# Light Help For Jewelry



## ellenwheels

Hi,

I use a small white nylon lightbox and a Nikon D3100.  I'm having a horrible time getting decent pics of my jewelry and other handmade items for my Etsy shop. I'm very bad with the camera but I also know that the shop lights I'm using aren't helping so I'm tackling that first.

From what I've been reading, the best results come from compact Fluorescent day light bulbs in a shop reflector.  One article recommended 40 watt but that does not seem bright enough.  Any recommendations on wattage, or other types of lighting?  

Thanks for any input. 

ETinLV


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## tirediron

The best results will come from doing this properly; ditching the light tent and getting strobed light.  Pick up a copy of the lighting bible and read it.  Then, read it again.


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## table1349

I would suggest getting this book instead.   Okay, it's the same book, but it's the newest edition.


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## smoke665

It would also help if you posted an image. Knowing exactly what you're working with as to size, reflective surfaces, etc. would help others comment more specific.


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## astroNikon

do not use compact Fluorescent lights.  

For product photography I'm actually leaning towards these type of bulbs ==> Amazon.com : Promaster LED Studio Lamp 50W/5600K E27 : Camera & Photo

I haven't tried them but would give you continuous bright lighting, vs flourescents which was very dim and possibly flicker (that the camera can see) and the CFL light projection is not focused as they are designed to provide lighting all around.


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## ellenwheels

FACTS Are Not A Liberal Conspiracy SCRABBLE Tile Pendant Necklace

That's a link to one of my items, couldn't seem to just add the picture.  

I'm just looking for a simple solution.  The photos just need to be able to show the item clearly with enough brightness and color. Not trying to make a mobile photography. Those bulbs are a tad pricey for me unfortunately.


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## Derrel

If the pictures are not bright enough, try using the camera's self-timer shutter release mode, and slowing the shutter down. At smaller f/stops like f/8 to f/13, slow shutter speeds like 1,2,3,4,5 seconds can create a nice exposure. Slooooooow speeds in the 2- to 5-second range can create very crisp, sharp photos as long as the camera is tripod-mounted, and is not jiggled in any way.

If you can, post a photo or two as an example, and you might get better advice as to what the issue is with the current set-up you have.


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## PhotoRob06

Strobes are ideal, because you really have to crank the f-stop on macro shots if you want the entire piece in focus, and that takes lots of light. 

But it really depends on the angle and the depth of field you need. For selective focus jewelry shots, I've had great luck with north facing windows, and a small white card to bounce the light back.


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## astroNikon

then as Derrel mentions
Slow down the shutter speed and use a smaller Aperture (larger number) to get more in focus in relation to Depth of Field based on your Aperture selection.
strudy Tripod (not those $25 things).
a remote release as your fingers can introduce shake to the camera 
and learn about White Balance ==> Understanding White Balance

either way a good tripod and remote release is going to cost some, though not much money to get started.


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## smoke665

ellenwheels said:


> That's a link to one of my items, couldn't seem to just add the picture.



First of all I'm assuming theses are JPEG, so reduce your image size to  1200 or less on a side. Save that image in a location you can find it. In the box here where you post replies click on the "upload file" button and follow the prompts.


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## Derrel

I looked at the necklace/pendant. It appears to me that the lens is getting some flare from the light source, which is common with many lenses that do not have a good lens hood on them, or which tend to be flarey lenses (not all that uncommon actually). My suggestions: get a good lens shade/lens hood; shield the camera's lens front from bright sources of light that are close by it, using a small piece or cardboard or something like that; move the camwera back a bit and zoom in and see if the flare level goes down; re-position the lights a bit, or block extra light from the lights themselves, so stray light does not "hit the lens in the eyeball".

Holding a piece of black-painted cardboard between trhe lens and the light source, and literally casting a shadow onto the frotn of the lens fron element, can be helpful in these types of situations. In professional commerical shooting a _compendium lens hood _can be used to get the absolute best lens performance in this kind of lighting situation.

Again--MANY lenses flare easily when bright light sources are near the front element, or when bright light rakes in at an angle toward the front element. Just as we like sunglasses when driving toward the low sun in the sky, lenses can suffer too.


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## table1349

Derrel said:


> move the *camwera* back a bit and zoom in


Dude, you have got to knock off those two joint lunch breaks.  Your spelling goes to *"pot"* after the second joint.  

Good advice though.


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## ellenwheels

The reason that I need new Lighting First, is that I am currently using shop lights that are very yellow. Also because I'm finding pictures too dark I have an additional light that I've been pointing right at the object. The shop lights themselves are pointing at the side through the lightbox. Once I get more appropriate lights, I will play with the camera settings.


