# Help With Lights



## mangorockfish (May 4, 2018)

I'm wanting to set up a small studio "area" in my wife's wedding venue to do shots of the grandkids and their moms and dads like on Sunday afternoon when they come over.  Just an impromptu portrait shoot so the lighting equipment has to be portable because I'll have to take it down when they leave.
I'm going to be shooting with my Mamiya 645 and a Nikon SB26 speed light and an umbrella or softbox or a couple of floods and umbrellas.  I'm not really worried about the results from the floods, because I will be able to see how the light falls on the subject.  If I use the little flash and a softbox, how can I tell what my results will be without waiting two weeks or longer for the film to be returned from the processor?  Could I set one of the floods up as a type of modeling light?  I have a Minolta IVF light meter also.  
Any and all help will be appreciated.  I would also welcome advice on a small lighting set-up anyone would recommend for this situation.  Thanks


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## Derrel (May 4, 2018)

A "real" yet inexpensive studio-type monolight flash, like a $109 Flashpoint from Adorama, would solve the issue. For people who want good results,and good lighting,m but who do not have a LARGE amount of practice, there is simply nothing better than having a constantly-on modeling light that shows the photographer, how and where the light is impacting the subjects. The issue is that a few inches in main light placement can make the difference between a good photo, and one that is simply bad, or unflattering. The more years' worth of experience one has,m the easier it is to work "blind", using a speedlight and an umbrella. The less experience on has, the more the modeling light helps.

Seriously...I recommend the new Flashpoint monolights from Adorama, the R-series 300 Watt-second model at $109 being the best value, since it uses the easily-available Bowens S-type accessory fitting. The older 320M was a great value, but the "Flashpoint" fitting (as I understand it t_he OLD Photogenic_(?) fitting that's long been discontinued) was a limiting factor in buying accessories from many manufacturers.


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## mangorockfish (May 4, 2018)

OK, sounds good.  I've looked at the R series when you recommended them somewhere else.  Which umbrella or softbox, what size and brand would you suggest?
  I hope you don't mind all these questions as I have no experience in this.  Anyone else can join in also.  Thanks


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## Derrel (May 5, 2018)

I think the Steve Kaeser enterprises 40 or 43 inch umbrella box is a good one. The monolight goes inside, and it drawstrings closed. Photoflex make some very nice umbrellas as well   And I think the convertible umbrella is an excellent choice. Again 40 to 43 inches is a very good size for most uses.


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## smoke665 (May 5, 2018)

mangorockfish said:


> If I use the little flash and a softbox, how can I tell what my results will be without waiting two weeks or longer for the film to be returned from the processor? Could I set one of the floods up as a type of modeling light?



LED flashlights or if you're into DYI https://www.diyphotography.net/using-a-double-flash-bracket-to-add-modeling-light-to-your-setup/ or as Derrel suggested


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## mangorockfish (May 6, 2018)

Would the reflective type or shoot-through boxes/umbrellas work better and and how tall of stands would be better?  also, will I need a transmitter or sync cord to operate the flash?Thanks


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## Derrel (May 6, 2018)

mangorockfish said:


> Would the reflective type or shoot-through boxes/umbrellas work better and and how tall of stands would be better?  also, will I need a transmitter or sync cord to operate the flash?Thanks


A 9 foot tall stand is nice, but a seven footer would be OK too.  Almost any monolight will have an optical slave triggering option, which can use a small low powered flash pop from the camera to trigger the big flash. Basically any mono light will come with its own synchronization cord. A trigger is an option and it's not too expensive these days, but a trigger is not absolutely necessary if you use the slave or the sync cord. Buy whatever type of soft box or umbrella or umbrella box that you think you'd like, there is not that much difference between the majority of smaller sources in this size of 40 to 43 inches


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## Derrel (May 6, 2018)

When it comes to shoot through umbrellas, they tend to spell a lot of light all over the room, which can make one light act like a fill light and a main light. Reflecting umbrellas on the other hand throw their light only in the forward direction, so they are in many ways easier to control. The same thing for the umbrella box, with the reflecting umbrella, and white transparent diffusion  panel: easy to control light.


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## smoke665 (May 6, 2018)

mangorockfish said:


> Would the reflective type or shoot-through boxes/umbrellas work better a



I've used shoot through but I'm not a fan. Part of it has to do with location. As Darrel said light goes every where. It's far easier to control direction and intensity with a reflective. White lined will give you a softer light, while silver lined will give you slightly harder. I've also found a silver reflective helpful when there's a lot of red in a subjects face.


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## mangorockfish (May 8, 2018)

Thank you Derrel and Smoke you guys have been a wealth of info.  I'm going with the Flashpoint R-2, and a reflective umbrella softbox like Derrel recommended.  I have a couple of Smith-Victor stands that are 7' I think that are new that I've had for ages, just never used them.  Anyway, guys thanks a lot and when I do order this I'll probably be bugging you guys some more.


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## Derrel (May 8, 2018)

Here are the Steve Kaeser Enterprises PBL umbrella boxes...a set of two 40-inch umbrella boxes, for $31.59 with free shipping!!! https://www.amazon.com/PBL-Reflecti...8&qid=1525822745&sr=1-4&keywords=steve+kaeser

I have used these,from this vendor, since 2007. I have quite a few of 'em!


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