# Do you shoot in continous mode for action subject?



## tecboy (May 5, 2015)

The continuous mode seems very convenience while I was shooting the racing events.  However, it can eats a lot of spaces in my sd card and may not focus the subject correctly.


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## snowbear (May 5, 2015)

Not very often.  The D40 buffer fills up pretty quickly, especially when shooting raw.  I can generally keep up with what I'm shooting without S&P.


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## tirediron (May 5, 2015)

No.  Single shot almost exclusively.


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## lambertpix (May 5, 2015)

Typically Ai Focus, high-speed continuous.  Learn to shoot in short bursts -- like, 2-3 at a time, unless you happen to be tracking something really good.


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## BrickHouse (May 5, 2015)

I mostly shoot my fast-moving kids so usually continuous-high, fired in 2-3round bursts if I catch them moving as I'm taking the shot.


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## KmH (May 5, 2015)

> Do you shoot in continous [sic] mode for action subject?


Continuous focus mode? Yes.
Burst (continuous) shutter mode. Sometimes.


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## DarkShadow (May 5, 2015)

Continues focus yes high speed continues shooting yes again.Since I shoot birds in flight and on sticks and are not predictable, they can change directions in a blink.


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## tecboy (May 5, 2015)

KmH said:


> > Do you shoot in continous [sic] mode for action subject?
> 
> 
> Continuous focus mode? Yes.
> Burst (continuous) shutter mode. Sometimes.



I didn't know there is such a thing likes continuous focus mode.  I think my dslr has AI Servo mode.  Is that a same thing?


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## spiralout462 (May 5, 2015)

tecboy said:


> KmH said:
> 
> 
> > > Do you shoot in continous [sic] mode for action subject?
> ...



Yes. 

To answer the question in the OP, I leave mine on continuous mode.  If I want one picture I just press the shutter once.


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## D-B-J (May 5, 2015)

NAHH. The D800's buffer at 14bit lossless compressed raw and 4fps is not even worth it.  I typically shoot in CL or S and hope for the best. 

Jake


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## Vtec44 (May 5, 2015)

Continuous AF and fastest FPS.  I also shoot JPEG's only in this case.  I do bursts of 3 to avoid filling up the buffer way too quick.


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## Gary A. (May 5, 2015)

I typically shoot in a continuous mode, either three FPS or ten FPS. I wait for the peak of action to save buffer space.


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## wfooshee (May 6, 2015)

If your focus is single-servo, then only the first shot of a sequence is focused, and unless the distance doesn't change, following shots will drift out of focus.

I don't know about Canons, but Nikons also have a focus-priority selection, where you can tell the camera not to fire unless it has good focus, or that it fires when you press, regardless of focus detection. The good focus requirement will slow it down, maybe even prevent some shots altogether.


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## sashbar (May 6, 2015)

I almost never shoot in cont mode and sometimes regret. I need to do it more often, but forget about it.


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## DarkShadow (May 6, 2015)

I also have mine set up as AF-S single shot to focus priority.In AF-C  continues set to Release Priority and focus hold set to medium.  Sometime I use Center cross type with expanded 9 cross type or expanded 25 or just the center point depending on what I am shooting. On my K-3 I have 25 Cross type focus points out of 27 that come in handy. I shot this Osprey in continues focus and only using the Center Cross type Point and the Egret.




IMGP2167 by DarkShadow191145, on Flickr



IMGP2163 by DarkShadow191145, on Flickr


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## Braineack (May 6, 2015)

I use AF-C about 95% of the time.

misread:  I have my camera in CH mode 99% of the time as well, and will burst off If need be.  No reason not to if the situation calls for it.


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## fjrabon (May 6, 2015)

Focus: yes, basically always, combined with back button focusing. 

Frame rate: sometimes. But I only burst around the action I want to capture. I don't sit there and fire at max burst rate for more than a second at a time.


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## Rick50 (May 6, 2015)

I think you should read your camera manual. There are differences on how focusing works from camera to camera. I have a Canon 5D3 and some of the comments here sure don't apply to it.
I use AI Servo a lot as the camera will track a moving subject maintaining focus.


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## imagemaker46 (May 6, 2015)

Yes, and use it when I need it.


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## wfooshee (May 6, 2015)

Yeah, the terminology is different between Canon and Nikon. What Canon calls Single shot  is what Nikon calls single-servo (AF-S on the LCD) , and what Canon calls AI servo is what Nikon calls Continuous servo (AF-C.)

