# Whats better Nikon flash or Yongnuo



## vipgraphx

So Im wanting to get into some creative lighting and looking for some flash for the d750.

I used to have the sb-700 and was thinking about purchasing maybe a sb-700 and sb-500 and perhaps a trigger.

BUT, of course NIKON brand does cost more money.

I was searching Amazon and came across this
*Yongnuo Professional Flash Speedlight Flashlight Yongnuo YN 560 III*

For $68 bucks I could get a couple of these along with the trigger for less than one sb-700.

My question for all you studio and flash photographers would I be sacrificing lighting or quality by going with 

Yongnuo brand?

I would love to get some tips on a lighting setup with off camera flash. Not so sure I am going to get a  strobe right now just looking for a few flashes to use and bring along with me.


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## astroNikon

I have 2 x SB-800, 1 x SB-700 and a Yongnuo 560ex
I bought the 560 strictly as a cheap BackGround flash.  To use with colored gels, etc. in my in-home, basement studio.

I initially was controlling everything off-camera with a Nikon SU-800
I was having a horrid time with the 560. Basically I found out anything farther than 8 feet away the flash was outside the InfraRed range. 

Thus I bought YN Radio Triggers.  622Ns and a 622-TX
I love these triggers.  Now I can do creative things with them that I wasn't able to before.
But, with the flash I've found out the flash may lose it's intensity after a few quick shots. Thus messing up the planned BG color that I was looking for.

I use the 560ex (supports SU-800s) strictly in Manual and strictly for a background.  I've learned just oot take my time on successive shots.

If I was a professional, I'd replace this in a heartbeat with a Nikon SB-700, or even an older SB-600.
Also, if I was a professional I'd more than likely go to strobes too for much more flexible use of modifiers.

The color of light is fine, as is the intensity when it doesn't fall off.
But the low price of Yongnuo's put them in so cheap a territory that they are, if they break you throw them away and buy a new one.  The low price is excellent to get into off camera flash.


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## MOREGONE

Do we really have to ask which is better?

That said, Yongnuo makes some solid products but they are in no way (except price) superior to the products they copy/reverse engineer.

I am one frugal dude and should have my 2nd Yongnuo flash waiting on the porch for me when I get home, the YN565ex. Alread own the YN-560-II and have no complaints.


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## Mirrorless Journey

The Nikon flash is better and can be used on the camera without fear of breaking something. With that said, I have 2 Yong Nuo 460 II and I love them. I use them with a radio transmitter for off-camera lighting. They cost me about 40$ each so if the wind catch the light and it falls down, my heart does not stop over it. They are built quite solid though because I have been using them in many different conditions and they never failed. They don't have many fancy options, but that is actually a good point. They are fast and easy to setup for a shoot and cheaply replaceable.


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## sm4him

I think the question shouldn't be "which one is better." 

The question is "would the cheaper Yongnuo flash suit YOUR needs just as well as the Nikon?"

I've yet to find anything about my Yongnuo flash that limits me in what I do.  For that reason, I'd buy another one before I'd purchase a Nikon brand speedlight.

But if I did a lot of flash photography for a living, I might have a different opinion.


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## vipgraphx

sm4him said:


> I think the question shouldn't be "which one is better."
> 
> The question is "would the cheaper Yongnuo flash suit YOUR needs just as well as the Nikon?"
> 
> I've yet to find anything about my Yongnuo flash that limits me in what I do.  For that reason, I'd buy another one before I'd purchase a Nikon brand speedlight.
> 
> But if I did a lot of flash photography for a living, I might have a different opinion.



Yes that would be the better question and what I really had in mind to begin with. 

I would like to get into this creative lighting and it would be great to do it cheaper.  

I went out tonight and bought a Sb-700 and did a test shot. I can see already that I would really benefit from another if not two more flashes to help with shadows.

I also noticed that sometimes the Sb-700 did not fire and I am not sure if the camera has to face the flash for it to fire off. I remember reading something about this issue and to get remote triggers that would help firing off the flash where ever the flash is located as long as it is in range..
Is this true?

can someone recommend a quality reliable remote trigger.

I think I might just go ahead and purchase those flashes on amazon as they are not expensive at all and I would like to get some remote triggers to go along with them.

