# My first "studio"



## redtippmann (Jul 21, 2009)

Well im converting my back porch into a "studio". I always have been interested in studio work but never really looked into it. 

So I'm getting some light and stands and umbrellas soon from amazon.com and am making backdrops out of some thick cloth because im on a tight budget and cant get a $100 for backgrounds.

This is going to document my experiences so I hope you dont mind me posting here.

So heres what I have to work with, its the largest part of my house that were not using for living.





so my first question is where/who can I get to shoot. I already asked my friends but they don't want to. But I looked at model mayhem but I'm not sure about contacting people there scene im only 15. So any advice about this studio stuff? Thanks!


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## KmH (Jul 21, 2009)

For backdrops I use seamless paper rolls that are 9' wide and 12 yards long. I buy them from B&H and they cost $43 a roll plus shipping (I get free regular shipping from B&H with my NAPP membership). They come in many colors though I mostly use gray and white. White is only $40.

You may have a source nearby so you don't have to pay shipping charges.

Shooting in studio gives the advantage of having total control of the light. You have a lot of uncontrolled light there, but like you said, it's all you got. It's been said that, "necessity is the mother of invention".

If you shoot models from MM or friends you need to have a signed contract and model release from each person you photograph.


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## tron (Jul 21, 2009)

the easiest way i found is to just jerry rig a studio.  i dont do studio work a lot so i didnt want to spend big bucks for stands, unbrellas, etc so heres what i did

hung a white bedsheet from a closet

got 4 of these lamps from my garage:
http://www.cpsc.gov/cpscpub/prerel/prhtml82/82011a.jpg

clamp the lights to anything (i use wood clamps, my shelf, desk, boxes, etc)

works great!


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## KmH (Jul 21, 2009)

Yep, your studio 'gear' never shows up in the image so, whatever works.


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## redtippmann (Jul 21, 2009)

yea im looking into a set like this:
Amazon.com: CowboyStudio New Photo Studio Umbrella Continuous Lighting Kit Set- 2 7ft Stands, 1 Mini Stand and Carry Case: Camera & Photo

I'd love to have like 4 SB-600 (or some type of flashes) around but there like what $200 each? So I decided to go the constant light route.

but thanks for the back drop link! I heard cloth dosent always work with bright light. but I am going to set the backdrop along the back wall and I'll keep the shades open so hopefully it will decrease the shadows cast by the subject.


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## musicaleCA (Jul 21, 2009)

KmH said:


> Yep, your studio 'gear' never shows up in the image so, whatever works.



Indeed. Duct tape snoots FTW! (My snoots are all covered in duct tape on the outside...same for my cardboard grids.  )


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## KmH (Jul 21, 2009)

redtippmann said:


> yea im looking into a set like this:
> Amazon.com: CowboyStudio New Photo Studio Umbrella Continuous Lighting Kit Set- 2 7ft Stands, 1 Mini Stand and Carry Case: Camera & Photo
> 
> I'd love to have like 4 SB-600 (or some type of flashes) around but there like what $200 each? So I decided to go the constant light route.
> ...


You'll be replacing those lights, they don't have enough umph, but they'll get you started. When you go to get more powerfull lights be sure they are daylight balanced.

No self respecting photographer uses 'duct tape', they use gaffers tape.


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## redtippmann (Jul 21, 2009)

so what light would you recommend?


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## musicaleCA (Jul 21, 2009)

Duct tape is what I had man. It's hard to get gaffer's tape in this city, but I finally found a supplier here that sells it! 

I'd recommend hot-shoe flashes, for the sake of portability. I here Alien Bees are good though, if you won't need to carry them around anywhere.


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## SrBiscuit (Jul 21, 2009)

i went to home depot and got a couple 500W worklights with clamps and/or adjustable stands. works for me...only real beef is that they get HOT...so look out!


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## redtippmann (Jul 21, 2009)

musicaleCA said:


> I'd recommend hot-shoe flashes, for the sake of portability. I here Alien Bees are good though, if you won't need to carry them around anywhere.



I would like flashes compared to constant light but I don't know of any besides the SB-series. And my budget is around the $100 mark. I looked into the Alien Bees and a set of three ( I think I would need that) were out of my price range. 

