# Just found an old film Canon EOS3000 - what to do now?  :-)



## Venture2099 (Aug 18, 2014)

Hi all, I am new here. 

For the last 3 or 4 years I have dabbled in DSLR photography taking some decent photos; even winning a few competitions.  I am not bashful about admitting it was mostly the camera.  My composition skills and artistic focus is decent but my technical skills (lenses, metering, lighting) are poor.

Due to time constraints I sold my last DSLR (Olympus e500) 2 years ago but this morning I just found an old Canon EOS3000 in a box.  It looks to be in fairly good condition and just needs a clean.  Next month I am climbing Mount Triglav in the Alps for charity and also swinging by Venice so I thought I would bring it along.

It was then that I realised I am a child of the digital age and know nothing about real photography :blushing:

My questions are thus -



What film do we use for a film camera?
Are normal drugstore/supermarket developers OK for film cameras or will they use sub-standard processes?
How do I move forward learning about film photography?  (contact sheets, developing, etc)
Can anyone tell me anything about the EOS3000?

I am actually really excited to be using film - I just want to know as much as possible.  Who should I read?  Which books?

Sorry for the splurge of questions haha.  You know what it is like when you have a new thing to shoot with and it has been so long!

I will def post the results to the forum when I get back.


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## PWhite214 (Aug 18, 2014)

Nice find.  You did not mention what lens you have, but I assume you have at least one.
Here is my checkout method:
First thing is download the manual, Canon EOS 3000N / 3000N Date instruction manual, user manual, PDF manual, free manuals.  Read it. Then find the required batteries and see if everything works.  For a first test, drug store film and processing will be fine.  If the camera seems to work, get a roll of color negative film, shoot using aperture priority and different aperture settings.  Don't forget to check the ISO setting on the camera, it must match the film.  Have the film processed and scanned to CD (usually the least expensive option, you don't need the prints).  Go home and look at the photos.

Using different apertures will force different shutter speeds. Looking at the scans will if the film transport, metering system, lens and shutter are all working.

If everything works, then move on to learning more.

Phil


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## tirediron (Aug 18, 2014)

You use the film that provides the result you want; im simplest terms, film is an SD card where you cannot change the ISO or White Balance once you insert it in the camera, so you need to use the correct one. Broadly speaking, film is either slide (positive) or print (negative) film. Negative is generally easier to work with as it's a little more forgiving, and not all that many people use slides any more. Next you have to decide whether you want film for bright or dim lighting. If you know you'll be shooting out of doors in bright sun, a slower film such as ASA/ISO 100 would be a good choice, if you know you'll be inside or shooting at night, something much faster such as 1600 is likely a better choice. Lastly, you need to consider the colour balance. If you're going to be shooting outside or with flash, then you want daylight balanced film, if indoors, then you want film balanced for those lighting conditions.

Most supermarkets now ship their film off to large labs; I would ask them where they process their film, but chances are it'll be a big lab with decent results. 

There is a ton of information on the 'net about film and many 'sites dedicated solely to film. As well, almost every garage sale I've been to in the last few years has had a stack of books for dirt-cheap on "old-school" photography.

Sorry... I know nuzzink about Canon film bodies.


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## limr (Aug 18, 2014)

I'm always excited when someone wants to try film! :mrgreen:

I can't help you with the actual camera, though I do second the suggestion to download the manual.

Tirediron gave good information about film in general. What I will add to that is if you really want to get the most out of the film experience, don't get drug store film or use their development. The film might be old (some people like that - I for one enjoy playing with expired film - but if you're used to the crispness of digital, you don't want old film.) More importantly, however, their developing machines might not be getting the use that they once did, so the chemicals might be old, the machines might be dirty or gunked up, and the stores may no longer employ people who are still skilled in film developing so they might screw something up.

I'm not sure where you are in the UK, but you actually probably have better access to film and developing than we do here on the other side of the pond. There might still be some film stores/labs that are around you that you just never noticed because you didn't need them. I'd do a quick search for local places to buy film and get it developed. Here's a list of film suppliers in the UK from another forum: Film suppliers in the UK - A list.

In the meantime, also check out online sources: B&H, Adorama, Freestyle, even Amazon. Those are big suppliers - not sure about the shipping costs to the UK, though.

For specific films, I would suggest Kodak Portra 160 for shots from the climb. It's a low ISO and you'll probably be dealing with bright conditions on the mountain - even if it is kind of cloudy. And the colors are gorgeous. And I'm not sure if you've been there before, but that area of Slovenia is just stunningly beautiful. If you get a chance to visit Lake Bohinj, do it. And you'll want color for that because the color of the water is a gorgeous deep blue. I just came back last week from Slovenia, actually, and shot several rolls of Portra 160 while I was there.

For Venice, I would probably go for black and white. Kodak Tri-X is a classic film - beautiful tones and good tolerance. It's a higher speed film - ISO 400 - but you can still easily shoot that outdoors with a camera that has faster shutter speeds to compensate for the increased light sensitivity. In a city like Venice, I'd think black and white would better capture a more timeless feel. If you'd like something with slightly less grain (but also slightly less tolerance of the wrong exposure), try the Kodak Tmax films - you can get ISO 100 and 400.

As for developing yourself, you can do that easily without having to build a darkroom. A darkroom is necessary if you're planning on doing your own wet printing at some point, but it will be less intimidating to just start with developing and then scanning the negatives (either at a commercial place or buying your own scanner.) All you need is a changing bag (to load the film in the dark without worrying about light-proofing a room), a developing tank, the chemicals, and a way to hang the film to dry (the bathroom is best but you might have to jury-rig a way to hang the film off the shower rod or something.)


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