# Printing on metal



## Niffer

So I've been toying around with the idea of printing on metal, so far all I've been told is to try paint on photo emulsion. I tried this on aluminum, steel, and copper. I sanded down each piece and painted on the chemical then let it dry, i then exposed it and lastly placed it into developer. To my not so big of a surprise the emulsion came right off. After cursing the photo god I can here...
Does anyone know how to print on metal? 
I will literately worship the ground you walk on :hail:


----------



## oldnavy170

Sorry I can't help you in this department.


----------



## gomexz

oldnavy170 said:


> Sorry I can't help you in this department.


Then why post at all?

try developing it normally and then take it to a vinyl shop and have them make it with vinyl and then put that on the metal.


----------



## ScottS

gomexz said:


> Then why post at all?
> 
> try developing it normally and then take it to a vinyl shop and have them make it with vinyl and then put that on the metal.


 
Why post to ask her why she posted at all? :lmao:

I agree with him, I tried doing this once for a photo project... and failed miserably.


----------



## ThomThomsk

There was an article in Black & White Photography magazine (the UK one) about a guy who makes tintypes and has a fantastic series on cowboys. This is a 19th century wetplate process that is probably more trouble than you want, but I recall that the finished images have to be varnished to protect them - perhaps that's something you could try.

Google tells me that he is called Robb Kendrick and on his website there are videos in which he demonstrates the whole process. Click 'tintype portfolio' and then 'the process' -

http://www.robbkendrick.com/


----------



## JC1220

Here are instructions and info on Tintype/Collodian process:

http://www.alternativephotography.com/process_tintype.html


----------



## Helen B

Try Rockland Liquid Light or Ag-Plus, subbed with two coats of polyurethane. Rockland's website has information: http://www.rockaloid.com/

Best,
Helen


----------



## Niffer

Thanks for the ideas guys! if it works I'll post pictures


----------



## oldnavy170

gomexz said:


> Then why post at all?
> 
> try developing it normally and then take it to a vinyl shop and have them make it with vinyl and then put that on the metal.


 

Thats because people like to know that someone is listening even if they don't have any answers.  Got anymore questions??


----------



## usobbt

Try going to booksmartstudio.com.  They have aluminum sheets that are compatible with ink jet printers, as long as it's a "J" type feed, which is what most are.  I have an Epson 1280 and can print on aluminum.  The down side is that you're limited to 8.5 x 10 sheets at .005 thickness.  Anything larger has to be thicker and anything thicker needs a straight through type printer.  You can also try inkaid.com, but I think they get their supplies from booksmartstudio.


----------



## ponkan

I would try adding a layer of gelatin on the metal before coating with liquid light. http://www.alternativephotography.com/process_dryplate.html has a process that describes gelatin and chrome alum (hardener) on glass plates -- no real reason you can't do it on other surfaces.

The problem with collodion processes (wet-plate and tintype/ambrotype) is that tintypes and ambrotypes (tintype is on tin, ambrotype is on glass) is that they are direct-positive processes, which means you need to shoot the original scene. You only get one copy since it's a unique process, and you need to coat, sensitize, expose, and process the plate while the collodion is wet.


----------



## Mike Jordan

Another reason to post is that it brings the thread back up to the top so it doesn't get buried and forgotten in a day or two. 

One technique I've been praticing with is embedding an image inside glass.  The image is printed on clear photo paper (like a decal) put on or between glass and then this is cooked at about 1470 degrees.  The image turns sepia and you  can get different results from the glass and image, but with the right image it's pretty neat looking.  I've done two that I put inbetween the glass and then melted the glass around it. 

Mike


----------



## darrenseward

You can always use inkAID Clear Gloss TYpe II.


----------



## melanchoii

The problem with paint on photo emulsion is the same as car paint, you have to prime the metal first otherwise the emulsion will not stick


----------



## Big

Metal Prints, Photographs Printed on Aluminum ? Bay Photo Lab
I saw this ad in my Outdoor Photographer magazine. Hope it helps


----------



## Count Elmsley

Try here - you first scan your film to CD, then make an inkjet print.

You soak this in water and then the image slides off the top like a transfer.

It will adhere nicely to any kind of material, including metal.

Alan

www.lazertran.com


----------



## Man_ofSTEEL

Hey Niffer,
You need to find a local printer that uses a flatbed printer w/ UV curing inks.
In Chicago both Digital Imaging Resource(ask for Al Cerkin) and ColorIMAGE (ask for  Mickey)
can do printing directly to "my" steel (I've been using 21 guage galvanized steel- both flat& w/ a formed wdge/lip)

Some images are OK if they are *not *first backed-up with a  coating of white ink- then your image.
Other images may require that.......currently I'm using some of my Industrial urban Landscape images
(Chicago's got lots of areas/sides of town that appear Rust-Belt-like)

My Steel Furniture that I  design and build is what led to my exploration of wanting to combine my favorite material-
Steel- with my other passion - Photography!
Next on my list is combining my Light Fixtures with some of my images as well....

Finding a good, understanding printer is helpful- avoid knuckleheads that suggest _"....why not just print to vinyl and apply it to the steel? "_:thumbdown:
A printer that has a Rho Printer or a high end HP is a good place to start.
Use key Words of "Direct Flatbed Printing to any substrate"-
and then you should find your printer.
Or- feel free to call my above suggestions.!
Happy New Year!
Randall- aka The Man of Steel


----------



## unpopular

Prime the metal with several thin coats of clear spray adhesive and use Rockland Liquid Light. I've known lots of people who have had success doing this.

I've played with a LOT of other theoretical ideas, some pretty far fetched. PM me if you want to discuss.


----------

