# How to get used to manual mode?



## SuperMiguel (May 27, 2014)

So I currently have a D7100, got it few months back, just got to take family pics for trips, so i mostly shoot in auto mode, i been lately trying to switch to A/S mode, and even manual mode, but the problem i have is for example in manual mode where i do get the ambient light sensor it takes me about 10-20 seconds (sometimes way longer) to get my settings where they are close to mid in the sensor, most of the time when im in a family trip things happens instantaneously, or i just have few seconds to take the shoot and i dont have those 20 seconds to adjust settings, is there anything i can do to get faster at manual mode?


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## pixmedic (May 27, 2014)

just practice. thats about it.


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## 480sparky (May 27, 2014)

Just do it.

That's all it takes.  Practice.


Or, you could be like us old geezers and start taking photos back when there _wasn't_ any auto-this or auto-that.


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## TheNevadanStig (May 27, 2014)

The first thing you should do when the camera even comes out of the bag is get the exposure dialed in. Doesn't have to be a picture worth taking to do that. Do it on a bush or tree or something. Once you have it set just keep it there and let the magic happen.


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## SuperMiguel (May 27, 2014)

exposure dialed in?


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## runnah (May 27, 2014)

Start with aperture and shutter speed modes.


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## 480sparky (May 27, 2014)

SuperMiguel said:


> exposure dialed in?



Get ready to take a shot, be aware of the lighting, your intent for the image, the subject matter and the lens you're using.  Adjust ISO, shutter and aperture to suit lighting, as well as desired effect and subject.

For instance, if you're wanting to take a portrait in bright shade, you'll want a large aperture to throw the background OOF.  You'll want a lower ISO for detail, and if you're shooting with a long tele, choose a shutter speed you know you can hand-hold without getting camera motion to show up as a blur.

If you're shooting a landscape with an UWA lens on a tripod, then choose your ISO (most likely the lowest), a medium aperture for DOF and the shutter speed high enough to keep subject movement fro blurring (unless that's your intent... to shoot with a 10-stop ND and let all the people move enough during a 5-minute exposure they don't register in the image).

If you're shooting sports, then pick an ISO high enough to allow you to use an aperture small enough to get sufficient DOF on the subject and a shutter speed fast enough to 'stop' the action.


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## KmH (May 27, 2014)

There are 3 Exposure light metering modes, each appropriate for different reasons, See pages  83-88 of your D7100 users manual.

You also need to set the auto focus mode, and the auto focus _area_ mode - pages 71-78

For shooting in Manual mode you will likely also want to set the ISO (pages 79-82) and the White Balance (pages 89 - 104).

Manual mode give the photographer the most control over a photographs technical and artistic qualities.
Image quality results from the photographer's understanding of the camera/lens being used, image composition, photographic lighting, and depth-of-field.


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## coastalconn (May 27, 2014)

Shoot in manual with Auto-ISO turned on and use exposure compensation to manually adjust ISO...


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## coffeefilter (May 27, 2014)

I'm not trying to start an argument. Just want to let you know, 480sparky, that it's slightly infuriating to beginners when someone types/speaks in acronyms. They don't know what you're talking about, and instead of fully answering the question, you send them on another hunt to decipher the acronyms. 

I'm assuming "OOF" is "Out of Focus" and "DOF" is "Depth of Field". UWA? ND? The key to writing well is to know your audience.


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## 480sparky (May 27, 2014)

coffeefilter said:


> I'm not trying to start an argument. Just want to let you know, 480sparky, that it's slightly infuriating to beginners when someone types/speaks in acronyms. They don't know what you're talking about, and instead of fully answering the question, you send them on another hunt to decipher the acronyms.
> 
> I'm assuming "OOF" is "Out of Focus" and "DOF" is "Depth of Field". UWA? ND? The key to writing well is to know your audience.




So I'm supposed to query every poster as to their technical prowess before I provide an answer?


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## TheNevadanStig (May 27, 2014)

Maybe before trying to get more technically advanced with your camera, you need to get a little more technically advanced with your knowledge of the camera. An example would be your D7100 does not have an ambient light sensor.
You can try manual mode all you want, but without a basic understanding of what the functions and settings actually do, there is no point in taking control over them.


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## table1349 (May 27, 2014)

coffeefilter said:


> I'm not trying to start an argument. Just want to let you know, 480sparky, that it's slightly infuriating to beginners when someone types/speaks in acronyms. They don't know what you're talking about, and instead of fully answering the question, you send them on another hunt to decipher the acronyms.
> 
> I'm assuming "OOF" is "Out of Focus" and "DOF" is "Depth of Field". UWA? ND? The key to writing well is to know your audience.



http://www.thephotoforum.com/forum/...rum/167288-camera-terms-acronyms-dummies.html

A good audience doesn't need to be spoon fed.


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## table1349 (May 27, 2014)

OP, you don't get used to manual any more than you get used to driving a vehicle.  I didn't get used to driving, I learned to drive.  Same thing with using a camera.  First thing to do when you buy a camera or any other tool that comes with a manual is to R.T.F.M.  Once to gain a basic understanding and the second time around have camera in hand and learn all the functions, settings, parts, pieces etc the camera has and provides.  

Next thing is to understand the basics of photography. Good place to start: Digital Photography Tutorials
Good book to buy and learn from: http://www.amazon.com/Understanding-Exposure-3rd-Edition-Photographs/dp/0817439390

Once you understand the basics you can put together the pieces such as adjusting ISO, Aperture, or Shutter speed to achieve what you want.  You also then learn about exposure control, metering and all the other pieces that go into taking a photograph.  It isn't an over night thing.  It takes practice, time and patience.


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## DarkShadow (May 27, 2014)

Yea breast feed is the way to go.:thumbup:


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## table1349 (May 27, 2014)

DarkShadow said:


> Yea breast feed is the way to go.:thumbup:



Here you go: http://1000funnypictures.com


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## Derrel (May 27, 2014)

coastalconn said:


> Shoot in manual with Auto-ISO turned on and use exposure compensation to manually adjust ISO...



