# HELP! Purple Negatives!



## Prophet

I have developed two rolls of film and both have come out with a Purple tone to the negative. The first roll wasn't that bad but the second one was very noticable. When I go to print, they come out very grey. This is ticking me off cause this is exactly what was happening when I was in high school. Any thoughts? I am thinking I am not leaving it in the fixer long enough. I am leaving them in for 10 minutes at 68 degrees. All my chemicals are pretty much spot on at 68 degrees. HELP!

-Jeremy-


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## ksmattfish

I think it's the fixer.  

Either it's weak, or you're not agitating enough.  The good news is that you can re-fix your purple negs.  Try it again and make sure that you are mixing it according to the manufacturer's instructions.  Get a bottle of hypo-check and use it to test for exhausted fixer. 

Take the bit of film leader that you cut off to put it on to the reel and dip it halfway in the fixer.  Time how long it takes to make the submerged half clear.  Double that time and you have your proper fixing time.

Sometimes Kodak film just stays a bit purple, but it shouldn't effect your printing.


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## Prophet

I developed my third roll on saturday. After 13 minutes of fixing (normal powder kodak fixer) I looked at the film and it still had a purple hugh to it. I then rinsed for 1 minute and it still had that tone to it. I then used hypo-clear and it took most of the hugh away, but it still had a slight purple hugh to it. 

When printing how can you get around the hugh, because (being the beginner I am) I would think that the hugh would cause the print to be grey.

-Jeremy-


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## ksmattfish

I would have to see your negs to assess.

I too get some purple tint on Kodak film, but it's not enough to noticably affect the printing, and it tends to fade with time.  

If you have major purple left it means there is still gunk that should be washed away by the fixer.  This gunk is increasing the density of your neg, and would affect printing.  If re-fixing doesn't work, then the film is probably old, or heat or x-ray damaged.

Your problem is not uncommon.  I've had it happen to me, and talked to lots of others who've had it too.    

Are you using Kodak Tmax films?  Tmax 100 and 400 are most prone to this problem, but I've had it happen with Tri-X too.  Usually I would think that 10 min of fixing should be good for Tmax films.  Kodak is sometimes called the "purple monster". 

If you keep having the problem then you might try using a rapid fixer or increasing your agitation during fixing.  If this doesn't work then try out Ilford films.


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## oriecat

Also, try another brand of film and see if it still happens.


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## photoman

I am also having trouble with purple negatives.
I developed T-max 400 and 100 in T-Max developer for the recommened time and fixed them in Kodafix liquid fixer (usually around 8 min at around 70 degrees), and then use the powder hypo and usually hypo for 1.5-2 min at 70 degrees. 
I havent had a problem with the purple cast except on iso 100 which has a very slight cast to it.

The problem I have come across is that I want to start to try Tri-x or TX 400. But when i use kodaks suggested time for fixing (2-4 mins) (it seems very short) and then hypo, and wash It comes back very pink or purple.

1) The question is do i just need to re hypo for longer?

2) Use longer Fixing time?

3) If so what times do you use for fixing and hypo?

4) Will I lose highlights and will they wash out the negatives?

5) Which bath washes out the red stain?

6) Do all kodaks films use the red dye in the film? (Any kodak film I buy will have this red stain)

Thank you for your time
Its a relativly long post


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## ksmattfish

Instead of using manufacturer's recommended times do a clearing test.  Take an undeveloped sample of the film (the film leader snipet from 35mm rolls works great), and dip it halfway into the fixer.  Time how long it takes to clear, and use double this time when fixing the rolls.


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## Prophet

Photoman,

I would definately fix for atleast 10 minutes. The book I have been going by says to fix for 10 minutes. My last roll of 400 Tmax I fixed for 13 minutes and it looked much better. I just printed a few of my shots and they came out pretty good. I would try fixing for alteast 10 and maybe even stretch it to 15. I was told by the owner of my local photo shop that fixing won't bleach out the negs unless you fix for huge amounts of time, like an hour. I would also recommend using the hypo clear. The hypo clear really helped. I used it on my 3rd roll and it helped. Give it a shot.

-Jeremy-


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## photoman

Do you know if the hypo clear with time longer than 2:00 mins will wash out the negatives?

I do use hypo clear on the negatives for a little under 2:00 mins at around 70 degrees F.

Thanks for the info


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## ksmattfish

Hypo clear isn't any more dangerous for your film than water.  Eventually, if you soak your film long enough, the emulsion could swell or become damaged, but I think that would require very long times.

I always use hypo clear on film and fiber paper.  Mostly because all the manufacturers recommend it.  It significantly reduces washing times.


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## Tyjax

Possibly unrelated. But I just developed my first roll of Agfapan 100 and it tinted my developer purple!?! But the negatives were great. Scared teh bejeebers out of my when I poured the developer back in the bottle and it was purple.


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## Prophet

I was getting the same thing on my first and third roll but not on the second so much. That must be the dies and some of the emulsion (i think?) being removed and washed away. I was actually getting purple and a tan color. I don't remember either happening when I first started doing this 10 years ago.

-Jeremy-


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## Mitica100

Prophet said:
			
		

> I have developed two rolls of film and both have come out with a Purple tone to the negative. -Jeremy-




Arrrgh...  :x   It must be T-max, right?  Had the same problem years ago when using their recommended developer.  I switched to Xtol (I dunno if they still make this one) and problem was gone.  Even so, I decided to work with AGFA film.


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## havoc

T-Max film is just supposed to have a purple tint to it, from what i have heard it is to help with some contrast issues that would be in the film without the tint. (Of course i have no evidence to prove that unfortunatly)
I have never needed to run my film in fixer for that long, even at school where we all share the fixer i only nedd 6 minutes total time. (And the school fixer is generally pretty weak.)  We do rince well before the hypo, 2-3 minutes in regular water. And use a good Hypoclear. The Hypo is used for 2 minutes. And that gets most of the purple out. I personally wouldn't be conserned or be trying to get all the purple out, Your more likely to harm the film with 15 minute fix times then help. 
I have noticed that alot of color films also have a purplish tint to them, (usually kodak). I am pretty sure thats the way its supposed to be.


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## motcon

tmax films require a much longer fix time than other films, but not 15 minutes....

purple is normal for some kodak films (Matt and hav covered this).

if you continue to have problems, you must post all development info in order for anyone to help.

film ei
developer
time
temp
agitation method
presoak?
type of stop/time
fix/time
clear?
wash time.

otherwise, learn to love purple


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## jenny

Do you recycle your chemicals? It might be time to use some new ones. I've had purple negatives before. I don't think it ever affected the way my pictures printed though.


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## Josh

Ok Ok....let's nip this in the bub

Bad news: yes it is under fixed (T-max dose need longer fix times, so do some other films). YOU CAN NOT OVERFIX! Go ahead and fix for 15min. I do all the time. And try using nice fresh fix. I have found that Ilfords fix works better than kodak. Don't wory about making sure that the temp of the fix is 68*; what are you going to do...fix it too much? You can't =)

Good news: you can re-fix your old negs. Stick them back in the fix untel they look right. Rinse and print =)

Trust me on this one, I have diveloped thousands of roles (used to own a custom lab).


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