The other thing I was hoping to get some advice is, is it better to use a remote trigger rather than the pop up flash? it seems like the pop up flash is not as useful in the creative lighting but only to fire off the other off camera flash. Help?


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## pixmedic

we used mostly nikon sb600's and sb700's until the Yongnuo 568EX's came out. (I wanted TTL and HSS)
now we have half a dozen YN568EX's with the YN622n radio triggers and LOVE THEM!
TTL and HSS work flawlessly. I would certainly recommend them to anyone looking for flashes, and I definitely recommend the yongnuo triggers over the horribly overpriced Pocket Wizards (unless you actually NEED 52 channels and 300 meter range) 
I cant speak for the other brands, but the yongnuos have performed perfectly for us for weddings and portraits. 

YN568EX flash review | Photography Forum

Yongnuo YN-622N trigger review! | Photography Forum


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## JoeW

Which one is "better" depends upon your needs and what you shoot.  I have 3 YN flashes and 3 Nikon speed lights.  I also have two sets of cheap triggers.

First, I like using the Nikon CLS.  I haven't purchased any of the YN (I think they're 560 EX models) that claim to work with CLS so I can't verify that.  But I love CLS and love being able to use off-camera flashes without having to put on triggers.  This is b/c I'll often be in a situation where I'm using ambient light and then decide I need to upgrade the light or go HK or remove some shadow so do suddenly go CLS is a lot easier for me.

Second, the YNs have generally been good.  I had one I lost due to battery leakage so the connections corroded.  As slaves they've been good.  They're reliable and take a beating (I travel with speed lights and flashes a lot).  Frankly, I've never used a YN on-camera (say...bouncing light off the ceiling when shooting an event) so I can't speak to how they do with that, I've always use'd em off camera with either a trigger or as a slave.

I think Nikon speed lights are simply better, easier to operate (if you're not just using them as basic slaves), and more versatile.  They've held up well (I have an SB-700 that is about 4 years old and just keeps plugging away despite thousands of fires).  They've also been very reliable and take a beating (at least 5 times I've had a soft box catch the wind and blow over or I did a lousy job attaching it and it fell off the stand and hit the floor).

If you're looking for a dirt cheap way of putting light on something (or you're looking to get 3-4-5 lights) and you're not especially particularly about the amount of light, then a YN is a good deal.  If you are going to be shooting indoors a lot with the speed light in an umbrella or soft box or you need to be able to accurately tweak settings or us iTTL, then I'd go with the Nikon options.


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## MOREGONE

Got the YN565ex in the mail yesterday as expected and just what I needed!

TTL and the external battery slot that's the same as the YN560. Did a couple test shots with a small 16x16 softbox and was pleased with the first shots. 

I also have the Meike MK-910, a knock off of the SB910 and while I have no specific gripes, I just don't like it that much. Works fine, but for some reason I prefer the Yongnuo's. 

I am also a fan of the 622's but have had some hiccups. My first 622TX was a dud and I didn't know it for awhile (certain indicators never lit up, wouldn't work on one of my cameras for some reason) and I have a 622n that likes to send but not receive. Weird. But at $90 a pair, they're awesome!

The pop up flash is great for controlled environments. Anything with distance or outdoors I would always look to triggers.


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## astroNikon

MOREGONE said:


> The pop up flash is great for controlled environments. Anything with distance or outdoors I would always look to triggers.


And if you are working creatively and use the popup flash to trigger, even with it's output put as low as possible, you still have to take that into consideration for your photo.

I really like the Yongnuo triggers.  I haven't had the issue of one TX being a dude, and a N not wanting to receive.  I guess for cheap triggers you have to deal with more potential headaches, same with the flashes.


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## WayneF

vipgraphx said:


> So Im wanting to get into some creative lighting and looking for some flash for the d750.
> 
> I used to have the sb-700 and was thinking about purchasing maybe a sb-700 and sb-500 and perhaps a trigger.
> 
> BUT, of course NIKON brand does cost more money.
> 
> I was searching Amazon and came across this
> *Yongnuo Professional Flash Speedlight Flashlight Yongnuo YN 560 III*
> 
> For $68 bucks I could get a couple of these along with the trigger for less than one sb-700.
> 
> My question for all you studio and flash photographers would I be sacrificing lighting or quality by going with
> 
> Yongnuo brand?
> 
> I would love to get some tips on a lighting setup with off camera flash. Not so sure I am going to get a  strobe right now just looking for a few flashes to use and bring along with me.