A good answer. Manual mode is vastly overrated, especially for beginning users. Same with "spot metering"--another vaaaaastly overrated, over-hyped aspect of modern d-slr photography.

Check into how to set up and use AUTO ISO on your D7100. You will be glad you did, especially if you want to shoot fast-moving family outings, and have the camera respond INSTANTLY to changing conditions.

I just did a Google search to see if I could find a Ken Rockwell article that might help the OP...YES, sure enough, he has one!

Modern Exposure


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## coffeefilter (May 28, 2014)

How hard is it to take 2 extra seconds to type out full words? You people make it sound like you're breaking fingers hitting keys.


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## coffeefilter (May 28, 2014)

Proper explanation isn't "spoon feeding".


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## hamlet (May 28, 2014)

Training montage is the only way


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## CaptainNapalm (May 28, 2014)

You can't really learn to shoot faster in manual mode without practice.  A lot of it is to do with anticipating a scene before a photo opportunity presents itself so that you're ready to catch the moment.  For example, if you're at a sunny family barbecue, you should already have your camera on some safe approximate settings for the scene (ISO 100, shutter 1/250, aperture F/4), similarly if you're strolling the streets at night your base settings would be something like (ISO 3200, shutter 1/80, aperture F/2.8).  It's the anticipation of the scene coupled with the ability to know what settings to adjust and adjust them quickly that comes from experience.


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## The_Traveler (May 28, 2014)

SuperMiguel said:


> is there anything i can do to get faster at manual mode?



to the OP

Why do you want to get faster at manual mode?
And if your answer is that you want to shoot that way, why is that?


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## The_Traveler (May 28, 2014)

coffeefilter said:


> How hard is it to take 2 extra seconds to type out full words? You people make it sound like you're breaking fingers hitting keys.





coffeefilter said:


> Proper explanation isn't "spoon feeding".



We use some simple abbreviations because they are such common abbreviations for terms in our 'industry' that they are essentially words themselves. 
Just like virtually everyone uses 'pH' which is actually short for  "power of hydrogen" where "p" is short for the German word for power, _potenz_ and H is the element symbol for hydrogen.
We also use f stop and iso without explaining them and refer to shutter speeds as 200, 400, 500, etc when the shutter speed is really 1/200, 1/400 and so on.

They are terms of art or jargon. Jargon, technical terminology, or _term of art_, is "the technical terminology or characteristic idiom of a special activity or group."


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## astroNikon (May 28, 2014)

not sure if anyone answered his questions ...
UWA = Ultra Wide Angle lenses - such as 18mm to 24mm
WA - wide angle lenses from 24 to 35  (the focla lengths vary depending upon the ppl you talk to)
other descriptions here   Understanding Camera Lenses

OOF - out of focus
DOF - depth of field   -- Understanding Depth of Field in Photography



One way to practice using manual mode is just in your kitchen.  If there are two rooms turn the lights on in one room, and lights off in another room that has some ambient light.  Then practice going between each room and improving your shots each time.  Have AUTO ISO on initially so you only have to deal with Aperture / Shutter.  In the darker room you'll notice alot of variance between something with some light to a little light.

If you watch you exposure meter, which is a little gauge thing in your viewfinder, you'll notice it swings wildly left to right .. your job is to get it in the middle with adjusting things.  Even just watching your exposure meter while slowly pointing the camera around you'll notice it going all over the place dependent upon the amount of light.  As you slowly swing it you can adjust your shutter speed to compensate for it. If your aperture is wide open and you start getting too slow, then the only way to compensate is to up the ISO (if in AUTO watch what ISO number it sets).

Then look at the photos and see if there's any high grainieness. This would be from high ISOs
Then try it with AUTO ISO turned off .. so then it's up to you to adjust the ISO.  Try to take photos with as low as ISO as possible, and see how far you get.

Then practice more.  don't wait to go on a family outing to practice.  Like sports you need to practice before the game.  The same thing about learning how to use your camera.  Either that, or use Auto.

And another thing.  I found it very helpful to learn each and every button and feature on the camera.  Learn where it is and how to adjust it.  You may not know how to use it, but when your grow in your knowledge and need it you can know that your camera has that feature.

When I first got my d7000 I learned each button, played with each feature. As I progressed I was able to implement the camera features into my growth and knowledge. It made it alot easier if you ask me.


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## runnah (May 28, 2014)

Derrel said:


> Manual mode is vastly overrated, especially for beginning users.



Agreed. Priority modes are most often the best solution for the situation. I think most people see M mode as some skewed badge of honor. I find myself using aperture priority mode most of the time, I know the DOF I want and rather than fiddling with dials I just let the camera do the work.


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## runnah (May 28, 2014)

coffeefilter said:


> How hard is it to take 2 extra seconds to type out full words? You people make it sound like you're breaking fingers hitting keys.



It's not our fault you are lazy.


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## 480sparky (May 28, 2014)

coffeefilter said:


> How hard is it to take 2 extra seconds to type out full words? You people make it sound like you're breaking fingers hitting keys.




You need to be preaching to the IM/TM crowd.














Oh, I'm sorry.


You need to be preaching to the Instant Messaging / Text Messaging crowd.


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## The_Traveler (May 28, 2014)

The purpose of a camera is to make pictures not to prove one's manual dexterity as some sort of macho thing like the android in Aliens.


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## runnah (May 28, 2014)

480sparky said:


> coffeefilter said:
> 
> 
> > How hard is it to take 2 extra seconds to type out full words? You people make it sound like you're breaking fingers hitting keys.
> ...




IDK, IIRC PPL often IRL never use acronyms. BTW I love SNAFU, LOL.


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## TheLost (May 28, 2014)

Having grown up in the stone-age of 35mm cameras (Pre - Auto focus, only Manual) it always makes me laugh when people think its more 'ARTSY / HARD CORE' to only shoot manual.  I like to spend my time thinking about how i want my picture to look..  and i let the camera figure out the technical details.  There is no shame in using A(perture) or S(hutter) priority.

