# Speedlight vs. Monolight and Light Modifiers



## curly (Jan 25, 2015)

Hi all,

I am new to the topic of off-camera flash. I currently own a Neewer VK750 II i-TTL speedlight with my Nikon D7000. I am wanting to learn how to do off-camera flash and be able to modify the light properly.

My question is, what are the differences of using a speedlight vs. a monolight, other than overall output? Is one better for simple portraiture of 1 or 2 subjects? Does it depend more on the location (indoors, outdoors) as to which one to use?

I had my eye on the Flashpoint 320m to add to my collection next, but would like to learn to use my current lighting gear in some portrait situations.

Obviously, the speedlight might be more convenient for me to use outdoors without the need to buy a power pack. With my speedlight, which light modifiers would you recommend for portrait photography, both indoors and outdoors? Should I get a softbox, umbrella, both, or something that could serve a dual purpose? Other options?


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## Vtec44 (Jan 25, 2015)

On top of my head, the differences are mainly power output, recycle time, sync speed, TTL oh and weight.  I have the Flashpoint Rovelight 600ws that has an internal battery and will support HSS but no TTL.  It's basically a really heavy manual speed light


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## tirediron (Jan 26, 2015)

As James mentioned, the main difference is in terms of light output, recycle time, etc.  Other differences are:  Most monolights don't support TTL (Unless you spend a LOT of $$), but they do support a wide range of modifiers and light-shaping devices.  Speedlights also lack modeling lights which can be beneficial, especially when first starting out, for planning your lighting. 

You can do some great speedlight portraits indoors, or in shade, but most speedlights lack the power to knock down full sun.  As for modifiers, start with the basics:  Two ~30" convertible umbrellas.


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## Scatterbrained (Jan 26, 2015)

Light spread, studio strobes are typically "bare bulb", offering an even spread of light all the way around while most speedlights project a rectangular beam of light.   This will effect the evenness of light distribution in a modifier.     This comes into play even more when using an unmodified light.  

Modeling lights.   When working in a studio environment it's much easier to set up your lights if you can actually see what they are doing.    It's a lot easier to watch the shadows change as you move your light than it is to: move the light, take a shot, chimp, adjust, shoot, chimp, adjust, etc.   

POWWW_AARRRRGGG!!!!!!!!!!!   Sure, we've seen an uptick in powerful, bare bulb speedlight style lights, but if you aren't chasing a bride around every Saturday they may not be worth the extra money or compromises the designs require.  A proper studio strobe will give you tons of power for the money.  

Studio strobes recycle quickly and you don't have to worry about the battery going dead, or the unit going to "sleep".    

You don't need any special brackets to mount a strobe onto a lightstand.  Because they were made for it, unlike speedlights.  . . . and you don't need any special brackets to mount the modifiers either.   




For portrait work I'd recommend a studio strobe or 5.  For event work a speedlight or three, and possible some triggers if you want to get fancy.    Mastering bounced flash techniques will be very beneficial.      For light, on the go outdoor portrait work you'd be well served to carry a large, 5-1 folding reflector in your bag.     You can get very good light just bouncing some sun at the subject  with a reflector.     You can also get a nano stand and a small softbox for the speedlight to have a very compact, mobile portrait set up.


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## Big Mike (Jan 26, 2015)

It sounds like you understand the main differences, which are pretty strait forward. 

A studio strobe runs on AC power (or a battery pack) while a hotshoe flash runs on AA batteries (or a battery pack).   This is obviously a considerable difference because working with AC powered lights give you unlimited shots and quick recycle times, but requires you to be plugged in.  Great for in a studio setting, but if you want to be mobile, then it's a PITA.  A battery pack can allow you to be more mobile with a studio strobe, but it carries some of the inherent limitations of working from a battery. 

As mentioned, another main difference is the amount of power/light that you'll get. 

A good hotshoe flash, on it's own, can just about match the light (on a subject) that you might get from a modest studio light with standard dish & umbrella. 

A flash can do this, because it's flash head is designed to put all it's light into a beam, especially if you zoom the flash head. 

The difference in power starts to become a lot more noticeable when you add a modifier to the hotshoe flash.  When you diffuse the beam from the flash, you find that the amount of light on the subject no longer compares to the light that you would get from a typical monolight. 

So if you can use hotshoe flashes on their own, without having to add modifiers to soften the light, then they give you lots of light.  They would, of course, give you a rather 'hard' light, but sometimes, the benefits (small size, AA batteries, portability) can outweigh the negatives. 

But if you are thinking of creating very soft light (typically for portraits), then studio strobes give you more power though an umbrella or softbox, and that power allows you more freedom in where you can position your lights and more options in terms of the balance with your ambient exposure. 

The key to deciding and using either option, comes down to knowledge.  If you understand how light works, you can probably get great results with either.  And in that case, you may make your decision based on the logistics of using either system.

For example, I have both and I might choose one or the other based on the shoot that I'm doing that day.  If I want to pack smaller and be more mobile, then I'll probably choose the flashes.  If I'm going to be near a power source (usually indoors) then I'll consider the studio lights. 

But if I know that I really need a lot of light power while outside, and I want to use a large modifier to soften the light, then I'll choose the studio lights with the battery pack....but when I choose this, I know that it will require me to haul more/heavier gear and I'll take that into account.


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## astroNikon (Jan 26, 2015)

I've been down this road.

What I've learned is that it's good to have at least one OEM (or whatever) speedlight for those times your chasing someone around.

If you have the space, and know the (lack of) portability of a strobe (you can add batteries, etc) vs speedlight, I'd get speedlights. 
Strobes - The modeling lamp feature is the main "visual" immediate improvement in understanding light and shadows.  Then the shapes and sizes of modifiers are the main advantage.  

Initially you may just use small modifiers, umbrelas, brolly's etc.
As you grow you'll think you can use a large modifier with 2 or 4 speedlights with a mega-expensive bracket, then you think of the cost of those speedlight, bracket and batteries and think differently.

So if you are using a "home studio" I would go with Strobes.  Don't forget you need to space to store the equipment if not left up/

If you need super portability then speedlights.

Portability with bulk (and using outside) then back to strobes.

So I think I'm on page with everyone else here.


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## curly (Jan 26, 2015)

Thanks everyone for your input. I purchased a stand, swivel, and 45" convertible umbrella (Impact brand from B&H) to experiment with since I already own a speedlight. I will experiment with this equipment and once I feel comfortable with this small light setup, I may go for a studio monolight and/or additional light modifiers.

For now, I like the idea of portability since I don't really have space for indoor portraits yet. I will test this setup in both outdoor (really interested in doing some portraits around dusk) and indoor headshots if I can.


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## curly (Feb 1, 2015)

Got my umbrella and stand in and began experimenting with it. Is it normal for the umbrella swivel to make indentations in the umbrella shaft or am I tightening the screw too tight?


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## Vtec44 (Feb 1, 2015)

It's common.  I put a small piece of rubber at the end of the screw.


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## kkendall (Feb 5, 2016)

i have heard of some people tapping in a pencil or object of similiar size in the end of the umbrella shaft


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