# another watch C&C



## y75stingray (May 12, 2010)

Hey guys just finished this one. What do you think?
I shot each watch separately in front of a black back ground and combined them in Photoshop. Anything you would have done differently? 

http://i769.photobucket.com/albums/xx336/y75stingray/equipe-forum.jpg?t=1273693283


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## flea77 (May 12, 2010)

Well I don't usually click on links but product photography is a thing of mine so.....

1st it is not as sharp as it should be. 2nd the fact that some watches have complete straps and some seem to just disappear bothers me. 3rd the lighting is not really consistent, try shooting them all at once instead of using photoshop. 4th note the left center back watch the top of the face is not lit well, I can hardly see the 12. Lastly I would have tilted the center watch a little more to see it's face a bit more.

Nice idea though, a little different approach and I think you will have a great shot.

Allan


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## Sbuxo (May 13, 2010)

I don't feel like opening it in another tab and having to switch tabs to look at it while trying to critique.
Do us all a favor and post the pic, not a link.


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## y75stingray (May 13, 2010)




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## y75stingray (May 13, 2010)

flea77 said:


> Well I don't usually click on links but product photography is a thing of mine so.....
> 
> 1st it is not as sharp as it should be.
> 
> ...


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## Sw1tchFX (May 13, 2010)

it looks a little scratched up and the area behind the glass (not sure what that's called) is not easy to read. I think you need a larger light source, like a softbox pretty much right on top of it. Gotta make sure that face is white! 

For example:

Flickr Photo Download: Timex Watch


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## y75stingray (May 13, 2010)

"it looks a little scratched up and the area behind the glass (not sure what that's called) is not easy to read. I think you need a larger light source, like a softbox pretty much right on top of it. Gotta make sure that face is white!" 

I need to do a bit more spot healing for the scratches. I have tried to get my employer to get me samples with the crystals removed for the reasons you have just pointed out. the problem with harder lighting on the face is it tends to blow out alot of texture. i have also tried bouncing white cards onto the face but usually end up with alot of bad glare.

P.S thanks for posting your way of shooting blown out white backgrounds "the glass on top of sawhorses" its a great way to do it if you dont have a product table.


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## Christie Photo (May 13, 2010)

I'm not bonding with this image.

For me, the lighting HAS to great for an image like this and I don't find that any one of the watches are well lit.

I would expect the larger image, front and center, to have a lot more "pop" in both the face (numerals and hands) and the case and buttons.

You have a real challenge here.  Like Sw1tchFX suggested, you need at least a large board right over the top of the set...  something to reflect in the metal parts and the face of the watch.

-Pete


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## Sw1tchFX (May 13, 2010)

You don't want to remove the crystals, but instead use a gobo to flag off the part of the softbox the crystal is reflecting. removing the crystals i'm sure can be a PITA, and look awkward if you see the inside of thelip, but using a gobo just takes about 3 minutes of coordination. 

I have a few transparencies of watches on 4x5, somewhere in my house, i wish that i had the set up shots too.


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## y75stingray (May 19, 2010)

thanks alot guys. I will try using some of these techniques in my next shots and hopefully will have something really great to show you!


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