I also take a lighter with me camping... Its way easier then rubbing two sticks together.


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## runnah (May 28, 2014)

TheLost said:


> Having grown up in the stone-age of 35mm cameras (Pre - Auto focus, only Manual) it always makes me laugh when people think its more 'ARTSY / HARD CORE' to only shoot manual.  I like to spend my time thinking about how i want my picture to look..  and i let the camera figure out the technical details.  There is no shame in using A(perture) or S(hutter) priority.
> 
> I also take a lighter with me camping... Its way easier then rubbing two sticks together.




This exactly. 100's of years and billions of dollars have been spent to reach the point of camera's today. To look down your nose at amazing technical advances is foolhardy.


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## Overread (May 28, 2014)

Aperture
Shutter speed
ISO 

Those are the three only settings that govern exposure in a camera. How you get to the specific combination that makes up the shot you take is up to you. What matters is, in my view:

1) Being capable of using all the core modes on the camera. Not just understanding their theory or using them once, but actually being able to make use of them. 
I would count core modes as: Aperture priority - shutter priority - manual mode.

2) Being capable of pre-visualising or otherwise applying exposure/subject theory to the shot to help pre-determine what you want from the shot. This sounds complicated and when you start its very very hard to do. With practice and more experiences in a wider and wider field of interest you can much more easily pre-visualise. This process is all about helping you decide what the order of importance if for the 3 settings; that in turn lets you start to make choices. Do you need a fast shutter speed because its action and you want a sharp shot - do you need a small aperture because you want a big depth of field etc...


From that point on you can make your choice yourself. You can pre-visualise and have an idea of what you want the shot to look like; and from there you can start to settle into what mode best works in the light and situation you're in; or at least what mode work best for you most of the time. Note that the dominant setting isn't always the mode you work in - shutter speed might be important, but you might just as easily work in aperture priority mode. 


And a big part of it is repetition and practice. The more you do the faster, easier and more instinctive things will get. You won't have to think half as hard, you'll know what you need to do and when and how. You can't get there any other way; there is no short-cut and no easy way around it other than experience; both with each mode and with different subjects, lighting and experimentation with different styles of artistic display.


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## Overread (May 28, 2014)

THREAD NOTICE 
That's enough arguing about the use of abbreviations.


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## hamlet (May 28, 2014)

runnah said:


> Derrel said:
> 
> 
> > Manual mode is vastly overrated, especially for beginning users.
> ...



M mode has unseen advantages such as purposely underexposing your picture by two stops to get that extra shutter speed to avoid a blurry picture. You can crank up your exposure in post but you can never recover from a blurry picture.


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## Overread (May 28, 2014)

hamlet said:


> runnah said:
> 
> 
> > Derrel said:
> ...



True, but you can also use exposure compensation in the priority modes to under or over expose. Of course sometimes you really do have to use manual - flash photography where the flash is providing all the light is a prime example of where exposure compensation in priority modes is just not enough.


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## runnah (May 28, 2014)

hamlet said:


> runnah said:
> 
> 
> > Derrel said:
> ...




Exposure comp.


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## KmH (May 28, 2014)

*Jargon*, technical terminology, or term of art.


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## table1349 (May 28, 2014)

TheLost said:


> Having grown up in the stone-age of 35mm cameras (Pre - Auto focus, only Manual) it always makes me laugh when people think its more 'ARTSY / HARD CORE' to only shoot manual.  I like to spend my time thinking about how i want my picture to look..  and i let the camera figure out the technical details.  There is no shame in using A(perture) or S(hutter) priority.
> 
> I also take a lighter with me camping... Its way easier then rubbing two sticks together.



Artsy - Nah.   Good to know how to use - yes.  Need to use all the time - No. 

I also started in 1970 with manual only cameras and have lots of shooting time.  It becomes natural.  But then I also grew up in the days of manual transmissions and can drive anything manual from a 3 speed to an 18 speed.  Don't use it much, but there have been times when I was the ONLY one that could do it in a pinch.  

When camping I take a lighter.   I also take flint an steel.  Flint and Steel don't run out of fuel and it's just not that hard to master.  

Exactly when did we go from a society that was interested in learning to letting technology do it all for us?  Me I use technology, but I also want to learn what is behind it, just in case it breaks or doesn't do exactly what I want.


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## table1349 (May 28, 2014)

Overread said:


> THREAD NOTICE
> That's enough arguing about the use of abbreviations.


Okay, looks like the MOD has dictated the COA.  If you don't want him to get PO'ed then we better keep it on the QT unless you want to do some KP which is NFG cause this thread could become FUBAR RFF. Remember RHIP. 







Overread, you had to know I couldn't resist.  :mrgreen:


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## TheLost (May 28, 2014)

gryphonslair99 said:


> Artsy - Nah.   Good to know how to use - yes.  Need to use all the time - No.
> 
> I also started in 1970 with manual only cameras and have lots of shooting time.  It becomes natural.  But then I also grew up in the days of manual transmissions and can drive anything manual from a 3 speed to an 18 speed.  Don't use it much, but there have been times when I was the ONLY one that could do it in a pinch.
> 
> ...



Just a refresher... here is the OP-i-mean-original-posters.. um.. Original Post (i bolded the important stuff):



SuperMiguel said:


> So I currently have a D7100, got it few months back,* just got to take family pics for trips*, so i mostly shoot in auto mode, i been lately trying to switch to A/S mode, and even manual mode, but the problem i have is for example in manual mode where i do get the ambient light sensor it takes me about 10-20 seconds (sometimes way longer) to get my settings where they are close to mid in the sensor, *most of the time when im in a family trip things happens instantaneously*, or i just have few seconds to take the shoot and *i dont have those 20 seconds to adjust settings*, is there anything i can do to get faster at manual mode?



So i ask again..  Why does he want to use Manual mode?


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## table1349 (May 28, 2014)

When someone wants to learn something new is WHY really that important?


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## The_Traveler (May 28, 2014)

Why doesn't he learn to shoot pictures while riding on a unicycle?
That's considerably more difficult and physically challenging and, in the same way, doesn't really contribute in any substantive way to the final image.


