# Which camera to buy for large oil murals?



## Silverknite (Jul 19, 2017)

hey everyone, I'm an oil painter somewhat in need of some great advice on to what camera to buy to photograph my murals.

My paintings are 40"x60" to three times the size.

So far I've been using a 14 mp camera and iPad Pro camera with okay results.

I'm not really looking to spend a thousand bucks on a camera but if you give me great reasons to I might consider it.   I can show some of my work if it will give you a better idea on which one to recommend.


I'm considering getting a canon pro 1000 and 2000 so What I do need it primarily is for making high quality prints.



Thanks!


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## 480sparky (Jul 19, 2017)

What is you your require of the images?  Just to post on websites & email? Enlarge to original size?  Publish?


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## Light Guru (Jul 19, 2017)

This is no such thing as a camera designed just for photographing paintings.

The thing that is going to make the biggest difference in the photos is going to be good lighting.


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## Silverknite (Jul 19, 2017)

480sparky said:


> What is you your require of the images?  Just to post on websites & email? Enlarge to original size?  Publish?



And making High quality prints.


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## jcdeboever (Jul 19, 2017)

A good tripod so you can make sure it's plum to the painting. Wired or wireless shutter release. White balance cards to ensure proper color. I would make sure you have those things, try them with your 14mp camera. If your still not satisfied with the quality of the image, we could go from there. That is my opinion. 

If you are planning to build a portfolio to present to potential dealers, you may want to consider hiring a professional. 

If those are not viable options, then you may want to consider a used Sony A7 first generation. You can get them pretty reasonable and the full frame image quality is excellent for what your intended use is. A 50mm prime lens ( used Minolta Maxxum AF 50mm f/1.4) would be a solid choice to minimize distortion and offer excellent micro contrast, color saturation, and sharpness.


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## 480sparky (Jul 19, 2017)

Just about any mid-range / prosumer camera will do. I'd suggest a short prime telephoto to keep distortion to a minimum.  

And you'll need to learn lighting, which is a whole other animal.


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## KmH (Jul 19, 2017)

Any sufficiently advanced technology is indistinguishable from magic.  - Arthur C. Clarke

What 14 MP camera do you have?
How big do you want to print?
If you want to print big, say larger than 24 x 36, you'll want much more image resolution than 14 MP. In fact, you may want to consider a medium format camera in the 50 MP range - if you can afford such.
Will you make the prints or will you have a print lab make the prints?
High quality prints (often referred to as Gicleé prints) are made on inkjet printers that use 12 or more ink colors.

It's mostly about the lighting and the lens used rather than the camera.
The ipad pro lacks the controls/settings to consistently make high quality images that can subsequently be printed large.
You will want to make the image files as Raw files, not JPEGs, because you'll need the bit depth Raw files have.

In addition to setting up and controlling the lighting you will need to do the post production editing needed to prepare a digital file for printing.
Real World Image Sharpening with Adobe Photoshop, Camera Raw, and Lightroom (2nd Edition)
The Digital Negative: Raw Image Processing in Lightroom, Camera Raw, and Photoshop (2nd Edition)
The Digital Print: Preparing Images in Lightroom and Photoshop for Printing


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## benhasajeep (Jul 19, 2017)

It depends on your print size really.  And how well your murals are lit.

For printing you need at least 150-180 pixels per inch for decent prints.  This is a little better than the human eye can resolve.  Better prints have 240 per inch.  300 per inch is max you need.  Above that your wasting ink and time.  Also depends on what your printing on.  Pictures on couputers are good at about 72.  100 is probably lowest you can go on something like canvas and have good results.

So, a 14mp camera will produce a 300 pixel print 11x14.  16x20 with same camera would get you about 209 pixels an inch.  You could go 20x30 but would be right at 152 pixels per inch. 

Like others have said, tripod and lighting would be as important as the camera and lens.  Lens will also depend on how much room you have to take the picture.  If your murals are in rooms of houses for example.  You will need a wide angle lens.  If its the wall of a building and you have 50' to back up then a long lens can be used.

