# Not sure about my lens



## Pratoman (Jul 9, 2015)

im new at this, posted once or twice before. 
Have a new Nikon D3200, just learning to use it. Took a couple of lessons, sort of understand the exposure triangle, but still, every shot I take seems to be an experiment. 

To the point - I dropped the camera, broke the kit lens (18-55mm). I am going to Alaska (cruise) and wanted more telephoto,. I decided instead of buying a new 18-55, AND a ne 55-200 telephoto, I would rather have one all purpose lens so I don't have to keep changing lenses in Alaska. So I bought a Tamron 18-270.
Now I'm having buyers remorse. It's hard to carry around, and I seem to not get great crisp focus in my shots, as I did in ten 18-55.

Did I make a mistake in lens purchase, or am I missing something in how I shoot? 
What are my options? When out in Alaska, off the ship, or even walking around Manhattan, should I take just the camera, or should I carry the case (it's a compact case,fits the camera and lens, an extra battery, and the cable. )

I am obviously lost.


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## tirediron (Jul 9, 2015)

"Ultra-zooms" are like a Swiss Army knife; they do a lot, but they don't necessarily do any of it really well, so some issues such as increased CA, softness, and distortion, especially at either end of the zoom range is normal.  A common mistake newer photographers make, especially when shooting longer focal lengths is too low a shutter speed.  A guideline for minimum shutter-speed is 1/FL, in other words, if your focal length is 250mm, then your lowest hand-holdable shutter-speed is around 1/250th of a second.  Also make sure you know where you're focusing...  "missed focus" or allowing the camera to make the decision about where the point of critical focus should be causes a lot of problems too.

Posting a couple of images and indicating the issues you see will help diagnose any potential problems.


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## Solarflare (Jul 10, 2015)

Superzooms are ANYTHING but a swiss army knife. Superzooms are highly specialized tools that offer a lot of focal range variance, but very little else. No image quality, no brightness, and no autofocusing performance either.

The most tolerable of this species seems to be the Nikon 18-300mm f3.5-6.3. The Tamron 18-270mm however is probably the worst piece of glas you can get. Dont expect much image quality for it. Or anything else. Its just focal length variance, not much else.

The swiss army knife of lenses is _a good selection of lenses_. Like, say:
- Tokina 11-16mm f2.8, or Sigma 8-16mm f4.5-5.6
- Sigma 17-50mm f2.8 OS, or Nikon AF-S 16-85mm f3.5-5.6 VR DX, or Nikon AF-S 18-105mm f3.5-5.6 VR DX
- Nikon AF-S 35mm f1.8 DX
- Tamron 90mm f2.8 VC macro, or Nikon AF-S 85mm f3.5 VR DX micro
- Nikon AF-S 70-300mm f4.5-5.6 VR [Yes thats an FX lens]

Thats a lens for every occasion - Wide Angle Zoom, Normal Zoom, A bright prime for lowlight and general IQ, a macro, and a high performance telephoto zoom with an autofocus thats strong enough for sports.


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## Pratoman (Jul 10, 2015)

So then whats the answer? If I'm in a helicopter, or sailing thru the Inside Passage, or walking around Vancouver BC, do I have 2 lenses and constantly switch back and forth? This is what i am trying to figure out. I could probably return the lens its a month old and i still have the box. But I'm afraid to be switching lenses all the time that i will miss good shots. 
As a newbie, I'm curious how do you guys handle that?


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## Bryston3bsst (Jul 10, 2015)

I have not used the Tamron 18-270 so I cannot speak directly to that. But I used to have a Canon 18-200 that would cause me to strongly disagree with Solarflare. That was a very versatile lens that returned great image quality at any focal length. 

Have a bag full of 5 or 6 lenses and haul that tub of crap around through airports, hikes in the mountains, on crowded city streets......uh huh, I'll do that. Nonsense. You most assuredly don't need to go to that length to bring home great pictures.

I have always used glass from the same company that made my camera. I know there are a lot of shooters here that are using non OEM glass and are getting fantastic results with it. So you may, with some practice, start getting better results with this particular Tamron.

