# Can I use Monolight setup w/Nikon D3100?



## Penman61 (Apr 23, 2013)

I can't figure out if I can set up my Nikon D3100 with a wired connection to one or more Monolights.  This is for indoor/studio work (examples of my work here.)  

It probably goes without saying that I don't know anything about working with/hooking up a Monolight set-up, so any basic help appreciated. 

- Tom


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## Mach0 (Apr 23, 2013)

Wireless triggers or PC adaptor


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## Derrel (Apr 23, 2013)

*Nikon AS-15*...."accessory shoe"...model 15 I suppose...it slides into the hotshoe and provides the PC connection for the wired cord you wish to use. Flashzebra.com sells generics. I've had one for years, since I shot corded studio flash from about 1986 to 2006. I actually preferred using the AS-15 and having the PC cord hooked up at the pentaprism, rather than on the left front side of the body!!!


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## tirediron (Apr 23, 2013)

I'm curious; why do you specifically want a wired connection?  Most people are looking for just the opposite.


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## Penman61 (Apr 23, 2013)

Thanks, Derrel and Mach0

Tirediron, using actual cables sounded less complicated (and expensive) than wireless.  This setup would only ever be used in my studio, where managing cables isn't (yet) a problem.  

But as I said, I don't know what I'm talking about, so perhaps wireless, if not much more expensive/complicated, would work for me.  What are the wireless advantages besides cablelessness?


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## Josh66 (Apr 23, 2013)

Penman61 said:


> What are the wireless advantages besides cablelessness?



You have to admit that this alone is a pretty big advantage...  Nothing to trip over and knock over a light stand, your light placement won't be limited by the length of your cable, etc...

If you need more advantages than that, the first one that comes to my mind is that a transmitter and a few receivers will occupy far less space in your kit.  Faster set-up/clean-up.  Nearly unlimited range...


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## tirediron (Apr 23, 2013)

Penman61 said:


> Thanks, Derrel and Mach0
> 
> Tirediron, using actual cables sounded less complicated (and expensive) than wireless. This setup would only ever be used in my studio, where managing cables isn't (yet) a problem.
> 
> But as I said, I don't know what I'm talking about, so perhaps wireless, if not much more expensive/complicated, would work for me. What are the wireless advantages besides cablelessness?


You can probably pull a couple of Yongnuo or Cactus V5 triggers off of eBay or Amazon for <$50...  Personally, having shot wired, I LOVE the freedom of radio triggers.


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## Penman61 (Apr 23, 2013)

Those do sound like significant advantages, Josh & tirediron.  Thanks for responding.

What are the basic hardware components required for a wireless setup?


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## tirediron (Apr 23, 2013)

This is all  you need. (Note, that's Amazon.ca; prices are likely lower in the US).


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## Josh66 (Apr 23, 2013)

Basically, you need a transmitter for the camera and a receiver for each light.  A transceiver is both a transmitter and a receiver.  You might want that if you wanted to only trigger one light with the camera, and have that light trigger the other lights.  Personally, I'm not really all that sure of the specific cases where you would want both a transmitter and a receiver in one unit...


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## Penman61 (Apr 23, 2013)

Thanks again, Josh and tirediron.  This is enough to get me started properly.  If you know of any other online resources for using Monolights for the kind of photos I linked in my original post, that would be great.

Really appreciate the help.


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## Derrel (Apr 23, 2013)

The Paramount brand of PC synch cords are without peer. I had ONE, from 1986 to 2006. One, big, single, heavy-duty studio cord. It lasted two decades. Paramount is a really GOOD cord maker. I had some lightweight, smaller 3- foot and 10-foot, and one 20-footer. Still have those, and they work too, but the Paramount heavy-duty cord was da bomb....then one day it broke...and I investigated Pocket Wizards. Which have their own uses.

But the thing is...you only need to trip one monolight via sync cord, and then the others will trigger via their built-in photo-optical slave triggers...

And when you trigger with a PC Cord, there is only ONE thing to trouble shoot. Not 2,4,6,8,12,or 16 batteries....not 1,2,3or 4 dip-switches/channel indicators...just "the cord". Flash failed to fire??? Ummm, cord's not connected. Never any dinking around with cheap electronic devices that should work, that ought to work, that are s_upposed to function. _With a quality PC cord plugged in at both ends, if it don't work...it's broken!!! So, in that sense, I spent 20 years, happy with knowing that when the flash didn't fire, the PC cord was not hooked up.


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## Josh66 (Apr 23, 2013)

I think the main thing you'll need to make sure of is that the receiver is compatible with your monolights (as far as what type of connection the light has to accept a receiver).  That should be fairly simple to sort out...


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## Penman61 (Apr 23, 2013)

Thanks, everyone, for sharing your expertise.


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