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## Derrel

Pictures too yellow? White balance needs to be set to a lower rating, like 2,600 to 2,800 Degrees Kelvin.  Automatic white balance often misses the right WB point. Shoot in a manual mode, and try setting the white balance lower than you have been.


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## PhotoRob06

ellenwheels said:


> The reason that I need new Lighting First, is that I am currently using shop lights that are very yellow. Also because I'm finding pictures too dark I have an additional light that I've been pointing right at the object.



As Derek said, camera can balance to your yellow lights, even if incandescent balance isn't enough. Just increase your exposure time to make the images brighter.

That light you're pointing right at the object is flattening your image so it has little depth. If anything, try bouncing some back with a white piece of paper or something, that will keep it diffused. I can see the shadow that harsh light is making...


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## table1349

Kodak 18% gray card.  Cheap and easy to use.  Put it in the shot, take a photo and adjust your color in post processing.  

As for the settings, Derrel is correct.   Smaller aperture will give you a bit more DOF, and slower shutter speed will brighten up the shots.  Light is light, you have to understand it and learn how to use it.  Especially in situations like this.  It's not like you subjects are going anywhere or are going to move on you.


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## table1349

PhotoRob06 said:


> ellenwheels said:
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> The reason that I need new Lighting First, is that I am currently using shop lights that are very yellow. Also because I'm finding pictures too dark I have an additional light that I've been pointing right at the object.
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> As Derek said, camera can balance to your yellow lights, even if incandescent balance isn't enough. Just increase your exposure time to make the images brighter.
> 
> That light you're pointing right at the object is flattening your image so it has little depth. If anything, try bouncing some back with a white piece of paper or something, that will keep it diffused. I can see the shadow that harsh light is making...
Click to expand...

Derek?


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## PhotoRob06

[QUOTE
Derek?   


















[/QUOTE] 
L and K.. so close on the keyboard...  but miles apart in meaning.


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## table1349

PhotoRob06 said:


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> L and K.. so close on the keyboard...  but miles apart in meaning.


Not to Derek, er I mean Derrel.  You haven't been down the Derrel misspelling highway.................YET!



Yes, 911, we're gonna need an ambulance here in a few minutes.  Could you have them just sort of mosey this way a bit.  We'll let you know the condition of the victim once the assault occurs.  Thanks.


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## PhotoRob06

[QUOTE
Not to Derek, er I mean Derrel.  You haven't been down the Derrel misspelling highway.................YET!



Yes, 911, we're gonna need an ambulance here in a few minutes.  Could you have them just sort of mosey this way a bit.  We'll let you know the condition of the victim once the assault occurs.  Thanks. [/QUOTE]


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## ellenwheels

Thanks Derrel, I have tried different settings on white balance but to no avail. Of course I have no idea how to lower white balance or check the Kelvin number that you mentioned. And I haven't found a way to do it in the manual yet.


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## smoke665

ellenwheels said:


> The reason that I need new Lighting First, is that I am currently using shop lights that are very yellow. Also because I'm finding pictures too dark I have an additional light that I've been pointing right at the object. The shop lights themselves are pointing at the side through the lightbox. Once I get more appropriate lights, I will play with the camera settings.



Get two of these Philips 100W Equivalent Daylight (5000K) PAR38 Dimmable LED Flood Light Bulb-435016 - The Home Depot , make sure they are the 5k daylight bulbs and two of these 150-Watt Incandescent Clamp Light-HD-300PDQ - The Home Depot. Use a piece of white foam as a target, make that your first shot in a series, then use the eye dropper tool in LR to click on it and set the white balance, then highlight all your shots in the series. Click on the synch button > white balance. That will set all your images to the same white balance.

If you're doing JPEG's straight out of the camera, with no editing, then set your white balance to 5,000K to start, if they look ok, then you're good to go, if not adjust up or down to suit. Up will cause the image to look warmer, down will cause it to look cooler.


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## table1349

How to Use a Gray Card for Custom White Balance and Metering


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## ellenwheels

smoke665 said:


> ellenwheels said:
> 
> 
> 
> The reason that I need new Lighting First, is that I am currently using shop lights that are very yellow. Also because I'm finding pictures too dark I have an additional light that I've been pointing right at the object. The shop lights themselves are pointing at the side through the lightbox. Once I get more appropriate lights, I will play with the camera settings.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Get two of these Philips 100W Equivalent Daylight (5000K) PAR38 Dimmable LED Flood Light Bulb-435016 - The Home Depot , make sure they are the 5k daylight bulbs and two of these 150-Watt Incandescent Clamp Light-HD-300PDQ - The Home Depot. Use a piece of white foam as a target, make that your first shot in a series, then use the eye dropper tool in LR to click on it and set the white balance, then highlight all your shots in the series. Click on the synch button > white balance. That will set all your images to the same white balance.
> 
> If you're doing JPEG's straight out of the camera, with no editing, then set your white balance to 5,000K to start, if they look ok, then you're good to go, if not adjust up or down to suit. Up will cause the image to look warmer, down will cause it to look cooler.
Click to expand...