I think tirediron has a very good point with regard to shooting at long focal lengths. Most people don't consider the math that's at work when shooting at say 200+mm. How little movement of the camera amplifies itself at the greater distance. I just did a very unscientific experiment sitting here at my desk. I moved an 18 inch long ruler on a pivot at one end. I moved it up 1mm, at the other end it moved up a distance of 8mm. So my movement was amplified 8 times. And that's only at a foot and a half of length. Think of the amplification when you're aiming at something 100 yards away.

I think you at least need to spend more time practicing and getting used to your equipment. Hopefully you have time to do so before your trip.

By the way, how did you drop your camera when you had the strap around your neck? You _were _using the strap.......weren't you?


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## Jasii (Jul 10, 2015)

Your post indicates your desire to shoot good good pics. If you are new to the camera, fall in love with it, handle it like you'd a small baby,   get shooting and than look at your own shots and list out what you like and what you don't. And of course share your results with friends and in forums like this would help too.
Since you already own the AIO Tammy, it would be nice to know what it can do and what it can't and try and see if you can live with it's limitation curve, else you can always swap it for something nicer.
Jasii


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## SCraig (Jul 10, 2015)

Pratoman said:


> As a newbie, I'm curious how do you guys handle that?


Depends on the situation.  Two bodies, two lenses when I don't have time to switch lenses between shots.  One body, two lenses when I do have time to change lenses between shots.  Decide what the circumstances will dictate and choose a single lens accordingly when I know what I'm getting into.

Nobody said that using a camera with interchangeable lenses was easy, only that they create better photographs.  You pay for that ability by having to switch lenses to accommodate the conditions.


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## tirediron (Jul 10, 2015)

Pratoman said:


> So then whats the answer? If I'm in a helicopter, or sailing thru the Inside Passage, or walking around Vancouver BC, do I have 2 lenses and constantly switch back and forth? This is what i am trying to figure out. I could probably return the lens its a month old and i still have the box. But I'm afraid to be switching lenses all the time that i will miss good shots.
> As a newbie, I'm curious how do you guys handle that?


 My answer is to use multiple bodies with different lenses mounted.  IMO, buying a DSLR and a super-zoom means you're missing the primary benefit of having a DSLR; that is:  The ability to change lenses.  When multiple bodies aren't the answer, then pre-planning is.  If you're in an aircraft, or on a boat, chances are you're NOT going to need 18mm; you're probably not going to need 50 or 75mm; you're going to need 150, 200, or (ideally) even more.  Walking around Vancouver, well...  you're more likely to want wider so, mount your short lens.


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## FITBMX (Jul 10, 2015)

I just switch lenses, you can get rather fast at it. Sometimes you will miss a shot, but that's just how it goes.


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## FITBMX (Jul 10, 2015)

Also if you are getting blur in low light areas, you could get a good monopod. It would be better than freehand, and it wouldn't be a cumbersome as a tripod.


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## raventepes (Jul 10, 2015)

I keep a 2 lens shooting solution for wandering around and travel. Simply an 18-105 and a 70-300. You can get most everything with that combination, short of birds in flight, or other far off (or small) subjects. 

Yes, sometimes I miss a shot. It happens. But here's my perspective on it. I'd rather take a good shot than a mediocre one by using less than desirable optics. Granted, sometimes I need different equipment, but that's where (as tirediron suggests) pre-planning comes in. Know what kinds of things you want to photograph before you leave your front door.


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## Rob5589 (Jul 10, 2015)

A couple different friends have done AK cruises and 99% of their shots were from long distances. I get great shots with my Nikon 70-300, purchased barely used from KEH. For around town shots I really like my Sigma 17-50. Definitely masks my lack of ability


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## pjaye (Jul 10, 2015)

I'm going to have to disagree with what people are saying about that specific Tamron lens (18-270) I have had that lens for almost two years. It almost never comes off my Nikon D7100. I LOVE that lens and get crystal clear, sharp shots with it all the time. It has never let me down. If you are having issues, I'm going to say you got a bad lens. 

I have had zero issues with mine and I shoot almost exclusively wildlife. However I've also done a wedding and several people shoots with it.


