# Hasselblad Collection from Parents



## Bigguy136 (Jan 8, 2017)

My dad passed away a few years ago and my mom wants to sell off their wedding photo equipment. I called National Camera because that is where most of the cameras were bought from. I emailed them some photos and waiting to hear back from them.
I've also watched Ebay but the price jumps around a lot and I don't know why one costs so much more than another of the same model.
Could anyone give me an approximate price so I know National Camera is being fair or not?
Thanks!
1- 500EL/M
1- 500C/M
1- 500 EL


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## astroNikon (Jan 8, 2017)

@Derrel @tirediron 
they should have a good idea


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## tirediron (Jan 8, 2017)

To be honest, I'm really not up on the price of this gear any more...  remember that there are two prices though; the price that National will offer you is going to be between 25 and 40% below expected retail.  If you want maximum money than a consignment sale at a local brick & mortar store is your best bet, if you want a quick sale, than National or a similar place is your best bet.


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## Bigguy136 (Jan 8, 2017)

tirediron said:


> To be honest, I'm really not up on the price of this gear any more...  remember that there are two prices though; the price that National will offer you is going to be between 25 and 40% below expected retail.  If you want maximum money than a consignment sale at a local brick & mortar store is your best bet, if you want a quick sale, than National or a similar place is your best bet.



Thanks,
Sounds like National Camera won't be trying to screw someone. I know they need to make a profit on what they buy to off-set some bad purchases and keeping the lights on.
I should hear from them this week.

Thanks again


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## Derrel (Jan 8, 2017)

No longer up on Hassy prices. My gut says to go to e-Bay _only after waiting_ another couple of months, as spring gets here, and people actually have the real opportunity to get out and to SHOOT film. Today, there's a winter storm all across the USA and Europe...not a lot of early-January film opps out there.

As mentioned, YES, a real, actual brick & mortar store at 15,16,17 percent commission is a good place. people get into a camera store, like ProPhoto Supply, and the environment is FILLED with camera-centric cues! And sales people who LOVE the products! Used gear can be sold well by actual sales folk, in a camera store.

Consider too: e-Bay fees and PayPal cuts your final, net price down, way down....so in-store a 16% commission is FAIR.


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## Dave Colangelo (Jan 9, 2017)

I just bought a full hasselblad setup (found in the wild) and have been buying components for it for the past 6 months so I have a fair idea on price. Some of the prices Im going to list here are a bit low but they reflect what I have personally paid for the gear in the past 6 months and what I feel the gear will actually sell for and not just sit around. Here's what I will say

The 500C/M is the most desirable camera you have IMO and prices are all over the place on them. Generally speaking if its been sitting around unused that will count against you. Most of these cameras need at least a CLA before you start using them again and that right there is $200 from our good friend David Odess chances are they may need small repairs as well if they were used heavily. Your 500C/M with lens (your stock C 80mm) and a single film back as it sits may sell for $1200 but will most likely sit for some time, you can go to $900 but may sit around for the right buyer or might sell right away. If you start the bidding at $650 you can see where it goes but it will sell. You dont seem to have the waist level view finder with a lot of people like/look for. The truth is I paid well under $400 for mine with a load of accessories and the 80mm lens but I knew it needed a CLA (and discovered it needed some repairs as well in the process) so the price leveled out in the end. It really depends how fast you want to sell it.

The EL and EL/M's tend to be less desirable as they are not all mechanical and thus involve batteries and that ugly under body unit. This will reflect in the sale price and it may be harder to sell those units as people generally buy these cameras these days because they are all mechanical. I would be hard pressed to put a price on them but a guy I just bought a lens from on ebay had one listed for 275 (no lens) and seemed to be having issues unloading it (he really wanted me to buy it). Just remember the EL/M was good enough to go to the moon so someone will want it.

The film backs generally fetch 50-100 depending on condition and if you have the matched dark slide. The big film back you have is for the 70mm film which was intended for studio use. My understanding is this film is hard to get in anything but bulk and you will then need a place to process it. I wont say worthless but that part will be hard to sell as I dont think anyone is really looking for them.

The lenses are all over the place:

You have a 50mm distagon (Early C style, gray paint not black). That may be your best lens, or at least one of the more sought after as its the widest practical lens for the V system (SWC asside). I just paid 295 for a C T* unit in flawless condition from the original owner with both lens caps. The non T* C lens you have is most likely worth in the $200-$250 range as it sits. If its really clean you may be able to get $300 for it.

You have a bunch of the 80mm's. Those were basically the standard lens on this camera so there are a lot of them floating around. Alone they are most likely worth 100-200 a piece depending on condition. The black 80mm C T* you have is slightly more valuable due to its coating but in reality many argue if that matters.

For reference I just bought a solid 250mm C for $100 and a 150mm CF for $100 as well.

I would say your Sonnor lens is most likely in the 100-300 range depending on condition.

You have 3 un-metered prisms I got a 45 degree with mine and its pretty nice. They tend to sell in the 75-100 range while the other two are most likely in the same range (maybe a bit lower) if they are clean. I would not separate them though unless you have waist level finders for the units.

The truth about this gear is its very eclectic and those who want it seek it out and generally will pay for it but generally those individuals tend to be few and far between and sales can be equally few and far between. While film is seeing a bit of a resurgence which will play in your favor the cameras are still big, bulky system cameras of a bygone era. All that being said I LOVE MY 500C/M!

A note on ebay prices:

Ebay reflects the world market and many people overlook the US Only filter when shopping. Many items are far easier to get here in the US and this the prices are lower. Some of the inflated prices are due to people paying a lot for items overseas where they can be harder to get. This can play in your favor if you are willing to deal with international shipping and international buyers.


