# First Photoshoot



## blackphoenix (Feb 9, 2019)

So I have my first official photo shoot event this Sunday. I was wondering if any of you had any advice on preparing for that?


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## D7K (Feb 9, 2019)

Decide what you want to get from the shoot, don't be controlled by the model/s, use the light and if you can research the space before you do it, unless it's a studio session..


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## blackphoenix (Feb 9, 2019)

D7K said:


> Decide what you want to get from the shoot, don't be controlled by the model/s, use the light and if you can research the space before you do it, unless it's a studio session..


It's going to be outside on a fairly overcast day, I just want to be sure this goes right. It's going to be alot of people. I dont know if i want to bring my tripod either or is freehand best for it


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## SquarePeg (Feb 9, 2019)

What/who are you shooting?  Indoors?  Outside?  Equipment?  Experience level?  

You need to provide _some_ info if you want to get any usable advice.


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## D7K (Feb 9, 2019)

Flash/Reflector, choose your background carefully, light will be bad so shoot to the right (histogram) - shoot RAW, nail what you can and if the weather is bad, or too bad be artistic in post.

Otherwise, Shoot to the right of the histogram, and don't expect great results for groups....


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## blackphoenix (Feb 9, 2019)

SquarePeg said:


> What/who are you shooting?  Indoors?  Outside?  Equipment?  Experience level?
> 
> You need to provide _some_ info if you want to get any usable advice.


Its outside and im shooting a large group of people. Its a black history month photoshoot event that I'm hosting and I have a camera and a tripod. and I'm still an aspiring professional photographer as I have not had any clients yet.


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## D7K (Feb 9, 2019)

Meter for the highlights...

A group depending how large and how far away you are and the lens will be a f5.6 shot.  use lighting from reflections off of buildings, if they don't have a set idea use your time and shoot shoot shoot
experiment, edit and try to capture the idea they want, the emotion, the rest is on you...

Don't be afraid to orchestrate..


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## blackphoenix (Feb 9, 2019)

D7K said:


> Flash/Reflector, choose your background carefully, light will be bad so shoot to the right (histogram) - shoot RAW, nail what you can and if the weather is bad, or too bad be artistic in post.
> 
> Otherwise, Shoot to the right of the histogram, and don't expect great results for groups....


Okay thank you! this is great advice. Didn't want to fail this


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## D7K (Feb 9, 2019)

Checking jpg on the cam isn't enough, Use your histogram... If you spike to the right then change it up.. Best of luck


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## blackphoenix (Feb 9, 2019)

D7K said:


> Checking jpg on the cam isn't enough, Use your histogram... If you spike to the right then change it up.. Best of luck


Thank you for the words of advice! Definitely will show the pics when its over to get a critique


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## D7K (Feb 9, 2019)

I have no flash, no reflector...FYI... I have used, But I prefer natural light, try your best to see it, and use it... You won't be sorry. Looking forward to seeing some shots


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## blackphoenix (Feb 9, 2019)

D7K said:


> I have no flash, no reflector...FYI... I have used, But I prefer natural light, try your best to see it, and use it... You won't be sorry. Looking forward to seeing some shots


Yea i dont use flash I feel sometimes it takes away from the picture. Natural is better I prefer it as well. Thank you I can't wait to shoot them.


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## Designer (Feb 9, 2019)

blackphoenix said:


> Yea i dont use flash I feel sometimes it takes away from the picture. Natural is better I prefer it as well.


What camera?  Most cameras have a built-in flash on top.  

"Natural" light is sky light mostly coming from above which makes shadows under eyebrows, noses, and chins.  If you're o.k. with shadows on everybody, then don't use your flash.


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## blackphoenix (Feb 9, 2019)

Designer said:


> blackphoenix said:
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> 
> > Yea i dont use flash I feel sometimes it takes away from the picture. Natural is better I prefer it as well.
> ...


Its a canon eos rebel T6. I see what you're saying about the shadows. I appreciate it. I definitely would not want that.


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## Designer (Feb 9, 2019)

blackphoenix said:


> Its a canon eos rebel T6. I see what you're saying about the shadows. I appreciate it. I definitely would not want that.


