's very proud of this feature):





---

So, I know there's some issues with consistent white balance. There was some very difficult lighting that I'm still trying to work through. Hopefully, you guys see improvement from my last real estate set. 

Thanks!


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## Robin Usagani (Aug 8, 2012)

the exterior photo look like computer generated.  

I dont have experience with real estate but if I were to do one, I would do it when the sun is really low just like an outdoor portrait session and not use HDR.


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## jamesbjenkins (Aug 8, 2012)

It was shot at 3pm, at the builder's request. I'm with you, Robin.

When life hands you lemons...


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## cgipson1 (Aug 8, 2012)

^What Robin said... or a lot less tone-mapping. It is possible to do HDR with just exposure fusion.. no tone mapping!


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## Robin Usagani (Aug 8, 2012)

I know you want it

PC-E NIKKOR 24mm f/3.5D ED from Nikon


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## Robin Usagani (Aug 8, 2012)

Doesnt matter though...  the house is not furnished.  Doesn't matter what you do... it wont be that great.. Maybe the exterior can be.


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## jamesbjenkins (Aug 8, 2012)

cgipson1 said:
			
		

> ^What Robin said... or a lot less tone-mapping. It is possible to do HDR with just exposure fusion.. no tone mapping!



I tried exposure fusion on several images. Everything was just so dark and drab, or totally blown. I've got a lot to learn about Photomatix I guess.

Really wish I could have shot around 7pm instead of 3pm.


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## tirediron (Aug 9, 2012)

Other than the points that Robin and Charlie have made, the one thing that stands out for me is the perspective distortion in the two kitchen shots.  It's freakin' HORRIBLE!  The sink and grill-top both appear to have been twisted into a parallelogram, and seem to be leaning significantly.  

Robin's suggestion for the PC-E lens is an excellent one.


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## fjrabon (Aug 9, 2012)

oddly enough, real estate agents and builders tend to never care about perspective distortion.  They do care about white balance, a lot.  The paint needs to basically be exactly the right color or they can get annoyed.  That' my experience at least.  It's one of those things where you just have to use a grey card.


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## Designer (Aug 9, 2012)

fjrabon said:


> oddly enough, real estate agents and builders tend to never care about perspective distortion. They do care about white balance, a lot. The paint needs to basically be exactly the right color or they can get annoyed. That' my experience at least. It's one of those things where you just have to use a grey card.



I'm guessing that the reason they don't seem to care about distortion is because they haven't seen photographs made with a view camera. Or they don't perceive the need for it.

At least with the paint color they have something to compare it with.


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## Designer (Aug 9, 2012)

James; 

#1  too much sky makes the house look small.  The minimal landscaping hardly enhances the curb appeal, but it's not your call.  
#2  far too much distortion and not a good angle (doesn't do the house any favors)
#3  distortion and too much in the shot (the other room)
#4  distortion and background
#5, 6, 7, & 8; distortion is still distracting 

The house ought to have been staged, but since it was not, oh well.


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## jamesbjenkins (Aug 9, 2012)

Designer, be specific on the distortion.

On the exterior shots, I corrected the keystone, but I didn't see a lot of other distortion.

Tirediron, how can I correct the perspective distortion without ruining other areas?

I saw the issues with the sink and stovetop, but couldn't figure out how to fix them.

As far as white balance, I used a gray card for most of the shots, and on the exterior ones I warmed it up a bit.

I appreciate the feedback guys, really. I want to get develop this into a regular, high-quality offering. Your time is appreciated.


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## fjrabon (Aug 9, 2012)

jamesbjenkins said:


> Designer, be specific on the distortion.
> 
> On the exterior shots, I corrected the keystone, but I didn't see a lot of other distortion.
> 
> ...




Really the only thing you can do is just be extremely careful how you frame your shots.  That much perspective distortion can't be adequately fixed without drastically cutting the image down in photoshop.  And even with it fixed in photoshop, it still looks off.  I try to consciously avoid using the wider ends of my UWA if something is going to be close around the edges of the frame.  

Also there are some spots on the top of the 'pass through' area in picture 4 that need to be fixed.  just to the right of where the fan is in the image.


