# Photos blurry, even when using flash



## ShawnW (Aug 19, 2016)

I recently came upon a problem at a recent senior photo shoot.  When I came back to my studio, I noticed some of my favorite shots were a bit blurry.  It was a partly cloudy day, and in the photo I attached, the sun was behind the cloud.  Here's what I was using, and the settings:

Nikon D610
Nikon SB900 flash
Off camera flash attached to light stand w/ umbrella using wireless/infared to trigger flash
24-85mm lens w/ auto focus set, and VR set to on

Info from photo:
ISO speed - 100
F-stop - 4.2
Exposure - 1/60 sec
Exposure compensation -    +.7
Program selector set to "P"
Metering mode - Pattern
Focul length - 46mm

This never happened before.  I'm not sure if I bumped a setting, or if there's something else I should be doing.  Very frustrating so any help/suggestions will be greatly appreciated.


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## astroNikon (Aug 19, 2016)

her feet (down to a foot lower) are in pretty good focus.

If you look at the image on the far left and scroll from the top to the bottom and watch when the rocks get in pretty good focus and before they go out of focus again, then scroll right to the lady.  You'll see that her feet are in good focus.

What Focus Mode are you using?
For Portraiture I'm also in a Single Focus Point mode, and point it directly to the closest eye.  Not Auto mode, or 9 pt, I strictly use Single Point for Portrait type shots.

Also 1/60 with VR ... I know that is supposed to work but I tend to not use VR and go for proper Shutter Speeds by using more liberal use of ISO.  You have a FX camera, you have a lot of ISO leeway.

Also your Aperture may have been a bit shallow.  but it's best to calculate that out based on your distance to the subject.

FYI, I'm one of those shooters that is in Manual all the time.  I set the Aperture that I want, the Shutter Speed that I want and then use the ISO / ExComp to adjust. Unless it's too much out of whack then I'll adjust Aperture first, then Shutter.   I prefer to set the DOF and Shutter to what I want rather than give the camera the option to choose (which for me mostly doesn't end up what I want).


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## ShawnW (Aug 19, 2016)

Unfortunately, her feet wasn't what I was aiming for to be in focus, I would have rather had her face in focus.  It's not bad, but I can tell it's a tad bit blurry.  I was using AF-C (continuous).  I never thought about the VR and shutter speed conflicting.  I get what you're saying about using manual rather than program.  I guess I'm a bit lazy or don't want to take the time on the fly to make changes, and just let the camera do the figuring.  I've had pretty good luck up until now.  I was just curious if maybe there's something to be said about me using the flash off camera.  Maybe the flash isn't firing as quickly as it should when I press the shutter button.  I had good, well charged batteries in the flash.


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## ShawnW (Aug 19, 2016)

Here's another example.  Again, it's not too bad, but if you zoom in a little, you can see the face isn't sharp...settings were as follows:

F-stop - 3.5
Exposure - 1/125 sec
focul length - 24mm
ISO - 100

Everything else is same as last picture, using umbrella as fill flash to my left.  I shoot in RAW.


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## astroNikon (Aug 19, 2016)

I used to have a hard time using manual.
But then after a while it became second nature.  It actually takes me more time going into a program mode and worrying that the camera will select something else (which it usually does) than what I want (specific Shutter & Aperture).

The flash stops action.  But isn't the VR a "longer" exposure ??   I'm not sure ... one reason I don't use VR for portraiture especially with Flash.

I use AF-S Single for portraiture.  and leave AF-C(ontinuous) then Single/9pt etc for Sports/Action.


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## ShawnW (Aug 19, 2016)

I will shut off VR and see if that helps.  It appears that actually I'm getting a "ghosting" effect.  Not sure.  I guess I should start using Manual, I know most professionals do...again, just lazy I guess.  You're right about the AF-S.  I definitely should be using that, and save the AF-C for weddings and such.  I get stuck in old habits, I tend to forget there are other options that are much better to use.  I have to say though, I'm not convinced shutting the VR off will give me crisper photos.....but I will definitely test the theory.


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## astroNikon (Aug 19, 2016)

I don't know either seriously.  I've never used VR with flash.  Just a habit more than anything else because most of my original lenses (and current) don't have VR, so it's off on my VR lenses.


