# What mode do you shoot in?



## AlexGavillan (Aug 11, 2018)

Hey guys,

Me again  curious to know what mode some of you shoot in, from beginner to paid professional. I have no problem shooting in manual mode, I'm confident enough on how to read the light meter, histogram, etc. To get the proper exposure. I was reading an article earlier this week and there were some pros saying they shoot in shutter priority, aperture priority, etc. So they don't miss the moment. 

When I first started I was  in aperture priority almost all the time, while learning about exposure, the different metering modes, etc but once I understood that, I switched to manual mode to have better control over my photos .

So... I bring this up mainly because I do find myself adjusting shutter speed a lot when shooting outdoors and shadows come into play or clouds (ISO set to lowest if possible and I set the aperture to what I want to shoot at) and I can see missing certain shots as a real thing. I don't have a studio so I can see where one can control lighting, etc shooting in manual is easier or just makes more sense. . I have a kid so most of my stuff is outdoors, lots of movement and ever changing light. 

I'm not looking for a "hey you should shoot in X" just curious what all of you shoot in and if that changes based on the situation. 

Alex


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## john.margetts (Aug 11, 2018)

Where both aperture and shutter speed are important (ie wildlife) I use manual mode with auto ISO  and one stop EC. For everything else I use aperture priority mode.

Sent from my 8070 using Tapatalk


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## 480sparky (Aug 11, 2018)

I shoot in manual mode with auto ISO.  I choose the aperture and shutter speed I want for the image and the camera picks the ISO needed for 'correct' exposure.  That works 98% of the time for me.  For the other 2%, I just turn off the auto ISO and set all three parameters manually.


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## tirediron (Aug 11, 2018)

All of them, as appropriate.  If motion control is important (speed events), then shutter priority.  If DoF is important (large groups), then aperture priority.  When the conditions aren't ideal, or I want to achieve something particular (backlight) then manual.  In general, I try and leave my bodies in 'P', so that if I have to grab one and shoot in a hurry, then I'm reasonably assured of getting a usable image.


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## SquarePeg (Aug 11, 2018)

Same as above I set aperture and  shutter speed to meet my needs and use auto ISO (max set to 12800).  I use EC to tweak the exposure.  Spot or matrix metering depending on the subject and light.  I rarely, if ever, shoot in any other way but...  

If I really want low ISO (portraits), I’ll set that too and let shutter speed be my variable.


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## AlexGavillan (Aug 11, 2018)

Thank you all!! This is very helpful and awesome to hear. Another question that I forgot to include in my OP. I remember why I stopped using aperture priority mode, I do a LOT of focus and recompose. So what was happening is I would meter off of the subject, focus and the recompose the shot. When using center weighted metering this would sometimes throw off the exposure of the subject and thus be overexposed or under. I guess I could us spot and choose one of the AF points, but that's hard with a 2 year old haha.

since I shoot with a D3400 I only have 11 AF points so that's what I switched to manual so I could meter off the subject then focus and recompose and still get the shot I was looking for. I guess this is where exposure compensation comes into play?

I'm trying not to set bad habits since I'm still a beginner I guess I'm looking for best practice when it comes to that.


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## Gary A. (Aug 11, 2018)

Typically I shoot Manual with Spot.  I'll meter off something Medium Gray or a shade/zone/density I recognize and manually compensate accordingly.  Of late, I've been shooting with an EVF and I manually adjust to the viewfinder, completely disregarding the meter.


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## SquarePeg (Aug 11, 2018)

I never focus and recompose. I had a terrible keeper rate when I tried that.  I would think you’d have better luck with apps-c zone focusing than focus/recompose if using the focus point and moving it to your spot won’t work for you.  Also when I had only 11 focus points, I found it easiest 90% of the time to use the center focus point and shoot wide then crop after as needed instead of scrolling the focus point all over the place and missing the shot.


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## Gary A. (Aug 11, 2018)

SquarePeg said:


> I never focus and recompose. I had a terrible keeper rate when I tried that.  I would think you’d have better luck with apps-c zone focusing than focus/recompose if using the focus point and moving it to your spot won’t work for you.  Also when I had only 11 focus points, I found it easiest 90% of the time to use the center focus point and shoot wide then crop after as needed instead of scrolling the focus point all over the place and missing the shot.


