# Print Size for Weddings



## N1C0L3 (Oct 13, 2010)

I wanted to get your thoughts on print sizes for wedding photographs.. as you know the ratios of the images that come out of the camera are different than what people expect for standard sizes. For example, people expect an 8x10 inch print but dSLRs output an image size that is actually 8x12.  Do you always have to crop your images to be equivalent to 8x10? Or is it ok to give someone an 8x12 inch print?  I don't always like cropping my photos just to fit the proper ratio, but I don't want clients to be mad if they can't find a frame to fit an odd size like 8x12 or 16x24 etc.. of course they always have the option to get it custom framed by me 
I have a friend photographer who actually expands his pictures sometimes using clone stamp rather than cropping them to make them the right ratio. I don't want to have to do that though.. thoughts?


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## Flash Harry (Oct 13, 2010)

Do what most photographers have done for years, shoot to crop, 35mm film doesn't print at 10x8 either. H


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## Big Mike (Oct 13, 2010)

If the client orders an 8x10, then that's what they get.  If I'm selling them the files, they are all at 2:3 (4x6).

As mentioned, if you are aware of the different ratios, then you should be able to 'shoot to crop' so that you don't get stuck with a great image that won't be great anymore when cropped to 4:5.  
In other words, loosen up your composition and leave room around your subject.  It's a lot quicker & easier to do that, than to add more with the clone stamp.  

By the way, Photoshop CS4 & CS5 have 'content aware scaling' which can, in some situations, make it very easy to expand an image.


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## KmH (Oct 13, 2010)

Flash Harry said:


> Do what most photographers have done for years, shoot to crop, 35mm film doesn't print at 10x8 either. H


 


Big Mike said:


> If the client orders an 8x10, then that's what they get. If I'm selling them the files, they are all at 2:3 (4x6).
> 
> As mentioned, if you are aware of the different ratios, then you should be able to 'shoot to crop' so that you don't get stuck with a great image that won't be great anymore when cropped to 4:5.
> In other words, loosen up your composition and leave room around your subject. It's a lot quicker & easier to do that, than to add more with the clone stamp.
> ...


The technique of 'shoot to crop' is also known as 'shooting fat'.


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## N1C0L3 (Oct 13, 2010)

Ok thanks guys, that makes sense.  I'll keep that in mind while shooting


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## rdptheman65 (Dec 18, 2010)

I am really happy to see this post because it has been a dilemma of mine as well.  I watch a good bit of training videos such as the Kelby online training stuff, and the instructors always appear to be shooting for the exact frame they want in the camera.  It looks great in camera but unless you know the exact prints someone is going to order ahead of time, I see no other solution then to shoot 'Fat' as KmH mentioned.


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## mzgloves20 (Dec 18, 2010)

I would imagine taking a lot of pics for online content makes shooting fat tricky to remember when you are suddenly shooting to make prints for a client. Shots that look good in the viewfinder usually look good online becuse it dosen't have to fit any frame...lol...


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