The pro 1000 is a 17" printer and the pro 2000 is a 24" printer.  Most new less expensive DSLR's are in the 18-24mp range.  They would be plenty for the Pro 2000 printer.  I think right now Nikon has the best lower cost cameras for what you pay.  DXO labs test cameras and right now Nikon entry level cameras test higher than Canon, and are less expensive.  Now there are other cameras that also test better but higher in price as well.  Nikons D3400 would be plenty for you megapixel wise.  Has good ratings for color gamut, good dymanic range and ok ISO performance (ok, but is better than other entry level cameras).  Now lighting would be the biggest factor for you I think.  If there is decent light where your murals are.  You just need a tripod.  But if some are in dark areas you will need some kind of lighting as well.  It doesn't have to be flash.  It could be car lights or flash lights for all it matters.  But what does matter is the lights need to be the same kind!  And produce an even light across the whole mural.


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## Silverknite (Jul 19, 2017)

Thanks guys, I'll definitely have to reread some of your responses... the pieces I have on my website so far I've photographed with a 14mp camera and tripod...I had to photograph all of them in two sections and pieced them together in cs6

So I'm looking at the Nikon D3400 24mp DSLR camera for 400$-$636


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## Silverknite (Jul 19, 2017)

KmH said:


> Any sufficiently advanced technology is indistinguishable from magic.  - Arthur C. Clarke
> 
> What 14 MP camera do you have?
> How big do you want to print?
> ...




Sony Cyber-Shot Lens G

How big? well considering I will be using  a website to reproduce the prints in the meantime.. Im thinking at least 25% larger than the original size of the original paintings which are...36x70, 40x70, 44x78 and 56x70

These are the three printers I have in mind again...

(I may skip the 1000 and just go for the 2000)
Amazon.com: Canon imagePROGRAF PRO-1000 Professional Photographic Inkjet Printer, 17 x 22-Inches: Electronics

Amazon.com: Canon PRO-2000 imagePROGRAF Printer: Electronics

Amazon.com: Canon imagePROGRAF PRO-4000 44" Professional Photographic Large-Format Inkjet Printer: Electronics


Thank you for the extra info by the way.


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## benhasajeep (Jul 20, 2017)

Ok, all your murals are on canvas?  How large of an area do you use to photograph?  On a D3400 camera a 30mm lens is considered a standard lens.  You will get about a 40 degree angle of view.  A 20mm lens on the D3400 will give you about a 55 degree angle of view.  And a 15mm lens on the D3400 will give you about a 74 degree angle of view.  It's better to use a long lens as possible.  So if you can stand back some and use a long lens thats best.

Depending on where you take the picture you may not need lighting.  You can adjust the camera for different type of artificial lights you already have.  If your location has the same bulbs in every light (same color / K temperatures).  For example 3,200k or 2,500k color temp light bulbs.  You can adjust white balance in the camera for those bulbs.  That's if the lights are consistent and provide full coverage of your work.  Or of course if you have a studio with large windows and get very good morning or late afternoon light.  That would be good too.


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## KmH (Jul 20, 2017)

To learn how to effectively light your paintings for making photos get Light Science & Magic: An Introduction to Photographic Lighting


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## Silverknite (Jul 20, 2017)

benhasajeep said:


> Ok, all your murals are on canvas?  How large of an area do you use to photograph?  On a D3400 camera a 30mm lens is considered a standard lens.  You will get about a 40 degree angle of view.  A 20mm lens on the D3400 will give you about a 55 degree angle of view.  And a 15mm lens on the D3400 will give you about a 74 degree angle of view.  It's better to use a long lens as possible.  So if you can stand back some and use a long lens thats best.
> 
> Depending on where you take the picture you may not need lighting.  You can adjust the camera for different type of artificial lights you already have.  If your location has the same bulbs in every light (same color / K temperatures).  For example 3,200k or 2,500k color temp light bulbs.  You can adjust white balance in the camera for those bulbs.  That's if the lights are consistent and provide full coverage of your work.  Or of course if you have a studio with large windows and get very good morning or late afternoon light.  That would be good too.




