# Where do I develop B&W film in Utah?



## xxx_jpk_xxx (Mar 5, 2009)

I'm looking for a place that develops traditional black & white film in Utah (not C-41 process). I live in the Taylorsville/West Jordan area, so a place that's somewhere close to that would be nice, but I also have no problem with driving to downtown SLC or Sandy. I've tried finding places on my own, and so far the only places that I can really find are Inkley's and Nichols (and Inkley's is WAY too expensive, where Nichols is 5 bucks per roll). So far it looks like Nichols is my best (and only) choice, but hopefully there's a place closer to me.

Any help is appreciated. Thank you!


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## randerson07 (Mar 5, 2009)

Walmart has a send out service for Black and White, but its right around $5-6 a roll and takes up to 14 days. If that Nichols place is close by and does a decent job, i would go there instead.


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## Mike_E (Mar 5, 2009)

Umm, how about your bathroom?


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## xxx_jpk_xxx (Mar 5, 2009)

randerson07 said:


> Walmart has a send out service for Black and White, but its right around $5-6 a roll and takes up to 14 days. If that Nichols place is close by and does a decent job, i would go there instead.



Nichols does a great job. My friend refuses to develop and print his film anywhere else.

And Mike_E, I actually looked into buying some dark room equipment, but it's just a little too pricey for my budget. I may start saving up for it, though. It sounds like a really useful thing to have around, especially with how much I photograph.


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## Seefutlung (Mar 5, 2009)

All you need is a developing tank and a thermometer then scrounge around for a few jugs and you're in business.

$50 tops and you're developing in your bathroom.

Gary


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## xxx_jpk_xxx (Mar 5, 2009)

I've got that and the chemicals picked out, but it comes to about $110. If anyone can reccomend me some equipment that's pretty cheap and just the basics, I'd appreciate it. I'll probably buy a two-roll tank so I can be a little more efficient with my time, so I can't cut corners on that.


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## Seefutlung (Mar 5, 2009)

xxx_jpk_xxx said:


> I've got that and the chemicals picked out, but it comes to about $110. If anyone can reccomend me some equipment that's pretty cheap and just the basics, I'd appreciate it. I'll probably buy a two-roll tank so I can be a little more efficient with my time, so I can't cut corners on that.


 
What comes to $110?  A two reel tank gotta be artound 30-35 (plastic tanks run around 20) and a decent thermometer ... say 10-15.


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## xxx_jpk_xxx (Mar 5, 2009)

There's the chemicals, for one. Those total up pretty high. And a film retriever. Here, I'll list what I found:

Developer

Stop Bath

Fixer

Wetting Agent

Film Retriever

Measuring Jug (I would never measure chemicals in my cookware)

Thermometer

Two Reel Tank

I was able to bring the price down to about $90 by only including these things, but I don't think I could narrow down any more and I don't know where else to purchase these materials for cheap.


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## Seefutlung (Mar 5, 2009)

Developer
Don't buy pre-mixed developer. 

Buy dry - to make 1 gal Kodak D-76 $6.09 
http://www.freestylephoto.biz/sc_search.php?rfnc=301


Stop Bath
Don't need stop ... just rinse two or three times

Fixer
To make 1 gal Kodak Fixer $5.79
Kodak Fixer Powder To Make 1 Gallon | Freestyle Photographic Supplies


Wetting Agent
16oz $6.65
Kentmere Kentflo 200 Wetting Agent - 16 ounce | Freestyle Photographic Supplies


Film Retriever
Dude, you don't need a film retriever. Either use a can opener, or what we used to do is just rip open the cassette with your bare hands (not all that hard, start by wedging your thumb into the film slot and then pry/peel the cassette back. Leave the open film cassettes laying around so the next person to to see them all ripped up will thing you're a stud.)

Measuring Jug (I would never measure chemicals in my cookware)

Just rinse it out ... no big deal ... it not like developer and fixer are radioactive spider venom ... just do it. Okay, then go down to the thrift/second hand shoppe and pick up a measuring cup for 50 cents, that will be all that you need.

Thermometer
Six Inch $3.99
Legacy Pro 6 inch Glass Thermometer | Freestyle Photographic Supplies

I get $23.02 for all the chemicals and misc. hardware to start. Just make sure you rinse out the film extremely well after the fix cause you don't have any money allocated for a hypo clearing agent.