If anyone knows of something in my range (if there is anything) portability docent matter to me so much.


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## JerryPH (Jul 21, 2009)

UGH... I'm sorry, but I feel that "constant on" lights suck.  The power is low and portability is severely curtailed.  I love studio work, but I will tell you what... some of the BEST studios are outside your door.  I found some old abandoned buildings with INCREDIBLE graffiti and shot there... there are some parks that are stunning.












 Older buildings, back yards, down town... old parts of town, by the water, lakes, cities, country sides, inside, outside... there is NO studio in the world that will give you the vibrant background of a setting sun.

Even at night around some campfires offer better "studio space"!











Even professional studios are fun at first... but get boring REAL fast after the first 10 or so times.  Then it is money wasted on backdrop stands, backdrops and other things that you will rarely, if ever, use again.

Get yourself 1 speedlight on a light stand, maybe some wireless triggers... read the strobist site for a week, then go out and REALLY get some nice shots, then later add one or two more speedlights.  They are fast, portable and you can do much more with them than any "constant on" lighting... ever!


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## redtippmann (Jul 21, 2009)

Thanks allot! I didn't know that one strobe would work! I always guesses that it would leave dark bad shadows. But if the above images are with only one that sounds good!


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## JerryPH (Jul 21, 2009)

redtippmann said:


> Thanks allot! I didn't know that one strobe would work! I always guesses that it would leave dark bad shadows. But if the above images are with only one that sounds good!



The top 2 are, the others are just examples of shots with some nice "backdrops"... lol

Visit the strobist flickr group... there you will see many shots taken with one light that will just blow you away.  I use mostly 1-2 lights myself... no real need for more, not even in a studio... though in the more complex setups, I have used as many as 8 light sources.

Joe McNally often has shots so complex, he uses a dozen or more speedlights!


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## JerryPH (Jul 21, 2009)

KmH said:


> Shooting in studio gives the advantage of having total control of the light. You have a lot of uncontrolled light there, but like you said, it's all you got. It's been said that, "necessity is the mother of invention".



Why can one not have total control over the light outside?  Granted, to be able to shoot in mid day sun AND control or overpower it takes powerful lighting... but it is possible and then no more difficult than shooting in a studio.

In fact, I find the constraints of shooting in a single room that always looks the same (no matter how many people you shoot)... boring and limiting.

Give me a simple alley way and I will be there all day taking shots in so many different ways and angles that you will think I was in 10 different locations, then I can move 1 street down or to the park across the street and do it all again!  

The only factor there for me, is that I do not enjoy shooting in the rain.  Some people do, and I know my camera could take it, this is just a personal choice for me.


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## redtippmann (Jul 21, 2009)

Yea I got the notion of needing like at least 5 strobes from one of McNally's videos. But I will check the flickr group out!


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## JerryPH (Jul 21, 2009)

musicaleCA said:


> KmH said:
> 
> 
> > Indeed. Duct tape snoots FTW! (My snoots are all covered in duct tape on the outside...same for my cardboard grids.  )
> ...


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## KmH (Jul 22, 2009)

JerryPH said:


> KmH said:
> 
> 
> > Shooting in studio gives the advantage of having total control of the light. You have a lot of uncontrolled light there, but like you said, it's all you got. It's been said that, "necessity is the mother of invention".
> ...


Yep, you can overpower sunlight but you can't turn sunlight up or down or move it the other side of the frame.

In his situation, there in the sunroom, he'd do just as well outside using a building's shadow or overhead foliage out on location, as you suggest. I intimated as much but hoped he'd come to that conclusion on his own so he would 'own the idea'.

redtippmann'

There are alternatives to Nikon speedlights for strobist, off camera, location light. Check out a Vivitar 285HV ($90), Jerry uses 1 or 2 of those too I think.


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## JerryPH (Jul 22, 2009)

KmH said:


> There are alternatives to Nikon speedlights for strobist, off camera, location light. Check out a Vivitar 285HV ($90), Jerry uses 1 or 2 of those too I think.



