# Photography for an online clothing boutique....



## stringmusic24

My wife and I recently opened a clothing boutique and now have aspirations of taking our business online. Unfortunately, neither of us has the first clue about taking good pictures. We might have to hire a professional to help us for a while, but we eventually want to bring the photography in house and I'm willing to put in the work to learn how to take adequate fashion photographs. 

These are the style of images we are after:

*Per TPF FAQ please do not post images to which you do not hold rights.  You may post links. 

*If anyone would be so kind as to offer some advice on how to achieve photos like this or could direct me to a resource with that information, I would be most appreciative. I'm looking for info on everything (lights, cameras, backdrops, editing software, etc.). We don't have a ton of money to throw at this so we want to make sure we spend wisely. Thanks so much for your time.


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## nycphotography

(You didn't say where you are located....  It could make a big difference in being able to rent or borrow equipment or studio space and find mentors to help you.)

The bad news is that photography is an acquired skill that's built on an artistic eye... it can be very hard to "just get up to speed" so to speak.

The good news is that you have the luxury of knowing exactly what you want to achieve, so you are starting w/ something of an "eye" towards what you want to produce, and you can be laser focused in your learning.


You will need some studio space, specialized equipment, plus a decent camera.  You will then need to learn to use the specialized equipment and to interact w/ the models to produce the result you want... and that will ultimately be the hard part.

I'd recommend working to achieve the look you want using each other as models first.  Then eventually, when you are close but just not quite there, hire a pro to come do a shoot where you can observe and learn how he "perfects" your work in progress.

You will need (at a minimum)
a 15 x 15 studio space, preferably w/ a 10ft or 12ft ceiling
seamless white background paper
background stand
one medium to high power monolight with stand with softbox (for the main light)
additional medium power monolight with stand w/ softbox or grid for background light
one white bounce card (you can cut up a 4x8 sheet of foamcore into a 4x4, and two 4x2 bounce cards. w/ a bounce stand

You may also want:
possibly one or two more monolights w/ stands and softboxes and/or grids for fill lights, hair lights, accent lights etc.
a box full of props and accessories and shoes for styling the shoots
a big ol box of makeup and hair stuff
a WELL LIT makeup table and chair and enough space to put it.

Excepting for the studio space, you can probably get most of this for under $1500 and definitely for under $2500.

A GOOD (fixed f2.8 preferred) zoom lens in an appropriate focal length for your studio space.  Longer lenses are better (you really don't want to shoot catalog at less than a 85mm equivalent), but longer lenses require a deeper shooting space so compromise will likely have to be made.  The lens may cost between $500 and $2000 depending on your camera, new vs used, and the focal lengths you end up with.

And LOTS of time spen tpracticing and shooting and reviewing and researching and practicing and shooting and reviewing and researching and practicing and shooting and reviewing and researching and practicing and shooting and reviewing and researching and...


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## Big Mike

Welcome aboard.

I'm glad that you mentioned hiring a professional, that is probably your best bet.  

It's not all that complicated to set up your own studio space for getting something specific like this, but getting good quality shots will require skills & knowledge that may take years to build.


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## Derrel

I think you might wish to read the Zack Arias on-line tutorial about white background shooting methods.


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## nycphotography

To really learn to do this "right" you'll need a light / flash meter.  

But you can also work using your digital as a polaroid, balancing the lighting through trial and error.  The catch with this approach is that many cameras "try to optimize" the image for display, meaning you may not notice under exposure until you get it in post and it's too late.

If you don't have a light meter... it will be essential to learn to use the histogram in your camera.


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## nycphotography

Oh... and you can use the boutique as a draw for other photographers to come "mentor you" as they get the experience and material for their portfolio.

 Be honest and up front about what you are looking for (learning and training)... but photographers will often come shoot just for access to the wardrobe and models (which you can find on the modeling sites either cheap or TFP).


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## Steve5D

A lot of online clothing retailers don't use models at all, and there's no mention of models in the OP. 

I have a friend who owns a guitar store up in Canada, and he takes some pretty impressive photos of guitars using a walk-in closet as his "studio". He's got a couple of lights with diffusers, and some reflectors. His total investment in "studio equipment" was probably less than $600.00...


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## The_Traveler

Have a look at these galleries done by a guitar-maker using a P&S and a little artistry.
William's GUITARS


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## nycphotography

Steve5D said:


> A lot of online clothing retailers don't use models at all, and there's no mention of models in the OP.
> 
> I have a friend who owns a guitar store up in Canada, and he takes some pretty impressive photos of guitars using a walk-in closet as his "studio". He's got a couple of lights with diffusers, and some reflectors. His total investment in "studio equipment" was probably less than $600.00...



