# Nikon FE Problem



## JDias (Apr 8, 2013)

Hi Evrybody,

Well, I received my grandfather's old (but almost perfect condition) nikon fe. It had some old batteries that were already leaking. I cleant all up and put new ones. Before it had the batteries on, it only worked in bulb and m90 shutter speeds, then I put them on and now it works with all the shutter speed. The problem is that the shutter speed I choose doesn't match the actual shutter speed (ex. if i choose 8 secs, it shuts at m90). The shutter works fine and fires and comes back to the original position without any problems. ALso, the little red light that's supposed to light up, doesn't. And the Nikon MD-12 grip and engine doesn't work either and the red light doesn't turn on. Do I need to make some kind of "reset"? Please help me 

Thanks form now on to everyone who has the tiem to read this post 

JDias


----------



## Sunwharf (Apr 8, 2013)

Was there a lot of corrosion in the battery chamber? It sounds a bit like the corrosion has got inside the electronics. There isn't a factory reset to my knowledge, it's not a computer controlled camera in the same way as DSLR's. The electronics are pretty basic.

Nick


----------



## Derrel (Apr 8, 2013)

If you have an early FE, the shutter release lock collar, the one that is concentric with the shutter release button, must be ROTATED to the proper position BEFORE the MD-12 is turned on, or it can LOCK-UP the camera, and you will need to turn the camera off, the motor off,remove the motor from the camera, and then put a copper penny on top of the contacts, and that will "cycle" the motor drive's advance cog, thus effectively un-jamming it. Soooo, the MD-12 could very well work, but it might be jammed or,more accurately, *out of synchroniozation with the camera's wind mechanism.*

Also, MD-12's are somewhat battery sensitive...copper tops aka Duracell alkalines, would not work in either of my MD-12's...just WOULD NOT WORK!!!!!! Buuuut, Energizer alkalines would run roll after roll after roo through. Long story, weird experience, cross checked and verified many,many times...odd.

As I recall, the light meter and shutter MUST be advanced to Frame 1, before the shutter will fire at the dial speed every time...this eliminates loooooon, 10,15,20 second exposures if the camera is loaded in AUTO exposure mode and the lens is set to like f/16, or if the lens cap is on...so...

If you post more, very clearly-detailed posts, we might be able to help. The fact that the shutter WILL fire in M90 means the SHUTTER is not totally "shot"; this camera, especially the EARLY production variants, with the rotating locking collar/motor drive advance collar, require some knowledge, and the out-of-synch MD-12 issue can be utterly vexing unless you are intimately familiar with how the camera was designed and how it actually works (or does NOT work, as the case may be!).

LATER-production FE's and FM bodies had the shutter lock/motor-drive interlock system switched to being accomplished by pushing in the film advance lever to it's against-the-body or stowed position.


----------



## JDias (Apr 9, 2013)

Thanks a lot for the help Sunwharf. Well, The batteries were in awful condition. They're leaking and the inside of the battery holder was filled with that white dust. I cleant it like some people said in other forums (pass a cloth, then a rubber for ther corrosion,...) and I'm pretty sure everything else in the inside dind't got damage and is in good confdition, so I think thta's not the problem. Thanks anyway  If you remember anything else please fell free to say


----------



## JDias (Apr 9, 2013)

Thanks a lot Derrel. Well, I don't know if I understood you fully (I'm portuguese and my english isn't very good, sorry), but I think I did . Well, now that i think of it, the problem with the grip might be the batteries. I'm using some recheargeble ones with about 1,2V (!) and 2500mAh. I'll buy a few and see if it works. Now, the camera body is the main problem. I've put the batteries on, and now all the shutter speeds are unlocked (which weren't when the batteries were off; then, the film winder was blocked), but now, a strange thing happens: when I use eletronic shutter speeds, like I said, the shutter always shots at the same speed, but now it locks up if I click tightly (bad temr, but I can't find better ). I've also checked that when it's locked up, if I put on any manual shutter speed it unlocks and comes back to the initial position. This happens in whatever frame I'm in. Hope you can help. Thanks again :hail:


----------



## Derrel (Apr 9, 2013)

YES--I agree, the 8 x 1.25 volt or 8 x 1.3 volt rechargeable batteries might not produce enough electric current to maintain correct operation. You really need eight x 1.5 volts.

Is the lens cap off when you are trying the electronic speeds? I mean, if the lens cap is on...the shutter and mirror will stay "up".

Hugo Rodriguez's web site has a Nikon FE instructional section in Spanish....I know, it is not Portugese, but it's close!!

http://www.hugorodriguez.com/


----------



## Derrel (Apr 9, 2013)

YES--I agree, the 8 x 1.25 volt or 8 x 1.3 volt rechargeable batteries might not produce enough electric current to maintain correct operation. You really need eight x 1.5 volts.

Is the lens cap off when you are trying the electronic speeds? I mean, if the lens cap is on...the shutter and mirror will stay "up".

Hugo Rodriguez's web site has a Nikon FE instructional section in Spanish....I know, it is not Portugese, but it's close!!

Hugorodriguez.com


----------



## JDias (Apr 10, 2013)

Derrel said:


> YES--I agree, the 8 x 1.25 volt or 8 x 1.3 volt rechargeable batteries might not produce enough electric current to maintain correct operation. You really need eight x 1.5 volts.
> 
> Is the lens cap off when you are trying the electronic speeds? I mean, if the lens cap is on...the shutter and mirror will stay "up".
> 
> ...



Ahah thanks a lot. I'll check the site. I don't mind if they're in english. But really, thanks  I'll give news soon.


----------

