# how to prevent a blown out sky?



## ashm09 (Feb 19, 2012)

I shoot in manual mode always when I do outdoor shoots.  My only problem is that my sky always looks white even when it is as blue as can be!  What am I doing wrong?  I try to lower the ISO as well as the shutter speed so the picture isn't as dark but it doesn't do much but darken the image and nothing to the sky.  Any tips?  Also, how do you use photoshop to create a blue cloudy sky?  
Thanks!


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## Bossy (Feb 19, 2012)

I get blue skies when I close down my ap. ​


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## davesnothere11 (Feb 19, 2012)

The book"Understanding Exposure" by Bryan Peterson would help you greatly. 

A sample pic might help see your problem but I'm guessing it's your metering mode and what you are metering your exposure off of.


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## trizzo (Feb 19, 2012)

I would try, of course if it is possible, to create two shots - one in manual mode and the other one in any automatic mode e.g. Aperture priority mode. Then you can compare these results and exposure settings as well. Maybe you will find different exposure data in those shots, so you can adjust your manual setup next time....

Sent from my GT-I9000 using Tapatalk


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## tirediron (Feb 19, 2012)

What sort of work are you doing?  Are these fashion/model, sports, landscapes, or???  There are several ways to deal with the issue.  The first and easiest is to use a polarizing filter, but this has limitations on its effectiveness based on time-of-day and shooting angle relative to the sun.  You can also use graduated neutral-density filters which will reduce some of the light coming from the sky, and reduce the over-all dynamic range of the scene.  You can also shoot for an HDR image, but taking 2-5 images of the scene and blending them into one overall well exposed image with special software.  

As for "creating" a cloudy sky in Photoshop?  Don't.


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## luvmyfamily (Feb 19, 2012)

What did you have your aperture and ISO set?  I just made this mistake recently.  Had my aperture set too high, should've been lower.  Made all the difference in the world. Are you using a UV filter also?  I keep mine on there.


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## EIngerson (Feb 19, 2012)

Graduated neutral density filter.


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## cgipson1 (Feb 19, 2012)

ashm09 said:


> I shoot in manual mode always when I do outdoor shoots.  My only problem is that my sky always looks white even when it is as blue as can be!  What am I doing wrong?  I try to lower the ISO as well as the shutter speed so the picture isn't as dark but it doesn't do much but darken the image and nothing to the sky.  Any tips?  Also, how do you use photoshop to create a blue cloudy sky?
> Thanks!



White skys indicate overexposure. You need to expose for the sky.  Aperture doesn't really matter that much for the color, as long as the exposure is  correct. Typically a sllight underexposure will increase the color even  more. As mentioned.. a GND or a CPL filter can help. If you have a foreground subject you are exposing for.. then use fill flash, to even out the exposures between the subject and the sky.  Please post some shots so we can evaluate the cause!



luvmyfamily said:


> What did you have your aperture and ISO set?  I just made this mistake recently.  Had my aperture set too high, should've been lower.  Made all the difference in the world. Are you using a UV filter also?  I keep mine on there.



UV filters are unecessary.. and not recommended as they can  cause flare and artifacts.. and are not needed in digital cameras since  they are NOT UV sensitive like film was. And while they do protect the lens from touches, splashes, etc.. they can do more damage if they break!


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## The_Traveler (Feb 19, 2012)

ashm09 said:


> I shoot in manual mode always when I do outdoor shoots.  My only problem is that my sky always looks white even when it is as blue as can be!  What am I doing wrong?  I try to lower the ISO as well as the shutter speed so the picture isn't as dark but it doesn't do much but darken the image and nothing to the sky.  Any tips?  Also, how do you use photoshop to create a blue cloudy sky?
> Thanks!



It doesn't seem you have a good hold on the three issues of aperture, shutter speed and ISO  that make up exposure.
If the aperture is more open (numbers get smaller) more light is admitted for any specific shutter speed,
If the ISO is increased less shutter speed is needed

There are two separate issues you have to contend with here: the exposure of your subject and the exposure of the sky.

The exposure meter in your camera, if it is set to look at the entire frame, will try to make the entire frame even out to a medium grey.
If the sky is bright and the subject is dark, then it may be impossible for one exposure to get a good representation of both because the dynamic range of the scene is greater than your camera sensor can manage.

You need to read about the exposure triangle, dynamic range and the topic of exposure in general - and then come back with questions if you have any.

Lew


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## KmH (Feb 19, 2012)

EIngerson said:


> Graduated neutral density filter.



Graduated neutral density filter.

It goes in front of your lens and makes the sky darker. The darker sky is then close to the same brightness as the land.

By itself - the camera can expose for the sky, *or* for the land, but not both at the same time.

Understanding how your camera works makes photography a lot simpler.


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## Kolander (Feb 19, 2012)

ashm09 said:


> ...how do you use photoshop to create a blue cloudy sky?



Try this: Basic Graduated Neutral Density Filter | Photo Effects | PSHERO

Anyway, you can simply change the sky for a pretty blue one, it's very usual.


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## Dominantly (Feb 19, 2012)

Dynamic Range is your culprit here, dang him.


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## Tee (Feb 19, 2012)

What are you photographing outdoors?  People? Landscape?  I would recommend learning how to expose properly so you don't have to waste time in Photoshop.  A CPL filter can definitely come in handy.  If you're photographing people, YouTube Adorama TV - Using a flash in the sun.  I tried embedding it but it didn't work.  It's worth the look.