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## jamesbjenkins (Aug 9, 2012)

Makes sense. This is only the third time I've shot the 14-24 in the field, other than practice.

I got the spots. Pesky D3 needs cleaning a lot more than the D700...


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## Robin Usagani (Aug 9, 2012)

this image for example.  Do you think you accomplish a lot doing HDR/tonemapping?  Is it necessary to show the neighbor house with truck and portable toilet outside?  I felt like I would just shoot it with 1 exposure and get blown out window.


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## tirediron (Aug 9, 2012)

You can correct some of it by using the Perspective Correction tool in Photoshop, but the best plan would be to prevent it before-hand. Ideally, using either a PC/Tilt-shift lens or view-camera, and if those aren't an option, than you could try shooting a panorama; capture many small images and stitch them together.  Irrespective of what tools you use, you can minimize the effects by ensuring that your camera is level and square in relation to the surroundings.  Think, "Tripod".


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## jamesbjenkins (Aug 9, 2012)

Schwettylens said:
			
		

> I know you want it
> 
> PC-E NIKKOR 24mm f/3.5D ED from Nikon



Saw this a few months ago, never paid much attention to it. Now that I've spent a half hour researching it, I think I bought the wrong lens in the 14-24...


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## jamesbjenkins (Aug 9, 2012)

Schwettylens said:
			
		

> this image for example.  Do you think you accomplish a lot doing HDR/tonemapping?  Is it necessary to show the neighbor house with truck and portable toilet outside?  I felt like I would just shoot it with 1 exposure and get blown out window.



I see what you mean. With this window, I totally agree. I've just be so conditioned that if the window is blown, the shot is off.

Thanks for the perspective.


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## fjrabon (Aug 9, 2012)

jamesbjenkins said:


> Schwettylens said:
> 
> 
> 
> ...



Yeah, after my wallet recovers from the D7000, I'll be going full frame, and that lens in high atop the priority list at that point.


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## jamesbjenkins (Aug 9, 2012)

tirediron said:
			
		

> You can correct some of it by using the Perspective Correction tool in Photoshop, but the best plan would be to prevent it before-hand. Ideally, using either a PC/Tilt-shift lens or view-camera, and if those aren't an option, than you could try shooting a panorama; capture many small images and stitch them together.  Irrespective of what tools you use, you can minimize the effects by ensuring that your camera is level and square in relation to the surroundings.  Think, "Tripod".



View cameras aren't an option, as I've never shot film, have none of the necessary equipment, and I'm $20,000 invested in DSLR.

The PC-E lens is looking like a very good option. I also need to work on staying square and level on many shots. Those kitchen shots were on a tripod and RRS head, but it was tilted forward, which caused those intersecting verticals...

See, this is why I'm on this forum. I learn so much from you guys that I can't seem to grasp on my own. I really wish I'd studied photography in school. I have no formal education at all. Completely self taught... 

Makes learning a long and tedious process.


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## fjrabon (Aug 9, 2012)

jamesbjenkins said:


> tirediron said:
> 
> 
> 
> ...



eh, I mean imagine you took photography in school, you'd be learning this over a 4-5 year span.  For people who really are dedicated to taking criticism and listening (and also figuring out who to listen to), I think you can learn on here faster than just about any environment that isn't tagging along with a master photographer.


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## MLeeK (Aug 9, 2012)

Personally I'd fix the distortion. It's such an easy fix in ACR/LR now. 
I'd also much prefer the blown or nearly blown window in this one. The window really draws the eye in 3 and 5. 
The edge of the roof in 2 looks like sloppy brush work in masking. The brick is too bright in that one. I like the idea of HDR or double processing on those shots, but yours are REALLY bright on the brick and I think that's making them appear un-natural. I like the second much better. You can see the door and the details, the shadows aren't dark and hiding things.
In all honesty? They're beautiful images, we're photographers so we're picky!


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## Designer (Aug 9, 2012)

jamesbjenkins said:


> View cameras aren't an option, ...
> 
> Makes learning a long and tedious process.



Perhaps the cheapest and easiest way to learn is to observe what the pros are using.

As I posted on your previous thread, the only architectural photographer that I am personally aquainted with uses a view camera.