Yes all the paintings are on canvas.  The area is basically the size of a large living room so I do get very good natural lighting.   What I do need suggestions on is what lights to get for the paintings that have varnish because they tend to produce reflections and are nearly impossible to photograph without any reflections showing.

These are the ones I'm looking at so far.. thoughts and suggestions?

Amazon.com : Nikon D3400 DSLR Camera with AF-P DX 18-55mm Lens (Black), + Flash + SLR Photo Bag + Batteries and Charger + Remote + 48GB Card Bundle : Electronics

It might not be the longest lens but I'm sure it will be sufficient considering I have the space to place the painting far enough from the tripod and camera...if you know of a better alternative than this lens Id really appreciate it if you send me links from amazon. 

Amazon.com : Nikon AF-S DX NIKKOR 35mm f/1.8G Lens with Auto Focus for Nikon DSLR Cameras : Camera Lenses : Camera & Photo

Thank you very much!


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## Silverknite (Jul 20, 2017)

KmH said:


> To learn how to effectively light your paintings for making photos get Light Science & Magic: An Introduction to Photographic Lighting



Thank you.


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## 480sparky (Jul 20, 2017)

Silverknite said:


> .......... The area is basically the size of a large living room so I do get very good natural lighting.   What I do need suggestions on is what lights to get for the paintings that have varnish because they tend to produce reflections and are nearly impossible to photograph without any reflections showing...............



I'd go with forgoing the natural lighting and use artificial lighting with polarizers, with an opposing polirizer filter on the camera.


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## benhasajeep (Jul 20, 2017)

Silverknite said:


> benhasajeep said:
> 
> 
> > Ok, all your murals are on canvas?  How large of an area do you use to photograph?  On a D3400 camera a 30mm lens is considered a standard lens.  You will get about a 40 degree angle of view.  A 20mm lens on the D3400 will give you about a 55 degree angle of view.  And a 15mm lens on the D3400 will give you about a 74 degree angle of view.  It's better to use a long lens as possible.  So if you can stand back some and use a long lens thats best.
> ...



Skip that bundle!!!!!  They take out Nikon items and give you cheap junky knock off items (battery / charger for one, probably cables and software)!!!  The only thing good in the kit is the camera and lens.  Just buy the camera and its kit lens!  I think $496 from AMAZON.  Not a third party seller on Amazon.  Sometimes they even message you saying your buying this kit, such and such is not that good would you like to upgrade this or that for $xxx more?  And then they don't even sell you good stuff, but more off brand stuff.

The 35mm F1.8 lens is good choice.


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## Silverknite (Jul 20, 2017)

jcdeboever said:


> A good tripod so you can make sure it's plum to the painting. Wired or wireless shutter release. White balance cards to ensure proper color. I would make sure you have those things, try them with your 14mp camera. If your still not satisfied with the quality of the image, we could go from there. That is my opinion.
> 
> If you are planning to build a portfolio to present to potential dealers, you may want to consider hiring a professional.
> 
> If those are not viable options, then you may want to consider a used Sony A7 first generation. You can get them pretty reasonable and the full frame image quality is excellent for what your intended use is. A 50mm prime lens ( used Minolta Maxxum AF 50mm f/1.4) would be a solid choice to minimize distortion and offer excellent micro contrast, color saturation, and sharpness.




Thanks for the tip about the white balance cards, I had no idea what they were until I looked them up on amazon.   Looks they come with an Instruction Guide on how to use them.   Phew!

The thing is my paintings have quite a bit of detail which means  I would have to photograph each painting in sections of 6 or more to get everything in the final image for the prints.   That's something I don't think I'm looking forward to getting into haha  considering how much work it was to photograph each painting in two halves and putting them together in photoshop!!


