# ariel photography



## Tennessee Landscape (Mar 1, 2008)

I may have the opportunity to do some ariel photography...I'll be shooting from about 1500 to 2000 feet trying to capture property.

Any suggestions on what type of lenses are used for these types of shot and at what focal length......

What time of day wouldyou shoot these shos as well?


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## AspiringArchitect (Mar 1, 2008)

When I did it, I took a 70-300 lens and it proved far to big. I was a little higher than you, but I was also trying to get pictures of the whole city.  For individual properties, i suppose that lens would work out good.  

Tips:
1. Focus manually or use the AF-lock
2. Go around noon when there are the least shadows.
3. Go on a day with NO CLOUDS!  A bunch of my shots were crap because shadows from clouds.
4. Bring 2 lenses just in case.
5. Have a backup camera if possible.
6. Have fun and ask them if you can fly it on the way back.


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## Tennessee Landscape (Mar 1, 2008)

Thanks, ....I was thinking that an overcast day would be good so there were no shadows, what do you think about that?


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## Socrates (Mar 1, 2008)

Tennessee Landscape said:


> I may have the opportunity to do some ariel photography...I'll be shooting from about 1500 to 2000 feet trying to capture property.
> 
> Any suggestions on what type of lenses are used for these types of shot and at what focal length......
> 
> What time of day wouldyou shoot these shos as well?



Get an aircraft with a high wing and take the door off (but buckle up really really tight).


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## Tennessee Landscape (Mar 1, 2008)

Socrates said:


> Get an aircraft with a high wing and take the door off (but buckle up really really tight).


 

sounds like good advice........


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## mrodgers (Mar 2, 2008)

Personally, I would do it so much cheaper.  RC airplane and smaller camera.

I've seen some extremely stunning shots from RC airplanes.  For the price of a few hours in a real airplane, you can have all the equipment needed.


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## Christie Photo (Mar 4, 2008)

Tennessee Landscape said:


> ....I was thinking that an overcast day would be good so there were no shadows, what do you think about that?



ehhhh....  I've ended up with some really lack-luster images that way.  I suggest early morning when the sun is still low in the sky.  That will show more "texture" and make for a smoother ride.

-Pete


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## Christie Photo (Mar 4, 2008)

mrodgers said:


> I've seen some extremely stunning shots from RC airplanes.



I've seen some extremely stunnig shots...  right here on TPF.  Does AIRIC still come around?

-Pete


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## LaFoto (Mar 4, 2008)

Christie Photo said:


> Does AIRIC still come around?


 
No longer that often...


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## AspiringArchitect (Mar 4, 2008)

I was advised that the lighting would be better on a sunny day.  

Oh and I shot through the glass the whole time.  it wasnt that bad, just bring some windex to clean it first.


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## rooky (Mar 28, 2008)

I am a professional aerial photgrapher.  contact me if you need some help.  Thanks.


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## aliaks (Jun 8, 2008)

you have to think about shadows (do it at 12:00pm, clear sky). take the wide angle lens (the widest). I would love to try a fish eye also


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## notelliot (Jun 12, 2008)

ask your pilot to drop down to 500-800ft and shoot wide. but if you're over a heavily populated area, might not be a go..

having the door on your side taken off would also be very advantageous. first time is fun!


my dad used to fly for people that did this. he has good stories haha.


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## Ben-71 (Jun 16, 2008)

Tennessee Landscape 
I may have the opportunity to do some ariel photography...
I'll be shooting from about 1500 to 2000 feet trying to capture 
property.
Any suggestions on what type of lenses are used for these 
types of shot and at what focal length......
What time of day would you shoot these shots as well?​​I see mixed advice here, some good and some bad.

The focal length depends on what property size you want to cover.
Approximately*:*
Per 1000ft (315 m) altitude, each 10 degrees of lens viewing angle 
cover about 175ft. (55 m ).​ 
Do NOT do it at noon, or under overcast. It'll look dull.
Early morning or afternoon is much better for getting shadows, contrast 
and nice colors.​ 
If you can, take a look at the location(s) in advance, on the ground, 
and decide from which direction(s) you'll take the aerials. 
This will dictate the time of day  morning or afternoon.​ 
If you may take a compass, and check the approximate direction, you 
can later tell the pilot his approach direction in degrees - a language 
that may work better with him/her. ​ 
Clouds may cast disturbing shadows.
If there's haze, postpone the work.​ 
Check the camera strap (connections) in advance. Make sure that 
the camera is strapped to you when you lean out. 
Don't forget backup camera strap...) 
You don't want it to crush someone's flowers... ​ 
Be aware of glare - sometimes there's something that glares strongly 
down there, or fix it later on PS.​ 
Taking off the door is nice, but if you can just leave the window open, 
it's good enough. 
In any case, I'd avoid shooting through a window, even if it's clean. 
It may cause distortions. ​Socrates​ 
Get an aircraft with a high wing and take the door off (but buckle up 
really really tight).​ ​Right. 
Or, just leave the window open and lean out. 
In any case, to prevent the aircraft's vibrations from affecting the camera, 
don't lean against the side of the aircraft.
*Let the seat be the only part of the aircraft that you touch with *
*your body.*​ 
Make sure that what you wear doesn't flap into your face, and that your
sleeves do not flap strongly.​ 
To reduce the aircraft's vibrations to the minimum 
Ask the pilot to side-slide, down, towards the "target", lowering the 
target-side wing, at low speed (lower throttle), in a landing-like approach 
(he can partly or fully lower the flaps to slow down.
This is the best way to take hand-held oblique photographs from a light
aircraft.​ 
Ask the pilot to lower to the minimum altitude allowed. ​ 
Use fast shutter speeds.
I use 1/500sec. or faster. Use the optically best aperture, which is 
typically around f/8. Adjust the ISO accordingly.​ 
I recommend taking the pics' at about 90 to 45 degrees towards the sun, 
so you get a bit of backlighting, but it depends on the characteristics of 
the subject.​ 
I'd also use a good quality UV filter. 
(B+W, Heliopan, Rodenstock, Hoya Pro)​ 
Good luck and enjoy.​


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