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## ashm09 (Feb 19, 2012)

I am shooting children and families.  I usually have my ISO at 400 with an apeture of 6.3 sometimes I use an apeture of 4 depending on the look I want.  Then I meter for the shutter speed.  I think sometimes I go over the meter just a tad because it helps brighten up my image in my camera rather then having to do it in photoshop.  I just don't like the way photoshop makes the image look when you brighten it up there.  Let me see if I can get a picture posted to show you what I mean.


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## ashm09 (Feb 19, 2012)

img0001 by ashmergl22, on Flickr




img0179 by ashmergl22, on Flickr


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## zcar21 (Feb 19, 2012)

Too overexposed, underexpose and check white balance. Other in camera settings like constrast might, might not make a difference.


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## thereyougo! (Feb 19, 2012)

ashm09 said:


> img0001 by ashmergl22, on Flickr
> 
> 
> 
> ...


I rather suspect you need some fill flash on that to make the background darker.  It's very bright behind them


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## The_Traveler (Feb 19, 2012)

These are overexposed because you are shooting people in the shade and expecting the background, which is bright sunlight and brilliant sky to be correctly exposed.

Get under a much larger tree, don't have the sky as a background, shoot late in the day when the sky isn't so bright and all your troubles will disappear.

But first, read about exposure in the links above.
This problem is produced by the photographer not understanding exposure.

Lew


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## Tee (Feb 19, 2012)

ashm09 said:


> I am shooting children and families.  I usually have my ISO at 400 with an apeture of 6.3 sometimes I use an apeture of 4 depending on the look I want.  Then I meter for the shutter speed.  I think sometimes I go over the meter just a tad because it helps brighten up my image in my camera rather then having to do it in photoshop.  I just don't like the way photoshop makes the image look when you brighten it up there.  Let me see if I can get a picture posted to show you what I mean.



You should definitely youtube search the title I suggested in my above thread.  It literally discusses how to avoid the very troubles you're having.  What...you're still here...go watch it!


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## mjhoward (Feb 19, 2012)

Why you shooting ISO 400 in full sun anyway???


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## ashm09 (Feb 19, 2012)

I worked with a professional photographer and she recommended that I shoot at 400 when shooting outside.  So that's what I've been doing.


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## Bitter Jeweler (Feb 19, 2012)

It's better to know WHY to do something, than just doing what somebody tells you to do.


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## cgipson1 (Feb 19, 2012)

ashm09 said:


> I worked with a professional photographer and she recommended that I shoot at 400 when shooting outside.  So that's what I've been doing.



There are times when ISO 400 is perfect for outside.. and there are times when other ISO's are appropriate! Look at your meter... decide what apertures and shutter speeds you want to use... and then adjust your ISO to match (or vice versa!)


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## Kolander (Feb 20, 2012)

If you have no flash (better avoid the built-in one) you can get nice shots outside using a reflector. It is a "must have"


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## Edsport (Feb 20, 2012)

Meter for the sky and use flash to properly expose the subject...


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## BZSPhotography (Feb 20, 2012)

The key to fixing this is your f-stop, try and close it up a little bit


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## Joey_Ricard (Feb 20, 2012)

Bitter Jeweler said:


> It's better to know WHY to do something, than just doing what somebody tells you to do.



Absolutely
And you can usually tell how much someone wants really know, as they will usually ask more questions or follow up.
In this super age of instant gratification - Some people just want to know what switch to flip and when that isn't the answer..........well, you know....


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## ashm09 (Feb 20, 2012)

I have an external flash that I use for indoor stuff but I like the natural light better.  When I worked with the photographer she recommended the ISO for the time of day and the look I was going for.  She had told me she uses 400 90% of the time.  She also recommended that I keep my cameral on manual mode and just play with the settings until I get the look that I want. So I just kept the ISO at 400 and played with the shutter speed and apeture.  Now I have the look I want but I just wish I could get the sky to look like a blue sky in my pictures.  I do lower it as needed but like I said in my previous post I like the photos to be brighter and I prefer not to brighten them up in photoshop.  I'm also a beginner so I'm still learning which is why I'm here asking questions.


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## ghache (Feb 20, 2012)

Neutral density filter, 3-4 stop do the job really well in really bright days, and a good flash or 2.

You want a blue sky? you need to setup to get that blue sky and light your subject to balance your subject and the sky or the ambient.


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## MReid (Feb 20, 2012)

If you don't like the blown out sky for a background place your subjects into a background you do like.....or learn to use flash.

It is often not possible no matter what your settings are to expose the people properly and not blow out the background without using flash (maybe a reflector, but then you have bigger problems).

If you shoot  late in the evening you may have a better chance, you can shoot with the light in their face and then possibly not blow out the sky.
You can do this midday also but the light is to harsh.

It is acceptable to blow out the background if you are shooting natural light....or as I said pick better backgrounds.


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## molested_cow (Feb 20, 2012)

For close subjects, a flash. If you don't have a flash or don't want to, you can expose it to the sky, then try to recover it in RAW editing (won't always work).

For landscape or still subjects, HDR.


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## Joel_W (Feb 20, 2012)

When I 1st read your post, I thought that HDR imaging would be the best way to handle your blown out sky issues. But after seeing your portraits,  and since I don't like HDR portraits, your best options are either fill flash, or a GND filter. Either will work just fine. 

You've gotten some great advice as to why you've blown out skies, and several methods to eleviate it. You just need to try a few methods and decide how you prefer to handle it when it pops up again. 

The suggestion to checkout YouTube is an excellent one, as there are thousands of photography videos on virtually every topic. Also checkout Adorama's videos at their learning center. 

As for sticking with just ISO 400, that's a major mistake. ISO is one part of the 3 leg exposure triangle. Learning how to use all three legs correctly, and  to your advantage will make your life so much easier. Insisting to only use one ISO because a Professional Photographer does just doesn't make any sense.


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