I always focus and recompose.  Rear Button Focus, Center Point Focus and recompose.


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## AlexGavillan (Aug 11, 2018)

SquarePeg said:


> I never focus and recompose. I had a terrible keeper rate when I tried that.  I would think you’d have better luck with apps-c zone focusing than focus/recompose if using the focus point and moving it to your spot won’t work for you.  Also when I had only 11 focus points, I found it easiest 90% of the time to use the center focus point and shoot wide then crop after as needed instead of scrolling the focus point all over the place and missing the shot.



That's a good tip. I find that my exposure is off (when not using full manual mode) vs focus not being sharp. 



Gary A. said:


> SquarePeg said:
> 
> 
> > I never focus and recompose. I had a terrible keeper rate when I tried that.  I would think you’d have better luck with apps-c zone focusing than focus/recompose if using the focus point and moving it to your spot won’t work for you.  Also when I had only 11 focus points, I found it easiest 90% of the time to use the center focus point and shoot wide then crop after as needed instead of scrolling the focus point all over the place and missing the shot.
> ...



Ya, back button focusing. Haven't used it all that much, but have played around with it when shooting in VERY low light with a tripod. Lights on, set focus (back button) lights off then snap the photo .


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## Derrel (Aug 11, 2018)

I shoot mostly in Manual mode with Auto ISO if conditions are variable.  This allows me to pick the shutter speed and aperture that I want or need, and to maintain those settings no matter which direction I point the camera. In places where the light can change tremendously, such as at the beach, auto ISO makes a lot of sense.

 I also like aperture priority auto, and used it quite a bit, and just look and see what shutter speed I'm gettin, and if it's good, then I'm good to go. I usually have a pretty good idea of what the speed will be anyway.

 When I do flash photography either with a speed light or studio strobes, I always pick the ISO and I always use manual mode since it's the easiest way to make adjustments that actually get applied to the photo. I am not a fan of TTL flash control, because I don't like trying to outthink it.


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## TreeofLifeStairs (Aug 11, 2018)

I typically use ap for most of my shooting and just manually adjust when the scene dictated it. The exception to this is when I shoot with a flash, then it’s always manual. 


Sent from my iPhone using ThePhotoForum.com mobile app


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## AlexGavillan (Aug 11, 2018)

Thanks guys, can't tell you how helpfull this is. I dont have any family/friends that are into photography, everyone has a camera phone these days so... Haha


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## jcdeboever (Aug 12, 2018)

I shoot in manual most of the time. I mostly manual focus as well because my camera has focus peaking highlights.

 I spot meter mostly, unless the light is harsh and there is a lot of landscape around my subject. 

When I shoot sports, I use aperture priority mode, shoot wide open to isolate subject, auto ISO is adjusted to a point that allows for desired shutter speed to freeze action and accommodate lens focal length. Typically I am in center or matrix metering mode for sports. I use single point focus, pump the shutter, and have my focus square in the area where the head of the subject is, when the head drops in the square I fully depress the shutter. 

The EC button is your friend, test it occasionally against the histogram while working a scene. You can't recover blown highlights and it's easier to lift shadows. 

Practice sunny 16 rule. Look at the light, where it's at, how its falling on subject. Set your camera where you think it should meter correctly at, then bring the camera to your face, adjust if necessary, saves tons of time in both taking images as well as editing them. 

Practice your cameras light meter, see how it responds in different lighting conditions. You will be surprised at what each mode can do for the look of an image. 

With flash, always shoot manual. Spot meter the brightest area around your subject and use the flash to fill the subject with light. I don't like being restricted by sync speeds, I'm just trying to illuminate the subject. I'm not a fan of ttl unless I doing an event of some sort, it always needs to be edited in post. Manual flash with flash compensation works better for me in most situations, or times when I can dial it in. Practice this in back yard, inside the home under relaxed conditions. Pay attention to all your settings and how they can be controlled when it matters. Flash compensation is your friend here, it can saves tons of time in post.