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## table1349 (May 28, 2014)

The_Traveler said:


> Why doesn't he learn to shoot pictures while riding on a unicycle?
> That's considerably more difficult and physically challenging and, in the same way, doesn't really contribute in any substantive way to the final image.


How do you know it doesn't?


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## SuperMiguel (May 28, 2014)

@The_Traveler wow dude... get a life every single one of your comments have been nasty and useless.. sad that u have 12k comments of ****.. maybe u are a god in this forums but chill a bit and try to help instead of bashing everyone.. ...

Also thanks everyone that tried helping... 

Is there a way to get a exposure meter on A or S mode?


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## 480sparky (May 28, 2014)

SuperMiguel said:


> .........Is there a way to get a exposure meter on A or S mode?




Either mode will meter the scene.  A will allow you to set the apeture and the camera will set the shutter.  S is the reverse... you set the shutter speed and the camera changes the aperture.

This is assuming you mean A(perture) or S(hutter) modes.  I tried Googling A and S and couldn't find much help there.


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## coffeefilter (May 28, 2014)

SuperMiguel said:


> Is there a way to get a exposure meter on A or S mode?



Does it not show up in your viewfinder? My camera does. It also shows up on the shooting info screen. I use manual, aperture priority and shutter priority on a Nikon D40x and it shows the exposure meter in every mode. I also have auto-ISO turned off, I don't know if that makes the difference.


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## SuperMiguel (May 28, 2014)

Well im taking about the meter it self, that comes up when you go into manual mode... and when i change my aperture or my shutter speed it goes to the right or left..


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## TheLost (May 28, 2014)

SuperMiguel said:


> @The_Traveler wow dude... get a life every single one of your comments have been nasty and useless.. sad that u have 12k comments of ****.. maybe u are a god in this forums but chill a bit and try to help instead of bashing everyone.. ...
> 
> Also thanks everyone that tried helping...
> 
> Is there a way to get a exposure meter on A or S mode?



The exposure meter is front and center in the viewfinder window (page 9 in the D7100 manual) no matter what mode you are in.  However, im still not 100% what your after. 

Don't get mad.. but do you understand how A/S/M modes work? I ask because you don't need the meter in A/S mode.. you just control the aperture/shutter and the camera adjusts everything else.


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## table1349 (May 28, 2014)

You may or may not have an exposure meter when in Apeture or Shutter mode.  The reason that you may not is that in those modes the camera is selecting the settings necessary to achieve the proper exposure.  The proper exposure in either of those modes would by default have a centered meter reading.


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## astroNikon (May 28, 2014)

I think my meter only shows up in Manual mode - d7000 & d600
it does a disappearing act in the other modes

at least I think it does ... I only so often go into Aperture Priority mode and I've noticed it missing in action.


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## Derrel (May 28, 2014)

SuperMiguel said:
			
		

> So I currently have a D7100, got it few months back,* just got to take family pics for trips*, so i mostly shoot in auto mode, i been lately trying to switch to A/S mode, and even manual mode, but the problem i have is for example in manual mode where i do get the ambient light sensor it takes me about 10-20 seconds (sometimes way longer) to get my settings where they are close to mid in the sensor, *most of the time when im in a family trip things happens instantaneously*, or i just have few seconds to take the shoot and *i dont have those 20 seconds to adjust settings*, is there anything i can do to get faster at manual mode?



Again, the bolded parts hold special significance. When shooting pictures of family trips, you know, where things happen instantaneously, and the photographer has "just a few seconds" to get the shot that is desired, the most OBVIOUS method for *grab-shooting* to those with knowledge of a modern d-slr like the Nikon D7100, a camera with 3-D, color-aware, distance-aware, and Scene Recognition System light metering technologies, along with Matrix metering that has been refined for over a quarter century is.....AUTO ISO in aperture priority automatic, with matrix metering.

Use AUTO ISO, and aperture priority,automatic setting!!! Program in the Maximum allowable ISO, the way Nikon allows users to do, and set the minimum shutter speed as appropriate to the lens length. Outdoors in the spring and summer, I would set the minimum shutter speed to 1/200 second, and the Maximum ISO to 1600. BOOM! DONE!

If the OP wants to use Manual exposure mode, using AUTO ISO is ALSO recommended by me, and others. Like astroNikon mentioned, the key is to pick a basically "safe" and "appropriate" baseline exposure at the very start of the situation you find yourself in; meaning something that has enough shutter speed to stop subject movement, and to prevent accidental camera shake from spoiling too many images. My experience is that 1/200 or 1/250 second is the minimum (slowest allowed) shutter speed to keep most subjects rendered sharply when doing *grab-shooting*. 

With a camera like the D7100, the ISO performance is very good up to 1,250 to 1,600 outdoors, so with that camera, it's better to let the ISO go up, and be able to keep a 1/200 second shutter speed and an f/stop of f/5.6, than it is to worry about keeping the ISO low to avoid the imaginary noise issues internet forum types often fuss and worry over. The goal in grab-shooting is to _turn family memories into photographs before the moments pass by_. Grab-shooting is about shooting FAST, so the priority is on a fast shutter speed, and an f/stop that yields some depth of field (like f/5.6), and which is useful with wide-angle lengths, as well as more-telephoto lengths. Let AUTO ISO handle the small stuff.

I shot this way this Memorial Day weekend myself. I got a lot of good memories, using AUTO ISO, set to 1/200 sec minimum speed, max ISO 1600, using a 24mm, 35mm, and 70-300 VR lens. I shot Matrix metering, at f/5.6, in both AUTO, and Manual modes.


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## SuperMiguel (May 28, 2014)

TheLost said:


> SuperMiguel said:
> 
> 
> > @The_Traveler wow dude... get a life every single one of your comments have been nasty and useless.. sad that u have 12k comments of ****.. maybe u are a god in this forums but chill a bit and try to help instead of bashing everyone.. ...
> ...




