# Light Metering with Studio Strobes/monolights...



## BuS_RiDeR (Aug 16, 2011)

I feel as though I should know this, but I am having trouble wrapping my brain around it...

I currently have a basic studio setup with two 400ws monolights (sync speed is1/250th). Unfortunately, I can't afford a proper light meter ATM.

What I want to know is: what is the easiest/best way to meter/select the proper aperture setting without spending a lot of time with trial and error... or is trial and error the only way?


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## 480sparky (Aug 16, 2011)

Mebbe some TPF member has an old meter for sale..... try posting a WTB.

Check the local camera clubs and photo stores.

There's always ebay and Craigslist.


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## SabrinaO (Aug 16, 2011)

Cameras have a built in meter. So if you are using strobes, underexpose your subject a bit (using your in camera meter) and use the strobes to bring back exposure. I don't have a light meter either. I just do this and chimp. I'm sure your camera has an preview screen...


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## BekahAura (Aug 16, 2011)

How much time does it really take to snap 3 quick shots while changing the aperture in between? Trial and error may seem like a pain now, but after some practice you will get pretty good at guessing, and spend less time figuring.

For a change of pace pick the aperture you want and change the power on your lights! 

I've been using off camera flash for about a year... it gets easier.

Edited to add this: I work with 4 professional photographers at a magazine, only 1 out of the 4 uses a light meter. Actually out of all the extra equipment we have in the studio I think we only have 1 light meter.


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## SabrinaO (Aug 16, 2011)

I didn't see your aperture part... I dont think anyone can tell you what to set your ap to because it depends on what exactly you want to do and depends on the scene.


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## tirediron (Aug 16, 2011)

Buy a used meter; they're cheap and plentiful on eBay.  I picked up a Luna Pro F (top of the line analogue meter in the 70s - 80s) for <$100. Works like a charm. I also got a Minolta Flash V, a very good digital meter with more functions than any one person will likely ever need.  That said, as others have said, your only other option is to guess-timate a starting point and chimp your adjustments from there.


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## gsgary (Aug 17, 2011)

SabrinaO said:


> Cameras have a built in meter. So if you are using strobes, underexpose your subject a bit (using your in camera meter) and use the strobes to bring back exposure. I don't have a light meter either. I just do this and chimp. I'm sure your camera has an preview screen...



That is not correct, that is only for studio and ambient, for studio light there is no other way than trial and error without a meter, Try half power on main light 
F8 at 1/125,iso100 and go from there but you can't beat having a flash meter i have a Minolta 5 £450 new but can be had on ebay for a fair price


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## Dao (Aug 17, 2011)

Without meter, trial and error is the only way I can think of.    In digital world, it is not as bad as you think since you can see the result right away and it is in a control environment (not on location that ambient mix with artificial).

I will set the aperture, (i.e. f/8) and shutter speed (i.e 1/200) and take a test shot.  Then adjust the strobe power or distance, camera ISO (or aperture) based on the result.   I do not think you need to take a lot of shots to get the correct exposure or the exposure you want.

And next time when you need to do the same thing again, the last settings should work or very close.


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## kundalini (Aug 17, 2011)

Much like gsgary and Dao, if I'm using monolights, shooting portraits with a backdrop, I'll start off ~f/8 and set shutter speed to x-sync, ISO to base (200 on my Nikons).

One thing not mentioned yet is the ratio between main and fill lights. A 3:1 is a reasonable starting off point for portraits, so you can use power adjustments on your lights and distances to subject to guage that ratio.


EDIT:
I also concur with the others that a light meter will make your life a lot easier.  Takes the guessing game away.


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## IgsEMT (Aug 17, 2011)

I'll tell you what I do in-studio when shooting kids and leave the counting/calculating up to you 
I'm using AB800 which are 320Ws units.
ISO 200, 1/200sec, f/5.6 Lights are about 5 feet from the subject, subject is 1-2 feet from the background. One light is set to 1/8 power and second b/n 1/16-1/8. Thats my starting point 99% of the time, One test shot allows me to either move one light closer or further. I prefer to have 2:1 ratio.
When shooting a wedding in bigger hall, I start at ISO 400, 1/200sec 5.6 lights are about 10-15 feet from the subject at 1/4-1/2 power and readjust from there. If anywhere from 1-3 people I'll stick w/ 5.6, if more then 3 people in the group will stop down to 8 and readjust the lights accordingly. 

During film days I had a light meter, it was a must have, since mistakes were COSTLY. Number of years, already in digital age, it _fell out_ of my assistant's hand INTO the lake...


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## BuS_RiDeR (Aug 17, 2011)

Thanks for all the input. I appreciate it greatly.


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## gsgary (Aug 17, 2011)

I also have an old Shepperd flash meter that can be had for peanuts on ebay and very accuraste


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## SabrinaO (Aug 17, 2011)

gsgary said:


> SabrinaO said:
> 
> 
> > Cameras have a built in meter. So if you are using strobes, underexpose your subject a bit (using your in camera meter) and use the strobes to bring back exposure. I don't have a light meter either. I just do this and chimp. I'm sure your camera has an preview screen...
> ...



It not "not correct"... i just suck at explaining myself. I know there is NO way to meter _studio strobes_ through the _camera_. That is absolutely impossible. So what I should have specified is that I meter the ambient light, and check the overall shot/lighting through chimping...


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## Helen B (Aug 17, 2011)

The difference in exposure between ambient light and strobe in a studio is usually so great that an ambient light reading is next to worthless - you are better off guessing (or starting at say f/11) then refining from there. Your initial guesses will get better very quickly if you make a mental note of the aperture eventually chosen, light position and setting etc.. If you use the histogram to evaluate the initial experience-guessed exposure the next exposure is likely to be pretty close to exactly what you want.

Best,
Helen


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## gsgary (Aug 17, 2011)

SabrinaO said:


> gsgary said:
> 
> 
> > SabrinaO said:
> ...




I'm shocked that was very diplomatic, you didn't have a rant at me :hug::


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## radiorickm (Aug 17, 2011)

ok....old timer here...and I didn't see this mentioned anywhere.

Get the guide number for the flash units, and get the distance from the strobes and magically, you will get your aperature. Google using the guide number


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## BuS_RiDeR (Aug 17, 2011)

radiorickm said:


> ok....old timer here...and I didn't see this mentioned anywhere.
> 
> Get the guide number for the flash units, and get the distance from the strobes and magically, you will get your aperature. Google using the guide number



I'll look into that thanks...


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## Dao (Aug 17, 2011)

However, Guide number do not factor with the light modifier when used with flash (bare flash).  And strobe light use watt-second.  Again, it is before any light modifier and the reflector.


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