# Best lens for product photography



## greenytime

I am wondering what would be the best lens for product photography. 

I am currently using the kit lens that came with my Canon 600D but would like to upgrade to get sharper images (the slow auto focus is also really annoying).

I am taking pictures of small products, such as mens accessories, ties, handkerchiefs etc.. Top down, using a tripod with a horizontal arm.

If there's any more info I can give that would help, please ask.

Thanks


----------



## tirediron

If the images aren't sharp, then chances are the issue lies with your set-up and NOT the lens.  Kit lenses are slow (ie comparatively small maximum aperture), and don't usually have the best build quality, but stopped down to say f8, and at mid-range (~35mm) they should be tack-sharp.  Is your set-up rock solid?  Are your shutter speeds reasonable (1/125 or above)?  I


----------



## Derrel

There is no one "best" lens for product photography, but for fairly small objects, like say cufflinks, a 90mm to 150mm macro lens from Tamron,Tokina,SIgma, or Canon would work fine. On larger objects, with a 90 to 150mm lens, the camera might very well need to be moved back to 8 to 15 feet, in order to be able to frame the entire object within the field of view of a longer, telephoto macro lens. Focusing speed ought not be any concern whatsoever in doing small product photography.


----------



## fjrabon

A) you should probably manual focus for product photography anyway. It's not a big deal, but I generally find manual focusing is easier in this scenario because you can set it and forget it unless you move your tripod or you move your subject. 

B) product photography is the genre where lens quality matters the least. 
C) that being said, the tamron 60mm f/2 macro/portrait hybrid is my favorite for product photography.


----------



## greenytime

tirediron said:


> If the images aren't sharp, then chances are the issue lies with your set-up and NOT the lens.  Kit lenses are slow (ie comparatively small maximum aperture), and don't usually have the best build quality, but stopped down to say f8, and at mid-range (~35mm) they should be tack-sharp.  Is your set-up rock solid?  Are your shutter speeds reasonable (1/125 or above)?  I



I need to change my "f" number, that's for sure.

My shutter speeds are normally around 1/6 1/8.... I sometimes use a professional photographer for items that I don't have the space for and he used 1/250 for everything. I tried it and my images were just black!



Derrel said:


> There is no one "best" lens for product photography, but for fairly small objects, like say cufflinks, a 90mm to 150mm macro lens from Tamron,Tokina,SIgma, or Canon would work fine. On larger objects, with a 90 to 150mm lens, the camera might very well need to be moved back to 8 to 15 feet, in order to be able to frame the entire object within the field of view of a longer, telephoto macro lens. Focusing speed ought not be any concern whatsoever in doing small product photography.



Interesting post.. Thanks. According to this post, the Canon EF 100mm f/2.8L should work great.. This is one of the lenses that I was considering. Please correct me if I'm wrong!



fjrabon said:


> A) you should probably manual focus for product photography anyway. It's not a big deal, but I generally find manual focusing is easier in this scenario because you can set it and forget it unless you move your tripod or you move your subject.
> 
> B) product photography is the genre where lens quality matters the least.
> C) that being said, the tamron 60mm f/2 macro/portrait hybrid is my favorite for product photography.



A) I trust the auto-focus on my camera far more than my ability to eye-ball it. I'll discover after taking a couple of hundred shots that they were all just slightly out of focus!!!

B) Ok.

C) Thanks. I'll look into this.


----------



## fjrabon

greenytime said:


> A) I trust the auto-focus on my camera far more than my ability to eye-ball it. I'll discover after taking a couple of hundred shots that they were all just slightly out of focus!!!



You don't have to trust your eyeball, you should have a focus peak indicator in your camera viewfinder that lights up when you are in focus.  Thus once you set it, you don't have to worry about your camera trying to refocus.  Nail your focus once, and then bam, you've got it.  Autofocus will often hunt and try to refocus when nothing moved at all.  If you're shooting a static shot, I'll often times even use auto-focus to focus in the first place, then switch it off to manual focus so that it locks on that focus and I can just shoot, adjusting light, without having to worry about the camera trying to focus again.  Especially if you're adjusting lighting, I find that it can screw around with the autofocus.