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## FITBMX (Jul 10, 2015)

I looked up the Tamron 18-270, and it doesn't cost a whole lot, and gets a lot of good reviews. So I am sure it is well worth keeping around. If it continues to take blurry shots, there maybe a problem with it, and you should get a replacement from the store were you got it.


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## KmH (Jul 10, 2015)

Reviews of that lens by respected web sites indicate some important cons and not much pro:


> *Conclusion - Cons*
> 
> Slow and occasionally indecisive autofocus
> Geometric distortion across much of the zoom range
> ...


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## Pratoman (Jul 10, 2015)

Thanks guys (and gals). 
I walked around Manhattan today shooting, mostly in Central Park. I still don't really know what I'm doing, but I think I got some decent shots. And some not so good. Based on the comments above from simply barb, I think a lot f it is me.not the lens.8 need to practice practice practice. And read. Then practice some more.
My trip is next week, and I don't want to make any rash decisions, like I did with the Tamron in question, because I was going south in a few days. So worst case, if I can't get up to speed, I'll just put the camera on auto when in Alaska and Vancouver, to give myself the best chance of shots that work. And I'll continue to learn when I get home.

I sent a link to my pics to my son who is somewhat into photography. And I'll try to upload some pics here if I can figure it out over the weekend.
I really appreciate the advice.
Thank you


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## Pratoman (Jul 11, 2015)

So here is a link to my smugmug page.  WWW.kennyg.smugmug.com.  
If anyone has the time or inclination, look at the gallery titled NYC & Central Park. After reviewing the pics, I am starting to think, not so bad (to my amateurish eye, of course). I especially like pictures number 22 & 39, the way I used the reflection of the water.

But the main thing is, aside from any cc, which would be welcome, is this lens doing the job for my Alaska trip, and is there anything I'm doing wrong.
The other galleries are there for you to browse as well if you are interested, but the one titled Roslyn Park, was done with my old 18-55mm that came with the camera. 

I'm using the Central Park gallery, so you can focus on one set of pictures and it is the most recent.

Any thoughts appreciated, eventually I learn how to upload just a couple of photos to this website for critique, but for now, this was the fastest way for me to get you guys some shots to look at


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## Rob5589 (Jul 11, 2015)

To my very untrained eye; images are soft, colors muted. There is one at 18mm (#9) that shows a bunch of distortion on the right side of the image. There are images at long focal distances that are soft/out of focus/shutter speed too slow for the movement. The rule of thumb is to keep your shutter speed at or slightly above the focal length. In many you are at say 270mm but a shutter speed of 1/100 as with the horse & buggy shots. Speed it up and you would probably get rid of that softness/blurriness.

Hopefully others with far more experience will come along with more info.


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## Pratoman (Jul 11, 2015)

Very helpful thanks answering on my phone now so I'll keep it short. Curious how do you know what the focal distance on the  lens is? Am my missing something I don't think it shows on smugmug

Also for just about all of these I'm using Aperture priority so the camera controls the shutter speed should be doing something differently most of these are still shots.

I got the book, "Understanding Exposure, my son gave it to me a while ago. I think its time to read it. Hopefully it will  help.


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## Rob5589 (Jul 11, 2015)

If you click on the "i" in the lower right corner below the pic, the exif, image data, will pop up.


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## Pratoman (Jul 11, 2015)

Didnt know that, thanks thats very helpful.

So to expound on what i said earlier, i always thought, and was taught, that its a good idea to use Shutterspeed priority for action shots, fast movement, etc. and to use Aperture priority for everything else. Your comments, Rob are making me rethink that. Any thoughts?

Also, do you let the camera figure out ISO? I was taught regarding ISO, that its the last thing to change.
Im going to take a look at your comments as i look at the shots mentioned, i think that will help mucho. And from your comments i am still thinking, that there is a lot more i can do, before i make a judgement on the lens.
Thanks


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## Rob5589 (Jul 11, 2015)

Again, not a pro so take that for what it's worth I generally use "A" most of the time myself. I wouldn't just say "S" is for "action" shots, more so for shots with movement. Like the horse and buggy shot. While it may be moving slowly, if you focus then shoot but the shutter speed isn't quick enough to capture at that focus point, then the focus point has changed thus creating your blurred shots. All it takes to blur the shot is a minute amount of movement, especially at longer distances.

