# sharp pictures



## kelly5577 (Jan 8, 2018)

So, I have notice that when I am editing picture in lightroom, they always seem to be fuzzy when i do the 1:1 section to enlarge an area.

I have a rebel - and the focus dot is a little red box.  so If I put that box on my daughter's eye and take the picture,,,I would think that at least that eye would be so sharp.  But when I am enlarging it it is very fuzzy.  What am I doing wrong?  That IS the focus dot correct?lol  I usually shoot at a 4.0 so it is not wide open and I am missing the focus,,,,it is usually outside so my iso is only at 100 usually. 

What am I doing wrong?   How can I get a great picture?  I have a 50mm, 24mm, 70-20mm so my lenses are decent. 

ANy advice?


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## Ysarex (Jan 8, 2018)

Show us the photo along with exif details for the photo.

Joe


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## jcdeboever (Jan 8, 2018)

More than likely you are not stopping the lens down enough. Hard to say without example with exif data


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## KmH (Jan 9, 2018)

Which rebel do you have? Which auto focus mode do you use?
Canon has made/makes many different models of EOS Rebel DSLRs.
Is the focus point you use a cross-type focus point? Is there enough contrast in your daughters eye socket that the AF system can do it's job?

The aggressiveness of the AA filter in front of the image sensors may be the issue, or it can be as simple as you having a low quality 'protection' filter on your lens that is reducing focus sharpness.


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## ronlane (Jan 9, 2018)

Agreed that an example and exif data would help. One more thought in addition to the above would be that using f/4.0 and and ISO 100, what is the shutter speed? could there be some camera shake?


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## kelly5577 (Jan 9, 2018)

Thanks for the replies!
Here is an example

I just ran outside to take this to show what I mean...
canon rebel t6i
this is a 70-200 lens - my most expensive!

ISO 400
70MM
f4.0
1/80sec


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## kelly5577 (Jan 9, 2018)

jcdeboever said:


> More than likely you are not stopping the lens down enough. Hard to say without example with exif data


What does that mean?


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## kelly5577 (Jan 9, 2018)

KmH said:


> Which rebel do you have? Which auto focus mode do you use?
> Canon has made/makes many different models of EOS Rebel DSLRs.
> Is the focus point you use a cross-type focus point? Is there enough contrast in your daughters eye socket that the AF system can do it's job?
> 
> The aggressiveness of the AA filter in front of the image sensors may be the issue, or it can be as simple as you having a low quality 'protection' filter on your lens that is reducing focus sharpness.




I dont have a filter in front of my lens  --- should I???  
I am not sure what auto focus I use --- It had red squares and I toggle the point to the eye and then there is one square that focuses on the eye - if that makes ANY sense


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## dxqcanada (Jan 9, 2018)

Hmm, looks like camera shake ... notice the reflection of light is a line. Increase your shutter speed.


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## kelly5577 (Jan 9, 2018)

This one was:

canon t6i
iso 800
50mm
f 1.8
 1/320

I was trying to see if I  could use the 1.8 and be in focus.  which is obviously again a fail.


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## kelly5577 (Jan 9, 2018)

dxqcanada said:


> Hmm, looks like camera shake ... notice the reflection of light is a line. Increase your shutter speed.
> 
> View attachment 151984


So I should up the iso in order to increase shutter?  This lens is HEAVY!!!!  SO I am not surprised


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## dxqcanada (Jan 9, 2018)

Hmm, this one was probably due to the wide aperture ... smaller depth of field.


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## kelly5577 (Jan 9, 2018)

dxqcanada said:


> Hmm, this one was probably due to the wide aperture ... smaller depth of field.
> 
> View attachment 151986


do for this one - just make it like 3.5?  I need to read up on DOF


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## dxqcanada (Jan 9, 2018)

I would say so ... and many lenses do not perform well at widest aperture.


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## kelly5577 (Jan 9, 2018)

Last one

1.8
50mm
800 iso
1/500 sec


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## dxqcanada (Jan 9, 2018)

I think I would blame the wide open aperture on that one also.


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## weepete (Jan 9, 2018)

kelly5577 said:


> jcdeboever said:
> 
> 
> > More than likely you are not stopping the lens down enough. Hard to say without example with exif data
> ...



