# Getting started list.



## Patriot (Mar 2, 2014)

I finally want to start processing my own film so I made a list after reading post here and other websites. I will be sticking with Kodak as my brand for film and chemicals. I want to give them my support. 

1.   Development tank
2.   Changing bag
3.   Timer
4.   Reels 
5.   Plastic graduate 
6.   Funnel 
7.   Chemical stirrer 
8.   Thermometer 
9.   Cotton gloves 
10.  Film clips 
11.  Film squeegee 
12.  Development trays 

Black and white processing chemicals
. 
13.  Kodak T-Max RS Developer & Replenisher for Black & White Film
14.  Kodak Indicator Stop Bath (Liquid) for Black & White Film
15.  KODAFIX 200 Solution
16.  Couldnt find the KODAK PROFESSIONAL Final Rinse anywhere.

C-41 processing chemicals. 

17. this list is blank because I got confused on the chemicals needed because there was so many. 

Most of my film that I have now is B/W so that's what I will be starting with first until I fully figure out the c-41 process. Will watch some videos on youtube. If I am missing anything could you please let me know. I want to try and order everything at once is possible.


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## vimwiz (Mar 2, 2014)

Frankly, the Ilford chemicals and film are better.

In terms of kit, preperation is essential to accurate timing, and avoiding mistakes. It pays to have 3 or 4 for of most things, so you can have your develop,stop,fix,rinse, all ready to go, trying to mix up while te timer is ticking is hard.

Tanks usuall come with reels, Use Paterson or AP brand plastic ones. And *practicse*. if you ***totally*** black out a room you dont need a bag. It gets in the way.

You will need a wide array of graduates. And some storage bottles (funnels for these), and some measuring jugs (to keep water and the solutions in mixed up ready for the next step, at the right temp). Havin a handful of thermometers is helpful too.

Youll need a bottle opener or leader retriever for opening the film.

You dont need development trays if yoi arent printing? (If you are printing, you need an enlarger, right chems, paper, lightsafe, safelight etc)

A hose for your tap (if its not a mixer) is useful, as is basin(s) to keep your things in at temperature.

You may also want some wetting agent to put in the wash to prevent water spots.

I used this process myself (with Ilford) - With my tank 375ml is enough to cover 1 roll.

Ilford HP5+ B/W @ ISO 400.

TOTALLY DARK
- Open Cassette (use bottle opener) and Load (Dry!!!!!) spiral in darkness. Watch video to see how its done.

MIX CHEMICALS - Use extra containers at @23C so they cool while the step before is underway. Pour in say at 21C.

LC29 DEVELOPER - Dilute 1+29 so 12.5ml+362.5ml to make 375ml
ILFOSTOP STOP - Dilute 1+19 so 18.75ml+356.25ml to make 375ml
RAPID FIXER FIX - Dilute 1+4 so 75ml+300ml to make 375ml.

Then give it:

Pour in LC29 DEVELOPER 9m @ 20C exactly. Agitate evey minute.
Pour developer out after 8:45 into storage bottle.

Pour in ILFOSTOP STOP 10s+ @ 15-25C. Agitate twice.
Zero timer.
Pour out into storage bottle.

Pour in RAPID FIXER FIX and start timer. 3m+ @ 15-25C.
Remove lid. Pour out into storage bottle.

WASH 5-10m running water @ 15-25C.
Use less than 5ml INFOTOL wetting agent in final wash.

Squegee and hang.


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## Joxby (Mar 2, 2014)

Lol....Kodak binned Kodachrome, that killed my relationship with Kodak.......nuff said

On a more serious note..:mrgreen:...C41 is not an awful lot different to b/w, but it has to be processed at 38 degrees, rather than the room temp 20 degrees b/w is.
So to process C41 you need the correct chemicals and some method of keeping those chemicals at 38 degrees whilst you perform the processing, its an additional faff factor in an already faffy business..


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## limr (Mar 2, 2014)

Vimwiz pretty much covered it.

I'd suggest the Patterson tank with the plastic reels. Easier to load film on those than on the metal reels.

No need for trays unless you are planning to get into printing.

