# Auto ISO with manual mode. Am I making a mistake ?



## nixgeek (Aug 14, 2019)

Hi All,

I'm using a Nikon d810, and my go-to default setting is to use auto-iso in manual mode. I can quickly change the aperture and shutter speed, which are the most common variables I change when having to quickly pick up my camera and get that moment.

Obviously, the camera then sacrifices the ISO to get a decent exposure.  For more planned shots, like astro or landscapes, I'll use manual ISO as well, but it's a luxury I don't always have when the kids decide to do something funny there and then. I'm fortunate to use chunky glass f/2.8 stuff (it's good for the biceps at least ) , so it's not often it takes me past iso 3200 which the camera/lightroom can deal with.

Finally, the question....

I've read in a number of places I should be using either full manual, aperture/shutter priority and I'm really keen to hear of others experience of auto-iso and if I've overlooked something important.

Thanks!


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## 480sparky (Aug 14, 2019)

Auto ISO is my SOP.  Dial in the aperture and shutter speed I want for the shot, and let the camera choose the ISO.

Cameras and editing apps are getting so good with higher ISOs these days that shooting with it isn't much of an issue.  Back in the day, shooting ISO (ASA then) 400 or more was pretty much crap.  Nowaways, it's 6400 or 12800.


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## Overread (Aug 14, 2019)

Yep provided that the light is manageable for the built in meter to work with (with or without some compensation from you) then its a valid approach for ok lighting where you're not worried about the ISO and where your shutterspeed and aperture are far more important. If all you are going to to do is raise the ISO anyway then let the camera do it - its faster than you will ever be. Of course ilke all automatic elements keep an eye on it, bare in mind the scene and how the meter will read it (eg if you're shooting all snow the camera will underexpose if left on its own to expose the scene).


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## Jeff15 (Aug 14, 2019)

Auto ISO ?  Why not...........


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## Ysarex (Aug 14, 2019)

As long as you're judicious about the shutter speed and f/stop choices you make then auto-ISO is fine. If you're sloppy and select a shutter speed that's 3 stops faster than you really need the camera has no choice but to exchange those three stops for increased ISO. If you just want to be able to grab the camera point and shoot you can set auto-ISO and leave the camera in Program mode -- the camera will try and optimize all three variables. But if you have time to take the photo deliberately and you're setting the most appropriate shutter speed--f/stop then auto-ISO makes logical sense.

Joe


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## nixgeek (Aug 14, 2019)

Ysarex said:


> As long as you're judicious about the shutter speed and f/stop choices you make then auto-ISO is fine. If you're sloppy and select a shutter speed that's 3 stops faster than you really need the camera has no choice but to exchange those three stops for increased ISO. If you just want to be able to grab the camera point and shoot you can set auto-ISO and leave the camera in Program mode -- the camera will try and optimize all three variables. But if you have time to take the photo deliberately and you're setting the most appropriate shutter speed--f/stop then auto-ISO makes logical sense.
> 
> Joe


I see what you are saying about the f-stop. I've had the camera for a while so I can usually guess the f-stop required within a stop. If I've screwed up and it's beyond my desired iso it flashes red on the image to warn me that I've been a muppet. Thanks though, it makes sense.


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## zombiesniper (Aug 14, 2019)

Agree with all of the above. Manual with auto ISO is my go to mode unless I'm in the studio.



nixgeek said:


> I've read in a number of places I should be using either full manual, aperture/shutter priority



There are a couple of reasons people may say this. Sometimes it's to ease people out of the dreaded green auto mode but more often than not it's  narrow minded people that think there's only one way to shoot. I generally ignore anyones opinion that comes with a blanket statement. Yes I see the irony in that statement. lol

As for what's right for you. It's always fun to experiment with new settings/ways of shooting but in the end go with whatever mode you are comfortable with and gives good results.


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## weepete (Aug 14, 2019)

I use that setup a lot, it's also my go to setting for general shooting. Dead easy to then bump the shutter speed or aperture from there. 

I find that there's very few situations I shoot in where I don't want to control both and my camera defaults to 1/60th sec or wide open far too easily. 

Shooting in full manual I prefer, but sometimes there's just not the time to set up shots.