Stopping the lens down means using a smaller aperture (bigger f number). That 70-200mm f4 should be really sharp though, and it should be sharp wide open too, so I agree with dxqcanada, try using a shutter speed of at least 1/200 at 70mm.


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## dxqcanada (Jan 9, 2018)

kelly5577 said:


> jcdeboever said:
> 
> 
> > More than likely you are not stopping the lens down enough. Hard to say without example with exif data
> ...



Stopping down the lens tends to mean using a smaller (higher number) aperture.


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## kelly5577 (Jan 9, 2018)

weepete said:


> kelly5577 said:
> 
> 
> > jcdeboever said:
> ...


Thanks... so increasing iso is better? I get so nervous because the noise make it look oof to me.... but i guess I'll be better off sbd may be adjusting luminance in lr


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## kelly5577 (Jan 9, 2018)

Ok so in review lol

I should up iso high enough to have a 1/200 ss? 

And make sure I'm at 4.0 or higher. 

Any rule on when to use what aperature?


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## dxqcanada (Jan 9, 2018)

From info on the web ... tt looks like the EF50mm f/1.8 STM gets better at f/2.8


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## ceemac (Jan 9, 2018)

What focus mode are you using? I've got a t5i and I have 3 modes. "one shot" which locks in the focus when you press the shutter half way, "AI Focus" which locks in the focus but will adjust it if your daughter moves, and "AI Servo" which continuously focuses for moving subjects. Try AI Focus and see if that helps.


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## ronlane (Jan 9, 2018)

Is the 70-200mm the f/4 version? If so, you are shooting it wide open as well. The version I had of that 70-200mm f/4.0 was soft at f/4 too.

I'm guessing the 50mm f/1.8 is not the STM (new) version either. I never could get the older versions of the 50mm f/1.8 to produce tack sharp photos at 1.8 either.


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## dxqcanada (Jan 9, 2018)

Back in the olden days there was a RoT to have shutter speed at least the focal length ... so with a 50mm lens on APS-C, that's about 75mm ... so at least 1/80s, so aim higher.
Aperture ... the IQ of a lens will have an influence on that, in most cases the widest tends to be the poorest ... many lenses are best about two stops down ... f1.8-2.5-3.5
Zoom lenses ... IQ can also vary throughout the focal range.
There are many lens reviews online that will detail IQ at various apertures and focal lengths.


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## kelly5577 (Jan 9, 2018)

ceemac said:


> What focus mode are you using? I've got a t5i and I have 3 modes. "one shot" which locks in the focus when you press the shutter half way, "AI Focus" which locks in the focus but will adjust it if your daughter moves, and "AI Servo" which continuously focuses for moving subjects. Try AI Focus and see if that helps.



I know this is terrible.. but i have no idea what I'm using.  I guess i Need to Google this! Thank you.  So ai focus?  Ill Google and see how to set this


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## kelly5577 (Jan 9, 2018)

ronlane said:


> Is the 70-200mm the f/4 version? If so, you are shooting it wide open as well. The version I had of that 70-200mm f/4.0 was soft at f/4 too.
> 
> I'm guessing the 50mm f/1.8 is not the STM (new) version either. I never could get the older versions of the 50mm f/1.8 to produce tack sharp photos at 1.8 either.


Yes it is.  Thank you.  Ill try making iso higher to make aperature a larger number


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## ceemac (Jan 9, 2018)

kelly5577 said:


> I know this is terrible.. but i have no idea what I'm using. I guess i Need to Google this! Thank you. So ai focus? Ill Google and see how to set this


On my camera I have the AF button on the lowr right on the back. I bought David Busch Compact field guide for the T5i/700D. He may have one for the t6i or the t5i may be close enough for you. Great book for explaining everything about your camera. Better than the camera manual with big writing you can read.


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## dxqcanada (Jan 9, 2018)

http://gdlp01.c-wss.com/gds/4/0300018254/02/eos-rebelt6i-750d-im2-en.pdf
Aways a good place to start ... if you don't have it already.


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## Derrel (Jan 9, 2018)

kelly5577 said:


> Last one
> 
> 1.8
> 50mm
> ...



This photo was shot from close range. DISTANCE from the camera to the subject plays a HUGE role on depth of field. When you are close to the subject, there is not much depth of field. In this shot of the boy, you can see the focus zone "sliding out", as even the ears start to "slide out" of the focused zone. Again...distance is the number one factor in depth of field. Second is aperture, third is focal length. (This is speaking in real, practical terms). Many people think aperture is the most-critical variable, but it's mostly distance, at least under 20 feet.

