# Tamron SP 150-600mm F/5-6.3 Di VC USD Problem



## K9Kirk (Jun 13, 2019)

I recently bought a Tamron SP 150-600mm F/5-6.3 Di VC USD for my Canon T6 camera and I found that it has trouble focusing @ big zooms. The lens will either jump around, focusing on one thing then jump to another and back and forth as though it's confused or it will focus on an object close to what I'm taking a picture of, rendering it a little out of focus and you can't tell until the picture is processed or it just won't focus at all depending on the situation it seems. E.G. Bird in flight 100 meters or less coming toward me, lens @ 500-600mm zoom and it won't focus at all or jumps around in focus. Now I'm taking hits for bad, slightly out of focus pictures and I want that to change.

I was told that this is normal behavior with a long focal length. I feel that's probably true, it seems to make sense but can this be confirmed by anyone with the same lens or a professional background in photography. Is my only option to focus manually on such big zooms? It's hard to focus well on moving subjects, especially when you only have a few seconds or less to do it and the focus keeps changing because they're coming toward you. Thanks for any input!


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## Soocom1 (Jun 13, 2019)

I cant answer specifically if its the lens, but my now deceased 35-350 L lens did the same thing. 

I would hunt for a focus point and many times I was so frustrated that I would switch to manual and shoot that way.


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## zulu42 (Jun 13, 2019)

What AF mode are you using?


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## RowdyRay (Jun 13, 2019)

Make sure you have the camera set for single af point. The center will do. That way you eliminate the camera try to choose.

Second, make sure you have it in ai servo mode. Continuous shooting. Set the shutter 1600-2000. F10, ISO auto. 

There could be a front or back focusing issue, but give this a try first.


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## K9Kirk (Jun 13, 2019)

zulu42 said:


> What AF mode are you using?



I'm using center weighted average w/ ai servo.


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## K9Kirk (Jun 13, 2019)

RowdyRay said:


> Make sure you have the camera set for single af point. The center will do. That way you eliminate the camera try to choose.
> 
> Second, make sure you have it in ai servo mode. Continuous shooting. Set the shutter 1600-2000. F10, ISO auto.
> 
> There could be a front or back focusing issue, but give this a try first.



I am using center weighted and ai servo along with continuous shooting and camera set to "DAYLIGHT" but I haven't tried the shutter and aper that high. I will try that with the ISO set to auto and see if that helps, thanks!


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## zulu42 (Jun 13, 2019)

center weighted average I believe has to do with your metering.
As @RowdyRay said, get that body in single point AF. It's imperative for birds.
I shoot at a minimum of 1/800 for a stationary bird at 600mm, minimum of 1/1250 for a large slow bird in flight.
Turn off your VC when your shutter speed is above 1/1000 and see if that has an effect on sharpness.


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## weepete (Jun 13, 2019)

Well I have this lens and it can jump about a bit during focusing, I find I need to change the focus speed in the custom funtions to get the best out of it, though I'm not sure if the T6 has that as an option.

I've went back to using the multi focus points for birds in flight though I do switch between AF points regularly. 

Long lenses have a bit of a learning curve to use and it could be a few things causing blurred pictures. Can you post an example?


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## K9Kirk (Jun 13, 2019)

weepete said:


> Well I have this lens and it can jump about a bit during focusing, I find I need to change the focus speed in the custom funtions to get the best out of it, though I'm not sure if the T6 has that as an option.
> 
> I've went back to using the multi focus points for birds in flight though I do switch between AF points regularly.
> 
> Long lenses have a bit of a learning curve to use and it could be a few things causing blurred pictures. Can you post an example?



There are a few pics under Nature & Wildlife titled, "Birds On The Move." The first pic isn't so bad but the others show how the camera focused on something in the foreground. I just read an article and it said that many times with AF if there isn't much contrast between the subject and it's surrounding the AF won't know what to lock onto so I'm thinking there's a bit of that going on, depending on the picture/surroundings. there are some pics that seemed to have plenty of contrast for "lock on" but the lens locks onto the wrong thing. I've been using AI Servo which is suppose to be for moving objects but it isn't working so well. I'm going to switch over to the Single AF and see if that makes a difference and locks on the whatever is centered.


