# Canon ae-1



## Alex_811 (Jun 2, 2014)

I'm a beginner at photography. I've been interested in it for a while. My school doesn't offer photograph until nest year so until the. I will be using he forum. I am using a Canon ae-1 from 1976. I love it!! I dropped off the film today so I'm not going to be able to see the outcome of my work until Friday. I was wondering if anyone was familiar with the camera that I am using and if so would you please share some pointers wih me. Thanks!! I hope someone can help!:blushing:


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## dxqcanada (Jun 2, 2014)

Pointers ? What exactly are you looking for ?
How long have you been using the camera?
Are you familiar with it (did you read the entire manual) ?
What lenses do you have ?

BTW, you may find the Film Forum http://www.thephotoforum.com/forum/film-photography/ section a little quiet at times ... but you will get some feedback if you ask the right questions.


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## Alex_811 (Jun 3, 2014)

Thanks for responding. I'm not exactly sure what type of lens I have. I'm new to photography. I only have one lens and it might be the one hat camera came with. I'm not sure how I identify the lens so of ou could tell me how I will defiantly tell you what it is. Is there anything specific that I should know about the camera itself. If it helps I am interested in nature, potraits, action (if it's good for that),and I would like to get some really nice sun shots. I ordered the manual because the one it came with was destroyed


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## Ysarex (Jun 3, 2014)

The 1976 AE-1. I remember it well -- the accursed thing. That's the camera that single-handily brought the professional 35mm film camera to the brink of extinction.

The AE-1 was the first electronically controlled camera (shutter priority) to capture, no create the mass consumer market. It wasn't the first camera with a semi-auto mode but it was the camera that burst out of the enthusiast market and started selling hand over fist at X-mart. By the end of it's run Canon sold more AE-1s than all other camera makers had sold of all other cameras since the invention of photography.

The AE-1 was so successful that the other camera manufacturers were caught with their pants down. A mad rush ensued to release competitive cameras and in the process the flagship pro-model cameras started dropping like dominoes. Canon's own F-1 (magnificent machine) bit the dust soon followed by the Pentax LX followed by the OM-2, etc. It was like watching a massacre. When the dust settled only the Nikon F3 was left standing. I will always remember Nikon's faithfulness during that time of trial. Canon's answer was to release the A-1 in 1980 -- plastic cr*p.

I worked behind a camera store sales counter at the time and I'll never forget the experience. "Lock the ring on the lens to A. Set one of the 5 top shutter speeds and just look through the viewfinder. If the needle isn't pointing into the red you're good to go." That was the beginning: "If the needle doesn't point to red...."

Welcome to the forum -- that's an historic camera you've got there.

Joe


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## astroNikon (Jun 3, 2014)

I have one, but I haven't put batteries in it in at least a decade.
So no help .. other than it's a great camera as Ysarex mentions.


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## Alex_811 (Jun 3, 2014)

Wow!! Everyone's been saying that it's a good camera, I'm glad to hear it from someone who sold them. Thank you so much for the history, I enjoyed it!!
I found out what type of lens that I have... It's a HOYA 55mm SKYLIGHT(1B)


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## dxqcanada (Jun 3, 2014)

Manuals are available for download here: CANON Camera Manuals, canon Flash manuals

Lens is marked on front ring
example  http://mir.com.my/rb/photography/companies/canon/fdresources/fdlenses/


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## Ysarex (Jun 3, 2014)

Alex_811 said:


> Wow!! Everyone's been saying that it's a good camera, I'm glad to hear it from someone who sold them. Thank you so much for the history, I enjoyed it!!
> I found out what type of lens that I have... It's a HOYA 55mm SKYLIGHT(1B)



Easy now -- I said they sold a boat load of them (couple boat loads I imagine). They killed the really good cameras! If yours is in good working order it'll take good photos.

That's the filter on the lens -- it screws off and then you'll be able to see what lens you have. Most likely a 50mm f/1.8 in a Canon breach mount.

So I'm that old huh?

Joe


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## minicoop1985 (Jun 3, 2014)

I have an AE-1 Program. Not sure if the shutters are the same, but they're prone to squeaking. That's fairly easy to solve. Rem-Oil spray (gun lube) can help-DON'T use WD-40 like a lot of Youtube videos advertise. There's four screws that hold on the front cover over the lens mount. Remove those, then pop the cover off. Once that's off, take out the top screws in the mount itself, and one SHORT blast of that Rem-Oil per screw hole should do it. Just put it back together and it should stop squealing. Worked on my Program.


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## Alex_811 (Jun 3, 2014)

Oooohhhh, thanks! It seems to be all good. I had it inspected by a person who is really good with cameras. She said it was in pretty great condition so I was excited to hear that! Just looked at the camera, it is a 50mm 1:1.8 s.c.


