# Need fast autofocus dslr



## hamlet (Jun 1, 2014)

I have been trying to get some shots of outdoor skateboarding and dirt bike action shots. I'm using my d3200 and the only way i can get a picture of fast action shots is to use manual focus, the autofocus takes way too long to focus and misses the subject more often than not. My budget is about 3 grand.


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## SCraig (Jun 1, 2014)

You do, of course, realize that people have been taking photographs of action sports since long before autofocus even existed, right?  You don't need another camera, you need to learn to use the one that you have.


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## hamlet (Jun 1, 2014)

SCraig said:


> You do, of course, realize that people have been taking photographs of action sports since long before autofocus even existed, right?  You don't need another camera, you need to learn to use the one that you have.



It is pretty hard with my small viewfinder.


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## ronlane (Jun 1, 2014)

What glass are you using?


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## Derrel (Jun 1, 2014)

hamlet said:


> SCraig said:
> 
> 
> > You do, of course, realize that people have been taking photographs of action sports since long before autofocus even existed, right?  You don't need another camera, you need to learn to use the one that you have.
> ...



The viewfinder of the D3200 is very poor compared to some of the pentaprism-type viewfinders that have larger, clearer viewfinder images. But, uh...I used to shoot sports action with the D1h and the D70, which had primitive AF modules compared to what a D3200 has.

How about a D7100 and a GOOD lens that focuses FAST, like say the 85/1.8 AF-S G? The D7100's viewfinder is noticeable clearer, bigger, and better than the squinty little finder image the D3200 has. Two weekends ago, a woman asked me to take a family shot of her and her hubby and kids...she handed me a D3000 and 18-105mm zoom, and OhMyyyyGaaaawd...the view through the finder was really small and looked dreadful. I could not even see their expressions, so I aimed the camera at them, pressed and held the shutter button, then took my eye away from the viewfinder and looked over the pentaprism and looked at THEM, in the flesh, and I shot my three shots when they looked "good together"...but I could not use the viewfinder as an aid; the finder image was instead a hindrance.

You could do the same thing (pre-focus, then wait for the right time on a FIXED location), on something like a fixed jump ramp or rail-slide pipe, but that's not the same as being able to actually FOLLOW action, wherever it occurs.

WHAT LENS are you using? The 70-200 VR-1 focuses as fast on the old D70 as it does on the D3x for ONE-shot focus acquisition...Nikon's 70-200/2.8 lenses seem to be their fastest-focusing lenses, according to people who've compared Nikons with many high-end lenses, like Rob Galbraith.com before he quit the site. I would characterize his feelings as this: Nikon has optimized AF speed and performance not for their 300/2.8, nor their 400/2.8, but for their 70-200 f/2.8 zoom. A used 70-200 VR-1 would be easily had for under $2k, and is a FAST-focusing lens, even on older, lower-tech AF modules and bodies, like the D70, or the Fuji S2 Pro, which was an N80 body!!


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## SCraig (Jun 1, 2014)

hamlet said:


> It is pretty hard with my small viewfinder.


It has nothing to do with the size of the viewfinder either.  It has to do with Depth of Field, focusing at the middle of that depth, and not changing the focus again.  Or, focus at the near edge of the hyperfocal distance and everything from there to infinity will be in focus.  Photographers, myself included, have been using that technique for decades and it works perfectly well.


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## jaomul (Jun 1, 2014)

Did you not have a d800 that you gave away?


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## sonicbuffalo (Jun 1, 2014)

The D7100 is a fast focusing (51 points) camera that I happen to have for sale!


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## astroNikon (Jun 1, 2014)

Thought you were just about to buy a D4S ?


Instead of waiting for the shot and then pushing the release, follow it and do half presses to keep focus short and fast.  Then hit the release fully when you want the shot

And what options do you have to AF modes ?
if you have it, use Dynamic 9 or single point.


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## hamlet (Jun 1, 2014)

I am using the 70-200 vrii just to get that out of the way.


So the d7100 is something you would praise for its autonomous? It sure has a lot of focus points and the viewfinder does look as big as the full frame dslr's.


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## sonicbuffalo (Jun 1, 2014)

I have the 70-200 vr II also.....great lens!


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## hamlet (Jun 1, 2014)

astroNikon said:


> Thought you were just about to buy a D4S ?


I have made the choice not to spend that kind of cash on bodies and instead put the other half towards good glass.


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## hamlet (Jun 1, 2014)

sonicbuffalo said:


> I have the 70-200 vr II also.....great lens!



What camera did you own before the d7100 and how much contrast was there personally for you between the d7100's af and the af of your lower model camera?


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## 480sparky (Jun 1, 2014)

First, let's find out what AF mode the OP is using.

AF-S?
AF-A?
AF-C?


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## hamlet (Jun 1, 2014)

480sparky said:


> First, let's find out what AF mode the OP is using.
> 
> AF-S?
> AF-A?
> AF-C?



I chose the man on the surfboard.


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## 480sparky (Jun 1, 2014)

hamlet said:


> 480sparky said:
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> > First, let's find out what AF mode the OP is using.
> ...




OK, now we know your subject matter.  Now let's see what AF mode you're going to choose.


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## hamlet (Jun 1, 2014)

480sparky said:


> hamlet said:
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I chose the motorcycle, the lady on the horse and the two kids playing swords, i did not get any improvements.


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## Scatterbrained (Jun 1, 2014)

hamlet said:


> 480sparky said:
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:???:


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## 480sparky (Jun 1, 2014)

hamlet said:


> 480sparky said:
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Let's try this again.

What mode of AF are you using?  Not what subject are you shooting.


What mode (a setting _on your camera_... a choice you make _on your camera_.... an option to select _on the camera_) of AF are you using?

Not kids in the backyard on bicycles.  Not skateboarders at the park.  Not knights riding around at the Renaissance Faire.


*What AF setting on the camera are you choosing?*


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## TheNevadanStig (Jun 1, 2014)

Dirt bikes and skateboarders are fairly large, slow moving targets. I suspect if you are ready to throw out a camera over something like this, you are still not going to be happy with your next purchase until you improve your technique a little better. Also, the focusing speed is going to be more dependent on lens with the camera. Remember, the focusing motors are in the lenses, not the body.
I have about the cheapest tele lens you can get for that body, and have done motocross a few times without issue.

https://www.flickr.com/photos/117832291@N02/sets/72157644781204823/


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## hamlet (Jun 1, 2014)

480sparky said:


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af-c and dynamic-area af


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## gsgary (Jun 1, 2014)

There should not be any problem getting the shots with what you have, this shot was taken with a Canon 10D your camera should be much better







And no problem with object comiing towards camera at 1/60 with second curtain sinc


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## 480sparky (Jun 1, 2014)

hamlet said:


> af-c and dynamic-area af



How many focus points?