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## benhasajeep (Jul 20, 2017)

Silverknite said:


> These are the ones I'm looking at so far.. thoughts and suggestions?
> 
> Amazon.com : Nikon D3400 DSLR Camera with AF-P DX 18-55mm Lens (Black), + Flash + SLR Photo Bag + Batteries and Charger + Remote + 48GB Card Bundle : Electronics
> 
> ...



1 or 2 of these.  These are not the fastest now but for the price very good cards, and still quick.  For what your doing these are more than enough.  I have several for my D3300, D600.  I do have slower ones as well and do just fine.

Amazon.com: SanDisk Extreme Pro 32GB SDHC UHS-I Card (SDSDXXG-032G-GN4IN): Computers & Accessories


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## Silverknite (Jul 20, 2017)

benhasajeep said:


> Silverknite said:
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> > benhasajeep said:
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See.. now that's why I am here!   Thank you for the heads up!

Very Appreciated.


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## jcdeboever (Jul 20, 2017)

Silverknite said:


> jcdeboever said:
> 
> 
> > A good tripod so you can make sure it's plum to the painting. Wired or wireless shutter release. White balance cards to ensure proper color. I would make sure you have those things, try them with your 14mp camera. If your still not satisfied with the quality of the image, we could go from there. That is my opinion.
> ...



When I was painting, some of my pieces were as big, if not bigger. I had a professional photographer do my images. He used a Mamiya 7 with a 43mm or 80mm lens (he couldn't  recall) digitize my images for a dealer that took me on in Chicago. I ran into him at a funeral a couple months ago, I know he took only single frames but may have bracketed. We shot them in my studio that had major natural light coming in from all angles. He used some speed lights for fill in. I used to buy his binned photos by the shoe box. I didn't  know or care anything photography then. He is a self employed professional product photographer and I was lucky enough to utilize him when he was starting out.


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## Silverknite (Jul 20, 2017)

benhasajeep said:


> Silverknite said:
> 
> 
> > These are the ones I'm looking at so far.. thoughts and suggestions?
> ...




Found this Camera and Lens...correct me if I'm wrong but isn't the lens that comes with the camera a longer lens than the 30mm lens I linked you earlier? If it gives me the same results I just might spend $100 less

https://www.amazon.com/Nikon-18-55mm-3-5-5-6G-70-300mm-4-5-6-3G/dp/B01N6ERCXI/ref=sr_1_8?s=photo&ie=UTF8&qid=1500591018&sr=1-8&keywords=Nikon+D3400+DSLR+Camera&refinements=p_n_feature_two_browse-bin:10705382011,p_89:Nikon

I remember someone suggested a telephoto lens.. are there any benefits over a 30-35mm lens?  If there is please be so kind to recommend one to get?


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## benhasajeep (Jul 20, 2017)

As for lighting your going to want softboxes.  Probably 2 for your larger pieces.  The should be a good size too.  Large enough you may consider buying monolights or hotlights instead of flashes (monolights are just big flashes, hotlights are basically lights, called hot since they stay on all the time, just like leaving a table lamp on.  Large soft boxes need more light.  If your taking the pictures in your own studio and can use regular ac electric plug in lights (either hot lights or monolights).  That would be less expensive.  You would need lighting stands, softboxes and a way to trigger the monolights.  Many have an optical sensor and by firing your on camera flash they flash also (as long as sensor picks up the camera flash).  Using optical trigger you will be setting the power output on the monolights manually.  Since your using digital there is only wasted time experimenting with light power and positions of the lights.  You can also buy lights that have wireless triggering.  With the D3400 you would also need to buy a transmitter and put on the flash hot shoe.  Some of these systems are just simple triggers and you still have to set lights manually at each light.  And more expensive ones you can set remotely using the transmitter mounted to the camera.  And there is the old fashioned way and you can use wires.  And plug in an adapter on the hot shoe and run cables to the lights.  And set the lights manually.  

I myself have flashes and monolights.  I use cheaper radio triggers most of the time (have to set power at each light manually).  But have used optical.  And I have used Nikons own wireless system which is light pulses with appropriate Nikon flashes.