On this shot of the squatting boy in shorts with the black and red shirt: the camera is angled steeply downward, which caused the already shallow depth of field band to literally be "tilted", in relation to the way his body and head are positioned, relative to the camera! This is like photographing a wine bottle on a table...the DOF band is not at the same "angle" as the subject is!

If you want apparently more in-focus, it's better to have the back of the camera be parallel with the subject, and not angled downwardly at a 50 degree angle.

Guidelines? At this close-range camera-to-subject distance with a 50mm lens? The lens needs to be stopped wayyyyyy down, because the kid is at one angle, and the camera is angled steeply downward...you'd want to be stopped down to f/8 or f/11 at minimum, and f/16 would give more in-focus. f/22 would be a good f/stop, but the speed would have been very slow, but it could be done.

As far as the exposure used, f/1.8 at 1/500 second...the exposure selected used a very high shutter speed for a kid that's not moving much...it would have been better to have slowed the shutter speed wayyyyyy down, to 1/60 second, in order to made the final exposure at four EV values "slower" of an aperture setting...which would be 12 one-third-stop clicks "down" from 1/500...


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## jcdeboever (Jan 10, 2018)

If you want the f/1.8 for Max creamy background, your going to need to back up a bit from your subject, crop in post. Shoot in Aperture priority mode and adjust iso to get at the shutter double the focal length, 100 speed at minimum. That is what I would do if no flash is being used. Look at your lens and see if it has depth of field markings. When shooting wide open, the depth of field is pretty thin. Understanding where that threshold is will give you better results. I assume you just need to back up a bit. Your right at that threshold.


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## kelly5577 (Jan 10, 2018)

Thank you all for being so helpful!  I ma taking your advice and I went outside and shot this.....

still not good 

70mm
iso 800
5.0
1/160

 I made the shutter faster - any advice?  What am I doing wrong


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## kelly5577 (Jan 10, 2018)

Sorry here is the pic


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## CherylL (Jan 10, 2018)

I started with the T4i and understand the frustration of learning.   I recommend a very good book by Bryan Peterson Understanding Exposure.  Read your camera's manual over and over and familiarize yourself with the buttons & settings.  My photos are mostly the pups and the grandkids.  My general rule of thumb is not to go lower than 125 shutter speed for camera shake.  Maybe you are more steady   The ISO needs to be kept low on your camera.  Generally I tried to use 200 or 400 outside since you have a lot of light.  Inside no more than 800 with the T4i.  Aperture usually a few stops more than the widest.   It depends on how much you want in focus and the trade off with ISO.   One focus point on the eye will help with sharpness.   If you shoot raw then you can edit by adding selective sharpness.  I started out learning the camera basics before I got into editing.   One thing that helped me learn was to guess the settings.  I would guess what the scene needed in setting the aperture, shutter & ISO.  I would then take a photo on Auto and see what the camera selected.  Which that may not be the best exposure, but I could see that if it was over or under exposed.  Checking the histogram helped too.  It was not unusual for me to take 50 or 100 photos and then format the card.  I am not a pro and my suggestions are based purely on how I learned.  Happy shooting!


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## jeffp (Jan 10, 2018)

kelly5577 said:


> Thank you all for being so helpful!  I ma taking your advice and I went outside and shot this.....
> 
> still not good
> 
> ...


Looking at your picture, I think it is pretty good in my opinion. I am not an expert but would like to offer what I had done before to address the similar problem. 

Find a statue, put your camera on a tripod, try different aperture, ISO and shutter speed combinations and take multiple pictures. Compare them side by side to see which one is the sharpest. Be sure to try some picture using manual focus instead AF. When you get all pictures and you might found something. 

Sent from my [device_name] using ThePhotoForum.com mobile app


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## kelly5577 (Jan 11, 2018)

jeffp said:


> kelly5577 said:
> 
> 
> > Thank you all for being so helpful!  I ma taking your advice and I went outside and shot this.....
> ...




