# Concert photography (what should I use)?



## CVC (Jan 22, 2010)

Hi!

I've been photographing for a long time, but since I've just moved to a bigger city with several clubs, I now want to do concert photography (which I never done before). I'm just a bit in doubt when it comes to gear, and what to use when shooting indoor concerts.

I own the following gear:

- Nikon D300
- Nikon D80
- Nikon 18-200 VR
- Nikon 50 f/1.8
- Tamron 90 f/2.8
- Tokina 12-24 Pro f/4
- Nikon SB-600

What will be good to use during concert shooting?

Thanx in advance!


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## gsgary (Jan 22, 2010)

You only have one lens that is fast enough your 50mmF1.8


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## ChasK (Jan 22, 2010)

The camera with the highest ISO and least noise, the fastest lens, not knowing the size of the venues you'll be at, a fast wider lens (than your 50mm f1.8) may be needed, the flash may also be usfull.  With the flash you'll loose most if not all of the effect from colored stage lights.

Your 12-24 f4 may not be fast enough, but I'd take it anyway.

Because of movement, to avoid blur you will want to as fast a shutter speed as you can.  Which means, depending on the light, something like 125 at f1.8 and 800 iso.  Which is the same as 250 at f1.8 and 1600 iso, or 60 at f1.8 and 400 iso.  I'm not real familiar with your Nikons and noise but you may also want to look at some noise reduction filters or actions for Photoshop.  I think it is easier to fix noise than blur in post.  And it is easier to fix problems in camera than in post.


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## flightless_beaker (Jan 22, 2010)

I agree with getting a faster wider lens. The 35mm should be fine. Its relatively inexpensive and has a 1.8 f-stop. I feel your D300 will do better with the noise than your D80 so I'd definitely use your D300. Also the RAW capture should be better.


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## CVC (Jan 22, 2010)

Thanx for your answers. I'm aware about ISO, shutterspeeds and so on, and I did think that the 50 mm was my only true option. 

If I should buy a standard zoom lens (other than the Nikon 17-55 2.8, or the tele 70-200 VR - which I can't afford right now) to use shooting concerts, do you have any suggestions?


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## Village Idiot (Jan 22, 2010)

CVC said:


> Hi!
> 
> I've been photographing for a long time, but since I've just moved to a bigger city with several clubs, I now want to do concert photography (which I never done before). I'm just a bit in doubt when it comes to gear, and what to use when shooting indoor concerts.
> 
> ...


 
Concerts tell us nothing. DJ's? Live artist/bands? Classical Orchestras?

It's really going to depend on what your shooting and the venue. Most venues that I shoot at do or have at one point hosted some pretty big name bands. They're small, but they generally have very decent lighting. 

Also, most shows that I've shot have the photo pit right against the stage. I was shooting with a 17-40 f/4 on a full frame camera to get full body shots because I was that close.

How's the high ISO performance on your D300? As long as you expose properly, you should be able to get decent usable photos that may only need a touch of noise reduction in post.

Also, most bands don't allow flash at their shows. It also kills the look the stage lighting gives if you try and use flashes for live shows.



gsgary said:


> You only have one lens that is fast enough your 50mmF1.8


 
Even before the advent of DSLRs that could comfortably shoot at 3200 and 6400 ISO, people have been recommending the 70-200 f/2.8 lenses forever.

My last show I shot had a lot of shots at f/4 so I could have more than one person in focus.


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## gsgary (Jan 22, 2010)

CVC said:


> Thanx for your answers. I'm aware about ISO, shutterspeeds and so on, and I did think that the 50 mm was my only true option.
> 
> If I should buy a standard zoom lens (other than the Nikon 17-55 2.8, or the tele 70-200 VR - which I can't afford right now) to use shooting concerts, do you have any suggestions?



For concerts in small clubs primes rule, unless they have very good lighting
last week i tried out my 70-200F4L on my 1Dmk2 (5D had a 300F2.8L on)at a well lit concert, worked well
ISO1600


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## CVC (Jan 22, 2010)

Hi again,

Well it's a midsize venue here in Denmark (6-700 people and it's full). They have decent lighting and I want to shoot bands - rock/metal for the most.

Here's some pictures from the venue: Gimle - Billeder


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## Village Idiot (Jan 22, 2010)

CVC said:


> Hi again,
> 
> Well it's a midsize venue here in Denmark (6-700 people and it's full). They have decent lighting and I want to shoot bands - rock/metal for the most.
> 
> Here's some pictures from the venue: Gimle - Billeder


 
If they put up a pit infront of the stage, you're going to need wiiiiide.


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## CVC (Jan 22, 2010)

There's no pit... that's rare here in DK ;-). So I can move anywhere I want, and 70% of the time im interested in getting close-ups.


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## ChasK (Jan 22, 2010)

CVC said:


> Thanx for your answers. I'm aware about ISO, shutterspeeds and so on, and I did think that the 50 mm was my only true option.
> 
> If I should buy a standard zoom lens (other than the Nikon 17-55 2.8, or the tele 70-200 VR - which I can't afford right now) to use shooting concerts, do you have any suggestions?