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## TCampbell (Jun 3, 2014)

Alex_811 said:


> I'm a beginner at photography. I've been interested in it for a while. My school doesn't offer photograph until nest year so until the. I will be using he forum. I am using a Canon ae-1 from 1976. I love it!! I dropped off the film today so I'm not going to be able to see the outcome of my work until Friday. I was wondering if anyone was familiar with the camera that I am using and if so would you please share some pointers wih me. Thanks!! I hope someone can help!:blushing:



I have the same camera (it was actually my first "new" camera.  I *think* I got mine new in 1977... perhaps it was 1978).   It's a good solid body.

I don't use mine anymore... now it sits on the shelf as a conversation piece (though it does still work.)

Do you have the manual for it?  (i.e. do you know what all the buttons and dials on the body do?)

I can tell you what these odd buttons and controls are if you don't have a manual.

Obviously you've learned to load and unload the film (at least you hope you have).  In any case... at some point just about every 35mm film photographer has made the mistake of mis-loading the film.  I used to try to be "sparring" with the film by winding in "just enough" to get it started.  After working for a studio, I learned NEVER to do that... I now give it at least TWO winds before I close the door.  If that means I come up one frame short on my roll... so be it.  I'd rather have 23 good exposures on a 24 exposure roll... than 24 dark exposures because the film was mis-loaded.


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## Alex_811 (Jun 3, 2014)

Dxqcanada thank I for the Manual download I appreciate it!!


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## Alex_811 (Jun 3, 2014)

Tcampbell I'm the same way with the film I just loaded a new roll yesterday I will start Doug what ou said from now on.


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## vintagesnaps (Jun 3, 2014)

I have different Canon bodies but have the same lens - I use mostly all mechanical film cameras that only take a battery for the meter. I do like Tim does and usually advance the film a couple of frames after I load the film to be sure it caught and isn't going anywhere! really to make sure it's spooling smoothly.

Your camera should be fine for shooting nature, or anything really. The only thing about action shots would be depending on how close you can be at a sporting event a short telephoto might be something you'd want to get eventually. I mostly use 135mm or 50mm and have done sports/events, art photography; shoot scenery, architecture, etc.

You might enjoy  Film Photography Project | An Internet Radio Show & On-Line Resource for Film Shooters Worldwide  - they do a podcast, have videos on everything from how to load film. Hope you enjoy your summer with your camera.


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## dxqcanada (Jun 3, 2014)

Alex_811 said:


> Just looked at the camera, it is a 50mm 1:1.8 s.c.



OK, that is the "standard" lens. Very typical for older film SLR's.
Anything smaller mm would be a wider angle ... smaller objects + greater field of view.
Larger mm would be telephoto ... magnify objects + narrower field of view.

Typically, the lenses that were obtained was the 28mm, 35mm, 85mm, and 200mm.
There are many zoom lenses that cover these focal lengths.

Learn to "read" the negative, and not the print.


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## Alex_811 (Jun 3, 2014)

I feel like I am asking a lot so my apologies if I'm getting annoying but like I said I'm new to photography and would like I take it more seriously. I'm not exactly see what you meant by "read" the negative, not the print. Would ou mind explains? Thanks!


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## glun (Jun 3, 2014)

I've the exact camera and I really liked it. Depends on what you want to learn there're just too many things to talk about. One thing suggest though is to get a ISO100 film to test out your skills (of course after reading some photography books etc). I got a Fujifilm Superia Reala ISO100 film and planning to take some photos this weekend.


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## limr (Jun 3, 2014)

Alex_811 said:


> I feel like I am asking a lot so my apologies if I'm getting annoying but like I said I'm new to photography and would like I take it more seriously. I'm not exactly see what you meant by "read" the negative, not the print. Would ou mind explains? Thanks!



He means learning how to determine if the picture is good before even seeing the final positive print.

For example, looking at this negative, I could determine if the picture was exposed properly, more or less, and also developed properly (more or less).




Here's the positive image for that negative. I might also have realized that thought the image probably was exposed and developed properly, but the final positive image wasn't much to write home about 


Here are a few resources:
The Online Darkroom: How to read a negative

Molecular Expressions Microscopy Primer: Photomicrography - Black & White Film Processing Errors

Welcome, by the way, to the forum, to photography, and especially to film!


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## Steve5D (Jun 4, 2014)

I used to have an AE-1; no idea what happened to it.

I do have a black-body A-1 that I'd like to run some film through at some point, just to do it...


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## Alex_811 (Jun 6, 2014)

When I take pictures I notice a M in red and a meter. What is the meter for? I have also seen the red dot light up several times. I know that that is an indication that he there isn't enough light is that where the meter comes in to play?