Great. Going to Home Depot this week.  The rest of the stuff you said,  no idea how to do it but I'll look at the manual once the lights are in place.  Maybe there's a you tube video that can help.  Thanks.!


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## smoke665

ellenwheels said:


> The rest of the stuff you said, no idea how to do it but I'll look at the manual once the lights are in place.



What camera brand, and model are you using?


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## ellenwheels

What about this one Par38 Led Bulbs Daylight COB Spotlight 5000k Dimmable - 18w 100watt equivalent 25degree CRI93 - E26 Ul-listed and Energy Star - - Amazon.com


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## ellenwheels

Nikon D3100


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## smoke665

ellenwheels said:


> What about this one Par38 Led Bulbs Daylight COB Spotlight 5000k Dimmable - 18w 100watt equivalent 25degree CRI93 - E26 Ul-listed and Energy Star - - Amazon.com



Be aware that LED light output is VERY marginal at best. I never had any luck at all with the cheaper ones. I've used the Phillips in a pinch. This is a sample taken with 2 of the Phillips LED's, and natural light from a window, when I was playing around one day. 


 
If you have the time and flexibility you can also move outside and use natural light. You need to decide what you want your product to look like to a potential customer. Sharp images sell product, bad ones don't. Sometimes cheap costs you sales in the long run. As others have suggested using proper lighting can improve your images. By the time you fork out $60 for lights and reflectors, for another $80 you could get a couple of speedlights ,Yongnuo  YN560-IV Speedlite YN-560IV B&H Photo Video that would work well for your application. Depending on your camera connect one with a cable, and set the other to slave, or for another $20 you could buy a couple of cheap wireless triggers. 

The other part of the equation that you seem to be overlooking entirely is the need to learn a little bit about lighting. Many others here have suggested some great resources on lighting, so before you go out buying anything, you should really do a little reading.


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## smoke665

ellenwheels said:


> Nikon D3100



I'm also assuming that you are saving as JPEG images in the camera??? If you are saving as Raw files and processing in something like LR, then leave the WB setting on the camera at automatic and use the card method I posted above to correct in LR. If you're saving as JPEG files, then adjust your white balance in camera for the lights - Adjusting White Balance Settings on a Nikon D3100 - dummies

Disclaimer: no offense intended in the suggested reading, I just find them simpler for those without a lot of knowledge on a subject.


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## ellenwheels

That looks pretty great to me.  I may try the led wit natural light.  But I've never done particularly well with natural light and I like the ability to be able to take photos of my stuff anytime of day or night.


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## ellenwheels

smoke665 said:


> ellenwheels said:
> 
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> Nikon D3100
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> I'm also assuming that you are saving as JPEG images in the camera??? If you are saving as Raw files and processing in something like LR, then leave the WB setting on the camera at automatic and use the card method I posted above to correct in LR. If you're saving as JPEG files, then adjust your white balance in camera for the lights - Adjusting White Balance Settings on a Nikon D3100 - dummies
> 
> Disclaimer: no offense intended in the suggested reading, I just find them simpler for those without a lot of knowledge on a subject.
Click to expand...


Not offended at all. Thanks


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## ellenwheels

smoke665 said:


> ellenwheels said:
> 
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> Nikon D3100
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> I'm also assuming that you are saving as JPEG images in the camera??? If you are saving as Raw files and processing in something like LR, then leave the WB setting on the camera at automatic and use the card method I posted above to correct in LR. If you're saving as JPEG files, then adjust your white balance in camera for the lights - Adjusting White Balance Settings on a Nikon D3100 - dummies
> 
> Disclaimer: no offense intended in the suggested reading, I just find them simpler for those without a lot of knowledge on a subject.
Click to expand...

I've read this article many times.
Sadly it has not helped me at all. It mentions PRE but doesn't really tell you how to do it.


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## Derrel

Here is a video showing how to set a Custom White Balance on a Nikon D3100.






SHOWS how to do it reasonably well.


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## smoke665

ellenwheels said:


> mentions PRE but doesn't really tell you how to do it.



"PRE" Is short for "PRESET". If you want to save a custom WB that you can use over and over then you would save your custom settings as a "PRESET". However at this point until you become familiar with setting the WB I wouldn't save anything as a "PRESET". Concentrate on the instructions above "PRE"


Wow @Derrel had the easiest way for you to do it!!!


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## ellenwheels

Thanks for that video.  I will be watching that and many of the videos that come up on You Tube when I search Nikon D3100.  Also thanks, I will steer clear of PRE


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