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## weepete (Jul 20, 2017)

if you need to stitch shots together accuratley I'd really reccomend getting a rotating base, slide and an L bracket. Look in to Nodal points (basically rotating the camera around the lens aperture). Makes stitching a breeze with minimal distorsion. I do it for panoramas and I notice the difference now in post between shots around the tripod screw and when I've used the nodal point. There's various options on the market, from RRS to Nodal Ninja or you can put together your own kit. I put my own together for £160, and while that seems like a lot of extra cash it pales in comparison to a medium format digital camera. 200mpx image...no problem! Could probably put one together for your purposes for under £100, as you won't need a leveling base or indexing rotator.

if your subject is static and using stitching you can get some fantastic detail especially with a resonably sharp lens.


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## benhasajeep (Jul 20, 2017)

Silverknite said:


> Found this Camera and Lens...correct me if I'm wrong but isn't the lens that comes with the camera a longer lens than the 30mm lens I linked you earlier? If it gives me the same results I just might spend $100 less
> 
> I remember someone suggested a telephoto lens.. are there any benefits over a 30-35mm lens?



Longer focal length lenses have a flattening effect.  And tend to have less distortions.  But you need to be farther away from the subject to get everything in the frame of the picture.  If you have a long studio you can use a long lens.  If you have a small room, your going to need a wider lens to get the whole artwork in the picture.

As for the "kit" lens and the 35mm f/1.8 lens.  The kit lens (18-55mm) will make you use about 2 full shutter speeds slower to take your pictures.   Or maybe higher ISO settings.  Or different apertures if you can't add more light.  This is where some studying comes in.  Need to learn the correlation between shutter speed, aperture, and iso settings.  It will give you a better understanding of the differences of lens settings too (aperture).  And help in purchasing lenses themselves.  Basically the 35mm f/1.8 can work in lower light situations than the kit lens can.  If - you can use the larger apertures in your pictures (lower numbers).  So, you may not need the 35mm f/1.8 especially if you used artificial lighting.  But the 35mm f/1.8 is better optically too.  Will give you a better quality picture with less distortions than the kit lens.  For $150 or so its a really good lens to have.  The kit lens is a decent do all lens.  And you can get good pictures from it.  But it's a jack of all trades lens.


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## Silverknite (Jul 20, 2017)

benhasajeep said:


> Silverknite said:
> 
> 
> > Found this Camera and Lens...correct me if I'm wrong but isn't the lens that comes with the camera a longer lens than the 30mm lens I linked you earlier? If it gives me the same results I just might spend $100 less
> ...



Guess in my case it's a bit of a no brainer and will stick with the 30mm lens for now and perhaps a 20mm in the future. 

Thanks!


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## Silverknite (Jul 20, 2017)

weepete said:


> if you need to stitch shots together accuratley I'd really reccomend getting a rotating base, slide and an L bracket. Look in to Nodal points (basically rotating the camera around the lens aperture). Makes stitching a breeze with minimal distorsion. I do it for panoramas and I notice the difference now in post between shots around the tripod screw and when I've used the nodal point. There's various options on the market, from RRS to Nodal Ninja or you can put together your own kit. I put my own together for £160, and while that seems like a lot of extra cash it pales in comparison to a medium format digital camera. 200mpx image...no problem! Could probably put one together for your purposes for under £100, as you won't need a leveling base or indexing rotator.
> 
> if your subject is static and using stitching you can get some fantastic detail especially with a resonably sharp lens.



Thank you for the info...would have come in very handy when I was taking two shots of each painting then stitching them together.  Did I say two? I meant at least 40 of each half hahah!... I will have to look into it a bit more now that I've discovered the power of forums!