The SB-500 is a poor choice for an off camera flash. Other than with a Nikon commander, it has no menu, it has to use the camera menu, so it would be about useless off camera.  

The Yongnuo YN560 would make a good off camera flash, and the III has their built in radio trigger feature, but still ought to consider the YN565EX (at least one of them).  Only a few more dollars, and radio trigger can be added for only a few dollars, but then you also have a good TTL hot shoe flash for walk around bounce use, etc. Everyone needs that.  

See Review of the Yongnuo YN565EX Speedlight

More power than the SB-700, and the SB-700 price will buy three YN565EX (Amazon).


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## vipgraphx

So the Yongnuo YN560 lll has a built in radio trigger? is it iTTl as well?


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## vipgraphx

would this be the right flash for the D750


http://www.amazon.com/Yongnuo-YN560...60+III+Manual+Flash+Speedlite+Light+For+nikon


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## MOREGONE

vipgraphx said:


> So the Yongnuo YN560 lll has a built in radio trigger? is it iTTl as well?



The 560-III has a receiver built in. the 560-TX is a hotshoe device that can control the power out the flashes it is triggering, kinda like an SU800. The 560-IV is a flash has the ability to adjust the output of other 560-IV or -III's. The 560 series do not have any TTL capabilities.


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## MOREGONE

vipgraphx said:


> would this be the right flash for the D750
> 
> 
> http://www.amazon.com/Yongnuo-YN560-TX-Wireless-Controller-Speedlite/dp/B00OH7CFPA/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1414690869&sr=8-1&keywords=Yongnuo YN560-TX LCD Wireless Manual Flash Controller + 2pcs YN-560 III Manual Flash Speedlite Light For nikon



That would be a great start to Off Camera Flash. Just keep in mind, no TTL.


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## vipgraphx

After reviewing some youtube videos it seems that with the 560-tx you can do some cool stuff and have a lot of control of each light source. Perhaps this is also true to a nikon set up but, forgive my ignornacnce as I really don't know all the ins and outs to flash set ups.

I think I would like to order the 560-tx control along with two 560-lll flashes for now and see how that plays out for me. Is there a yongnuo that does have ttl ? I thought I read that the 560-lll does…maybe it was the yn565exn.


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## MOREGONE

The YN565 and YN568 both do TTL, but they not integrate with the YN560 system. So if you got the two 560's with a TX controlling them, and then want to add a YN565 for example, it will not be that easy. 

The difference between the YN565 and YN568, the 568 has HSS while the 565 has an external battery port.

I think the 560's are an excellent choice for most uses. If you're doing an event where conditions change quickly and often, the manual 560's may not be the best option. For studio, portrait, controlled environments, the 560 system is really hard to beat.


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## vipgraphx

but does not integrate with the YN560 system^^^

does this mean you can't use them together? 

would it be better to get two yn565 or two 560-III


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## MOREGONE

I revised my previous post. 

The 565's do not have a built in receiver so they require external triggers such as the YN-622. So if you wanted to later add a YN565 to the mix you would need two YN-622 Transceivers. One on camera and one on the flash. Then you could put the YN-560-TX on the 622 that is on camera to continue controlling the 560's.


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## vipgraphx

Oh I see. thanks so then it would be better for to start off with the 560-lll  and the 560 controller.


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## vipgraphx

another question regarding the 565 , does this operate like a nikon flash. From what the description is saying on amazon is that you can use this as a slave. So if I use the pop up flash and set it to commander I could then use this flash off camera without any receiver?


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## vipgraphx

I went ahead and ordered two 560 III and one  560 -tx

Should be here tomorrow thanks to amazon prime. I am looking forward to seeing the results and differences.

I have also considered another sb-700 and the nikon su-800…it is more expensive but is suppose to be very easy to use and can still use ittl.