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## TheNevadanStig (Jun 1, 2014)

hamlet said:


> 480sparky said:
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Try using single point af. You need to keep tracking the moving target, and fire off bursts as it goes by.


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## hamlet (Jun 1, 2014)

480sparky said:


> hamlet said:
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11


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## hamlet (Jun 1, 2014)

TheNevadanStig said:


> hamlet said:
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Single point won't lock on for some reason. My camera just keeps looking for the target and never fires off a shot.


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## 480sparky (Jun 1, 2014)

hamlet said:


> 480sparky said:
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Load the images into View NX2 and see which point(s) the camera used to obtain focus.


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## TheNevadanStig (Jun 1, 2014)

hamlet said:


> TheNevadanStig said:
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Try it on a stationary object, like a wall. If it's still not working, something is malfunctioning, and you need to get it in for a service, not a new camera. If it locks on to the wall no problem, then you know YOU are just missing the focus point.


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## 480sparky (Jun 1, 2014)

TheNevadanStig said:


> Try it on a stationary object, like a wall. If it's still not working, something is malfunctioning, and you need to get it in for a service, not a new camera. If it locks on to the wall no problem, then you know YOU are just missing the focus point.



It can be functioning just perfect, but may not focus on a plain wall.  AF modules work with _contrast_, not flat surfaces.


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## Scatterbrained (Jun 1, 2014)

480sparky said:


> TheNevadanStig said:
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> > Try it on a stationary object, like a wall. If it's still not working, something is malfunctioning, and you need to get it in for a service, not a new camera. If it locks on to the wall no problem, then you know YOU are just missing the focus point.
> ...



This^. . . .cannot be reiterated enough.  AF points work with directional contrast.  Cross-Type points work with horizontal and vertical, non cross types work with either horizontal or vertical depending on which direction that point is sensitive to.  With Canon the non cross type points are actually rectangles and they are sensitive to contrast that is perpendicular to the direction of the rectangle, I'm not sure about Nikon.     General rule of thumb, if you can't discern contrast under the focus point, don't assume the camera can.   

Select the center point, which is likely to be the most sensitive; track and shoot with it and see what you get.  When you're panning lock onto and track the subject as they approach, shoot and follow through. Keep panning right through and after the shot to ensure fluid movement.


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## hamlet (Jun 1, 2014)

It doesn't want to shoot no matter how well i pan or keep the middle dot dead on my moving subject. Its why i've always shot manually up until now on moving targets. I'm currently evaluating between the d7100 and the d610, but in all honesty the DF is the camera that seems to offer me what i want, i'm not sure if i should get that because the exterior is very unique.


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## 480sparky (Jun 1, 2014)

Post a link to an unedited 'failure'.  We'll be able to tell more from that than anything else.

Let's make sure a new camera is going to solve your problem before you trot off and spend a truck-load of money on a new body.


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## hamlet (Jun 1, 2014)

I am not at liberty to post the ones i took of my friend because i promised him i wouldn't give it to other people. I will take some more tomorrow.


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## Derrel (Jun 1, 2014)

Do NOT use just the center point! That cannot be reiterated enough...use a 9- or 11-point AF approach, like Nikon expert would. Read the manual for some tips on how the system is actually designed to work. If you have a 70-200 f/2.8 lens and use a multi-point AF approach, the camera ought to have no trouble focusing on something like a skateboarder. I've shot pole vaulters with the ancient AF module in the D2x and the old 70-200 and it can follow the subjects as the approach, plant, and then go up and come toward the camera on a weird diagonal and move 16 feet from ground to top of bar in less than 1 second....a skateboarder by contrast is a slow target, and never jumps up more than three, four feet tops...

A simple group AF cluster ought to blanket the body.

Are you sure the issue is FOCUS, and not subject motion blurring? We have had many people mistakenly say they have *a focus issue* with lens A or Lens B, but then it turns out to be camera shake, or subject motion blurring. Pull some EXIF data....let's hear the focused distance, and the f/stop and shutter speed; if you're at a reasonable f/stop like say f/5.6 or f/6.3 and a reasonable speed, like say 1/800 or faster, at 20 feet you ought to have enough depth of field to simply zone focus. SO, again, are you really sure it's FOCUS that's the issue?

When you say , "*It doesn't want to shoot*" that tells me you are NOT using AF-C focusing, and that there is a focus-priority attached to the camera's setup. You're,"Doing it all wrong," as we say here in the USA...the camera needs to be in AF-C, and the shutter rlease priority needs to be on frame rate, not focus. Again....at 10,15,20 feet at f/5.6 or f/6.3, you ought to have PLENTY of DOF, and ought to be able to shoot a shot that **IS** slightly out of focus with the lens wide-open, but which WILL BE in the DOF band at f/6.3.


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## hamlet (Jun 1, 2014)

Derrel said:


> Do NOT use just the center point! That cannot be reiterated enough...use a 9- or 11-point AF approach, like Nikon expert would. Read the manual for some tips on how the system is actually designed to work. If you have a 70-200 f/2.8 lens and use a multi-point AF approach, the camera ought to have no trouble focusing on something like a skateboarder. I've shot pole vaulters with the ancient AF module in the D2x and the old 70-200 and it can follow the subjects as the approach, plant, and then go up and come toward the camera on a weird diagonal and move 16 feet from ground to top of bar in less than 1 second....a skateboarder by contrast is a slow target, and never jumps up more than three, four feet tops...
> 
> A simple group AF cluster ought to blanket the body.
> 
> Are you sure the issue is FOCUS, and not subject motion blurring? We have had many people mistakenly say they have *a focus issue* with lens A or Lens B, but then it turns out to be camera shake, or subject motion blurring. Pull some EXIF data....let's hear the focused distance, and the f/stop and shutter speed; if you're at a reasonable f/stop like say f/5.6 or f/6.3 and a reasonable speed, like say 1/800 or faster, at 20 feet you ought to have enough depth of field to simply zone focus. SO, again, are you really sure it's FOCUS that's the issue?


I shoot at or beyond 1/2000 and always above f5 to keep my target well within the dof. The camera focuses either on the ground, clouds or a wall behind the subject for the majority of the time, sometimes it will land on my target though.


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## Derrel (Jun 1, 2014)

hamlet said:


> *It doesn't want to shoot* no matter how well i pan or keep the middle dot dead on my moving subject. Its why i've always shot manually up until now on moving targets. I'm currently evaluating between the d7100 and the d610, but in all honesty the DF is the camera that seems to offer me what i want, i'm not sure if i should get that because the exterior is very unique.



The bolded part makes me think that You're not using the AF system properly for moving targets. A full EXIF data list might shed some light on the issues. Sometimes on forums, we forget who we're dealing with, and how much experience they have with various things in photography. And I know that English is not your first language, so perhaps there's some miscommunication going on. I know you are relatively new to high-end d-slr photography, but there is also a learning curve.


