# Has anyone used Kurare R-1130 polymer for cyanotype on glass?



## altphotoproducts (Nov 29, 2012)

Has anyone used Kurare R-1130 polymer instead of gelatine for cyanotype on glass?
Bostick&Sullivan has it.


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## terri (Nov 30, 2012)

Do you have an affiliation with B&S?


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## altphotoproducts (Dec 1, 2012)

Dear Terry,

        My only affiliation with Bostick & Sullivan is that I ordered Kuaray Poval R-1130 polymer from them and now
trying to find photographers that used it for cayanotype on glass to share experience.

Happy Holidays!

Victor Petryakov


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## terri (Dec 2, 2012)

Happy holidays to you, as well!  You have posted in the right forum section, so we'll see if you get anyone who has done this.  Good luck!


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## unpopular (Dec 2, 2012)

_*important: I have edited this post to remove a potentially dangerous error I unfortunately made. Do not use ammonia to increase pH. Ammonium hydroxide is listed as an incompatible material in the MSDS for Potassium Ferricyanide. Always confirm advice from qualified chemist.*_

The only thing I would be worried about is if it is porous enough to facilitate washing out (development). It is used as a substrate for inkjet, so there is some porous quality, but at the same time in this application you'd want the ink to not spread out too far as well as being sufficiently waterproof after.

According to this website, KURARAY POVAL, crosslinking can be facilitated by acidification or by mixing with "inorganic substances" and results in a "water resistent film". This certainly wouldn't be a good condition for any washing out process or developer in an aqueous solution... Certainly the Potassium Ferricyanide used in cyanotype sensitization are inorganic, but they seem here to be more referring to silica and alumina.

As for acidic conditions, I am not sure what the safest way to increase pH in order to avoid crosslinking. I'm not seeing anything on the msds to suggest potassium or sodium hydroxide wouldn't work, but I am not a chemist.


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