----------



## greenytime

fjrabon said:


> You don't have to trust your eyeball, you should have a focus peak indicator in your camera viewfinder that lights up when you are in focus.  Thus once you set it, you don't have to worry about your camera trying to refocus.  Nail your focus once, and then bam, you've got it.  Autofocus will often hunt and try to refocus when nothing moved at all.  If you're shooting a static shot, I'll often times even use auto-focus to focus in the first place, then switch it off to manual focus so that it locks on that focus and I can just shoot, adjusting light, without having to worry about the camera trying to focus again.  Especially if you're adjusting lighting, I find that it can screw around with the autofocus.



Interesting.. I don't know what that feature is. I am using a Canon 600D. Will have to Google around to see how to do it.

I totally agree about the auto-focus, it hunts quite often and drives me insane, that's why I was thinking a better lens wouldn't do that.


----------



## Derrel

Sure, the Canon 100mm L-series macro would work, but there's not a whole lot of need for such an expensive, Image Stabilized macro lens...the plain old Canon 100mm EF macro is amply good...so is the Tokina 100mm f/2.8 AT-X Pro model, or the 90mm AF-SP Di model from Tamron. The Tokina and Tamron are both kind of "cult favorite" third-party macro lenses, and are actually very good performers.

As to the professional's macro shots, all made at 1/250 second: that would make me think he shot all of them at the X-synch speed of his camera, using studio type electronic flash...which is why HIS shots were not black...

One simple tip for hand focusing in tabletop setups is to position a small, high-contrast "focusing target" at a critical place in the set, focus on that, then REMOVE the target!!! You MUST remove the doggone target! You can make these yourself with simple bits of fine printed matter glued to small pieces of card stock. Use Live View focusing, or shoot-focus-review...any way to get the focus nailed...do whatever you have to do.


----------



## fjrabon

greenytime said:


> fjrabon said:
> 
> 
> 
> You don't have to trust your eyeball, you should have a focus peak indicator in your camera viewfinder that lights up when you are in focus.  Thus once you set it, you don't have to worry about your camera trying to refocus.  Nail your focus once, and then bam, you've got it.  Autofocus will often hunt and try to refocus when nothing moved at all.  If you're shooting a static shot, I'll often times even use auto-focus to focus in the first place, then switch it off to manual focus so that it locks on that focus and I can just shoot, adjusting light, without having to worry about the camera trying to focus again.  Especially if you're adjusting lighting, I find that it can screw around with the autofocus.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Interesting.. I don't know what that feature is. I am using a Canon 600D. Will have to Google around to see how to do it.
> 
> I totally agree about the auto-focus, it hunts quite often and drives me insane, that's why I was thinking a better lens wouldn't do that.
Click to expand...

A lens could help, but it might not, or might only partially fix the problem.  

Focus confirmation indicator is in the bottom right hand portion of your viewfinder


----------



## Austin Greene

greenytime said:


> I need to change my "f" number, that's for sure.
> 
> My shutter speeds are normally around 1/6 1/8.... I sometimes use a professional photographer for items that *I don't have the space for and he used 1/250 for everything. I tried it and my images were just black!*



Oh sweet jesus...

I believe this may not be an issue with your settings at all, but rather, that you've stumbled across a case of CPSB, or Complete Photographic Sensory Breakdown. It's a condition that affects many DSLR's, because why would it affect the owner, that would be ridiculous. Signs and symptoms usually include: 

Finding camera manuals in the trash
Lens caps permanently affixed to lens front elements
Poor quality images
Black images, regardless of the settings (just as you describe!)
As far as I know the only treatment is to take your camera, box it up with all the original parts if you can (if you don't have them it's ok), and mail it back to the manufacturer. Place a note in the box that describes what you've been experiencing, along with the subject line of "Need to RTFM: Have CPSB". 