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## pgriz (Jun 1, 2014)

Maybe it's possessed.  Then even Derrel can't help you. But if it isn't, then between Sparky and Derrel, you can be helped...


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## 480sparky (Jun 1, 2014)

hamlet said:


> I shoot at or beyond 1/2000 and always above f5 to keep my target well within the dof. The camera focuses either on the ground, clouds or a wall behind the subject for the majority of the time, sometimes it will land on my target though.




Does it just 'happen' to focus on the ground, or is it actually using the ground as a focus point?  View NX2 will show you exactly which focus points were used to focus the lens.  If those points are not in focus, then something is wrong.  Fixing _that _problem may be easy..... and free.  Yeah, a Df would be nice, but a very expensive solution.


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## hamlet (Jun 1, 2014)

pgriz said:


> Maybe it's possessed.  Then even Derrel can't help you. But if it isn't, then between Sparky and Derrel, you can be helped...



I knew i shouldn't have taken the horse shoe off of my house.


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## hamlet (Jun 1, 2014)

480sparky said:


> hamlet said:
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> > I shoot at or beyond 1/2000 and always above f5 to keep my target well within the dof. The camera focuses either on the ground, clouds or a wall behind the subject for the majority of the time, sometimes it will land on my target though.
> ...



The red rectangular box is not on the target at all in viewnx.


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## 480sparky (Jun 1, 2014)

hamlet said:


> The red rectangular box is not on the target at all in viewnx.



So your AF is not choosing the correct point.  This means, at least to me, that is possible you're not setting up the AF system correctly.

When you say, 'The' focus point, there's only _one_ showing?  Even when you've selected 11 points? Only one shows up for each image?


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## hamlet (Jun 1, 2014)

480sparky said:


> hamlet said:
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> > The red rectangular box is not on the target at all in viewnx.
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Single point af does not function at all on moving targets, it won't even take the shot and just focus endlessly.


Only the dynamic focus seems to want to take any shots at all of moving targets, but nearly none of my shots lands on my intended target. The red box is all over the place, which tells me it is using different focus points as required.


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## 480sparky (Jun 1, 2014)

hamlet said:


> ........Only the dynamic focus seems to want to take any shots at all of moving targets, but nearly none of my shots lands on my intended target. The red box is all over the place, which tells me it is using different focus points as required.



Are_ those_ images in focus?


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## hamlet (Jun 1, 2014)

480sparky said:


> hamlet said:
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> > ........Only the dynamic focus seems to want to take any shots at all of moving targets, but nearly none of my shots lands on my intended target. The red box is all over the place, which tells me it is using different focus points as required.
> ...



Of course, all my sports shots are crisp, sharp and give me amazing detail of the pavement, super sharp walls and light poles in the distance. The skateboarder however is part of the background since he is not within the dof.


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## SCraig (Jun 1, 2014)

hamlet said:


> Of course, all my sports shots are crisp, sharp and give me amazing detail of the pavement, super sharp walls and light poles in the distance. The skateboarder however is part of the background since he is not within the dof.


You're doing something wrong.  I don't know what but you're doing SOMETHING wrong.  The shot below was taken with my old D60 which was the predecessor to the D3xxx series and probably less capable.  Single-point AF-C (all I ever use).  The speed limit where it was taken is 40mph and nobody on a bike ever goes that slow there.


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## 71M (Jun 1, 2014)

hamlet said:


> the autofocus takes way too long to focus and misses the subject


Prefocus then stop down.


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## astroNikon (Jun 1, 2014)

probably in AF-A or your 3 inches away from your subjects

you have photoshop and lightroom
why don't you take your friends pictures pull them into PhotoShop and smudge up their face.
then post it with full EXIF for everyone here to see.


In some of my kids soccer games I noticed that the camera would focus on some benches 50 feet behind 2 moving subjects.  Those moving subject were front center of the AF-C Dynamic 9.  And instead of choosing the 2 kids, it chose the non-moving bench 50 feet behind them.

Today the game turned into a scrimmage.  So I played around with the AF system.  
AF-A was not my friend.  It was like the camera went into auto delay before taking a photo. Ouch.

but in 9 point, depending up the lower layer of 3 pts, if it was on the grass then sometimes it would focus on the grass. I've learnt to make sure all the points are up, or shift the 9 pts up to where there are actually only 6.
I shoot at kid level, but the fields have a crest and when they are on the far side is when the AF system likes to pick the closer grass versus farther kids.  So I either move (stand up ) up a bit, or shift the af points up.

basically, you have to learn and adopt to how the AF system works.

I only use AF-S Single, or AF-C Single or Dynamic 9

of course, a d3x would help me along too but I'm not holding my breathe


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## manaheim (Jun 1, 2014)

hamlet said:


> I am using the 70-200 vrii just to get that out of the way.



bahahaha... wait... wait... You're using one of the best lenses in the Nikon lineup, and having AF problems????!!!  Either that D3200 must SUCK or you need some serious lessons in focusing.

Have you tried doing any predictive focusing? Like focusing on the area in question first, then waiting for the subject to hit the frame? Or hitting your subject with AF-S/C and tracking them?


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## astroNikon (Jun 1, 2014)

manaheim said:


> ...... or you need some serious lessons in focusing.



+1  that's my vote


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## PaulWog (Jun 1, 2014)

To reiterate about certain things that have been said:

*Technique*
1) If you're shooting at 1/2000 of a second and F5, it sounds like shake shouldn't be an issue. Nevertheless, following your subject can be very useful, depending on how you're using your camera's AF features. Also, if you're bringing yourself down to a slower shutter speed to incorporate some motion blur (while keeping the subject in focus), you'll need to follow your subject.
2) You're shooting with the 70-200 VR II. If you're at 200mm and shooting at 1/2000 of a second, and your hand-holding technique is horrendous, you could still have some issues occasionally. Just make sure you're keeping the lens very steady, although I wouldn't say this would be a big problem at 1/2000. Also, turn off the VR at 1/2000 of a second.

*Use of Features in Camera*
1) You need to check how you've set up your AF in your camera. You can experiment with things, but as mentioned previously in this thread, you should set up a multi-point AF system, and don't use single-servo (allow your camera to refocus as it decides on the moving subject).
2) Make sure you have button settings that are comfortable to you. I prefer partial-press to initiate focus, and full-press of shutter to release the shutter. Others prefer assigning a separate button for focus, instead of having partial-press of the shutter initiate focus. In any case, if you're initiating focus, and then interrupting the process partway, and then releasing the shutter, there could be interference and you could lose your subject. As mentioned in point #1 above, make sure once you've locked on to your subject, to keep focus. If you need to stop and re-lock on, then do so. It depends on what you're doing.

