# Really stupid question/observation.



## jjd228 (Apr 11, 2014)

I see a lot of people shooting in manual just so they can say "hey look at how cool I am, I shoot in manual!" Kinda like people that struggle with Linux just so they can say they don't use Windows 

But I do have a real question about this. If you're going to shoot in manual and tweak your settings to get your on-camera light meter right in the middle at the "standard exposure" mark, then why shoot in manual? Am I missing something? I'd really like to understand why people do it. If your goal is to get a standard exposure then why not shoot in one of the other modes?


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## SCraig (Apr 11, 2014)

You have just discovered the difference between shooting manual because it sounds good and knowing when and why to shoot in manual because it makes a difference.  As you said, there are many who shoot in manual mode as a status symbol.  There are far fewer who understand the reasoning to do so.

Personally I don't shoot in manual all that much, but when I do it is specifically to override what the camera meter wants to do.  Situations such as shooting with a large expanse of neutral background will always cause exposure problems.  These are perfect situations for using manual, but if one is going to simply set the camera to what the meter recommends then, as you said, there is no point in it.


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## IronMaskDuval (Apr 11, 2014)

jjd228 said:


> I see a lot of people shooting in manual just so they can say "hey look at how cool I am, I shoot in manual!" Kinda like people that struggle with Linux just so they can say they don't use Windows   But I do have a real question about this. If you're going to shoot in manual and tweak your settings to get your on-camera light meter right in the middle at the "standard exposure" mark, then why shoot in manual? Am I missing something? I'd really like to understand why people do it. If your goal is to get a standard exposure then why not shoot in one of the other modes?



The meter is just a guide. I don't even use it.  In m mode you can better control your background light vs fore. There are some other things, but I take a pic and adjust to how I want it and not how my camera tells me how it should be. I took a few shots based on what the meter told me to shoot it at yesterday, and I wasn't too happy with the results-- so meh to the meter


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## sm4him (Apr 11, 2014)

I shoot in manual because it gives me full control.
I do NOT use Linux because I don't like it. 

In answer to your question: Let's say I'm taking pictures of a flower garden. I set it on auto and the camera decides there's not much light so it sets a really low shutter speed, a aperture of f/8 and a low ISO.
But I don't care so much about the low ISO. I care more about not getting any blur from movement and getting the background blurred out more. So, in manual, I'm going to set a HIGHER shutter speed, open the aperture up more, and then set the ISO to where the exposure is right. 
The difference is that *I* control which settings to change to achieve proper exposure.


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## Braineack (Apr 11, 2014)

I shoot in M to look cool.  I actually run down the streets screaming: Look at me everybody!!!! I'm in M mode! Do you even know what that means?!


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## Dmariehill (Apr 11, 2014)

For me, my camera in auto doesn't take nearly as good of pictures as my previous pos did.  I moved to manual to learn more about my camera, to learn how to control the different settings.  It actually helps me understand the concepts better when I can take a picture, change the apeture, take the same pic again and repeat.  The terms and the lingo start to make more sense to me.  So, it was an accomplishment to move to manual mode but my reason for shooting that way is that I get better pictures.   I use some of the camera's other modes too, depending on what I'm trying to accomplish but I've figured out how to quickly change white balance, shutter speed, apeture and exposure.  That makes it so much easier to get the shot I want.   If you're just setting the camera to what the auto setttings were anyway, then it wouldn't make sense.  But I don't often match those settings.


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## Dao (Apr 11, 2014)

If I can get a properly exposed photo without using manual mode, I will choose the semi-auto mode (especially Av mode).  And most of the time, I still have all the control with semi-auto mode.   However, if it is in a controlled environment either with artificial light(s) or constant ambient light, I'd rather choose manual since it is faster and the result is more consistent.

And I do noticed in the past there are photographers shoot in manual and all they did was "Dial to Zero".  That is just waste of time in my opinion.  

As for the in-camera light meter, I do use it quite a bit.  Spot meter with exposure lock and knowing where to point for locking the exposure works well for me.  Of course, I sometimes also use exposure compensation (+ or -).


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## Civchic (Apr 11, 2014)

I use Av and Tv mode most of the time, depending on what I'm going for.  But when I'm shooting birds (especially in flight) I use manual so that I can get a proper exposure on the bird and/or a nice background blur.  I was finding that shooting birds in Tv on a bright day, my backgrounds were all cluttery because the camera was picking the smallest aperture possible.  I'd rather overexpose a bit and get a soft background and more highlights in the feathers.


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## tirediron (Apr 11, 2014)

I shoot in manual WHEN I need to because I want or need control.  I shoot in AP/SP/Prgm when it's appropriate.  I use Linux because I have a thing for penguins!


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## Big Mike (Apr 11, 2014)

I teach a photography class called 'Using your DSLR' but it's really mostly about teaching the students how to shoot in manual mode.  

Here is the main reasoning that I give the students as to why I think manual mode is better...

Firstly, after teaching them how to use manual mode and 'getting to zero', I teach them why getting to zero is not usually the correct exposure (reflected light meter etc.)  I then teach them how to determine how to get a more accurate exposure via metering and often adjusting away from zero (or using a grey card etc.).  
The key point that I try to impress upon them, is that we are using our metering techniques to work backward, to figure out the correct settings for the (incident) light that is hitting the scene, not the light that is reflecting off of it.  So once they have the correct settings for a scene, being in manual mode locks that exposure into the camera and ensures that you will get a proper exposure (as long as your lighting doesn't change).  So essentially, once they have determined the exposure value that they want to use, they can forget about exposure and concentrate on other things like focus, composition, interacting with their subject etc.  

The next day of class (usually a week later), I teach them how to use aperture and shutter speed priority modes.  Those modes, on their own, basically do the job of getting you to zero, which they now know is not all that useful, so then I teach them how to use exposure compensation.  

But then I point out the main difference in how we would shoot in manual, vs how we would shoot in an priority (automatic) mode.  
In manual, you might find a surface or object to meter off of, I use the example of snow, which is typically 1 2/3 or 2 stops brighter than middle grey.  So you would meter on the snow, dial the exposure to 2 stops above zero.  By doing that they have figured out proper exposure for the light that they are shooting with.  So now they can shooting anything that might be in that light, a black dog, a person in a white coat, a purple-people-eater etc.  They don't have to worry about exposure, because it was locked in correct for the light.

Now to compare that to how you would shoot in automatic.  You meter on the snow and dial in +2 EC...but when you then point the camera at your black dog and press the shutter release button, the camera will re-meter, this time including the black dog...and thus your +2 EC will likely give you incorrect settings.  The way to do this, of course, is to use AEL (auto exposure lock).  You meter on the snow, lock the exposure, then shoot the black dog.  

In in manual, you meter once, then don't need to think about exposure (unless the light changes).
In auto, you need to meter and lock the exposure before you take the shot...and every time you release the AEL button, you'll need to re-meter and re-lock, which means you're constantly thinking about exposure.  So in that sense, the automatic modes are _more_ work than manual mode.  

But, I do also tell them that when you have a couple of criteria met, then it's a good idea to use an automatic mode.  Those criteria are 'time constraint' and 'uneven lighting conditions'.  So if you are shooting in a scenario where your lighting will be different from shot to shot, and at the same time, you don't have the couple seconds it takes to adjust the settings in manual.....then it's a good idea to use the automatic modes.  Of course, you still need to use EC, but that is likely quicker than adjusting 6 stops of exposure in manual mode.

At the end of the day, it doesn't really matter what mode you shoot in.  A shot taken at ISO 400, 1/125 and F8 will be exactly the same in any exposure mode.


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## Big Mike (Apr 11, 2014)

tirediron said:


> I shoot in manual WHEN I need to because I want or need control.  I shoot in AP/SP/Prgm when it's appropriate.  I use Linux because I have a thing for penguins!


Somewhere, Anti's ears are burning.


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## tirediron (Apr 11, 2014)

Big Mike said:


> tirediron said:
> 
> 
> > I shoot in manual WHEN I need to because I want or need control. I shoot in AP/SP/Prgm when it's appropriate. I use Linux because I have a thing for penguins!
> ...