Gotcha and i will agree with @The_Traveler after i bash him... and probably agree with most of comments.. Maybe i just want to shoot in manual mode, because some people say thats the mode to shoot on, and that i will only get good pictures if i shoot in this mode... many of the books i have read including: Nikon D7100: From Snapshots to Great Shots by John Batdorff states that the porpose of that book is to start shooting in manual mode.. Thats why im so anal about this.. maybe im doing it wrong.. and should focus in A/S modes


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## astroNikon (May 28, 2014)

I learned alot shooting in manual mode

but is speed is what you are after in certain situations then I always use Aperture Priority mode .. and usually put AUTO ISO on
If you have a little bit more time to dial in your settings and get the exact exposure you want, then Manual.


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## SuperMiguel (May 28, 2014)

Also i currently have an 18-105mm and a 35mm 1.8 lens, since im new to all this im not sure i have the right lenses for what im doing, i feel like the zoom is fine, but i would like a lens that could cover more i guess they are called wide lenses, and the 35 1.8 is awesome for low light pictures, but it doesnt have zoom..


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## mmaria (May 28, 2014)

oh... I didn't say anything here...

I shoot manual. Why? Because I'm kind of stuck with it. At first it was because I wanted to learn, now it's just because... I have no reason, it's just I'm so used to it. My fingers are doing things by themselves and that's the whole philosophy. Sometimes I do think that I should maybe play with the modes but I simply forget.

Doesn't matter, really... You have tons of other things to worry about


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## 480sparky (May 28, 2014)

SuperMiguel said:


> Also i currently have an 18-105mm and a 35mm 1.8 lens, since im new to all this im not sure i have the right lenses for what im doing, i feel like the zoom is fine, but i would like a lens that could cover more i guess they are called wide lenses, and the 35 1.8 is awesome for low light pictures, but it doesnt have zoom..



Lenses have nothing to do with shooting in Manual.


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## The_Traveler (May 28, 2014)

You've come up against some physical laws, super fast and zoom just don't go together.
In fact, medium fast and zoom and cheap don't go together either.
There is no magic bullet to cure that but you can get around that a bit.

Like Derrel says below.
Set your camera to aperture preferred, set the lowest shutter speed to somewhere about 125 (yes, that's slower than Derrel said but I have to show some independence), set auto iso on and use sneaker-zoom. 
Move around, get those pictures, the D7100 will deliver great images - and you'll have the joy of taking pictures and not the frustration of trying to change settings.

because that's what this is about, pictures.
when you decide you need more control, then experiment with other things.




Derrel said:


> Use AUTO ISO, and aperture priority,automatic setting!!! Program in the Maximum allowable ISO, the way Nikon allows users to do, and set the minimum shutter speed as appropriate to the lens length. Outdoors in the spring and summer, I would set the minimum shutter speed to 1/200 second, and the Maximum ISO to 1600. BOOM! DONE!


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## The_Traveler (May 28, 2014)

About 18 months ago I wrote an post entitled '*Shooting in P mode*' which got 210 responses and a couple of thousand views.
I cross posted that on my own blog and it got several hundred views and some interesting comments.

Here are two:



> I always recommend beginning photographers to start with the P-mode. Some are perfectly happy with it and will not get out of it, others do.
> "Take a few hundred, if not thousand, pictures first" is usually my reply when they ask about those kind of settings.
> 
> For those that tell us that it should really be M-mode all the way because that's the way I learned it, and that's the way it should be learned, I'd like to point out that theyre posting this on a GUI-driven web forum, and not on a text only usenet forum with a keyboard only interface, as it should be, because that's the way *I* learned it.
> ...





> I am pretty sure that most "enthusiasts" like cameras more than they like photographs.
> There's nothing wrong with this, cameras are fun, but trouble crops up when these people don't know that they don't like photographs.
> They think they like photographs, but what they really like are techniques, tricks, equipment, and a very very specific kind of photograph (which varies, everyone has their own pet genre which they confuse with "good photography")


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## SuperMiguel (May 28, 2014)

so when you guys say you shoot in auto mode, you really mean AUTO mode or P mode? whats the difference?


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## 480sparky (May 28, 2014)

SuperMiguel said:


> so when you guys say you shoot in auto mode, you really mean AUTO mode or P mode? whats the difference?



With Nikons, AUTO means you can't change anything.  At all.

P (Programmed) at least allows you to change the parameters of the exposure.  For instance, if the camera chooses 1/250 at f/8, you have the ability to either change it to /1/125 at f/16, or 1/500 at f/8.  Or, you can invoke exposure compensation, and over- or under-expose the image based on your interpretation of the lighting.


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## table1349 (May 28, 2014)

If you want a better understanding read pages 3,4,5,& 6. P: Program Mode | Nikon D5100: The Professional Modes | Peachpit


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## PaulWog (May 28, 2014)

I just use aperture priority mode 90% of the time, unless if I know I need to use manual mode or if I'm in a very slow and controlled setting.

I often just select the proper exposure meter, lock in the exposure I want for a particular shot once I have grabbed it (ie. with spot exposure), and shoot. That's instead of switching out of aperture priority and into manual.


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## vintagesnaps (May 28, 2014)

I think it will probably take time and practice to get good at being able to change settings quickly; Captain N gave a good explanation. I've always used mostly mechanical film cameras where there _is_ no auto, that's how I learned and I use manual settings with my digital camera. I think I like the control over camera settings shooting manually, with modes I feel like the camera has a mind of its own. Shooting with manual settings for me is second nature and not hard to do; over time I've just gotten pretty efficient at framing and composing photos and adjusting focus fairly quickly. And certainly have had countless hours of practice.  

But on occasion I use a point 'n shoot, and I use Polaroid cameras where it's pretty much all auto - push a button and out pops a picture, no muss no fuss! lol There isn't a right or wrong, it's figuring out what works for you.


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## lizheaemma (May 28, 2014)




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## SuperMiguel (May 29, 2014)

lol so only P mode for u?


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## SuperMiguel (May 29, 2014)

Also can any one explain flash.. Like when in in P/A/S mode, to use flash i just push the flash button, will the camera make adjustments to my A and S based on the flash being on?


