# Pulling FP4?



## Alexandra (Jun 20, 2006)

I'm having some more spare time now and I'll spend most of it in the darkroom. So I have quite a few questions I've been asking myself for a while.

I'm sort of tired of grain. I've been looking for ISO 50 films, but the only way to get some seems to be ordering from the UK.
However, I thought about maybe pull-processing my Ilford FP4 rolls, which is rated ISO 125.

I've been mostly pushing film and the only time I actually pulled, it was iso800 accidentally shot at 400 settings. So I don't know how the FP4 might respond.

My concrete question is: if I pull the fp4 to approximately iso 50, will the grain be tighter or is it just a waste of time and film?
Since it's already pretty slow film, will it get awfully darker?

Also, I assume a fine grain developer would be preferable. But is it _imperative_ to rather good results?
The shop I buy chems from only has Ilfosol S.


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## stingray (Jun 20, 2006)

not sure about your specific question... but surely a shop selling FP4 and chemistry would have a roll or two of Pan F+ 50 lying around?
As far as II know the grain on FP4 is pretty good... how big are you enlarging them? There is only so much 35mm can do.


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## Alexandra (Jun 21, 2006)

I'll probably enlarge them to 8x10, or at least nothing bigger...

I asked the salesperson at the shop yesterday. they said they'll maybe have some pan f+ 50 by the end of July.  "Maybe", in their case, means don't count on it


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## Torus34 (Jun 21, 2006)

I use bulk-loaded Pan F at ISO 50 and process 15 min @ 20C with 30 sec. agitation in straight Microdol - not the 1:3 dilution. Grain is not a problem in 8x10's. I mix up a gallon of Microdol and transfer it to 7 'Snapple' bottles. I use a 2 reel tank. Each bottle soups 2 25 exp. lengths of film. The developer is used once, then discarded. I also mix, bottle off and use Kodak fixer the same way. I gal. developer and 1 gal. fixer = 14 rolls of film.


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## stingray (Jun 21, 2006)

surely Torus unless you're pro you don't need to and can't really justifying only using 1:3 dilution DEV once... I used to do that with Tmax Dev and realised what a shocking waste it was half way through the bottle... that's how we were taught at school but really, if sealed properly the stuff keeps for quite a few rolls of film per soup... and fixer is even more long lasting i believe, losing incredibly little each use and  if sealed air tight, barely anything degrades.


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## Torus34 (Jun 21, 2006)

Stingray;

I don't use it at 1:3, but straight, as stated.  1 gallon equals 7 'Snapple' bottles.  Works out to about $US1/roll, including fixer.  That in turn is $0.04/negative.  I'd rather not be bothered with replenishers or increasing development times with additional rolls.

This procedure provides an absolutely rock-steady development, roll after roll after roll.  I've locked my initial exposure and enlarger printing, including the contact print, to the negatives which result.  This in turn leads to very few surprises.  I am reasonably certain of the characteristics of the final print at the moment of film exposure.


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## Philip Weir (Jun 22, 2006)

Hi "Alexandra" FP4 is a fine grain film, but the choice of developer is critical. I used for 30-40 years ID11 as it is terrific developer and I normally put through about 10 rolls per day. May I suggest checking on "Microdol"  "Microphen" or similar fine grain developers. The problem these days is, if you were to ask someone in a camera shop, they may give you an answer, but as digital is the "flavour of the month" and probably will be from now on, their knowledge is somewhat limited.  The above answers are somewhat helpful, and probably the best way to go. Listen to others who are doing it, especially Torus34, he/she seems to have his/her act together.


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## stingray (Jun 22, 2006)

> This procedure provides an absolutely rock-steady development, roll after roll after roll. I've locked my initial exposure and enlarger printing, including the contact print, to the negatives which result. This in turn leads to very few surprises. I am reasonably certain of the characteristics of the final print at the moment of film exposure.


Ah fair enough. I'm still very much learning and should probably let others answer questions and learn from them rather than contribute when I obviously don't have the whole picture, so to speak.


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## Torus34 (Jun 22, 2006)

Stingray:

Learning is a life-long process. And maturity is a journey, not a destination. Almost everyone you run into has something to teach.

You have things to teach others, too. You've just reminded me that being willing to listen is as important as speaking. I have a habit of running my mouth before I turn on my ears.

It's important that I read my own motto from time to time.

Thank you.


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## niccig (Jun 24, 2006)

Alexandra - if you don't want to order from the UK (b/c of the shipping, I assume?), the NY-based stores www.bhphotovideo.com and www.adorama.com both sell Ilford Pan F.  B&H sells ISO 25 Rollei Pan, even, but I don't know anything about the quality of that film, as I've never shot with it before.


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## Alexandra (Jun 25, 2006)

niccig said:
			
		

> Alexandra - if you don't want to order from the UK (b/c of the shipping, I assume?), the NY-based stores www.bhphotovideo.com and www.adorama.com both sell Ilford Pan F. B&H sells ISO 25 Rollei Pan, even, but I don't know anything about the quality of that film, as I've never shot with it before.


Nice, thanks for the info 
I'm still looking for potential sources here in Mtl, but I'll use those you recommended as last resort since my actual searching is going nowhere so far


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