Thanks everyone...really appreciate your time and comments..will continue to try


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## photoflyer (Jan 11, 2018)

I had a similar frustration with my T5 after I purchased the 85mm F 1.8.  The only way I could get it to focus properly was in live mode. I would switch to live mode and zoom in and then I could get tight Focus. I then purchased a 6D Mark II and even with that camera I had to go through Micro Focus adjustment to get it to focus properly at F 1.8. Does the T6i have the ability to do Micro Focus adjustment?


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## ceemac (Jan 11, 2018)

photoflyer said:


> Does the T6i have the ability to do Micro Focus adjustment?


I don't believe the Rebels do.


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## KmH (Jan 12, 2018)

Maybe some of the newer Canon EOS Rebel DSLRs have a focus fine tuning function, but I don't think so either.
Canon currently offers *8* _different_ Rebel models and have been making EOS Rebels for a lot of years with new models appearing every 48 months or so.
Also not all EOS Rebel models are equal. A Rebel SL1 and a Rebel T7i are quite different. The T7i is more capable then the SL 1. Note the SL 2 is newer than the SL 1.
https://downloads.canon.com/nw/came...-rebel-series-_-comparison-chart-_-view-chart


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## Cortian (Jan 12, 2018)

kelly5577 said:


> Sorry here is the pic


Kelly, can we see the numbers on that photo, please?  (Incl. focal length and distance.)  Because I just looked at the full-size version of it and, to my newbie eyes, I _think_ I see several things:

Looking at the shadows under the boy's chin it looks like high ISO?
_Nothing_ appears to be in focus.
Looks like an overcast day, but it also appears... over-exposed?
I'm sure somebody will be along shortly to bring me up short if I've got it wrong 

What focusing and metering modes are you using?

I wonder: Have you ever tried just putting the camera into full auto and taken some snaps, just to see what happens?


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## vintagesnaps (Jan 12, 2018)

I think that still might be too large an aperture when you're trying to keep up with an active kid; it may not be allowing still for enough depth of field to make sure you're getting all of him.

Obviously he's barely in the frame, so we end up seeing a lot of out of focus fence more than we see him in the picture. I think you might do better with a short telephoto so you don't have to get in so close, then you might be able to get him in the frame better. (I've done sports, and try to anticipate movement to be able to get someone in the frame.)

The exposure might be off; settings aren't quite what I'd expect even on a cloudy day. The ISO may not have needed to be quite that high and the aperture might have been better still a little smaller. With sports/action I usually go f8 or smaller to get a large area in focus.


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## kelly5577 (Jan 12, 2018)

Cortian said:


> kelly5577 said:
> 
> 
> > Sorry here is the pic
> ...



here are the settings used
70mm
iso 800
5.0
1/160

I had been using a apperature of about 3ish and wasnt getting great results -- so some of you recommended that I use one of 5ish - which I did - they also recommended a higher shutter speed which I got by hiking up my iso to 800...

I am a total beginner and I am looking for advice and appreciate what everyone is saying so I am trying all of the advixe - but this one didnt work out so great,,,i will keep trying.  
you said NOTHING appears to be in focus - arggg lol

I use focal point - it is a black square and when I shoot IT IS ON HIS EYE.  that is why i am SOOO confused as to why it is not getting sharp or pics in focus.


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## kelly5577 (Jan 12, 2018)

vintagesnaps said:


> I think that still might be too large an aperture when you're trying to keep up with an active kid; it may not be allowing still for enough depth of field to make sure you're getting all of him.
> 
> Obviously he's barely in the frame, so we end up seeing a lot of out of focus fence more than we see him in the picture. I think you might do better with a short telephoto so you don't have to get in so close, then you might be able to get him in the frame better. (I've done sports, and try to anticipate movement to be able to get someone in the frame.)
> 
> The exposure might be off; settings aren't quite what I'd expect even on a cloudy day. The ISO may not have needed to be quite that high and the aperture might have been better still a little smaller. With sports/action I usually go f8 or smaller to get a large area in focus.




Thanks for taking the time to try to help me.

