# Zoo togs...what is on your do and don't list?



## slackercruster (Jul 30, 2012)

Like shooting at the zoo? What is on your do and don't list?

Equip to take or leave whether photo or otherwise?

Successes and failures? 

Areas that have wasted your time or produced well for you?


Thanks!


----------



## SCraig (Jul 30, 2012)

I hit the Nashville Zoo once every week or so.  The majority of the time I use the same things: My 70-300 lens, my SB-700, and if I'm shooting in the aquarium area, and off-camera flash cord.

For areas with a wire fence, use the largest aperture you can get away with and forget the flash.  The large aperture will normally prevent seeing the fence at all, but a flash will reflect off of it making it visible as a cross-hatched haze on the image.

For areas with a glass wall I put my lens hood directly against the glass to eliminate reflections as much as possible.  If I need to use a flash I use an off-camera cord and hold the flash in one hand and the camera in the other, separated by as much distance as I can get.

I've found a tripod to be little more than a nuisance.  People are always tripping over it or I can't find room to set it up or something.  If I use my 150-500 lens then I take a monopod but have pretty much given up on trying to use a tripod.  Just too many people around most of the time.

Sharpness is everything.  If you can't count the hairs on a cat or the scales on a fish then it isn't sharp enough.  I normally shoot around f/8 and with as much shutter speed as I can get.  With my D90 I usually shot at ISO 400 but with my D7000 I can raise that to ISO 1600 without any significant noise in properly exposed images.


----------



## Robin Usagani (Jul 30, 2012)

I usually hate zoo photos.  The distracting background, the fencing, the faux rock.  Last time I went, this is the only shot I truly liked.  The black background is actually a shed and he just happened to look at me and the shed line is exactly in the middle of the head.


----------



## MTVision (Jul 30, 2012)

Schwettylens said:
			
		

> I usually hate zoo photos.  The distracting background, the fencing, the faux rock.  Last time I went, this is the only shot I truly liked.  The black background is actually a shed and he just happened to look at me and the shed line is exactly in the middle of the head.



I usually don't like zoo photos either! But there is this one lady who frequents another forum who takes AMAZING zoo photos. I'll try to find a link to her work - they definitely don't look like they were taken in a zoo!


----------



## Robin Usagani (Jul 30, 2012)

MTVision said:


> Schwettylens said:
> 
> 
> 
> ...



Yeah, some zoos are better than other.  Denver zoo... not so much.  When it is a great day to go to the zoo, usually the animals are hiding in the shade.  Hiding in the shade = closer to the faux background.  Usually they put trees farther away from the barrier so the animals cant climb and hop over the fence.  Even when I had my 100-400, still not good enough.


----------



## Seefutlung (Jul 30, 2012)

slackercruster said:


> Like shooting at the zoo? What is on your do and don't list?
> 
> Equip to take or leave whether photo or otherwise?
> 
> ...



I always go as long as I can.  The longer the better in order to eliminate zoo clutter ... Watch the background and the light and position oneself to take advantage of both.

Gary

#1






#2





#3





#4





Gary


----------



## snowbear (Jul 30, 2012)

I don't have a large selection of lenses (currently only 24mm, 50mm & 105mm) so I am somewhat limited in range.  A agree that the backgrounds and cage/glass foregrounds are usually bad, but I'll just try and get what I can.

The giraffe and prairie dogs are at the Maryland Zoo @ Baltimore; the owls are at a local nature center (b&w film scan).


----------



## slackercruster (Jul 30, 2012)

1x a week...WOW. I have not been to the zoo in a few decades. No zoo close by me. Maybe 1hr 15min drive.

Never thought about taking a flash. The old zoos I went to were mostly outdoors / animals far away. Monopod vs tripod sounds good.


----------



## SCraig (Jul 30, 2012)

Well, heck.  I didn't realize we were supposed to post examples:

Clouded Leopard Cub - Nashville Zoo





Cougar Cub - Nashville Zoo





Jaguar - Chattanooga Zoo






Cotton-topped Tamarin - Chattanooga Zoo


----------



## slackercruster (Jul 30, 2012)

SCraig said:


> Well, heck.  I didn't realize we were supposed to post examples:
> 
> Clouded Leopard Cub - Nashville Zoo
> 
> ...