*Hardware*
1) You have a D3200. There is the possibility that your D3200 has a slight variation in focus in one direction, and your 70-200 VR II has a variation in focus in the other direction. This would be hardware related, and require warranty service (or adjustment in a new camera). The D3200 doesn't have focus fine-tune. Once you get a new camera, you can go through the process of fine tuning the focus. This is my biggest gripe with cameras like the D3200, which absolutely should have focus fine tuning (in my opinion it's not an 'extra' feature, it is simply basic expected functionality). This likely is not your issue, and definitely isn't the problem if you're shooting static shots (not in liveview mode) and getting the focus bang on.
2) The viewfinder is terrible on the D3200. I agree. Manual focus is an absolute pain.

I've seen a lot of your posts from when you started out and picked up your gear and your first lenses. I know how you deliberated, and I disagreed with your spending approach. I told you, I told you, I told you that your D3200 wouldn't cut it for you if you went ahead buying the way you were buying!!! That having been said, if you go ahead and get a new camera, you should still take something from this: Know how to operate your D3200 optimally. The D3200 is slower to focus, slower between focus and shutter release, etc... but you should know when you hit that limitation, and it sounds like right now you need to figure out how your autofocus features work. Don't get the D610 if you want better autofocus, the D7100 is better for that.


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## hamlet (Jun 2, 2014)

Thank you for your help gentlemen, i have sent my d3200 back for fixing and hopefully this problem will be sorted out when it gets back. In the meantime i will still look for an upgrade to the camera i've got right now.


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## PaulWog (Jun 2, 2014)

hamlet said:


> Thank you for your help gentlemen, i have sent my d3200 back for fixing and hopefully this problem will be sorted out when it gets back. In the meantime i will still look for an upgrade to the camera i've got right now.



If your D3200 focused properly on static subjects, then it didn't need to be sent in at all.


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## hamlet (Jun 2, 2014)

I too was hoping that it was only human error, but after many tests i saw no improvements. Hopefully they have some holy men at Nikon who can cast those evil spirits out of my body.


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## hamlet (Jun 2, 2014)

Ok, so after looking further into this matter it has come to my attention that this is a problem my camera inherently has for some reason. The shutter won't release until the camera thinks the focus is alright, i have since gone to the postal service and taken back my camera. Seems that it is indeed time to upgrade this camera, this focus lock prevents me from taking any pictures at all of moving subjects.


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## robbins.photo (Jun 2, 2014)

SCraig said:


> hamlet said:
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> > It is pretty hard with my small viewfinder.
> ...



Wait.. your a photographer?

Huh.  You know, it might have been nice if you'd said something about this before.. lol

Ok, I keed.. I keed..


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## robbins.photo (Jun 2, 2014)

hamlet said:


> Ok, so after looking further into this matter it has come to my attention that this is a problem my camera inherently has for some reason. The shutter won't release until the camera thinks the focus is alright, i have since gone to the postal service and taken back my camera. Seems that it is indeed time to upgrade this camera, this focus lock prevents me from taking any pictures at all of moving subjects.



Hamlet, I really would advise you to read back through this thread and see what other folks have posted regarding the autofocus system and how it works - upgrading to a different camera body really isn't going to fix the issue at least the way it's been described.  It will just be a more expensive camera body where the autofocus system will work basically the same way.  The AF system might have more points or cross points, etc - which might give you a few advantages here or there but for the most part the AF system will work much the same as the one you currently have, and the issue as you've stated it isn't going to go away when you buy another camera.


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## 480sparky (Jun 2, 2014)

hamlet said:


> Ok, so after looking further into this matter it has come to my attention that this is a problem my camera inherently has for some reason. The shutter won't release until the camera thinks the focus is alright, i have since gone to the postal service and taken back my camera. Seems that it is indeed time to upgrade this camera, this focus lock prevents me from taking any pictures at all of moving subjects.




I keep getting stopped by the police for running red lights and stop signs.  Maybe a new car will keep me from getting any more tickets.


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## hamlet (Jun 2, 2014)

robbins.photo said:


> hamlet said:
> 
> 
> > Ok, so after looking further into this matter it has come to my attention that this is a problem my camera inherently has for some reason. The shutter won't release until the camera thinks the focus is alright, i have since gone to the postal service and taken back my camera. Seems that it is indeed time to upgrade this camera, this focus lock prevents me from taking any pictures at all of moving subjects.
> ...



I appreciate your concern, but i have done my due diligence, this is something that cannot be fixed. It is a part of the design of this specific model as far as i've read through it. It is something Nikon just put into the system, so i will miss many shots while panning because of this shutter lock system, upgrading to a model that doesn't have this probably is the only way to fix this issue.


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## astroNikon (Jun 2, 2014)

from what I've just read in the d3200 manual .... for the AF Area Mode



> Option Description
> 8 Face-priority AF The camera automatically detects and focuses on portrait
> subjects. Use for portraits.
> 
> ...




it doesn't seem to have the same capabilities as the d7000 and up.
Even when I read a d5x00 manual they seems to have been handicapped by "simplified" AF Modes


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## pixmedic (Jun 2, 2014)

keep us posted on the results of the camera service and whether or not it fixes the problem.


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## robbins.photo (Jun 2, 2014)

hamlet said:


> robbins.photo said:
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Well, I'll submit this:

https://www.inkling.com/read/dummie...-1st/chapter-8/mastering-the-autofocus-system

Hopefully it will help.


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## hamlet (Jun 2, 2014)

pixmedic said:


> keep us posted on the results of the camera service and whether or not it fixes the problem.



Just like Don Quixote, i tackled that villainous postman just as he was about to run off with my package.


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## hamlet (Jun 2, 2014)

astroNikon said:


> from what I've just read in the d3200 manual .... for the AF Area Mode
> 
> 
> 
> ...



That is right. To get a great action shot it is really imperative that your camera releases the shutter when you press down completely. I just miss my shot completely because it just randomly decides when to fire off a shot, so i've hit a wall here with this camera.


----------



## astroNikon (Jun 2, 2014)

well you want an in-focus shot.
On my d7000 and d600 I have the release mode set to release ... aka, it will shot no matter if it is in focus or not. But I try to follow the action to keep everything in focus.  I also use a focus lock on my back button for instances when a soccer ball is in the air and I don't want it to focus on something else.

I saw the feature for your backbutton but I didn't see any feature for the release feature .. but I only perused your manual.  But look at the video Robbins posted.


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## PaulWog (Jun 2, 2014)

hamlet said:


> . To get a great action shot it is really imperative that your camera releases the shutter when you press down completely. I just miss my shot completely because it just randomly decides when to fire off a shot, so i've hit a wall here with this camera.



I had this issue before with my d5200, but I fixed it by reading the manual. Seriously. If you have your shutter button set up properly, you can have it shoot when you press it. 