The wetting agent that was mentioned: add a bottle of PhotoFlo to your chemical list. It's cheap and lasts a long time, though honestly, a tiny drop of dishwashing liquid or JetDry in the final rinse also works. The water you use can affect what works best for you. I suggest getting some distilled water for at least the final rinse. 

The squeegee is controversial, I suppose. Personally, I'd see how you do without it, and if you still get water spots, try it with the squeegee. I used to just gently use my fingers, and then with my last few rolls, I would instead just shake it out, almost like a whip (much more gently, of course, but the same sort of movement - just an up and down movement to get the film into a wave motion) before hanging it to dry. Didn't get any water drops.


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## timor (Mar 2, 2014)

vimwiz said:


> Frankly, the Ilford chemicals and film are better.


Nonsense.
Ilford chemicals are twice the price of Kodak stuff, that's for sure. In most cases Ilford chemicals are copies of Kodak and Kodak Tmax Dev is excellent.
Kodak films are also hard to beat. Even by Ilford. Not that Ilford is in any way inferior, just is not markedly better.

Don't worry about "Kodak final rinse", use distilled water with few drops of Palmolive dishwashing liquid. This is better.
Do not squegee film. Never. Scratches for sure. Never touch the emulsion side when is wet. Do you want to remove water from the base side ? Use soft microfiber cloth slightly damp (never completely dry). How to do it ? Shake the film when still in the reel to loose most of the water. Remove it form the reel and hang, attache some weight on the bottom end, prepare your cloth, hold the bottom of the strip of film, gently slide the cloth form the top to bottom once and you done.


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## vimwiz (Mar 2, 2014)

Agree about no squeegee, if you use a soft water and wetting agent, just shake. Squeegee has damaged my films in worse ways than water spots...

Any by that ilford comment, that I meant they were better for the beginner, as I found more instructions available for the  Ilford films/chemicals. (The "process yoir first b&w" guide was the basis of my original method).


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## timor (Mar 2, 2014)

vimwiz said:


> Any by that ilford comment, that I meant they were better for the beginner, as I found more instructions available for the  Ilford films/chemicals. (The "process yoir first b&w" guide was the basis of my original method).


With that I agree. Ilford is better in this department nowadays.


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## webestang64 (Mar 2, 2014)

Let me just add.....
I prefer stainless steel tank and (Hewes) reels. Yes Hewes reels are higher priced, but they last until the end of time. Once you learn the trick to loading steel reels you will never go back to plastic.

I use Kodak D-76 and a Jobo Autolab 1000 reel/roller for my commercial lab. 

My personal lab I use D-76, ID-11, T-Max, X-Tol, just depends on the film, how it was shot, what speed,,,,etc.

Dev
Stop
Fixer
Wash......this is important. Wash longer than 5-10 min......!
 If you do not use Hypo-clear wash your film in running water for 30 mins. 
If you do use Hypo-clear, wash 5 min, Hypo 5 min, wash 5 min.
Those times will make sure the film has exhausted all the residual chemicals. If not, 10-15 years later you will have some "silvering" effect happen on your negitives. Trust me, I ran a 10 year experiment just for this and it verified in my results!  
Then use Photo Flo or similar wetting agent........NO Squeegee !!!!!!!!

Above all ...........HAVE FUN!!!!! And buy a few old books on film developing, they will help.


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## Patriot (Mar 2, 2014)

Ok so no development tray is need since I won't be printing, but scanning most likely. Also the squeegee is bad as it can damage the film. 

Will the Ilford work with Kodak film? I'm sure it will. Most of the film I have is T-max.


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## vimwiz (Mar 2, 2014)

Any brand chemicals will work, with any other brand film, so long as its B&W process, its just a matter of finding out what times/concentrations to use with any particular combination.

http://www.ilfordphoto.com/Webfiles/20106281054152313.pdf

There are development times for other brands such as Kodak X-Tol, T-Max etc... listed on the ilford films spec sheets, presumably Kodak also give the times for Ilford brand chemicals on thier films spec sheets also.

Maybe its some british/US thing as here its getting harder to get kodak stuff whereas there is tonnes of ilford.


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