# Nikon MC-DC2 Remote Release Cord for HDR



## vipgraphx

So I have a question for you folks. I was going to post this in the nikon forum but thought perhaps this would be a better place to post. Does anyone use this [h=1]Nikon MC-DC2 Remote Release Cord for HDR? [/h]
This is how I have my camera set up. Hit the bracket button and the move my dial to the timer mode and there is a .5 second delay between shots with a two second timer delay before it fires the 3 shot series.

There are many times that the delay is to slow and I need a faster series (moving clouds) I came across a video on you tube where the guy sets up his D700 for a hdr burst and moves his dial to CH and it fires off super fast. I tried to do what his instructions said but with no luck. I have to hold down the shutter button for it to fire of the faster burst on CH.

I called to the local nikon retailer and they have the wired remote there and I was thinking of going and getting it. My question for you folks that use the D7000 are you using the same method as I do with the
timer delay mode on the dial or are do you have your camera set up to fire in CH without having to hold down the shutter? 

I would like to know before I go a spend $30 bucks on this remote. 

THANKS!!


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## Bynx

I wouldnt use the timer for HDR images. But then if you were shooting an interior where time was not a factor then it would be ok, but it would be labor intensive thinking about your shot, which one, then setting the timer and waiting. The MC-DC2 is ok but the cord is short. I highly recommend the PixL Oppilas Wireless Remote Control. Its good for up to 100 feet. It works flawlessly. Single shot, Continuous and Bulb settings with the flick of the switch.


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## 480sparky

As mentioned, why use the timer?
Set the camera up for MirrorUp, and fire away.


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## vipgraphx

Bynx is this what you use?


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## vipgraphx

480sparky said:


> As mentioned, why use the timer?
> Set the camera up for MirrorUp, and fire away.



When reading how to set up the D7000 this was the instructions I read. Go to Settings/ E 9braketing and flash / Select auto braketing set choose AE , next go to self timers and select interval of .5 seconds and choose timer delay.

next turn left dial to the timer function. This allows 3 shots with one hit of the button once you push the shutter button.

When i have done interiors or things that no not move this is fine and sometimes I will manually expose rather than bracket, but my question is there another in camera set up that will allow to use CH with one click of the shutter without having to use a remote?


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## ann

I use a Hahnel with a D700 which will allows more than 3 exposures, but it is about $80. Freewave makes a similar device, in fact they look alike for about $40, I use one of those with my olympus e pen 3  . they are both wireless and once I have the camera sit up i don't have to touch a thing except the control device


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## 480sparky

vipgraphx said:


> .............
> When reading how to set up the D7000 this was the instructions I read. Go to Settings/ E 9braketing and flash / Select auto braketing set choose AE , next go to self timers and select interval of .5 seconds and choose timer delay.
> 
> next turn left dial to the timer function. This allows 3 shots with one hit of the button once you push the shutter button...........



There's more than one way to skin a cat.

Another way is to not blindly follow 'instructions' unless you understand them.


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## vipgraphx

Sparky obviously you don't have the solution either or I would think you would pass on your knowledge rather than posting pointless comments and acting a fool.


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## 480sparky

vipgraphx said:


> Sparky obviously you don't have the solution either or I would think you would pass on your knowledge rather than posting pointless comments and acting a fool.



Obviously you missed post #3.


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## mistermonday

Maybe I am missing something but why wouldn't you just use the interval timer? You set your autobracket to the number of shots you want then go into the shooting menu, then hit the following sequence on your 5 way navigator control button: Right, Left, Up, and press the OK button.  Right goes to the bottom of the shooting menu which selects the Interval Timer. Left goes to the last item in the Interval Timer submenu which is "Start Now". Pressing the Up button instructs the Interval Timer to shoot now. OK commits the timer to fire. What happens and why?  When you set the Interval timer to only a single interval / shot, when it triggers and the camera is set to auto bracket, it will take the entire bracketing sequence as programmed in rapid succession as fast as it can fire (based on your exposure settings etc). I would think for what you are trying to accomplish, this would be more effective.
Regards, Murray


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## vipgraphx

mistermonday said:


> Maybe I am missing something but why wouldn't you just use the interval timer? You set your autobracket to the number of shots you want then go into the shooting menu, then hit the following sequence on your 5 way navigator control button: Right, Left, Up, and press the OK button.  Right goes to the bottom of the shooting menu which selects the Interval Timer. Left goes to the last item in the Interval Timer submenu which is "Start Now". Pressing the Up button instructs the Interval Timer to shoot now. OK commits the timer to fire. What happens and why?  When you set the Interval timer to only a single interval / shot, when it triggers and the camera is set to auto bracket, it will take the entire bracketing sequence as programmed in rapid succession as fast as it can fire (based on your exposure settings etc). I would think for what you are trying to accomplish, this would be more effective.
> Regards, Murray



Yes this is exactly what I was looking for!! I really appreciate your time and shedding some knowledge on this subject. I tried it and it worked the first time:hug::.


