# Upgrading from a D3100



## Mike73 (Apr 21, 2018)

Hi there guys. I am new to this forum and was told this would be a fantastic place to seek advice and learn from the pros.

I started photography not too long ago and I'm currently using a Nikon D3100 with a Nikkor 50mm f1.8G lens. I do mostly general photography which is limited to shooting pictures of items such as perfume bottle, small electronic devices, drinks, sneakers etc. I don't do portraits or landscapes or wildlife photography or photography  or any large items such as cars etc.

With my D3100, I manage to get pretty decent pictures but I would like to upgrade my body to something better. My D3100 does not have an articulating screen which is a bit of a problem as I have to get down low to look through the OVF.

I am currently looking at the Nikon D5200, D5300 and D5500. I would like to know what benefits will I get in terms of picture quality? Would my pictures using my 50mm f1.8G be any better than my D3100? Are there any other camera bodies I should be looking at? Mirrorless is an option as well but I will limit it to either the Sony A6000 or A6300. Going mirrorless will cost me a bit more as the lenses aren't widely available and making the switch would mean I have to look for new lenses.


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## weepete (Apr 21, 2018)

Well TBH I'd buy https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/0415...ence+magic&dpPl=1&dpID=51uDPZ5dO-L&ref=plSrch and get a couple of speedlights and radio triggers, tripod and some modifiers first. Then probably a roll or two of seamless paper, stands and a whole lot of clamps. Then get some space and see what you can do with that first. 

The reason being that in a controlled environment like you describe you might not get a benefit from upgrading and from your description I think the better AF, low light perfromance and stuff like weather sealing may not be what you need at the end of the day. But here is the real question, why do you think you want to upgrade?


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## Mike73 (Apr 21, 2018)

weepete said:


> Well TBH I'd buy https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/0415...ence+magic&dpPl=1&dpID=51uDPZ5dO-L&ref=plSrch and get a couple of speedlights and radio triggers, tripod and some modifiers first. Then probably a roll or two of seamless paper, stands and a whole lot of clamps. Then get some space and see what you can do with that first.
> 
> The reason being that in a controlled environment like you describe you might not get a benefit from upgrading and from your description I think the better AF, low light perfromance and stuff like weather sealing may not be what you need at the end of the day. But here is the real question, why do you think you want to upgrade?


I don't shoot indoors. I mostly shoot during sunrise in well-lit conditions outdoors. I take pictures at places like skate parks, beaches etc. The reason I need an upgrade is because the D3100 does not have an articulating screen which means if I'm shooting at ground level, it's a bit of a problem. I am also planning to print my images on A2, A3 or A1 pages so I think I'll probably need those extra megapixels. The other reason is that I'm assuming I'd get a better picture quality?


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## Designer (Apr 21, 2018)

Mike73 said:


> I would like to know what benefits will I get in terms of picture quality?


Probably none that you would be able to see.  Mostly it would be things like dynamic range, focusing accuracy/speed, slight difference in processing.  Printing on those sizes will be about the same with each body, even with a difference in pixel density.  

If you need the articulating LCD, then go for the upgrade.  Otherwise, you can up your game farther by lens choices and lighting manipulation.  

Get some flashes and modifiers, try some different lenses, read more books, and practice.  If you want opinions on your photography, post on here for C&C.  That is one sure way to improve even without spending a dime.


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## Mike73 (Apr 21, 2018)

Designer said:


> Mike73 said:
> 
> 
> > I would like to know what benefits will I get in terms of picture quality?
> ...


Do you know of any sites or places I can look at to learn more about lighting? Also, which lens should I get to really see a difference in picture quality? I want something that is sharp and fast. I like to add some bokeh in my shots and I like to have a nice blur which separates the subject from other objects. For example if I place 3 objects next to each other, I would like to only have the middle object in focus with a nice blur on the other object. Here's an example I found online  (https://encrypted-tbn0.gstatic.com/...vzFOsTcubcP7CdQtk4USTyMa6epjzynzX4nOGNGCj9s3c ) How can I get a picture like that? What lens should I be looking at?


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## Derrel (Apr 21, 2018)

The "impact" of almost any picture is determined in a large part by where,exactly, the camera is placed when the photo is made. Moving the camera position around, to find the best camera placement, is a big,big,big deal. Camera placement is critical to many photos. The fact that you like to position the camera in non-standard ways is a great sign! And you're on a good tack as far as identifying what the 5xxx series Nikons offer over the 3xxx series. Easier framing and composing in low- or high-angle camera placement scenarios is something that might improve your shooting.