:blushing:


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## lambertpix (Apr 11, 2014)

I shoot in Av or Tv most of the time, frequently with EC if I want to nudge metering one way or the other.  If I want everything to stop changing unless I change it, I use M.  Ex: shooting a bunch of shots to be stitched into a panorama -- I specifically _do not_ want the exposure to change from one shot to the next, so I'll use M.


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## kathyt (Apr 11, 2014)

All my t-shirts have an M on them. I do get a lot of male attention from them.


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## Solarflare (Apr 11, 2014)

Linux is actually more comfortable to use than Windows. Except for those stupid programmers who make Linux work like Windows, but thats another issue.

Main reason I use Windows is because my programs run under it, not because its more comfortable.

The only camera that sees manual a lot is my compact (Ricoh GR Digital IV) because its metering is basically useless. One of the reasons I'm not happy at all with that camera.

My D600 sees a lot of aperture priority. Sometimes I meter by hand, but its rare. Of course in special circumstances shutter priority is chosen.


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## paigew (Apr 11, 2014)

I shoot in Manual 100% of the time. I need to control everything. I don't like the camera changing things up on me  Probably why I use CWB too...control freak.


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## slackercruster (Apr 11, 2014)

jjd228 said:


> I see a lot of people shooting in manual just so they can say "hey look at how cool I am, I shoot in manual!" Kinda like people that struggle with Linux just so they can say they don't use Windows
> 
> But I do have a real question about this. If you're going to shoot in manual and tweak your settings to get your on-camera light meter right in the middle at the "standard exposure" mark, then why shoot in manual? Am I missing something? I'd really like to understand why people do it. If your goal is to get a standard exposure then why not shoot in one of the other modes?




I shoot a lot of manual cause that was how I was brought up in 1970's. My second choice after manual is 'A' setting for shutter speed and manual f stop. But on a Leica it is hard to adjust the +/- comp in a fraction of a second. My Fuji is much easier with the exp comp so I use 'A' more with Fuji. 

Never gave a thought to 'look how cool I am shooting manual.' That is BS. Either you produce great work or not. Great work makes yoyu cool not shooting manual and shooting crap. 

I hate the cameras they make nowadays with all the auto settings that take a long time to adjust. I prefer the old school controls and manual focus lenses for a lot of my work.


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## slackercruster (Apr 11, 2014)

Civchic said:


> I use Av and Tv mode most of the time, depending on what I'm going for. But when I'm shooting birds (especially in flight) I use manual so that I can get a proper exposure on the bird and/or a nice background blur. I was finding that shooting birds in Tv on a bright day, my backgrounds were all cluttery because the camera was picking the smallest aperture possible. I'd rather overexpose a bit and get a soft background and more highlights in the feathers.



_*Av and Tv *_

I can never remember what these setting even mean. Shutter speed, aperture and manual focus...that is it for me.


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## Derrel (Apr 11, 2014)

jjd228 said:


> I see a lot of people shooting in manual just so they can say "hey look at how cool I am, I shoot in manual!" _Kinda like people that struggle with Linux just so they can say they don't use Windows _
> 
> But I do have a real question about this. _If you're going to shoot in manual and tweak your settings to get your on-camera light meter right in the middle at the "standard exposure" mark, then why shoot in manual?_ Am I missing something? I'd really like to understand why people do it. If your goal is to get a standard exposure then why not shoot in one of the other modes?



Pretty good insights!!!


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## Derrel (Apr 11, 2014)

Braineack said:


> I shoot in M to look cool.  I actually run down the streets screaming: Look at me everybody!!!! I'm in M mode! Do you even know what that means?!



I still have half of a crate of, "I shoot in M mode!" T-shirts...plenty of mediums left...you're a medium, right, B??? I'll send you one. Black, with yellow lettering (aka Nikon) or white with red text (aka Canon shooter shirt)--I have both.


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## imagemaker46 (Apr 11, 2014)

Like lots of others on here, they grew up using light meters and having to set everything, no auto. I still use manual all the time, it does give me full control of what I'm doing. I don't think I've ever had anyone look over my shoulder to see if I was shooting manual. I have other photographers ask what I'm shooting at, a lot of the time what we are using for exposures are completely different, but they may be using highlights, looking for more shadow, doesn't matter.

I never really thought of shooting in manual as a way of looking cool, it's just a function on a camera. If that's what someone needs to appear cool, they have some issues beyond the camera.


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## paigew (Apr 11, 2014)

Derrel said:


> jjd228 said:
> 
> 
> > I see a lot of people shooting in manual just so they can say "hey look at how cool I am, I shoot in manual!" _Kinda like people that struggle with Linux just so they can say they don't use Windows _
> ...


Why use exposure compensation when you could just set your settings right in the first place? Am _I_ missing something??


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## Braineack (Apr 11, 2014)

Derrel said:


> Braineack said:
> 
> 
> > I shoot in M to look cool.  I actually run down the streets screaming: Look at me everybody!!!! I'm in M mode! Do you even know what that means?!
> ...



A Large.  But I'd, seriously, take any and wear it always.

If people asked why my shirt was so tight, I'd just say cause it was an M.


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## timor (Apr 11, 2014)

jjd228 said:


> I see a lot of people shooting in manual just so they can say "hey look at how cool I am, I shoot in manual!" Kinda like people that struggle with Linux just so they can say they don't use Windows
> 
> But I do have a real question about this. If you're going to shoot in manual and tweak your settings to get your on-camera light meter right in the middle at the "standard exposure" mark, then why shoot in manual? Am I missing something? I'd really like to understand why people do it. If your goal is to get a standard exposure then why not shoot in one of the other modes?


Why do you call it "a stupid question" ? Just avoid people, who are showing off that they are shooting in M mode and stick with those who do, but don't speak about it. There is a good chance, they know, what they are doing.


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## Braineack (Apr 11, 2014)

Braineack said:


> If people asked why my shirt was so tight, I'd just say cause it was an M.



I hope everyone appreciates how clever this was...


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## Civchic (Apr 11, 2014)

imagemaker46 said:


> I never really thought of shooting in manual as a way of looking cool, it's just a function on a camera. If that's what someone needs to appear cool, they have some issues beyond the camera.



That's cuz you're an actual pro.  But in the amateur group there's a lot of "I shoot ONLY in manual, if you don't you're no better than a point and shoot" blahdeblah snobbery.  Meanwhile they can't compose a shot.

Slackercruster, my apologies for the Canon lingo.  You say shutter, aperture, manual, I said Tv Av M, same deal.


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## Civchic (Apr 11, 2014)

Braineack said:


> Braineack said:
> 
> 
> > If people asked why my shirt was so tight, I'd just say cause it was an M.
> ...



I laughed.


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## IronMaskDuval (Apr 11, 2014)

I'm Asian, and I have a camera. There is no mode that I can shoot in that'll make me look cool.









paigew said:


> Derrel said:
> 
> 
> > jjd228 said:
> ...



Exposure compensation only gives me a minor bump. I guess it's an in-betweener?...


Nope. Not even in a Shaolin fighting stance....


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## Overread (Apr 11, 2014)

Based upon user feedback in this thread we'll be introducing a new feature to appear on user profiles - users will now be able to show off on their profile that they shoot in M mode! We'll also be introducing one for users who only shoot in A mode as well (those in between will just be left out).



In addition to the sane points raised remember that the camera meter can only read ambient light; it has no way to read light added by a flash or studio strobe. So if those are being used where they are forming a primary component to the light you have to shift into manual mode to get the settings you want, because the camera will simply not have a clue. 
Note that you can use the camera meter when the flash is just there for fill lighting (bumping up the exposure on shadowed areas and thus a minor light source); its just when the flash light is a major contributing light source or the only light source contributing to the exposure, that you need to use manual mode.


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## gsgary (Apr 11, 2014)

I shoot in M, Leica M, no light meter, no aperture priority, no shutter priority


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## robbins.photo (Apr 11, 2014)

Overread said:


> Based upon user feedback in this thread we'll be introducing a new feature to appear on user profiles - users will now be able to show off on their profile that they shoot in M mode! We'll also be introducing one for users who only shoot in A mode as well (those in between will just be left out).
> 
> 
> 
> ...