The OP had two pictures with models as the "desired result", and working with models takes considerably more room than working in the flat.


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## stringmusic24

I REALLY appreciate the replies from you all. What a great resource y'all have here.....

How much should I expect to spend on a DSLR camera that could achieve these types of photos? Are there preferred brands/models that won't break the bank? 
Also, any recommendations for softboxes? Lighting thus far has been a bigger hurdle than I could have predicted, tough I'm guessing that could also be attributed to a deficiency in our camera equipment.


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## vintagesnaps

You said you and your wife don't have a clue about taking good pictures... don't you think you're going to need professional quality photos to have your website look professional? In time you might be able to develop your photography skills to the point of being able to do your own photos for your site, but starting out I think using amateur quality photos could make your boutique business look less than professional.


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## KmH

It is the photographer's skill and knowledge that ultimately determines image quality.

For products, lighting is so very important. When shooting products, sometimes 'lighting' means subtracting light.

An often recommended product photographer's lighting bible is the first 2/3 of this inexpensive book - Light: Science and Magic: An Introduction to Photographic Lighting
The last 1/3 of the book covers the fundamentals of portrait lighting.

Once you have the lighting down, a basic entry-level DSLR will be sufficient. Nikon D5100 16.2MP CMOS Digital SLR Camera with 3-Inch Vari-Angle LCD Monitor (Body Only)


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## Designer

stringmusic24; whether you learn enough quickly enough to take your own pictures, I think you  should try to learn as much as you can, even if it is only to be able to judge the quality of a professional's idea of product photography.  

You should be able to tell the difference between really good and ho-hum.  I'm assuming that you would prefer the really good.

If the professional that you interview can't do any better than you can just starting out, then at least you know you're on the right track.


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## nycphotography

the d5100 will suffice.  A used 10ish MP nikon or canon will also more than suffice.

Where are you located?


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## stringmusic24

nycphotography said:


> the d5100 will suffice.  A used 10ish MP nikon or canon will also more than suffice.
> 
> Where are you located?



NYC, I'm in Birmingham, Alabama.


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## nycphotography

Ah then I'm afraid I don't know anyone who can help you out first hand.


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## Steve5D

nycphotography said:


> Steve5D said:
> 
> 
> 
> A lot of online clothing retailers don't use models at all, and there's no mention of models in the OP.
> 
> I have a friend who owns a guitar store up in Canada, and he takes some pretty impressive photos of guitars using a walk-in closet as his "studio". He's got a couple of lights with diffusers, and some reflectors. His total investment in "studio equipment" was probably less than $600.00...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The OP had two pictures with models as the "desired result", and working with models takes considerably more room than working in the flat.
Click to expand...


Oh. Well, the photos had been removed, and no link was provided in their place.

Still, I'd ditch the models and buy some mannequins. They don't complain, don't need bathroom breaks, and they do exactly as directed...


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## stringmusic24

If I decided to go with mannequins instead of models, should I then opt for continuous rather than strobe lighting given that I'm a novice? 

NYC, when you say high/medium powered monolights, how many WS are we talking? Any brands or models that are cost effective and of decent quality? 

Thanks a bunch.


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## Big Mike

Yes, if you were going to go with mannequins, then constant lighting may be a valid option.  But I still think strobes are more useful if you may ever shoot anything else.



> Check out the Flashpoint line from Adorama.


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## Designer

stringmusic24 said:


> If I decided to go with mannequins instead of models, should I then opt for continuous rather than strobe lighting given that I'm a novice?
> 
> NYC, when you say high/medium powered monolights, how many WS are we talking? Any brands or models that are cost effective and of decent quality?
> 
> Thanks a bunch.



I don't think being a novice makes using continuous lighting any easier than learning strobes.  I think NYC's comment "high/medium powered monolights" was for live models.  If you use mannequins or even just pin the garments to a board, you can get by with less power.  If less power, then you might want to mount your camera on a tripod.  

Another well-known poster on here likes the Speedotron line, and there are others.  Get real lucky and find good equipment lightly used for half of new.

While you're doing all this research, have a look at how other retailers show their wares.  Pay close attention to how the merchandise is photographed, and try to emulate it.


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## nycphotography

Alien Bees come in 3 power levels.  b400, 8600, b1600.  medium is a b800, high is a b1600.