With either brand the first choice focuses when you half-press the shutter button and doesn't change focus until you release and re-press the button. The second choice focuses continuously while you hold the button down. If you're shooting action and the focus goes away during the sequence, you're probably on single-shot or single-servo.

That doesn't even begin to account for area selection. For action you want to start with a single focus point, so YOU select what the camera starts its focus on. If you have a multi-area, the camera decides, sometimes seemingly at random. It picks the sensor with the best focus, which may not be your subject.


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## ronlane (May 6, 2015)

imagemaker46 said:


> Yes, and use it when I need it.



Agreed. I use High speed continuous and use it occasionally. I've used it full out at times just to see and I've used it and take 1 frame to get what I wanted. Most of the time, I will shoot between 2 - 5 shots depending on the sport and the action.


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## bribrius (May 6, 2015)

KmH said:


> > Do you shoot in continous [sic] mode for action subject?
> 
> 
> Continuous focus mode? Yes.
> Burst (continuous) shutter mode. Sometimes.


this


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## tecboy (May 6, 2015)

Rick50 said:


> I think you should read your camera manual. There are differences on how focusing works from camera to camera. I have a Canon 5D3 and some of the comments here sure don't apply to it.
> I use AI Servo a lot as the camera will track a moving subject maintaining focus.



I don't think you understand.  I have to track a very fast moving subject.  Last weekend, I was at the Mazda Raceway and standing near the racetrack.  These cars going 160 mph.  I have to get in focus first before I press all the way down the shutter button.  The cars are further away, and when the cars come close to me, I have to give it enough time to autofocus before I shoot.  I shoot about 3 frames at a time.  Many of the pictures are out of focus.


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## bribrius (May 6, 2015)

tecboy said:


> Rick50 said:
> 
> 
> > I think you should read your camera manual. There are differences on how focusing works from camera to camera. I have a Canon 5D3 and some of the comments here sure don't apply to it.
> ...


in nikon it is the 3d focus tracking mode. It works, sort of.


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## ronlane (May 6, 2015)

Tecboy, look at the manual about back button focusing. For me, it makes life a lot easier when shooting fast moving objects.


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## Vtec44 (May 6, 2015)

tecboy said:


> I don't think you understand.  I have to track a very fast moving subject.  Last weekend, I was at the Mazda Raceway and standing near the racetrack.  These cars going 160 mph.  I have to get in focus first before I press all the way down the shutter button.  The cars are further away, and when the cars come close to me, I have to give it enough time to autofocus before I shoot.  I shoot about 3 frames at a time.  Many of the pictures are out of focus.



Ahh Laguna Seca!  I've rode my sportbikes on that track before 

You can change the AF-C priority selection to put it on Focus Priority.  The camera will only take a shot when the camera it's confirmed that is focus (may not even be on the right subject  ).   You can also reduce the time where  Focus Tracking will lock.  It will track fast moving subjects a bit better.  Also, back button focus helps a lot since you don't have to hold the shutter 1/2 way down.


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## vintagesnaps (May 6, 2015)

It makes sense to use it for something like motor sports; I shoot hockey and focus manually (that's how I learned) but don't do much panning (but learned how to do that focusing manually too but not motor sports). It doesn't make sense to me to use it constantly, then it seems to just be sprayin' and prayin' (not that I haven't on occasion thanked the hockey 'gods'.)


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## Vtec44 (May 6, 2015)

I use it for ceremony and wedding reception.  IMHO, it's the photographer that will decide to spray and praying, not the focus or shooting mode


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## tecboy (May 6, 2015)

Vtec44 said:


> tecboy said:
> 
> 
> > I don't think you understand.  I have to track a very fast moving subject.  Last weekend, I was at the Mazda Raceway and standing near the racetrack.  These cars going 160 mph.  I have to get in focus first before I press all the way down the shutter button.  The cars are further away, and when the cars come close to me, I have to give it enough time to autofocus before I shoot.  I shoot about 3 frames at a time.  Many of the pictures are out of focus.
> ...



I need a canon translation!  Just kidding.  AF-C is the same as AF-ON?


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## ronlane (May 6, 2015)

Tecboy, you want AI Servo for Canon.

The AF-ON will focus and will be the button you customize for back button focus.


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## tecboy (May 6, 2015)

I did use AI servo for all panning shots.


