# I'm sure this get's asked alot



## XxTheZombiezxX (Aug 27, 2012)

But, I'm going to trying to make this question as simple as possible.
What all tools/chemicals/etc. Do you need to develop film? I see all this stuff around the web, and its become a big question. Is this needed? or just something optional? So, since google, and anywhere I look can't get me a straight forward answer. I'll just ask here. So, can anyone give me a list of stuff you NEED to develop black and white film?


----------



## tirediron (Aug 27, 2012)

You need:  A developing tank ("Patterson tank"), developer, stop-bath, fixer (there are many kinds, different applications, etc), a wetting agent such as Kodak's "Photoflo" a thermometer, some chemical resistant jugs, lots of fresh-water and a light-tight space to load the film into the developing tank; this can be a totally dark room, or just a changing bag.  You also need a dry, dust-free area in which to dry the film, a place to hang it, and a few plastic clothes-pins.


----------



## bhop (Aug 27, 2012)

Also, a bottle opener and scissors to open the film canisters.


----------



## gsgary (Aug 27, 2012)

And empty bottles for your stop bath and fixer because that can be used over and over again


----------



## unpopular (Aug 27, 2012)

Measuring graduates and beakers. I prefer glass myself, it's easier to clean than plastic, though plastic works fine, also. Surplus glassware can be found easily on ebay. I would suggest graduates in 100ml, 250ml and 1000ml sizes; 500ml and 1000ml beakers.

Plastic tub(s). I like to keep my tanks, beakers filled with chemistry, etc, in a bath of water at temperature.

I don't like Patterson tanks, the plastic breaks more easily than a quality stainless steel reels - though reels do bend. Patterson tanks don't transfer heat as well, but likewise insulate better. There's tradeoffs, I just always preferred metal tanks. Patterson reels are easy to thread.

Of course, you could always pick one of these up:

Konica CL-PP801 Mini Lab - Processor & Printer - EXCELLENT WORKING ORDER | eBay


----------



## Helen B (Aug 27, 2012)

You didn't say what size film you want to develop. You're better off using a developing tank for 35 mm, but you don't need one for 120 or sheet film - those sizes can be developed in trays or dishes, whatever. You don't _need_ stop bath - a water wash is fine. If you use plain sodium thiosulphate for fixing you can mix it as you need it and use it one-shot.  It depends on how minimal you want your list to be.


----------



## XxTheZombiezxX (Aug 27, 2012)

unpopular said:


> Measuring graduates and beakers. I prefer glass myself, it's easier to clean than plastic, though plastic works fine, also. Surplus glassware can be found easily on ebay. I would suggest graduates in 100ml, 250ml and 1000ml sizes; 500ml and 1000ml beakers.
> 
> Plastic tub(s). I like to keep my tanks, beakers filled with chemistry, etc, in a bath of water at temperature.
> 
> ...



If only I had the space for that huge machine. 



Helen B said:


> You didn't say what size film you want to  develop. You're better off using a developing tank for 35 mm, but you  don't need one for 120 or sheet film - those sizes can be developed in  trays or dishes, whatever. You don't _need_ stop bath - a water  wash is fine. If you use plain sodium thiosulphate for fixing you can  mix it as you need it and use it one-shot.  It depends on how minimal  you want your list to be.



35mm film Fujifilm Superia color. And ILFORD HP5+ Black and white.



tirediron said:


> You need:  A developing tank ("Patterson  tank"), developer, stop-bath, fixer (there are many kinds, different  applications, etc), a wetting agent such as Kodak's "Photoflo" a  thermometer, some chemical resistant jugs, lots of fresh-water and a  light-tight space to load the film into the developing tank; this can be  a totally dark room, or just a changing bag.  You also need a dry,  dust-free area in which to dry the film, a place to hang it, and a few  plastic clothes-pins.



That's actually not that bad of a list. So, any recomended brands?


----------



## XxTheZombiezxX (Aug 27, 2012)

Oh, so I'm looking around and I think i found the right stuff to start me out(brand wise).

-Developer: ILFORD ID11
Ilford ID11 - 1 Liter | Freestyle Photographic Supplies

-Stop Bath: Kodak Indicator Stop Bath
Kodak Indicator Stop Bath 16 oz. | Freestyle Photographic Supplies
^I read somewhere that this stuff is pretty good.