As far as lenses that really show "quality"...and which offer very rapid transition from the out of focus foreground to a narrow focus band and then a rapid transition to a defocused background: probably the best lower-cost choice would be the 85mm f/1.8 AF-S G lens, or at a higher price, the 70-200/2.8 or 70-200 f/4 type zoom lenses. Nikon's 50mm f/1.8 AF-S G lens is okay; I own one, and it's sharp, but if you want more-limited depth of field and more capability to do selective focus shots, a longer focal length lens is often helpful. But I'd caution you to remember this: the photographer's job is also important...you need to know how DOF works, how camera-to-subject distance is a KEY (critical!) factor in getting shallow DOF effects, and subject-to-background distance is also important. A zoom lens can be useful to vary the focal length, and in that way, gives you the ability to adjust camera-to-subject distance, in a way that a single focal length lens does not allow you to adjust. There's a balance between lens length, and being forced to stand too far back, which can lead to backgrounds that are somewhat recognizably in-focus. The bottle shot you link to is a close-range shot, and at those shorter camera-to-subjct distances, almost any lens can give that type of shallow DOF effect; at longer ranges, like 20 to 40 feet, it becomes trickier to get shallow DOF effects unless you have full command over the lens length and the camera-to-subject range that you can work within, and still get the desired framing.

As to the bottle shot: an 85mm macro lens or a 105mm macro lens would be easy to use for that type of a picture. You could also use a 70-200mm zoom lens, or a low-cost, used, discontinued 135mm manual focus Nikon lens from the 1990's; a number of lenses could make such a photo; the key part if the photographer selecting the right lens length, and the right camera-to-subject distance.


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## Designer (Apr 22, 2018)

Aside from the book linked above, go to the strobist.  He has a multi-episode class on lighting. But get the book anyway.


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## Mike73 (Apr 25, 2018)

Thanks for all the help guys. I figured I should first learn lighting and DoF before going out and spending on a new body and lens. 

I think as far as body's go, I would probably choose either the Nikon D5200/D5500 (More expensive) or I'll switch to Canon and get the 760D coupled with some new lenses. I don't have much Nikon gear so switching bodies won't really be an issue.

With regards to lenses, if I go with either bodies, I would most probably look at getting a 85mm or 105 or equivalent macro lens.

I just need to research more about the bodies and which brand offers well priced, sharp macro lenses.


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## Mike73 (Apr 25, 2018)

@Designer Thanks for the information about The Strobist. I'm currently checking it out and learning from there.

@Derrel Thanks so much for taking the time to write all of that. There was a lot of excellent information in your post and I am definitely going to take your advice and learn a bit more. At least now I know what focal length lenses I should be on the look out for. I'm going to see Canon's 85/105 macro lenses and prices and compare it to Nikon and thereafter choose a body. I don't really need to stick to Nikon because I haven't bought a lot of Nikon gear so switching is definitely an option if it will work out cheaper for me. Looking at bodies, the 760D is cheaper than the D5200/D5500. The prices of lenses will determine which body I will go for.


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## ac12 (Apr 25, 2018)

Mike73 said:


> Thanks for all the help guys. I figured I should first learn lighting and DoF before going out and spending on a new body and lens.
> 
> I think as far as body's go, I would probably choose either the Nikon D5200/D5500 (More expensive) or I'll switch to Canon and get the 760D coupled with some new lenses. I don't have much Nikon gear so switching bodies won't really be an issue.
> 
> ...



WRT bodies.  If you do low angle shots, you really want a pivoting/articulating screen.  I've been belly down in the dirt doing the low angle shots, and that wasn't fun.

First, look at which system (Canon or Nikon) has the lenses that you will want.
It sucks if you get a system, THEN find out that it does not have the lens you want.
Example.  Nikon has a DX 35mm f/1.8, Canon does not.  For Canon you have to buy the $550 FF lens or the Yongnuo lens.


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## Mike73 (Apr 25, 2018)

Currently I'm on the look out for the Nikon 85mm 1.8g or the Nikon 105mm. I managed to find a Micro NIKKOR 105mm 2.8 and I was wondering if its any good?

It's a fully manual focus lens.


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## ac12 (Apr 25, 2018)

YUP, the 105 is fine.
The good thing about the 105 is that it gives  you more working distance, so it is easier to light the subject without the lens getting in the way.

Tip:  If you are going to do macro work, get a 4-way rail.  It makes life a lot easier than having to move the tripod a 1/2 inch.


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## Mike73 (Apr 25, 2018)

ac12 said:


> YUP, the 105 is fine.
> The good thing about the 105 is that it gives  you more working distance, so it is easier to light the subject without the lens getting in the way.
> 
> Tip:  If you are going to do macro work, get a 4-way rail.  It makes life a lot easier than having to move the tripod a 1/2 inch.


I do photography of items like cards, bottles, perfumes, sneakers etc. This is the old Micro Nikon 105mm (1983 was the introduction year I think)


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## ac12 (Apr 25, 2018)

Mike73 said:


> ac12 said:
> 
> 
> > YUP, the 105 is fine.
> ...



Depending on how small the items are, I would still get a 4-way rail and even a tripod dolly.
But the dolly is a studio gear, not something you would take outside.

I use the 55 micro Nikkor.
I have not gotten around to getting a 105 micro/macro lens.