IMO, EC is the greatest feature a camera can have. Shoot a film camera without it for a while to truly appreciate it. If you hate editing photos, it is your best friend.


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## weepete (Aug 12, 2018)

Another one here that mostly shoots in manual most of the time. I just find it simpler and easier to control shutter speed and depth of field that way. It's rare that I'm shooting in conditions where I don't have to pay attention to both, so setting them once and then I'm good to go is just easier for me. I also don't like the alogarithm in my camera, seems to default to wide open, 1/60th sec and low ISO where most often. Admitedly not so much of an issue if you can set a minimum shutter speedbut I don't have that functionality yet. If conditions vary I'm much more likley to up the ISO.


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## DarkShadow (Aug 12, 2018)

Manual Mode,auto ISO  always for wildlife, Manual mode,manual ISO For longer exposures at Night or bulb mode.Use aperture priority often to depending on what I am shooting. shutter priority I never touch it.


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## AlexGavillan (Aug 12, 2018)

So when you guys are talking about EC are you adding a stop or removing (if that's the proper term) sounds like it's better to not blow out your highlights, or again is it dependent on what you're doing .

Or is it a stop either way depending on what you're seeing on the camera and histogram? 

Thanks!


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## john.margetts (Aug 12, 2018)

I add one stop of exposure. If you are shooting Raw you have quite a bit of latitude and for wildlife (which is what I use EC for) there is often a lot of sky in the image causing the camera to under-expose somewhat.


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## jcdeboever (Aug 12, 2018)

AlexGavillan said:


> So when you guys are talking about EC are you adding a stop or removing (if that's the proper term) sounds like it's better to not blow out your highlights, or again is it dependent on what you're doing .
> 
> Or is it a stop either way depending on what you're seeing on the camera and histogram?
> 
> Thanks!


Yes adding or removing stops. I use it to control highlights mostly and can see it right away when they are not blinking in the histogram. The camera often gets it real close so it's a way to fine tune or it is for me anyway. I have mine set on the rear command dial which is not the default place.


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## Gary A. (Aug 12, 2018)

EC is needed for Auto Exposure Modes.  If you're in, say Aperture Priority then the EC will adjust shutter speed to over/under expose.  In Shutter Priority the EC will adjust the aperture in order to under/over expose. In manual the photog decides between aperture or shutter to attain an over or under exposure.


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## AlexGavillan (Aug 12, 2018)

Thanks guys! Makes total sense for wildlife, or shooting against something pretty bright. I did some practice shooting the other day, just experimenting with all of the different ways people on here shot. I did find that I was nailing exposure a lot better when using one of the priority modes, duh haha. There were a couple times where I was shooting in my garage, out towards the sun and it was exposing for the scene and not my daughter, but that was easy to adjust for.

Hopefully today, ill get out of the backyard and take a walk downtown and shoot some more with all of these new tips and tricks.

One from yesterday, you cant tell since its in B&W but when I shot this my daughter was a silhouette and the background was properly exposed... Adjusted in LR but I like it in B&W haha


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## Gary A. (Aug 12, 2018)

Alex, (I can call you Alex? ), You need to understand how a light meter works.  A basic light meter reads for "Medium Gray".  If you fill the viewfinder with a white wall and center the needle, the unadjusted image will be medium gray.  If you fill the viewfinder with a black wall, center the needle, the unadjusted image will be medium gray.  If you're using a gray card, then a light meter will be spot on. Otherwise, the meter is more of a guide than law.  The meter gives you medium gray and you need to compensate accordingly.  The modern digital meters, vis-a-vis metering modes and complicated algorithms, makes metering more accurate for general photography. If you want to get together and shoot something PM me, we can meet halfway.


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## jcdeboever (Aug 12, 2018)

Gary A. said:


> Alex, (I can call you Alex? ), You need to understand how a light meter works.  A basic light meter reads for "Medium Gray".  If you fill the viewfinder with a white wall and center the needle, the unadjusted image will be medium gray.  If you fill the viewfinder with a black wall, center the needle, the unadjusted image will be medium gray.  If you're using a gray card, then a light meter will be spot on. Otherwise, the meter is more of a guide than law.  The meter gives you medium gray and you need to compensate accordingly.  The modern digital meters, vis-a-vis metering modes and complicated algorithms, makes metering more accurate for general photography. If you want to get together and shoot something PM me, we can meet halfway.


