# Paper



## Actor (Aug 24, 2009)

What's a good B&W paper for a beginner?  Since Kodak no longer makes paper my instinct is to go with Ilford but it's so darned expensive.

 What's the difference between warmtone, cooltone and other?

My enlarger has a drawer for VC filters above the negative and what appears to be a holder for below the lens.  Below the lens doesn't sound like a good idea to me.  Comments?


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## compur (Aug 24, 2009)

Freestyle has a good selection of available papers.  Pick one you can afford
to start with (you'll go through paper faster in the beginning, less so as you
learn).  Start with RC (resin coated) type papers as they are much easier
to work with.

With B&W paper: warm tone = brownish coloration and cool or cold tone =
neutral black or slightly blue-black coloration.  Developer choice also has
an effect on this.

It's better to have filters above the enlarger lens stage.  It minimizes or
eliminates the effects of any flaws in the filter on the printed image.


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## Actor (Aug 25, 2009)

A thank you to Compur and a few more questions before I drag myself off to bed.  I perused one of the tech papers for Ilford paper and it advised against using a hardening fixer for their paper.  Is this true of all B&W papers or just Ilford?

Kentmere seems to be a less expensive brand but not the cheapest.  The cheapest in Freestyle's catalog is Arista.edu

I'm assuming that Kodak stopped producing paper since I can't find any on their web site (but I've always found their site hard to navigate).  Seems odd that they would stop producing paper but continue producing paper developer.

Should I use a paper developer produced by the same company that makes the paper or can I just use Kodak Dektol for various brands (even Ilford)?


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## ann (Aug 25, 2009)

modern papers do not need a hardening in the fix and in fact for the most common toners you don't want the hardner.

Kentmere is now made by Ilford and I believe Kodak is out sourcing the chemical side of the house. They stop making black and white paper years ago altho the warehouse may still have some, but i agree to use a paper to learn to print that is not going to be available makes no sense to me.
Kodak is till making color papers.

with regard to chemistry, it doesn't make any difference. We use LPD for example with all paper types, unless one is looking for a special effect.

Be aware that if you use cooltone paper the times are different than the standard 90sec for RC papers.

cooltone is "colder" in tones than the neutral papers and of course as has been mentioned the warm tone papers are just that, warmer.

different papers along with different developers provide a wide variety of changes in the print.

we do a class using 15 different developer/ratios with a wide variety of paper types and the results are always an eye opening experience for the students.

As you are just starting out, i would suggest sticking with one film, one paper and one set of chemicals. Bouncing around can be fun, but can also be a nightmare for learning and understanding. You need to fill the "learning bin" to become a good printer if not a master


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## Actor (Aug 26, 2009)

ann said:


> Be aware that if you use cooltone paper the times are different than the standard 90sec for RC papers.


The book I'm reading describes a procedure for coming up with your own time, albeit it takes several sheets of paper.



			
				ann said:
			
		

> As you are just starting out


I've been in a darkroom before.  I'd describe myself as a journeyman rather than a apprentice.



			
				ann said:
			
		

> i would suggest sticking with one film, one paper and one set of chemicals.


That's been my plan all along.


Film: Fomapan 100
Paper: Ilford
Developer: D-76 for film, Dektol for paper
Fixer: Kodafix for film, Ilford for paper (the only one I could find w/o hardener


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## ann (Aug 26, 2009)

the exposure times may be tested for, but the manufactor recommends the paper be developed  to completion times which for most rc papers is 90secs.

prehapes your referring to Factorial development, which one does change the development time depending on how many prints have been made and is used with some other techniques to contol contrast with graded fiber papers.

i asked if your a beginner to reinforce the plan to use one set of materials


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## Mike_E (Sep 1, 2009)

I just came across this site and thought you all might like to read it..
Paper Comparisons

enjoy.

mike


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## christopher walrath (Sep 1, 2009)

I have been printing with the Arista Premium papers this year (my first) RC VC.  For a basic paper I am very pleased with the results.  The handle contrast controls well and even print chromogenic monochrome negs such as BW400CN with little addition to general exposure times.  A great beginner paper in my opinion.  And unbeatable at the price for what it is.


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## CSR Studio (Sep 7, 2009)

My personal favorite is Oriental Seagull. They have RC and fiber. Creamy, I just love it.


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## Early (Oct 15, 2009)

Oriental Seagull still make RC graded papers.:thumbup:

I only ever used Kodak papers, and no matter what I did with the VC papers, it was no match for the tones I'd get with the graded papers.  In fact, after using the graded papers, the VC papers were just plain unacceptable to me.


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## 1986 (Oct 17, 2009)

I use Arista.edu from freestyle for my time sheets and for all my prints. When I get the print to where I want it I will switch to Ilford. The Arista is the same "recipe" as Ilford papers so the times are mostly the same. Some times I need to adjust a second or two. The Arista papers are a fantastic deal. Keeps my cost down as well (I go through a lot of paper).This might be good if you're just starting up, great quality to cost ratio and if you make a lot of prints you don't think about your pocket book so much.

I have had the pleasure of printing on Agfa from my friends dwindling stock pile. Too bad they don't make paper anymore....


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