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## jamesbjenkins (Aug 9, 2012)

MLeeK said:
			
		

> .
> In all honesty? They're beautiful images, we're photographers so we're picky!



I post them here so you wonderfully picky photographers can tear them apart, tell me how much I suck and give me lots to work on.

If I wanted empty, nice sounding compliments, I'd show them to my mother


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## jamesbjenkins (Aug 9, 2012)

Designer said:
			
		

> Perhaps the cheapest and easiest way to learn is to observe what the pros are using.
> 
> As I posted on your previous thread, the only architectural photographer that I am personally aquainted with uses a view camera.



I don't know the first thing about view cameras. I had to google "view camera" when you posted in the other thread. I have thousands of hours invested in what I'm doing now. From what I've read, the 24mm PC-E that Robin suggested is probably the best choice for me.

And, I want to do real estate, not just architectural. Very fast turn around time is very important to the people I'm shooting for. Like 24 hours fast. Good luck with that on a view camera.

Thanks for the perspective though. It might be fun to play around with.


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## Robin Usagani (Aug 9, 2012)

I hope you dont mind me correcting it.  

Before:
	

	
	
		
		

		
			






After:


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## manaheim (Aug 9, 2012)

Ok, this is an area where I can help...

First... never shoot buildings flat.  You pretty much always want to see two sides of a building- even if it is just barely off-angle.  Flat structures tend to look unappealing.  The depth adds a lot.

Next, those exterior shots are pretty washed out and the colors are wonky.  The interior ones are a little off as well, but not as bad.  This monitor I'm on is not color corrected, but it's close enough that I'm pretty sure I'm correct.  This might be post processing and HDR choices, but it almost looks like you didn't cover enough of the darker range of the exposures.

Third, I'm not sure an HDR was worth the effort and impact on the exterior shots.  In mid-day light all you're going to do is level out any shadows, and you can reasonably do that with RAW and a bit of very minor tweaking.  Remember... your time is valuable, and residential real estate fees don't tend to add up to much.  You need to get the best images but without spending too much time.  $/hour.  Think $/hour.  If you can make more money delivering papers or working at McDonalds than shooting AND PROCESSING the images, you're doing something wrong.  If you're going to do HDR (some people do ALL HDR- I think it's crazy, but it's a nice gimmick) then you need to make sure they are KILLER.  They need to pop.  These don't.  You just need practice with HDR is all.

Next... WIDE. WIDTH IS KING.  You need to maximize the width and get as much of every room as you can.  I literally put my 10mm lens to 10mm and cram the tripod into the corner and stand so I can't be seen and take the shot.  14mm should be wide enough... but these shots don't feel like you got enough of the room in them, so either they are crazy small or you're not shooting from a corner.  When you can, try to get a field of view that crosses multiple rooms as it gives the rooms a sense of space and really pulls people in.

Next... your height.  Don't shoot the images always at your height.  Get down a little bit.  I'd say around chest-height.  First it's more complimentary to the room and avoids that "I'm looking down from on high" thing, and second it helps with perspective correction later.

###th... perspective correction.  This is a must-have, but I think the PCE lens is a waste, personally.  They are neat, but they are old-school- AND what's more is 24mm goes right against your width thing.  That is SO not going to work.  For $15 go buy PTLens and it gives you a very nice perspective correction tool that you can manipulate via a WYSIWYG interface.  Note that you WILL lose a small percentage of the image from the correction, but it's far less than you'll lose going from 14mm to 24mm.

Lighting... for complex setups, multiple flashes on remote triggers is great, but a good starter trick is to use a bounced flash on the camera with a longer shutter time (on a tripod).  This lights the room nicely and also allows ambient light to fill in.  It makes for a reasonably appealing setup for relatively little effort.  Also... TURN THE LIGHTS ON!  Anytime there is any kind of interior light fixture, make sure those are turned on for the shoot.  It makes the place look warm and alive.  (yes, even when using the flash)

Distractions... one of the big things that separates an ok RE photog from a great one is cleaning up distractions.  I carry cleaning supplies, a small tool set and duct tape wherever I go.  If there's stuff around that distracts, clean it up.  Check heights on window blinds, make sure ther isn't stuff lying around, organize magazines and remotes, watch to be sure the furniture looks neat and not frumpy, etc.  Details.  Details are KEY.  In your shot showing the driveway there's leaves or something on it.  Sweep them up before you shoot.  Little things like that detract a lot.  I  spend a good amount of time on my shoot with my camera down just looking around to see what is out of place and adjusting it.  (always remember to put things back, btw)

There's probably more, but that's a start.


