# 1st DSLR



## Instastitch (Mar 20, 2013)

I am looking a buying my 1st DSLR. The Sony A57 comes in mind, but my question is I don't have any experience in anything other than jpg's, so, how is the Raw file format for this 3x? I will be needing to use this for fast action sports, weddings and some portfolio's.

I have found 2 lenses that look nice for what I need.



*Minolta 50mm f1.7 AF Lens by Minolta**Permalink:* Amazon.com: Minolta 50mm f1.7 AF Lens: Camera & Photo




*80-200mm f4.5-5.6 MINOLTA AF ZOOOM LENS MAXXUM DYNAX SONY ALPHA KONICA CAMERASby Minolta**Permalink:* Amazon.com: 80-200mm f4.5-5.6 MINOLTA AF ZOOOM LENS MAXXUM DYNAX SONY ALPHA KONICA CAMERAS: Camera & Photo





thoughts?


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## ConradM (Mar 20, 2013)

I'm not really sure what you're asking but, I generally don't shoot in RAW because there usually isn't much to correct. It helps when you can see the exposure in real time through the viewfinder.


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## DiskoJoe (Mar 20, 2013)

The 50mm from Minolta is a good buy. I have one of those and its great for portraits or low light shooting at night. Now the zoom you are looking at is completely sub par for anytype of sports photography. You want a zoom that will hit at least 2.8 or a larger aperture or youll never be able to freeze action properly. Id tell you to look at a 135mm f1.8 but its way out of your range. You might look for look for a used Tamron 70-200 f2.8.


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## Instastitch (Mar 20, 2013)

ConradM said:


> I'm not really sure what you're asking but, I generally don't shoot in RAW because there usually isn't much to correct. It helps when you can see the exposure in real time through the viewfinder.



I was told if you want to raise the light/color/make a black and white etc, use the raw image, its not compressed and has more room to edit.


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## Instastitch (Mar 20, 2013)

I have found both online, nice lenses, how to do feel about the detail and color on the sony versus cannon/nikon?


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## DiskoJoe (Mar 20, 2013)

This sigma is a pretty decent deal. ONly bad thing about the old sigmas is that the AF is usually not quite what it used to be but APO glass is a nice way to go. Very sharp and with the 9 blade aperture the bokeh is very smooth. 

Sigma EX APO 70 200mm F 2 8 Lens for Sony Minolta Good Condition 0085126568344 | eBay


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## Instastitch (Mar 20, 2013)

DiskoJoe said:


> This sigma is a pretty decent deal.
> 
> Sigma EX APO 70 200mm F 2 8 Lens for Sony Minolta Good Condition 0085126568344 | eBay



Very nice lens.

Im kinda half n half on the sony fence atm, is it me or do the colors from all the sony pics seem to be somewhat flat?


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## DiskoJoe (Mar 20, 2013)

Instastitch said:


> ConradM said:
> 
> 
> > I'm not really sure what you're asking but, I generally don't shoot in RAW because there usually isn't much to correct. It helps when you can see the exposure in real time through the viewfinder.
> ...



Correct. Good advice. I shoot everything in raw so I can twerk it more.


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## Instastitch (Mar 20, 2013)

DiskoJoe said:


> *The 50mm from Minolta is a good buy*. I have one of those and its great for portraits or low light shooting at night. Now the zoom you are looking at is completely sub par for anytype of sports photography.* You want a zoom that will hit at least 2.8 or a larger aperture or youll never be able to freeze action properly*. Id tell you to look at a 135mm f1.8 but its way out of your range. You might look for look for a used Tamron 70-200 f2.8.



The prime is a f1.7 and I plan on using it for vert ramp angles like http://i1067.photobucket.com/albums/u427/msllim/378246_4370876590984_1111727908_n_zps157e1adb.jpg
(NOTE: This was taken with a Nikon D3100 W/Fisheye)

the frame is a 1.7 on the prime, why does the zoom have to be at 2.8? Sorry Im a bit uneducated at DSLR with detachable lenses.


