# What chemicals to get?



## TarterTurtle (Feb 21, 2020)

Hi,
    I recently got a developing tank from one of my dad's co-workers and am wondering what chemicals to get. The cheapest at freestylephoto is Arista but I don't know if it's any good. I was considering using Caffinol but decided not to because I am new to this and want to start simple. So what chemicals do you recommend? Thanks
    Nathan


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## webestang64 (Feb 21, 2020)

For the beginner you can't go wrong with good old Kodak D-76 and standard Kodak fixer. Pre-wash with water, Developer (time dependent on film).... And you do not really need stop bath, just run water through the tank twice after development and then fix 5-10 min. Wash for about 30 min then use Photo-Flo, hang to dry, no need to use a squeegee.


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## jcdeboever (Feb 21, 2020)

Kodak HC110 is economical and versatile.


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## Derrel (Feb 21, 2020)

D-76 or HC-110 for film developer,regular grocery store white vinegar for stop bath, and I really came to like the pre-mixed Ilford fixer.

For photo paper I think Kodak Polycontrast Rapid resin coated (RC) is the most economical choice, and you have the luxury of changing the grade of paper contrast with a filter set. Ilford also makes fine photographic paper and they also have a multigrade resin coated paper available in at least two finishes, glossy and Pearl.

D-76 and HC-110 are both good film developers, and I will admit that when I was in college I used to use used HC-110 that had developed film to make my contact sheets. I made most of my contacts sheets on Kodak RC paper, and while I don't think it works as well as Kodak Dektol to develop paper, HC -110 will work.


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## Derrel (Feb 21, 2020)

While Kodak Photo-Flo is a good anti-waterspot agent, I have had good results using two drops of liquid dishwashing detergent in one full gallon of water. You don't want lots of bubbles.

As far as squeegeeing water from developed film, for many years I have used my index finger and my middle finger and simply gently slid them along the length of the film, and then hung the film to dry in a dust-free room. Paper towels and toilet paper and even hand towels can create microscopic lint which will find its way to developing film. One of the best ways to hang film to dry is with a strong spring clipon top and a clip on the bottom. Clothespins can work too.


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## Derrel (Feb 21, 2020)

If you are using hc-110 as a One-Shot developer you need a small one oz graduated cylinder to measure it out accurately and super consistently. It was my practice to rinse the graduate with the developing water 6 times. Hc-110 is a thick liquid. Some people use a small syringe to measure out 1/4 ounce needed with 7 and 1/2 oz of water or roughly 1/2 ounce of syrup and 15 oz of water to develop two 35 mm rolls of film.


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## compur (Feb 21, 2020)

Arista 76 developer is fine. It is a generic form of Kodak D76, the most popular B&W developer of all time.

BTW, HC-110 is a new formula now. It's not a thick syrup anymore but it produces the same results, per Kodak.


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## webestang64 (Feb 21, 2020)

Derrel said:


> I have used my index finger and my middle finger and simply gently slid them along the length of the film,



I still would not even do that. But then I develop about 100 rolls a month for other people and do not ever want to take a risk of scratching their film.


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## Derrel (Feb 21, 2020)

When you are using a One-Shot developer as opposed to a premix, it is absolutely imperative that you measure the quantity accurately and repeatably... when you are measuring out 1/4 of an ounce there is very little leeway for error. Follow the same procedure every time.

With a premixed developer, you do not need to be so precise... you will have after all mixed up an entire gallon of working solution. Many people use D-76 diluted 1:1 with water.... I used it that way most of the time.


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## Derrel (Feb 21, 2020)

webestang64 said:


> Derrel said:
> 
> 
> > I have used my index finger and my middle finger and simply gently slid them along the length of the film,
> ...



I do not think this will ever scratch a film. I used to be a darkroom Tech at a daily newspaper and typically I would develop four tanks full every night for about 2 and 1/2 years, typically up to 16 rolls a night...never had a problem. I do not see how fingers would scratch film...

I think if your photo flow is mixed absolutely correctly as in not too strong, there is not really that much need to wipe the film. One older guy that I used to know back in the early 1980s told me that he just snapped the film between his two hands, and another guy that I knew used to take the film and whip it, like one would do with a bullwhip or with a towel...


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## Derrel (Feb 21, 2020)

There are two types of film drying systems that are available. In one rolls are hung vertically in a tall cabinet. In the other system the developing reel with the film still on them , are fed into a tube and forced air is blown on the reels. Either system is much faster that just plain air drying.


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## petrochemist (Feb 22, 2020)

I find Caffeine & ethanol are good choices. It seems the caffeine can also be used for film developing (search Caffinol) but I've not tried it for that


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## jcdeboever (Feb 22, 2020)

For whats its worth, I use jet dry (dishwasher dryer liquid) as my photo flow.


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## Derrel (Feb 22, 2020)

I used Lemon Joy...


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## vintagesnaps (Feb 22, 2020)

I  would suggest just starting out that you learn and use proper techniques. Then you can experiment and try other methods later on.

I've never used Arista but it's geared to students and should be fine. I used a darkroom at a local university that used Sprint (also budget friendly and geared for students). Worked fine.

I haven't developed film in a long time. I know the measuring is important and so is the timing. (Agitate, tap-tap to get out air bubbles...) You can find darkroom tongs, squeegees etc. fairly cheap.

Might be a good idea to practice loading the film spools. If you end up with a roll you develop that didn't turn out (gee, I've never done that!) you can sit and practice spooling with that (or cut off part of the roll if it turns out and you want to save part of it to scan/make prints eventually).

edit - Oh, and it's usually referred to as chemistry, at least that's what I learned years ago.


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## Derrel (Feb 22, 2020)

A good book would be a copy of The Darkroom, one of the series in the Time-Life library of photography. It is well-illustrated and well-written and it is widely available from used book stores. Your local library might even have a copy. The Time-Life library of photography has some amazing books, and I learned a huge amount of my basic photography knowledge from that series of books. The books are large format and profusely Illustrated and retail for around five bucks each these days. I think there were 23 volumes in all, but I'm not sure.


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## vintagesnaps (Feb 22, 2020)

That, and old photo books/pamplets talk about what is now vintage such as darkroom stuff, etc. I have an old Kodak data guide I think... (Derrel would know what I mean!).

Is there by chance ever a camera swap in your area? I've bought darkroom supplies and had them offering to cart old photo paper out to my car they were so glad to throw it in free and get rid of it! (I use it for lumen prints.)

The thing I wonder about caffenol is how archivally safe it will be over time. B&W negatives and prints done in film chemistry seem to last indefinitely. And, if I smelled coffee I might accidently drink it! lol

edit - Have you looked at Home - The Film Photography Project ? You might try them.


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## TarterTurtle (Feb 22, 2020)

Thanks. I have been practicing loading the film into a spool with an old roll of film that I got. I will check out the fpp. I hadn't even thought of them. Thanks again


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## webestang64 (Feb 22, 2020)

vintagesnaps said:


> That, and old photo books/pamphlets talk about what is now vintage such as darkroom stuff, etc.



$2 each....thrift store.


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## vintagesnaps (Feb 23, 2020)

Groovy in the darkroom.


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