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## WayneF

vipgraphx said:


> another question regarding the 565 , does this operate like a nikon flash. From what the description is saying on amazon is that you can use this as a slave. So if I use the pop up flash and set it to commander I could then use this flash off camera without any receiver?




Yes, the YN565EX can be a remote with the Nikon Commander, TTL or manual.   It can also be an optical slave for manual flash.  And of course hot shoe TTL, bounce, etc.    See Review of the Yongnuo YN565EX Speedlight


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## astroNikon

FYI,  I used a Su800 with my YN560ex  the IR trigger of the 560 is subpar on my unit. Cannot get further than 8 feet away.  Not very useful. So I went to RF triggers.


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## WayneF

astroNikon said:


> FYI,  I used a Su800 with my YN560ex  the IR trigger of the 560 is subpar on my unit. Cannot get further than 8 feet away.  Not very useful. So I went to RF triggers.




Try something other than the SU-800.  That's not what it is for.  It is doing Commander stuff, which is triggering the manual slave before the shutter was open.  You cannot mix Commanders with real manual stuff.

I used the D300 internal flash* at 1/128 manual power *(that would be equivalent to a hot shoe speedlight about 1/512 power level), and it easily triggers a YN565EX S1 slave at the 75 foot spec.  I have to open the front door and take the trigger outside to manage the 75 feet.


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## vipgraphx

astroNikon said:


> FYI,  I used a Su800 with my YN560ex  the IR trigger of the 560 is subpar on my unit. Cannot get further than 8 feet away.  Not very useful. So I went to RF triggers.



I don't know much but I was pretty sure the su-800 were not suppose to be used like that.  More for the nikon creative lighting.  But yeah from what I gathered when using the nikon flash off camera the range was poor and the flash did not always fire if the camera was infront of the flash.  I have that issue with the sb-700.  It's kinda annoying I have to make sure keep the flash within range and I front of the camera.


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## astroNikon

Actually the 560EX .. not the other 560s .. When mounted on-camera, it is a manual only flash.  However, as a wireless flash it is capable of TTL with either a Canon or Nikon commander.

The 560EX is sold as SU-800 compatible BUT NOT the other 560s
BUT .... I don't use it with a SU800 anymore due to the very limited IR range it has.
It worked perfectly within 8 feet, beyond that the IR wasn't sensitive enough.

I've moved on since then.  I use RF triggers and use the 560ex in strictly manual mode strictly as my BG light.  My other flashes are Nikon and I have no problems with IR range.

I'm just offering up my experience with the OP who mentioned the SU800 with the Yongnuo's 560 line, and since the 560ex is part of the 560 line..,

below and above quote taken from ==>Better Family Photos: Yongnuo YN-560EX (EX600) Review


> YONGNUO'S FLASH LINEUP
> Here's a brief comparison with the other current flashes in Yongnuo's lineup:
> 
> 
> YN-560 - Manual only flash.  Simple interface.   Compatible with external power pack.
> YN-560II - Manual only flash.  LCD interface.   Compatible with external power pack.
> *YN-560EX (formerly EX600)* - When mounted on-camera, it is a manual only flash.  However, as a wireless flash it is capable of TTL with either a Canon or Nikon commander.
> YN-565EX - When mounted on-camera, it is a TTL flash (Nikon or Canon but not both).  Like the 560EX, it is capable of TTL as a wireless flash with either a Canon or Nikon commander.  Compatible with external power pack.



There are multiple way of triggering a flash off camera.
1 - use tethering/cables
2 - use your onboard flash
3 - use IR as such with the SU-800 which is also a commander
4 - Radio triggers
and of course Yongnuo has their 560 controller unit for specific 560 units


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## Braineack

If you're going to ever use the flash on camera, then you'll probably want to go with the one that has TTL capabilities.