Before you spend your money on a new lens, shoot a few with what you've got and see what you run into.  Experience is the best teacher.  If you can, rent what you think you want to buy.  Most stores that rent equipment will let you apply at least a part of the rental to a purchase.  It may cost a little more in the short term but it is a lot cheaper than buying $1000.00 paperweights or dust collectors.


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## gsgary (Jan 22, 2010)

CVC said:


> Hi again,
> 
> Well it's a midsize venue here in Denmark (6-700 people and it's full). They have decent lighting and I want to shoot bands - rock/metal for the most.
> 
> Here's some pictures from the venue: Gimle - Billeder




Your 50mm should be ok, try it out before you buy anything else


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## CVC (Jan 22, 2010)

Thanx for your help!


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## bhphotography (Jan 22, 2010)

If you can get close your 50 will work just fine, if not, you may need a 70-200 f2.8

The key is to have fast glass.


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## Village Idiot (Jan 22, 2010)

bhphotography said:


> If you can get close your 50 will work just fine, if not, you may need a 70-200 f2.8
> 
> The key is to have fast glass.


 
HA ha...I was like, Srsly? B&H is going to try and sell this guy a new camera and lenses.


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## tailz03 (Jan 22, 2010)

I have been a concert photographer for a few years now and i never leave without my 70-200mm f2.8, my 50mm prime and suprisingly my 24-105mm.


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## sharpeye (Jan 24, 2010)

I shoot concerts on a regular basis with varying light conditions. Mostly jazz artists and the lighting varies from very well lit to not much light at all.

I shoot with 2 Nikon D300 bodies and own one of the lenses you mentioned (18-200 VR II). Your 50mm f/1.8 will work fine, but won't give you closeups. Your Tamron 90mm f/2.8 will be good enough most of the time, but you will be shooting wide open.
The lenses I use most often are: 70-200 f/2.8, 300mm f/2.8, Tamron 28-75 f/2.8 and a 85mm f/1.8. Occasionally, I'll use the 50mm f/1.4, but only when really close to the stage. On the D300, the noise picks up considerably at ISO settings above 800. I tend to shoot at 1600, with a white balance set to 2700 degrees Kelvin. My typical exposure is around 1/40 second at f/4. Shoot in RAW mode and use the histogram display and the "highlights" turned on. I'll meter using the spot meter setting, then adjust the exposure based on what I see on the histogram.

In all the venues I shoot, flash is strictly forbidden.


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## tailz03 (Jan 24, 2010)

sharpeye said:


> I shoot concerts on a regular basis with varying light conditions. Mostly jazz artists and the lighting varies from very well lit to not much light at all.
> 
> I shoot with 2 Nikon D300 bodies and own one of the lenses you mentioned (18-200 VR II). Your 50mm f/1.8 will work fine, but won't give you closeups. Your Tamron 90mm f/2.8 will be good enough most of the time, but you will be shooting wide open.
> The lenses I use most often are: 70-200 f/2.8, 300mm f/2.8, Tamron 28-75 f/2.8 and a 85mm f/1.8. Occasionally, I'll use the 50mm f/1.4, but only when really close to the stage. On the D300, the noise picks up considerably at ISO settings above 800. I tend to shoot at 1600, with a white balance set to 2700 degrees Kelvin. My typical exposure is around 1/40 second at f/4. Shoot in RAW mode and use the histogram display and the "highlights" turned on. I'll meter using the spot meter setting, then adjust the exposure based on what I see on the histogram.
> ...



..dude seriously... 1/40?? how on earth are you managing to get anything usuable with that speed? lowest i can use is 1/80 and thats only usually if the singer is standstill but mind you i do a lot of punk and rock bands that move about constantly... but still thats very low.


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## littlesandra (Jan 25, 2010)

Concerts are my blood, they keep me going. 

Like has been mentioned before, flash is never permitted (unless it's a smaller club, then double double triple check with the promoter). 

I usually shoot at 2.8-4.0 1/60-1/100 iso 400-640 depending on the situation, how fast the band moves, lighting set up etc.. 

My two side kicks are my 50mm 1.8 and my 24-70mm 2.8, I'm investing in a wider angle in a month or so. 

Just get out and practice at smaller shows first and get your feel for certain lighting situations. Just when you think you have it all figured out, a band will walk out on stage back lit with only one red front light and you're ****ting yourself.


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## flightless_beaker (Jan 26, 2010)

I want to get into concert photography. Any suggestions on how to get my foot in the door? I know a couple musicians but I don't think they can afford to hire me.


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## fokker (Jan 27, 2010)

Getting your foot in the door doesn't usually involve being paid...


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## GRTaylor2 (Jan 29, 2010)

Lenses are where it's at with concert photography. I use 50mm 1.8 and my 24-70mm 2.8 almost exclusively for all concert assignments. Typically my ISO is set anywhere from 400-1600 based on credential limitations and stage lighting.

Just go out and shoot as often as possible and get to know how your gear responds to the light. After that - it'll be obvious to you where you'll need to fill in the gaps.


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## flightless_beaker (Jan 30, 2010)

fokker said:


> Getting your foot in the door doesn't usually involve being paid...



Figured as much, lol.


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