They should take care of you


----------



## greenytime

Austin Greene said:


> greenytime said:
> 
> 
> 
> I need to change my "f" number, that's for sure.
> 
> My shutter speeds are normally around 1/6 1/8.... I sometimes use a professional photographer for items that *I don't have the space for and he used 1/250 for everything. I tried it and my images were just black!*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Oh sweet jesus...
> 
> I believe this may not be an issue with your settings at all, but rather, that you've stumbled across a case of CPSB, or Complete Photographic Sensory Breakdown. It's a condition that affects many DSLR's, because why would it affect the owner, that would be ridiculous. Signs and symptoms usually include:
> 
> Finding camera manuals in the trash
> Lens caps permanently affixed to lens front elements
> Poor quality images
> Black images, regardless of the settings (just as you describe!)
> As far as I know the only treatment is to take your camera, box it up with all the original parts if you can (if you don't have them it's ok), and mail it back to the manufacturer. Place a note in the box that describes what you've been experiencing, along with the subject line of "Need to RTFM: Have CPSB".
> 
> They should take care of you
Click to expand...


----------



## Austin Greene

greenytime said:


> Austin Greene said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> greenytime said:
> 
> 
> 
> I need to change my "f" number, that's for sure.
> 
> My shutter speeds are normally around 1/6 1/8.... I sometimes use a professional photographer for items that *I don't have the space for and he used 1/250 for everything. I tried it and my images were just black!*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Oh sweet jesus...
> 
> I believe this may not be an issue with your settings at all, but rather, that you've stumbled across a case of CPSB, or Complete Photographic Sensory Breakdown. It's a condition that affects many DSLR's, because why would it affect the owner, that would be ridiculous. Signs and symptoms usually include:
> 
> Finding camera manuals in the trash
> Lens caps permanently affixed to lens front elements
> Poor quality images
> Black images, regardless of the settings (just as you describe!)
> As far as I know the only treatment is to take your camera, box it up with all the original parts if you can (if you don't have them it's ok), and mail it back to the manufacturer. Place a note in the box that describes what you've been experiencing, along with the subject line of "Need to RTFM: Have CPSB".
> 
> They should take care of you
> 
> Click to expand...
Click to expand...


----------



## astroNikon

greenytime said:


> Top down, using a tripod with a horizontal arm.


Tripod with a Horizontal arm ?
What kind of tripod (as in sturdiness) and how far out is the horizontal arm going.  This may be making a nice little springboard action upon touching it.

I hope you are not actuating the picture with your own finger.  It's probably causing shaking issues.  Just in case ... Use a radio remote or corded trigger to minimize that.

I used a horizontal arm too $70 thing and boy .. you have to use a remote release to not have it even slightly bounce.


----------



## Austin Greene

astroNikon said:


> greenytime said:
> 
> 
> 
> Top down, using a tripod with a horizontal arm.
> 
> 
> 
> Tripod with a Horizontal arm ?
> What kind of tripod (as in sturdiness) and how far out is the horizontal arm going.  This may be making a nice little springboard action upon touching it.
> 
> I hope you are not actuating the picture with your own finger.  It's probably causing shaking issues.  Just in case ... Use a radio remote or corded trigger to minimize that.
> 
> I used a horizontal arm too $70 thing and boy .. you have to use a remote release to not have it even slightly bounce.
Click to expand...


Depends on the tripod. Most truly studio-quality tripods won't have any issue with a boom. Ours is Manfrotto, and while it's a POS in my opinion, it holds our boom steady. It's also giant, so there's that.


----------



## astroNikon

Austin Greene said:


> Depends on the tripod. Most truly studio-quality tripods won't have any issue with a boom. Ours is Manfrotto, and while it's a POS in my opinion, it holds our boom steady. It's also giant, so there's that.