I bought one out of curiosity... it was a good purchase, the thing is a real workhorse of a flash.  For the money, it is the best battery powered speedlight out there.  Other speedlights may off you offer you more... more power, more settings, more compatibility for TTL, but they also cost a lot *more*.


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## Dmitri (Jul 22, 2009)

Re: buying flash vs the studio cowboy kit (which I have also been eyeballing):
With the 90$ flash you get a flash.
With the kit (abt $90) you get 3 continous lights, 3 stands (one mini) and two umbrellas.

Not sure how the flash is a better deal. I understand what you're saying about location shooting, but you would still need a stand, umbrella, etc. to make any sort of pro looking portraits or scenes.


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## redtippmann (Jul 22, 2009)

I'll look into that vivitar. But I wos wondering how to trigger the flash. I know u could use a pc cord but I would like to go wireless. But I only see ones for $200. And I don't think I would use umbrellas with a flash, just a difuser. So thanks for the continued advice!

Edit: /\ the post above is also what I was thinking. /\


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## KmH (Jul 22, 2009)

The bigger the light source the softer the shadows.

Umbrellas make your little speedlight seemway big. Convertable umbrellas can be used to reflect light from a flash or with the backing off in shoot-through mode for diffussion.


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## redtippmann (Jul 22, 2009)

sounds good. but the main question is how to trigger the flash. I have little experience with flashes so I dont know where to start.


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## JerryPH (Jul 22, 2009)

Dmitri said:


> Re: buying flash vs the studio cowboy kit (which I have also been eyeballing):
> With the 90$ flash you get a flash.
> With the kit (abt $90) you get 3 continous lights, 3 stands (one mini) and two umbrellas.
> 
> Not sure how the flash is a better deal. I understand what you're saying about location shooting,



Its a question of useability... not money.  You can do only ONE thing with single on lights... one speedlight on a stand with umbrella does the same thing.. plus... plus... plus.

A shoot through AND bounce umbrella is $14.  
A light stand is $23.
A swivel mount is $16
A wireless trigger receiver and transmitter are $30

With this and your flash, you have:

*1.* A  lightsource that is stronger than those 3 constant on lights put together!  This means I can shoot in brighter conditions than the 3 lights combined.

*2.* It means you can shoot without tripping over wires AND you can be further away from the flash than the length of sync cord wire (which is about $25 for a 15 foot cord).  As a matter of fact, if you have some minor solding skills, you can add a piece of wire to the V2s units and shoot from well over 350 feet away!:











HERE is how to modify the V2s to go to over 300 feet.


*3.* You can shoot outdoors as well as indoors.

*4.* You can shoot in places that don't have an electrical plug (try dragging the constant on to the local skate board park!).

*5.*  The biggie... you can buy a speedlight now and get a head start... or you can waste your money on constant on lighting, hit the limits within 30 days and then start saving for speedlights later ANYWAY.  Either way... sooner or later, you will be using speedlights, that I can guarantee you, becuase this is what 99% of photographers use today... every think there are reasons for that?

PS:  Ever wonder why they call it a cowboy kit?  I think I do... it is becuase they love taking you for a ride.


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## Dmitri (Jul 22, 2009)

KmH said:


> Umbrellas make your little speedlight seem way big.



Is that only for a speedlight or does it work with anything?

I mean, should I get an umbrella for my bedroom?


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## JerryPH (Jul 22, 2009)

You guys are asking some of the most basic of questions!!  Ever consider spending 2 hours at the strobist site and reading Lighting 101?  There are answers there for you to questions you have not even asked yet!

STROBIST LIGHTING 101 LINK

BTW, an umbrella doesn't "make your little speedlight seem way big", it increases the *APPARENT* SIZE of the light and it also diffuses the light making it softer.

What you need in your bedroom... is that a question you should even ask on a photo forum?  LOL!.

I use umbrellas all the time, indoors, outdoors, bedrooms and where ever else I want diffused light.  It is not a question of WHERE... it is a question of the effects you WANT to achieve.


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## redtippmann (Jul 22, 2009)

thanks for helping us strobist newbs.  but I think I now know what I need, cant wait to be able to control light outside! Thanks again!