So I guess us S/Tv mode guys can just go pound sand then?  Lol


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## robbins.photo (Apr 11, 2014)

I think the choice for using M mode depends a lot on the shooter, the camera and the shooting situation.  I don't find M mode to be very useful for me personally but then again the vast majority of my shooting situations can often require that I have the camera ready to fire with really no more prep time than the time it takes me to grab it and fire.  The other consideration for me at least is that my camera, the D5200, only has one command dial - so shooting in stricly manual mode is a bit clunky as a result.  I've got to press and hold a button and spin the dial to get one setting, then do the same for another - etc.

So as a result I've found that at least for my shooting style, my camera setup and the types of situations I'm shooting in most often S (Shutter Priority Mode) works best for me overall.  If I had a different camera body, or had more time to prep before actually taking a lot of my shots, well then I might use manual mode a lot more.


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## Braineack (Apr 11, 2014)

dual wheels makes manual ezpz.


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## runnah (Apr 11, 2014)

Anytime I am around other photographers I casually position my camera so they can see my dial in the M position. When they notice, I give them a wink and a nod, then gently cup their buttocks.


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## lambertpix (Apr 11, 2014)

Overread said:


> In addition to the sane points raised remember that the camera meter can only read ambient light; it has no way to read light added by a flash or studio strobe. So if those are being used where they are forming a primary component to the light you have to shift into manual mode to get the settings you want, because the camera will simply not have a clue.



Is that also true for eTTL / iTTL?  I know the camera can't read the flash (pre-flash notwithstanding), but it seems to do a fair job of predicting how much the flash is going to contribute to the exposure.  It's not unusual for me to have to adjust a bit, but I sure noticed a difference switching from manual flash control to eTTL.


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## IronMaskDuval (Apr 11, 2014)

runnah said:


> Anytime I am around other photographers I casually position my camera so they can see my dial in the M position. When they notice, I give them a wink and a nod, then gently cup their buttocks.



That was you last week.


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## robbins.photo (Apr 11, 2014)

lambertpix said:


> Overread said:
> 
> 
> > In addition to the sane points raised remember that the camera meter can only read ambient light; it has no way to read light added by a flash or studio strobe. So if those are being used where they are forming a primary component to the light you have to shift into manual mode to get the settings you want, because the camera will simply not have a clue.
> ...



The real question of course being can you do the Shaolin fighting stance?


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## robbins.photo (Apr 11, 2014)

runnah said:


> Anytime I am around other photographers I casually position my camera so they can see my dial in the M position. When they notice, I give them a wink and a nod, then gently cup their buttocks.



Which still only accounts for a little less than half of the restraining orders, strangely enough.. lol.


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## lambertpix (Apr 11, 2014)

robbins.photo said:


> lambertpix said:
> 
> 
> > Overread said:
> ...



Not in these pants.


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## IronMaskDuval (Apr 11, 2014)

Rookies


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## batmura (Apr 11, 2014)

Big Mike said:


> I teach a photography class called 'Using your DSLR' but it's really mostly about teaching the students how to shoot in manual mode.
> 
> Here is the main reasoning that I give the students as to why I think manual mode is better...
> 
> ...


I wish someone had written this post when I first started out about 2 and a half years ago. Awesomeness!


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## nzmacro (Apr 11, 2014)

jjd228 said:


> I see a lot of people shooting in manual just so they can say "hey look at how cool I am, I shoot in manual!" Kinda like people that struggle with Linux just so they can say they don't use Windows
> 
> But I do have a real question about this. If you're going to shoot in manual and tweak your settings to get your on-camera light meter right in the middle at the "standard exposure" mark, then why shoot in manual? Am I missing something? I'd really like to understand why people do it. If your goal is to get a standard exposure then why not shoot in one of the other modes?



Different people, different reasons, subjects and gear. 

I use an EVF and know my system inside and out. Exposure is something I have no issue with using an EVF and it lets me see basically what I will get exposure wise. I use only manual focus lenses so nothing goes into auto, I lock ISO and shutter speed while the lenses are all used wide open. How much more simple can it get. If I'm doing it all wrong, then I've been doing it all wrong for over 40 years.

All the best and different strokes for different folks.

Danny.


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## Gavjenks (Apr 11, 2014)

jjd228 said:


> I see a lot of people shooting in manual just so they can say "hey look at how cool I am, I shoot in manual!" Kinda like people that struggle with Linux just so they can say they don't use Windows
> 
> But I do have a real question about this. If you're going to shoot in manual and tweak your settings to get your on-camera light meter right in the middle at the "standard exposure" mark, then why shoot in manual? Am I missing something? I'd really like to understand why people do it. If your goal is to get a standard exposure then why not shoot in one of the other modes?



There are definitely some good reasons to shoot in manual, sometimes:
1) If your preferences for a given aperture, shutter, or ISO change rapidly. Like if one moment, I prioritize aperture, and another, I prioritize shutter, etc. It may be cognitively easier for some people to just use manual for both, rather than switching modes constantly.
2) If the lighting situation is not changing, and you want all of the shots from a single shoot of that location to look consistent BETWEEN each other.  If you put two photos side by side, one of a part of a scene that everybody knows is in shadow, and another that everybody knows is brighter, they will look weird together if the camera metered each one independently. When showing photos in groups, you want to the shadow one to look "underexposed" a bit, and the lit area brighter, so that it looks like a consistent experience to the viewer.  For single shots alone, this doesn't matter, but for something like a magazine spread of a model in 5 different poses over a few pages, for example, or a panoramic triptych, it does.
3) It's often easier when using flash, if ETTL isn't available or relevant or helpful, or if you simply want to drown out ambient entirely. in Av, that would mean fiddling with umpteen different compensation values, etc. and still having things inconsistent. In manual, it's just BOOM, set it to my camera's sync speed, use the guide number to choose aperture and ISO, and done.
4) It's good when you're just beginning to get an idea of what different things do.

But if you're just doing it for none of the above reasons or any other thought-out, reasonable purpose, then yes, you're being rather silly.


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## bribrius (Apr 11, 2014)

I shoot in manual because im too stupid to use the other modes.


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## GertjanGoetynck (Apr 11, 2014)

Doesn't using a priority mode give you just as much control as manual though, just in a different way?

I am still a newbie, but I thought that if you use for example apperture priority mode, you can control the shutter speed by changing the ISO, and adjust over / under exposure to your liking by using exposure compensation. To me it feels like this achieves close to the same results as manual, but faster? You don't have to worry about correct exposure, and if you still don't get the exposure you want you can adjust by using Exposure Compensation or am I mistaking?

(may be my lack of experience talking here)


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## Braineack (Apr 11, 2014)

GertjanGoetynck said:


> Doesn't using a priority mode give you just as much control as manual though, just in a different way?
> 
> I am still a newbie, but I thought that if you use for example apperture priority mode, you can control the shutter speed by changing the ISO, and adjust over / under exposure to your liking by using exposure compensation. To me it feels like this achieves close to the same results as manual, but faster? You don't have to worry about correct exposure, and if you still don't get the exposure you want you can adjust by using Exposure Compensation or am I mistaking?
> 
> (may be my lack of experience talking here)



No. Not really.

Sent from my HTC6435LVW using Tapatalk


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## Dao (Apr 11, 2014)

GertjanGoetynck said:


> Doesn't using a priority mode give you just as much control as manual though, just in a different way?
> 
> I am still a newbie, but I thought that if you use for example apperture priority mode, you can control the shutter speed by changing the ISO, and adjust over / under exposure to your liking by using exposure compensation. To me it feels like this achieves close to the same results as manual, but faster? You don't have to worry about correct exposure, and if you still don't get the exposure you want you can adjust by using Exposure Compensation or am I mistaking?
> 
> (may be my lack of experience talking here)




The answer is yes and no.

There are times that shooting manual make more sense. 
 For example, you need to shoot about hundred products and they are about the same size.  So you setup the environment and the lights.  Then with the camera on tripod, set the aperture (give enough DoF), shutter speed, ISO value and light power manually.  I usually focus the subject manually or AF the subject then set it to manual focus afterward.  With that, all you need is put the subject in the desire spot and "Click".  After you done with the first one, replace the subject and "Click" again.  
With that, I can go through hundred of items pretty quick.   