He actually was standing still lol and the focus square in my camera was on his eye when I shot it...so this is why i am so confused - i used the app of 5 from some of you recommending it.  What do you suggest?  bigger like 7 or smaller like 3

I had the iso up because people said I needed to do a faster shutter speed....

trial and error!   I am trying  but not seeing much improvement - I will keep at it


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## kelly5577 (Jan 12, 2018)

KmH said:


> Maybe some of the newer Canon EOS Rebel DSLRs have a focus fine tuning function, but I don't think so either.
> Canon currently offers *8* _different_ Rebel models and have been making EOS Rebels for a lot of years with new models appearing every 48 months or so.
> Also not all EOS Rebel models are equal. A Rebel SL1 and a Rebel T7i are quite different. The T7i is more capable then the SL 1. Note the SL 2 is newer than the SL 1.
> https://downloads.canon.com/nw/came...-rebel-series-_-comparison-chart-_-view-chart




thanks I have a t6i


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## photoflyer (Jan 12, 2018)

Did you buy the equipment at a camera store? Even if you didn't I would take it to your local camera store and show them what you are seeing. A good camera store will have knowledgeable people who can help you out. And, even if you pay a little bit more, I have found their advice and the ability to test the equipment out first is worth it.


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## kelly5577 (Jan 12, 2018)

photoflyer said:


> Did you buy the equipment at a camera store? Even if you didn't I would take it to your local camera store and show them what you are seeing. A good camera store will have knowledgeable people who can help you out. And, even if you pay a little bit more, I have found their advice and the ability to test the equipment out first is worth it.




I bought the camera from best buy a last year.  I dont think it is a camera issue as much as I think I dont know what I am doing  haha  I have tried different lenes to see if it was a lens and i still couldnt get focus so I came to the conclusion it is me ha 

if I dio take it in because I am not against the idea -  can they do a test for a focusing issue?  how does that work?


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## kelly5577 (Jan 12, 2018)

photoflyer said:


> Did you buy the equipment at a camera store? Even if you didn't I would take it to your local camera store and show them what you are seeing. A good camera store will have knowledgeable people who can help you out. And, even if you pay a little bit more, I have found their advice and the ability to test the equipment out first is worth it.




I bought the camera from best buy a last year.  I dont think it is a camera issue as much as I think I dont know what I am doing  haha  I have tried different lenes to see if it was a lens and i still couldnt get focus so I came to the conclusion it is me ha 

if I dio take it in because I am not against the idea -  can they do a test for a focusing issue?  how does that work?


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## photoflyer (Jan 12, 2018)

I had a similar issue with my T5 and my 85mm F 1.8. I think I mentioned this earlier. I took it to my local camera shop. We tried different lenses on my body and my lens on different bodies. In the end, it really came down to, the 85mm was not a good match for the T5.  It would focus perfectly in live view mode. But not in normal mode.  I had not purchased the camera there.

I subsequently purchased a 6D Mark II body from that shop and the same lens required Micro Focus adjustment to work perfectly sharp at f 1.8. That was something I actually learned about through this forum.

Forums are great and I have learned a lot from the very knowledgeable people on this one. But sometimes it's easiest to just hold the hardware in your hands, see the result and diagnose the problem.


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## kelly5577 (Jan 12, 2018)

photoflyer said:


> I had a similar issue with my T5 and my 85mm F 1.8. I think I mentioned this earlier. I took it to my local camera shop. We tried different lenses on my body and my lens on different bodies. In the end, it really came down to, the 85mm was not a good match for the T5.  It would focus perfectly in live view mode. But not in normal mode.  I had not purchased the camera there.
> 
> I subsequently purchased a 6D Mark II body from that shop and the same lens required Micro Focus adjustment to work perfectly sharp at f 1.8. That was something I actually learned about through this forum.
> 
> Forums are great and I have learned a lot from the very knowledgeable people on this one. But sometimes it's easiest to just hold the hardware in your hands, see the result and diagnose the problem.




Thanks, if I take it in - take all my lenes??


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## photoflyer (Jan 12, 2018)

kelly5577 said:


> Thanks, if I take it in - take all my lenes??



I would take my entire bag.  Who knows what you will learn.


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## vintagesnaps (Jan 12, 2018)

You're mixing up large and small aperture settings. An aperture of f4 is open larger than an aperture of say, f11. Look at the differences in the chart in this article.
22 Tips for Photographing a Lunar Eclipse

I thought maybe he'd been on the move because he's so far over to one side of the frame. Take time to frame the shot, to get the subject more in the picture. Trying to get photos of kids especially fairly close with a short lens might take some time to learn how to do.

Before taking the camera/lenses in, maybe do some more test shots. Set up some object(s) in plenty of light and take a few pictures at different settings and see if you can get some in focus and looking sharp.