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## RyanLilly (Jul 22, 2009)

Jerry has the right plan. Add a piece of poster board, and maybe steal that silver reflector from your cars windshield, and you have a great one light setup that is very versatile. I have a couple Vivitar 285hv, and use the Cactus V2s triggers with the mods that Jerry linked to, and they are great. You will grow out of that constant light kit very fast, they are not very bright, you will need a bunch of extension cords and power strips, and the frustration will take all the fun out of it. You will never outgrow a Vivitar 285HV, it will always be a useful item to have; in fact I always carry one, because you never know when its going to come in handy.


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## redtippmann (Jul 22, 2009)

Yea and I just found a old sunpak 400 flash with my film gear. It has a 6 inch pc cord on it so it can be a small and short off camera flash for now  it actually works very well with both my cameras.


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## Dmitri (Jul 22, 2009)

You guys are killing me. Like Redtipp, I was all prepared to buy the kit from cowboy studios, and now guys got me re-thinking everything... *sigh*


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## rlcphotos (Jul 23, 2009)

redtippmann said:


> so what light would you recommend?


 


a strobe, I have hot lights and not very satisfied with them,,if you want I will sell them to you,,,pm me


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## JerryPH (Jul 23, 2009)

See what I mean? 

That is pretty much the consensus of almost everyone who touches constant on lighting.  The ones who defend it... likely never bothered to learn or even try flashes... becuase if they did, they would have tossed those constant on lights a long time ago.  

Constant on lighting is cool for film... and to be honest, I know of ways that constant on lighting could be beneficial for me, and I will one day look at it... but it won't be those cheap ebay kits for 90 bucks... lol


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## Dmitri (Jul 23, 2009)

ok let me ask this then.
If I buy the vivitar, does it a) work with canon and b) would I need a to buy a light meter?


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## redtippmann (Jul 23, 2009)

A) yes B) you should have a light meter in your camera but on the side of the flash is a calculator where you dial in your settings. There is a youtube video about it.

PS: thanks for taking my thread.


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## JerryPH (Jul 23, 2009)

Dmitri said:


> ok let me ask this then.
> If I buy the vivitar, does it a) work with canon and b) would I need a to buy a light meter?



Yes.. but you want to learn to contol your flash, and MORE importantly... do what it takes to get the flash OFF the camera.  On camera flash is way less flatterring, flat, introduces red eye and basically sucks compared to off camera lighting.

Off camera flash is much better in terms of final results, both aesthetically and artistically.

Do you need a light meter... yes and no.  Yes, becuase you can dial in the results you want a little faster and more accurately.  No, becuase you can use your camera's histograms to serve as a light meter.

In the studio, I use a light meter becuase I can set my ratios with great accuracy.  Is it mandatory?  No, especially with only 1 flash when you are starting out.

It is recommended to get one... later, once you get more serious and get more advanced about it.


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## Dmitri (Jul 23, 2009)

Thanks for all the info, Jerry. You've certainly given me much to think about. I headed over to strobist and will do some heavy reading. :thumbsup:

Redtipp, sorry I asked a question in your thread.


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## JerryPH (Jul 23, 2009)

oh, for Vivitar 285HV owners, there is a guy that made an external battery pack for it, for like under 40 bucks!  It decreases recycle times and increases battery life well over double.  I, personally would use a bigger SLA battery and go for the 1000 picture mark before needing a recharge... lol

DIY Vivitar 285 HV Battery Pack - Page 1


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## RyanLilly (Jul 23, 2009)

JerryPH said:


> oh, for Vivitar 285HV owners, there is a guy that made an external battery pack for it, for like under 40 bucks!  It decreases recycle times and increases battery life well over double.  I, personally would use a bigger SLA battery and go for the 1000 picture mark before needing a recharge... lol
> 
> DIY Vivitar 285 HV Battery Pack - Page 1



I was considering something similar to this, I would skip the battery holder connector, and just install a power jack in the side of the flash. That requires a bit more crap be disassembled and screwed with, but I think it would be more convenient and less expensive. Plus it's more convenient to clip a couple of SLA batteries to a "battery maintainer" type trickle charger in the garage an just leave them charging all the time. Now I have to constantly refresh different sets of AA, then try to keep two or three dozen batteries from getting mix up while taking up all my outlets for chargers. (currently 3 for camera batteries and 3 or 4 for AA's, Power strips help though.)

