# Settings for D90 (fast moving sport)



## igloopants

I have a Nikon D90 (18-55 and 55-200DX VR).

I took some pictures of sport (bball game) and most of them are blurry..

Is it best to use manual mode? And what settings would I have everything on?


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## Dominantly

Maybe use Sport mode?


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## igloopants

I tried that, but sport mode just makes 1 point of focus instead of the 11..

Still blurry..


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## Atlas77

Shutter Priority? (S)


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## igloopants

Is manual mode with certain settings not the best way to go then?


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## Eco

Try setting your aperture to a low number and then playing with your shutter speed.  If you can get enough light into your camera you can have a fast shutter speed that will stop the blur.

Edit:  Looking at some of my old ones my settings were:

Aperture: 4.5 (best I could do with with the lens).

Shutter speed:  1/100 (IMO not fast enough but the lighting sucked)


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## igloopants

Is there an exact ideal setting I can use?


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## Dominantly

Not really..

Shoot in Shutter Priority and set the shutter for the speed that will freeze the sport you are shooting......
Use the lowest ISO you can, but adjust where necessary to keep the exposure balanced.
For control of depth of field and shutter, you will need to be in manual. Then it's just a case of dialing it in. Give priority to your shutter, then bring your aperture to where you want it for DOF, then fine tune with your ISO and exposure compensation. Once it's set you should be good to go if you keep the same light.


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## gsgary

For this sort of sport you always use aperture priority if your not used to using manual, open your aperture as wide as possible (smallest number) and   at iso3200 and you will get the fastest shutter speed possible for the given aperture but i don't think your lenses will be fast enough, setting it to shutter priority to a given speed to stop motion with your lenses will give you underexposed images


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## KmH

+1 ^ ^ ^ ^ ^ ^ ^. So was "bball" basketball or baseball?

You'll also need to set up your auto focus. Start with AF-C.

I also recommend you move the AF function from the shutter release button to the AE-L/AF-L button on the back of the camera (see your users manual AF-On).


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## hankejp

I'm thinking those lenses are too slow.  I try shooting Gymnastics with a crappy slow lens.  I have to shoot NEF, ISO 3200 and a shutter speed of down to around 1/160.  Too slow.  I then have to go into CS3 and increase the Exposure to brighten it up.

I would think the same thing would need to be done with Bball.

A fast 2.8 lens would be ideal.


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## gsgary

hankejp said:


> I'm thinking those lenses are too slow.  I try shooting Gymnastics with a crappy slow lens.  I have to shoot NEF, ISO 3200 and a shutter speed of down to around 1/160.  Too slow.  I then have to go into CS3 and increase the Exposure to brighten it up.
> 
> I would think the same thing would need to be done with Bball.
> 
> A fast 2.8 lens would be ideal.



85mm F1.8 if you can get near enough


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## robdavis305

Shutter priority, fast shutter speed will freeze the action.


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## kundalini

KmH said:


> So was "bball" basketball or baseball?.


 I'm guessing this time of year it would be basketball.

Those lenses will not be fast enough for indoor sports.  Your only option is to crank the ISO up and add some +EV....... or open up your wallet.


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## gsgary

robdavis305 said:


> Shutter priority, fast shutter speed will freeze the action.



And give you underexposed images because his lenses are not fast enough, aperture priority is the way to go if you are not confident with manual, i have been shooting sports for years


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## igloopants

What lens should I be looking at getting to shoot sport then?

The body can handle it? It's just that I need a better lens?


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## keith foster

Yes, to really freeze action with indoor sports in typical gyms and get high quality shots you will need to either get a faster lens(f2.8) or figure a way to add light.
Here is a link to one way to add light:

Strobist: On Assignment: Speedlighting a College Gym


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## igloopants

What lens would you suggest?


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## jdag

igloopants said:


> What lens would you suggest?



There are a number of lenses (prime vs. zoom, Nikon vs. 3rd party).  Here are some examples and approximate costs...

Nikon 35mm f/1.8 AF-S ($200)
Nikon 50mm f/1.8 AF-D ($125)
Sigma 70-200 f/2.8 HSM ($800)
Nikon 80-200 f/2.8 AF-D ($1,100)

Just a few examples, there are many, many more options.  What is your budget?


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## igloopants

Well for starters my currency is AUD.

I don't really have any budget - I just work out what I need and start saving =P


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## jdag

igloopants said:


> Well for starters my currency is AUD.
> 
> I don't really have any budget - I just work out what I need and start saving =P



The key to my suggested lenses in my above post is "speed".

The zooms I listed are f/2.8 constant aperture (meaning that they can be opened up to a wide f/2.8 at any point in the zoom range).

The primes I listed are both f/1.8, so even more capable in low light situations.  Of course, you give up zooming ability with primes.

Again, I listed just 4 of the options.  There are a ton of others that range from $100 to several thousand.

I love my 80-200 f/2.8 AF-D and it is nearly always on my camera.


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## hankejp

I have heard MANY great things about the 80-200 2.8

I've also heard to get the 2 ring and not the push/pull 80-200.

That lens is on my wish list amongst the many others on that list.


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