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## weepete (Jun 13, 2019)

Ok, I see what you are on about now. As Braineack pointed out your shutter speed is way too slow, the thing is that long focal lengths really ampilfy any motion blur. Second thing you'll need to realise is that with any bird in flight photograhy you're going to have a lot of misses. Of you can get a 1% keeper rate you'll be doing ok.

I'm happier at 1/500th at 600mm with VR on, really I'm looking to get 1600th or ideally 2000th/sec when I'm at 600mm with VR off though I would shoot stationary animals at 1/250th if I'm forced to. 

Our lens isn't the sharpest, but you can't expect it to perform like a 600mm f4 prime, mine is definately acceptably sharp though heavy cropping can take a toll. 

Thankfully there's an easy way to tell, just stick it on a tripod and find a stationary subject (like not even moving in a slight breeze) and see if you can hit focus on it. I used a dandilion sticking out of our patio when I did mine (it was fine). After that I got a large level with a measurement gauge on it and propped it up at an angle at took a shot at 600mm on a tripod, mine was pretty spot on so I had to concede it was my technique.

So, what I do is hit the focus button when the bird is in the central focal point then try and track with it with the extended ones. Bear in mind that even at 600mm if the bird is small the camera may miss focus anyway. Try stopping down to f8 as well. But I suspect you are having more of a techniqe issue.


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## dxqcanada (Jun 13, 2019)

Hmm, maybe your T6 aint't keeping up with the lens ?
This is @coastalconn with a different camera ... video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=H3Zdpzze_fk


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## Dean_Gretsch (Jun 13, 2019)

dxqcanada said:


> Hmm, maybe your T6 aint't keeping up with the lens ?
> This is @coastalconn with a different camera ... video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=H3Zdpzze_fk



Lol, No one should be compared to coastalconn...anyone that knows his work will tell you he is exceptional and has no equal with bird photography.


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## dxqcanada (Jun 13, 2019)

Yes, but who better to ask about this lens ... I remember the numerous times he has posted about the lenses he has tried to use.


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## RowdyRay (Jun 13, 2019)

I was trying to type that from my phone. That should have read, 1200-2000. You get the idea. As @zulu42 pointed out, it depends on the bird and situation. They say you should have the shutter 2 times the focal length of the lens. So I'm usually somewhere in there for BIF. Lower for stationary birds. It's been said that the VC should be off when over 1000. Forget sometimes and it doesn't seem to make a difference. But, I'm also hand holding it. Everything I've read says it's more of an issue when stabilizing it. Like on a tripod or monopod. Play around with it. 

I also have this lens and have been shooting with it almost daily for the last 4 months. Here's what I've learned. No, it's not a 600mm f4 prime. Lol. But.....with practice, you can get some damn nice photos. 

ISO: A well known member suggested auto. So that's where I set it. Let the camera figure that out. At least, at first. Once you figure out the other stuff, then change it. I can now. 

Metering: That same member suggested "spot metering". That's where it stays. 

Aperture: Wide open it's not very sharp. f10 seems to be the sweet spot at 600mm. At least for me. You can try higher, but it really depends on the light. 

AF Points: I've had no luck with multiple auto focus points. The camera will choose what it wants. When shooting a great blue heron, (a long bird) it may choose the legs. The face will surely be out of focus. Single point auto focus puts you in control. But, it comes with a price. You have to put that point on the bird. Before or after it, that's on you, not the lens or camera. 

Practice...practice...practice.


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## RowdyRay (Jun 13, 2019)

dxqcanada said:


> Hmm, maybe your T6 aint't keeping up with the lens ?
> This is @coastalconn with a different camera ... video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=H3Zdpzze_fk



Wondered about that too. He would be best to ask.


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## coastalconn (Jun 13, 2019)

Saw I was summoned

 Reading through the thread, My first instinct is the AF system in the T6 just isn't up to task at 600mm and F6.3.  The 150-600 G1 generally reports F5.6 I believe, but is still optically a F6.3 and that might just be a touch too much for the camera itself.  When I had the G1 I mostly shot it with the D7100 and had no problem keeping up with birds.  Tamron 150-600 G1 Samples you will notice I also had very good light in many of these shots that helps to pick up the bird.

I have also speculated for awhile that Tamron does not play as nicely with Canon as it does with Nikon.  The OP may also just need more practice to get the most out of the combo.  See how it does tracking gulls around a blue sky to start.  AI servo is a must and a minimum of 1/1600th shutter speed.  I shoot much faster most of the time.


