# Automatic mode on the Mark iii



## TNHphoto (Jun 17, 2014)

A bit of an odd question here...

I used to have a Canon 40D with a EF-S 18-200 lens. Recently I upgraded to the 5D Mark iii with 24-105L lens. A significant upgrade you could say...

Strangely though, I've noticed that when shooting in automatic mode, it seems like I used to get nicer photos out of my old set-up. Photos shot in auto mode with my new gear feel flatter, less 3D, less bokeh. For example, photos on a beach have less detail in the clouds and less detail in the water.

I was wondering if the Mark iii's "Scene Intelligent Automatic" mode is in fact more dumbed down than the 40D's automatic mode. Does anyone know? Has anybody noticed anything like this or am I alone?

Thanks for your help!!


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## CAP (Jun 17, 2014)

Well i never use the green full auto on my 5D Mark III as it is pro camera and you now might need to learn to shoot M or Av or Tv modes. 

But i just tried Auto mode with a 70-200mm is usm ii and i saw no issues shooting inside my home in low light.

Also the 5D Mark iii is a big jump for the 40D and is 1000x more complex camera in every way.  

I checked into this and i called the CPS hotline they stated that Scene Intelligent Automatic is far improved than on the 40D.

So i'm not sure what else to say.

Hope this helps


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## hombredelmar (Jun 17, 2014)

TNHphoto said:


> A bit of an odd question here...
> 
> I used to have a Canon 40D with a EF-S 18-200 lens. Recently I upgraded to the 5D Mark iii with 24-105L lens. A significant upgrade you could say...
> 
> ...


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## ongpeitong (Jun 17, 2014)

Hi, i face the problem you face before. I just get a newly canon camere EOS rebel t3i, it's user-friendly,
everything cn set in automatic mode. Beside, you can get a lot of regular free newsletter how to capture
amazing photo with simple mode setting. 
Hope it may help. 

Canon EOS Rebel T3i


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## Derrel (Jun 18, 2014)

TNHphoto said:


> A bit of an odd question here...
> 
> I used to have a Canon 40D with a EF-S 18-200 lens. Recently I upgraded to the 5D Mark iii with 24-105L lens. A significant upgrade you could say...
> 
> ...



I think you'd want to go to the Custom Function Menu, and make some adjustments to the image capture parameters. Maybe turn the sharpening up, boost the saturation a bit, maybe set the tone curve (contrast) a slight bit above normal. The typical thing most camera makers have done is to make the 'consumer' cameras a slight bit more "eye-candy" producers, and have the "pro" cams be a bit more reserved.

Are you talking about JPEG images created by the camera, in the camera? Or are you referring to JPEG images created from .CR2 files using Canon's DPP or an Adobe software product?

The thing is, it's not really the camera that makes the pictures per se--it is the SETTINGS that are enabled in SOFTWARE that makes the pictures turn out a certain way. A digital SLR can be set to shoot a number of different ways, from fairly flat, neutral, rather un-sharp images that will later be adjusted quite vigorously in software, all the way up to images bursting with saturation and sharpoened HARD, and ready to be sent to a printer right off of the memory card.

Maybe take a look at this: Canon 5D Mark III User's Guide

A few excerpts: "*Color*For people, I shoot in the STANDARD [*S] Picture Style setting (you get there by hitting the top left "*" button), and change only the saturation to +2.PORTAIT at +1 saturation is also nice, use what looks great to you.For everything else, I usually set +3 for saturation.I usually shoot in Auto White Balance (AWB), but trim the colors to add 5 steps of amber (A5)."

and "I always leave the shadow optimizer (Automatic Lighting Optimizer) ON, which is its default.​I don't use highlight recovery (Highlight Tone Priority), since it deactivates the shadow optimizer above.

*Exposure Compensation*
My 5D Mark III usually gives the best results without any exposure compensation.
Colorful subjects in interesting light at +3 saturation can overload colorful highlights, so under these conditions with highlight optimization ("Highlight Tone Priority) OFF, I'll often set -0.7 compensation.With highlight optimization ON, I find 0.0 compensation usually gives me the best results under most conditions."​


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## runnah (Jun 18, 2014)

The default jpeg in camera processing is set to the bland side. You can tweak the setting by using the picture mode (little brush and palate button). But the Canon and all top end camera benefit great from using the raw file format. I have mine set to small jpeg and large raw. I use the jpeg to check the image on the lcd and so I have a reference for editing later.

And like Derrel said, read the manual, then read it again and again.


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## keyseddie (Jun 18, 2014)

Seems plain and simple to me. If you have a 5D you should give it the respect it deserves and learn how to use it.


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## imagemaker46 (Jun 18, 2014)

The marklll has an auto mode?  I thought the "A" stood for Amateur.


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## paulvgmip (Jun 18, 2014)

Buys a 5d Mark III, shoots in Auto mode. Sigh.. :scratch:


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## ShaneF (Jun 18, 2014)

Not to be rude but i hope you will take some time to learn  about shooting your camera in manual and other modes. You will be so amazed in what control you have over your photos and what possibilities that camera will give you.  leaving the 5D MKIII in Auto mode is like buying a Ferrari and never coming out of first gear.  I'm not trying to be a camera snob but just letting you know what potential you are missing out on shooting in auto mode.