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## Strodav (Aug 14, 2019)

Depends on what you're shooting.  If you are in a studio like setting with controlled or consistent bright lighting set your camera to base ISO (best color depth and SNR), I usually use A mode for still subjects to blur the background when desired, and S for things that are moving to freeze the subject.  For landscapes, base ISO, A mode with a high f stop for greater DOF without refraction, and I don't usually care about the shutter speed unless I've got water or clouds moving.  For wildlife, especially birding, manual mode, usually open aperture or one stop up, shutter somewhere around or above 1/1000, auto ISO from base to about 1600.  For fast birds, like songbirds, I'll be at 1/2500 sec.  Sport, same as wildlife / birding except shutter around 1/500 or 1/800.  Don't get locked into a specific setting.  Use the right tools for the job.  So here's my exception, I always, always use BBF.


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## Braineack (Aug 15, 2019)

It goes get pretty annoying when you're trying to expose for something specific and you don't use AE-L.   I used to use it a lot, and have used it less and less over time.


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## Derrel (Aug 15, 2019)

With a class leading performer like the Nikon D810,or a similar full frame camera such as the D 600 or 610, or D 800 or the D850 The ISO performance is so good that I personally think auto ISO in manual mode is the default Mode that more people should explore. You have been given  solid advice above by several very competent shooters. For non-flash and non-studio situations and rapidly changing  lighting conditions, auto ISO with modern Nikon cameras is very usable. A decade ago iso performance was a constraint, But with cameras such as yours ISO performance is now so good across a wide range of settings that it makes sense to use automatic ISO setting,especially in certain conditions.


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## SquarePeg (Aug 15, 2019)

Joining the crowd - this is the way I shoot most of the time for action, landscapes, kids, animals, nature... unless I'm using my tripod or I have a specific need to keep the ISO low.  Auto ISO is a pretty common setting especially in dynamic situations where you don't have time to adjust before each shot.


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## Derrel (Aug 15, 2019)

About a year ago I taught a beginner how to use Auto iso with her Nikon D3200,and for her it was a revelation.

She had unfortunately been instructed by A person who I considered to be a poor teacher, to use Full manual, which with a one-button camera like the D3200 is more difficult than with a two-button intermediate or high-end camera.

Once she was shown the idea of picking her desired aperture and shutter speed and  allowing the camera to adjust the ISO upward or downward as necessary, she was able to shoot for an entire day with very little effort, and to concentrate upon composition and timing more than on futzing round with her camera's fiddly settings.


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## Overread (Aug 15, 2019)

Yep go back 10 years or so and ISO performance dropped off fast as you went higher and it was far more important to keep an eye on it, so using auto wouldn't have been much of a benefit to photographers. Today where you can easily get to 3200 or higher without huge detriment to the exposure quality; and where nikon has invariant sensors which don't even mind some underexposure; then auto gets far more practical for the ISO! 

In fact as digital has continued to advance its become clear that if ISO performance keeps going at its current rate we might well reach a point where the only time you might have to change it manually is in flash dominated lighting where you want the camera firing on a specific exposure every single time without variation.


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## Derrel (Aug 15, 2019)

At one time even high-end cameras offered very poor middle and higher ISO performance. My first good digital camera was a Nikon D1 in 2001 and it was not that good a camera above about iso 200.today? We get good pictures at ISO 12,800!


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## Warhorse (Aug 15, 2019)

I agree, the unabomber was wrong...not all of modern technology is bad.


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## TreeofLifeStairs (Aug 15, 2019)

Hmmm. I’m going to have to try this. I’ve been a A priority shooter pretty much since I began shooting. There’s some times the camera doesn’t pick a suitable ss for my desired shot though. Next time I go out I’m going to give it a shot.


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## nixgeek (Aug 16, 2019)

Thanks everyone! It's reassuring to know that I'm not the only one that uses auto-iso as the go-to setting.  Landscape, or studio work it's all full manual, but ISO is usually the more acceptable sacrifice when searching for a decent exposure. 

Thanks to everyone that replied!


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## ac12 (Aug 16, 2019)

Use of Auto-ISO depends on the situation.