Same thing apply to constant environment. 

I agree with you that exposure compensation works great.  However,  knowing where to spot meter with exposure works even better for me.  i.e.  day time shooting outdoor with grass field.  I will spot meter the grass with exposure lock and then recompose and shoot.  Or spot meter a lighter skin person's face and then recompose.  If I spot meter a darker skin person, I may need to use exposure compensation.


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## snowbear (Apr 12, 2014)

I learned with manual so I'm used to it.  Now I use aperture and shutter priority the most but still use manual when I think it's the best choice (like bracketing and panoramas), when I'm using the Nikkormat, or when I have an old AI-S Nikkor mounted up.

The only full auto I use is the transmission in our truck.


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## daggah (Apr 12, 2014)

If I'm in control of the light, or the light isn't changing, I'll probably shoot in Manual.  Otherwise, I'm in aperture priority.  I often bracket my shots if I'm taking pictures of static scenes while traveling, because matrix metering and bracketing is the fastest way to get the shot and move on, and I can just choose the picture later to figure out which image in the bracketed set I want to edit.


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## GertjanGoetynck (Apr 12, 2014)

Dao said:


> GertjanGoetynck said:
> 
> 
> > Doesn't using a priority mode give you just as much control as manual though, just in a different way?
> ...


So basically, in a studio Manual is the way to go, and for wildlife / landscapes / sports (the fields that interest me most) it may be a good idea to use priority modes because the lighting isn't constant? (something as subtle as a cloud passing in front of the sun can make a huge difference I recon)


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## paigew (Apr 12, 2014)

GertjanGoetynck said:


> So basically, in a studio Manual is the way to go, and for wildlife / landscapes / sports (the fields that interest me most) it may be a good idea to use priority modes because the lighting isn't constant? (something as subtle as a cloud passing in front of the sun can make a huge difference I recon)


I would say go with what you are proficient at . If that is manual all the time then do it! There is no better/best.


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## Overread (Apr 12, 2014)

paigew said:


> I would say go with what you are proficient at . If that is manual all the time then do it! There is no better/best.



I get what you're saying, but I would say go with what you feel/find is best. Work from a position where you can shoot in most of the modes of the camera (priority modes and manual at the very least - program and auto are optional). From there you can then easily choose what suits you best in the given situation and lighting.


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## paigew (Apr 12, 2014)

Overread said:


> paigew said:
> 
> 
> > I would say go with what you are proficient at . If that is manual all the time then do it! There is no better/best.
> ...



Well that is basically what I was saying  Do what you are best at/ what works for you.


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## Braineack (Apr 12, 2014)

I get more confused using A, S, and P modes.  I'm always like, wtf is this thing doing?!


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## paigew (Apr 12, 2014)

Braineack said:


> I get more confused using A, S, and P modes.  I'm always like, wtf is this thing doing?!


yes this. /\


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## daggah (Apr 12, 2014)

Braineack said:


> I get more confused using A, S, and P modes.  I'm always like, wtf is this thing doing?!



So, basically, you're blaming the equipment when you don't understand why it's doing what it's doing?  Have you read the manual?


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## Overread (Apr 12, 2014)

Automatic and Program modes are annoying when you know what you're doing which is why once you know the controls of the camera you can often leave them behind; I'm not sure what S mode is. 

Aperture and Shutter priority are simple - its automatic balancing of the exposure to 0 on the exposure meter (or +- from 0 using exposure compensation) based upon the meter reading. If that's al you're doing in manual mode then the priority modes will do that just as well and faster.


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## paigew (Apr 12, 2014)

daggah said:


> Braineack said:
> 
> 
> > I get more confused using A, S, and P modes.  I'm always like, wtf is this thing doing?!
> ...


No its not that. But if you are shooting in a priority mode you DON'T KNOW what the camera will do. There are probable choices but sometimes the camera will do something wonky and your like "wtf?". I am pretty much strictly a natural light shooter, and metering is SO important in complicated lighting situations. I need to know what my camera is going to do, I can't leave it to chance.


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## Braineack (Apr 12, 2014)

daggah said:


> Braineack said:
> 
> 
> > I get more confused using A, S, and P modes.  I'm always like, wtf is this thing doing?!
> ...




Full Auto mode.  CH.  Spray and Pray.


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## daggah (Apr 12, 2014)

paigew said:


> daggah said:
> 
> 
> > Braineack said:
> ...



If you understand your camera, you'll understand what your camera is going to do.  The only thing I could credit would be things like the D800's tendency to weigh the area around the focus point more heavily in matrix metering mode.  But guess what?  If you don't understand your camera, you're gonna get surprised by its decisions whether you're in Aperture Priority or manual, because you're basing your own manual decisions on the same metering system.  It's not like it's going to operate any differently just because you're in a different shooting mode.


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## astroNikon (Apr 12, 2014)

When I'm shooting soccer I was testing Aperture priority mode @ 2.8, with Auto ISO (to make it a bit quicker)
But then I like to control the shutter to get some leg blur when making a kick from time to time.

I always tend to move into Manual mode for more control of how I want the photo to look.


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## paigew (Apr 12, 2014)

daggah said:


> paigew said:
> 
> 
> > daggah said:
> ...



I checked out your flickr, and yeah, you kinda know what your doing...but guess what...so do I  

Yes the camera (when on any sort of auto or priority mode) will sometimes choose settings that I would not. So that is why I always shoot in manual. always. I can't believe you are sitting here saying people who shoot in manual don't understand their camera...:er:


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## daggah (Apr 12, 2014)

I'm saying that the guy who is surprised by what his camera does in a priority mode should probably freshen up his understanding of his camera, absolutely.  He doesn't seem to understand how it works.

What are you doing when you shoot your camera in M mode outside of a controlled situation?  What's your process?  If it involves adjusting your settings until the little exposure meter in your viewfinder is on the zero point, then guess what?  All you're doing is the same thing that the camera would do in a priority mode, just more slowly.  If you're looking at the scene and deciding that the proper exposure is a little + or - the zero point, you could achieve the same thing again with exposure compensation in a priority mode.

Please, describe a scenario where the lighting is so complicated that you can't trust your camera to get it right.  I'm curious as to what process you employ in your own mind to figure out the correct settings in that scenario...and I have my suspicions that the process includes a lot of "chimping."


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## daggah (Apr 12, 2014)

And as far as my own work goes...well, shooting with a D800 is almost cheating.  As long as I don't blow the highlights, it almost doesn't matter what I do with my exposures.

Example:




No light?  No problem! by davidgevert, on Flickr

(I had killed ambient light because I was shooting with off-camera flash.  The flashes were on standby and didn't fire for this picture.  It's not usable in color, but B&W still works.)


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## paigew (Apr 12, 2014)

daggah said:


> I'm saying that the guy who is surprised by what his camera does in a priority mode should probably freshen up his understanding of his camera, absolutely.  He doesn't seem to understand how it works.
> 
> What are you doing when you shoot your camera in M mode outside of a controlled situation?  What's your process?  If it involves adjusting your settings until the little exposure meter in your viewfinder is on the zero point, then guess what?  All you're doing is the same thing that the camera would do in a priority mode, just more slowly.  If you're looking at the scene and deciding that the proper exposure is a little + or - the zero point, you could achieve the same thing again with exposure compensation in a priority mode.
> 
> Please, describe a scenario where the lighting is so complicated that you can't trust your camera to get it right.  I'm curious as to what process you employ in your own mind to figure out the correct settings in that scenario...and I have my suspicions that the process includes a lot of "chimping."


I am not even going to respond to this craziness. :madmad:


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## paigew (Apr 12, 2014)

daggah said:


> And as far as my own work goes...well, shooting with a D800 is almost cheating.  As long as I don't blow the highlights, it almost doesn't matter what I do with my exposures.
> 
> Example:
> 
> ...



annnd I don't think that works. I would never keep an image with that bad an exposure. See...case closed. Manual mode for the win.