Some say alien bees have color balance issues.  I find color is subjective to a greater degree, and monitors vary to a greater degree, than the alien bees are actually "off".  shoot raw and you can "fix" the color to whatever you think it should be.

To "get started" I'd suggest a b800 ($270), a 13' air cushioned stand ($69) and a 30x60 softbox ($159), and a $10 sync cord.  

background stand and paper for $100.  Flashpoint 10' Background Support Stand with White seamless background #BS10KIT BS10KIT 
I'd find this to be rather narrow, in which case the larger, wider stands Flashpoint 13ft High, Standing Background Support Stand BS13 which can accomodate both wide (10') and narrow paper.

*Use your wife as a model to practice posing, lighting, makeup, hair, etc until you care getting good exposures* (excepting the background which will tend to be underlit and gradient gray with falloff to the edges rather than pure white.  You can "fix it in post", using photoshop (or gimp which is free, but harder to get lessons on) to make the background white, but that's way labor intensive.

Wider paper comes into play when you have the lights how you want them but you want a different angle... with wider paper you have more latitude to move yourself around the model and lights and still stay on the background.  With narrow paper, you almost always have to move the model (could be a pain and miss a good "look") and often then move the lights (definitely a pain / delay / mood killer).

Once you are getting good exposures, you can pick up a b400 and maybe a 10x36 strip box and a grid set.   This can be used either for background lighting (make the white really be white) or for accent / fill / hair lighting.  You won't need it until you start posting pictures and people start pointing out the important details being lost in the shadows or how you can make the images pop w/ accents / fill.

Someone else will have to suggest cameras, but I expect a suitable used 10MP DX Nikon Body that works well w/ sync flash with a DECENT kit lens to be $500 to $750 at the high end.  If the kit lens seems soft, not to worry, you can sharpen in post and you'll be downrezzing considerably as your web site won't likely show images over 1024 pixels in height (and probably always in portrait orientation).  It will be more than suitable for your intended use.


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## stringmusic24

Thanks again, NYC. I'm researching all of these suggestions. 

I read Zack Aria's tutorial on white background photography and I must say it was incredibly helpful. Just utilizing a couple tips I went from this:

 to this:  
Obviously I've done no styling of the clothes. This is taken with just an iPhone 5 and 3 utility lights. Clearly not professional quality, but clearly a step in the right direction.


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## Designer

Oh, yes, I see an improvement!  You've still got room for improvement.  

Possibly customers would not notice, but photographers will notice the neckline shadow and the backdrop shadows, and some uneven lighting, but you're on the right track.  

Now some styling and accessories for props, and you'll have it.


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## joel28

nycphotography said:


> .
> 
> A GOOD (fixed f2.8 preferred) zoom lens in an appropriate focal length for your studio space.  Longer lenses are better (you really don't want to shoot catalog at less than a 85mm equivalent), but longer lenses require a deeper shooting space so compromise will likely have to be made.  The lens may cost between $500 and $2000 depending on your camera, new vs used, and the focal lengths you end up with.



Why minimum 85mm? Because of the distortion?


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## nycphotography

joel28 said:


> nycphotography said:
> 
> 
> 
> .
> 
> A GOOD (fixed f2.8 preferred) zoom lens in an appropriate focal length for your studio space.  Longer lenses are better (you really don't want to shoot catalog at less than a 85mm equivalent), but longer lenses require a deeper shooting space so compromise will likely have to be made.  The lens may cost between $500 and $2000 depending on your camera, new vs used, and the focal lengths you end up with.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Why minimum 85mm? Because of the distortion?
Click to expand...


More or less.  You also want to flatten the field somewhat.  I'd say (85mm equivalent) isn't so much a rule as a guideline.  

But as you go wider (and therefore closer with the camera), you tend to get more weird effects like tapering legs and arms and small feet and hands that can make the catalog seem off.

Unless your whole motif for the fashion line is "funky", in which case who knows what you could get away with.  But then those would be the editorial shots... and you'll still probably want normal shots (and flats) for the individual products.


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## stringmusic24

Ok, so I'm making some progress....I think. 

I bought a D5100 and I'm really immersing myself in a bunch of photography literature. My photos have gotten better, but I think it's time to spring for some high quality lighting if I'm going to go from this: 

to something more like this:
http://productshots0.modcloth.com/p...d994a17534f2dbf66936d6c91f3c81.jpg?1369172601

Correct me if I'm wrong, but I probably need a fill light opposite my main light and I need a light capable of blowing out the background. The Alien Bees Busy Bee package looks intriguing to me and I've found it used for about half price of retail. Would this be a package that you would recommend for this kind of studio photography? It seems to be highly thought of. 