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## minicoop1985 (Jun 6, 2014)

OK. I'm gonna take a stab here. The M and the other dots are your meter. The dots correspond with a recommended shutter speed based on what aperture (f) you've selected and the light coming through the lens. Some cameras are different (my Minolta X-370 flashes your chosen speed and the meter determined speed is shown as a constant), but I BELIEVE the AE-1 just tells you what it thinks you should be on, not the one you are on. I could be wrong there, and I think the AE-1 Program is different, so i can't go check.


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## Alex_811 (Jun 7, 2014)

Ok thank you, I will double check on that just in case. I have another question shocker! When I go to buy film I have been getting the 400 speed. Do I have to keep that camera on that speed or can I adjust for different things i.e. sports?


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## dxqcanada (Jun 7, 2014)

No, you really cannot change the ISO setting
Film sensitivity is not variable

The M means the aperture is not set to A - auto
The circular LED on the bottom indicates under-exposure
The red zone on the top indicates over-exposure

If you are in M mode, then you are in manual exposure. The meter will tell you what lens aperture to manually set based on the shutter speed you have selected
If the lens is set to A then the camera will automatically set the lens aperture


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## Alex_811 (Jun 7, 2014)

Getting ready to go to a soccer game. Is my lens good for action shots? I have the standard one.


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## dxqcanada (Jun 7, 2014)

You are going to have to run with them on the field to get any close up shots

300mm or more would be better


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## Alex_811 (Jun 7, 2014)

Ok, thank you! But Can I adjust the shutter speed?


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## dxqcanada (Jun 7, 2014)

You can adjust the shutter speed to whatever you want ... as long as you do not over or under expose.
For moving objects you should keep the shutter speed high ... ex. 250 or higher ... to freeze action.


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## Alex_811 (Jun 11, 2014)

I picked up my pictures yesterday... I think they came out pretty good. When I figure out how to pot them I will. Let me know what you guys think!


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## Alex_811 (Jun 12, 2014)

What does the speed of the film do? Is there certain speeds for certain events?


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## limr (Jun 12, 2014)

The film speed tells you how sensitive it is to light. Lower numbers (ISO 50, 100) are less sensitive, so they need more light and are good for outdoor, daylight shots. They are considered "slow" speed film. High speed film, like 400, 800 and higher, are more sensitive to light so it takes less light to make a good exposure. These are often used for indoor shots or night shots. 200 is a medium speed and fairly flexible.

This isn't to say that you HAVE to use 100 for shooting outdoors, or 400 for indoors. Depends on what you want to do and what your camera can do. For example, I have some cameras whose shutters only go to 1/250. I would rather use low speed film for that so I have more flexibility in setting the cameras shutter and aperture for the exposure. If I use higher speed film, I have less flexibility - it's more sensitive to light, so I'd generally be using faster shutter speeds, but if I only can go as fast as 1/250, I have fewer options for shooting.

Make sense?


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## Alex_811 (Jun 13, 2014)

Ok thank tou


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## Alex_811 (Jun 26, 2014)

I'm looking into purchasing parts for my canon ae-1. I'm looking into lenses and I really need a flash. Would anybody happen to know what flash you would necessarily purchase for my camera? If so please let me know asap. Thanks!!


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## Alex_811 (Jun 28, 2014)

Is it worth getting the flash??


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## limr (Jun 28, 2014)

Sorry no one's answered you yet, Alex! I wish I could help, but I don't use Canon and I don't use flash either. In general, however, I'd say if you found a flash for a good price, it would probably be a good idea to grab it, at least so you can figure out if you would use it or not. And then if you ended up not really using it, you could resell. As for which one? I've got no idea. Sorry again!


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## vintagesnaps (Jun 28, 2014)

I have other mechanical Canon cameras so wasn't sure for the AE-1 but found info. on the site linked below. It says if you use another flash instead of a Canon speedlight to set it to 1/60 and gives further instructions in the section titled 'Flash Photography with the AE-1'. Most mechanical cameras seem to have either a sync speed of 1/125 or 1/60 and it's often marked in red. 

The Canon AE-1 - Camera Operation Part VI


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## TCampbell (Jun 29, 2014)

Alex_811 said:


> Is it worth getting the flash??



The flash support was fairly basic back when the AE-1 was a new camera.   There was no E-TTL II, E-TTL, nor even A-TTL.  The "thyristor" flash was as advanced as it got (and those weren't very advanced.)  The thyristor is a circuit which can dump a lot of power and quickly kill it when needed.  The flash had a sensor on the front which reads how much light is returning so the flash can kill the light when it thinks it has received enough reflected light.

Flashes were either (a) completely manual, or (b) relied on a sensor to automatically control flash power. 

If the flash used a sensor (on the front of the flash) then it pumps out power until it thinks enough light has bounced back to properly expose the shot.  It was fairly easy to confuse the flash... the scene really needed to be normal middle-gray stuff so that on the whole you get "average" reflectivity.  Anyway... the automatic flash had a low and high power mode.  The flash would tell you what aperture to set for low power mode and what aperture to set for high power mode.  But if it was a Canon (or designed for Canon) flash you could set the aperture ring on the lens to the "A" (automatic) and the flash would tell the camera which f-stop to use (and it was always one or the other).  