Example1, when I shoot sports I want control over the aperture (wide open), and shutter speed (min 1/500 sec), so the only variable left is ISO.  So I go auto-ISO in Manual mode.
Example2, for my Olympus and casual shooting, I shoot in Program mode with auto ISO.
Example3, for my Olympus EM1-mk1, in P mode, _using the electronic/silent shutter_, I do NOT use auto-ISO in dim/room lighting.  Because Olympus implemented it badly; the shutter speed will drop down to 1/13 second, before the ISO will rise.  That is a stupid low shutter speed.  At 1/13 sec, anything moving will be blurred.
Quote
I've read in a number of places I should be using either full manual, aperture/shutter priority​
IMHO, that is people "pontificating" that everybody should be doing what they are doing, or they are doing it wrong.
And I call that *dumb.*
The camera exposure control settings are like tools in a toolbox.
I will use the best/most appropriate mode for the task, and I use all four; P,S,A and M.
The trick is LEARNING each mode and learning when to best use each one.​
Example1 - I might use S to fix the shutter speed at 1/1000 sec, when shooting day sports.  I want to fix the shutter speed for sports, and I have plenty of light for the lens to be set to any aperture.

Example2 - I might use A, to fix the aperture at "wide open," when shooting night sports.  In the dim light, I want the lens wide open and the camera to pick the fastest shutter speed for that aperture.
Example3 - When the lighting in the background is inconsistent, I don't want that to throw off the exposure for the subject.  Example shooting in a gym, the camera often gets confused by the lights in the background, badly underexposing the players.  However, the lighting is even, so I can set the exposure manually and leave it there the entire night. 
Otherwise it is like the saying "if the only tool I have it a hammer, the world looks like a nail." 
So I would use a hammer to pound in a screw ????
Or a hammer to break a piece of lumber, rather than a saw ????​


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## ac12 (Aug 16, 2019)

nixgeek said:


> Thanks everyone! It's reassuring to know that I'm not the only one that uses auto-iso as the go-to setting.  Landscape, or studio work it's all full manual, but ISO is usually the more acceptable sacrifice when searching for a decent exposure.
> 
> Thanks to everyone that replied!



I would not say that ISO is the more acceptable sacrifice.
ISO is ONE of the three sides of the exposure triangle.
So it is what balance of the three sides is appropriate for a given shoot.

Example1 - If I want flowy water in a stream, I want a SLOW shutter speed, but to do that I need to get my aperture as small as I can, and my ISO as low as I can.  So the target is shutter speed, and I drive both aperture and ISO to get that low shutter speed.
Example2 -  For max quality still life/landscape, I would set the ISO LOW, then select the best shutter speed and aperture after that.
There is a time and place for auto, and a time and place for manual.


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## ac12 (Aug 16, 2019)

Derrel said:


> About a year ago I taught a beginner how to use Auto iso with her Nikon D3200,and for her it was a revelation.
> 
> She had unfortunately been instructed by A person who I considered to be a poor teacher, to use Full manual, which with a one-button camera like the D3200 is more difficult than with a two-button intermediate or high-end camera.
> 
> Once she was shown the idea of picking her desired aperture and shutter speed and  allowing the camera to adjust the ISO upward or downward as necessary, she was able to shoot for an entire day with very little effort, and to concentrate upon composition and timing more than on futzing round with her camera's fiddly settings.



That is why I do NOT like single dial/wheel cameras.
Too much of a pain for ME to use.

I have to have BOTH dials/wheels, for easy aperture and shutter speed control.
I would have loved a third wheel for ISO, but I reconfigured the camera so I can press the record button and turn the rear wheel, and I can adjust the ISO, with the camera at my face.


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## Derrel (Aug 17, 2019)

One point is that Nikon allows users to set the slow shutter speed threshold below which the camera will not drop, and with the D810, the ISO performance is so good, and the sensor so close to invariant or truly invariant, that it does not really matter much what the shutter speed is, or that the exposure  May appear black on the rear of the camera: if you were shooting in raw mode, even nearly black exposures on the back of the camera are easily recoverable in post.


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## Derrel (Aug 17, 2019)

The use of automatic ISO setting was the source of a very controversial post about four years ago, in which several people described in detail various scenarios in which use of auto ISO in manual exposure mode greatly helped their actual shooting procedure in the field.

With the latest couple of generations of Nikon cameras such as the D600 and newer,or the D800 and newer,and the D7100 and newer, or the D3400 and newer,in many situations with careful use of the auto ISO set up options that are offered to users, in many situations there is very little practical penalty.