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## KmH (Jan 12, 2018)

Yep _f_/4 is a fraction (a ratio) and 1/4 of a pie is a lot bigger piece of pie than a 1/11th piece of a pie.
In other words f/4 is a bigger fraction (and a larger lens opening if the lens focal length stays the same) than f/11 is.
The _f_ is the focal length of the lens. If you have a zoom lens, _f _changes as you zoom in/out.

So for a 70-200 mm zoom lens here's the math:
When the lens is zoomed in to 70 mm and set to f/4 the width of the lens opening is *70 mm/4 = 17.8 mm wide*.

When the lens is zoomed out to 100 mm and set to f/4 the width of the lens opening is* 100 mm/4 = 25 mm wide*.

When the lens is zoomed out to 200 mm and set to f/4 the width of the lens opening is *200 mm/4 = 50 mm wide*.


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## kelly5577 (Jan 13, 2018)

vintagesnaps said:


> You're mixing up large and small aperture settings. An aperture of f4 is open larger than an aperture of say, f11. Look at the differences in the chart in this article.
> 22 Tips for Photographing a Lunar Eclipse
> 
> I thought maybe he'd been on the move because he's so far over to one side of the frame. Take time to frame the shot, to get the subject more in the picture. Trying to get photos of kids especially fairly close with a short lens might take some time to learn how to do.
> ...


Thank you.  I plan on trying more today.
I will post what i get.  

I guess the reason i am so confused is that the black square which is my focus point IA Is on his eye at the time of my shooting.  So I'm wondering why I'm missing it so much when it is clearly set directly on his eye.  Ugh

I appreciate your help


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## kelly5577 (Jan 13, 2018)

KmH said:


> Yep _f_/4 is a fraction (a ratio) and 1/4 of a pie is a lot bigger piece of pie than a 1/11th piece of a pie.
> In other words f/4 is a bigger fraction (and a larger lens opening if the lens focal length stays the same) than f/11 is.
> The _f_ is the focal length of the lens. If you have a zoom lens, _f _changes as you zoom in/out.
> 
> ...


Oh my goodness.... fractions lol i tiffany get it now.  Thank you for that explanation. 


So let me see if I'm understanding completely now...and i may be wayyy off.

If I'm at 4 stop...that is  a huge chunk.  So even if my black square focal point os on his eye... maybe it's missing because the focal point is muggy larger trhan just his eye area??

So if i have f7 its much snaller range of a fcoal point?? Somif i focus it in his eye.... it may be a better chance of focusing??

Am.i anywhere closer to understanding??


I focus so much on that black square focal point.  I will toggle it up and down until i get that perfect spot at his eye.  Then taje the picture.  .... is this what I'm even supposed to be doing??? I use the ONE square. I know there are other options to use a cluster of squares...is this more of what i should be doing???

I was told use the ONE and place in an eye


Sorry for the long post... and THANK YOU


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## KmH (Jan 13, 2018)

No.
The size of the focus point doesn't change.
The focus point isn't that square. In your T6I it's 2 narrow slits in that square. One is horizontal, one is vertical - a cross-type focus point.
The center focus point is the most accurate focus point you have. it's more sensitive and it also ha s adiagonal slit.
Yes, put the one focus point where you want the sharpest focus.

From the T6i Specifications:
*AF Points*
• 19 points
• All AF points are cross-type at f/5.6.
• Center AF point is diagonal cross-type at f/2.8.

Note: AF is always done with the lens as wide open as it can go.

The depth of field (DoF) changes and the more wide open the lens is the shallower the DoF is.
DoF is affected by more than just the lens aperture. It's affected as much by the point of focus (PoF) distance and the lens focal length.
Use an online DoF. Plug in different focal length, f/stop, subject distances (PoF) to see how DoF changes as those parameters change.
Online Depth of Field Calculator

To consistently make high quality photographs you have to be pretty well informed regarding both the technical and the artistic aspects of doing photography.
Here is a good online place to start learning about the techical:
Digital Photography Tutorials


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## kelly5577 (Jan 13, 2018)

KmH said:


> No.
> The size of the focus point doesn't change.
> Yes, put the one focus point where you want the sharpest focus.
> 
> ...




Thank you!!! I'll check them both out now! I appreciate it


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## KmH (Jan 13, 2018)

I added a bit more info to my post #54.