If you have any questions feel free to contact me, I'd be happy to chat about all the stuff.

Depending on where you are located I may be interested in taking a look at some of the gear.

Here is my collection as it sat last night so you can get an idea of condition for comparison (Its in the original Hasselblad case as well which I paid $50 for).





Regards
Dave


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## Dave Colangelo (Jan 9, 2017)

Lens Testing:

I figured I would write a bit about testing the lenses for reference as well since its an important factor on these cameras. Unlike most SLR cameras the V series has its shutter in the lens (with a secondary non timed curtain in the body as well). Since the shutter is sealed in with the lens they are generally well kept and damage free as nothing can touch them like a shutter curtain in say a Nikon SLR. However over time the slow speeds, generally 1, 1/2,1/4, and  1/8 can slow down or get all together stuck when firing. You can tell by attaching a lens and firing it off listen closely and you should hear a consistent buzz noise from the timer. If its sticking you will hear it pretty obviously, you can also have the lenses tested for accuracy at the higher speeds if you have a shutter timer.

The hasselblad system is *MOST VULNERABLE TO DAMAGE WHEN CHANGING LENSES* please make sure you FULLY understand how to change (and potentially cock released lenses) before attempting anything.

Please NOTE:

The lens must be cocked prior to mounting.
The Body must be cocked prior to mounting OR removing a lens.    

You should take a look at the aperture blades in bulb mode (or during DOF preview) to make sure they are moving as they should.

Much like the bodies the lenses can be overhauled but keep this in mind when valuing them.

With some of the lenses, firing a few times may get the mechanisms moving again and you may be able to work out the sticking. In some cases the springs will be worn or the oil will be really gummed up and it will need a full on overhaul. You can check out my somewhat messy attempt at overhauling a lost case 500mm Appo-tesar here 

Regards
Dave


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## Dave Colangelo (Jan 10, 2017)

I hope your not sick of me yet!

A few more things to check:

The 500 C/M had the ability to easily swap view screens. The Matte-D screen is considered brighter and generally "better" than the stock screen. If you camera has one of these it will increase the value a bit and you should list it in your auction as its a bonus for sure. You can check by sliding out the eye piece and posting a picture of the screen. 

Fire the cameras with the film backs off and make sure the rear curtain is fully opening, the top has a tendency to sag and will cause an image problem. This was one of the issues with my unit.

Make sure that when you are advancing the camera the film back numbers are advancing (even with no film in there).

The film lever should advance fairly easily with no film in there. If you are seeing a lot of resistance there may be an issue.

You should be able to roll the advance wheel partially forward and let go. The wheel should NOT roll back as there is a cam that holds it in place. If it does roll back that will indicate an issue (one of the issues with my unit as well)

Check the EL battery packs for corrosion from leaked batteries which can be a killer.

As mentioned earlier, the accessories for these cameras as almost as valuable as the cameras them selves at this point. Since they are all more or less out of production, second hand is the only way to get stuff. If you have other things in the lot not pictured here they may be quite valuable as well. 

Things that are generally valuable 
- View finders (all styles, prices vary)
- Screens (various patterns out there) 
- A12 Film Backs 
- Dark Slides
- Broken cameras for parts
- Advance Cranks 
- A16 film back
- Side mount level 
- Original strap (it has some specific mounting hardware)


Things that are less sought after but you still may be able to sell
- Hasselblad hard cases 
- Original flash unit (I have one, its quite unwieldy and requires individual bulbs)
- Hasselblad tripod quick release (useless as pretty much all tripods are quick release now)
- Polaroid back (its hard to even source the film)
- A24 Back (220 film is basically out of production)   

I did some more ebay hunting and I can see a lot of EL/M bodies out here in the 275-400 buy it now range with NO lenses. You may want to try listing it with the lens for the 375 - 475 range. If it just sits and really does not sell it may eventually be worth selling the lens on its own.

Regards
Dave


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## CarlH (Jan 11, 2017)

Another test for the shutter is to attach a flash to it and fire the shutter, if the flash doesn't go off it means the leaf shutter isn't opening fully due to a broken spring.


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## webestang64 (Jan 11, 2017)

That is one nice little collection.


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## Frank F. (Jan 11, 2017)

That is a wonderful beautiful collection. You are sure you want to sell it? Eben I as someone who does not like Hasselblad am attracted to this!!!!


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## Bigguy136 (Mar 9, 2017)

Dave,

Thank you so much for your time and expertise. I've been away some and feel very bad I didn't thank you sooner for all of your time.
I will be back on this project and should be getting things tested and on Ebay soon.

Thanks again, BG


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## nickgillespie (Mar 13, 2017)

Keh (dot) com is always pretty spot on. Roberts photo also has a used section that is a good reference point.


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## Dave Colangelo (Mar 13, 2017)

Bigguy136 said:


> Dave,
> 
> Thank you so much for your time and expertise. I've been away some and feel very bad I didn't thank you sooner for all of your time.
> I will be back on this project and should be getting things tested and on Ebay soon.
> ...



No worries, always happy to help, let me know if you have any more questions. You have a really nice collection here and if you are at all into photography its worth keeping!

Regards
Dave


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## denada (Mar 14, 2017)

if it's not equipment you use, ebay might be a lot of work.

whether you sell it via ebay or not, you can search sold listings in advanced search to see what it actually sells at. ebay is full of camera equipment priced to never sell.

even with equipment i do use and can describe perfectly, i still sell on craigslist for a little less than the item sells for on ebay. it's really, really easy with cash, no packaging, no trips to the post office, no feedback, and no return requests. if you live near a major city, hasselblad equipment will sell on craigslist in reasonable time.

also it's cool to sell equipment to a local photographer without letting big business take a cut.


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