I'll take a look at my d5200 later tonight to see if I can:
1 - reproduce your problem
And
2 - provide a satisfactory guide on how to set up the interface to override any pausing between pressing the shutter and the camera responding

Upgrading to a better Af system will get better results. However, your experience should be a fair bit different than it is now once the d3200 is configured as you want it to be. I know the d5200 doesn't do action well at all... It's horrible at it. It can't keep up with a fast moving target, and the refresh for dynamic focus is not great. So I get that. But still, there's things you have overlooked for sure.


----------



## hamlet (Jun 2, 2014)

PaulWog said:


> hamlet said:
> 
> 
> > . To get a great action shot it is really imperative that your camera releases the shutter when you press down completely. I just miss my shot completely because it just randomly decides when to fire off a shot, so i've hit a wall here with this camera.
> ...



Please, i have gone through all of the menu and tried a bunch of things. Even now as we speak, i am taking shots of my lens cap on my lens in manual mode and it doesn't respond always. There is like a 2 second delay.


----------



## robbins.photo (Jun 2, 2014)

PaulWog said:


> hamlet said:
> 
> 
> > . To get a great action shot it is really imperative that your camera releases the shutter when you press down completely. I just miss my shot completely because it just randomly decides when to fire off a shot, so i've hit a wall here with this camera.
> ...



That's odd - my experience with the D5200 is actually a bit different.   I use a D5200 and normally I'm using either AF-C with single focus point or AF-C with 9 point autofocus enabled, I prefer the 9 point for action shots and the single point for shots where the critter is more or less stationary but I will occasionally be using the single point if I didn't have time to change settings when an action shot presents itself.  I haven't really had too many issues getting action shots nor have I noticed what I would consider to be much of delay (usually well less than a second) between the time I press the half-shutter and the time the autofocus locks on, after that it will continue to fire at 3/5 FPS depending on whether or not I have it set on continuous low or high.  No real issues at all and I do actually own 2 x D5200's, they both work pretty much the same.

I'm wondering if perhaps part of the issue here might be one of available light - with slower aperture lenses it might be possible that the amount of light getting to the autofocus system wasn't sufficient and as a result the autofocus was taking longer to aquire.


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## astroNikon (Jun 2, 2014)

hamlet said:


> Please, i have gone through all of the menu and tried a bunch of things. Even now as we speak, i am taking shots of my lens cap on my lens in manual mode and it doesn't respond always. There is like a 2 second delay.



My cameras had an annoying delay like that until I turned all the helper features OFF .. I can't recall all of them but like
Noise Reduction
active d lighting
.. I'm drawing a blank now ....


----------



## robbins.photo (Jun 2, 2014)

astroNikon said:


> hamlet said:
> 
> 
> > Please, i have gone through all of the menu and tried a bunch of things. Even now as we speak, i am taking shots of my lens cap on my lens in manual mode and it doesn't respond always. There is like a 2 second delay.
> ...



True.. I shut off all of those features on my 5200's right after I took them out of the box - Having had an issue with the speed on my D5100 when I first got it, then doing some research and finding out what all I needed to shut off - boy the camera was a whole ton more responsive after that.  Long exposure NR and image preview I think were the two I made sure to shut off right away.


----------



## bigal1000 (Jun 2, 2014)

hamlet said:


> SCraig said:
> 
> 
> > You do, of course, realize that people have been taking photographs of action sports since long before autofocus even existed, right? You don't need another camera, you need to learn to use the one that you have.
> ...



That's why it called entry level ! You could also prefocus camera to where he will be and use a small f stop,it's not rocket science you  just need to learn some basics !


----------



## bigal1000 (Jun 2, 2014)

hamlet said:


> Thank you for your help gentlemen, i have sent my d3200 back for fixing and hopefully this problem will be sorted out when it gets back. In the meantime i will still look for an upgrade to the camera i've got right now.



Don't count on it I think it's just user error though I have been wrong before,sometimes the photographer as to do something themselves if you get my drift..........


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## SCraig (Jun 2, 2014)

hamlet said:


> That is right. To get a great action shot it is really imperative that your camera releases the shutter when you press down completely. I just miss my shot completely because it just randomly decides when to fire off a shot, so i've hit a wall here with this camera.


You've pretty much convinced yourself to get another camera, so go ahead.  Odds are it will have the same problem though.  Regardless, here's my advice if you are bound and determined to use autofocus as opposed to hyperfocus, and it's my last post in topic:

1.  Use AF-C mode ONLY.  AF-S mode will NOT work with moving subjects.

2.  Set the shutter release mode to CONTINUOUS.

3.  Turn ANY kind of dynamic 3D super-duper autofocus tracking mode OFF.  Use SINGLE-POINT autofocus and set it to the CENTER focus point.

4.  Keep the subject in the CENTER focus box

5.  Press and HOLD the shutter release and shoot a burst of shots each time.  You can delete the ones you don't want later.


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## Derrel (Jun 2, 2014)

hamlet said:
			
		

> There is like a 2 second delay.



You are not on 2-second self-timer delay mode are you?


----------



## hamlet (Jun 2, 2014)

astroNikon said:


> hamlet said:
> 
> 
> > Please, i have gone through all of the menu and tried a bunch of things. Even now as we speak, i am taking shots of my lens cap on my lens in manual mode and it doesn't respond always. There is like a 2 second delay.
> ...



My lens cap test on the lens seems to work a bit better now with less delay, i have turned off any and all remaining helpers. Tomorrow when i have sunlight, i will try again to see how well it fairs. There is a weird thing of where if i hold my camera at an angle of 15 degrees, the camera wont fire off for like 1 second.


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## PropilotBW (Jun 2, 2014)

.[/QUOTE]The red rectangular box is not on the target at all in viewnx.[/QUOTE]

The only time I've ever seen a "red rectangular box" is during Live-View shooting mode.   Are you using Live-View using the LCD to take your shots, versus looking through the viewfinder?


----------



## 480sparky (Jun 2, 2014)

astroNikon said:


> My cameras had an annoying delay like that until I turned all the helper features OFF .. I can't recall all of them but like
> Noise Reduction
> active d lighting
> .. I'm drawing a blank now ....




All that stuff does is slow down the buffer.  They have _nothing_ to do with focus & exposure.


----------



## Derrel (Jun 2, 2014)

There is a tool that can solve the problems you are experiencing. I would definitely give an adjustment a try.

stock photo of claw hammer - Google Search

;-)


----------



## 480sparky (Jun 2, 2014)

PropilotBW said:


> The only time I've ever seen a "red rectangular box" is during Live-View shooting mode.   Are you using Live-View using the LCD to take your shots, versus looking through the viewfinder?




Load an unedited image into View NX2 (that came with your camera, or can be downloaded from Nikon's website).  It allows you to display which focus points were used to obtain focus.  Very handy when trying to diagnose focus issues.