SO... the ONLY thing you got for using a Canon compatible automatic flash was you could turn the aperture ring the "A" instead of turning it to the f-stop indicated on the flash.  Not exactly a big deal -- and keep in mind it's VERY easy to fool any flash relying on a thyristor.

The flash that came out with the AE-1 was a the Canon 155A.  This was a thyristor flash with the pins to automatically tell the camera which aperture to use (as long as you set the aperture ring on the lens to the "A").  It could not "bounce" (no tilt or pan on the flash head).

A few years later, they came out with the 199A... a bit more power and it could swivel left/right and tilt up for a bounce.

The shutter speed must be set to the lightning bolt (1/60th of a second) or slower.  That's the flash sync speed for an AE-1.


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## Alex_811 (Jun 29, 2014)

Thank you all for replying. I'm definatly going to take all of the information that I recieved from you guys to help purchase a flash. Once again thanks and appreciate it!!


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## Alex_811 (Jul 29, 2014)

I've been starting to take long exposure shots the past few days. I set the shutter speed to B and hold it down until I feel it's good "long exposure". I'm going to start logging the times from now on. I use a tripod so the pictures aren't blurry from movement although I did do one free handed. Aside from that, I was wondering if I should be using a sync cord for long exposures?


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## Alex_811 (Jul 29, 2014)

I've been starting to take long exposure shots the past few days. I set the shutter speed to B and hold it down until I feel it's good "long exposure". I'm going to start logging the times from now on. I use a tripod so the pictures aren't blurry from movement although I did do one free handed. Aside from that, I was wondering if I should be using a sync cord for long exposures? If so, are only certain sync cords compatible with the Canon ae -1?


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## dxqcanada (Jul 29, 2014)

Always good to have a cable release to reduce vibration.
You can use any standard screw in release ... though the cheap plastic ones fall apart quickly, just dab some glue.


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## minicoop1985 (Jul 29, 2014)

Metal ones aren't expensive either and are often found with cameras. I've got a couple that came with my Blad-they're great.


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## Alex_811 (Jul 29, 2014)

Alright great thanks! Any specific brand that you could recommend? Also, just making sure, but could I use flash for long exposure?


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## TCampbell (Jul 29, 2014)

Alex_811 said:


> Alright great thanks! Any specific brand that you could recommend? Also, just making sure, but could I use flash for long exposure?



Alex, I'm not sure if you're asking about brands for the remote plunger... or brands for the flash.  

I have (presumably somewhere around here) two different plungers.  One was a braided metal cable ... fairly short (perhaps about 10") and a metal pin, metal threads, metal plunge button on the end.  When you pushed in the button, there was a set-screw (knurled finger-screw) that you can snug down to hold the button in... if you wanted to take a very long exposure and just lock the button and walk away.  It was mostly all metal.  Of course I got these things back in the late 1970's... we didn't use so much plastic back then.   

The "other" plunger is about 20 feet long... the shutter pin is also metal, but the 20' length isn't a cable -- it's an air-tube.  There's an air-bulb at the end.  Squeeze the bulb and air-pressure pushes the shutter pin.  But this plunger would slowly leak air (you could not, for example, take a 5 minute exposure with it.)

I think it's been 35 years since I bought these and I probably didn't pay much attention to the brand.  They both worked well and served their purpose.

Here's an example of one... note that this has the "screw lock" option and if you look at the alternatives... some of them have this screw lock and some do not.  If you plan to use the release cable for "long" exposures, it's nice to be able to snug down the plunge lock and walk away.    Bower Cloth-Coated Cable Release With Lock (20") SR-716 B&H

As for long exposure flash...

When you use a flash, the flash fires once and typically it fires as soon as the shutter completely opens.  You can hold the shutter open as long as you want but the flash doesn't fire again.  Some flashes offer the option for "2nd curtain shutter sync" which means rather than fire the flash when the shutter OPENS... the flash is deferred until just before the shutter is about to CLOSE.  But this requires a more advanced interface between camera and flash than an AE-1 would have.   

There is also a notion of "multi-strobic" flash.  You set the flash frequency (the rate at which it will fire... e.g. 4 times per second) and the total number of flashes (e.g. 8 flashes) and that would mean the flash is going to fire 8 times across a span of 2 seconds.  This is use if, for example, you want to photograph an athlete performing some action and you want to capture their body at multiple points through the action (e.g. throwing a baseball for example).  Of course you couldn't leave a shutter open for 2 full seconds in broad daylight so you'd probably move the athlete to a studio to take the shot -- but you get the idea.


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