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## that1guy

i use the timer too as well since i dont have to push a shutter release and risk camera shake... i also use  Nikon ML-L3 Wireless Remote Control i got lucky and found this for 20$ when i had a D3000, i since upgraded to a D90 and was told it wouldnt work (they were wrong because it does) and lo and behold it works on the D7000 too


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## vipgraphx

that1guy said:


> i use the timer too as well since i dont have to push a shutter release and risk camera shake... i also use  Nikon ML-L3 Wireless Remote Control i got lucky and found this for 20$ when i had a D3000, i since upgraded to a D90 and was told it wouldnt work (they were wrong because it does) and lo and behold it works on the D7000 too



I can only use the ML-L3 when the knob is set to remote other wise it wont fire....Are you using it in a different mode? 

I just got back from the nikon dealer with the mc-dc2 and it works like a charm without having to go into the menu and do those adjustments  but I may take it back since I read the post from  mistermondayand that worked.

If you can explain more about he ML-L3 on how you use it I would appreciate it!


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## that1guy

vipgraphx said:


> that1guy said:
> 
> 
> 
> i use the timer too as well since i dont have to push a shutter release and risk camera shake... i also use  Nikon ML-L3 Wireless Remote Control i got lucky and found this for 20$ when i had a D3000, i since upgraded to a D90 and was told it wouldnt work (they were wrong because it does) and lo and behold it works on the D7000 too
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I can only use the ML-L3 when the knob is set to remote other wise it wont fire....Are you using it in a different mode?
> 
> I just got back from the nikon dealer with the mc-dc2 and it works like a charm without having to go into the menu and do those adjustments  but I may take it back since I read the post from  mistermondayand that worked.
> 
> If you can explain more about he ML-L3 on how you use it I would appreciate it!
Click to expand...


I shoot with a d7000 too

all i do is change the knob on top to the little remote next "MUP" and click the button on the remote works like a charm (just make sure that ur aiming at the IR sensor or it wont work this is my primary method if im trying to capture images in a hurry if im not in a rush ill use the timer method it shoots all three exposures automatically so i never have to touch the camera once i press the shutter release the first time) you can go into the menu and set it to release the shutter right away or have a timer delay i personally just have it fire immediately


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## Bynx

Ive posted a few times here the step by step instructions on how to program your D7000 for HDR shooting using the 2 User Modes. No mention of timers. You can set those modes up for 5,  7 or 9 shots. 
I purchased the ML-L3 since it was pretty cheap. And so that must tell you something if Nikon sells something cheap. Its junk. I had too many problems with it and it now sits in my camera bag. As already mentioned you must move the dial to Special Function for the Remote. So burst shots arent possible since you cant also select CH. There is also a time limit the remote will work with the camera. After a few minutes it shuts off and you have to start again. Spend the hundred bucks and get the Oppilas Wireless Remote. You wont regret it.
I dont know where you got your instructions for setting up for HDR but they dont sound right to me. Since the D7000 will only do 3 bracketed shots at a time you must do 3 banks of 3 bracketed shots to cover a 9 fstop range. So U1 for 3 shots, A for 3 shots, and U2 for 3 shots done with the method I mentioned at the beginning of this post. Each bank of 3 you must click the shutter once holding the button while camera is on CH so you get the 3 shot burst. This isnt the instantaneous 9 shot burst we all would like to have. We have to click the shutter for a 3 burst set while in U1, then we must move the dial to A and do another 3 burst set, then to U2 for the last 3 burst set. It can be done fairly quickly except if dealing with long exposures in dim light. If you have Noise Reduction on for long exposures then double that time again. In the real world you have to remember which shot you are on because if you screw up and forget then the sequence might not be right. Your camera with take 3 shots regardless of your settings and getting out of sequence is fairly easy. To be honest, I just recommend finding the most underexposed or the most overexposed shot for the situation and just click up or down the scale to cover all the dynamic range.