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## 480sparky (May 29, 2014)

SuperMiguel said:


> lol so only P mode for u?




No.  The mode dial is taped to M.


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## 480sparky (May 29, 2014)

SuperMiguel said:


> Also can any one explain flash.. Like when in in P/A/S mode, to use flash i just push the flash button, will the camera make adjustments to my A and S based on the flash being on?



Yeppers!


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## SuperMiguel (May 29, 2014)

So how does the camera know when i have a different flash? like if i get a SB400 how does it know it has a bigger flash?


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## 480sparky (May 29, 2014)

SuperMiguel said:


> So how does the camera know when i have a different flash? like if i get a SB400 how does it know it has a bigger flash?



Yes.  The newer speedlights have electronic communication with the camera.  If you look at your camera's hot shoe, you'll see 4 contacts.


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## SuperMiguel (May 29, 2014)

is that a good starting flash? for night pictures with the familily? SB400? do you guys recommend another one? I know its going out of topic.. but dont want to start another one to keep from staring another thread, looking for something very portable as well...


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## OrionsByte (May 29, 2014)

I wouldn't buy an SB400 - it would probably be okay for you NOW, but it wouldn't really grow with you. Look for a used SB-600, so you get swivel as well as tilt, plus the option to use Nikon's CLR system for off-camera flash capabilities later on.


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## 480sparky (May 29, 2014)

SB400 is about as basic as you can get.  You'll probably quickly out-grow it.


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## photoguy99 (May 29, 2014)

I'll pay my dues here by suggesting that you practice ignoring the meter, and dialing in a workable exposure for conditions. You should be able to get somewhat decent exposures by simply guessing shutter speed, aperture, and ISO, relatively fast. Not necessarily great, and probably never ideal, but in the usable ballpark you should be able to pick up pretty quickly.

That said, I do not understand the concept of "outgrowing" equipment. This strikes me as a planted axiom designed by manufacturers to justify purchasing fancier gear, and adopted gladly by people who mainly want to buy fancier gear.

Yes, your tastes and needs will change and become refined as you gain experience. There is no reason to suppose that your tastes and needs will change and be refined in the direction of a more expensive speedlight. They might change to hating flash, or toward wanting studio strobes, or wanting a ringlight for macro, or simply wanting 2 more of the cheap one, or whatever. You might decide you need more pixels, or you might decide you don't care and what you want is less weight. You might decide that you want to shoot film.

The idea that one should buy the expensive one straight off because you'll outgrow the entry level one is, as nearly as I can tell, a myth. A myth promoted mainly by people who bought the expensive one.


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## 480sparky (May 29, 2014)

photoguy99 said:


> .......That said, I do not understand the concept of "outgrowing" equipment. .........



Take an SB400 and pop it onto your Nikon.  Turn the camera to portrait orientation.  Now, bounce the flash off the ceiling and let me know how it goes.


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## Derrel (May 29, 2014)

Manufacturers deliberately segment their lines of products, so that there *are* less-capable, more-capable, and fully-capable pieces of equipment. If everything sold was as fully capable as everything else, all the shooters at Sports-Illustrated would be shooting with Nikon D3200's and Canon T5i's and 18-55 kit zooms and 70-300 f/4.5~5.6 lenses. Good. Better. Best.

Here is a look at the SB-400 flash, which is discontinued, but as is the case with many products not in high demand, plenty are still available as NOS.
Nikon SB-400


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## OrionsByte (May 29, 2014)

photoguy99 said:


> The idea that one should buy the expensive one straight off because you'll outgrow the entry level one is, as nearly as I can tell, a myth. A myth promoted mainly by people who bought the expensive one.



So assuming Miguel went out and bought an SB-400 and started posting pictures here, the chances are, he would be posting shots where the flash was aimed straight at the subject, and the more helpful TPF members would point out that doing so yields flat lighting and harsh shadows, and that he should learn to bounce the flash.

No problem! The SB-400 can tilt up to 90 degrees! So Miguel starts pointing the flash up at the ceiling and posts some more photos. There are noticeable improvements, but people are also quick to point out that his subjects now have "raccoon eyes" - shadows in the eye sockets - since the light source is now higher than they are. They suggest bouncing the flash off a wall instead, or finding a way to bounce a fraction of the light forward to fill in the shadows.

Well bouncing the flash off the wall is a problem, because the SB-400 doesn't swivel. So basically the options here are shoot in landscape and bounce off the ceiling, or shoot in portrait and bounce off the wall. Alright. Option two would be modifying the flash with a bounce card or diffusion dome, which would also help, but as Miguel learned to use all of these techniques, he would quickly start realizing how much the capabilities of the flash limit his creative options. Still, Miguel would be able to improve his photography and get a lot of helpful advice from TPF about how to maximize his equipment to get decent photos.

And that might be fine. That might be all Miguel will ever need or want. But if he is anything like me, he will get frustrated with those limitations really quickly. Spending a little more money on the outset gives you room to grow and probably saves money in the long run, because once you hit the wall with the equipment you already paid for, the only option is to buy more equipment. 

An SB-600 is a flash that offers two big advantages: it can tilt AND swivel, which allows you to bounce off of just about any surface you can see, and it can be used OFF-CAMERA using the features already built in to the D7100. Off-camera flash is a HUGE HUGE HUGE step forward once you get there, and an SB-400 would not let you do that without investing in radio triggers or something like that, which would be silly. Right?


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## photoguy99 (May 29, 2014)

480sparky said:


> photoguy99 said:
> 
> 
> > .......That said, I do not understand the concept of "outgrowing" equipment. .........
> ...




See, this is exactly the fallacy. It assumes that the natural thing one wants to do _after a while_ is to turn the camera on its side and bounce flash off the ceiling.

Why on earth is this particular operation step 6 of a 37 step process? Why wouldn't it be something you'd want to do straight off? Why wouldn't it be something you'd never want to do? It happens to be something I never want to do, and have never wanted to do. I seem to have skipped step 6 of the Photographer's Progress chart, I guess? And in case you're wondering, I've been at this for.. a while. I've done quite a lot of "growing" but it has almost never been driven by, nor has it driven, equipment purchases.