Sure post away....ALWAYS!

This is a *photo* forum right?

Thanks!


----------



## MTVision (Jul 30, 2012)

slackercruster said:
			
		

> 1x a week...WOW. I have not been to the zoo in a few decades. No zoo close by me. Maybe 1hr 15min drive.
> 
> Never thought about taking a flash. The old zoos I went to were mostly outdoors / animals far away. Monopod vs tripod sounds good.



Right! I went to the zoo for the first time in a decade last October. I live in rural Vermont so the closest zoo is around 3 hours away. There is a zoo in Canada that is probably closer but now you need a passport to cross the border


----------



## SCraig (Jul 30, 2012)

slackercruster said:


> 1x a week...WOW. I have not been to the zoo in a few decades. No zoo close by me. Maybe 1hr 15min drive.
> 
> Never thought about taking a flash. The old zoos I went to were mostly outdoors / animals far away. Monopod vs tripod sounds good.


I'm sure some zoos are still that way.  I've only been to three, one in Phoenix, one in Nashville, and one in Chattanooga.  At all three of those my 70-300 lens was plenty.  I occasionally haul my 150-500 to the Nashville zoo but when I do it's normally for a specific shot of a specific animal.  When I went to the Chattanooga zoo I had my 150-500 in the car but didn't need it.  When I went to Phoenix I didn't even take it with me.

The zoo here in Nashville is only about 2 miles from my home and I keep an annual membership.  In the spring and fall I stop there a lot after work and just walk around for a while to clear my head.  It's close enough that I can go a lot and I've been so many times I know where everything is, what I'm going for, what is new, etc.


----------



## 12sndsgood (Jul 30, 2012)

I try to get there as soon as ours open. cooler temperatures mean more movement and its usually when they are feeding the tigers and bears so they are more active. I usually end up using my 70-200. i try to keep any man made looking object out of the picture, try to keep it as natural as possible. I'f im shooting thru Plexi I will take my lens hood off so I am as close to it as possible. And shoot for the eyes usually.

heres a few of mine from the Indianapolis zoo.




Zoo0013 by Square1 photography, on Flickr




Zoo0011 by Square1 photography, on Flickr




zoo0028 by Square1 photography, on Flickr




zoo0030 by Square1 photography, on Flickr


----------



## SCraig (Jul 30, 2012)

12sndsgood said:


> I try to get there as soon as ours open. cooler temperatures mean more movement and its usually when they are feeding the tigers and bears so they are more active. I usually end up using my 70-200. i try to keep any man made looking object out of the picture, try to keep it as natural as possible. I'f im shooting thru Plexi I will take my lens hood off so I am as close to it as possible. And shoot for the eyes usually.


That is another excellent point that I forgot about.  Early in the morning and late in the afternoon the animals KNOW it's time for them to be fed, and they will start to get a lot more active.  In the morning after they eat they get lazy and want to take a nap.  I see the cats here pacing back and forth late in the afternoon just waiting for the handlers to feed them.

Many of the animals will get a lot more active when it's cool but others won't.  It depends on what climate their species comes from.  In the winter around here the Lemurs will form up in a big "Lemur Ball" trying to keep each other warm since they come from a warm climate.  On the other hand the Snow Leopards at the Chattanooga Zoo were nearly comatose from the heat when I was there a few weeks ago since their species comes from mountainous areas where it's cold.  Most cats love cooler weather but some of the smaller animals don't.


----------



## Seefutlung (Jul 30, 2012)

slackercruster said:


> 1x a week...WOW. I have not been to the zoo in a few decades. No zoo close by me. Maybe 1hr 15min drive.
> 
> Never thought about taking a flash. The old zoos I went to were mostly outdoors / animals far away. Monopod vs tripod sounds good.



A flash can be very helpful, especially as fill and/or for some very cool catch-lights.

Gary


----------



## amolitor (Jul 30, 2012)

Longer is better. The only time I did anything I liked at the zoo was with my 300mm on the crop sensor. Pow.