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## that1guy

Bynx said:


> Ive posted a few times here the step by step instructions on how to program your D7000 for HDR shooting using the 2 User Modes. No mention of timers. You can set those modes up for 5,  7 or 9 shots.
> I purchased the ML-L3 since it was pretty cheap. And so that must tell you something if Nikon sells something cheap. Its junk. I had too many problems with it and it now sits in my camera bag. As already mentioned you must move the dial to Special Function for the Remote. So burst shots arent possible since you cant also select CH. There is also a time limit the remote will work with the camera. After a few minutes it shuts off and you have to start again. Spend the hundred bucks and get the Oppilas Wireless Remote. You wont regret it.
> I dont know where you got your instructions for setting up for HDR but they dont sound right to me. Since the D7000 will only do 3 bracketed shots at a time you must do 3 banks of 3 bracketed shots to cover a 9 fstop range. So U1 for 3 shots, A for 3 shots, and U2 for 3 shots done with the method I mentioned at the beginning of this post. Each bank of 3 you must click the shutter once holding the button while camera is on CH so you get the 3 shot burst.



i press the button 3 times with my remote it fires right away i paid 20$ for mine and i never have any problems it works great for me i guess its user prefrence the built in timer feature on the D7000 itself will take 3 burst shots with me only having to press the shutter release once ... theres are so many ways to capture the bracketed shots i guess you have to find the method you prefer yourself i have my own 

but i did use your instructions on how to setup my camera for the U1 and U2 ranges and i use it when i shoot


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## Bynx

I didnt like the presets for the remote. You select whether the camera waits 1 minute, 5 minutes, 10 minutes or 15 minutes for a signal from the remote. If none comes it switches the remote mode off. Then you have to start again. When I used the remote I was doing some finicky setup stuff and if you go get a drink of water or take a break or take too long setting up you have to reset the camera for remote. With the Oppilas you dont have to worry about that. Its always there when you want it and the camera isnt waiting for the signal. So there is no battery drain like the ML-L3. I also found it didnt work that well from behind the camera and worked better when it was pointed towards the front of the camera. And the distance it was useable was pretty short. If you have the camera set up by a bird feeder you can be 100 feet away and take your shot. I tested it out and it was even further than that since there was a clear view.


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## that1guy

i dunno which remote youre using but mine shoots right away as soon as i press the button 

i can set up the remote to have a 2 or 5 second delay if i choose


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## vipgraphx

Bynx said:


> Spend the hundred bucks and get the Oppilas Wireless Remote. You wont regret it..




I looked for that and it seems like its sold over seas...maybe I did not look hard enough. I checked Amazon and ebay and a few other places and they all said china/hong kong. 



Bynx said:


> I dont know where you got your instructions for setting up for HDR but they dont sound right to me. .



The instructions were on you tube but for fast burt on a D700 I know it was not intended for the D7000 3 bracketed shots but it made me think about finding a way to take my brackets faster.
Up until now I have relied on the method of setting my knob to the timer and pushing the shutter button down once and it would delay 2 seconds and take a shot every .5 seconds. As you know this is not cutting the mustard with 
sunsets and moving clouds. So I thought I should start looking into something else.

I bought the nikon MC-DC2 and just figured I would by this for now it was $30 bucks and I do not want to spend to much more $$ into this D7000 as I am thinking about either buying a D800 or waiting for the D400. From what the dealer told me about the D400 is that it should be announced soon and its going to have a super fast burst and 9 bracketed shots but, something called photo binning and other great features. I know its all assumption unless dealers get inside scoop.

I would not mind upgrading to a full frame but, I am not sure I want to vest that type of money in glass. I do have the 70-200 and would need the 14-24 right away . Since I have the 50 1.8g I figure I would be ok for now and maybe invest in the 24-70 in the future. But you add all that up and that is a lot of $$$$$ for a person of my caliber. Thus why the dealer said to just wait until the D400 is announced and it would probably perfect for what I want and should range in price of $1700-$2000 for the body. 

I  just wished they made a little better DX glass. I love my Tokina 12-24 but it would be nice to have something with nano coating to help glare and ghosting without spending $2000 on the 14-24. 

Cheers and thanks for all your helpful info.


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## Bynx

that1guy. Check your manual page 215 I think. It shows the menu for the ML-L3 remote.


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