# New to macro | Want feedback please



## Ironlegs (Sep 11, 2014)

Hello everyone,

2 days ago i got my hands on my first macro lens CANON 100MM F/2.8 USM ( NO IS ) and i use a crop sensor canon 550d. I realised that i really like macro photography and that i really want to become good, so are there any tips and secrets i should know please ? Any feedback will really help.

I have really shaky hands, is there anything to be done about that ? I find it really hard to focus cause of that.
How about extension tubes so i can get close ups ? Is it even needed ?

1.



Look in those eyes... by Ironlegs Photography, on Flickr

2.



Spider Lair by Ironlegs Photography, on Flickr

3.



Test by Ironlegs Photography, on Flickr

4.



Bee ! by Ironlegs Photography, on Flickr


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## sscarmack (Sep 11, 2014)

When it comes to macro, I really have no advice or tips. As I don't do macro...

But I really like the #2, I like how the blues and greens clash together. And it looks extremely sharp and well focused.

The first one looks like a missed focus, or lack of depth.


Keep on shooting


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## sm4him (Sep 11, 2014)

I don't know anything about that particular lens; it's a true macro lens I assume? Not bad first efforts, particularly the first two.  Your DOF is way too shallow; I'd guess you're not using a small enough aperture (more about that below).  

I do a good bit of macro--I have a Tokina 100mm macro lens, and I also have extension tubes. I also have shaky hands, sometimes--something called nonessential hand tremors, which I think was doctor-speak for "you don't have Parkinson's or anything horrible, your hands just shake for no good reason sometimes." My dad and two aunts had Parkinson's, so it's always a concern of mine.

Anyway, the hand problem can be at least minimized. Here's some tips I can think of, just off the top of my head:

1. Use a tripod when possible. Of course, when chasing bugs and spiders with a macro lens, that's not always possible. But flowers, etc.--use the tripod!
2. Fast shutter speed helps to minimize the hand shake problem, but again, with macro, you also want a pretty small aperture (I typically use anywhere from f/8 to as high as f/22+) in order to get any depth of field at all--so if you're already at f/16, and then you use a high shutter speed, your ISO may be ridiculous.
3. Continuous shooting mode also helps. I find that if I shoot this way, and fire off two or three shots in rapid succession, my second shot is often sharper than the first.
4. Off-camera flash! Not only will it help the hand shake problem, but it will also improve your lighting and give your macro photos a bit more "pop."

Personally, I rarely ever use my extension tubes, and NEVER if I'm having the hand tremors. I find it MUCH more difficult to get good focus with them when my hands are shaking, than with the macro lens.


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## Ironlegs (Sep 11, 2014)

sm4him said:


> I don't know anything about that particular lens; it's a true macro lens I assume? Not bad first efforts, particularly the first two.  Your DOF is way too shallow; I'd guess you're not using a small enough aperture (more about that below).
> 
> I do a good bit of macro--I have a Tokina 100mm macro lens, and I also have extension tubes. I also have shaky hands, sometimes--something called nonessential hand tremors, which I think was doctor-speak for "you don't have Parkinson's or anything horrible, your hands just shake for no good reason sometimes." My dad and two aunts had Parkinson's, so it's always a concern of mine.
> 
> ...



Thanks for your feedback.

Seems like my hand shaking is not THAT bad...
I will keep your tips in mind and i will use them for sure !
Related to point 2, those were taken at f/5.6 speed was around 1/100 and iso 400... if i go to iso 800 i already got a lot of noise which i dont want, i was using my built in flash but i am getting batteries into a serious one, so i hope it will only get better.


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## ronlane (Sep 11, 2014)

Sharon, have you ever used the extension tubes with the macro lens? Is it even possible?


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## KenC (Sep 11, 2014)

ronlane said:


> Sharon, have you ever used the extension tubes with the macro lens? Is it even possible?



It is possible and I've done it on occasion, when I was tired of having so much DOF.  No, seriously, if the lens is focused at infinity you will get the same magnification you would get using the same tube on a 100 mm non-macro.  Basically, if you have 100mm of extension, you will get 1:1 with the lens set on infinity.  Then, if you focus closer you can get more.


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## sm4him (Sep 11, 2014)

ronlane said:


> Sharon, have you ever used the extension tubes with the macro lens? Is it even possible?



Oh yeah, it's possible, but as Ken says, man you end up with DOF about the width of a spider's nose! (and no, I don't think spiders actually HAVE noses, lol).  You also end up with the lens sitting on TOP of the object if you're careful! But you can also get some really good shots if you have the patience to do it right.


