# Dust Removal before the shot



## photospherix

It seems that I am getting older, I can not see what I could 10 years ago. As of late, I am spending way to much time removing dust from products in post production. I know a better way must exist, but I am looking for thoughts.

How are you Dusting and Cleaning products before photography? Static Brush, Compressed Air, Cloth


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## beachrat

I use auto body prep tack cloths for most of what I need to shoot.
A lot of the products are painted, and the tack lifts dust and lint without creating any static. But be advised that they are impregnated with a resin of some kind whether its water based or solvent.


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## KmH

Photographic lighting makes dust more visible in the photograph than it is in real life, so don't be so hard on yourself.


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## photospherix

Beachrat, I will see what I can come up with in that direction. I had not thought that way. I know with furniture refinishing, I have used a similar product in the past.


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## photospherix

KmH, I was thinking about going the whole CSI thing and adding a black light in the inspection area. It could work 2 fold, on Fridays after all of the shooting is complete, we could have a mini Disco in the studio.


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## Designer

The biggest problem with dust is static electricity.  Don't use compressed air or ordinary cloth as they will just create more static.  A tacky cloth could leave "wipe" marks on shiny surfaces.  I think the best approach is to try to eliminate dust in the room.  This will probably mean drastic changes in the way you do things, so consider it a major project.  Think of a "clean room" approach.  Get everything that holds or makes dust out of the room.  Things such as cardboard, cloth, drapes, carpeting, or any other dusty things.  Clean the ceiling and walls then the floor.  Make sure the HVAC system isn't contributing more dust every minute.  Run an air cleaner most of the time, and shut it off about half an hour before shooting.  Get some static treatment from your local discount store.  Treat some lint-free cloths with the material according the directions.  (It has to dry completely)  Then using a new, treated cloth for each item carefully wipe the surfaces slowly so as to not to generate static.  Carefully place each used cloth in a closed container after use.  You will launder the dust cloths between shoots and re-treat them with the anti-static material.


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## Derrel

I was watching a Tony Corbell video segment on Creativelive.com, in which he used black plexiglas as the shooting surface, and he placed a small electric fan into a position where it would blow away dust before it settled on the surface of the plexiglas.


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## Designer

Derrel said:


> I was watching a Tony Corbell video segment on Creativelive.com, in which he used black plexiglas as the shooting surface, and he placed a small electric fan into a position where it would blow away dust before it settled on the surface of the plexiglas.



Well, yea, MOVING dust will not show up in the photograph.

Now that Derrel has mentioned it, maybe the fan idea is the best way to go.

*F* the dust!


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## photospherix

The only advantage I have had of late is that the customers are not asking for "high detail zoom" on most of the small objects.

http://zoom.photospherix.com/gopro/gopro.html

But I still see the dust in and around the lens.


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## Designer

photospherix said:


> The only advantage I have had of late is that the customers are not asking for "high detail zoom" on most of the small objects.
> 
> http://zoom.photospherix.com/gopro/gopro.html
> 
> But I still see the dust in and around the lens.



Since glass is non-conductive, dust will adhere by static electricity more to the glass surfaces.  Also the plastic body, but you just can't see it there.  I also thought of a new, clean dryer sheet to carefully brush away the dust.  Do not use pressure on your client's camera lens, because it might scratch or leave residue.  Unless you clear all the dust from the air, dust will settle on the lens again.


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## falcontertomt

You can get static free vacuums that are designed to clean computer parts Metro Vacuum DV3ESD1 DataVac/3 ESD Anti-Static 1.7-HP Vacuum/Blower with Hepa Filter - Amazon.com 

The down side it that they run a couple hundred bucks. 

Another thing you might try is a bulb syringe that they use to clean out newborn's nose and mouth, its like a turkey baster, but with a smaller opening plus its a lot cheaper. 
Amazon.com: Hospital&#39;s Choice Nasal Aspirator: Baby


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## photospherix

Remember, This is just one of the latest examples of the issue. It is never the same from day to day, the products always change. I know that in a perfect world, we would all work in a clean room. Where no dust can ever enter the environment, but that never works in our studio. A little more house keeping could be in order, but the clean room will never work. I'm happy when everyone is willing to empty the trash can. 

