# Pictures are grainy??



## Stobber (Sep 25, 2011)

Hello, this last week on vacation I first started taking pictures in manual mode.  I have only had my D3100 for a few weeks, and finally started playing around.  I had allot of fun, and took allot of great shots.  My only concern or problem I really had was that many of the shots seemed grainy.  I am not sure what caused this, but am hoping the masses can help me out.  Many pictures were fine, but many had the problem.  Let me know what you think.  Thanks in advance.  

Here is one of the "affected" shots.


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## RubyGloom (Sep 25, 2011)

What settings did you use?


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## Lens Lenders (Sep 25, 2011)

That's likely pixelation "noise" caused by high ISO. I suspect your Nikon D3100 automatically raised it's ISO (a term carried-over from film; in a digital camera it relates to the amplification of the image sensor to get images in low light) in order to expose the image.

Look at the EXIF info of this image and post what the ISO was. That will likely be a clue behind the grainy appearance.


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## Stobber (Sep 25, 2011)

I knew I would be asked that question, and to be honest I do not remember.  It was pretty dark inside with only the natural light coming through the window.  Probably had around F5.6 and a shutter speed around 1/250(totally guessing).  That's why I am asking...what setting(s) should I use, or not use to avoid grainy shots like this.  Not sure what even causes this?


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## Stobber (Sep 25, 2011)

I think you might have nailed it there Lens Lenders.  Early in the vacation I had my ISO pinned at HI2, and later in the trip (another chapter into Understanding Exposure) I started playing with my ISO settings to take pictures of waterfalls.  I never thought of that, was wondering why all of a sudden my pictures cleared up.

When taking "fluffy" waterfall pictures, or just waterfall pictures in general, I started lowering my ISO to either 400 or 800 and they seemed much crisper, and I was very satisfied with my results.


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## Lens Lenders (Sep 25, 2011)

Stobber said:


> I knew I would be asked that question, and to be honest I do not remember.  It was pretty dark inside with only the natural light coming through the window.  Probably had around F5.6 and a shutter speed around 1/250(totally guessing).  That's why I am asking...what setting(s) should I use, or not use to avoid grainy shots like this.  Not sure what even causes this?


You should be able to find it by looking at the EXIF data in the photo. Your photo software should be able to show you this.

There are three components to exposing an image: shutter speed, lens aperture and film/sensor ISO. The balance of these three things creates the exposure.

If the combination of aperture and shutter speed is too dark for the light of the subject, you can (or a digital camera automatically can) raise ISO to compensate. The trade for ISO is, at high settings, it can result in pixelation noise which appears like the grain you see.

You likely either have the camera ISO manually set high or the camera automatically adjusted it high in order to make the correct exposure with the aperture and shutter speed settings you told it to use. The automatic adjustment of ISO is something you can turn on and off.


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## Stobber (Sep 25, 2011)

File Info 1
File:    DSC_0895.NEF
Date Created:    9/25/2011 1:56:55 PM
Date Modified:    9/19/2011 9:19:28 PM
File Size:    15.4 MB
Image Size:    L (4608 x 3072)
File Info 2
Date Shot:    9/19/2011 21:19:25.90
Time Zone and Date:    UTC-6, DST:ON
Image Quality:    Compressed RAW (12-bit)
Artist:
Copyright:
Image Comment:                                        
Camera Info
Device:    Nikon D3100
Lens:    VR 18-55mm F/3.5-5.6G
Focal Length:    18mm
Focus Mode:    AF-A
AF-Area Mode:    Auto
VR:    ON
AF Fine Tune:
Exposure
Aperture:    F/5.6
Shutter Speed:    1/125s
Exposure Mode:    Manual
Exposure Comp.:    +1.0EV
Exposure Tuning:
Metering:    Matrix
ISO Sensitivity:    2EV over 3200
Flash
Flash Sync Mode:     
Flash Mode:     
Flash Exposure Comp.:     
Colored Filter:
Image Settings
White Balance:    Shade, 0, 0
Color Space:    sRGB
High ISO NR:    ON (Low)
Long Exposure NR:    OFF
Active D-Lighting:    Auto
Image Authentication:
Vignette Control:
Auto Distortion Control:    OFF
Picture Control
Picture Control:    [VI] VIVID
Base:    [VI] VIVID
Quick Adjust:    0
Sharpening:    4
Contrast:    Active D-Lighting
Brightness:    Active D-Lighting
Saturation:    0
Hue:    0
Filter Effects:
Toning:
GPS
Latitude:
Longitude:
Altitude:
Altitude Reference:
Heading:
UTC:
Map Datum:


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## adversus (Sep 25, 2011)

> ISO Sensitivity: 2EV over 3200



Well there's yer problem.


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## ann (Sep 25, 2011)

and plus another stop with exposure compensation


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## Lens Lenders (Sep 25, 2011)

Stobber said:


> I think you might have nailed it there Lens Lenders.  Early in the vacation I had my ISO pinned at HI2, and later in the trip (another chapter into Understanding Exposure) I started playing with my ISO settings to take pictures of waterfalls.  I never thought of that, was wondering why all of a sudden my pictures cleared up.
> 
> When taking "fluffy" waterfall pictures, or just waterfall pictures in general, I started lowering my ISO to either 400 or 800 and they seemed much crisper, and I was very satisfied with my results.


That's it. The "HI2" setting is the maximum setting. Nikon doesn't even give it an ISO equivalent rating (like 6400) because it's beyond the camera's ability to keep clean of noise.

If you still feel you're learning about exposure, I recommend fixing your ISO at one setting and keeping it there. Try 100 or 200 for outdoors and 400 or 800 for inside. Then learn to adjust shutter speed and aperture for exposure while also learning what adjusting shutter speed and aperture can do for your photos.

You say you like making photos of waterfalls. Get a tripod (or steady your camera on a rock / tree) and frame a nice waterfall picture in the camera viewfinder. Then make several images at different shutter speeds, starting at 500 and working backwards to 15. (You may wish to use the "S" Shutter Priority mode so you set the shutter and the camera adjusts aperture automatically.) Look at the results and see what higher / lower shutter speeds do for a moving subject like a waterfall.


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## jake337 (Sep 25, 2011)

Shot at the lowest ISO possible unless otherwise needed.  Make sure your ISO is not set to auto.


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## Stobber (Sep 25, 2011)

Once I started messing around with the ISO, I started having better results(just learned that, thank you).  I did get some pretty decent waterfall shots.  I did use a tripod, and I do have a cordless release, but did not use it for these pictures. 

Here is one example.








File Info 1
File:    DSC_1585.NEF
Date Created:    9/25/2011 2:56:21 PM
Date Modified:    9/23/2011 3:10:18 AM
File Size:    13.0 MB
Image Size:    L (4608 x 3072)
File Info 2
Date Shot:    9/23/2011 03:10:16.70
Time Zone and Date:    UTC-6, DST:ON
Image Quality:    Compressed RAW (12-bit)
Artist:
Copyright:
Image Comment:                                        
Camera Info
Device:    Nikon D3100
Lens:    VR 18-55mm F/3.5-5.6G
Focal Length:    40mm
Focus Mode:    AF-A
AF-Area Mode:    Auto
VR:    ON
AF Fine Tune:
Exposure
Aperture:    F/29
Shutter Speed:    1/2s
Exposure Mode:    Manual
Exposure Comp.:    +1.0EV
Exposure Tuning:
Metering:    Matrix
ISO Sensitivity:    ISO 100
Flash
Flash Sync Mode:     
Flash Mode:     
Flash Exposure Comp.:     
Colored Filter:
Image Settings
White Balance:    Cloudy, 0, 0
Color Space:    sRGB
High ISO NR:    OFF
Long Exposure NR:    OFF
Active D-Lighting:    Auto
Image Authentication:
Vignette Control:
Auto Distortion Control:    OFF
Picture Control
Picture Control:    [VI] VIVID
Base:    [VI] VIVID
Quick Adjust:    0
Sharpening:    4
Contrast:    Active D-Lighting
Brightness:    Active D-Lighting
Saturation:    0
Hue:    0
Filter Effects:
Toning:
GPS
Latitude:
Longitude:
Altitude:
Altitude Reference:
Heading:
UTC:
Map Datum:


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## KmH (Sep 25, 2011)

Set these to Standard or zero, not Vivid:

Picture Control:    [VI] VIVID
Base:    [VI] VIVID
Sharpening:    4


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## Stobber (Sep 25, 2011)

Done KMH..thank you.  What about noise reduction...on or off?