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## Designer (Apr 25, 2018)

Mike73 said:


> I was wondering if its any good?


He likes it:


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## Designer (Apr 25, 2018)

Mike73 said:


> It's a fully manual focus lens.


It is auto focus on a D7xxx or above.  Your D3100 does not have the screw drive focus motor in the body, so you will have to focus manually (or don't even bother with the focus ring, just move the camera a smidgin.)


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## Mike73 (Apr 25, 2018)

Designer said:


> Mike73 said:
> 
> 
> > It's a fully manual focus lens.
> ...


Thanks for your advice. I think this is a good lens and the price is quite good at $160


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## ac12 (Apr 25, 2018)

Designer said:


> Mike73 said:
> 
> 
> > It's a fully manual focus lens.
> ...



The picture looks like the manual focus lens to me.


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## Mike73 (Apr 26, 2018)

ac12 said:


> Designer said:
> 
> 
> > Mike73 said:
> ...


It's a manual focus lens only. I think this 105mm was introduced back in 1983. Its the 105mm f2. 8 micro.


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## keen.observer (May 5, 2018)

Consider the Nikon D7200. That is what I upgraded to from a D3300. It lacks some things...like an articulating screen...but has other things....dual card slots, and a focus motor which lets you use less expensive older lenses. You can get one for around $700.00 used, or $900.00 new. It is a Nikon DX model, so it will use the lenses you already have. It has a bigger buffer, so you can shoot more action shots before slowing down. It can shoot time lapse movies. It has 51 AF points. The built in flash can act as commander to control off camera flash units. The top shutter speed is 1/8000 of a second. It is sturdy, being mostly made of a Magnesium alloy. A battery grip is available. If the articulating screen is important to you, consider the Nikon 1 J5. It is a small-point & shoot sized item which takes removable Nikon 1 mount lenses. It is mirrorless, costs $500.00 new, or about $280 used, has a lot of handy features, and-with a Nikon FT-1 adapter-can use Nikon F mount lenses (DX,and FX), like the 50mm F/1.8 you already own.The Crop Factor on the J5 is 2.7...so your 50mm lens will provide the field of view of a 135mm lens.


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## Mike73 (May 10, 2018)

keen.observer said:


> Consider the Nikon D7200. That is what I upgraded to from a D3300. It lacks some things...like an articulating screen...but has other things....dual card slots, and a focus motor which lets you use less expensive older lenses. You can get one for around $700.00 used, or $900.00 new. It is a Nikon DX model, so it will use the lenses you already have. It has a bigger buffer, so you can shoot more action shots before slowing down. It can shoot time lapse movies. It has 51 AF points. The built in flash can act as commander to control off camera flash units. The top shutter speed is 1/8000 of a second. It is sturdy, being mostly made of a Magnesium alloy. A battery grip is available. If the articulating screen is important to you, consider the Nikon 1 J5. It is a small-point & shoot sized item which takes removable Nikon 1 mount lenses. It is mirrorless, costs $500.00 new, or about $280 used, has a lot of handy features, and-with a Nikon FT-1 adapter-can use Nikon F mount lenses (DX,and FX), like the 50mm F/1.8 you already own.The Crop Factor on the J5 is 2.7...so your 50mm lens will provide the field of view of a 135mm lens.


Quick question if you don't mind. Why would you say that the J5 is better than a D5200 or D5500? I did consider the D7100 and D7200 but the fact that it doesn't have an articulating screen is a con for me as I need that feature.


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## ac12 (May 10, 2018)

Mike73 said:


> keen.observer said:
> 
> 
> > Consider the Nikon D7200. That is what I upgraded to from a D3300. It lacks some things...like an articulating screen...but has other things....dual card slots, and a focus motor which lets you use less expensive older lenses. You can get one for around $700.00 used, or $900.00 new. It is a Nikon DX model, so it will use the lenses you already have. It has a bigger buffer, so you can shoot more action shots before slowing down. It can shoot time lapse movies. It has 51 AF points. The built in flash can act as commander to control off camera flash units. The top shutter speed is 1/8000 of a second. It is sturdy, being mostly made of a Magnesium alloy. A battery grip is available. If the articulating screen is important to you, consider the Nikon 1 J5. It is a small-point & shoot sized item which takes removable Nikon 1 mount lenses. It is mirrorless, costs $500.00 new, or about $280 used, has a lot of handy features, and-with a Nikon FT-1 adapter-can use Nikon F mount lenses (DX,and FX), like the 50mm F/1.8 you already own.The Crop Factor on the J5 is 2.7...so your 50mm lens will provide the field of view of a 135mm lens.
> ...



Articulating screen is available on the D5600 and D7500.

The Nikon 1 cameras are not really upgrading but going to a different system.
IMHO, the primary advantage is the compact size, compared to a dslr.
BUT you do not have a viewfinder with the J series.  You are viewing things on the back LCD.  Depending on what and how you shoot, that may or may not be an issue.  It is to me, I NEED a veiwfinder.


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