I would not want that either.

Look in your menu to see if you can adjust the flash to "fill".  Usually that is just enough light to make the shadows less prominent.  Use today to test this.


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## blackphoenix (Feb 9, 2019)

Designer said:


> blackphoenix said:
> 
> 
> > Its a canon eos rebel T6. I see what you're saying about the shadows. I appreciate it. I definitely would not want that.
> ...


will do. This has been very very helpful!


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## SquarePeg (Feb 9, 2019)

If you don’t want to use flash, when you’re shooting outside on an overcast day you have to pay attention to where the sun is even though it’s obscured.  If you take one person and slowly turn them while watching the light on  their face, you can find the best direction to face your group.  This will get rid of some of the raccoon eyes and shadows that many people are surprised by because they ignore the direction of the light when it’s overcast.  A reflector can work well in this situation to augment the natural light.


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## tirediron (Feb 9, 2019)

blackphoenix said:


> D7K said:
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> 
> > I have no flash, no reflector...FYI... I have used, But I prefer natural light, try your best to see it, and use it... You won't be sorry. Looking forward to seeing some shots
> ...


Arghh!!!!!!!!!  These kinds of statements drive me bat-s**t crazy.  ALL light is natural light.  A photon is a photon is a photon...  there is NO difference between the light from the sun and the light from a strobe.  None.  Zero.  Zip.  Zilch.  It's the same.  Why do I stress this?  Because people, especially those new to the craft often think that there's something "wrong" with supplemental light in an image when the real truth is, they simply don't yet have the knowledge or experience to use it to advantage.

Learning lighting (which includes ALL light sources) is far and away the most difficult part of photography, but it's absolutely essential to becoming a skilled photographer.  There's lots of work you can do with ambient light only, and there's NOTHING wrong with using only ambient light, but it's not always going to yield the best result.  Why?  Because our control of it is very limited.  Strobes on the other hand, we have 100% control over.  I use strobes in probably >90% of my portrait work both indoor and outdoor.  

What happens if you have a bright overcast day?  That's going to produce a strong backlight so you will have either a blown sky or under-exposed subjects.  A reflector is going to do pretty much nothing on an overcast day, but a strobe?  Now you're cooking with gas!  As an example, this image from last year:





I had NO choice as to the time, location, or orientation of the image, and it would have been criminal to lose that sunrise...  without any supplemental light, this would have either had no sunrise at all due to over-exposure, or no distinguishable faces, but... one speedlight saved the day.  

You seem genuinely committed to becoming a professional photographer and I truly applaud you for that; it's a hard row to hoe.  That said, you can do yourself no bigger favour than really learning how to use and apply all types of light to your work.  Trust me on this!


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## blackphoenix (Feb 9, 2019)

tirediron said:


> blackphoenix said:
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> > D7K said:
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I definitely agree with what you're saying. You've really provided me with alot of advice on alot of my threads. I appreciate it!. I really want this to go right!


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## Tom Szabo (Feb 12, 2019)

tirediron said:


> blackphoenix said:
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> > D7K said:
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I agree with "tirediron"'s comments. I remember the first time another photographer instructed us to shoot flash during the day. I thought WHAT? It's daylight. After I turned on my flash, I saw why.

tirediron - In your comment "which includes all light sources", I wish you would have expanded the comment. So if you don't mind....
blackphoenix, try an experiment - find a location, put your camera on a tripod (keeps camera aimed the same from shot to shot) photograph the scene using different white balance presets. Then examine your results. You should notice some significant color shifts.

Next, try using a "custom white balance" setting and compare the results. You may ask why not use auto white balance? Reason: slight variations in your composition may change your auto white balance results based on predominant colors in the scene. Those subtle color shifts may create more work for you in post. When the white balance setting is consistent, then your post processing may be kept to a minimum. Good luck and keep us posted.

tirediron, your critique on my reply is welcome.


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## Tom Szabo (Feb 12, 2019)

blackphoenix:
Go to Youtube and search for "outdoor photo shoot". There's a ton of how to videos to watch. They should also give you some hints on the logistics of such a project, posing etc. Many are targeted for beginners. 