Yes, I am aware that manufacturers are at great pains to:

1) promote the idea that one outgrows equipment. They want to sell the entry level AND the midlevel AND the toplevel whateveritis.
2) engineer their product lines as much as possible to make this happen, by carefully placing features into devices
3) manage their marketing materials as much as possible to match that, and to drive that narrative of "progress"

The point is that you don't have to listen to them. You don't have to accept their program for a photographer's growth. You can skip ahead and
buy the expensive one right away, you can skip steps entirely. The "natural growth" pattern is a fiction, albeit a widely accepted one. I offer as somewhat non-specific evidence, myself. I have never, not one single time, over several decades "upgraded" to the next level of any piece of photographic equipment, and I own thousands of dollars worth of various crap that takes pictures, produces light, holds other things, etc etc, at varying degrees of quality on varying media, and so on and so forth.

I either own the right piece of gear already, or I make do with not quite the right piece of gear.

This is because I don't love gear, I quite dislike gear. Gear is a pain in my ass. Gear is the stuff between me and my photos. If you love gear, well, that's a different deal. Not a worse one, not a better one, just different.


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## photoguy99 (May 29, 2014)

Ugh, that was a huge derail. Sorry, I was just looking to make a side comment but got carried away. I'm done now, I promise.


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## Overread (May 29, 2014)

Photoguy - don't forget most of the time the natural progression of gear isn't so much the idea that you must start with low end, learn and then buy into higher end as you need to; but is more a reflection of the fact that most people (esp hobby level) getting into photography are not going to be in a position where they can honestly justify the high end gear costs. Further they don't actually know what they want nor understand the limits of the equipment they are purchasing - so they go entry level and often then upgrade to higher tier equipment as they are able to and if they develop enough interest and need to start wanting to do more advanced stuff.


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## sonicbuffalo (May 29, 2014)

I think gear is very important, but the features are over rated!


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## 480sparky (May 29, 2014)

photoguy99 said:


> See, this is exactly the fallacy. It assumes that the natural thing one wants to do _after a while_ is to turn the camera on its side and bounce flash off the ceiling....




So, everyone with an SB400 won't ever want to take a photo in portrait orientation and will never want to bounce a flash off the ceiling?  Perhaps you should accept the fact that not everyone shoots and thinks exactly like you do.



photoguy99 said:


> Why on earth is this particular operation step 6 of a 37 step process?



Who said it was?  



photoguy99 said:


> Why wouldn't it be something you'd want to do straight off?



Um, perhaps some people don't know everything about equipment.  Maybe they cannot conceive using a piece of gear in the field while standing in the store.  Or, God forbid, they_ just cannot afford it_.



photoguy99 said:


> Why ...............different.



Then again, some people like to buy gear because they _enjoy_ it and can *afford *it.  So why deny them?

Some people spend their money on restoring old cars & trucks.  Some like to take exotic vacations.  Some will spend thousands on a single golf club.  It's their money... as long as they aren't starving their children, who are you or I to judge?


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## photoguy99 (May 29, 2014)

PM me if you're actually interested in my response. I've muddied the thread enough.


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## SuperMiguel (May 29, 2014)

a flash something i should get? like been new to all this photography thing?


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## 480sparky (May 29, 2014)

SuperMiguel said:


> a flash something i should get? like been new to all this photography thing?



We can't answer that.  Only you can.


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## SuperMiguel (May 29, 2014)

Well like i know i night i need it, but im always taking pics in the go, like at parks or something outside the house... And dont have many walls... and i dont want to carry much, like alot of weight..


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## OrionsByte (May 29, 2014)

My advice - don't buy any gear until you're absolutely sure you need it. You know you need it when on more than a few occasions you find yourself thinking that the whole thing would have been better/easier with X piece of equipment.


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## SuperMiguel (May 29, 2014)

Well i do know that some times at night or in a dark place, ill take pics and they dont come up as good as i would like.. like missing light..

Any flash out there, with the size of the sb400 that can swivel 360 degrees?


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## SuperMiguel (Jul 3, 2014)

Derrel said:


> I would set the minimum shutter speed to 1/200 second, and the Maximum ISO to 1600. BOOM! DONE!



This is in this menu?


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## Derrel (Jul 3, 2014)

SuperMiguel said:


> Derrel said:
> 
> 
> > I would set the minimum shutter speed to 1/200 second, and the Maximum ISO to 1600. BOOM! DONE!
> ...



This is indeed the instructions page for the AUTO ISO menu. Note that YOU, the user, can set the Minimum ISO value or the "Normal One in Use", at the top panel, to be higher than the default of 100 ISO. Down below, set the Maximum ISO sensitivity you want to allow to be used.


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## SuperMiguel (Jul 3, 2014)

Should i mess with that? or just leave it as 100 ON 1600 and 1/200 sec

Going to take few pictures this weekend and wanted to try this out... Ill probably get away from auto mode this weekend and get into A/S/P mode =)


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## D7K (Jul 3, 2014)

gryphonslair99 said:


> DarkShadow said:
> 
> 
> > Yea breast feed is the way to go.:thumbup:
> ...



Was not prepared... Cannot unsee......


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## WayneF (Jul 3, 2014)

SuperMiguel said:


> So I currently have a D7100, got it few months back, just got to take family pics for trips, so i mostly shoot in auto mode, i been lately trying to switch to A/S mode, and even manual mode, but the problem i have is for example in manual mode where i do get the ambient light sensor it takes me about 10-20 seconds (sometimes way longer) to get my settings *where they are close to mid in the sensor*, most of the time when im in a family trip things happens instantaneously, or i just have few seconds to take the shoot and i dont have those 20 seconds to adjust settings, is there anything i can do to get faster at manual mode?