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## daggah (Apr 12, 2014)

paigew said:


> I am not even going to respond to this craziness. :madmad:



You won't...or you can't?


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## daggah (Apr 12, 2014)

paigew said:


> annnd I don't think that works. I would never keep an image with that bad an exposure. See...case closed. Manual mode for the win.



I was in M mode for that shot...because I was in control of the light.  Flashes were set to manual power as well.  It's not a bad exposure, it's a frame where the flashes didn't fire.  I didn't use the image, it's more an example of what the D800 can do.  It's pretty ridiculous that it can pull that much detail out of nearly pitch black shadows.


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## paigew (Apr 12, 2014)

daggah said:


> paigew said:
> 
> 
> > I am not even going to respond to this craziness. :madmad:
> ...


I guess you don't know me very well. I would LOVE to argue with you   but I gotta run. Supposed to be at a gig in an hour.  I will be shooting it outdoors. Manual all the way  No chimping, no time for that when you shoot fast subjects. You gotta know your sh*t.


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## Braineack (Apr 12, 2014)

paigew said:


> Yes the camera (when on any sort of auto or priority mode) will sometimes choose settings that I would not. So that is why I always shoot in manual. always. I can't believe you are sitting here saying people who shoot in manual don't understand their camera...:er:



Because I already said I only shoot manual to impress my friends.


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## AlanKlein (Apr 12, 2014)

In auto mode, change the EV + or -  setting by moving the camera to relatively darker or lighter areas until you get the aperture you want. Then lock the AEL (or half shutter) and re-position the camera to take the shot.


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## Derrel (Apr 12, 2014)

AlanKlein said:


> In auto mode, change the EV + or -  setting by moving the camera to relatively darker or lighter areas until you get the aperture you want. Then lock the AEL (or half shutter) and re-position the camera to take the shot.



Alan is describing a very old way to use Aperture-priority automatic exposure, a method that's been around since the 1960's. It worked great with Nikons that used their 60/40 center-weighted light metering. Inside the viewfinder of Nikon SLRs and d-slrs is a 12mm-diameter, scribed circle on the viewfinder screen. 

The long-time standard Nikon-brand center-weighted light metering worked like this: That 12mm scribed circle has the MAJORITY of the meter's sensitivity and "weight" or "bias" devoted to it, with the remaining 40% of the weighting or bias spread out, over the entire balance of the screen's real estate. In the F3, Nikon went to an even more strongly-weighted system, the 80%--20% system.

Using this kind of center-weighted system, it was/is easy to just aim the camera at "an area", and hold the shutter button halfway down to lock exposure. With more-modern, AF cameras, it became necessary to add a control, or two, to the camera, to separate AE lock from AF lock, and so on. But the way Alan is describing things works really well. If you want MORE exposure, swing the camera to a DARKER AREA. If you want to shoot for the brightest tones, swing the camera toward a BRIGHT area, and then press a button and the exposure is set, and held. No need to add-in Plus- or Minus- exposure compensation on any dial or menu.

This is a really fast, easy, convenient way to use Aperture priority automatic mode. I learned to use this system years ago, and with the cameras of that era that had a constantly-visible light meter needle, not LED's or LCD readouts, the visual up- and down- of the meter needle was really easy to interpret sort of out of the corner of the eye...needle low=dim, needle high=bright...


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## AlanKlein (Apr 12, 2014)

Derrel:  Thanks for giving away my age.   Actually this quick, simple method works on P&S's and other modern cameras. Just be careful that the focal plane is the same in the "adjustment" view as the final view for the shot if the half shutter method locks the focus as well as well as the exposure.  That's usually the case on P&S's.   You don't have to worry about that if the camera has separate AEL exposure and AFL focus lock buttons.


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## Solarflare (Apr 12, 2014)

About this, on my D600, my AE/AF Lock button is usually set to AF ON, thus not available for the original functionality, and I need all other programmeable buttons too, so they arent available either.

I really need AF ON, because the AF area is pretty limited and I need better control of the AF a lot.

Thats why if I want that functionality, I indeed switch to M.


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## daggah (Apr 12, 2014)

One thing I do if I'm shooting outside and I'm facing a situation with difficult lighting and a huge disparity in dynamic range, but I still want to shoot in aperture priority...I aim my camera up at the sky real quick and check out what shutter speed it's giving me if I were going to take a picture of the sky by itself.  If the shutter speed is several stops faster than what I'm seeing from my scene, I know that taking the shot will blow the highlights, and I need to consider bracketing or exposure compensation (knowing that I can bring shadows back up in Lightroom later.)


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## astroNikon (Apr 12, 2014)

I shot part of a soccer game in Aperture Priority ... the camera did the nice thing of making everything +1 Exposure to the way it should look.  
I switched to M at some point and brought it down myself.


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## daggah (Apr 12, 2014)

astroNikon said:


> I shot part of a soccer game in Aperture Priority ... the camera did the nice thing of making everything +1 Exposure to the way it should look.
> I switched to M at some point and brought it down myself.



So once again, we have someone blaming the equipment.  Did you have exposure compensation applied?  Or did you attempt to apply exposure compensation to fix the overexposure?


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## SpikeyJohnson (Apr 12, 2014)

I know exactly what you mean.  I generally swap modes based on what I'm doing rather than showing off.  I think people who shoot exclusively in manual, to say they do, don't understand why people would use Shutter Priority, Aperture Priority or any other mode.  They don't totally realize that the other modes are useful as well and that they can be used to speed up their process and their time used will be much smaller.  Also most of them probably don't know what a light meter is and think that the camera's built in meter will always be perfect.  For this same reason they never check their histogram to make sure the color's are all contained in they dynamic range of the camera.


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## astroNikon (Apr 12, 2014)

daggah said:


> astroNikon said:
> 
> 
> > I shot part of a soccer game in Aperture Priority ... the camera did the nice thing of making everything +1 Exposure to the way it should look.
> ...


who blamed the equipment.
just the algorthym of my settings.  I just lowered the shutter speed rather than lowering the exposure as I like to control the shutter speed for various things instead of just exposure .... just more variables to have to change to get my desired results .... more KISS logic.


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## paigew (Apr 13, 2014)

SpikeyJohnson said:


> I know exactly what you mean.  I generally swap modes based on what I'm doing rather than showing off.  I think people who shoot exclusively in manual, to say they do, don't understand why people would use Shutter Priority, Aperture Priority or any other mode.  They don't totally realize that the other modes are useful as well and that they can be used to speed up their process and their time used will be much smaller.  Also most of them probably don't know what a light meter is and think that the camera's built in meter will always be perfect.  For this same reason they never check their histogram to make sure the color's are all contained in they dynamic range of the camera.


I think your main problem, is that you don't understand people are different. That is WHY there are so many bodies and so many different ways to take a picture. People shoot differently and some people (me included) may be faster when using Manual mode than when using a priority mode. I can 100% promise you, I am faster in Manual mode...because it is what I learned on, and what I am used to. It would be really stupid for me to try and change something I am proficient at. 

And FWIW I use my light meter, and my histograms. And I expose to the right, not on zero. SO...


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## pgriz (Apr 13, 2014)

When I go shooting outside, I already know the approximate exposure I will be using.  On bright, sunny days, it's ISO 100, f/8, 1/500 sec.  Open shade, same scenario, 4 stops less.  Semi-sunny, weak shadows is 1/250 sec.  Overcast is 1/125 sec.  If the lens is long, I adjust based on "my" hand-holding limits and set the shutter speed accordingly.  If the lighting is constantly changing (think partly cloudy with the sun alternating between hiding behind clouds and not), then Av is the easiest mode to use.  If I'm indoors (but no flash), then manual gives me the most control, as there is usually a very wide dynamic range with areas near windows being much brighter than the interior shadow areas (6 stops or more), and manual allows me to chose which level of brightness I want to expose for.  If I'm going for a specific blur effect, then depending on the light stability, it's either manual or Tv.  If I'm shooting in bright conditions with fill flash, then usually Av gives the best results if light is variable, and M if the light is stable.  If I'm shooting off-camera flash, then Manual gives me the necessary amount of control.  Point being, each mode has its uses, and I will switch based on what the situation needs.  I also use an incident light meter to check the ambient/flash exposures, and I check the histograms to verify that I'm getting the detail I want.  But once I've determined the appropriate exposure, there is no need to keep checking the histogram unless the light changes.