Thanks for the continued assistance.


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## tirediron

You're definitely making progress!  For what you're doing, a simple high-key setup can be acheived with three lights 200 w/s per light will be more than adequate.  Alien Bees, Flashpoints, or Elinchrom 'D' Lites will work just fine for this.  Two lights into softboxes for the background and one into a large softbox (>48x48") as the key for the clothing and you'll be in business.  Set your key so you get an nice, bright, but NOT blown even subject and then set your background lights 1/3 stop over that and you should be in busines.  If you want to get really tricky, you can gel the background lights with different colours to produce all sorts of interesting effects.


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## Designer

The Busy Bee package looks like a good place to begin.  As you are talking to the Buff people, tell them what you're doing, and they will make suggestions, and perhaps make a few substitutions in the package.


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## de_tec_tive

i don't know what to suggest in terms of the equipment side of things, i've but i've done alot of product photography (although it was all similar products) and i did clothing for a little while. once you've perfected getting the photo to look good, you might want to also consider having the background removed with a clipping path, and also watch out for the pole on the mannequin showing through the fabric. when i did clothing for magazines we shot it on a mannequin, then shot the clothing flat and photoshopped the back into the first shot so you can see the neck line and tag (if that makes sense). 
i'm assuming you don't have much experience with editing though, but this is something you can outsource - i use Clipping Path | Photoshop Masking | Raster to Vector | Image Manipulation Service and they're cheap and quite good. 

at the end of the day though, professional images portray a professional business. there's so many times where i've dealt with clients to did things themselves and thought their photos looked good enough, but when you compare them to what else it out there, they're just not good enough. 
i think it's great that you want to learn, but i think in this case you should really get a professional to do it. perhaps you could find someone to do the initial shots to get the site up and running, and continue to learn and try to emulate what the photographer did for the future?


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## Whiskeyjack

Wow. That last shot really is an improvement. Also, I think I might have to snag that lighting set up for myself for the stuff I'm going to be working on soon. O_O Thanks for the link!


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## stringmusic24

Ok, I'm still working away at this. I missed out on the Alien Bees, so I'm going to wait it out until another good deal comes along. I have been playing around with Lightroom some tonight. Correct me if I'm wrong, but I think I was having some color temperature issues due to the fact that I'm using incandescent bulbs. Everything looks real warm and kind of yellowed (some are worse than the image above). So I've corrected the white balance in Lightroom and this is what I'm ending up with. 



Thoughts? Is this something I could potentially correct on the camera (d5100)? It feels like another step in the right directions, but that's just to my untrained eye.


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## tirediron

Again, definite progress.  Yes, I'd say you were definitely having WB issues.  You can either account for that in-camera by using a product like the Expo disc to set a custom WB in-camera, or use a grey card so that you can accurately set your WB in post.  Either will work well.


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## stringmusic24

Well, I bought some lights and they have made a world of difference. I got two Alien Bees B800s and a Giant Softbox. I'm using a foam core bounce card opposite the soft box to soften the shadows. What do you think? Do y'all see anything that looks askew? I've corrected the dark spot at lower right.


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## tirediron

Looks MUCH better; good exposure, 'though I might try boosting the saturation just a tad, but I think you're miles ahead of where you started.


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## stringmusic24

tirediron said:


> Looks MUCH better; good exposure, 'though I might try boosting the saturation just a tad, but I think you're miles ahead of where you started.



Thanks! I'll give that a try.


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## nycphotography

stringmusic24 said:


> tirediron said:
> 
> 
> 
> Looks MUCH better; good exposure, 'though I might try boosting the saturation just a tad, but I think you're miles ahead of where you started.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks! I'll give that a try.
Click to expand...


Much much better.  You're definitely on the right track.

Rather than say 'boost the saturation', I might suggest you look at the dress and then look at the picture, and decide if you'd be disappointed if you ordered it based on the picture that the dress doesn't match either in color or saturation.  For all I know, you already have too much saturation.  Or maybe too little.  Or maybe it's not orange enough.  Or who knows ;-)

Now that you have flat even lighting, the next step is to start learning how to put directional light back into it to get structure and definition.  For example, to show style lines and seam details.

Also, you can start working capturing any fabric textures that may be relevant.  For example, if that dress is a loose crepe, you'll want to do a close up of the fabric to show it.  That shot will almost certainly require some side lighting.


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## tirediron

Excellent points! ^^


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## nokk

reported as spam


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