You could try a tripod or monopod to help stabilize your shots. Do some Googling for camera holding techniques. I thought it was kinda goofy when I first started; just hold the camera and push the button. But, using the correct hold does make a considerable difference, it did for myself anyway.

I am using auto ISO, with a max of 1600 I think. I find it works well for my usage and ability.


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## Pratoman (Jul 11, 2015)

Thanks Rob. I like the general rule of thumb that you gave me on shutter speed needing to more or less match the focal length. Is there a similar rule of themb for Aperture, when in A priority mode? I find that to be such a guessing game.

I looked at the pictures with your comments, and i get what you are referring to about shutter speed and movement

I also got the book "Understanding Exposure" and i think its time to read through it. My son gave it to me as a gift.


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## Rob5589 (Jul 11, 2015)

Great book, have it myself. Need to re-read it. Nothing on A priority but, take a look at dofmaster.com, it may help you out.


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## Pratoman (Jul 12, 2015)

I guess providing a link, was not a good idea, as i only got feedback from one member - thanks Rob.. In the future i will figure out how to upload one or two pictures for comments. For now, I'm busy learning by reading some of the other threads here, and reading one of the books i bought, "Nikon D3200 - From Snapshots to Great Shots". When i am done, i'll read "Understanding Exposure", then I'll review the books and practice practice practice., shoot shoot shoot. Hopefully i wont squander an opportunity in Alaska.


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## Rob5589 (Jul 12, 2015)

Don't take it personally. My suggestion is to take more shots than you normally would. The beauty of digital is the ability to keep or toss pics with a simple click. Play around with different settings, too. Not every shot has to be "blow up" or "magazine" worthy to be a rememberance of a great trip.


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## jaomul (Jul 13, 2015)

I will probably echo most of what was said. I have seen great shots from superzooms and I believe the 18-270 to be highly regarded for what it is . However while great shots are possible, these optics have so much in them to do such a big range that they have to suffer somewhere. This is normally in focus speed and optics. They will likely be grand in good light for easy enough shots, but when the light gets challenging they wont hold up to lenses with less range in same price point.

I do think as well though that there may be some quality issues with this lens. If you bought it new and after some practice its still not great maybe try and get another. It is easy to blame equipment and most often the equipment is not to blame, but I have seen good reviews of this lens a few times, and also users who were not happy with it at all.

Either way a 2 lens set up though more inconvenient would probably be a better option, and the 18-105/70-300 set up is a good option. I quite like the 18-105, and a s akit lens think it covers a lot, chances are with this set up you wouldn't be changing lenses as often as you think. YMMV


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## Pratoman (Jul 13, 2015)

Jaomul, thanks for the advice. I'm going to stick to this lens for this trip. When I return, as I progress on the learning curve, I'll probably go to a 2 lens system, I can probably sell the lens on EBay at some point, and I only paid $339 net for it as Tamron was running a special $100 rebate at the time.

@Rib, thanks, not taking it personally at all, just thinking I shouldn't have asked anyone to critique me by looking at an entire gallery of photos.


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## Dave442 (Jul 13, 2015)

Regarding carrying the camera around, in Alaska I would just carry the camera and the Tamron, in NYC or other similar locations I like a messenger bag or similar to drop the camera in to keep it out of site when not actually using it.  In Alaska I have usually had poor weather at some point on many days and usually have a plastic bag handy or one of the disposable Rain Sleeves.


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## astroNikon (Jul 13, 2015)

OP - it takes time to learn the "Exposure Triangle"
and right now it seems that the ISO, Aperture and Shutter are basically terms that require more experience.

The Aperture controls the opening in the lens which allows light to come in.  But more importantly it controls the "Depth of Field" of the focused subject.  Depth of Field (aka DOF) is how deep the field of focus is.  For example,  at an aperture of say f/1.4 you focus on a ruler only an inch would be in focus,  The rest blurred.  Whereas at f/8  - four inches may be in focus.

Shutter speed determines how you stop movement.  Something moving faster will require a faster shutter speed.