One SS developing tank $23.99
Arista Stainless Steel 16 oz. Film Developing Tank (PVC top) and two 35mm x 36 exp. reels | Freestyle Photographic Supplies

This is the best tank for developing because it uses the least amount of developer and fixer. Problem is that you will lose a few frames everytime you develop until you get the knack of rolling the film on the reel ... 

Let's see: 
chemicals and hardware $23.02
SS tank 23.99

Total $47.01 and you are developing film (Plus shipping)

Remember to always hang the film in the shower to dry. The shower is the most dust free area in the house.

Gary

PS-  Freestyle may not be the cheapest ... but it is where I used to shop when I was into film.  Adora prices ... while appearing cheaper is only for quart size quantities.
G


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## xxx_jpk_xxx (Mar 5, 2009)

Wow. Thank you SO much, Gary. You know, I think I'm actually going to go through with it and buy everything. I know it'll end up pretty much paying for itself soon.

I really do appreciate this. I'm going to enjoy it so much (and so will all my friends who will be using it).


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## randerson07 (Mar 5, 2009)

Everyone has their way, I prefer to mix in one shot amounts, I reuse Fix and Stop(if I use stop at all, mostly I use water), So I prefer HC110 or Rodinal, but I would also recommend on the cheap side, Arista Developer 

Same with Fixer Arista Fixer 

I have this tank, works for 2 35mm rolls or 1 120 roll and the reels are adjustable

I bought this thermometer

This Graduate

And 3 of these 

Comes to $50.62  theres a million choices and none are wrong just make sure you dont forget anything.

I personally dont use a film retriever I just make sure to leave some film handing out when I wind my film back up, in my more modern camera there is a function to leave the leader out which I always use as well.

I havent done it, but Ive heard instead of photo flo you can get by with a drop of dish washing liquid.

Let us know how you get on, and post up results when you do you first roll.


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## xxx_jpk_xxx (Mar 5, 2009)

I will definitely post my results. I just have to talk my mom into allowing me to do this in my bathroom... I've pretty much got her to the point that she'll allow it, though.

Also, how would I go about getting a more high-contrast result in my film? I love when black and white film has a really high contrast.


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## Seefutlung (Mar 5, 2009)

xxx_jpk_xxx said:


> Wow. Thank you SO much, Gary. You know, I think I'm actually going to go through with it and buy everything. I know it'll end up pretty much paying for itself soon.
> 
> I really do appreciate this. I'm going to enjoy it so much (and so will all my friends who will be using it).


 
No problem ... I think you start out with D-76 as a standard ... then experiment with other developers after you've hit a comfort level with D-76.

One of the best cost savings is to buy film in 100' roll (bulk) ... a bulk film loader and a handfull of re-useable cassettes.  Loading your own film will save you a ton of money.  

If you don't have a changing bag ... then I suggest to load the developing tank at night ... just make sure you block all/any light leaks (i.e. a towel at the bottom of the door, some foil and tape anywhere else ... in the beginning it is much easier to develop when you have a little elbow room).

Good Luck,
Gary


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## saycheese76 (Mar 6, 2009)

+1 to what the other posters said.  I think you are going to have a blast.  Good luck!


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## terri (Mar 6, 2009)

xxx_jpk_xxx said:


> I will definitely post my results. I just have to talk my mom into allowing me to do this in my bathroom... I've pretty much got her to the point that she'll allow it, though.
> 
> Also, how would I go about getting a more high-contrast result in my film? I love when black and white film has a really high contrast.


You are getting good advice here.  Developing your own B&W film is incredibly easy and inexpensive. Honestly, the only thing that takes some getting used to is loading the film onto the reels, since this is the only part that has to be done in total darkness. But you can practice on a film strip so you can see where it needs to go and get the feel of winding it up, etc. Do it in daylight a few times, then practice in darkness before you actually have an exposed roll. If you have comfort level with this part, the rest is a piece of cake, as everything is done in daylight.

Remember you can save more $$ by buying cheap kitchen measuring cups at any discount store. Photography stores sell them, of course, but it all does the same thing.  

The only thing you might want a darkroom for is when you decide to print your own enlargements. Different animal. Right here on TPF there is a B&W film development guide, in several parts, written by Torus34 - go check it out in the Articles section. It is an excellent guide, and he is a great source. 

Regarding adding some contrast to your film....that is done at the time of exposure, using colored filters. Yellow, orange and red are the usual ones. Experiment! Have fun.


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## Mike_E (Mar 6, 2009)

All right!!