Anyway, good link.


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## FourAcesPhotography (Jul 24, 2009)

Quick rundown:



KmH said:


> For backdrops I use seamless paper rolls that are 9' wide and 12 yards long. I buy them from B&H and they cost $43 a roll plus shipping (I get free regular shipping from B&H with my NAPP membership). They come in many colors though I mostly use gray and white. White is only $40.





JerryPH said:


> A shoot through AND bounce umbrella is $14.
> A light stand is $23.
> A swivel mount is $16
> A wireless trigger receiver and transmitter are $30



Add in the aforementioned Vivitar 285VH and throw in a reflector and you got your studio for a couple hundred bucks.  

Can anyone else think of any other immediate equipment?


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## JerryPH (Jul 24, 2009)

Honestly thats all you need for a good base, even without a backdrop.  Use the great outdoors as your backdrop!  Anything more than that is so that you can increase the complexity and/or  increase the control and/or size of the area lit, of the lighting setup for more varied effects.

The style of the photographer determines their needs and level of equipment.  I am a proponent of the "start slow, start small and build as you need" set.  I also prefer the "KISS" method too.  Though a well designed 50 strobe compilation serves a purpose, and is impressive as heck, I tend to stick to 2 speedlights or 1 studio head and a back light lately even if I do have the options of using more of any of the 3 studio heads and 6 speedlights in my meager collection.


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## Dmitri (Jul 24, 2009)

Well Jerry, you talked me into it. I just ordered the Vivitar instead of the cowboy studio kit. $84.99 +2.98S&H and no tax from Overstock.com.

Now I have to buy that other stuff you listed above (thanks very much for the detailed list and links!).

Here's to money, well, spent 

edit: oh, and batteries. Need to buy batteries!


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## FourAcesPhotography (Jul 24, 2009)

The Vivitar 285VH is great - but it's a monster - even for a portable strobe!  What are recommendations for smaller alternatives under $300?

As far as STUDIO strobes, I'm reading a book that "recommends that your purchase at least four self-contained units, such as... the X Series from Paul Buff ($399 and up)."

What do you guys think about that?


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## redtippmann (Jul 24, 2009)

Hey just another question. My dad wants me to shoot his wedding for him and I was wondering if the Vivitar would work on my D2H? I know the camera can trigger it but I was wondering if the flash would produce an even light indoors?


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## JerryPH (Jul 24, 2009)

FourAcesPhotography said:


> The Vivitar 285VH is great - but it's a monster - even for a portable strobe!  What are recommendations for smaller alternatives under $300?



For startes?  The Vivitar 285.  Size is unimportant becuase its off on a light stand 10 feet away... what do you care what size it is?  

If you want to spend more money, its not going to be for more power, but more options... like the ability to be remotely triggered via CLS/TTL... in that case for Nikon people... an SB-600.



FourAcesPhotography said:


> As far as STUDIO strobes, I'm reading a book that "recommends that your purchase at least four self-contained units, such as... the X Series from Paul Buff ($399 and up)."
> 
> What do you guys think about that?



I think that guy needs to buy a book or DVD from Zack Arias... its called ONE LIGHT PHOTOGRAPHY.  

Seriously, for people starting out, one will get you far.  Master one light, THEN add more.  Trust me, its a lot more challenging than you may think but it is so rewarding to be able to say "I *know* what I am doing".


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## Derrel (Jul 24, 2009)

In regards to FourAces' question, "As far as STUDIO strobes, I'm reading a book that "recommends that your purchase at least four self-contained units, such as... the X Series from Paul Buff ($399 and up).What do you guys think about that?"