In situations where there is a tremendous fluctuation in light levels, such as birds in flight/diving,or when the subject moves rapidly from light to dark areas, using automatic iso and manual exposure helps  the photographer to shoot sequences which are uninterrupted and rapidly made.

One example situation that I have used before is that of shooting at a horse racing or running track, where the action can easily go from bright, brilliant sunlight into the shadow of the stadium in mere seconds. We can Be presented with a light level difference of five or six or seven f/stops of scene brightness in less than an eyeblink, and we can have an instant adjustment of the camera if we use auto ISO, all the while keeping the desired shutter speed and lens aperture!

  As with so many topics, opinions are often lagging behind the newest technological advances. In my opinion it's been about a decade or less since this became a truly viable technique across a wide range of cameras. Since the invention of auto ISO in manual mode, there has been increasing ability  for the user to set his or her own preferences to limit shutter speed and  maximum ISO parameters.But the first 10 years that I had automatic iso setting available to me,I did not have a camera which gave me adequate image quality much above 800;  however today's cameras offer much better performance at much higher ISO ratings. In my opinion t he automatic adjustment of camera iso setting
Is one of the most significant new changes in cameras in recent memory.

I think that since the invention of Sony's Exmor generation of sensors this technology was made practically possible. Before that, ISO performance dropped off so significantly that there was very little practical use for automatic adjustment of ISO except across a very narrow range of values.


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## Overread (Aug 18, 2019)

Also don't forget many people can't keep up at the top end of new camera performance. Even if they once owned a good end camera at one stage. I've still got my 7D as my best performing camera and have not upgraded partly due to budget and partly because Canon hasn't released a 7DMIII (or equivalent under another name). 

I'd also say that sometimes taking up new approaches isnt' just a technology thing but a control thing too. Sometimes there are really neat features ,but they lack the proper interface or control options to really unlock their full potential to the user. Auto ISO on its own is good, but it needs exposure compensation in manual mode to work best otherwise you're gaining speed of ISO change but sacrificing exposure control in any scene that the meter won't give a reliable result without user modification.


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## Tropicalmemories (Aug 18, 2019)

ac12 said:


> Derrel said:
> 
> 
> > About a year ago I taught a beginner how to use Auto iso with her Nikon D3200,and for her it was a revelation.
> ...



That's one reason I use Fuji - separate manual controls for SS, Aperture and ISO.  After years of film SLR's I struggled to adjust to PASM type single dials.

And I set a max iso and min shutter speed and let auto-iso do its thing.

But I also like Shutter Priority for portraits, as Aperture is critical and shutter not really relevant (to a point).


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## greybeard (Oct 7, 2020)

I use manual with auto ISO and back button focus exclusively.  Nothing else makes sense to me anymore but, everybody has their preferences.  That is why these new cameras give us so many choices.  Use whatever seems the most intuitive to you.


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## Space Face (Oct 8, 2020)

I agree with the above.  That's my preference setting 99% of the time.


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## SuzukiGS750EZ (Oct 8, 2020)

I shoot manual with auto iso. BUT, I keep an eye on what the camera is doing with the iso. Its nice to be able to shoot and have the camera change iso on the fly so you aren't chasing a balanced exposure. If you know what ISO you're unhappy with in your camera and the camera is at that point you need to sacrifice your shutter speed or aperture if you want the iso to stay down. I think everybody should know how to manually set iso but letting the camera choose isn't a bad thing. Also, learn how to use exposure compensation if auto iso is where you want to be. It's not cheating or being an amateur by any means. At that point, anybody who uses the in camera meter shoot using a handheld meter could be called the same.


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## Space Face (Oct 8, 2020)

Space Face said:


> I agree with the above.  That's my preference setting 99% of the time.




My bad, I misread that and meant auto WB.  I tend to set the ISO myself to the prevailing light conditions.  I rarely use auto ISO.


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## paigew (Oct 8, 2020)

Odd man out here, I can't stand auto iso.  Manual for me! 

Sent from my Pixel 3 using Tapatalk


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## Photo7360 (Oct 10, 2020)

nixgeek said:


> Hi All,
> 
> I'm using a Nikon d810, and my go-to default setting is to use auto-iso in manual mode. I can quickly change the aperture and shutter speed, which are the most common variables I change when having to quickly pick up my camera and get that moment.
> 
> ...