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## Cortian (Jan 13, 2018)

kelly5577 said:


> Thank you!!! I'll check them both out now! I appreciate it


Kelly, you're doing this The Hard Way.   Nearly a week ago, in your anyone willing to help and give cc thread, I suggested...



Cortian said:


> I'm surprised nobody's mentioned it yet.  Kelly, read _Understanding Exposure_, by Bryan Peterson.  It will answer your questions about DOF and the like.
> 
> There's also a new section on flashes.  I haven't gotten that far, yet.


You can find it at Understanding Exposure (Amazon).

You could save yourself a lot of time and frustration by reading that and, and this: Canon EOS Rebel T6i/EOS 750D User's Manual

As somebody noted in another thread: Read the User's Manual *three times*.  Read it through, each time with the camera at hand.  Play with the controls you study in the User's Manual, so they become something of second nature.

(I downloaded the PDF for my camera's manual into my iBook repository, so I could always have it to hand.)

Similarly, with Peterson's book: Actually try to replicate photos similar to what he uses to illustrate his points.

In doing these things you will actually _learn_ how your camera operates, how to operate it and what to do to get it to do what you wish.

The membership here is real helpful, and real patient.  That was one of the things that attracted _me_ to this forum.  But you're being fed information with an eye dropper and, because you don't understand the principles of photography, such as the Exposure Triangle, or how your camera operates, you're taking inaccurate stabs at what you _think_ people mean, so you continue to get poor results.

It would be alike somebody who'd never driven a car, never had driving lessons, but knew how to start it, getting on a car forum and asking "The engine's running, I think, but, when I press the gas pedal nothing happens.  What am I doing wrong?" 

E.g.: Your last photo.  You _claimed_ "He actually was standing still lol and the focus square in my camera was on his eye when I shot it..."  Well, if that was true: How did the subject end up way over on the right side of the frame, well away from the center focus point?  Something doesn't jibe, but I'd be taking stabs in the dark trying to guess what, and so, I expect, would you.


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## PhotoPro1 (Jan 13, 2018)

I think it's your shutter speed and aperture.  Try shutter of 320 and aperture of F8. Bump up your ISO as you need to take this shot outside.  Use only the center square to focus on the eyes. Let us know what happens, otherwise you will need to have Canon align your lens to your body.


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## zulu42 (Jan 13, 2018)

I'm sorry if I missed it, but have we seen any test shots yet? Good light, static subject, forget about background blur... get that camera focusing how you want on an easy shot.

Keep at it! You're getting used to working the camera controls, showing it who's boss. You're beginning to understand the effect of the setting you make. Try not to get frustrated, and take the time to gain a real understanding.

You are right on the verge of making a couple of HUGE steps forward in your photography, and I know you'll be thrilled with the results very soon!


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## kelly5577 (Jan 13, 2018)

KmH said:


> I added a bit more info to my post #54.


Thanks so much! I appreciate your time, patience, and helpful advice!!


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## kelly5577 (Jan 13, 2018)

zulu42 said:


> I'm sorry if I missed it, but have we seen any test shots yet? Good light, static subject, forget about background blur... get that camera focusing how you want on an easy shot.
> 
> Keep at it! You're getting used to working the camera controls, showing it who's boss. You're beginning to understand the effect of the setting you make. Try not to get frustrated, and take the time to gain a real understanding.
> 
> You are right on the verge of making a couple of HUGE steps forward in your photography, and I know you'll be thrilled with the results very soon!





I really appreciate your kind words!!


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## kelly5577 (Jan 13, 2018)

KmH said:


> No.
> The size of the focus point doesn't change.
> The focus point isn't that square. In your T6I it's 2 narrow slits in that square. One is horizontal, one is vertical - a cross-type focus point.
> The center focus point is the most accurate focus point you have. it's more sensitive and it also ha s adiagonal slit.
> ...





I think you just figured out my problem... I'm off to YouTube tutorials to see if i can find one to help. 

You mention the cross type focal point and center focal point.  My camera it must be the settings i have it in somehow... only shows one square.... no cross. Yhat square i can toggle all around up and down lwft and right.  That is what i am using on the eye.... I'm thinking niw that that is not correct....


Im off to explore...

Thank you for being so understanding, patient, and taking the time to help me....