BTW  a $0.75 quart bottle of hydrogen peroxide is the same material as the $3 storage bottle in the shops.  Buy three of those and dump out the peroxide and rinse thoroughly and you've saved another 7 or 8 bucks.


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## bhop (Mar 6, 2009)

I agree that developing it yourself is the way to go, but nobody has mentioned that once they're dry, to digitize your photos, you're going to need a film scanner, (they're pretty cheap these days for flatbeds) or if you want traditional prints, you're going to have to send the b/w film out for those..


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## xxx_jpk_xxx (Mar 6, 2009)

Thanks everyone! As far as making scans of my photos, I can actually either pay Costco to do that for me for fairly cheap or I can take pictures of the prints I make with my D40. Either way works well enough for me. And I heard that you can make prints of B&W film anywhere that does color film, since all they do is scan the photos on to the computer and print from that.


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## bhop (Mar 6, 2009)

xxx_jpk_xxx said:


> Thanks everyone! As far as making scans of my photos, I can actually either pay Costco to do that for me for fairly cheap or I can take pictures of the prints I make with my D40. Either way works well enough for me. And I heard that you can make prints of B&W film anywhere that does color film, since all they do is scan the photos on to the computer and print from that.



Sounds like you're set then.  Good luck and have fun.


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## xxx_jpk_xxx (Mar 24, 2009)

Ok, I know it's been a while since I said I would get everything for developing my own film, but due to some financial issues that popped up, I had to wait. I finally had enough money today to actually buy everything, though, so I went ahead and jumped right into it. I got everything I need (including a changing bag, which most people probably don't think is necessary) for $60. I should have my first roll of self-developed film done within the next two weeks. I'm really excited.

But for now, I must stick to C-41 process film. Some of it doesn't look too bad, though:





This was taken with Ilford XP2 Super film. What do you think for a beginner with film?


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## blash (Mar 24, 2009)

xxx_jpk_xxx said:


> Ok, I know it's been a while since I said I would get everything for developing my own film, but due to some financial issues that popped up, I had to wait. I finally had enough money today to actually buy everything, though, so I went ahead and jumped right into it. I got everything I need (including a changing bag, which most people probably don't think is necessary) for $60. I should have my first roll of self-developed film done within the next two weeks. I'm really excited.
> 
> But for now, I must stick to C-41 process film. Some of it doesn't look too bad, though:
> 
> ...



Not bad - interesting for a silhouette. Have you done any fine-arts-esque photography before (maybe with digital?) and you're just starting on film or are you entering the world of photography through the film medium first?

Which filter did you use here?


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## xxx_jpk_xxx (Mar 24, 2009)

blash said:


> Not bad - interesting for a silhouette. Have you done any fine-arts-esque photography before (maybe with digital?) and you're just starting on film or are you entering the world of photography through the film medium first?
> 
> Which filter did you use here?



Thank you very much.  I've done tons and tons with digital. I've been doing digital for a couple years now, but I decided that I was getting a little bored of it and I bought myself a Minolta SRT-101. So yes, I'm just starting in film photography (and I absolutely love it). I used a Quantaray R2 filter. My lens was a little bent on the outer rim, so I kinda had to force the filter on there. It's still not on correctly, but it does its job.


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## xxx_jpk_xxx (Mar 27, 2009)

Ok guys, I finally got everything in the mail. I actually just finished developing my first roll, and it was REALLY fun and easy. Definitely a lot easier than I had planned. I'm pretty proud of how they turned out, too. I got almost exactly the look I was hoping for, so I'm pleased. Here are a few from the roll:



















​Feedback is more than welcome. I hope you guys enjoy these.


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## 2ART (Mar 27, 2009)

Well done! :thumbup:


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## xxx_jpk_xxx (Mar 27, 2009)

2ART said:


> Well done! :thumbup:



Thank you.


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## Seefutlung (Mar 28, 2009)

Yes ... well done .. you are one of the few people that is going from digital to film. My film education has helped me most in B&W conversion. Most people do not know what to look for ... or what elements are needed for a good B&W ... processing and printing B&W will go a long way in helping tyou develop a good B&W conversion eye. After you get very comfortable with developing ... remember that you can expose and develop to get the most out of particular zones ... like highlights (of course the shadows will fall off). You can also develop in a manner that minimizes grain ... I would barely agitate the development tank.

But first get comfortable and standardize your development before experimenting.

Gary


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