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## K9Kirk (Jun 13, 2019)

weepete said:


> Ok, I see what you are on about now. As Braineack pointed out your shutter speed is way too slow, the thing is that long focal lengths really ampilfy any motion blur. Second thing you'll need to realise is that with any bird in flight photograhy you're going to have a lot of misses. Of you can get a 1% keeper rate you'll be doing ok.
> 
> I'm happier at 1/500th at 600mm with VR on, really I'm looking to get 1600th or ideally 2000th/sec when I'm at 600mm with VR off though I would shoot stationary animals at 1/250th if I'm forced to.
> 
> ...



What Braineack and I both noticed is that the lens is focusing in front of objects (foreground). I did some research and found out that most people don't know to calibrate their new lens. I think you were eluding to doing that with your method of focusing on a stationary object, etc. I never calibrated mine so what I'm going to do is try what you suggested to check the focus, then if need be I'll check the settings recommended previously as part of my process of elimination and if nothing helps I'm going to get a calibration tool and check my calibration.


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## K9Kirk (Jun 13, 2019)

coastalconn said:


> Saw I was summoned
> 
> Reading through the thread, My first instinct is the AF system in the T6 just isn't up to task at 600mm and F6.3.  The 150-600 G1 generally reports F5.6 I believe, but is still optically a F6.3 and that might just be a touch too much for the camera itself.  When I had the G1 I mostly shot it with the D7100 and had no problem keeping up with birds.  Tamron 150-600 G1 Samples you will notice I also had very good light in many of these shots that helps to pick up the bird.
> 
> I have also speculated for awhile that Tamron does not play as nicely with Canon as it does with Nikon.  The OP may also just need more practice to get the most out of the combo.  See how it does tracking gulls around a blue sky to start.  AI servo is a must and a minimum of 1/1600th shutter speed.  I shoot much faster most of the time.



I think you're right. More than once in good light I've pointed at a bird in flight and it wouldn't even try to focus, nothing at all. Some of the pictures I took were with the camera in AI Servo and it focused on something in the foreground that was close to the subject or even ten or so meters in front at 600mm or less. The times that it wouldn't focus at all is when the bird was either coming almost straight at me so I strongly suspect the AI Servo couldn't detect any movement or it blended with it's surroundings and didn't know what to focus on. One shot auto focus probably would've worked better for those scenarios. I'll mess around with it some more and see what happens. Thanks for your input!


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## K9Kirk (Jun 13, 2019)

weepete said:


> Ok, I see what you are on about now. As Braineack pointed out your shutter speed is way too slow, the thing is that long focal lengths really ampilfy any motion blur. Second thing you'll need to realise is that with any bird in flight photograhy you're going to have a lot of misses. Of you can get a 1% keeper rate you'll be doing ok.
> 
> I'm happier at 1/500th at 600mm with VR on, really I'm looking to get 1600th or ideally 2000th/sec when I'm at 600mm with VR off though I would shoot stationary animals at 1/250th if I'm forced to.
> 
> ...



I just did a quick test to check the focus and everything seems ok. I focused on the rope in the middle of the pic and it looked sharp in the view finder and just as sharp in the processed picture. Coastalconn and some others think the problem may be with my camera not being up to the task of focusing well at long zooms and I think they're absolutely right because that's just how it acts although it has zoomed ok in certain situations where I think the camera could actually detect movement and focus on the main subject. From what I read just a little while ago if your subject is about the same tone/color of it's surrounding and there is little to no contrast between them the camera will be confused as to what to focus on. Anyway, here's that test pic I took. F8, 1/2000, Auto ISO (@ ISO 6400).


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## K9Kirk (Jun 13, 2019)

RowdyRay said:


> I was trying to type that from my phone. That should have read, 1200-2000. You get the idea. As @zulu42 pointed out, it depends on the bird and situation. They say you should have the shutter 2 times the focal length of the lens. So I'm usually somewhere in there for BIF. Lower for stationary birds. It's been said that the VC should be off when over 1000. Forget sometimes and it doesn't seem to make a difference. But, I'm also hand holding it. Everything I've read says it's more of an issue when stabilizing it. Like on a tripod or monopod. Play around with it.
> 
> I also have this lens and have been shooting with it almost daily for the last 4 months. Here's what I've learned. No, it's not a 600mm f4 prime. Lol. But.....with practice, you can get some damn nice photos.
> 
> ...