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## ronlane (May 6, 2015)

I think the biggest help for you will be back button focus.  Keep in mind that it will take some getting used to but once you do it, I think you will like it.  Here is an article talking about how to set up for Canon's.


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## Vtec44 (May 6, 2015)

Oh you Canon people hahaha


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## Rick50 (May 6, 2015)

This seems to be more than  just a focus problem. Shutter speed and panning speed also apply.
It's probably going to take some practice.


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## tecboy (May 6, 2015)

Rick50 said:


> This seems to be more than  just a focus problem. Shutter speed and panning speed also apply.
> It's probably going to take some practice.



Even at slow shutter speed while the cars go extremely fast.  Can you show some of your examples?


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## Vtec44 (May 6, 2015)

IMHO, panning needs some time to get use to.  For car and motorcycle races, you want the shutter speed just fast enough to not cause blurriness but slow enough to convey motion, ie you don't want to freeze the wheels.  Your panning action has to be very smooth and it helps if your lens has VR/IS.  I pan with the car/bike before I take the shot and only fire when it gets to a specific spot on a track.  That way, I can predict the movement so my panning action can be smooth.


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## tecboy (May 6, 2015)

Okay.  I posted these not to0 long ago.  Maybe you can give me some feedback.
Continental Tire Monterey Grand Prix 2015 Photography Forum


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## Vtec44 (May 6, 2015)

tecboy said:


> Okay.  I posted these not to0 long ago.  Maybe you can give me some feedback.
> Continental Tire Monterey Grand Prix 2015 Photography Forum



A quick look at it, 1/125 is a bit slow IMHO for fast going cars.  I keep it at around 1/500 or above for racing.  DOF is personal taste but I keep it between 2.8-5.6 since my longest zoom is the 70-200.  The panning motion blur and shallow DOF should get rid of the distracting background.  The street bike photo was taken at 1/400 f4 if I remember it correctly.


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## tecboy (May 6, 2015)

Vtec44 said:


> tecboy said:
> 
> 
> > Okay.  I posted these not to0 long ago.  Maybe you can give me some feedback.
> ...



I dunno. I like slower shutter speed.  It gives me the sense the cars are going fast in motion.


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## Vtec44 (May 6, 2015)

IMHO, 1/125 is WAY too slow for motorsports.  That's the shutter speed I typically shoot model portraits in studios


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## tecboy (May 6, 2015)

Vtec44 said:


> IMHO, 1/125 is WAY too slow for motorsports.  That's the shutter speed I typically shoot model portraits in studios



Why, you don't like the challenge?  I dare you shoot at 1/125 or under.


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## tecboy (May 6, 2015)

Anyway, I did shoot at 1/400 to 1/320 last year.  I don't like the result.  Thanks for your feedback, Vtec.


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## Vtec44 (May 7, 2015)

You have to increase your pan rate to create perception of speed while maintain just high enough shutter speed to prevent unwanted motion blur.  You do that by filling the frame, or get much closer.  The shots I did, both bikers were going no more than 45mph but I pan much faster.


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## tecboy (May 7, 2015)

I think it is all depend on the photographer as an artist.  I just want to get the billboard in the background.  I have more pictures with very close up subjects.  I'm sorting all the photographs, and I will post more soon.


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## Vtec44 (May 7, 2015)

Yeah totally.  Wider angles can tolerate more slower shutter speed.  You just have to pick when to use what to convey your message.


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## tecboy (May 7, 2015)

I posted a discussion about shallower DOF a while ago whether or not I should get a faster lens.  I'm not the fan of totally blur background.  I like to have a background that can easily recognize.  It just gives me a sense of location.


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## jovince3000 (May 7, 2015)

What I personally like is to have my camera in continuous shooting mode when I'm in uncontrolled environment, but in most case I still only shoot one image. This way, I know that if something quick happen, I can take multiple shots nonetheless and not risking to lose the picture. If I see it coming, I switch to AI servo. 

In a studio, I find the feature completely useless though. My personal 2¢


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## table1349 (May 7, 2015)

tecboy said:


> The continuous mode seems very convenience while I was shooting the racing events.  However, it can eats a lot of spaces in my sd card and may not focus the subject correctly.


Yes I often shoot in continuous mode during a sporting event.  HOWEVER...........
Just because you have an f1.2 lens doesn't mean you have to shoot wide open.
Just because you have an automatic weapon doesn't mean you have to only pull the trigger once.  