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## DiskoJoe (Mar 20, 2013)

Instastitch said:


> DiskoJoe said:
> 
> 
> > This sigma is a pretty decent deal.
> ...



Ivwe been shooting sony for years. I have no problem getting the colors to do what I want. You might have to push them a bit in post processing. 




Mission Upload: Complete ! by DiskoJoe, on Flickr



pink sky 3 by DiskoJoe, on Flickr


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## DiskoJoe (Mar 20, 2013)

Instastitch said:


> DiskoJoe said:
> 
> 
> > *The 50mm from Minolta is a good buy*. I have one of those and its great for portraits or low light shooting at night. Now the zoom you are looking at is completely sub par for anytype of sports photography.* You want a zoom that will hit at least 2.8 or a larger aperture or youll never be able to freeze action properly*. Id tell you to look at a 135mm f1.8 but its way out of your range. You might look for look for a used Tamron 70-200 f2.8.
> ...



The smaller the aperture number the larger the hole is that lets in light (inverse relationship). basically 2.8 will shoot faster the f4.5. For vert you might want to look into getting a wide angle like a 10-20 or a fisheye. Fisheye is a really limited lens though. 

See chart for details. 
http://www.photography-101.co.uk/wp-content/uploads/2011/12/example-aperture-chart.jpg


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## Instastitch (Mar 20, 2013)

DiskoJoe said:


> Instastitch said:
> 
> 
> > DiskoJoe said:
> ...



So the prime will work for vert, but I need to find a faster zoom? The fisheye im not 100% on, I have been using Gimp, and I can add that effect in a click.


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## DiskoJoe (Mar 20, 2013)

Instastitch said:


> DiskoJoe said:
> 
> 
> > Instastitch said:
> ...



A faster zoom would be good for sports and the added DOF is nice to have for other applications too. All of my lenses are 2.8 or larger with the exception of my 10-20 which is a f3.5.


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## o hey tyler (Mar 20, 2013)

DiskoJoe said:


> A faster zoom would be good for sports and the added DOF is nice to have for other applications too. All of my lenses are 2.8 or larger with the exception of my 10-20 which is a f3.5.



You don't add depth of field or background compression with a telephoto lens, subject isolation is increased.


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## Instastitch (Mar 20, 2013)

background compression? eh?


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## o hey tyler (Mar 21, 2013)

Instastitch said:


> background compression? eh?



Yes, thanks for pointing that out. I actually did misspeak there. Longer lenses do compress elements and don't allow you to get a feel of the space surrounding your subject. The background is generally blurry with a sharp focus on the subject. Depth of field isn't increased with a longer lens, which I think Joe kind of implied.


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## ConradM (Mar 21, 2013)

Instastitch said:


> ConradM said:
> 
> 
> > I'm not really sure what you're asking but, I generally don't shoot in RAW because there usually isn't much to correct. It helps when you can see the exposure in real time through the viewfinder.
> ...



As far as I understood, shooting in RAW is more of a fail safe in case you need to correct something. I've tried it and I can see the value, but again, exposure and WB is pretty easy to get spot on with the EVF.


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## DiskoJoe (Mar 22, 2013)

o hey tyler said:


> DiskoJoe said:
> 
> 
> > A faster zoom would be good for sports and the added DOF is nice to have for other applications too. All of my lenses are 2.8 or larger with the exception of my 10-20 which is a f3.5.
> ...



There is added depth of field when you go from a variable aperture of 4.5 - 5.6 to a constant aperture of 2.8 though.


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## DiskoJoe (Mar 22, 2013)

Instastitch said:


> background compression? eh?



terminology - What is background compression? - Photography


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## o hey tyler (Mar 22, 2013)

DiskoJoe said:


> There is added depth of field when you go from a variable aperture of 4.5 - 5.6 to a constant aperture of 2.8 though.



How is there added DoF when you're getting a lens with a larger aperture?


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## HughGuessWho (Mar 22, 2013)

DiskoJoe said:


> There is added depth of field when you go from a variable aperture of 4.5 - 5.6 to a constant aperture of 2.8 though.



Huh?


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