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## 480sparky (Aug 19, 2016)

1. You're shooting mostly with the lens wide open.  You'll need to stop down 2 or 3 stops to get the lens at it's sharpest.
2. Where are your focus points?  Can you post an unedited image someplace (like DropBox) that doesn't strip the exif data so we can see where the camera is focusing on? My guess is (at least in the first photo), the most contrast is in her feet/shoes, so that's where the camera focuses at.  Given you're shooting wide open, you won't have the DOF to get the face in focus.
3. Shoot using back-button focus using a single focus point.  Place the point on the eyes (_that's_ the target!), focus, then recompose and shoot.


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## KmH (Aug 19, 2016)

You told us what focus mode you had set  - continuous.
Now tell us what focus AREA mode you had set - single point or a multiple point option.
Also tell us what flash sync mode you used.

Using a somewhat slow shutter speed, like 1/60, in the daytime there's not much doubt you can get ghosting.
The flash has a much shorter duration than the exposure.
The flash unit stops motion, but the exposure is still in progress regardless if you use front or rear curtain flash sync.

Nikon's AF-S 24-85 mm f/3.5-4.5G ED VR kit lens definitely doesn't deliver its sharpest focus wide open. Such is usually noted in good reviews. Stop it down if you want tack sharp.

If you want a shallow DoF get a faster lens, that will also likely need to be stopped down for consistent sharp shots.


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## ShawnW (Aug 20, 2016)

Hi Sparky - I guess the reason why the lens is wide open is because I was using the P - Program mode instead of manual.  Below is the EXIF data:

Filename - 113.NEF
ImageWidth - 160
ImageLength - 120
BitsPerSample - 8 8 8
Compression - 1 (None)
PhotometricInterpretation - 2
Make - NIKON CORPORATION
Model - NIKON D610
StripOffset - 130468
Orientation - Right top
SamplesPerPixel - 3
RowsPerStrip - 120
StripByteCount - 57600
XResolution - 300
YResolution - 300
PlanarConfiguration - 1
ResolutionUnit - Inch
Software - Ver.1.00
DateTime - 2016:08:14 17:07:05
Artist -
ReferenceBlackWhite - 0
Copyright - Moments To Capture...
ExifOffset - 1640
DateTimeOriginal - 2016:08:14 17:07:05
ExposureTime - 1/60 seconds
FNumber - 4.20
ExposureProgram - Normal program
ISOSpeedRatings - 100
DateTimeOriginal - 2016:08:14 17:07:05
DateTimeDigitized - 2016:08:14 17:07:05
ExposureBiasValue - 0.67
MaxApertureValue - F 4.14
MeteringMode - Multi-segment
LightSource - Fine weather
Flash - Flash fired, compulsory flash mode, return light not detected
FocalLength - 46.00 mm
UserComment -
SubsecTime - 10
SubsecTimeOriginal - 10
SubsecTimeDigitized - 10
SensingMethod - One-chip color area sensor
FileSource - Other
SceneType - Other
CustomRendered - Normal process
ExposureMode - Auto
White Balance - Manual
DigitalZoomRatio - 1 x
FocalLengthIn35mmFilm - 46 mm
SceneCaptureType - Standard
GainControl - None
Contrast - Normal
Saturation - Normal
Sharpness - Normal
SubjectDistanceRange - Unknown

GPS information: -
GPSVersionID - 2.3.0.0

Maker Note (Vendor): -
Data version - 0120 (808530480)
ISO Setting - 100
Image Quality - RAW
White Balance - SUNNY
Focus Mode - AF-A
Flash Setting - NORMAL
Flash Mode - Built-in,M&Comdr.
White Balance Adjustment - 0
White Balance RB - 814
Exposure Difference - 0.0
Thumbnail IFD offset - 23354
Flash Compensation - 67072
ISO 2 - 100
Serial number - 5003010
Colorspace - sRGB
Active D-Lighting - Off
Picture control - Version - 0100
Picture control - Name - STANDARD
Picture control - Base - STANDARD
Picture control - Adjust - Default
Picture control - Quick Adjust - Normal
Picture control - Sharpness - +3
Picture control - Contrast - Normal
Picture control - Brightness - Normal
Picture control - Saturation - Normal
Picture control - Hue Adjustment - Normal
ISO 3 - 100
ISO Expansion - Off
Lens type - G VR
Lens - 24.00
Flash Used - On camera
Shooting Mode - 65536
Contrast Curve - I0
Noise Reduction - OFF
Lens info - 0204
Total pictures - 35039
Vari Program - Not defined
AF info 2 - version - 0100
Contrast Detect AF - Off

Not sure where in the data it tells you what focus points I was using, but I do remember it was set on "multiple" focus points.  