-Fixer: ILFORD Rapid Fixer
Ilford Rapid Fixer 1 liter | Freestyle Photographic Supplies

-Wetting Agent: Kodak Photo Flo 200
Kodak Photo Flo 200 16 oz. | Freestyle Photographic Supplies

-chemical resistant jugs: Arista Air-Evac
Arista Air-Evac Bottle 1 Liter | Freestyle Photographic Supplies

-Developing tank: Patterson
Paterson Single Reel Film Developing Tank with 1 Reel | Freestyle Photographic Supplies

-Film Retriever
Arista Deluxe Film Retriever | Freestyle Photographic Supplies

-Squeegee
Arista Film Squeegee 4.7 in. | Freestyle Photographic Supplies

And the rest seem like ordinary supplies I can get just about anywhere. Am I missing anything? Or suggestions on some brand I'd be better off using?


----------



## christopher walrath (Aug 27, 2012)

Your film retriever could be a church key to pop off the end of the cannister and reveal the film on the spool.

You have the chems down pat for the B&W by the looks of things.  The color will be a different animal, more chems, more space, the need to absolutely maintain water temp (perhaps not absolute, but color processing is not as forgiving as B&W). Not to discourage in the least.  But be aware that there is a lot more involved with the color end of things.

Again, chems are good.  Gotta work on the periphery list.  For b&w, I have a page on my website where I go over my own list.  Just a starter's list, really.  Might give you some ideas.


----------



## XxTheZombiezxX (Aug 27, 2012)

periphery?

Also, yeah. I'm not going to get my hands in color till I feel I can comfortably do b&w.

The link in your sig that says "My Website" doesn't work. So, I don't need the retriever?

OH! Where would i find the info for time... for the film and developer?


----------



## mjhoward (Aug 27, 2012)

I would also highly recommend a ventilation hood if you'd like to experience old age


----------



## snowbear (Aug 27, 2012)

XxTheZombiezxX said:


> OH! Where would i find the info for time... for the film and developer?



Developing times are available on Kodak's and Ilford's web sites.
For Kodak: http://www.kodak.com/global/en/professional/support/techPubs/edbwf/edbwf.pdf
and for Ilford: http://www.ilfordphoto.com/Webfiles/20114271219521241.pdf


----------



## unpopular (Aug 27, 2012)

mjhoward said:


> I would also highly recommend a ventilation hood if you'd like to experience old age



From what? The dilute acetic acid?

Besides, we're talking about developing film in tanks.


----------



## unpopular (Aug 27, 2012)

BTW: If you really want to get into photography, I would suggest Fundamentals of Photography, by Paul E. Boucher as well as The Standard American Encyclopedia of Formulas, 4th Edition, by Albert A. Hopkins.

Both of these books have TONS of formula for film developers, with the latter having lots of alternative and non-silver formula (as well as everything else photo and non-photo related) While "Fundamentals" also has good information regarding what each of the components are doing.

Do not get too late of an edition of 'Encyclopedia' as only the earlier editions had the more esoteric formulae.


----------



## XxTheZombiezxX (Aug 27, 2012)

Well, I mean. Agitation temp times. All that stuff. I'm sure it's not the same for every single film and chemical out their.

And I'll look into those for sure.


----------



## timor (Aug 29, 2012)

XxTheZombiezxX said:


> And the rest seem like ordinary supplies I can get just about anywhere. Am I missing anything? Or suggestions on some brand I'd be better off using?


Yes, you do, you will need a good laboratory class thermometer, calibrated. What you can buy in photo store might be off by even 3-4 degrees. That will throw you off any developing charts which in any case are just starting points, not absolute, written in the stone rules. Enough, that your water has a bit different pH (even if you gonna use distilled water), that will have influence on activity of the reducer, which automatically means different dev. time. So first time use the recommendations for given film and decide if the density of the neg is, what you desire.
Christopher is right, film retriever, forget about it, beer bottle opener is all, you need. I say also forget film squeegee, the easiest way to ruin the negative. Never ever touch the emulsion when it is wet and swollen and sensitive. Use instead a soft microfibre cloth and only on the film base side. Most water spots form on that side anyway. Dont leave too much water around the perforation.


----------



## Sw1tchFX (Aug 29, 2012)

CAFFINOL OR GTFO.


----------



## unpopular (Aug 29, 2012)

Caffinol is for panzies! Dedicated photographers use Urushiol-based developers.



timor said:


> Yes, you do, you will need a good laboratory class thermometer, calibrated.




I highly recommend this thermometer:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/HANNA-HI981...ltDomain_0&hash=item48386c1731#ht_1442wt_1013

It's fully submergible and has a pH meter for when you decide to start experimenting. Like all pH meters, you will need to calibrate it regularly. Seems a lot of people don't realize that.


----------



## unpopular (Aug 31, 2012)

(oh. and for frick's sake, don't make developer from Urushiol. I have visions of people pushing poison oak through a wheatgrass juicer. I'm not even sure it'd work.)


----------