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## glun (Apr 14, 2014)

jjd228 said:


> I see a lot of people shooting in manual just so they can say "hey look at how cool I am, I shoot in manual!" Kinda like people that struggle with Linux just so they can say they don't use Windows
> 
> But I do have a real question about this. If you're going to shoot in manual and tweak your settings to get your on-camera light meter right in the middle at the "standard exposure" mark, then why shoot in manual? Am I missing something? I'd really like to understand why people do it. If your goal is to get a standard exposure then why not shoot in one of the other modes?



It's more for creativity. In simple term I want to have more control of how the camera to capture light in various way. I can make it over or underexpose, drag the shutter to shoot great even harsh light conditions, or whatever you style you want. Shooting in other mode will get you the normal exposure the sensor THINKS you should take, but nothing else.


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## paigew (Apr 14, 2014)

/\yes!!!!! Thank you!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## Braineack (Apr 14, 2014)

It's quite easy for me to end up with the exact settings in M mode as in A.  I just prefer using M when the lighting isn't going to change and I've metering on something in particular.

Otherwise in A I must meter it, press exposure lock, then recompose/focus and take to picture.  I learned on a full manual camera and switching the settings in that manner work well for for me.

But otherwise, I was just kidding around in this thread.  I do still want that shirt if Derrel was serious...


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## JoeW (Apr 15, 2014)

jjd228 said:


> I see a lot of people shooting in manual just so they can say "hey look at how cool I am, I shoot in manual!" Kinda like people that struggle with Linux just so they can say they don't use Windows
> 
> But I do have a real question about this. If you're going to shoot in manual and tweak your settings to get your on-camera light meter right in the middle at the "standard exposure" mark, then why shoot in manual? Am I missing something? I'd really like to understand why people do it. If your goal is to get a standard exposure then why not shoot in one of the other modes?




First of all, an admission:  after decades spent shooting in manual (including once AF was available) I now shoot mostly in auto.  Why?  My eyesight isn't what it once was and unless I'm tethered, I rely on the camera 55-60% of the time to "get it right" when it comes to focus and general exposure.

However, the "rest of the time" (the other 45-40%) I'm either on manual or I'm adjusting something (like aperture or exposure compensation or adding some fill flash).  

Second, I think it makes sense to learn how to shoot in manual mostly for the reasons why it makes sense to learn how to drive a stick shift--b/c it means you learn how to operate your camera.  That doesn't mean you then need to buy a standard shift car or only rent sticks.  But you've got a capability that is useful.  

Third, I trust the camera a lot but I trust my own experience and composition even more.  Think of all the situations where autofocus goes batty or is too slow (like very low light)...the camera can't focus (or can't make up her mind what to focus on) but I know how and what I want the lens on so I focus manually.  Or when you've got tough lighting (sun reflecting off of snow or a white beach, or a person in a white shirt next to some deep shadow) and you have to make the call as to what the picture is about b/c the camera can't.  And this doesn't even get in to white balance settings (I NEVER shoot with AWB any more--AWB just eliminates the highlights and color extremes and I'm often drawn to a shot b/c of the extremes).

Think of it this way...if you have a zoom lens on your body, why would you ever zoom?  Duh--sometimes it's a more compelling picture if you crop or zoom back--right?  Well, the same with shooting manually.  So to summarize, I don't always shoot manually but when I do, I shoot Dos Equis (oh wait, confused with a different message).  In any case, when it comes to camera knowledge, stay thirsty my friend!


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## Pav10566 (Apr 15, 2014)

Sometimes what your eye sees is not necessarily how the camera will take / shoot / record it....especially with particular light situations, depth of field, "contre-jour photography" ...you name it and then only the manual settings will help you with a tad of experience. Some people also prefer using analogiue film rolls rather than digital

I've never seen anyone making it sound as if they were so cool about using manual settings...except for manual shift cars maybe so that they can feel the engine bla bla bla bla but never in photography


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## LinusR (May 23, 2014)

Being a total newbie, I have spent a lot of time shooting in manual to understand the impact the exposure has on my photos. It has helped a lot to understand the underlying concepts


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## ConradM (May 23, 2014)

People shoot in Manual as a status thing? Really?


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## ConradM (May 23, 2014)

I shoot in Manual but I don't use the light meter as much as I just go off what my real time view looks like. It's pretty handy/quick. :mrgreen:


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## dubiousone (May 23, 2014)

Big Mike said:


> I teach a photography class called 'Using your DSLR' but it's really mostly about teaching the students how to shoot in manual mode.
> 
> Here is the main reasoning that I give the students as to why I think manual mode is better...
> 
> ...




And the whole point of this exercise is to get the student to understand exposure and how to 'read' different scenes, yes?


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## Soulz3urn3lack (May 25, 2014)

I must admit, I shoot manual mode because all my friends do.  It's a peer pressure sort of thing...  Otherwise I'd be a hipster and just shoot auto because it's totally against the mainstream. /end sarcasm


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## 480sparky (May 25, 2014)

I don't consider manual to be a status symbol.  I consider it just one of the tools available to me and one which I bring to bear when it's appropriate.


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## Bamps (May 25, 2014)

I have no clue what a Linux is but I pretty much only use manual for night photography.


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## snowbear (May 25, 2014)

Bamps said:


> I have no clue what a Linux is



A computer operating system.  The logo is a penguin.


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## Josh66 (May 25, 2014)

So, if shooting in manual makes you cool, how cool are you if your camera doesn't even have an automatic mode to choose from?  

I shoot manual all the time because it works.  I don't have to change any settings every time I move my camera slightly.  I know you can get the same results in any of the other modes, but not without pressing a bunch of buttons or going into a menu.  I hate using exposure compensation (the only time I use it is when I'm using a filter that requires it on a non-TTL metering camera) - I'd rather just look at the meter and put the needle where I want it.


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## syaudi (May 26, 2014)

My greatest work I ever shot was in manual mode on manual focus. It was, actually, a blind shot, where all I did was set the hyper focal distance, gauge the distance from lens to subject, adjusted zoom where I thought appropriate, and hit the shutter button. All without looking in the OVF. Is this really cool? Yeah, it was, and I spend every minute bragging about it to someone. But did I do it to look cool? Well, I was all alone in my backyard, taking pictures of a flower while being eaten alive by mosquitoes, so I suppose the only thing I was attracting with my coolness were bloodsuckers. But the fact is, I consider it my greatest achievement not because it was focused perfectly on the flower, not because I had metered correctly, nor was my exposure spot on, but I did it because in that moment, I thought I could. So I adjusted, and went for it. Since then I haven't shot in manual mode again because I haven't been in a situation where I felt the need to use it. Admittedly, I haven't shot anything nearly as good up until now, so hopefully I'll get another chance to try my luck again sometime soon.  If you have the space or the time for thoughts about how cool you look in manual, obviously your thoughts aren't on subject interaction, leading to rather decidedly subpar photos.
Also, standard exposure, like some other people have said here, looks the same in every mode. The difference is in convenience. Do you have the time to consider something artsy like overexposing? Hit that manual switch. Need to take a quick shot before moving on? Keep your finger off the mode switch. Points have been made that once a change is made, it's there to stay. In my experience, this is pure gold, as sometimes there are settings I absolutely do not want tampered with, but in anything not manual these get changed without my say-so. Sometimes I can't have this, but other times I get lucky and my picture, while turning out different from what I had imagined, actually came out looking extraordinary, because what had changed had also changed something in the picture. Sometimes I like that randomness. Sometimes. Mostly I'm just extremely unlucky. :meh:
At the end of the day, however, manual is just a mode. If that's how people roll, let them roll. You'll see later whether they have the skills to avoid the muddy ditch approaching in the distance.


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## minicoop1985 (May 26, 2014)

I rarely shoot in manual anymore. I use it when I need it, but aperture priority is where all the cool kids are hanging out these days. I'm still trying to figure out what that little green rectangle is for, but I'm afraid to try it.