Do it Alex! He is a master.


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## AlexGavillan (Aug 12, 2018)

Gary A. said:


> Alex, (I can call you Alex? ), You need to understand how a light meter works.  A basic light meter reads for "Medium Gray".  If you fill the viewfinder with a white wall and center the needle, the unadjusted image will be medium gray.  If you fill the viewfinder with a black wall, center the needle, the unadjusted image will be medium gray.  If you're using a gray card, then a light meter will be spot on. Otherwise, the meter is more of a guide than law.  The meter gives you medium gray and you need to compensate accordingly.  The modern digital meters, vis-a-vis metering modes and complicated algorithms, makes metering more accurate for general photography. If you want to get together and shoot something PM me, we can meet halfway.



I learn all these concepts, read the articles watch the videos, and then when I go outside to shoot....it goes out the window haha. I def need to practice more on things that don't move, ie,. It my child  I'd love to meet up and shoot sometime. Like I said, I don't have anyone that is into photography as much as I am local, so I welcome the opportunity and appreciate you taking your time, even just to offer, thank you!



jcdeboever said:


> Gary A. said:
> 
> 
> > Alex, (I can call you Alex? ), You need to understand how a light meter works.  A basic light meter reads for "Medium Gray".  If you fill the viewfinder with a white wall and center the needle, the unadjusted image will be medium gray.  If you fill the viewfinder with a black wall, center the needle, the unadjusted image will be medium gray.  If you're using a gray card, then a light meter will be spot on. Otherwise, the meter is more of a guide than law.  The meter gives you medium gray and you need to compensate accordingly.  The modern digital meters, vis-a-vis metering modes and complicated algorithms, makes metering more accurate for general photography. If you want to get together and shoot something PM me, we can meet halfway.
> ...



Indeed!! Gotta get taken to school


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## Rick Waldroup (Aug 13, 2018)

Aperture Priority with center-weighted metering.  I have shot this way since I bought my first Nikon F3.  Before that, it was in manual.  

I have shot this way for decades.  I changed nothing when I went digital.  I use only one focus spot- the middle - and recompose after focusing, if I need to.  

I shoot mostly street and documentary stuff, so this system has always worked well for me.

However, I just recently ventured back into film photography.   I recently acquired an 8x10 pinhole camera and plan on doing some type of B&W street photography with it.   In the near future I hope to be posting some scans of the resulting 8x10 contact prints.


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## zombiesniper (Aug 13, 2018)

Outside the studio

99% Manual with AUTO ISO and spot metering, use EV Comp if I know the camera isn't going to calculate exposure properly (Shooting anything white or black). 1% manual ISO as well.

In the studio

Manual


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## Fujidave (Aug 13, 2018)

On my old Canon gear it was both Aperture and Manual.  Since moving to Fuji it is always full manual now, but when I get my new lens I might go back to aperture.


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## AlexGavillan (Aug 13, 2018)

Thanks guys!! So much good info here, I love it.


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## BrentC (Aug 13, 2018)

I shoot mostly wildlife and a lot of the time you need to be quick so I don't like bothering with too much control.   So for the most part I shoot in Aperture and Auto-ISO w/minimum shutter speed set and spot metering.    I have two custom settings that I mostly use for wildlife, makes it very quick for me to go from still to action, one for still which I set minimum shutter to 1/500 and one for action/bifs that I set to 1/2000.   
This allows me to control aperture with my thumb and EC with my trigger finger and not worry about shutter.   Having an EVF with live histogram and blinkies allows me to adjust EC on the fly to get the exposure I need.   Of course I still screw up more than I like.
I'll go to Manual when I need to be more critical in my settings or if I have the time to make adjustments.


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## shadowlands (Aug 13, 2018)

Aperture Priority 90% of the time.