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## Hickeydog (Sep 25, 2011)

On will reduce the noise somewhat (I'm comparing this to a T2i.  I have no experience with Nikon, sorry), but it eats up the the buffer FAST!  I wound up turning it off because I could only take 2-3 shots continuously before the buffer filled.


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## tevo (Sep 25, 2011)

My first guess would be ISO.. maybe a dusty sensor?


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## Stobber (Sep 25, 2011)

Thank you all for the help, I am still on vacation tomorrow, so I will be sure to go out and see what I can do.  I am back in northwest North Dakota, not the scenery that the arrowhead area of Minnesota has, but I will see what I can do.


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## tevo (Sep 25, 2011)

Stobber said:


> Thank you all for the help, I am still on vacation tomorrow, so I will be sure to go out and see what I can do.  I am back in northwest North Dakota, not the scenery that the arrowhead area of Minnesota has, but I will see what I can do.



Shoot with ISO 100 in normal light. If they are still grainy, check your sensor , mirror, and lens for dust.


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## Stobber (Sep 25, 2011)

tevo said:


> Stobber said:
> 
> 
> > Thank you all for the help, I am still on vacation tomorrow, so I will be sure to go out and see what I can do.  I am back in northwest North Dakota, not the scenery that the arrowhead area of Minnesota has, but I will see what I can do.
> ...



That being said....I am constantly checking everything for dust, water droplets, smears etc etc.  What is the proper way to clean the sensor and mirror when my blower just does not work??


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## tevo (Sep 25, 2011)

Stobber said:


> tevo said:
> 
> 
> > Stobber said:
> ...



To be honest, I would just bring it to a camera shop. I wouldn't risk scratching your sensor with a cloth - but if you are super careful that can be done - with a microfiber.


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## Stobber (Sep 25, 2011)

tevo said:


> Stobber said:
> 
> 
> > tevo said:
> ...



I would never never consider touching either of those if the blower would not take care of the problem.  Was just curious if people did that on their own, and how to go about it.


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## tevo (Sep 25, 2011)

Stobber said:


> tevo said:
> 
> 
> > Stobber said:
> ...



There are ways, It is just absolutely imperative that you do not have dust on the mirror/sensor before cleaning.


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## KmH (Sep 25, 2011)

Dust on the mirror has_* zero*_ effect on the photo.

Sensor cleaning is just one part of routine maintanence, though there are proper tools and techniques to do it. there are many Yoytube videos that show how.

The D7000 has an image sensor self-cleaning system. The Nikon DSLR's I have that can do that I have setup so they do the sensor cleaning both when I turn the camera off and when I turn it on.


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## Stobber (Sep 25, 2011)

KmH said:


> Dust on the mirror has_* zero*_ effect on the photo.
> 
> Sensor cleaning is just one part of routine maintanence, though there are proper tools and techniques to do it. there are many Yoytube videos that show how.
> 
> The D7000 has an image sensor self-cleaning system. The Nikon DSLR's I have that can do that I have setup so they do the sensor cleaning both when I turn the camera off and when I turn it on.



This is because the mirror simply reflects the image to the viewfinder, and does not reflect the image to the sensor....am I correct?


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## KmH (Sep 25, 2011)

Yep!

Did you know the main mirror is only 50% reflective?
There is a smaller secondary mirror behind the main mirror that reflects the other 50% of the light the lens provides down into the bottom of the camera body, which is where the auto focus module is.

Auto focus is always done with the largest lens aperture the lens can provide for the focal length it is set to, so as much light as possible gets to the AF module. so it can work properly.


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