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## xzyragon (Sep 11, 2014)

I really liked the last one personally.  Composition plus the entire bee is in focus.  And the focal dropoff of the flower is awesome.


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## Overread (Sep 11, 2014)

You've a VERY Good start to macro! These look like great shots - and you've got a really nice style to them that gives them a touch of feeling and atmosphere. 


As for tips a few from me:

1) Some people find that a small amount of alcohol (glass of wine - and no not a huge glass) can help steady the hands/muscles a little.

2) Practice! 

3) Bracing yourself upon nearby objects/ground. Learning how to stance, how to brace and keeping an eye out for other ways to hold yourself.

4) Kneepads - yeah you'll look daft walking around in them, but if you're up and down on your knees for macro you'll find them a massive help on easing the pain you get in your knees (esp if you find you go down on a more rocky/hard surface). 

5) Practice!

6) Tripods help lots; but on the flipside they also slow you down a lot; so for bugs you're looking at cold morning bugs or some kind of lure (eg flower or sugar water*) that brings them in. You'll want a focusing rail and if you really get into I'd strongly suggest a Manfrotto Junior Geared head (don't let the junior fool you its a very solid head and ideal for macro work). 


*some people use honey, but honey from other hives can be poisonous to local bees


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## 480sparky (Sep 11, 2014)

ronlane said:


> Sharon, have you ever used the extension tubes with the macro lens? Is it even possible?



As long as there's not a electrical or mechanical issue, you can use tubes on 'pert near any lens.


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## Ironlegs (Sep 11, 2014)

Overread said:


> You've a VERY Good start to macro! These look like great shots - and you've got a really nice style to them that gives them a touch of feeling and atmosphere.
> 
> 
> As for tips a few from me:
> ...


A lot of great tips, thanks a lot !

Thanks for feedback everyone, in a few days i will probably finally have batteries in my flash so i will stop using the built-in one and hopefully bring some more interesting pictures ! Cant wait !


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## Overread (Sep 11, 2014)

On the subject of batteries, it might cost more initially, but get yourself a really good charging unit. Powerrex/Maha make some really good ones which let you charge each cell individually and also vary the charge rate. 

This means you can charge each battery and give it a trickle charge; leaving them to charge for several hours (overnight) means that you'll prolong their lifespan considerably.

Most batteries sold with chargers come with very cheap 30min/1hour charging units which, whilst they do work; often charge all the cells at once (ergo they don't stop when one battery is full) and many also just keep charging and discharging until you turn then off (not good for the battery). 
For something like flash batteries that are drained and recharged on a regular basis the quick chargers can quickly have a significant impact on the batteries performance. 


Note also get the batteries that come pre-charged; those units are (far as I know) all low discharge (hence why they can be sold pre-charged); they are ideal since you can put them in the flash (or a pack to keep spares for a days shoot) and leave them there for weeks; heck months. Even after a year they'll still hold a very significant block of their charge. 
Regular rechargeable batteries will drain out very quick; which means if you leave the flash a few days those (formerly) fully charged batteries inside will not give many shots before they die.


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## Fdee (Sep 12, 2014)

I have the same lens on a 50d and would not be without an off camera flash
Google macro photography flash units  and look at the images
If you dont want to run to the expense of dedicated units or ring flash you can do what I do
Use a flash bracket with an adjustable cold shoe and a flash (old or new) with a bounce head, buy a portable soft box and bend the flash to the lens head
Object to get the diffused light close to the subject
This gets you depth of field by being able to use small apertures at small iso plus it steadys shake
Word of warning dont use old flash units from the camera hot shoe as modern cameras are only 6v trigger voltage where as old flash's are upwards of 160v ( it will work but has the potential of frying some of your camera electronics) Check your manual my 50d has 240v from the pc socket but you could also use wireless triggers (cheap ones work but arnt as reliable as canon ones )
Extension tubes
Depending on what you want from your images
My rule of thumb for the biggest image without cropping is
100mm lens alone objects about 50mm
100mm lens + 38mm extension tube objects about 15mm (loss of a couple of stops from the lens alone ) dof very short Harder to hold steady but the flash helps out


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## IronMaskDuval (Sep 12, 2014)

When I shoot macro, I always bring my flash with me. I hold my camera on the right hand and the flash wherever I want the light with my left. Sometimes, I'll put the foot on and let it sit a bit away from arm's reach. That way, I can shoot f/9 - f/16. I hardly shoot macro anymore in nature unless I have nothing else better to do. Macro sees a lot better results from dead, cold or naturally slow specimens.


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