# Have to use a flash but still want a shallow DOF, How to avoid small apertures???



## AMOMENT (Aug 24, 2012)

If I'm not using my SB700 off camera and I use it as fill flash, even at 1/2, in bright sun the fastest shutter speed I can have is 1/320.  Because of which, even with a low ISO of 100, I can't shoot that wide open.  If I want a shallower DOF, and to use an aperture of say 3.5, how do I do this?  If I dull down my flash too much then I still have too many shadows.  I can use a diffuser but I'm really curious as to how to work with DOF and on on camera flash or speedlight.  I guess I could always get closer to my subject and work with my focal length to effect DOF, but any suggestions or explanations for what to do when you are already using the lowest ISO possible, shutter speed is at fastest sync speed, and aperture is still giving too much DOF.........(photo will be overexposed if I stop up the aperture anymore).


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## MLeeK (Aug 24, 2012)

Neutral density filters. High speed sync.


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## SCraig (Aug 24, 2012)

MLeeK said:


> Neutral density filters. High speed sync.


^^ This.

I can get upwards of 1/2000 second with high-speed synch on my D7000 and SB-700.  Depends on the distance to the subject since the flash pulses.


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## IByte (Aug 24, 2012)

Hmmm I programmed my d7k body to sync with my flash at 1/320.  Then as previously stated crank up that shutter, when I get home I'll send an example.

Edit: As promise the photo i took of my dog in the shade.

I think was shot at 1/800-1/1000 sec, with at 6.3 I was using an 18-105mm.  Minor PP, enjoy 8).







Hope this helps OP


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## Mach0 (Aug 24, 2012)

HSS. The fastest I've needed to use it outside was 1/2000 maybe even 1/2500. I'm using a sb800. Sometimes I use the sb28 as well.


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## AMOMENT (Aug 24, 2012)

Thanks guys!!  Okay so now this amatuer has to go pull out her manual and figure out how to bump up the sync speed.  How do you change the shutter in pp?  Soo curious??  

Thanks for the pic...GOOD LOOKING DOG!  GOOD LOOKING PHOTO!!  =)


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## AMOMENT (Aug 24, 2012)

I took some practice shots with my pop up flash, dulled down, during 2pm sun and absolutely NO SHADE.....I wanted to just see how possible it was.  Going to do some pp and hopefully get some on in a little while.  I actually think I did good eliminating the shadows and not blowing out the highlights.  I wasn't using my speedlight; just my pop up flash, dulled to 1/2.


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## Mach0 (Aug 24, 2012)

AMOMENT said:
			
		

> .  How do you change the shutter in pp?  Soo curious??




You don't. 

As far as higher sync speed, I believe it's as simple as enable auto fp.


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## KmH (Aug 24, 2012)

You cannot do Nikon Auto FP sync with the built-in flash, only hot shoe flash units that are FP sync capable - Pages 222-223 of the D7000 User's Manual.


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## Village Idiot (Aug 27, 2012)

HSS is inefficient. Two 4800w/s packs, a head that will use both at the same time, and a 10 stop ND will get you where you need to be for way over budget...but you'll look like a badass doing it and you can provide sunlight at night.


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## 2WheelPhoto (Aug 27, 2012)

Village Idiot said:


> HSS is inefficient. Two 4800w/s packs, a head that will use both at the same time, *and a 10 stop ND* will get you where you need to be for way over budget...but you'll look like a badass doing it and you can provide sunlight at night.



Or pocketwizards set up to hypersync, and then you don't need the crap in front of your glass =)


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## Derrel (Aug 27, 2012)

Yes, FP synch flash *is* inefficient...but that's NOT a problem, since in many situations, full-flash needs to be doled out at around 2.5 to 3 stops LESS than a "full flash" exposure level...so, the loss of efficiency is merely a moot point that pops up in the heads of people who think about things in an in complete manner, or who are merely making flippant comments for sport.


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## Village Idiot (Aug 27, 2012)

2WheelPhoto said:


> Village Idiot said:
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> > HSS is inefficient. Two 4800w/s packs, a head that will use both at the same time, *and a 10 stop ND* will get you where you need to be for way over budget...but you'll look like a badass doing it and you can provide sunlight at night.
> ...



Again, there's only so much of a buffer they can give and depending on the camera it's not even a whole stop of light.


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## Village Idiot (Aug 27, 2012)

Derrel said:


> Yes, FP synch flash *is* inefficient...but that's NOT a problem, since in many situations, full-flash needs to be doled out at around 2.5 to 3 stops LESS than a "full flash" exposure level...so, the loss of efficiency is merely a moot point that pops up in the heads of people who think about things in an in complete manner, or who are merely making flippant comments for sport.



Or that have a lot of shooting to do and don't carry around a 32 pack of AA's.


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## 2WheelPhoto (Aug 27, 2012)

Village Idiot said:


> 2WheelPhoto said:
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I get 1/2000th or so if i calibrate long enough, some people get more. Some brag 1/8000th but i can't achieve that with my monolights they flash too quickly


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## Village Idiot (Aug 29, 2012)

2WheelPhoto said:


> Village Idiot said:
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5D MKII's are only getting 1/320 before black bars show up.


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## 2WheelPhoto (Aug 29, 2012)

Village Idiot said:


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Not with pocketwizard hypersync calibrated to the monolights.  I can't beleive people don't realize how the PWs work. I can take my old backup D80 in manual and get 1/2000th of a second with the pocketwizards calibrated between the cam and the monolight.


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## Village Idiot (Aug 29, 2012)

2WheelPhoto said:


> Village Idiot said:
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This is what testing has shown. Not all cameras are created equal. Even PW's website mentions limitations with various cameras.


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## 2WheelPhoto (Aug 29, 2012)

Yes sir but they guarentee more than 1/320th on any body using the TT1 or TT5 in hypersync mode.

If one can't achieve that sync speed PW care will help.  They helped me tremendously or I'd have not seen 1/2000th with a Profoto monolight and 2 PWs


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