----------



## slackercruster (Jul 30, 2012)

SCraig said:


> 12sndsgood said:
> 
> 
> > I try to get there as soon as ours open. cooler temperatures mean more movement and its usually when they are feeding the tigers and bears so they are more active. I usually end up using my 70-200. i try to keep any man made looking object out of the picture, try to keep it as natural as possible. I'f im shooting thru Plexi I will take my lens hood off so I am as close to it as possible. And shoot for the eyes usually.
> ...



Never thought about winter. We get snow here. Thought the zoo would be a bust in the snow. Maybe not?


----------



## Overread (Jul 30, 2012)

Some of these might be repeat points, but here are my tips and views

1) Don't take the family. If you're going to the zoo to take photos you want to go with your own freedom to move around at your speed; and photographers taking photos move very very slow if at all. If you take the family you'll be taking pics of them and enjoying your time with them rather than focusing upon your photography. Taking (non photographer) friends also fits under this title. 

2) Keep an eye on your bag. Esp if you sit down and take it off to remain in one spot shooting don't let yourself forget about it. Most zoos are going to be pretty safe and you don't have to panic, just keep your wits about you though. 

3) Plan - check the feeding and activity time sheets and work out what animals you'd like to see, when and at what times would be suitable (at busy zoos you'll want to get to any feed/events a little early to get a good seat). Also remember that sometimes you'll want to roam and see many animals or set yourself down and watch one or two for the day (remember the longer you're at a specific pen the more chance you have to see something). 

4) Get there early, most zoos tend to open a little later than many places, but you'll want to get there as early as you can (esp in summer). You maximise your time and your light for shooting, softer morning light is easier to work with than the strong, harsh sunlight of midday. 

5) Talk to the keepers - sometimes easier at smaller venues over bigger ones, but when you get the chance do strike up conversation. Often you can get a little insight into the animals, find out when specific ones might be a little more or less active or if any have any special times when they are going to be doing a specific activity. This is also important if you visit a single zoo/wildlife centre on a regular basis - a good rapport might even open a few more doors if you're lucky - zoos might open later but are often active well before opening hours in preparation. 

6) Polarizers/rubber lens hoods/black sheets  -- all these can be invaluble when working with glass at a zoo. Each can cut down on reflections off the glass and thus give you clear shots. Always get the lens up as close as you can to minimise the problem. Circular Polarizers will cut down reflections, however will also cut out around 1-2 stops of light. Rubber lens hoods let you push the lens right up to the glass and block out all side lights (easier than fixed hoods but they can do this too, unless they are petal shaped). Black sheets of card attached to the end of a lens cast a larger area of black and thus block out more chances of distracting light/reflections (again must be pressed up to the glass to work)

7) Wire - get up close to it. Often this will eliminate it totally, however this is not always a possibility (esp at most big cat pens which often have 2 barriers and prevent you to get close to the wire). When wire gets in the way you can sometimes correct it if you use a layer mask in editing and boost the contrast (since it shows as a grey/hazy area of lower contrast). 

8) Flash - can help you avoid harsh shadows upon your subjects (esp during the brighter midday sun) and be invaluable as the light dims in morning and evenings (and on cloudy days - so mostly every day in the uk ). So do consider making full use of it as you can. However always keep keep your eyes open, many subjects will be totally used to and ignore the flash, however if there are ever any warning signs on the pens/enclosure not to use flash or if any animal appears to be reacting to the flash in a negative manner (growling/snarling/roaring) then stop using it (you might also want to remove the flash if you're using an external speedlite flash - not only might it calm the animal, but it also will put at ease any passing keepers). 

9) Tripods - personally I'd leave it behind unless you've firm plans to camp out at a specific pen for a long period of time, also make sure you know the zoo, some can be cramped on space and you'll be pretty unpopular if you cause a blockage. IF you're taking a long lens I'd certainly take a monopod - a bit of help for handholding (esp if you don't have IS/OS/VR) and takes a bit of the strain out of things if you're using a very heavy lens.

10) for lenses I'd favour a zoom over a prime, mostly as zoos have a wide range of sizes and distances of subjects and pens and thus you tend to find (esp if you're moving around) that you'll benefit from the versatility. A 70-200mm  (+1.4TC) is an ideal lens for the zoo, esp if you back it up with a quality long prime. However 100-400mm, 70-300mm, 50-500mm etc... lenses are great and not too heavy nor bulky options to take.