If you are just centering the meter in M mode, then one opinion is that you're wasting time.  Choose the most important factor about your picture.  If it is depth of field, then in camera A mode, you can choose and set your aperture, and the automation will center the meter.  Or if it is stopping motion, you could use camera S mode and choose your shutter speed, and the automation will center the meter.  Does it really matter who centers the meter?     This is control, you are still controlling the important choices by setting either aperture or shutter speed. And once chosen, the other value is not really arbitrary, centering the meter is normally a good thing.  The computer can do that well, and fast.   Except in A mode, sometimes we realize the final combination is not best, and we reselect and do it over.  In A mode, this is just one setting change, not two.  

 Again, does it really matter who centers the meter?

     If you are planning to apply some compensation, adjusting it to be a little off one way or other, then M mode does allow that easily.

I like camera A mode, but I do use camera M mode, mostly with flash,  when I am adjusting the light to a specific exposure.  If I am adjusting the camera to the light, then camera A or S mode does that, really fast, and I still have control of the important parameters.


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## WayneF (Jul 3, 2014)

SuperMiguel said:


> Also can any one explain flash.. Like when in in P/A/S mode, to use flash i just push the flash button, will the camera make adjustments to my A and S based on the flash being on?



No.   Using TTL flash, the  camera simply meters the ambient, and sets the settings for the ambient.     Presence of the flash can limit minimum and maximum shutter speed (which does not affect the flash exposure).  All TTL metering does is to adjust flash power level to work into the ISO and aperture settings that it discovers in place.  It is a very good plan to turn Auto ISO OFF for flash (absolutely required for manual flash mode).    Camera models vary, but with many current camera models, flash pictures in dim indoors (places where we need flash) will discover a very high ISO is in use, in spite of our using flash.

See Four Flash Photography Basics we must know - Flash pictures are Double Exposures   regarding *Necessary Things To Know about Nikon TTL flash.*


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## table1349 (Jul 3, 2014)

SuperMiguel said:


> So I currently have a D7100, got it few months back, just got to take family pics for trips, so i mostly shoot in auto mode, i been lately trying to switch to A/S mode, and even manual mode, but the problem i have is for example in manual mode where i do get the ambient light sensor it takes me about 10-20 seconds (sometimes way longer) to get my settings where they are close to mid in the sensor, most of the time when im in a family trip things happens instantaneously, or i just have few seconds to take the shoot and i dont have those 20 seconds to adjust settings, is there anything i can do to get faster at manual mode?



Late to the thread but I will put it to you quick and simple.  JUST DO IT!  Pay attention to what you do, learn from you mistakes, correct them and learn.  Like learning to drive a stick shift.  You have to understand the basics of steering, what the gas peddle, brake peddle and clutch peddle do.  They you go out and do it.  You get the hang of it, you get smother and quicker.


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## hamlet (Jul 3, 2014)

I don't go into manual anymore really or very rarely when auto is not an option. Aperture priority can be used for slow moving or stationary subjects, shutter priority i use for when i want to capture something fast or if i'm going for a certain creative look.


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## greybeard (Jul 3, 2014)

SuperMiguel said:


> most of the time when im in a family trip things happens instantaneously, or i just have few seconds to take the shoot and i dont have those 20 seconds to adjust settings, is there anything i can do to get faster at manual mode?


That is what automatic modes are for, quick grab shots when you don't have time for manual adjustments.  I personally use manual exposure and focus only when the situation calls for it.  Missing a shot because you are fumbling with camera settings is letting the tail wag the dog. (imho)


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## Derrel (Jul 3, 2014)

WayneF said:
			
		

> If you are just centering the meter in M mode, then one opinion is that you're wasting time.  Choose the most important factor about your picture.  If it is depth of field, then in camera A mode, you can choose and set your aperture, and the automation will center the meter.  Or if it is stopping motion, you could use camera S mode and choose your shutter speed, and the automation will center the meter.  Does it really matter who centers the meter?     This is control, you are still controlling the important choices by setting either aperture or shutter speed. And once chosen, the other value is not really arbitrary, centering the meter is normally a good thing.  The computer can do that well, and fast.   Except in A mode, sometimes we realize the final combination is not best, and we reselect and do it over.  In A mode, this is just one setting change, not two.
> 
> Again, does it really matter who centers the meter?
> 
> ...



Everything Wayne said above makes total sense to me. The one thing to add is that by using AUTO ISO, you can set a Manual exposure; meaning set a specific shutter speed, and a specific f/stop, and the camera's automation can MAKE THAT BE the right "centered" exposure, as the light level goes up or down, or as the camera swings from a dark area, to a lighter area, or as a dog runs from the dim twilight camera left, and runs right past the blinding, 12 stops brighrer setting sun's reflection on a wet, sandy beach...all withyout you doing anything except tracking the running dog, and shooting images.

Using AUTO ISO with a modern Pentax or Nikon, you can make BOTH of the creative choices, the f/stop for DOF and the shutter for motion stopping or whatnot, and then the Automatic ISO adjustment can cause those to be "the right exposure"...basically, instantly. You can also add or subtract exposure compensation, for the degree of desired offset. This way of shooting was NOT really that viable until the Sony Exmoor generation of ultra-wide DR sensors with amazing high-ISO performance hit the market in Pentax cameras, and at that time, Nikon tweaked the way their AUTO ISO system worked in manual exposure metering mode (*by copying Pentax*, the company that invented the idea of Auto ISO that worked in MANUAL mode, years earlier). Other camera makers have not completely followed suit. I've recently begun using this method myself with an FX Nikon, and the freedom and consistency it brings is amazing. It was simply NOT a good way to shoot with the D2x and sensors of that era, which had wayyyyy more limited DR and much worse performance at higher ISO values.


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## greybeard (Jul 5, 2014)

Derrel said:


> WayneF said:
> 
> 
> 
> ...


I had never used or thought of using Auto ISO until reading this.  I have an old POS 70-300 f/4-5.6 non VR that is descent when shot at 1/1000 and f/8-f/11  Auto ISO gives me the freedom to use this lens.  Just set the aperture and shutter speed on manual and Auto ISO and snap away.


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