I use a monopod and I may've had my VC turned on for some pics but I remember thinking about that at some point and turned it off. I'm going to try the single point AF, I've always used it in the past and had better luck with it, even with moving subjects. Probably because I follow them well enough it focuses quick and that's all I need for a second or two. Thanks for your input!


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## K9Kirk (Jun 13, 2019)

Question now is, do I get a new camera and if so which would be the next step up in models that would tame this crazy lens?


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## RVT1K (Jun 14, 2019)

In response to the question of buying a new camera...YES!! Nothing beats new toys! 

But, more seriously, if you well and truly feel held back by your equipment, that is the time to upgrade.


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## K9Kirk (Jun 14, 2019)

RVT1K said:


> In response to the question of buying a new camera...YES!! Nothing beats new toys!
> 
> But, more seriously, if you well and truly feel held back by your equipment, that is the time to upgrade.



Agreed and what's disappointing is my new equipment was suppose to make things better. With my truck and motorcycle in my "amazon garage", when shopping for parts amazon will tell me if something fits or works with either. I wish it did that with cameras and lenses and told you more than whether it fits. If it said it may work a little wonky with my camera I might not've bought it.


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## RVT1K (Jun 14, 2019)

That's a tough one. There are just so many possible combinations of third-party lenses and different camera bodies. 

And on top of all that the firmware in the particular camera or lens may change throughout the lifetime of either. Minor firmware changes can cause huge problems. So what used to work may not with a later edition or the opposite could also happen. 

I recently bought a Tamron 300 f/2.8 and a 2x tele-converter and I'll be honest and say that I didn't really give any thought to weather the combination would work well or not with my cameras. Fortunately it all seems fine. 

But perhaps yours is a lesson we all could learn from? I know hindsight is 20-20 but I suspect doing some searching on the web about compatibility issues with that camera body/lens combo may have turned up something.


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## K9Kirk (Jun 14, 2019)

dxqcanada said:


> Hmm, maybe your T6 aint't keeping up with the lens ?
> This is @coastalconn with a different camera ... video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=H3Zdpzze_fk



After reading a number of the posts in that video I get the impression that the lens works better with Nikon cameras than Canon. I'm seriously considering just returning it and use the money towards a good Canon 100-400. If I buy a new Canon camera it may act the same way, still. UGH!


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## RVT1K (Jun 14, 2019)

Or you could buy the D3 that I want to sell.....


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## coastalconn (Jun 14, 2019)

K9Kirk said:


> Question now is, do I get a new camera and if so which would be the next step up in models that would tame this crazy lens?


Conventional wisdom always says lens first, however if you want to get serious about wildlife the 150-600 G1 is perfectly capable to learn and grow with.  The T6 will seriously hold you back with FPS and AF system.  If you are on a super tight budget, consider the original 7D.  They can be had for peanuts and by the time you are really ready to upgrade there may be another, better model than the 7dm2.  The year I shot Canon did not go well for me and the only camera that I really liked was the 1D4.  It was in-between full frame and crop frame, very fast with a good buffer and I preferred the AF over the 7dm2.  But they are all getting long in the tooth at this point.  But I really can't say how important the camera actually is in BIF photography.


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## K9Kirk (Jun 14, 2019)

coastalconn said:


> K9Kirk said:
> 
> 
> > Question now is, do I get a new camera and if so which would be the next step up in models that would tame this crazy lens?
> ...



Agreed! I just got finished with some reading about how none of the cameras in the Canon Rebel line (mine) have AF micro adjustment and that their AF detection system is not designed for such large zooms. It's no wonder my camera has the trouble it does focusing. Well, it's not totally bad, it has and does take some decent pictures and not all cameras take the best pics every time so with that in mind I'll probably keep using it until either the price on the D7 Mark II comes down some or I get fed up with too many out of focus shots and say to hell with it, whichever comes first, ha! Thanks for your input, much appreciated!


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## zulu42 (Jun 14, 2019)

Yeah, K9, you're posting some great shots with that combo. If you learn and practice to get the best possible out of what you have now, that knowledge will only help when you do upgrade.
I shoot the 150-600G2 on a D800 and struggle to get it sharp. Some days I can fill my card with sharp images, and the next day no luck. I spent an hour up on a boom lift last week shooting baby hawks in their nest. Came home with a couple hundred blurry images. No keepers. Not even sure why. But the thrill is in the hunt, too.


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