Yes, but it depends what the OP has.

My Boom on my Slik Professional is fine.
But on the Slik 500DX is fine too with a remote release.  
On a cheappo tripod I have laying around I wouldn't even try it.
with most newbie's getting cheaper tripods I bring that up as a potential problem, as few would be steady even without a boom, and most newbie's don't use a remote release.


----------



## Scatterbrained

Austin Greene said:


> astroNikon said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> greenytime said:
> 
> 
> 
> Top down, using a tripod with a horizontal arm.
> 
> 
> 
> Tripod with a Horizontal arm ?
> What kind of tripod (as in sturdiness) and how far out is the horizontal arm going.  This may be making a nice little springboard action upon touching it.
> 
> I hope you are not actuating the picture with your own finger.  It's probably causing shaking issues.  Just in case ... Use a radio remote or corded trigger to minimize that.
> 
> I used a horizontal arm too $70 thing and boy .. you have to use a remote release to not have it even slightly bounce.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> 
> Depends on the tripod. Most truly studio-quality tripods won't have any issue with a boom. Ours is Manfrotto, and while it's a POS in my opinion, it holds our boom steady. It's also giant, so there's that.
Click to expand...

If you put a camera out on a boom there will be some vibration.  I don't care what tripod you have.  It's one of the reasons why cameras have remotes and mirror lock up.  Depending on what your shooting and how long of a shutter speed you're using will determine whether  the level of vibration is acceptable or not.    Granted cheaper tripods will severely exacerbate the effect as they flex at the apex, but even that can be overcome with proper technique.


----------



## Austin Greene

Scatterbrained said:


> Austin Greene said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> astroNikon said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> greenytime said:
> 
> 
> 
> Top down, using a tripod with a horizontal arm.
> 
> 
> 
> Tripod with a Horizontal arm ?
> What kind of tripod (as in sturdiness) and how far out is the horizontal arm going.  This may be making a nice little springboard action upon touching it.
> 
> I hope you are not actuating the picture with your own finger.  It's probably causing shaking issues.  Just in case ... Use a radio remote or corded trigger to minimize that.
> 
> I used a horizontal arm too $70 thing and boy .. you have to use a remote release to not have it even slightly bounce.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> 
> Depends on the tripod. Most truly studio-quality tripods won't have any issue with a boom. Ours is Manfrotto, and while it's a POS in my opinion, it holds our boom steady. It's also giant, so there's that.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> If you put a camera out on a boom there will be some vibration.  I don't care what tripod you have.  It's one of the reasons why cameras have remotes and mirror lock up.  Depending on what your shooting and how long of a shutter speed you're using will determine whether  the level of vibration is acceptable or not.    Granted cheaper tripods will severely exacerbate the effect as they flex at the apex, but even that can be overcome with proper technique.
Click to expand...


Of course there will be, but how quickly that vibration falls off, and how much there is, is what matters. Studio equipment, true studio weight stuff, does a lot to minimize that to the point where things like mirror lockup aren't needed. Also, knowing how to properly set up a boom does wonders for minimizing vibrations. 

If you think it can't be done in a way that doesn't impact workflow, you'd be mistaken. We image thousands of objects a quarter, 70% of which require a boom which we move around quite a bit. None of these images ever have motion issues from vibration.


----------



## Scatterbrained

Austin Greene said:


> Scatterbrained said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Austin Greene said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> astroNikon said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> greenytime said:
> 
> 
> 
> Top down, using a tripod with a horizontal arm.
> 
> 
> 
> Tripod with a Horizontal arm ?
> What kind of tripod (as in sturdiness) and how far out is the horizontal arm going.  This may be making a nice little springboard action upon touching it.
> 
> I hope you are not actuating the picture with your own finger.  It's probably causing shaking issues.  Just in case ... Use a radio remote or corded trigger to minimize that.
> 
> I used a horizontal arm too $70 thing and boy .. you have to use a remote release to not have it even slightly bounce.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> 
> Depends on the tripod. Most truly studio-quality tripods won't have any issue with a boom. Ours is Manfrotto, and while it's a POS in my opinion, it holds our boom steady. It's also giant, so there's that.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> If you put a camera out on a boom there will be some vibration.  I don't care what tripod you have.  It's one of the reasons why cameras have remotes and mirror lock up.  Depending on what your shooting and how long of a shutter speed you're using will determine whether  the level of vibration is acceptable or not.    Granted cheaper tripods will severely exacerbate the effect as they flex at the apex, but even that can be overcome with proper technique.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> 
> Of course there will be, but how quickly that vibration falls off, and how much there is, is what matters. Studio equipment, true studio weight stuff, does a lot to minimize that to the point where things like mirror lockup aren't needed. Also, knowing how to properly set up a boom does wonders for minimizing vibrations.
> 
> If you think it can't be done in a way that doesn't impact workflow, you'd be mistaken. We image thousands of objects a quarter, 70% of which require a boom which we move around quite a bit. None of these images ever have motion issues from vibration.
Click to expand...

I didn't say it couldn't.   I do a large majority of my shooting from a tripod, in a studio.    The difference between our cases and the OP will likely be shutterspeeds/lighting, as well as equipment.   When you're working with studio strobes whose duration is measured in the thousandths of a second, the small vibrations from pressing the shutter aren't that big of a deal; even with a cheap tripod.   When you're working with a cheap tripod, ambient light, and longish (but not truly long) shutter speeds then those vibrations become a factor.   It's why people with the A7R have issues with shutter vibration on images around 1/30th of a second, but not longer exposures or faster ones. 

Granted, we don't even know for sure that camera shake is the OPs actually issue.  It's all academic at this point.   They could just have a really cheap filter on the lens that is causing blur.   I don't recall seeing any example images posted so who really knows?   At this point what would be best for the OP would be to take a step back and find some entry level educational material.   Maybe drop the $25 for a month of KelbyOne, where they can view videos that start at the absolute beginning and work their way up in a structured manner.


----------



## epatsellis

Scatterbrained said:


> Austin Greene said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> astroNikon said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> greenytime said:
> 
> 
> 
> Top down, using a tripod with a horizontal arm.
> 
> 
> 
> Tripod with a Horizontal arm ?
> What kind of tripod (as in sturdiness) and how far out is the horizontal arm going.  This may be making a nice little springboard action upon touching it.
> 
> I hope you are not actuating the picture with your own finger.  It's probably causing shaking issues.  Just in case ... Use a radio remote or corded trigger to minimize that.
> 
> I used a horizontal arm too $70 thing and boy .. you have to use a remote release to not have it even slightly bounce.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> 
> Depends on the tripod. Most truly studio-quality tripods won't have any issue with a boom. Ours is Manfrotto, and while it's a POS in my opinion, it holds our boom steady. It's also giant, so there's that.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> If you put a camera out on a boom there will be some vibration.  I don't care what tripod you have.  It's one of the reasons why cameras have remotes and mirror lock up.  Depending on what your shooting and how long of a shutter speed you're using will determine whether  the level of vibration is acceptable or not.    Granted cheaper tripods will severely exacerbate the effect as they flex at the apex, but even that can be overcome with proper technique.
Click to expand...



Well, maybe with the tripods you have experience with, however..... A tripod is of limited use in a studio environment, a studio stand is far more appropriate. My personal preference is either Foba or Cambo, I currently use a Cambo UST, fully decked out with nearly every accessory they make. 

I have nothing against tripods, I could probably fill a pickup truck bed (or in the case of some of them, hold one up) with the tripods I have, from Davis and Sanford to Bogen/Manfrotto, Gitzos, Majestic (with a sidearm), Ries, and even a huge Saltzman, but for studio work, a real studio stand is really the best tool for the job.


----------