My personal preference is not for self-contained strobes aka monolights, but rather pack-and-head systems. Monlights are very expensive per watt-seconds; I think a four-light portrait setup is pretty standard; main light, fill light, grid-and-barndoors equipped separation/hair light, and a background light; often times two background lights are needed to easily and smoothly elevate large gray backgrounds up to white or lifting a black seamless up to gray. With a low-cost power pack,like a used Speedotron six-outlet pack like a used 2401B for $500 and four used 102 or 103 heads, you have the ability to light sophisticated setups pretty easily.

Monolights get very expensive when you need four or five or six of them. Power packs these days are very low-cost on the used market, and many brands have ample accessories designed for professional use and long life. I know a lot of beginners and hobbyists love Alien Bees and White Lightnings, but I got into studio flash before the Bees were invented, with the most popular studio flash brand in the USA, which is Speedotron. For beginners, there is no better value than Speedotron; it's a system that has compatibility dating to the 1960's right up to the present day,so there's a ton of used equipment available, very cheaply these days with the lousy economy and all the commercial studios that have folded/are going under, liquidating their lighting gear.

If you go with the lower-cost Brown Line power packs and heads, you can buy D402LV power supplies for $100-$125 on eBay every week,and light heads with 400 watt-second flashtubes are selling or $50-$65 on eBay quite often. D802 800 watt-second Brown Line power packs are very affordable on the used market. If you need say, 1600 watt-seconds fired through one light head, a D1602 power pack and M11 light head is very cheap on the used market ($75 used, $225 new). Same with the D604 600 watt-second, four-outlet power supply. 

With monolights, high output level monolights cost a veritable fortune compared with used Speedotron Black Line packs and the "standard",cheap 102 or 103 light heads. With a 2400 watt-second six-outlet pack, you can fire 2400,1200,800 watt-seconds through 1, 2, or 3 light heads--or 400 through six heads. For portrait work, with d-slr cameras, as little as 50 watt-second per head is often enough for fill and hair/separaton lights, so the cost of three or four monlights at $350-$400 each is wasted money that would be better spent on quality light modifiers and a decent boom stand and some good light stands and some accessories like grids,barndoors,and scrims and reflector cards.

I will re-state that last point again: for portraiture of singles and couples,you are wasting money by purchasing four, 400-watt-second monolights because as little as 50 to 100 watt-seconds is often all you need for one or two of the lghts,especially with new d-slrs that have a base ISO of 200. SPLITTING 400,600,or 800 watt-seconds through three, or four light outlets on a power pack is all you will need for many shoots.

If it were "me" I would investigate the pack-and-head system by talking or corresponding with somebody who has experience with pack and heads. Monolights have some advantages, but buying three or four matching monolights might not really be as economically feasible,or flexible, as buying a pack-and head system that has ALL the accessories you will eventually want.

Dropping $1600 for four $399 Paul C Buff monolights would mean foregoing a MUCH more-complete,broader, and more-capable Speedotron system that would have higher output, more outlets, and more options, at a used cost of $1,000 or so for the entire Speedotron system--maybe even dramatically LESS than $1,000 if you score some good buys and choose wisely. Like I said, used lighting gear is extremely affordable these days...and with Speedotron it usually has years of life left due to the design and build quality of every item in the line.


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## JerryPH (Jul 25, 2009)

redtippmann said:


> Hey just another question. My dad wants me to shoot his wedding for him and I was wondering if the Vivitar would work on my D2H? I know the camera can trigger it but I was wondering if the flash would produce an even light indoors?



1. On camera flash SUCKS.

2. If you really care about your dad and want him to have pictures that have a quality level that will put a smile on his face for life... get him a better gift... a good professional wedding photographer.

A wedding is a very dynamic fast-paced event that happens ONCE and cannot be repeated. It is strongly recommended that a beginner NOT undertake this task. The results will be potentially disappointing for everyone, and you will not be doing right by your dad.  The equipment demands of a wedding are extreme... the skill levels DEMANDED by a wedding... are extreme.


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## redtippmann (Jul 27, 2009)

Just to put one last comment on here, I did tell my dad that weddings are extremely hard to shoot and that I strongly recommend that they get someone else. Even after that he still thinks that I should do it. So I'll tell him once more and If he still wants me to do it, I'll hope for the best.

I watched some videos on youtube and they were very helpful in how to setup one flash setups. And thanks for all this input!