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## TammyCampbell (May 26, 2014)

I shoot A priority mostly. But sometimes due to light conditions or other reasons that confound the camera.I will shoot in m because it would be the only way to get the shot. Still learning everything..but by no means do I think I'm cool or not cool for using manual if I get the result I want that is most important I think..  Everyone has a style that they are more comfortable with.. We all have our own ways of learning..:meh:


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## bluestreaks78 (May 27, 2014)

I shoot in manual because I like to be in complete control of the camera. For example, one of my hobbies is photographing trains. With their bright headlights, the camera meter is often thrown off when in any mode other than manual, leading to an underexposed image. Additionally, I find that my D7000's meter tends to under or over expose in most situations, so by zeroing in manual mode then adjusting from there I can ensure it is where I want it until the light changes.


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## cynicaster (May 28, 2014)

There are definitely wannabes out there who use M just to say they use M.  

But any post-novice shooter who is worth a darn should know how all of the "variables" affect the result, and always be mentally aware of how each of the variables is set, regardless of whether they're being set by a microprocessor or a thumb wheel.  So, then, what's really the difference between Av/Tv/M?  No more than the difference between right-click->copy and CTRL-C in Windows.  It's just that, as in the latter example, one method or the other may be more logical/appropriate/convenient for the specific situation at hand.


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## Soulz3urn3lack (May 29, 2014)

Honestly I didn't even know this was a "Thing"  I thought everyone aspired to be able to shoot manual.  I had no idea is was just a cool factor thing...


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## Derrel (May 29, 2014)

I shot 420 exposures this Memorial Day with my Nikon using Matrix Metering mode, kmostly using aperture priority at f/5.6 for the majority, and f/7,.1 for a few, and f/10 for some. I was using AUTO ISO, 24,35,and 70-300mm lenses. I programmed the Auto ISO to 1/200 second minimum speeds, and a maximum ISO of 1600 at the very start of the day. Of the 420 shots I fired, I had three slightly too-bright exposures, and on the third too-bright shot, when that one came up on the LCD, I IMMEDIATELY hit the +/- EC button and I spun the command wheel too many clicks and ended up at ay Minus 2.0 instead of Minus 1.3.


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## clickwell (May 31, 2014)

Hi,
just to add to what other nice photographers have already mentioned, normally, manual mode is used by mostly advance photographers just so to have more control over their exposures and photo results. This is similar in saying, to allow room for creativity for most experienced photographers. Proper exposure can be subjective depending on what 
mood a particular photographer would like to express in his/her photos. Be reminded though that it is ok to explore manual mode provided you have good understanding of the basics. Usually, experts would suggest that for beginners, it's better to start off in Semi auto mode such as aperture or shutter modes. just my 2 cents, hope it helps 

Regards,


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## greybeard (Jun 26, 2014)

Just practice shooting everything in manual. After a while you will start to realize when it is better to shoot in manual and when auto is fine. AE lock will work as well as manual in most but not all situations. As far as shooting in manual being a status symbol, that is a new one.


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## ConradM (Jun 27, 2014)

clickwell said:


> Hi,
> *just to add to what other nice photographers have already mentioned, normally, manual mode is used by mostly advance photographers just so to have more control over their exposures and photo results.* This is similar in saying, to allow room for creativity for most experienced photographers. Proper exposure can be subjective depending on what
> mood a particular photographer would like to express in his/her photos. Be reminded though that it is ok to explore manual mode provided you have good understanding of the basics. Usually, experts would suggest that for beginners, it's better to start off in Semi auto mode such as aperture or shutter modes. just my 2 cents, hope it helps
> 
> Regards,



That can't be right. It seemed like a no-brainer to learn how to use my DSLR when I first got it. I was shooting in M within about an hour of some googling and reading the manual.


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## ronlane (Jun 27, 2014)

paigew said:


> I shoot in Manual 100% of the time. I need to control everything. I don't like the camera changing things up on me  Probably why I use CWB too...control freak.



So you'll be easy to pick out when/if I'm in Austin shooting, huh  lol


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## sashbar (Jun 27, 2014)

Overread said:


> Automatic and Program modes are annoying when you know what you're doing which is why once you know the controls of the camera you can often leave them behind; I'm not sure what S mode is.
> 
> Aperture and Shutter priority are simple - its automatic balancing of the exposure to 0 on the exposure meter (or +- from 0 using exposure compensation) based upon the meter reading. If that's al you're doing in manual mode then the priority modes will do that just as well and faster.



this is not entirely correct.  

A and S mode allow you to do the same  as Manual, only faster. 
In A mode You can set ISO to auto and forget about it. You can limit the minimum shutter speed and forget about it. You will know it will be fast enough not to cause any blur. (If you want bulge you switch to S)
All you need to control is  aperture,  exposure compensation and you need to get used to AEL - exposure lock.  If your camera allows you +\- 3 EC,  in most situations you are practically as much in control as in Manual,  only faster.

In situations like street shooting you often do not have enough time for Manual. The scene is changing very fast and the light is different all the time.


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## AlanKlein (Jun 27, 2014)

I never considered getting the right exposure as something creative or cool.  If manual gets you to proper exposure, great.  If Auto gets you there, great.   If you want creative cool photos, work on content, lighting, interest, story telling, etc.


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## greybeard (Jun 29, 2014)

stage 1, master your camera
stage 2, master composition
stage 3, master the  light

This is only a stage 1 thing.


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## Tee (Jun 29, 2014)

I shoot in manual because often I use a handheld light meter and the readings from the light meter often vary from the in-camera meter.  Using manual allows me to dial in the exact reading the light meter tells me to.  I think it's important to understand all modes before determining what works for you.  That's the difference between "I only shoot in manual because the cool kids on the internet tell me to" and "I shoot in manual because of x,y, & z."  

If you go to the B&H videos on YouTube, Joe Bussink gives a great reason why *P* mode is his choice for shooting weddings.  The various modes exist for a reason.  Knowing when to use them is generally your first lightbulb moment of grasping the fundamentals of photography.


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## dennybeall (Jun 29, 2014)

Having made my first camera upgrade to a NIKON F with a Photomic Head, a few(?) years ago, I find manual to be a trip down memory lane. It's useful and as I "work" a shot it lets me think about different approaches and compositions. Other times fixed "F" or speed is the right thing to do.
However, I paid some hard earned money for a Nikon camera with features and I want to use them, so I will when it's appropriate. The camera sits in Auto with auto ISO and set for raw just in case I need to grab it and shoot quick. Also a good thing if I need to get Karen (total non photographer) to pick up the camera and get a picture.


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## greybeard (Jun 30, 2014)

dennybeall said:


> Having made my first camera upgrade to a NIKON F with a Photomic Head, a few(?) years ago, I find manual to be a trip down memory lane. It's useful and as I "work" a shot it lets me think about different approaches and compositions. Other times fixed "F" or speed is the right thing to do.
> However, I paid some hard earned money for a Nikon camera with features and I want to use them, so I will when it's appropriate. The camera sits in Auto with auto ISO and set for raw just in case I need to grab it and shoot quick. Also a good thing if I need to get Karen (total non photographer) to pick up the camera and get a picture.


Exactly


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## Ido (Jul 1, 2014)

I shoot in A (aperture priority) almost all the time. The last thing I want my camera to control automatically is aperture. But I think that by "not Manual", you don't mean something like P or fully automatic (that dreaded green camera icon), so you probably already knew that.
I usually let the camera pick the ISO automatically, but I always keep an eye on both it and the shutter speed. If I need to freeze motion, I typically resort to simply changing the ISO instead of switching to M (manual). If the camera insists on a fast shutter speed and high ISO when I want to smooth motion or get the most dynamic range that the sensor has to offer (and thanks to the 5-axis in-body image stabilization in my OM-D, I rarely need to worry about camera shake), I just lower the ISO.