ISO - controls how sensitive the sensor is to light.

Over time you'll become more accustomed to what aperture (for DOF) and what Shutter Speed (to compensate for movement) to use.

Then you can use AUTO ISO to compensate balancing out the exposure triangle.

You may be better off in Shutter Priority and Auto ISO.  Then make sure you pick the proper shutter speed and let the camera do the rest.

About 99% of the time I'm in Manual to control the Aperture and Shutter and use AUTO ISO with a maximum amount set.  This allows me to get the proper Aperture and Shutter for the situation I'm in.  But with this you need to better understand Aperture and Shutter speeds for the various scenarios you are in.

Super Zooms are nice to have for those occasions where you want to carry one lens for everything.   There's been plenty of threads where other people are looking for the convenience of one lens.  Yes, you could have 2 bodies, or this or that but the situation is you currently have A camera and you want to use that camera rather than investing more and carrying more, which looses the convenience aspect of it.

I have a 28-300 lens on my list to get sooner or later, for the same convenience aspect of one camera - one lens simplicity.


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## Braineack (Jul 13, 2015)

Solarflare said:


> Superzooms are ANYTHING but a swiss army knife. Superzooms are highly specialized tools that offer a lot of focal range variance, but very little else. No image quality, no brightness, and no autofocusing performance either.



What's more of a highly specialize tool:

a 105mm 2.8 Macro lens.
or
a 18-270mm Macro lens?

or better yet:






_creative commons

or





creative commons_


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## Pratoman (Jul 13, 2015)

Dave, good suggestion on the plastic bag. I think though, i will take the case with me, at least when i am off the boat. Its a good, compact case, just enough to hold the camera, the lens and some cables along with an extra battery.


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## Pratoman (Jul 13, 2015)

@astroNikon - thanks good explanation. I do have a basic understanding of what ISO, Shutterspeed and Aperture are, and what they do. Where i get lost is in getting them to work together, i.e. figuring out the right combinaiton. But I'm sure as i read stuff like your explanation, and books that i've bought, and with a lot of practice, it will come to me. I'm determined to not get frustrated, and still with this.

Re the convenience, well said. For now, thats what its about for me, at least on this trip, as long as i can get good shots.


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## Pratoman (Jul 13, 2015)

Brain, obviously, the 105mm is the more specialized tool. (And the Swiss Army Knife). But its also about what i need right now, at this early stage of my learning curve, which is probably not specialization.


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## Braineack (Jul 14, 2015)

yeah so the 18-270 is perfect for you right now--a very versatile lens that can perform a lot of functions (like a swiss army knife--unless you want to cut your toenails with that dagger).

Why not post some actual example of where the lens does not perform well for us to look at?


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## BananaRepublic (Jul 14, 2015)

Solarflare said:


> Superzooms are ANYTHING but a swiss army knife. Superzooms are highly specialized tools that offer a lot of focal range variance, but very little else. No image quality, no brightness, and no autofocusing performance either.
> 
> The most tolerable of this species seems to be the Nikon 18-300mm f3.5-6.3. The Tamron 18-270mm however is probably the worst piece of glas you can get. Dont expect much image quality for it. Or anything else. Its just focal length variance, not much else.
> 
> ...



Negative waves with every post


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## Bryston3bsst (Jul 14, 2015)

Braineack said:


> yeah so the 18-270 is perfect for you right now.
> 
> Why not post some actual* example of where the lens does not perform well* for us to look at?



I would be very interested to see this as well.


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## Pratoman (Jul 14, 2015)

I will try to figure out how to upload later today.


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## Pratoman (Jul 14, 2015)

OK, i posted three pictures. One post for each. I couldn't figure out how to upload the photos, so i just copied and pasted from Smugmug

This picture seems washed out.

Camera NIKON CORPORATION NIKON D3200
ISO 100
Focal Length 38mm (57mm in 35mm)
Aperture f/4.5
Exposure Time 0.0025s (1/400)
Name DSC_0267.JPG
Size 4512 x 3000
Date Taken 2015-07-10 10:24:33
Date Modified 2015-07-10 10:24:33


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## Pratoman (Jul 14, 2015)

Not crisp...