----------



## astroNikon (Jun 2, 2014)

480sparky said:


> astroNikon said:
> 
> 
> > My cameras had an annoying delay like that until I turned all the helper features OFF .. I can't recall all of them but like
> ...



okay
but I had a thread and emails to ppl about this because my d600 camera was not acting normal and was useless for action/ sports.  The entire release, shutter cycle was weird.  Then through emails I turned off those features and then my camera came to life like my  d7000 which I had not just those two, but a bunch of stuff turned off.

so .. Even though it had nothing to do with anything it had alot to do with everything
edited.... going thru my d7000

image review off
role played by 2nd card slot - overflow (raw shooting)
auto distortion control off
long exp NR off
high ISO NR (i keep to Norm but i don't really get to high ISOs, but was told to put OFF)
AF-C & S priority set to release (not focus required)
easy exposure compensation off
exposure delay mode off (read about this one)

i think that's everything turned off.  it made my d600 from a lame studio camera to an okay sports camera.
of course it may have been one or multiple ones above but that was basically the advice given to me and it worked wonders.


----------



## 480sparky (Jun 2, 2014)

astroNikon said:


> 480sparky said:
> 
> 
> > astroNikon said:
> ...




So, how does the camera perform NR and ADL _before_ the image is even taken?  Those are settings that need to be applied to image data.  If the image hasn't been taken yet, they can't do anything.......  including preventing the shutter from actuation.


----------



## hamlet (Jun 2, 2014)

SCraig said:


> hamlet said:
> 
> 
> > That is right. To get a great action shot it is really imperative that your camera releases the shutter when you press down completely. I just miss my shot completely because it just randomly decides when to fire off a shot, so i've hit a wall here with this camera.
> ...



Thanks SCraig, i hath done as you advised, but no improvements came. Something i learned though is that newer doesn't automatically mean better, you really skipped a land mine when you made the choice not to invest in the entry level dslr's such as the d3xxx. I would actually have preferred your much touted d90's focusing system, i don't know why nikon didn't stick with that?


----------



## astroNikon (Jun 2, 2014)

for example ... 

Nikon D7000 settings: Custom setting menu d Shooting/display / d11 Exposure delay mode » digital-photography.com - Digital photography and Nikon DSLR cameras. More focused.

*d11 Exposure Delay Mode*







*Explanation:* Exposure delay mode means that when the  internal mirror has been raised the actual exposure will be done with a  delay of about one second. 
 This prevents shaking of the camera body because of the mirror  movement during the exposure. It is the same principle as the release  mode Mup.


----------



## SCraig (Jun 2, 2014)

hamlet said:


> Thanks SCraig, i hath done as you advised, but no improvements came. Something i learned though is that newer doesn't automatically mean better, you really skipped a land mine when you made the choice not to invest in the entry level dslr's such as the d3xxx. I would actually have preferred your much touted d90's focusing system, i don't know why nikon didn't stick with that?


No, I didn't skip a land mine.  See post #45.  I have a D60 which was the predecessor to the D3xxx series and is actually LESS capable.

The D90 is a couple of steps above the early D3xxx series and the early D5xxx series.  According to This Nikon Site it is slotted between the D7000 and D5300.


----------



## manaheim (Jun 2, 2014)

Mirror flap reduction mechanisms are extreme and really only necessary in a very small percentage of situations.


----------



## astroNikon (Jun 2, 2014)

I'm not an expert at it, but the more the camera has to use the processor for corrections to the image, the longer it theoretically would take in the overall cycle of image capture to storage.  Thus the slower overall.

All I know is my cameras are much faster after I turned off all the helper features.  YMMV and all that.


----------



## hamlet (Jun 2, 2014)

SCraig said:


> hamlet said:
> 
> 
> > Thanks SCraig, i hath done as you advised, but no improvements came. Something i learned though is that newer doesn't automatically mean better, you really skipped a land mine when you made the choice not to invest in the entry level dslr's such as the d3xxx. I would actually have preferred your much touted d90's focusing system, i don't know why nikon didn't stick with that?
> ...



So how do you explain the shutter lock of the d3xxx if the d3xxx series is indeed better at af? I'm missing all the good shots. My grass doesn't look greener from where i'm standing.


----------



## 480sparky (Jun 2, 2014)

Yes, turning all those things on will slow the buffer down... but that will only prevent the shutter from firing _once the buffer fills up_.  They cannot prevent the shutter from firing the first time around.


----------



## SCraig (Jun 2, 2014)

hamlet said:


> So how do you explain the shutter lock of the d3xxx if the d3xxx series is indeed better at af? I'm missing all the good shots. My grass doesn't look greener from where i'm standing.



You're missing the point.  I don't normally USE autofocus in situations like that.  Using hyperfocus eliminates the need for autofocus entirely.  If that is what is causing your delay it will eliminate it entirely because autofocus is turned off.


----------



## hamlet (Jun 2, 2014)

SCraig said:


> hamlet said:
> 
> 
> > So how do you explain the shutter lock of the d3xxx if the d3xxx series is indeed better at af? I'm missing all the good shots. My grass doesn't look greener from where i'm standing.
> ...



It wouldn't in my case because the shutter problem still persists. half the time it listens on manual mode and the other half it doesn't.


----------



## SCraig (Jun 2, 2014)

hamlet said:


> It wouldn't in my case because the shutter problem still persists. half the time it listens on manual mode and the other half it doesn't.



If turning autofocus OFF (I don't think the D3200 has a switch on the body but there should be one on the lens) doesn't solve the hesitation problems then it's not an autofocus problem.  Something else is causing it.  Does it by chance happen worse when you shoot several images in quick sequence?  If so you are filling the buffer and a faster memory card might help.


----------



## robbins.photo (Jun 2, 2014)

astroNikon said:


> I'm not an expert at it, but the more the camera has to use the processor for corrections to the image, the longer it theoretically would take in the overall cycle of image capture to storage.  Thus the slower overall.
> 
> All I know is my cameras are much faster after I turned off all the helper features.  YMMV and all that.



Well think the original respondent may have missed the point that on the first shot they wouldn't matter but on additional shots in the burst they do

Sent from my LG-LG730 using Tapatalk


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## bribrius (Jun 2, 2014)

it is to dark for it to focus and leave it on cont afc

2000 shutter seems a tad high to me for a skate boarder long focal length that cant be going well in most lighting in the mid f's
noise hard I would think on a 3200

camera might be wondering what you are trying to do



I push shutter, detect delay, first thought "crap I need to change the settings"



My cameras pause too. Everytime I have the settings wrong and they cant focus


I can take a photo of a skateboarder with a point and shoot with shutter adjustment. it just cant be the camera.


----------



## hamlet (Jun 3, 2014)

SCraig said:


> hamlet said:
> 
> 
> > It wouldn't in my case because the shutter problem still persists. half the time it listens on manual mode and the other half it doesn't.
> ...