There are instances where/when I prefer M, though:

*Shooting for HDR.* I hate AE bracketing. I've never liked it. Tim Cooper's method (



) makes much more sense to me.
*Shooting sports.* Here's the thing, I don't really have such a great telephoto lens. It's 75-300mm f/4.8-6.7 in specification (2x crop factor). The zoom range is wonderful (a la Tamron 150-600mm), the aperture is horrible. I rarely shoot sports, or any action for that matter, but when I do, I use M mode. But even then, I use Auto ISO. Yup. I set the aperture to the widest possible, the shutter speed to the slowest one that effectively freezes motion (trial and error to find that), and let the camera choose an ISO - because when shooting dancers, for example, the lighting always changes, so I won't always need the maximum ISO. I configured Auto ISO with the maximum ISO in the native range (not the Extended ISOs) as the upper limit. So if light changes drastically, and it's very dim, I'll get an underexposed image that I can then think what can be done with it. But then, when the light changes drastically the other way around, the camera will automatically choose a lower ISO.
*Astronography.* Another thing I do very rarely. Whenever I photograph the night sky, I use M mode, because the camera's built-in light meter doesn't do a good job in this situation. Some cameras might do better; I don't have any experience with flagship DSLRs, but I assume that their meters are better suited for this kind of stuff.
That's it.

By the way, I use Mac OS X. Not Linux, but still not Windows. So I guess I win.


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## GWAC (Jul 4, 2014)

I shoot in manual because I like to have full override control of my camera at all times. In shutter priority, you have control over the exposure time and the ability to stop motion. In aperture priority, you have full control over the depth of field. P mode might as well be auto mode with a few manual control tweaks, such as ability to set and maintain a specific ISO. 

I shoot manual almost 100% of the time because my brain automatically goes through the steps of properly exposing the image and depicting the scene how I want it, and I may make an adjustment that wouldn't be the way the cameras algorithm set would have chosen to do it. I don't shoot in auto or scene modes because, well, a D800 doesn't have auto or scene modes. 

PS - The in TTL light meter is not always right. In fact, I have found it to be more often wrong, than right.


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## D7K (Jul 4, 2014)

runnah said:


> Anytime I am around other photographers I casually position my camera so they can see my dial in the M position. When they notice, I give them a wink and a nod, then gently cup their buttocks.



 :lmao:


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## manaheim (Jul 4, 2014)

Zombie thread.
Fairly fresh, but still long dead.


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## Britanica (Jul 30, 2014)

Hipster shooters. lol I never understood that either. People do that with everything though, not just cameras. Right now it is "cool" to be "different" so a lot of people are doing things they don't even understand to stand out more, all while blending deeper into the trendy cesspool.


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## pgriz (Jul 30, 2014)

manaheim said:


> Zombie thread.
> Fairly fresh, but still long dead.



Don't youi guys/gals get arrayed with the appropriate tools, like silver bullets and wooden stakes, when you get anointed moderators???


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## e.rose (Jul 30, 2014)

jjd228 said:


> I see a lot of people shooting in manual just so they can say "hey look at how cool I am, I shoot in manual!" Kinda like people that struggle with Linux just so they can say they don't use Windows
> 
> But I do have a real question about this. If you're going to shoot in manual and tweak your settings to get your on-camera light meter right in the middle at the "standard exposure" mark, then why shoot in manual? Am I missing something? I'd really like to understand why people do it. If your goal is to get a standard exposure then why not shoot in one of the other modes?



Because I don't tweak my settings to get my on-camera light meter in the middle at the "standard exposure" mark.

I tweak my settings to get my on-camera light meter to whatever exposure mark is appropriate for what I'm metering... Which is very often, NOT in the center.

And if you think people only shoot in manual to say "look how cool I am", you need to learn you some mo' schtuff.


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## ristretto (Jul 30, 2014)

jjd228 said:


> Am I missing something?



Yes: the satisfaction of _knowing light_ without using a light meter, applying the 'Sunny 16 Rule' in lighting situations for your desired choice of shutter-speed and aperture, from dazzling sunshine,  to dark, gloomy interiors of buildings. 

With digital cameras, particularly older/earlier ones, you can work out the camera's true ISO for its base sensitivity. With old Nikon DSLRs like the D1/D100 era  '200 ISO on the camera'  equates more accurately to an ISO/ASA rating of 80-100. ISO/ASA 200 equates more accurately to ISO 400-500 on the camera - depending on whether the scene is lit by direct daylight or whether there is only low ambient or artificial interior light. You get to know a digital camera's sensor capability in this way and compensate for it.

I calculate Sunny 16 in my mind always in terms of a baseline 200ASA and 1/200th second shutter speed. So I judge ambient lighting in terms of 'f-stop': f22, f16, f11, f8..down to the theoretical 'f1' and beyond into imaginary '-f1', '-f1.4' etc. You can practise this in your mind anywhere you go, without a camera: I'm in a darkened room partially lit by distant window light, thirty minutes after sunset, and I estimate the light is three to four stops below f1 (at 200asa, 1/200th second). So I compute the shutter speed for say f4 (max aperture or desired DOF of my lens), and camera 1600ISO, (~'800' ASA in actuality). With a lot of experimenting and practise it becomes reliable and you can always bracket exposures. 

Its empowering also to learn how to fill and bounce flash manually, (learn  to use your flash's 'guide number', learn to judge distances, learn how  materials on and near the light path absorb and reflect the light from your flash, and how filters  additionally reduce light - 'filter factor').


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## jowensphoto (Jul 30, 2014)

Britanica said:


> Hipster shooters. lol I never understood that either. People do that with everything though, not just cameras. Right now it is "cool" to be "different" so a lot of people are doing things they don't even understand to stand out more, all while blending deeper into the trendy cesspool.



Do people _really_ shoot in manual to be "cool" or "different"? Most people who shoot in manual either a) are learning to use their camera and how to control exposure or b) know how to use it and do so effectively.

I didn't realize shooting in manual was the same as proverbially jumping off the diving board into a steaming pile of ****.


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## ristretto (Jul 30, 2014)

Pav10566 said:


> Sometimes what your eye sees is not necessarily how the camera will take / shoot / record it....



That's a fundamental aspect of photography that needs to be understood. The camera can only make one, arbitrary exposure of about five stops' range. The human eye continuously adjusts to localized magnitudes of light, within a world of at least ten stops luminance in practical terms. Traditionally, photography is taking the camera's exposure on film, developing it, and manipulating the print into a picture that more closely mirrors what we saw, remembered seeing, or wish to portray.


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## robbins.photo (Jul 30, 2014)

e.rose said:


> jjd228 said:
> 
> 
> > I see a lot of people shooting in manual just so they can say "hey look at how cool I am, I shoot in manual!" Kinda like people that struggle with Linux just so they can say they don't use Windows
> ...


Ok, need some help on this one, I googled mo schtuff for dummies and came up empty.

Got like an amazon link or at least an isbn?

Lol


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## dweazel (Jul 30, 2014)

Do people really show off about being in manual?
I mean reaaally?...  

I probably would if i knew how it worked.


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## robbins.photo (Jul 30, 2014)

dweazel said:


> Do people really show off about being in manual?
> I mean reaaally?...
> 
> I probably would if i knew how it worked.


Ok, does buying a tshirt that I wear while shooting that reads real men shoot manual count as "showing off"

Lol


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## chuasam (Jul 31, 2014)

I shoot in manual because I do studio work and my camera's light meter is useless for studio flashes. 
I use Linux because that's what android is


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## snerd (Jul 31, 2014)

LOL!! I bought a shirt from Fro Knows Photo that is blue and the front says I Shoot Raw!! On the back is a caricature of Fro's nappy head. I wear it all the time when out shooting.


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## weepete (Jul 31, 2014)

I shoot in manual most of the time. I even use the dreaded spot metering mode a lot. Largely because the auto modes in my camera usually sacrifice too much of one value and I'd rather pick something else. But I rarely shoot in optimum lighting conditions and when I do I'm not adverse to using auto modes. Just gotta know when to use them.

I'm now quicker with manual than I am with auto modes though that sounds weird.


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## CAP (Jul 31, 2014)

I like Ubuntu ! and I work on Large scale data servers and they all run Linux Ubuntu 12.04 LTS and i love working with it compared to windows.


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## manaheim (Jul 31, 2014)

OMG... zombie thread, 9 pages long, and a topic that has been beaten severely to death several thousand times on the forum.


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