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## Silverknite (Jul 20, 2017)

Amazon.com : Nikon D3400 w/ AF-P DX NIKKOR 18-55mm f/3.5-5.6G VR (Black) Accessory Bundle : Camera & Photo

Amazon.com : Nikon AF-S DX NIKKOR 35mm f/1.8G Lens with Auto Focus for Nikon DSLR Cameras : Camera Lenses : Camera & Photo

Amazon.com: SanDisk Extreme Pro 32GB SDHC UHS-I Card (SDSDXXG-032G-GN4IN): Computers & Accessories

Amazon.com : White Balance Card 18% Gray Grey Card. Use for Video, DSLR and Film. Custom Calibration Camera Checker Cards. Premium Exposure Photography Card Set. Free Ebook Included + Instruction Guide : Camera & Photo

Any other things I may need guys before I order?


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## benhasajeep (Jul 20, 2017)

I forget do you already have a decent tripod?  If so, you will have enough to get going and practice some.  You don't want to buy too much right away.  Learn some first.  And you will be better informed in your later purchases.


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## Silverknite (Jul 20, 2017)

benhasajeep said:


> I forget do you already have a decent tripod?  If so, you will have enough to get going and practice some.  You don't want to buy too much right away.  Learn some first.  And you will be better informed in your later purchases.



I have this one.

Amazon.com : Velbon T-3500 Deluxe Lightweight Photo / Video Camera Tripod : Camera & Photo

I was thinking I should probably invest in a case and lens protector.


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## benhasajeep (Jul 20, 2017)

That will do for now with inside work.  Just don't bump it. 

When you take pictures of your work, use the self timer on the camera.  That way you hitting the shutter will not shake the camera.


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## Silverknite (Jul 20, 2017)

benhasajeep said:


> That will do for now with inside work.  Just don't bump it.
> 
> When you take pictures of your work, use the self timer on the camera.  That way you hitting the shutter will not shake the camera.



It gets a bit top heavy huh...Ill try to remember that...

 I've actually had it since High School...the One good thing public education was good for haha


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## benhasajeep (Jul 20, 2017)

Silverknite said:


> benhasajeep said:
> 
> 
> > That will do for now with inside work.  Just don't bump it.
> ...



Actually the D3400 is very light.  And either of the lenses as well.  But it's a very light tripod too.   But a light camera and light tripod, a bump doesn't mean falling over disaster, but with it's total weight light.  A bump will move it and or show on the picture as shake if done during the actually picture taking.


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## Silverknite (Jul 20, 2017)

benhasajeep said:


> Silverknite said:
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> > benhasajeep said:
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Right.. by the way I'm looking  at the softboxes & monolights you mentioned.

Two of each or should one be enough?


Amazon.com : Godox 47"/120cm Umbrella Octagon Softbox Reflector with Carrying Bag for Portrait or Product Photography +SUPON USB LED free gift (120cm) : Electronics

Not sure which monolight I should go for though.

Amazon.com : NEEWER DS300 Studio Strobe Photo Flash Light with Bowens Style Mount - 300W Photography Monolight : Photographic Monolights : Camera & Photo

Amazon.com : Neewer 300W 5600K Bowens Mount Photo Studio Strobe Flash Light Monolight with Lamp Head for Studio, Location and Portrait Photography (SK300) : Camera & Photo

Ugh looks like they don't come with tripods... would you recommend a lighting kit?


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## benhasajeep (Jul 20, 2017)

Your going to want square ones.  And with your bigger murals probably 2 will be needed.

Yes, will need light stands.  They are less expensive than tripods.


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## Silverknite (Jul 20, 2017)

benhasajeep said:


> Your going to want square ones.  And with your bigger murals probably 2 will be needed.
> 
> Yes, will need light stands.  They are less expensive than tripods.





Amazon.com : StudioPRO 3000 Watt Photography Continuous Output Light - Three 20" x 28" Softbox Lighting Kit for Portrait, Photo, and Video Studio With Light Stand and Daylight Bulbs : Photographic Monolights : Camera & Photo

Are we in business?


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## Derrel (Jul 20, 2017)

Silverknite said:


> benhasajeep said:
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I woulkd pay the little bit extra and buy the Neewer SK300 monolight because it offers 20 power increments, more than the other unit offers. Finer power control increments would be nice for some things...the lower-cost unit has 8 power levels.