I am going to test out the idea of the dryer sheet on a few products. I also think I will add a little UV light to the prep area so that maybe we can see the dust a little better. I keep thinking that if we can see it, we can get rid of it. 

I was just hoping for that silver bullet of a "blah blah blah" haired brush, or the xyz wipe cloth, but it sounds like we all have the same issues. 

On a side note, I do not think it is dust settling on the products, or dust in the room, but more dust and debris from packaging. Sometimes we see it and it is an easy fix, but the smaller the product the more detail we have in the shot, and more sins will show.


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## Designer

photospherix said:


> ..but more dust and debris from packaging.



Oh, yes.  I understand.  If there was some way to ground everything to neutralize the static I think it will help.  Computer technicians wear a conductive arm strap that is always grounded.  Maybe that would help.  Just brushing the particles around creates more static, and makes the particles adhere even tighter.  

Good luck!


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## Roger3006

I fight it everyday.  I use a tack cloth, soft brush, good filters in my central heat/air etc.  On some things I use an anti-static spray like used in painting a car.  Mix one part water with one part alcohol and put it in a spray bottle.  Don't use it on anything that water can hurt.  I will also remove all the oil so be careful if what you are photographing is subject to rust.  I photograph firearms.  Most of the guns I photograph do not get the spray.  If it one of the new plastic guns of the week they get a good dose.

Open the tack cloth all the way up.  Wipe your surface very lightly so it will not leave a streak.  Keep it in a zip-lock so it does not dry out.  They are cheap if you buy them at a paint store so replace it often.

A tack cloth is cheese cloth soaked it linseed oil.

I also deal with old eyes.

Roger


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## davisphotos

I photograph antiques, many of which are absurdly dusty, and I have yet to find a very good solution. The tack cloth idea, while a good one, would not go over well if I were to wipe antiques with linseed oil. I do use an air blower, paper towels and I've been meaning to pick up an air compressor for a while now.


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## SeanBolton

Ive used compressed air in the past. But when Im out I use one of these.


Great in a pinch.


Sbphotography.com


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## Roger3006

A tack cloth does not leave lindseed oil on the surface.  Wipe the surface very lightly.  A tack cloth is sticky.  Tack cloths are used in painting.  The last think you would want on a car before you painted it is a residue.

Don't overlook a vacuum cleaner.  I use a good shop vac with a variety of brushes.  Some are very small.  You want a unit with a filtered exhaust. 

I do use compressed air; however, it you are dealing with a lot of dust you end up getting everything airborne making the problem worse.

As far as antique furniture, a vacuum would be my first step.  I also use pipe cleaners Q-Tips, and anything else I can find to get into tight places.


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## Braineack

Derrel said:


> I was watching a Tony Corbell video segment on Creativelive.com, in which he used black plexiglas as the shooting surface, and he placed a small electric fan into a position where it would blow away dust before it settled on the surface of the plexiglas.



probably easier than the spot correction tool...


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## EIngerson

I use a lens cloth and Zeiss lens fluid. Works outstanding. Spray the fluid on the cloth, rub the area needing the dusting then wipe with a dry part of the cloth. Be careful though. You'll lose track and run out of lens clothes for your lenseslike I did. lol


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## 0nelove

I've used automotive wax and anti-dust/anti-static furniture spray products with good results on certain objects (that can be used with it of course).  The fan is an interesting idea as well.  Having an uber clean studio and filtration system is really the best precaution.


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## table1349

Tony Corbell is right.  Light positive air flow will do wonders with keeping dust off products during a shoot.  Of course it  helps if the product is spotless to start with.


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## mickmac

I wash the products, dry with a lint free cloth and then I give it a good going over with a camera lens cleaning pump. Same one Sean Bolton posted a picture of.


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