----------



## slackercruster (Jul 30, 2012)

Great list!!

I never heard of blacksheets. Will have to check them out.


----------



## SCraig (Jul 30, 2012)

slackercruster said:


> Never thought about winter. We get snow here. Thought the zoo would be a bust in the snow. Maybe not?


Ours is open year-round however some of the animals that can't handle the cold (or extreme heat in summer) will be taken off of display.  At 40 and above everything is out but below 40 some of the more sensitive species stay inside where it's warm.  I'm sure that varies from zoo to zoo though.



Overread said:


> 2) Keep an eye on your bag. Esp if you sit down and take it off to remain in one spot shooting don't let yourself forget about it. Most zoos are going to be pretty safe and you don't have to panic, just keep your wits about you though.


I put my foot through the shoulder strap of my bag every time I sit it down.  I'd rather be a bit paranoid than go home without most of my gear.


----------



## Overread (Jul 30, 2012)

"blacksheets" are just a regular sheet of black card with a hole in the middle. The idea is that the sheet of black card blocks reflections and light from behind


----------



## Seefutlung (Jul 30, 2012)

G


----------



## Forkie (Jul 31, 2012)

Shooting at the zoo is fun, but I usually come out with fewer photos than I'd like.  Unless I can get a shot that at least looks like the animal might be in the wild, I don't bother with the shot!




Lionesses by Forkie, on Flickr



Toco Toucan by Forkie, on Flickr



Red Panda by Forkie, on Flickr



Cheetah by Forkie, on Flickr


----------



## slackercruster (Jul 31, 2012)

Overread said:


> "blacksheets" are just a regular sheet of black card with a hole in the middle. The idea is that the sheet of black card blocks reflections and light from behind



Thanks.

I thought it was a card you would hold above the lens. Makes sense with the whole cut in it. 

About what size works best and is still small enough to lug around?


----------



## slackercruster (Jul 31, 2012)

Forkie said:


> Shooting at the zoo is fun, but I usually come out with fewer photos than I'd like.  Unless I can get a shot that at least looks like the animal might be in the wild, I don't bother with the shot!
> 
> 
> Lionesses by Forkie, on Flickr
> ...




Nice work!


----------



## slackercruster (Jul 31, 2012)

Seefutlung said:


> G




Xlnt work!!

Really like the one with the fence. It didn't stop a great shot.


----------



## Overread (Jul 31, 2012)

I've honestly never tried with the black sheet method to know - its a method I've picked up in passing when chatting to others, but never had the situation where I'd put it into effect. I'd say you don't want to go too large though as remember the glass at most zoos isn't huge. 


Also I forgot one item from my list:
Plan what DAY you go. If you want to do photography avoid weekends, bank holidays and any other major event that will result in increased people attending. In short try your best to visit during the "offpeak" periods. That not only means you'll have a quieter day, but also have more chance to move where you want to without having to jostle a large crowed or have people walking in front of you the whole time (most people are pretty friendly about it, but you will either get rude ones who walk infront or large crowds waiting to cross the path of your lens). 
As a bonus you've also more chance of chatting to keepers or staff on less busy periods for a bit of networking.


----------



## 12sndsgood (Jul 31, 2012)

To add to what overread mentioned. I tend to go thru the zoo backwards to the normal layout. most zoos I have gone thru kind of have a natural path that peaople follow. I tend to go backwards, sometimes when it opens I will usuallly go straight to the back of the zoo. most people will start at the front and work there way around, so this gives you a bit more time to get shots uninterrupted by the majority of people.  

Also if this is something you like, get a pass. This allows you to come out in the morning, shoot for an hour or two until the crowds start coming in and forming and leaving without feeling like you didn't get your moneis worth.


----------



## Seefutlung (Jul 31, 2012)

A lot of good advice, I am taking notes for my next trip. Thanks Y'all - Gary


----------



## slackercruster (Jul 31, 2012)

Good point. Maybe will go after al the kids are back in school.


----------