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## ceemac (Jan 13, 2018)

On my t5i, I press the "+" on the top right corner on the back. That gets me into focal point selection mode. Then I turn the wheel by the shutter release to highlight where I want the focal point to be. I can select individual points or all of them.


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## kelly5577 (Jan 13, 2018)

ceemac said:


> On my t5i, I press the "+" on the top right corner on the back. That gets me into focal point selection mode. Then I turn the wheel by the shutter release to highlight where I want the focal point to be. I can select individual points or all of them.


Yes!!! Thank you!! Just read articles and watched videos...and somehow i was in a manual focus...just switched to auto snd now playing with all the clusters....already taking sharper pics! Thank you all


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## kelly5577 (Jan 13, 2018)

So here are some I took today - I see a clear difference


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## kelly5577 (Jan 13, 2018)

another
these were shot with these settings:
iso 100
f/3.5
50mm lens
1/100


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## kelly5577 (Jan 13, 2018)

another


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## kelly5577 (Jan 13, 2018)

This one I opened the app to 2.0 just to see
f/2
1/250
iso 100


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## kelly5577 (Jan 13, 2018)

ceemac said:


> On my t5i, I press the "+" on the top right corner on the back. That gets me into focal point selection mode. Then I turn the wheel by the shutter release to highlight where I want the focal point to be. I can select individual points or all of them.


When you press the shutter half down...and the focal points are hitting things you aren't looking to focus in on... is there a way to move the ones lighting up...

For example:
If i have the middle cluster and two light up but they are not on what i want...so then i oress shutter half down again and this time 3 different ones light up....  any way to get it to what i want?

I know about the single focal point but that is what i was doing w no luck


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## KmH (Jan 13, 2018)

kelly5577 said:


> My camera it must be the settings i have it in somehow... only shows one square.... no cross.


We can't see the actual focus points. The squares just indicate where they are relative to the scene we see in the viewfinder.
The squares are actually projected on to what is known as the the focusing screen that is under the penta-mirror at the top front of the mirror box.
Light from the lens hits an angled mirror in the mirror box that bounces the light up through the focusing screen and penta-mirrror to the viewfinder eyepiece.

The focus points are actually in the AF module _in the bottom of the camera body_ UNDER the mirror box.
That big mirror in the mirror box is partly transparent and has a smaller mirror behind it angled down to direct light from the lens down to the AF module.

The inside of your T6i pretty much looks like this:
File:E-30-Cutmodel.jpg - Wikipedia

Understanding Camera Autofocus


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## ceemac (Jan 13, 2018)

kelly5577 said:


> When you press the shutter half down...and the focal points are hitting things you aren't looking to focus in on... is there a way to move the ones lighting up...


It sounds like you're still in auto select mode. Hopefully this is the same for your t6i: Pressing the + button on the top right back of camera opens the AF point selection screen. Turning the main dial by the shutter release will scroll through automatic ( camera selects ) or 1 of nine manual selections. At least on the t5i. Then pressing the shutter half way will confirm either the points it's auto selecting, or confirming the point you've manually selected.


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## ceemac (Jan 13, 2018)

OK. I checked the t6i manual. It's a little different from the t5i, but the idea is the same. http://gdlp01.c-wss.com/gds/9/0300018249/04/eos-rebelt6i-750d-bim4-en.pdf   .Page 93


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## kelly5577 (Jan 13, 2018)

ceemac said:


> OK. I checked the t6i manual. It's a little different from the t5i, but the idea is the same. http://gdlp01.c-wss.com/gds/9/0300018249/04/eos-rebelt6i-750d-bim4-en.pdf   .Page 93




Thanks so much!!! Checking out now...

Did you see the new pics i added... did you see an improvement?


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## kelly5577 (Jan 13, 2018)

KmH said:


> kelly5577 said:
> 
> 
> > My camera it must be the settings i have it in somehow... only shows one square.... no cross.
> ...




Thanks so much!!! I'll go read them now..

Did you notice any improvemnt in my newest photos I  uploaded?


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## kelly5577 (Jan 13, 2018)

ceemac said:


> OK. I checked the t6i manual. It's a little different from the t5i, but the idea is the same. http://gdlp01.c-wss.com/gds/9/0300018249/04/eos-rebelt6i-750d-bim4-en.pdf   .Page 93


 Thank you!


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