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## yv0nne (Aug 9, 2012)

I was coming here to write a giant response (I shoot 5 houses/day..probably one of the few areas I actually know what I'm talking about ), but I'm pretty sure manaheim covered everything.

Not sure if it was said or not (it's late, I'm tired& only skimmed) but the MOST important thing in real estate is to shot SQUARE. Everything needs to be square. Your shots in the kitchen don't work because they are tilted down. You'll drastically cut back on your warped edges if you make sure the photo is squared up& level. Use a tripod .. use the level on it. I use mine like a monopod& just always make sure that it is square. I know real estate agents around here would chop me to pieces if I did HDR or really ANY post-processing other than a few minor adjustments.


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## jamesbjenkins (Aug 10, 2012)

Wow, Mannheim. Great advice. Thanks for asking the time to write it.

The part about not taking flat exteriors is big. Shooting chest level is big too. 

Couple concerns:

At 14mm, the distortion is killer once you get away from the center. How do you wide without worrying about having to crop later when you fix the distortion in post?

How do you shoot longer shutters with bounced flash during daylight hours without blowing out all your highlights and/or getting secular highlights everywhere?

Again, great advice. Thanks.


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## jamesbjenkins (Aug 10, 2012)

yv0nne said:
			
		

> I was coming here to write a giant response (I shoot 5 houses/day..probably one of the few areas I actually know what I'm talking about ), but I'm pretty sure manaheim covered everything.
> 
> Not sure if it was said or not (it's late, I'm tired& only skimmed) but the MOST important thing in real estate is to shot SQUARE. Everything needs to be square. Your shots in the kitchen don't work because they are tilted down. You'll drastically cut back on your warped edges if you make sure the photo is squared up& level. Use a tripod .. use the level on it. I use mine like a monopod& just always make sure that it is square. I know real estate agents around here would chop me to pieces if I did HDR or really ANY post-processing other than a few minor adjustments.



Yvonne, thanks for putting the square advice out there again. I'm never again going to shoot off-level. I'm still new to real estate shooting, and I honestly didn't consider the perspective distortion I caused from shooting at an angle. Won't make that mistake again!


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## manaheim (Aug 10, 2012)

jamesbjenkins said:


> Wow, Mannheim. Great advice. Thanks for asking the time to write it.
> 
> The part about not taking flat exteriors is big. Shooting chest level is big too.
> 
> ...



My pleasure.  PTLens will do some distortion correction for you automatically.  It's not perfect, but it's good.  I find that I generally have to crop off a bit of the extreme edge of the image after doing perspective correction anyway, and that extreme edge is where the distortion is most prevalent.  I've found that the combination of those two things makes for an acceptable end result.

As far as the long shutters and stuff, I sort of mixed up my methods.  I was trying to describe to you fill light and wound up explaining shutter-dragging.   Use a normal shutter time with the flash.  So expose it properly, but use the flash as fill and illumination.  Works well.  Also... one other tip... watch where you bounce the flash.  You're going to be right up against the wall and close to the ceiling, so if you point your flash in the wrong direction you're going to have a serious hotspot in the frame.


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## jamesbjenkins (Aug 10, 2012)

manaheim said:
			
		

> As far as the long shutters and stuff, I sort of mixed up my methods.  I was trying to describe to you fill light and wound up explaining shutter-dragging.   Use a normal shutter time with the flash.  So expose it properly, but use the flash as fill and illumination.  Works well.



Got it. You had me really confused for a second...


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## Heitz (Aug 10, 2012)

Who the hell designs a cabinet that angles upward?


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## jamesbjenkins (Aug 10, 2012)

Heitz said:
			
		

> Who the hell designs a cabinet that angles upward?



It's decorative. I asked the same question.


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