When I first started using digital cameras I tried the Auto ISO. I didn't keep using it very long. I don't like it and don't recommend it. 

I shoot in apature priority. I keep my ISO in manual. I set the ISO myself.

I own several digitals. The ones I mainly use are the D3, D3s, D4s and D5. All but the D5 have the ISO setting on the back. You don't have to go through menus to find it so it's very easy and quick to change the ISO when needed. The D5 has the ISO setting up on top of the camera above the shutter release button. It took me a while to get used to it being there but once I did, I realized how even more convenient it was. 

The only thing I allow to be auto is the white balance and focus. I shoot in aperture priority. I let the camera do the focus but I do the rest.


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## Ysarex (Oct 10, 2020)

Photo7360 said:


> nixgeek said:
> 
> 
> > Hi All,
> ...


If you're using aperture priority then you're also allowing the camera to set the shutter speed automatically.


Photo7360 said:


> I let the camera do the focus but I do the rest.


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## Photo7360 (Oct 10, 2020)

Space Face said:


> Space Face said:
> 
> 
> > I agree with the above.  That's my preference setting 99% of the time.
> ...




I do the same. I shoot in aperture priority not manual. 

I used to shoot in manual but have gotten older and no longer trust my eyes. LOL. I can't shoot with glasses on. I've tried and it just doesn't work for me. I let the camera do the focus for me now.


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## Photo7360 (Oct 10, 2020)

Ysarex said:


> Photo7360 said:
> 
> 
> > nixgeek said:
> ...





That's true. My bad. Thanks.


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## Space Face (Oct 10, 2020)

Photo7360 said:


> Space Face said:
> 
> 
> > Space Face said:
> ...




AF still works in Manual mode.

Except on my MF lenses of course.


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## CherylL (Oct 10, 2020)

paigew said:


> Odd man out here, I can't stand auto iso.  Manual for me!
> 
> Sent from my Pixel 3 using Tapatalk



I'm odd person out too.  Full manual.  I like the external dials and wheels on the Fuji.  The Aperture is on the lens.  With the Canon not as easy.  I just set my ISO, aperture, and starting out shutter speed.  Then drag the shutter as needed.  I switch the aperture and ISO easily on the Fuji.


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## snowbear (Oct 10, 2020)

Photo7360 said:


> When I first started using digital cameras I tried the Auto ISO. I didn't keep using it very long. I don't like it and don't recommend it.


To each, their own.  I use it all the time and have never had a problem; never really had a problem with any of the settings, manual or automatic, though manual focus can be a bit challenging with my eyes.


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## Photo7360 (Oct 11, 2020)

snowbear said:


> Photo7360 said:
> 
> 
> > When I first started using digital cameras I tried the Auto ISO. I didn't keep using it very long. I don't like it and don't recommend it.
> ...




The type of photography I specialize in and worked in didn't allow an Auto ISO. The lights just changed way too much and were way too heavy for an Auto ISO. Same with some of the nature shots I take. Specifically waterfalls. I prefer to have my ISO at it's lowest setting possible to silken the water. I usually shoot it with the aperture around 10 to 15. 

It just depends on the person using the camera and what they are shooting.


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## AlanKlein (Oct 11, 2020)

If you need consistency in look for a bunch of photos, then you ought to use manual or use an auto mode but freeze the settings after the first shot if your camera has that feature.


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## AlanKlein (Oct 11, 2020)

Also, don't forget white balance.  Auto white balance can also throw it off from one picture to the next.


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## photoflyer (Oct 11, 2020)

I frequently use auto ISO but in aperture priority.  The ISO sacrifice is becoming less and less with the newer cameras.  On the R6 I've had shots that I didn't realize were so high (16000 and 20000 in two cases) until I happened to, later, look at the ExIF info. 

I'm sure Nikon is similar in that the minimum speed and max ISO limits can be set.

I'd rather have a little noise and get the speed and DOF I want than to miss the shot. Some shortcomings can be mitigated in post....others cannot.