NIKON CORPORATION NIKON D3200
ISO 800
Focal Length 270mm (405mm in 35mm)
Aperture f/6.3
Exposure Time 0.0006s (1/1600)
Name DSC_0269.JPG
Size 4512 x 3000
Date Taken 2015-07-10 10:25:05
Date Modified 2015-07-10 10:25:05

File Size 3.73 MB
JPEG Quality normal
Flash flash did not fire
Metering pattern
Exposure Program aperture priority
Exposure Bias 0 EV
Exposure Mode auto
Light Source unknown
White Balance auto
Digital Zoom 1.0x
Contrast 0
Saturation 0
Sharpness 0
Subject Distance Range unknown
Sensing Method one-chip color sensor


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## Pratoman (Jul 14, 2015)

Can i get some CC on this one?....
Camera NIKON CORPORATION NIKON D3200
ISO 1600
Focal Length 270mm (405mm in 35mm)
Aperture f/10
Exposure Time 0.004s (1/250)
Name DSC_0281.JPG
Size 4512 x 3000
Date Taken 2015-07-10 10:29:34
Date Modified 2015-07-10 10:29:34

File Size 3.62 MB
JPEG Quality normal
Flash flash did not fire
Metering pattern
Exposure Program aperture priority
Exposure Bias 0 EV
Exposure Mode auto
Light Source unknown
White Balance auto
Digital Zoom 1.0x
Contrast 0
Saturation 0
Sharpness 0
Subject Distance Range unknown
Sensing Method one-chip color sensor
Color Space sRGB


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## floatingby (Jul 14, 2015)

Pratoman said:


> So then whats the answer? If I'm in a helicopter, or sailing thru the Inside Passage, or walking around Vancouver BC, do I have 2 lenses and constantly switch back and forth? This is what i am trying to figure out. I could probably return the lens its a month old and i still have the box. But I'm afraid to be switching lenses all the time that i will miss good shots.
> As a newbie, I'm curious how do you guys handle that?


I backpacked around the world with a dslr, 3 1/2 months on the road, 18 countries. No way I was going to take a bag full of expensive, heavy and cumbersome lens, so I took a Nikkor 18-200mm zoom with me. Couldn't be happier with the result, when I got result that I was not happy with it was my own fault, not the equipment. 
I don't know that Tamron, it is possible it's not all that, but I can vouch for that Nikkor 18-200.


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## Bryston3bsst (Jul 15, 2015)

I kind of expected that I wouldn't see a problem with the lens.

First one seems 'washed out' to you? It appears to me to be a nicely done photo of a park. Colors are natural and clean. If you are looking for the over the top, garish colors some people prefer then you can do that in post or you can make the colors much hotter in your camera, which is done in the menu.

Second one isn't sharp because you moved when the shutter was open. What you're seeing is motion blur. Shooting at a 1600th should have been plenty to eliminate it but then an ISO that high will begin to effect sharpness. And shooting at that long a focal length places a huge demand on you to be extremely steady. You should get better with practice and to reduce this you can look at shooting at higher shutter speeds if conditions allow. Otherwise use a tripod. There are a number of ways to reduce this; the way you hold the camera and control of your breathing make a big difference. This was a problem for me too until I learned how to get around it.

Last one looks like a little motion blur but to a lesser degree.

There is nothing wrong with your lens. You need some more practice and you need to learn more about the relationship of shutter speed, ISO and aperture so you'll be able to shoot at higher shutter speeds to reduce your motion.


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## Pratoman (Jul 15, 2015)

Thanks.

@Bryston, appreciate your cc. Funny, the 1st one looks better on my IPad on this forum, than it did on my LAPTOP ON SMUGMUG.

I get what you are saying. I think the more I look at what I've done so far, the more comfortable I am with the lens, at least for now. Re the relationship between aperture, shutter speed and ISO, as I said earlier, I get what each of them are and do, and more or less get how one reacts with another. I think though, as you said, I need more practice to better understand and execute on this.