KMH - to answer your questions, I was using the multiple focus points option.  The flash sync mode was set at, if I remember correctly, 1/160 or 1/200.  I've now changed it to 1/250 (Auto FP) after reading some discussions online that this is the best sync mode to use.  Also, on the flash itself, it was set at TTL BL FP.  

Thanks everyone for your replies.  Very useful information.  After posting the EXIF data, let me know if there's anything else you'd like to share.


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## astroNikon (Aug 20, 2016)

ShawnW said:


> Not sure where in the data it tells you what focus points I was using, but I do remember it was set on "multiple" focus points.
> 
> KMH - to answer your questions, I was using the multiple focus points option.  The flash sync mode was set at, if I remember correctly, 1/160 or 1/200.  I've now changed it to 1/250 (Auto FP) after reading some discussions online that this is the best sync mode to use.  Also, on the flash itself, it was set at TTL BL FP.


So basically you let the CAMERA select where & what to focus on.
Which is the problem.

Change the camera to a Single Focus Point.
If you press the Info button to bring up the LCD
then press the AF button which is in front bottom left by the lens mount.  And hold it down.
notice the LCD.
You can then rotate the rear wheel to change to AF-S
then rotate the front wheel to change the focus points.  In AF-S you have only the option of AUTO or Single point.

Then YOU can select where the camera is going to focus.
FYI, you can also see these settings in the ViewFinder and the Top LCD.


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## ShawnW (Aug 20, 2016)

Yes, Astro, that's correct, that's what I was doing, letting the camera choose.....very rookie mistake.  I've now changed to AF-S....but I can still use AF-C and move the front dial to single point...this way I can hold my finger half way down on the trigger, and the camera will focus on whatever I'm moving and pointing the camera at.  This could be useful at a wedding as the bride or bridal party is walking down the aisle.  Am I correct on this or you think I should just keep it on AF-S?  I'm quite certain the setting I had it on in the picture above was AF-C , using MULTIPLE focus points, which I see now could have been somewhat of the problem.  For portraiture shots, I will def be using the AF-S single point mode.


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## astroNikon (Aug 20, 2016)

nothing wrong with AF-C
I use it for Sports. aircraft, etc.

When I 2nd shoot weddings I'm always in AF-S - Single just because that's what I'm used to.  Never tried AF-C - Single for weddings.  But I'm usually taking one pic at a time.  For moving subjects AF-C - Single is good if you half press and wait which works in weddings too.

The key is that you decide where the camera focuses.


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## 480sparky (Aug 20, 2016)

Go to Back-Button Focusing.  Use the button on the rear of the camera and remove focusing from the shutter button.  Then you can use the BBF to aim a single focus point on exactly what you want in focus, in this case the eyes.  With focus dialed in, you simply recompose and frame to your liking, knowing the camera will not change the focus when shooting.


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## KmH (Aug 20, 2016)

For portraits & weddings I recommend using Center-weighted metering rather than Matrix meter.
You can set how big the area in the center is that gets metered.
See the D610 User's Manual, page 226 - Custom Settings Menu - b4.

The camera software had to be written by the camera engineers to straddle what they thought is the middle of a road all D610 users would travel.
You have more specific requirements and are on a side road not as well defined in the software.
In other words, the more decisions you let the camera make the less control you have, and your ability to consistently produce high quality photographs suffers as a result.

How are you metering the flash, if you meter the flash at all?
What size & type of umbrella did you use?
In the second photo you posted her face is over exposed.


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## weepete (Aug 20, 2016)

If you are using fill flash you'll still need a resonable shutter speed to avoid slight blur as it's only there to lift the foreground shadows. Especially if your ambient light is close to the EV  from your flash exposure, you can get a double exposure effect too which can cause a slight bluring though I'm not sure if that is the case here. Worth remembering though.

But yeah, as the guys have said make sure you've stopped down, got sufficent DOF and have picked the correct focus point in the first instance


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## lance70 (Sep 1, 2016)

If you get more into flash photography you may want to consider picking up a light meter....I was having a similar issue when I started out and received really good advice on here and started seeing improvements. Once you find the sweet spot for your lens it will help you get sharper images as well.


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