# Pedestrian Bridge Over Frozen Lake



## Provo (Feb 12, 2011)




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## SlickSalmon (Feb 12, 2011)

Nice shot, but the halos around the trees are pretty strong.


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## Provo (Feb 12, 2011)

SlickSalmon said:


> Nice shot, but the halos around the trees are pretty strong.



Thanks I am also trying to figure out how to correct this darn color banding I am open for suggestions I have tried Nik dfine clears it up a little but still present I have tried the Gaussian blur idea no luck so I am stuck trying to figure that portion out.

The halo area is minimal if you look at the the thumbnails the sky had that color change I am not saying I don't have a halo cause I do I see it but the color change in the sky makes it look
larger then what it already is if that makes sense.


*Update fixed color banding


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## SlickSalmon (Feb 12, 2011)

May I ask why you take 18 shots?  Do you pick out certain ones to run thru your HDR processor?


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## Provo (Feb 13, 2011)

SlickSalmon said:


> May I ask why you take 18 shots?  Do you pick out certain ones to run thru your HDR processor?



I take multiple shots so that can have better control of the dynamic range
That's why the shots are are spaced at .5ev half step


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## SlickSalmon (Feb 13, 2011)

Provo said:


> SlickSalmon said:
> 
> 
> > May I ask why you take 18 shots?  Do you pick out certain ones to run thru your HDR processor?
> ...



So you pick a subset of those to run thru your HDR processor?  Surely you don't use them all.


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## Provo (Feb 13, 2011)

SlickSalmon said:


> Provo said:
> 
> 
> > SlickSalmon said:
> ...




No I do not pick which exposures
I use all the shot's typically on most cameras AEB (Auto Exposure Bracketing) is limited to 3 shot's  example EV2MAX +2,0,-2 
so what I do with the promote is set it to a higher EV4MAX and set the stepping to .5 aka Half step so now my shots are  
+ 4,3.5,3,2.5,2,1.5,1,.5,0,.5,1,1.5,2,2.5,3,3.5,4 -

If I increased it to a full EV1
then it will be 
+ 4,3,2,1,0,1,2,3,4 - = 9 shot's

Sometime I do this sometimes I do half step other times I might just do something odd ball like + 2,1.5,1,0,.5,1,1.5,2,2.5,3,3.5,4,4.5 - This would be an example perhaps of capturing a night scene of like a street lamp where you want to capture the light but work it down so that the street lamp is not blown out and you've capture the coil the radiance but with greater detail essentially you can see the bulb of the street lamp if it had a clear glass shell. 

It really comes down to control over the scene going back to the + 2,0,2- (3 Shot's) EV but if I did  + 2,1.5,1,.5,0,.5,1,1.5,2 - (9 Shot's) I would have captured the same dynamic range but with more control when processing due to having half stop exposures the image result would benefit from cleaner noise reduction, better sky are dynamic control,halo reduction, etc... I can go grunge with better control of colors which on grunge images the colors tend to shift creating sometimes like a magenta/blueish area let's say on a rusty area or old rusted car etc.. you get the idea.


I am not an expert on this but this so far what I have learned from the benefit of using more exposures and sometimes going above EV2 but trust me EV2 is a good range for most scenes I am just getting my feet wet to using more exposures and going higher then ev2


* See winter Walkway for two answer response you will see a 3 aeb shot and also the answer to our discussions  about using brush *


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## SlickSalmon (Feb 13, 2011)

Interesting.  I've done comparative tests, as well, and I've never seen the advantage in parsing a scene into pieces less than 1EV apart, so long as the dynamic range is covered.  In fact, I see very little difference between 1EV and 2EV spacing.  I must be missing something.


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## robertandrewphoto (Feb 14, 2011)

the weeds on the right side ar pretty distracting in my opinion
too bright compared to everything else


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## Provo (Feb 14, 2011)

robertandrewphoto said:


> the weeds on the right side ar pretty distracting in my opinion
> too bright compared to everything else



The sun is directly behind as you can see from my shadow on the lake bottom 
that plant (Tall Grass) is going to be brighter since there's no shade it's getting the full sunlight


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## robertandrewphoto (Feb 15, 2011)

a little bit of dodging and burning could easily fix that


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## lyonsroar (Feb 15, 2011)

Quite nice, however I am still seeing some halo'ing in the trees in the background.  The second edit is considerably better in this aspect though...


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## coyo (Feb 16, 2011)

Nice provo,,I like the setting,,,sky abit too blue for my taste,but thats a personal thing..

did you leave your shadow in for a reason?


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## Provo (Feb 17, 2011)

coyo said:


> Nice provo,,I like the setting,,,sky abit too blue for my taste,but thats a personal thing..
> 
> did you leave your shadow in for a reason?


 
Yes I did added the personal touch LOL  I do my images share them here and other sites but mainly I share them with my family so I said let me leave my shadow in the image this time. I'm just having a ball with photography that's all nothing commercial.


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## mortovismo (Feb 18, 2011)

Nice shot. I find that increasing the highlight smoothing can help with halo's. Lowering the luminosity levels also helps with it also.


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## gregg_UCT (Feb 23, 2011)

It's a cool composition. Not sure what you used to process, but give our application a try.

HDR Express:

Download HDR Express

Tell me what you think!

Gregg


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## Provo (Feb 25, 2011)

gregg_UCT said:


> It's a cool composition. Not sure what you used to process, but give our application a try.
> 
> HDR Express:
> 
> ...



I have tried it not happy with the results.
90% of the time Photomatix Pro other Dynamic Photo HDR 5


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