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## vintagesnaps (Aug 13, 2018)

I don't do modes. Mostly I use mechanical film cameras or my digital camera with vintage lenses, so I'm usually shooting manual. 

With the photo of your daughter in the garage, your camera's meter may have been reading the light coming in from the doorway. I sometimes frame lower to meter the scene where the subject is, then reframe to take the picture - I don't want the meter to read just the light coming in from the background and adjust for that. Or sometimes I frame roughly halfway in between the foreground and background. 

I suppose over enough years you learn how to meter and get proper exposures. And being a film shooter, you have to learn proper exposure unless you want to waste a lot of not so inexpensive film these days (even when film was cheaper, you didn't want to waste it). 


What was the question again...?? lol


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## vintagesnaps (Aug 13, 2018)

I don't use EC or get blinkies; did when I first had a digital camera and was shooting in the JPEG setting. When I started shooting in Raw a light bulb went on over my head and for me things fell into place. (My digital camera is DNG so it automatically produces a Raw image and a JPEG from that.

Anyway, I'm not sure why in an article some pros said they used a particular priority so as not to miss the moment. I shoot hockey in manual so it's a matter of learning good techniques and practicing if you don't want to miss the moment. I've often known shooting film that I nailed it (or that I missed it and cuss or mumble under my breath). But you don't get to that point overnight of sometimes knowing as soon as you release the shutter that you got it or you didn't (or, maybe you got it, maybe you didn't...).


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## AlexGavillan (Aug 13, 2018)

More great info. I never shot film, at least nothing better than a disposable camera haha

Shot some tonight in aperture priority and I loved it  set my aperture and adjusted EC to -3 and was nailing the exposure I wanted. I took a ton, but I won't share them all haha. One of my favorites.


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## DanOstergren (Aug 14, 2018)

I shoot in manual 100% of the time these days. I don't judge others for using priority modes or auto mode, nor do I feel any sense of superiority over photographers who shoot in other modes. For what I shoot there just isn't any need for me to shoot in any other mode besides manual.


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## pixmedic (Aug 14, 2018)

ive only had luck in shooting with the camera in "ON" mode.


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## john.margetts (Aug 14, 2018)

'On' works well . . .


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## AlexGavillan (Aug 14, 2018)

I don't think my camera has this "on" mode you speak of. It's funny though, next to my "off" mode I do have a "no" mode and that seems to work for me....


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## AlanKlein (Aug 14, 2018)

AlexGavillan said:


> Thank you all!! This is very helpful and awesome to hear. Another question that I forgot to include in my OP. I remember why I stopped using aperture priority mode, I do a LOT of focus and recompose. So what was happening is I would meter off of the subject, focus and the recompose the shot. When using center weighted metering this would sometimes throw off the exposure of the subject and thus be overexposed or under. I guess I could us spot and choose one of the AF points, but that's hard with a 2 year old haha.
> 
> since I shoot with a D3400 I only have 11 AF points so that's what I switched to manual so I could meter off the subject then focus and recompose and still get the shot I was looking for. I guess this is where exposure compensation comes into play?
> 
> I'm trying not to set bad habits since I'm still a beginner I guess I'm looking for best practice when it comes to that.



I use focus and reframe a lot.  Check to see if your camera has an exposure lock setting.  That way, you can lock the exposure so it won't change when you reframe.


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## AlexGavillan (Aug 14, 2018)

AlanKlein said:


> AlexGavillan said:
> 
> 
> > Thank you all!! This is very helpful and awesome to hear. Another question that I forgot to include in my OP. I remember why I stopped using aperture priority mode, I do a LOT of focus and recompose. So what was happening is I would meter off of the subject, focus and the recompose the shot. When using center weighted metering this would sometimes throw off the exposure of the subject and thus be overexposed or under. I guess I could us spot and choose one of the AF points, but that's hard with a 2 year old haha.
> ...



I actually mapped that AE button on my camera so that it holds the exposure so that I can then focus and recompose. I played around with it a tad bit and then switched to using EC instead. I may give it some more time though as it was pretty helpful.