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## vipgraphx

So I got the 560 III today along with the 560 trigger. It was a little bit of a hassle trying to pair them but I finally did it. Once I started messing around it got myself very confused.

so 1/128 is less light power and 1/1 is more light power? I also see +3 and +7 but I do not see that you can go -3 or -7 which seems like that would be a good option. I kept washing out the pictures and finally started to get something usable to full around with. Can someone please explain the difference between 1/1 and 1/28

Also when I shot in M mode on my camera I kept getting images that looked like half was lit and half as dark. So the top part was lit with flash and the bottom part was dead black with a pretty good line of separation. I have no Idea why, I kept firing off and sometimes it would fully be lit while others not…..When I shoot in A mode on the camera this does not happen with the same output from the flash. Can these flash do - comp?

Here is an example of what happened while shooting in M mode on camera




what? by VIPGraphX, on Flickr

any ideas why


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## D-B-J

vipgraphx said:


> So I got the 560 III today along with the 560 trigger. It was a little bit of a hassle trying to pair them but I finally did it. Once I started messing around it got myself very confused.
> 
> so 1/128 is less light power and 1/1 is more light power? I also see +3 and +7 but I do not see that you can go -3 or -7 which seems like that would be a good option. I kept washing out the pictures and finally started to get something usable to full around with. Can someone please explain the difference between 1/1 and 1/28
> 
> Also when I shot in M mode on my camera I kept getting images that looked like half was lit and half as dark. So the top part was lit with flash and the bottom part was dead black with a pretty good line of separation. I have no Idea why, I kept firing off and sometimes it would fully be lit while others not…..When I shoot in A mode on the camera this does not happen with the same output from the flash. Can these flash do - comp?
> 
> Here is an example of what happened while shooting in M mode on camera
> 
> 
> 
> 
> what? by VIPGraphX, on Flickr
> 
> any ideas why



My instant guess is that you were shooting HIGHER than your camera's sync speed. Each body has a set maximum shutter speed for syncing with flashes (often 1/250th). Shoot at a SS faster than that and the shutter will be in the picture (as above) and appear like a black rectangle in the frame. Also, 1/1 is FULL power, and 1/128th is 128th the amount of power. That is to say that you it's much much less light. My guess is that you were just blasting too much light at the subject and that's why your pictures were all washed out. 

Cheers!
Jake


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## WayneF

I'm not sure about the dim image in your black band..  I suppose that must be an exposure from the dim but visible  ambient light.

But the black band is likely due to your using a shutter speed faster than your cameras maximum sync speed. This is frequently in the 1/200 second area.  This is the fastest shutter speed your camera can use with flash.   Some few cameras can be slightly faster than 1/200 second, and some are slightly less fast.  * Radio triggers can also limit the maximum sync speed*.  You could try 1/125 second at first, and try working it up from there.   Four Flash Photography Basics we must know - Maximum Shutter Sync Speed

The flash has a maximum power level, called 1/1  (full power).  Its power can be turned down, like to 1/2 power, 1/4 power, etc, down to 1/128 power.  How much power you need depends on the situation, specifically ISO, aperture, and of course flash subject distance. You need the amount that will give you a correct exposure.


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## Derrel

Black lower 7/8 of the image: shutter speed was too fast for standard "single-burst" flash. I can see the faint outline of the "horror clown doll" which is the ambient light exposure; the top part of the picture is lighted by the flash, so it has full exposure.


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## vipgraphx

Started reading that article about shutter speeds and yeah looks like you guys hit it on a nail. 

WOW lots of info to absorb. Just did about 100  shots testing out different shutter speeds and what not. Starting to understand a bit more and what to change in manual mode.

one thing though I noticed is that when I try to use the exposure comp button in manual nothing is happening, I am not seeing any changes. THoughts?


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## WayneF

In manual mode, you set the shutter and aperture to the values you want to use.  Exposure Compensation cannot change those values if you are in Manual mode.  So compensation only affects the automatic exposure modes.

Exposure compensation does change the value the meter reads, which you can see, but the meter does not control the settings for Manual mode, so no affect until you change something.

One exception is Auto ISO.  If Auto ISO, the meter does change ISO, meaning in manual mode, Auto ISO does try to make the exposure correct.


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## greybeard

Nikon is Better but there is nothing wrong with Yongnuo


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## vipgraphx

So far I am liking the yongnuo . I have the both and may keep both since on some occasions I will want to use ittl for like family parties when you need fast flash that can talk to the camera…

lots of helpful info in this thread and I appreciate all the help


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