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## TNHphoto (Jun 18, 2014)

Thanks to those who posted useful responses! I'm very grateful. To those hating on the thread, please understand that I know the Markiii is expensive and wonderful, and I do use other modes. My question was if anyone else has noticed the "Scene Intelligent Automatic" mode on the Markiii being lackluster in comparison to the auto mode on lesser Canon bodies. Derrel seemed to get my point when he states:

"The typical thing most camera makers have done is to make the 'consumer' cameras a slight bit more "eye-candy" producers, and have the "pro" cams be a bit more reserved."

That's what I was wondering...

To show, rather than tell, here are some photo comparisons between the two auto modes on the two different cameras. I wish I had exact shots to compare, but I sold my 40D to buy my Markiii, so I can't take both cameras out at the same time to get exact examples.

40D auto:



Markiii auto:


40D auto:


Markiii auto:


The Markiii photos feel flatter to me and weirdly, the 40D photos feel more 3D and more lifelike. 

Any constructive opinions that aren't just venom? 

Thanks guys!


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## runnah (Jun 18, 2014)

I think what you might be seeing the fact that the 5d has a better dynamic range. The samples you posted from the 40d all the shadows were almost fully black, whereas there was plenty of shadow detail in the 5d pics. This a good thing.

You can go in and adjust the contrast settings in the picture mode thingy.


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## ShaneF (Jun 18, 2014)




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## Derrel (Jun 18, 2014)

runnah said:


> I think what you might be seeing the fact that the 5d has a better dynamic range. The samples you posted from the 40d all the shadows were almost fully black, whereas there was plenty of shadow detail in the 5d pics. This a good thing.
> 
> You can go in and adjust the contrast settings in the picture mode thingy.



OMG...I thought almost the same exact thing...the 40D was "clipping" the dark tones...

ANyway, I took the last two 5D-III images into Lightroom and did TWO things. 1)applied HDR Effect Strong (a 1-click preset) to them, and 2) Applied Vibrance + 61.
View attachment 77301

View attachment 77302

Then, just to test my theory and Runnah's theory about the 40D and the reduced dynamic range/blacks being crushed, I applied the SAME, EXACT "saved set of settings" to the top 40D image...and as predicted, the blacks were detail-free in the palm tree, so I added a wee bit of fill light...and voila! Here is what the 40D look like with the same basic software settings.


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## runnah (Jun 18, 2014)

Derrel said:


> OMG...I thought almost the same exact thing...the 40D was "clipping" the dark tones...  ANyway, I took the last two 5D-III images into Lightroom and did TWO things. 1)applied HDR Effect Strong (a 1-click preset) to them, and 2) Applied Vibrance + 61. <img src="http://www.thephotoforum.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=77301"/>  <img src="http://www.thephotoforum.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=77302"/>  Then, just to test my theory and Runnah's theory about the 40D and the reduced dynamic range/blacks being crushed, I applied the SAME, EXACT "saved set of settings" to the top 40D image...and as predicted, the blacks were detail-free in the palm tree, so I added a wee bit of fill light...and voila! Here is what the 40D look like with the same basic software settings.  <img src="http://www.thephotoforum.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=77300"/>



Job done! I am going to bed.


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## AmberAtLoveAndInk (Jun 18, 2014)

Come on now peeps, (I've been using that word a lot lately, might have to adopt it to regular speech hehe) shooting it in auto for fairly simple things doesn't warrant his hands to be chopped off. I put mine in auto when I'm being lazy outside with my son and want to snap a few of him without moving dials and buttons the entire time. With a 2 year old running in the wind erratically, that auto mode has a great focusing assist that gets all the right parts of his face in the frame almost everytime. When in manual using a selective crosspoint I have to wait "for the moment" and cross my fingers that his face will run into my focus point and I'm quick enough to pull the trigger. 
Just my input.
As for the "flat" issues, the pros are right, the 40 is clipping you. Happy shooting!


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## imagemaker46 (Jun 19, 2014)

I didn't add the stupid smiley face to go along with my comment.


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## TNHphoto (Jun 20, 2014)

Wow. Thank you guys! For the edited photos, the video, and the notes. Super helpful! Gave me alot of avenues to explore. Very grateful.


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## KmH (Jun 20, 2014)

FWIW - Nikon prosumer and pro DSLRs only have Program (P), Aperture priority (A), Shutter priority (S), and Manual (M) exposure modes.

No Auto mode, and no scene modes.


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## snowbear (Jun 20, 2014)

KmH said:


> FWIW - Nikon prosumer and pro DSLRs only have Program (P), Aperture priority (A), Shutter priority (S), and Manual (M) exposure modes.
> 
> No Auto mode, and no scene modes.



Maybe Canon is for the masses.


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## fokker (Jun 24, 2014)

You're not really comparing apples with apples on the shots you posted. The lighting is quite different in all of them, and this is going to make a much bigger difference then the settings or type of camera used.


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