Also, consider scouting your location with your camera. Shoot some test shots. As a portrait photographer I hope you have 2 decent flash units to put on light stands. I believe you can slave them to your T6.

Make a small investment for a digital calibration target: Photovision14
Very handy!


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## tirediron (Feb 12, 2019)

Tom Szabo said:


> ....tirediron - In your comment "which includes all light sources", I wish you would have expanded the comment. So if you don't mind........


Nothing to critique Tom; good points.  Not sure in what way you mean I should have expanded on the "all light sources" comment, but I'm happy to.


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## blackphoenix (Feb 12, 2019)

You all make some really good points! I freehanded the shoot and was on the fence about my tripod


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## vintagesnaps (Feb 12, 2019)

'Existing' light... Light isn't necessarily 'natural'; you're working with whatever light is where you're taking photos. 

For future reference.... go ahead of time/early and figure out where to have people stand, which way the light will be coming from at the time of day you'll be taking photos. Notice how the area looks where you plan to set up and think about how it will look as background. Be aware of your vantage point to figure out where to stand - are there any edges of furniture or windows or trees or posts etc. that you need to keep out of the frame? Think about where to put people in relation to those and where to put yourself in relation to the subject(s). (You don't want a tree or light post to look like it's growing out of someone's head.)

You don't necessarily need a tripod; they're usually used when the photographer needs to set up for a shot to keep the camera steady longer. So they're often used for landscapes, long exposures, or large group shots.

I've mostly done small group shots out on the ice during intermission of a hockey game, with people holding giant cardboard checks, etc. quickly before the zamboni headed our way! (Seriously, the clock was running...) I've done sports and events and I'm used to working with what is there and being efficient in getting the shot(s). But in any circumstances, take a breath... you can do more in a few seconds than you might think, so take a minute to check and see how the group shot will look before you release the shutter. 

You know how people sometimes hop into the shot last minute? and they may be standing at an odd angle, etc. Make sure they're all facing and straight to the camera and direct them to move as needed - before taking the picture. If they aren't completely in the frame and the edge of someone or their foot/arm isn't in the photo, there's no putting it back. Double check that feet are in the picture too.

It takes practice to get good at it, and I'd suggest getting out and about and taking pictures to get practice framing shots - not just people or portraits but at framing and seeing everything in that rectangle of a viewfinder/viewscreen before you release the shutter.


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## Tom Szabo (Feb 12, 2019)

tirediron said:


> Tom Szabo said:
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> 
> > ....tirediron - In your comment "which includes all light sources", I wish you would have expanded the comment. So if you don't mind........
> ...


Sorry, I was referring to various light colors as in white balance.


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## D7K (Feb 13, 2019)

tirediron said:


> blackphoenix said:
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Nail on the head, this is why I struggled to get away with using flash correctly, and since I sold up the Sony and went back to Nikon, funds have not been free to purchase a new one and continue to develop knowledge and experience, this is on my list of things to purchase and continue to learn... Didn't mean to drive you nuts!!


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## mrca (Feb 14, 2019)

Hey tirediron, was good to finally get back on my feet and be able to log on after a recent surgery with attendant "cross your eye balls pain" without pain killers and see one of your excellent posts.  I would call the light I use "available" light and that includes all light sources available to me, including ambient or natural, strobes, hot lights, speedlights, reflectors.   Sounds like op was shooting people with dark skin.  Try a gold or silver gold reflector or a  softbox with silver gold insert.  It really makes dark skin glow.   Did a shoot with a black photographer and had him aim a gold reflector at our black subjects.  Shoulda seen his expression as he played the gold light across her face.   Also, if you are going to be shooting dark skin, realize that for light skin shape and form can be revealed with shadow, but dark skin does much better to me with a large soft edged highlight revealing shape and form.  Think 5 or 6 foot octa or popping a light or 2 through a 6' scrim. I couldn't tell from the posts if you were shooting as a group, taking individual portraits or run and gun.     Once folks learn to master light to be able to fine tune it for their shot, most no longer find ambient good enough.


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