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## Silverknite (Jul 20, 2017)

Derrel said:


> Silverknite said:
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> > benhasajeep said:
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Now that is some very useful info I didn't have and now do 

Thank you.


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## benhasajeep (Jul 20, 2017)

Silverknite said:


> benhasajeep said:
> 
> 
> > Your going to want square ones.  And with your bigger murals probably 2 will be needed.
> ...



The continuous lights are a little more to deal with.  They can work if you have enough room.  They don't have a lot of power adjustments.  So, instead they need to be moved in and out.  I don't have any continuous lights so can' give much advice on them.  Pretty sure the buttons on the back just turn bulbs off and on.  Not sure if the soft boxes will give even illumination with bulbs turned off.

But with it being Amazon.  If they don't work, you can return them within their return period.


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## Silverknite (Jul 20, 2017)

2 Monolights
Amazon.com : Neewer 300W 5600K Bowens Mount Photo Studio Strobe Flash Light Monolight with Lamp Head for Studio, Location and Portrait Photography (SK300) : Camera & Photo

2 Softboxes
Amazon.com : Neewer 20x28 inches/50x70 centimeters Square Photography Light Tent Photo Cube Softbox for Neewer Godox 300DI 250DI 300SDI 250SDI 180W Studio Light(Softbox Only, Strobe Light and Stand Not Included) : Photographic Lighting Soft Boxes : Camera & Photo

And 2 Tripods
Amazon.com : Neewer Set of Two 9 feet/260 centimeters Photo Studio Light Stands for HTC Vive VR, Video, Portrait, and Product Photography : Camera & Photo

Now are we in Business?!!


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## Silverknite (Jul 21, 2017)

Derrel said:


> Silverknite said:
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> > benhasajeep said:
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I received the camera, monotight and softboxes today and just found out the Neweer SK300 don't have the option to stay on like the other monolights I was looking at. 

It was my bad for not seeing it was a strobe flash.


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## benhasajeep (Jul 21, 2017)

Silverknite said:


> I received the camera, monotight and softboxes today and just found out the Neweer SK300 don't have the option to stay on like the other monolights I was looking at.
> 
> It was my bad for not seeing it was a strobe flash.



Being Amazon you can send them back.  But in the long run they will probably serve you better if they last.


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## Silverknite (Jul 29, 2017)

benhasajeep said:


> Silverknite said:
> 
> 
> > I received the camera, monotight and softboxes today and just found out the Neweer SK300 don't have the option to stay on like the other monolights I was looking at.
> ...





Had a question...I was just opening up the NEF(RAW) + JPEG Fine on photoshop and just noticed something with one of the lenses I'm using.  The JPEG Fine comes out without distortion (meaning the image appears flat on the monitor and  all the RAW files have a significant bend from the lens I'm assuming....is it a setting I dont have right on the camera?

I'm currently using the 18-55mm lens.


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## benhasajeep (Jul 29, 2017)

The camera is applying some correction when it saves the file in jpeg.  With raw you use the post processing to correct.


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## Silverknite (Jul 29, 2017)

benhasajeep said:


> The camera is applying some correction when it saves the file in jpeg.  With raw you use the post processing to correct.



Thank you but I'm not familiar with how to post process images.  Could you elaborate please?


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## benhasajeep (Jul 29, 2017)

Post processing is when you work on the photos that come out of the camera.  JPEG pictures are basically processed in the camera according to its programming.  Yes, you can make changes to JPEGs.  But the camera has already done quite a bit for what it thinks (programmed) is right.

Raw files are exactly just like raw meat.  You have done nothing too it yet.  The camera gives you the raw slab.  You use photo processing program to prepare and finish it.  Depending on how you process / cook it.  Is how it comes out when your done.

I suggest you do a search on google or even youtube on raw photography.  Whole chapters in books are written on it.  But a quick youtube will give you a good start on the advantages of using RAW pictures.


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