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## Ysarex (Oct 11, 2020)

I don't get why this is four pages of issue at all. The original OP (thread title) asks about using auto ISO with the camera exposure controls (shutter & f/stop) set manually. If you're setting the exposure manually and really are selecting shutter and f/stop for deliberate reasons then letting the camera set the ISO is simple, straight forward and logical. The camera will select the ISO that the metering system determines is appropriate to render a normal lightness JPEG.* Why would you want any other ISO? With a given exposure, if you select a different ISO than the camera would select you're just making a mistake.** A higher ISO will run the risk of ISO clipping with zero benefit and a lower ISO will produce a too dark JPEG with zero benefit. If you're shooting raw and have a too high ISO (camera won't do that) then you won't be able to fix ISO clipping if it occurs and if you have a too low ISO you'll have to post process to correct the lightness (too dark) and you gain nothing of benefit either way.

The only reason to not use auto ISO is if you really don't intend a specific exposure and plan to re-calc and compromise the exposure -- a different question.

* There is the possibility that you're selecting an exposure that would require an ISO value below the camera's low limit but that's something of an outlier situation.
** Dual impedance sensors have become increasingly common and it's possible someone could fuss over auto ISO selecting an ISO just slightly above or below the channel switch.


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## Ysarex (Oct 11, 2020)

C. M said:


> Ysarex said:
> 
> 
> > I don't get why this is four pages of issue at all. The original OP (thread title) asks about using auto ISO with the camera exposure controls (shutter & f/stop) set manually. If you're setting the exposure manually and really are selecting shutter and f/stop for deliberate reasons then letting the camera set the ISO is simple, straight forward and logical. The camera will select the ISO that the metering system determines is appropriate to render a normal lightness JPEG.* Why would you want any other ISO? With a given exposure, if you select a different ISO than the camera would select you're just making a mistake.** A higher ISO will run the risk of ISO clipping with zero benefit and a lower ISO will produce a too dark JPEG with zero benefit. If you're shooting raw and have a too high ISO (camera won't do that) then you won't be able to fix ISO clipping if it occurs and if you have a too low ISO you'll have to post process to correct the lightness (too dark) and you gain nothing of benefit either way.
> ...


I can't make any sense out of what you're saying. The Nikon I have does exactly what would be expected with the ISO set to auto and the camera exposure controls set to manual. It selects the same ISO in auto as would otherwise zero the meter if the ISO was set manually. Which is what my other cameras do as well.


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## Ysarex (Oct 11, 2020)

C. M said:


> thats your fault then.


Clearly not. Read your first sentence below.  


C. M said:


> the camera seems to have preferences to run the exposure meter to 0 or +1.  I THINK sartore stated the same thing in his photo class dvd classes. At least he said he runs his preset to -.5 to -1.0  It seems to give better images either way.
> 
> But if left to its own devices, many situations the camera seems to ALWAYS choose an ISO level 10-30,000 HIGHER then what happens when i manually set aperture and shutter.  EVEN IF I MANUALLY SET THE SAME SHUTTER AND F STOP THE AE DOES.



I don't know what you're trying to describe but this is how auto-ISO used with manual exposure works. That is the topic: auto ISO with exposure set manually.




 

In the above illustration the camera's exposure mode is set to M. ISO is likewise set manually and I set it to 3200. I set the shutter and f/stop (1/80 sec and f/4) so that the meter would zero at the set ISO of 3200. Note the meter is zeroed. In the next illustration I changed the ISO to auto.



 

The camera is still set to M. The shutter and f/stop are the same as above -- no exposure change. The meter is still reading zero. The camera is now set to auto ISO and the ISO selected is 3200. 3200 is the same ISO I had set manually a moment ago. It's the same meter controlling the camera either way and it's going to pick the same ISO in auto that brought the meter to zero when the ISO was set manually. My other cameras all work the same way. If yours doesn't this may help: Nikon Service and Repair


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## ac12 (Oct 12, 2020)

Like the PSAM modes, Auto ISO is simply another exposure tool.
Sometimes it works and is appropriate, sometimes it does not work and should not be used.
As the photographer, it is your job to use it appropriately.

Example, when I shoot night sports, I shoot in manual, lens wide open, 1/800 sec shutter speed (to stop action).
Then I let auto ISO, adjust the ISO to let me shoot at my chosen aperture and shutter speed.
BUT, when the lighting is difficult (like BLACK background), and the meter cannot handle the difficult lighting conditions, I have to go FULL manual, and lock the ISO, to prevent the camera from messing up the exposure.