Learn to control your shutter release.  In the right situation I might squeeze off 3 or 4 shots continuously.  Usually a scramble for a fumble or the ball, depending on the sport.  Rarely does that happen.  Maybe once or twice a game and not every game.


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## TCampbell (May 7, 2015)

On Canon, if the camera is in "One Shot" focus mode then it also uses "focus priority" (won't take the shot until it achieves focus lock -- assuming you've enabled auto-focus.)

If the camera is in AI Servo (continuous focus) then the camera changes to "release priority".  In this mode the camera WILL take the shot when you completely press the shutter button and it will do so whether the camera has had time to focus or not.  When you using AI Servo, you'd want to half-press the shutter so it locks and starts tracking your subject movement before you shooting frames (otherwise you'll just get a lot of out-of-focus frames.)

There's also "AI Focus" mode.  AI Focus isn't a true mode... it's basically a mode that lets the camera auto-select if it uses "One Shot" vs. "AI Servo".  The camera monitors the subject for a moment and, if the subject appears to NOT be moving, it behaves as if you selected "One Shot" mode.  But if it locks focus and the subject falls out of focus again (so the subject is moving) it realizes you have a moving subject and behaves as if you are in "AI Servo" mode.  But the price you pay for this is that it takes the camera a moment to make that decision.  If you already know you have a stationary vs. moving subject then it's better to just pick the right mode.


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## Joves (May 11, 2015)

Well I have mine set to burst, but hardly ever press the shutter release to do a burst. I do use continuous focus, and the 3D Tracking for some moving subjects, but sometimes that focus point mode will screw the pooch.  That only happens when the usual contrat of the subject, and background are to similar. Does your Canon have a focus point tracking mode? I ask because I truly do not know. 
Also if I know I will be panning then it will be a monopod day for me. I set my ballhead loose, and place my left hand under the camera gripping the ballhead so I can tilt it quickly. Works fairly well.


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## kathyt (May 12, 2015)

I typically don't.


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## vintagesnaps (May 12, 2015)

Often shooting sports it's necessary to have a number of players all in focus unless it's a close up of a player, so you're right about not necessarily shooting too open.


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## BananaRepublic (May 12, 2015)

It depends what your are shooting I guess, are you tracking a object for panning purposes. Most of the images there are in single shot mode bar the bike and soccer probably the hawk too. for birds in flight I often find dynamic and 3D tracking makes a meal of the bird because the wings are moving and it focuses on those things not the actual core. But you just have to practice firing in short bursts a memory card with a high write speed can also aid buffer lag


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## Overread (May 12, 2015)

Here is my method:

1) I use back-button auto focus control all the time. That means my shutter button and my focusing button are separated.

2) I use continuous AF mode (AI servo) all the time, the only exception is in dark conditions when I need the a speedlite flash AF assist light (because that won't enable on any mode other than one-shot)

3) I typically, but not exclusively, use "all the time manual focus lenses (USM, HSM etc...)


With the above I am able to point the camera at what I want and enable the af when I want to by just pressing the button on the back of the camera. This engages AF (and IS if I have that on the lens and enabled) and thus the camera starts focusing and tracking the focus. If I want to treat the AF like one shot I just enable the AF with the back button till it focuses on what I want then release that button. I can then take the shot as normal and the AF won't engage when the shutter button is pressed, thus leaving me free to do what I want without having to always be switching modes.

When using all the time manual focus lenses I can go a step further, by not pressing the backbutton the AF won't engage; thus I can use the focus wheel on the lens and focus how I want and take the shot; again the AF won't kick in when the shutter is pressed. Thus I can shoot in one shot - continuous and manual focus all without changing a single setting.


But there's more, if I'm using a lens with IS/OS (or VR if you're Nikon) then I can half press the shutter button to engage and spin-up the anti-shake. This is great if I've pre-focused a shot or for whatever reason, don't want the AF to engage at that point in time. This means I can "point and shoot" an action shot and my anti-shake is already spun up and already working and ready for the shot when I want it to be.


The only time I really have to change into one-shot AF mode is when using a speedlite flash and wanting to have the AF assist light illuminate the target; because that won't engage with continuous AF modes. 

I avoid AI Focus because the camera doesn't know what its looking at nor can it predict when action might happen; I do (or least ways have more chance than the camera) so I don't let it do that bit of thinking for me. I do it and that way I get a reliable, repeatable and known result when I press the back button to engage the AF.


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