# 120 format film development/Holga questions



## doobs (Oct 7, 2007)

Hello,

I've recently purchased a Holga 120N and I'm curious about the development of 120 film. I am very familiar with 35mm development but this is my first time using any other format of film. I am guessing much of it is the same, set aside the time that different chemicals are in the tank. The local darkroom I go to  has normal b+w chemicals (I'm guessing) and I wasn't sure if I needed a different kind. I am using Ilford FP-4 125. I often use this film in 35 as well. I was also curious about cross processing (I did a little reading on the internet) and if this can be done with black and white film. Also, what am I to do with the paper backing?

A few off topic questions that somewhat fit here:
- Holgas are known for their light leaks, however, I do not want my film to become extremely over taken with the leaks. I have held the camera up to the light in search of imperfections, and I have not seen any. I fear, however, that in between the back cover and the camera body. I have been told to cover it with duct/electrical/Gaffers tape. Will this suffice? Or do I need to worry at all?

- Also, does anyone have any suggestions on color film to use in the Holga that will produce a rich, saturated color. Also, do drug stores, such as Longs, develop 120 format film? I have no idea how to develop color. If not, I'm sure I can just take it to the people that work at the darkroom. 

Thanks for the help :thumbup:
 - Seabass


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## ann (Oct 7, 2007)

developing 120 film (black and white) is no different , except for the times. You can use the same chemicals your using for your 35mm film.

You should just practice loading it in the dark on the proper reel to get the feel.  Buy some outdated film for testing purposes.
remove the paper backing and just throw it away.

you cannot cross process black and white, that is a color experience.

We have many of these cameras at school and have never had one leak. However, others swear they have all sorts of leaks. 

Many people tape them up at all edges including the "red" window". You can use black tape.

developing color film is not difficult just different . the most critical part is maintaining the temperature of all chemcials so it will be easier to have it done at a lab.

have fun.


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## doobs (Oct 7, 2007)

ann said:


> You should just practice loading it in the dark on the proper reel to get the feel.  Buy some outdated film for testing purposes.
> remove the paper backing and just throw it away.



I know the darkroom has test negatives for loading practice, but I am sure they don't have the backing on them. I'll give it a go though. Thanks for the help!

- Doobington


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## Jeff Canes (Oct 7, 2007)

ann said:


> developing 120 film (black and white) is no different, except for the times. ---


Did you make a mistake on that reply? Because that is not right, the length of time is the same and so is the chemical mix ratio for both 35mm and roll, the only different is the volume of chemicals used


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## doobs (Oct 7, 2007)

Jeff Canes said:


> Did you make a mistake on that reply? Because that is not right, the length of time is the same and so is the chemical mix ratio for both 35mm and roll, the only different is the volume of chemicals used



So should I just use the amount of chemicals depending on the size of the tank?

- Catalina 12


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## Helen B (Oct 7, 2007)

Yes, the volume of chemicals is simply how much is required to cover the reel, for a normal non-rotating developing tank. The dilution ratio doesn't change. Development times can indeed vary between 120 and 35 mm - check the recommended times for the film and developer you will be using.

Best,
Helen


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## doobs (Oct 7, 2007)

Helen B said:


> Yes, the volume of chemicals is simply how much is required to cover the reel, for a normal non-rotating developing tank. The dilution ratio doesn't change. Development times can indeed vary between 120 and 35 mm - check the recommended times for the film and developer you will be using.
> 
> Best,
> Helen



Sweet, thanks a ton.  I've a Ilford film development chart around here somewhere.

- T Dogg


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## Helen B (Oct 7, 2007)

The Ilford chart shows the same times for 120 and 35 mm. Kodak is the main culprit for suggesting different times for 35 mm and 120 - and the times are rarely very different.

Best,
Helen


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## doobs (Oct 7, 2007)

Helen B said:


> The Ilford chart shows the same times for 120 and 35 mm. Kodak is the main culprit for suggesting different times for 35 mm and 120 - and the times are rarely very different.
> 
> Best,
> Helen



I know that the chart at the local darkroom I go to just has a list of films with no specific formats listed. Should I just follow the chart there? Other than that are all the stopping/fixing times all the same?

- Davis Douglas


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## Helen B (Oct 7, 2007)

Yes, the stop, fix and wash times and techniques are all the same.

Good luck,
Helen


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## doobs (Oct 7, 2007)

Thanks for all the help guys! I'll be sure to post the results.

- Captain Steve


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## ann (Oct 8, 2007)

you can check here for times, etc. remember these times come from a variety of sources, but we have found them to be a very good starting point.

http://www.digitaltruth.com/devchart.html


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## Jeff Canes (Oct 8, 2007)

Some films have slightly different ISO speeds for different format. A good example is Kodak Tri-X in 35mm it is rate at 400 ISO but 120/220 or sheets is rate at 320 ISO so the time will also be slightly different.  

  After a quick look at http://www.digitaltruth.com/devchart.html I will revise my statement to 97% plus of the time only the volume change.


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## Helen B (Oct 8, 2007)

Jeff Canes said:


> Some films have slightly different ISO speeds for different format. A good example is Kodak Tri-X in 35mm it is rate at 400 ISO but 120/220 or sheets is rate at 320 ISO so the time will also be slightly different.



That isn't just a re-rating. 320TXP and 400TX are two completely different films with different chararcteristics - they both happen to be among my favourites. 400TX is available in both 35 mm and 120, by the way. 320TXP has the honour of being the only B&W film available in 220 now. Thank you Kodak.

Availability:

400TX: 35 mm, 120

320TXP: 120, 220, sheets

There is a move to get 20,000 rolls of 400TX produced in 220. Hopefully it will come off.

Best,
Helen


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## doobs (Oct 8, 2007)

ann said:


> you can check here for times, etc. remember these times come from a variety of sources, but we have found them to be a very good starting point.
> 
> http://www.digitaltruth.com/devchart.html



I'll have to check that later, as I don't know the exact developer they have. I do know, however it's Kodak and it's a fairly standard b+w developer (I guess). However, thanks a ton, that's a helpful link. I'll be sure to bookmark that 

- Elephant/Cowboy/Robot


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## Helen B (Oct 8, 2007)

Here are the Kodak data sheets for 

D-76

Xtol

Microdol-X

HC-110

T-Max developer

All Kodak technical publications

Best,
Helen


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## doobs (Oct 8, 2007)

Helen B said:


> Here are the Kodak data sheets for
> 
> D-76
> 
> ...



Ah yes, thanks. I do believe it is Xtol. Thanks for the links!

EDIT: It says not to increase any time and I can not find within that chart how long for 120 format films. I presume going by the darkroom's chart will be fine. Thanks for the help!

- Human


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## Helen B (Oct 8, 2007)

Xtol is an excellent developer. It is one of those for which Kodak give slightly different times for 35 mm and 120 - look in the 'Format' column in the small tank development table (Table 1). It's no big deal - individual variances from the careful processing that Kodak do for their exhaustive tests will usually account for more adjustments than the 35 mm - 120 difference. 

I usually use it 1+3. This unofficial Xtol site has the Kodak times for the higher dilutions (1+2, 1+3, 1+5) that are no longer published by Kodak USA.

Good luck,
Helen


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## doobs (Oct 10, 2007)

The darkroom suggests diluting it 1+1. I developed the FP4 125 (120 roll) at 9.5 minutes. I developed a couple rolls of FP4 125 (35mm) that I ran through the Holga as and a few that I ran through my 35mm camera at about 9 minutes as it was warmer. The pictures came out great, albeit a little dark. Nothing that can't be fixed. Thanks again for the help!

- Funky T


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