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## greybeard (Oct 12, 2020)

nixgeek said:


> Hi All,
> 
> I'm using a Nikon d810, and my go-to default setting is to use auto-iso in manual mode. I can quickly change the aperture and shutter speed, which are the most common variables I change when having to quickly pick up my camera and get that moment.
> 
> ...


If your pictures look properly exposed, then it is not a mistake.  Keep an eye on the iso the camera selects and the exposure indicator at the bottom of the screen.  There may be times when the light is too bright or dark for the shutter/aperture you have.


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## stevet1 (Oct 28, 2020)

I started out using manual and auto ISO, but wasn't satisfied with the result. I thought my pictures were too overexposed. I started using aperture priority with a manual ISO setting of 100. I think I am taking better pictures now. 
It could be that initially, I was using a shutter speed that was too fast, and the camera was choosing a high ISO to compensate. I was routinely using a shutter speed of about 1/400th. I'll gave to experiment some more.
Steve Thomas


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## greybeard (Oct 28, 2020)

It is all about control.  I set all my cameras to manual, auto iso and, back button AFC.  It took me a while to get use to this as I had usually used aperture priority set the iso and used AFS.  I forget where I read about my present setup but it made sense.  Now i have the AF-L/AE-L Button set to AF only and the shutter release to AE-L only.  I press the AF-L/AE-L button to focus and half press the shutter release to lock exposure.  I have AFC as long as I have my thumb pressed and exposure lock as long as I half press the shutter release.  I can AFS by just holding down my thumb until I have focus and then just let off.  By 1/2 pressing the shutter release at the same time, I'm locking exposure on the main subject with the aperture and shutter speed I want.  The only time this doesn't work is when the subject is too bright for my minimum iso so I have to keep an eye on the exposure meter.


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## Grandpa Ron (Nov 7, 2020)

Do not forget dumb luck or lack of it. I was on aperture priority and shooting an outdoor model train display.
I let the camera choose the shutter speed and ISO. All was well.

I decided to try a +/-  f stop test on a shaded area. So I switched to manual mode, set the shutter speed and f stop to the last aperture mode setting then I made some shots a couple of f stops over and a couple of shots under that f stop.

Well it seems with the ISO on auto the camera simply compensated for the aperture change. So once again I get reminded that I am a mere mortal.


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## LWW (Jan 6, 2021)

nixgeek said:


> Hi All,
> 
> I'm using a Nikon d810, and my go-to default setting is to use auto-iso in manual mode. I can quickly change the aperture and shutter speed, which are the most common variables I change when having to quickly pick up my camera and get that moment.
> 
> ...


I shoot in manual mode with auto ISO most of the time. Now and then I get a shot with a bit more noise than I would like, but the less than perfect shot you get is always better than the perfect shot you missed.

I also shoot mostly with matrix metering for the same reason, the less than perfect exposure is always better than the perfect exposure you missed.

Perfect is the mortal enemy of really good, and the biggest thing I see beginner, and even experienced, photographers make is to overthink things in pursuit of perfection.

Below are three of the best, if not the best, sports photos of all time.

All have technical issues, and can be criticized by pixel peepers, but the eye is drawn to the moment that they captured and not that they lack perfection.

Copyrighted images removed. Please do not post photos to which you do not have rights. You may post a link.

Action photography is mostly what I shoot.

I've been doing this for over fifty years and am still learning.

Now, landscapes and museum shots are a different thing. Subjects don't move and lighting doesn't usually change rapidly ... but I still shoot manual with auto ISO, but I will check where the ISO is before I click the shutter.


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## John Fantastic (Jan 13, 2021)

Auto ISO in Manual Mode I think is perfect in sports photography. You select the AV and TV and the camera adjust the ISO for proper exposure.


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## greybeard (Feb 12, 2021)

I use Auto ISO in manual most of the time.  The only screw up I've ever had with it was not paying attention to the meter and over exposing because the iso couldn't go low enough.  There are times when I like to take my time and do it all manually with auto iso switched off.  Reminds me of my old Minolta SRT201 and the match needle exposure system it had.


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