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## JerryPH (Jul 27, 2009)

You can say that you would happily assist a pro... or if it is your father... YOU get him the gift of a professional.


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## platano (Jul 27, 2009)

you should get White Roman Blinds for your windows they make great SOFTBOXs with the sun that I see coming through. I used my Roman Blinds as softboxes on some of the pics on my site.


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## redtippmann (Jul 27, 2009)

JerryPH said:


> You can say that you would happily assist a pro... or if it is your father... YOU get him the gift of a professional.



Yea I would more than happly assist a pro. but were on a pretty tight budget nowadays, but it never hurts to ask!


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## inTempus (Jul 27, 2009)

Dmitri said:


> You guys are killing me. Like Redtipp, I was all prepared to buy the kit from cowboy studios, and now guys got me re-thinking everything... *sigh*


Cowboy Studios = low quality stuff.  I wouldn't buy it unless it's the absolute best you can afford.


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## Dmitri (Jul 27, 2009)

tharmsen said:


> Dmitri said:
> 
> 
> > You guys are killing me. Like Redtipp, I was all prepared to buy the kit from cowboy studios, and now guys got me re-thinking everything... *sigh*
> ...




True, but (before Jerry convinced me to go flash) my thinking was, "a complete 3 light kit, with stands and umbrella for about 80$ - cheap yes, but damn good for beginners." I still think that, but I liked Jerry's idea more, and he very helpfully showed how cheap the off camera flash set up could be (tho granted, only one light).

I think the cowboy studio stuff is probably very good for people on budgets, or just want to try out studio lighting without breaking the bank. I read very good things about them before considering them.


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## redtippmann (Jul 27, 2009)

oh dmitri did you get your order yet? Just wondering how you like it.


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## FourAcesPhotography (Jul 28, 2009)

Dmitri said:


> tharmsen said:
> 
> 
> > Dmitri said:
> ...




You'll replace that stuff quick.  Try this:

Strobist Starving Student SC1 Lighting Kit


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## Dmitri (Jul 28, 2009)

redtippmann said:


> oh dmitri did you get your order yet? Just wondering how you like it.



Haven't gotten anything yet.


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## redtippmann (Jul 28, 2009)

FourAcesPhotography said:


> Dmitri said:
> 
> 
> > tharmsen said:
> ...


i'd be nice to have it all in a kit but that flash's meter looks difficult to figure out. If There was one with a vivitar I'd get it.


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## Dmitri (Jul 28, 2009)

Found this video on how to make cheap studio lights (hot lights). Looks very interesting, I may have to try it out some day. 

Site keeps embedding the video instead of linking to it... 
www. youtube.com/watch?v=Gov1t-IfvSY


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## FourAcesPhotography (Jul 28, 2009)

redtippmann said:


> FourAcesPhotography said:
> 
> 
> > Dmitri said:
> ...



They [MPEX] replaced the Vivitar 285VH in all there Strobist kits.  It has nearly all the same features with a swivel.  It's new, designed by the strobist, for the strobist.

Check out the Strobist website for a review.


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## JerryPH (Jul 30, 2009)

FourAcesPhotography said:


> They [MPEX] replaced the Vivitar 285VH in all there Strobist kits.  It has nearly all the same features with a swivel.  It's new, designed by the strobist, for the strobist.
> 
> Check out the Strobist website for a review.



I trust the Vivitar more than their "custom made for strobist by MPEX" flashes.  Do you read all the posts with horror stories of it breaking and what not?  Granted MPEX has great CS and replaces them... but if you get the 285, you get a rock solid piece of flash right out of the box.

Also, lets price this out:
Here is what the kit is from MPEX for $255:
Flash $90
Stand $15
Swivel $14
Umbrella $15
Gel kits $10 *1
Bongo ties $5 *2
Gaffer Tape $8 *2
Rosco DIY kit $10 *1
catcus V2s $30
Tripod case $20 *4

Done in parts, you can get it yourself for well under $200 and lose nothing. Now, look at this...