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## adamhiram (Aug 14, 2018)

I typically shoot in aperture priority, especially where I might be shooting in changing conditions or need to just grab and go.  If the exposure is way off, such as in snow or at the beach, I can easily tweak the exposure compensation by a few stops as needed.  Most of the time I am using matrix metering.  For relatively constant lighting conditions, I'll often take a test shot in aperture priority to get my settings close, then switch to manual.  For a more controlled environment such as with studio lighting, full manual with a light meter.


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## Ysarex (Aug 14, 2018)

AlexGavillan said:


> Shot some tonight in aperture priority and I loved it  set my aperture and adjusted EC to -3 and was nailing the exposure I wanted.



That is a typo right? You meant -.3 as in 1/3?

Joe


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## AlexGavillan (Aug 14, 2018)

Ysarex said:


> AlexGavillan said:
> 
> 
> > Shot some tonight in aperture priority and I loved it  set my aperture and adjusted EC to -3 and was nailing the exposure I wanted.
> ...


My camera shows it as -/+.3 for EC (Nikon D3400) depending on which way I go. 

Link for reference: Nikon | Imaging Products | Digitutor | D3300


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## birdbonkers84 (Aug 17, 2018)

Aperture Priority for Wildlife

Manual or Aperture for Landscapes 

Manual for Astro


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## Peeb (Aug 19, 2018)

Wildlife- M (1/1000 and f/8) with auto ISO
Landscapes- A (to start- might switch to M after a few test pics)
Portraits- A with flash- tho M is fine too
Astro-photography- M
Snapshots or family gatherings- full auto (often).


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## Bear Dale (Aug 19, 2018)

Mostly aperture priority and manual.


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## totoymoolah (Aug 25, 2018)

From Auto to AP to Manual then sweating hard then stick back to AP..


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## Fred von den Berg (Sep 12, 2018)

Mostly aperture priority, sometimes manual, occasionally full automatic, more rarely shutter priority.


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## Solarflare (Sep 20, 2018)

Aperture priority. My main subject is people and thus I usually shoot them wide open.

I also use manual or shutter priority sometimes.


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## Dean_Gretsch (Sep 20, 2018)

Usually aperture priority when using the normal lenses, but manual when shooting macro with the Lensbaby.


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## photoflyer (Sep 20, 2018)

I shoot mostly on a 6D Mark II.  I almost always shoot in aperture priority but there is a caveat.  First,  I also normally shoot in Auto ISO mode which on this camera provides the ability to set a minimum shutter speed (normally 1000 or 2000 for action) and a maximum ISO.   So for action, or with a long lens, I am able to set the minimum speed to freeze the shot/handle camera shake so that I can adjust aperture for depth of field or sharpness.

Of course I can see through view finder how camera reacts to the aperture I set and go to manual mode if I do not like the results.


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## zulu42 (Sep 20, 2018)

I'm stuck in a rut of shooting manual


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## ac12 (Oct 4, 2018)

I thought I replied . . .

I use all of them (P,S,A,M), but I do NOT use Auto.
- Which mode I use depends on what and where I am shooting.  Each mode has a purpose.
- I do not use Auto, because it puts the AF into closest subject mode, and the closest object is usually NOT my subject.


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## Derrel (Oct 4, 2018)

Lately I have been shooting in stealth mode...I snap, then continue walking.


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## bhop (Oct 9, 2018)

If my camera isn't fully manual (I usually use a Leica or other vintage Nikon with no auto functions) then i'll use aperture priority mostly, unless i'm shooting street or racing where shutter speed is more critical, then i'd use shutter priority, then adjust the settings as needed with exposure lock button or compensation dials.


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## RacePhoto (Oct 30, 2018)

Manual shutter and exposure, AF Tracking on.

Guessing where something is going to happen is also important?

porsche trap surfing web — Postimage.org

Problem is, sometimes I'm slow shutter for panning, and something fast happens? Or I see something starting and just shoot...

FV start upside down web — Postimage.org

Edited to links instead of images.


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## smoke665 (Oct 30, 2018)

Outside I'm generally in P. On a Pentax it's a hyper mode that allows me to change to any other mode instantly with a touch of a finger, and back to square one with the green button. Inside with studio lights it's full manual.


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