I also haven't done any post processing yet, which I need to learn. I have the software that came with the camera from Nikon, but I think I should get Lightroom
Thanks for all the feedback. This forum is terrific


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## Bryston3bsst (Jul 15, 2015)

Something that helps me with motion is to think about how your movement is amplified over distance. Your first picture for example.....if you were to move even 1mm at the end of your lens that 1mm is amplified into probably 20 feet at those two buildings. Think of a sniper shooting at a target 1000 yards away. A tiny movement equals a miss.

Photographers are dealing with kind of the same situation. A tiny movement equals a miss.


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## floatingby (Jul 15, 2015)

Doesn't that Tamron have VR?


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## astroNikon (Jul 15, 2015)

Curious on What you focused on, and what you exposed on too.

for example, in the 2nd photo - If you focused on the trees (which it looks like) then the building in back would be slightly out of focus (which it is).  Also check the background trees to the right which are also out of focus.

So I think you also need to learn how to setup and use the different focusing modes and setting focus manually by not allowing the camera to focus on whatever it wants to.


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## Braineack (Jul 15, 2015)

looks like you missed the focus on all three shots.


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## Designer (Jul 15, 2015)

Pratoman said:


> OK, i posted three pictures. One post for each. I couldn't figure out how to upload the photos, so i just copied and pasted from Smugmug


Whatever works!

I think some of this may be simple operator error, as has been posted above by Bryston3bsst.

I tried to read the focus point on the temple shot, but the points do not show up.  I think SmugMug or their uploader strips the EXIF.  If you upload directly from your computer, the EXIF should stay intact, which helps the members diagnose trouble.  

First; make the file sizes smaller so the images will be no more than 1050 pixels on a side, then use the uploader tool in the toolbar.


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## astroNikon (Jul 15, 2015)

floatingby said:


> Doesn't that Tamron have VR?


With some of his shutter speeds, should VC be turned OFF above 1/500 as with Nikon's VR ?


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## Pratoman (Jul 15, 2015)

I honestly don't recall what I was focusing on in the first shot, I think it was the trees. I think I like that shot, the colors are vivid. The second shot I was definitely focusing on the temple. And obviously the third shot on the duck. I do notice my hands tend to shake a bit not sure how to prevent that, maybe brace my arm against my body more.  The pics were taken on aperture priority , I'm pretty sure , so the shutter speed was set by the camera. Maybe in the shot with 1/1600, I should have used a wider opening, and a lower ISO. 
I'm doing all this with guesswork which is my probl.

I find it hard to judge the shots in the viewfinder, seems like the protective glass I had installed over it dulls the picture.
Thanks again for all the feedback.


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## Bryston3bsst (Jul 16, 2015)

Pratoman said:


> *I find it hard to judge the shots in the viewfinder, seems like the protective glass I had installed over it dulls the picture.*
> Thanks again for all the feedback.



Are you using live view as your viewfinder? That is, are you using the large, rear screen as your viewfinder?

If so, I can understand how you can't hold your camera steady as you are probably holding it at, or near, arm's length. If you use the camera as it was designed to be used, which is looking through the eyepiece, it is _much _easier to hold it steady.


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## Pratoman (Jul 16, 2015)

@Bryston , yeah I was using the strap. But I had it slung over my shoulder, not around my neck. Lesson learned!


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## Pratoman (Jul 16, 2015)

Jasii said:


> Your post indicates your desire to shoot good good pics. If you are new to the camera, fall in love with it, handle it like you'd a small baby,   get shooting and than look at your own shots and list out what you like and what you don't. And of course share your results with friends and in forums like this would help too.
> Since you already own the AIO Tammy, it would be nice to know what it can do and what it can't and try and see if you can live with it's limitation curve, else you can always swap it for something nicer.
> Jasii



Thanks Jasii, great post, good ideas. Don't know how I missed this post yesterday.


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## chuasam (Jul 20, 2015)

Pratoman said:


> So then whats the answer? If I'm in a helicopter, or sailing thru the Inside Passage, or walking around Vancouver BC, do I have 2 lenses and constantly switch back and forth? This is what i am trying to figure out. I could probably return the lens its a month old and i still have the box. But I'm afraid to be switching lenses all the time that i will miss good shots.
> As a newbie, I'm curious how do you guys handle that?


By having 2 bodies.


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