# kodak gold 400 in d76



## rom4n301

i wanna cross process a roll of kodak gold 400 in d76 anyone knows what times i should use.. oh and i mix 6oz water with 6oz d76


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## Torus34

What do you expect to achieve by this?


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## compur

rom4n301 said:


> i wanna cross process a roll of kodak gold 400 in d76 anyone knows what times i should use.. oh and i mix 6oz water with 6oz d76



I would just use the time for Tri-X as a start.

Or, you could use something like Diafine which recommends the same times
for most films.


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## rom4n301

Torus34 said:


> What do you expect to achieve by this?



honestly.. i have no idea.. i jus have a roll with only 4 shots cause i exposed the rest by accident.. so i thought y not just screw around with the roll.. ive been thinking of throwing it in the microwave for a second.. maybe do some of the things mentioned on lomography.com


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## rom4n301

compur said:


> I would just use the time for Tri-X as a start.
> 
> Or, you could use something like Diafine which recommends the same times
> for most films.



thanks.. i think ima try that that diafine thing


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## Dwig

The big question is still "what are you trying to accomplish?"

If you simply develop and fix a color neg or E-6 film in B&W chemicals you will _not_ end up with printable negatives. All of the color dye layers will still be present and will still be rather opaque.


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## compur

Dwig said:


> The big question is still "what are you trying to accomplish?"
> 
> If you simply develop and fix a color neg or E-6 film in B&W chemicals you will _not_ end up with printable negatives.



Any color film can be developed in a B&W developer to yield a B&W negative image.

See:
C-41 process - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia
... section under "Cross processing"

Here are some C41/B&W example photos:
Flickr: Discussing E-6 and C-41 in B&W??? in Cross Processing - XP - XPRO - XPROCESS


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## Dwig

If you'll note the last paragraph in the "cross processing" section it states:

"C41 film can be processed in standard black and white chemicals, to produce a monochrome negative image. The negatives will typically be of very low contrast, and cloudy, partly caused by the orange mask."

The cloudiness they refer to is a result of the residual unremoved dye components in the unexposed portions of the image remaining in the emulsion. Simple fixing does not remove these effectively. The bleach step in the color process is the step that clears the uncoupled dyes; a step missing when using conventional B&W chemistry.


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## christopher walrath

I think what is trying to be accomplished here is absolutely nothing.  Ruined roll.  Always wanted to try it out.  Let's just see what the heck happens.  Why not.  Go for it.  My signature on another forum says 'Oh, and . . . HAVE SOME FUN ALREADY'.  I've started screwing around with stuff just to see what happens.  I've spent a lot of time on the technical hook.  For a while I'm embracing the nonsense.  Can't do it, bull.  I'm having fun.  The magazine is going great.  One of these days I'm gonna get around to printing.  I love my family, my job and my life.

I'M HAVING FUN!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!  Besides, if they're looking at me weird, I'm probably doing something right.


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## rom4n301

christopher walrath said:


> I think what is trying to be accomplished here is absolutely nothing.  Ruined roll.  Always wanted to try it out.  Let's just see what the heck happens.  Why not.  Go for it.  My signature on another forum says 'Oh, and . . . HAVE SOME FUN ALREADY'.  I've started screwing around with stuff just to see what happens.  I've spent a lot of time on the technical hook.  For a while I'm embracing the nonsense.  Can't do it, bull.  I'm having fun.  The magazine is going great.  One of these days I'm gonna get around to printing.  I love my family, my job and my life.
> 
> I'M HAVING FUN!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!  Besides, if they're looking at me weird, I'm probably doing something right.



completly agree... im probably try to process it in like 2 weeks cuz i got break and my schools chemicals is all i got access to =]


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## compur

Dwig said:


> If you'll note the last paragraph in the "cross processing" section it states:
> 
> "C41 film can be processed in standard black and white chemicals, to produce a monochrome negative image. The negatives will typically be of very low contrast, and cloudy, partly caused by the orange mask."
> 
> The cloudiness they refer to is a result of the residual unremoved dye components in the unexposed portions of the image remaining in the emulsion. Simple fixing does not remove these effectively. The bleach step in the color process is the step that clears the uncoupled dyes; a step missing when using conventional B&W chemistry.



My post was simply a reply to your post in which you stated that
developing color print film with B&W developer _will not produce a printable
negative_. It may not be pretty but it will produce a printable negative and
I gave a link to some examples.  I'm aware of the contrast and orange
mask and dye issues with color film however doing this with B&W C-41 films such
as Ilford XP-2 gives much better results.


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## xypex982

I'll soon be devoloping some c-41 rolls in hc-110. A fresh roll of gold 800, expired gold 200 and 400, memories 200, expired samsung 200, and possibly a very old kodak instamatic propitary cartrige of film.

Yup lots of rolls, most of em shot in my lomo cameras. If I get decent results, I may just continue using .99c store film in my Diana and devoloping them in black and white chems.


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## xypex982

These are the results of Gold 800 in HC-110 that was shot with my Diana.
Diana with Gold 800 crossed processed - a set on Flickr


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## rom4n301

those are some pretty cool shots.. ima try n develop my roll on monday or tuesday.. i really gatta buy chemicals so i can do the ish at home


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## rom4n301

well.. i developed my film and it super fogy.. and there were spots =/, i think there was some fixer in the developing tank before i started.. oh well it was worth the attempt


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## xypex982

Im sorry to hear that 
I was wondering if anyone knows if I should up the temp of the chems. Last time I did it I was doing 68-70 F (the normal temp for b/w) but I know when you do c-41 its like what 90F? Would I get better results developing @ a "normal" c-41 temp? I ask because I have a roll of Kodak bw400 c-41, and some dollar store Memories 200 c-41 film (5 rolls in total) I wanna try developing and just wanna try and refine my results compared to last time.


What did you use, was it gold 400, and how long did you dev & fix for rom?


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