Once or several times, it doesn't make a difference. The camera sometimes responds immediately and other times it shoots later but at random intervals and not in a quick succession like it normally does for when i'm shooting portraits or stills.


----------



## The_Traveler (Jun 3, 2014)

It seems that the mechanical faults which screw up shooter's ability to get great shots occur, not randomly as expected, but much more frequently to those who are relatively inexperienced.


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## PaulWog (Jun 4, 2014)

Hamlet, I took at look at my D5200 closely today and here's what you need to do (two things):

1) Turn on your camera and press the "MENU" button located to the left of your viewfinder. There should be six tabs to the left that appear on your screen. Select the one that shows a small sharpened pencil. It is the "CUSTOM SETTING MENU". Once in the "CUSTOM SETTING MENU", select the "a Autofocus" tab. You will now be in the "a Autofocus" menu. At the very top of that menu, there is an option titled "AF-C priority selection". Click on that. You should have it set to "Release" instead of "Focus".

Once you have done that, step 2:

2) Get out of all the menu stuff, go back to your regular shooting menu (the one where you can alter ISO, white balance, bracketing, exposure, all of that...). Press the "i" button to the right of your viewfinder. Now select your focus mode (this should be the second to left selection on the bottom row). There will be four focus modes: AF-A, AF-S, AF-C, and MF. Change the focus mode to "AF-C". 

While you're at it, hopefully you have optimized your D3200. I have mine set up so I don't have to look at my LCD screen to change my ISO, shutter speed, or aperture. If I hold the "fn" button and scroll the dial, I can increase/decrease ISO. If I hold the +/- button and scroll, that changes my shutter speed. If I scroll without holding any button, that's my aperture. The reason I bring this up is that a lot (and I mean A LOT) of reviews have mislead people into either not purchasing the D3XXX and D5XXX cameras based on this one thing. The reviewers don't spend any time with the cameras they review, and they spew misinformation out like mad. What has been said in many reviews for these lines of cameras is "you have to access your LCD screen to change any settings, you only get a few controls and it's not enough". That's not true, you just need to use the buttons accordingly, and it just takes a few minutes to set up through the menu settings. Having things set up properly that way will also help a ton with fast on-the-go shots.

Once you have done these two things that I numbered off, you can snap shots any time you like without having to wait for the camera to confirm things are in focus.


----------



## astroNikon (Jun 4, 2014)

hamlet said:


> Once or several times, it doesn't make a difference. The camera sometimes responds immediately and other times it shoots later but at random intervals and not in a quick succession like it normally does for when i'm shooting portraits or stills.



Let me guess .. you do Continuous High fps shooting on portraits and stills ?


----------



## hamlet (Jun 4, 2014)

PaulWog said:


> Hamlet, I took at look at my D5200 closely today and here's what you need to do (two things):
> 
> 1) Turn on your camera and press the "MENU" button located to the left of your viewfinder. There should be six tabs to the left that appear on your screen. Select the one that shows a small sharpened pencil. It is the "CUSTOM SETTING MENU". Once in the "CUSTOM SETTING MENU", select the "a Autofocus" tab. You will now be in the "a Autofocus" menu. At the very top of that menu, there is an option titled "AF-C priority selection". Click on that. You should have it set to "Release" instead of "Focus".
> 
> ...



Thank you for taking the time to go through it. Step 1 is sadly not applicable to my camera. I have done step 2.


----------



## hamlet (Jun 4, 2014)

astroNikon said:


> hamlet said:
> 
> 
> > Once or several times, it doesn't make a difference. The camera sometimes responds immediately and other times it shoots later but at random intervals and not in a quick succession like it normally does for when i'm shooting portraits or stills.
> ...



Sometimes, sure. But that is not what i was talking about in this specific instance. I'd like to not worry about this camera anymore and go through autofocus and how good it is from the d800 downwards?


----------



## 480sparky (Jun 4, 2014)

PaulWog said:


> ..... You should have it set to "Release" instead of "Focus".......



How does setting up the camera to fire even if focus confirmation is not obtained make the image in focus?


----------



## manaheim (Jun 4, 2014)

480sparky said:


> PaulWog said:
> 
> 
> > ..... You should have it set to "Release" instead of "Focus".......
> ...



I was wondering the same thing.

Though, I admit I'm not sure I understand the setting he was describing.

Anyway... this big long thread all boils down to something very simple. You don't need a particular camera to focus well, though certainly some cameras do have better focusing mechanisms than others, even my ancient D100 worked great. So anything newer has got to be at least usable.

Therefore, the possible problems are:

3. Something wrong with the camera.
2. Something wrong with the lens.
*1. Something wrong with the methods.*


----------



## astroNikon (Jun 4, 2014)

manaheim said:


> 480sparky said:
> 
> 
> > PaulWog said:
> ...



I went through the manual, and I also couldn't find squat about any advanced focusing system such as in the d7000 and above.
The d5x00 is "okay"
but the d3x00 seems to be stripped and is a slightly advanced P&S camera in regards to focusing controls.
FWIW ... but I only quickly breezed through the manual


----------



## hamlet (Jun 4, 2014)

manaheim said:


> 480sparky said:
> 
> 
> > PaulWog said:
> ...



I have changed lenses, looked into the camera and its settings and change memory card, used different methods and none of it works. It is as my conlussion bore out a couple of pages back: this camera is not broken, it is the way nikon made it and only an upgrade to a higher model will give me what i need. Right now i'm looking at the d7100 or d610, but the d800 also seems like a nice candidate because i would like to make small little movies of opera plays.


----------



## PaulWog (Jun 4, 2014)

480sparky said:


> PaulWog said:
> 
> 
> > ..... You should have it set to "Release" instead of "Focus".......
> ...



What a loaded, condescending question that one is. The first issue is that Hamlet cannot get his shutter to release at all. He wanted to know how to get it to activate on his command, and not wait for focus confirmation. I realize that the main issue may be hand-holding techniques, and the need for an improvement in technique in order to hold focus on the subject (or something along those lines). I also realize that this may simply result in the next problem of: "It takes photos, but they're never in focus." Nevertheless, info is info, and it's a good feature to know about (aside from the fact that I discovered that the D3200 likely does not have this feature). If your question isn't rhetorical, however, then it answers itself, and I don't know why you asked it.

When shooting continuous, there's two ways you can have the camera set up: To only allow the shutter to activate when focus is confirmed, or to allow the shutter to activate immediately on command.

So let's say I'm taking shots of a skateboarder and I have my camera set up to automatically adjust focus on my target. If there's a moment in time that I want to get multiple shots, and I have it set up to only snap a shot when the camera has confirmed it's in focus, it might only take 2 shots in a given period that it could've taken 6 shots. Under some circumstances, it simply won't take shots at all since it will continue to attempt to achieve focus (even with dynamic mode set up which should account for this, but doesn't necessarily).