*1 to *4 notes:
1.  I can DIY the things myself or buy a 20X26 sheet of Rosgo gel for $7, enough to make 20+ flash head gels.  I can also get a Rosco sample pack for anything between free to 2 dollars and get *TONS* of gels that fit over the flash (extending the side with a little tape!  ).  I bought 4 sample packs the last time I went to a local photography store, and several sheets of CTO and ND (-1 and -2 stops) gels.  Enough to last me a lifetime.

2. not needed.  Honestly... use tape, it does the same.

3. convenient, but really not really needed

3. A cereal box and some tape, some alumium foil and you have 100% the same thing, just for free.  

4. Again, no case needed to carry ONE lightstand... come on!

Doing it my way costs you way less ($164):
Flash $90
Stand $15
Swivel $14
Umbrella $15
 catcus V2s $30

Thats all you REALLY need to start off... with the exception of maybe the gel sample packs, which are available for next to nothing (free to 2 bucks, as I said before).  Plus the 285 is clearly proven itself as a better work horse than the LumoPro.

I like MPEX, but they are filling that up with things you do not need and it is costing you way more than it should.  Doing it my way... you nearly get a 2nd flash for free for the price of their kit!

Do people start to understand the advantage of doing the homework now?  
Do it... your wallet AND photography will thank you!


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## redtippmann (Jul 30, 2009)

Yeah mine is coming to $220 some
Cactus V2-$30
Gel-$15
Swivel-$16
Umbrella-$13
Stand-$22
Vivitar, charger, batteries, diffuser-$114
Shipping-$17
------------------------
$227

BTW what about V4 of the cacti triggers, any better?


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## JerryPH (Jul 30, 2009)

Better out of the box, yes.  But if you have a little soldering capabilities and mod the V2s, they are much better than the V4s.

Out of the box, the V2s get about 30 feet.  Out of the box the V4 get 100 feet.  Modded V2s get 350+ feet.












How to mod them HERE.  No matter what, though... the batteries that they come with are CRAP.  Replace them immediately for best results.  Mine lasted about 10 shots... then died.  Others report the same thing all the time.  The batteries that they come with are enough to testand then... nothing.


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## ocular (Jul 30, 2009)

I don't know if a d50 has commander mode, but you can use ur pop up flash to set off the sb600.


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## brettmc (Jul 30, 2009)

if you use a pop up, isn't that kind of defeating the purpose of using off camera?  Or is there some trick I don't know about?


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## redtippmann (Jul 30, 2009)

there is a trick. But the d50 cannot command strobes. Also Im not getting a SB-600 and my D2H is my main camera which dosen't have a built in flash anyways.


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## ocular (Jul 30, 2009)

brettmc said:


> if you use a pop up, isn't that kind of defeating the purpose of using off camera?  Or is there some trick I don't know about?


  Yes, your camera can set off you sb 600/800 with a pre-flash. Only thing is it doesn't work in bright sunlight.


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## JerryPH (Jul 31, 2009)

ocular said:


> I don't know if a d50 has commander mode, but you can use ur pop up flash to set off the sb600.



Not without a commander mode.  The SB-600 has NO internal slave.  The ONLY 2 ways to set off a SB-600 are via CLS or external receiver like a PW or Cactus or external Wein optical slave.


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## redtippmann (Jul 31, 2009)

ordered what jerry recommended today. Hope I can get the cactus modified when I get it. 

BTW anyone know how old you have to be to be singed up as a photographer on MM?


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## JerryPH (Jul 31, 2009)

Yes... 35 years old minimum... lol.

I do not think age is a factor for signing up, but I *do* think age becomes a huge factor when trying to get a model to stand in front of you (not many 25 year old models want to stand in front of a teen).  I'm a member there, and honestly, I would skip it.  I get TONS more action from a local strobist group even when age is not a factor.

For every 1 model I get from there (when they even decide to show), I get between 50-60 from the local strobist group.  Besides that... before shooting models, it would be wise to just learn the basics first anyways!


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## Dmitri (Aug 2, 2009)

Did the battery mod on the cactus today. Even tho the 2AA holder I got from RS doesn't have an on/off switch, it works perfectly with the regular on/off switch. :thumbup:


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