There's a lot of focus hunting, refocusing when refocusing isn't needed, etc, that goes on with the focus system on these (the D5XXX/D3XXX cameras). 

With the case of the D3200, it seems like there might actually be the big issue of not being able to have the camera snap the shot on command (as in, if the camera never thinks it's in focus, then you have to go manual mode). I looked through the D3200 manual, and it doesn't have what I described (the option to take the photo upon command regardless of whether focus confirmation has occurred). Since focus is initiated by depressing the shutter button halfway, if you can set up the camera to take the shot on command rather than wait for the camera's confirmation, one can attempt to achieve focus and then snap the shot whenever they feel it's necessary. It comes down to intuition, experience, and getting a feel for the camera's limitations. It may be that the D3200 can't even do this.


----------



## manaheim (Jun 4, 2014)

hamlet, just because you feel you have changed methods, does not mean that it is not your methods.

When I used to be a shooter (with guns, mind you) I was very good. A friend of mine was having problems and I explained a few things that he was doing wrong that would affect his shooting. He tried to apply these, and I saw some improvements, but not nearly enough. He was still doing those things wrong, just not AS MUCH. He then turned to me, claimed he was doing everything right, and it still wasn't working.

Same goes for golf, music, and any number of things.

If you don't know how to do it, assuming you can just make a change at the drop of a hat without practice is pretty silly.


----------



## PaulWog (Jun 4, 2014)

manaheim said:


> hamlet, just because you feel you have changed methods, does not mean that it is not your methods.
> 
> When I used to be a shooter (with guns, mind you) I was very good. A friend of mine was having problems and I explained a few things that he was doing wrong that would affect his shooting. He tried to apply these, and I saw some improvements, but not nearly enough. He was still doing those things wrong, just not AS MUCH. He then turned to me, claimed he was doing everything right, and it still wasn't working.
> 
> ...



I'm looking into a few details, but check over some of the info in my post above (#103). It seems like the D3200 is indeed stripped of the option which the D5200 has (which is basically camera focus-confirmation override). I think that all D3200 models may actually have to confirm focus in order for the shutter to release. This would mean that the user cannot take a photo if the camera does not think it is in focus (any hunting scenarios), aside from going into manual mode.

I'll go out tomorrow and do some tests with my D5200, which should basically have the same focus system as the D3200 (aside from some slightly different menu options, after my careful comparison of the manuals). I'll see if I have similar issues taking photos of my dog running around (or something like that) in a test scenario, with my shutter settings set to "Focus" instead of "Release". If what I've said above is basically all checking out as true, the D3200 is stuck in "Focus" mode for the shutter button, so that's the mode I'll test out.

The only thing that seems really odd to me is that the 70-200 VR II is among the fastest focusing lenses out there. I would think that even if the camera has to confirm that it is in focus, if it's set up with the proper dynamic focus points, in AF-C mode, that it should be firing off shots. So, (Hamlet if you're reading this), maybe double-check your focus point setup and your focus mode setup. If you're not locking your camera on to your target, it could be repeatedly attempting to focus on the foreground, background, and subject, not knowing where you want it. If you've set anything up incorrectly at all, that's a big issue. Even if you've set things up correctly, however, if your hand-holding technique and the way you follow your subject is horrendous, then you're going to have your camera constantly hunting for focus. With that all said, yet again, I come back to thinking that the camera should focus quickly enough to take a shot, and your issue (with bad technique) should at least lead you to the camera focusing on the wrong target (rather than no shutter action at all).


----------



## hamlet (Jun 4, 2014)

manaheim said:


> hamlet, just because you feel you have changed methods, does not mean that it is not your methods.
> 
> When I used to be a shooter (with guns, mind you) I was very good. A friend of mine was having problems and I explained a few things that he was doing wrong that would affect his shooting. He tried to apply these, and I saw some improvements, but not nearly enough. He was still doing those things wrong, just not AS MUCH. He then turned to me, claimed he was doing everything right, and it still wasn't working.
> 
> ...



You assume too much. Sometimes asking a den of enthusiasts and professionals can be the worst place to get advice, i'll ask the man down the road with only a technical understanding of how things work.


----------



## PaulWog (Jun 4, 2014)

hamlet said:


> You assume too much. Sometimes asking a den of enthusiasts and professionals can be the worst place to get advice, i'll ask the man down the road with only a technical understanding of how things work.



I honestly think the best thing you can do is take your D3200 to a dealer (or someone who knows Nikon cameras, a professional, or whoever who might have the time to look it over), and explain your problem. See if they find the same problem, and get their input on what they think it is. If they can use your setup just fine, then they will likely be able to give you input on what you might be doing wrong.

The problem is that the forum has hit its limitation at this point in terms of communication. I don't think we'll be able to go through all the possibilities on the forum in order to give you the advice (or diagnosis for your camera) that you are in need of. Getting someone to physically handle what you've got who knows what they're doing will definitely get you somewhere.


----------



## hamlet (Jun 4, 2014)

PaulWog said:


> hamlet said:
> 
> 
> > You assume too much. Sometimes asking a den of enthusiasts and professionals can be the worst place to get advice, i'll ask the man down the road with only a technical understanding of how things work.
> ...



I'll tell you what i told them all. The camera has a second or two delay from the moment i push the shutter button to the moment the camera takes a picture on manual focus. Sometimes the camera takes a picture simultaneously when i push the shutter button, other times it won't and all of this is on manual focus where the camera doesn't even need to focus. I don't know how else to explain or to solve it other than getting a new camera, because i've done everything people have asked and there are no improvements.


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## hamlet (Jun 4, 2014)

I recently updated this camera to the latest firmware, lets see if putting the thing back to factory settings can solve it.


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## lambertpix (Jun 4, 2014)

hamlet said:


> PaulWog said:
> 
> 
> > hamlet said:
> ...



I think that what Paul might be trying to say is that someone with experience handling lots of cameras (including other D3200's) should very quickly be able to pick up your camera and tell you, "yeah, that's about all you can expect from a D3200", or (more likely), "this ain't right at all".  The camera's responsiveness is a huge part of its ergonomics, but it's a very tactile experience, so it's much, much harder for a bunch of forum users to diagnose something like this remotely vs. someone who could pick up the camera and feel its responsiveness.  Someone who's worked with a D3200 could probably tell you instantly whether it's behaving like other D3200's.


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## hamlet (Jun 4, 2014)

There are no dedicated professional camera stores in my town. We mostly have general electronics stores where the shopkeeps knowledge only goes so far as to tell the difference between video and photograph cameras.


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## robbins.photo (Jun 4, 2014)

https://www.inkling.com/read/dummies-nikon-d3200-julie-king-1st/chapter-2/choosing-the-release-mode

The section on Self-timer shooting might prove helpful.


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