# Need Help With Chemical Purchasing!



## jacknife (Mar 30, 2011)

So lets say I shoot 35 rolls of B&W 35mm film within a year. How much of each chemical would I need to develop this amount of film? I prefer concentrate compared to powder solely for shelf life. 

After that lets say I choose to print 300 of those ~840 photographs onto mostly 8x10's. How much of each chemical would I need to develop these prints?

I know this is a very broad question, and there will be many variables like test strips, mess ups, and smaller/larger prints, but I would like to purchase at least half of enough of the chemicals to do the stated in one purchase.


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## ann (Mar 30, 2011)

Get something like hc110, using solution b, the small container should do the job, 1 gallon of fixer, then divide to proper ratio for film then paper. 1 bottle of stop bath,

for printing, that is not so easy to determine. How much experience to do you have in printing. if a lot , you will use less paper. If your learning , much more. You can check the spec sheets on the chemicals you want to use and get a rough estimate from there.


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## KenC (Mar 30, 2011)

It may be impossible to even guess at the amounts for printing because they depend on the factors Ann cited, and also on the size trays you use, to what extent you re-use solutions (OK to some extent with fixer, inadvisable with others, but some people do), how much you are going to "fuss" with the prints (do you want just record shots or are you going for something more like fine art), and on the type of paper - you will get a lot more resin-coated prints than fiber-based prints out of a batch of chemicals.

Since you're going to use fixer for both developing and printing, and it sounds like you are going to be doing a lot of both, you should definitely buy a s***load of fixer, which is relatively cheap and keeps well.  For print developer, I'd make a rough guess based on the variables above and buy a little less.


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## jacknife (Mar 30, 2011)

So for developer Kodak HC110 Film Developer Concentrate to make 2 Gallons | Freestyle Photographic Supplies ?
I was originally looking at Ilford Multigrade Developer 5 liters to make 50 liters | Freestyle Photographic Supplies ?
What fixer would you suggest? I see some are hardening and non-hardening?
Same with stop bath, any that you suggest over another?
I was also looking at Kodak Photo Flo 200 16 oz. | Freestyle Photographic Supplies not necessary?


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## ann (Mar 30, 2011)

you don't need a fixer with hardner these days,  Kodak stop bath is fine.  Ilford rapid fixer will do, you might think of a large gallon size as it makes something like 5 liters of fixer.
LPN is my favority wetting agent, altho Photo flo will do, 16oz will last for years. 

Paper developer is one of those items that you wil get lots of suggestions for; my favorite is LPD, it has a long shelve life and can be used a various dilution rates for various "looks".but the Ilford multigrade is fine.


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## christopher walrath (Mar 30, 2011)

Two bottles of HC110 (used at Dil B), one bottle of a stop bath (I used Kodak but a bath is not necessary, can use water), four bottles of Kodafix and four bottles of Arista Liquid paper developer handled about 40 rolls and 300 prints in a year for me and there is plenty to spare.

I would definitely stick to concentrate if just beginning.  Easier to get going than powder.  And that advice came from an old high school photography teacher.  I have never mixed my own chemistry from powder so I have no comparison but concentrate is definitely a good option.

As to how much YOU will need, figure roughly how much film you intend to process and how many prints you intend to make. It will take some math but that is the best way to figure it.  If you get specific questions we would be MORE than willing to help you out on this front.


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## jacknife (Mar 31, 2011)

What size Arista Liquid Paper Developer did you get 4 of? As I see it comes in a few different sizes. I'm pretty knowledge-less of how much it takes of each chemical to really do anything. Unfortunately I'll be teaching myself everything, with the help of you awesome people and this forum of course! 

Also how do you all feel about Arista Papers? I know they're cheap but are they decent? Or is it totally worth it to get something like Ilford, even for learning?


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## ann (Mar 31, 2011)

the directions for ratios will be on the bottles.

if your teaching yourself, you need to increase everything as there is a learning curve which means you will be filling the "learning basket".
Go to Ilford's website as they have some pdf files that will help you get started. There are several books that can be helpful, but if you can take a class withsome who knows what they are doing, or find a mentor in your area you will learn faster.
asking question is fine, but being able to set withsome with a print in hand to discuss what should be done, i.e. where to burn or dodge, changing contrast, etc. is much better IMHO.

Harry Horenstein book :Black and Whire Photography A Basic Manual" is very good, also Larry Bartlett Black and White Photo workshop is terrific for printing.

I don't know about those papers, my students have been using Ilford"s MC papers, both RC and fiber.


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## J.Kendall (Mar 31, 2011)

I'm glad _someone_ mentioned photo flo. That stuff is amazing for a final cleaning of your negatives after developing film. You should definitely buy yourself a bottle. Just a drop or two per development makes that stuff last forever too.


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## djacobox372 (Apr 1, 2011)

Consider that it will probably take you 2-3 tries to get each print right. 

You must be a great photographer to get 300 prints out of 840 shots.


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## ann (Apr 2, 2011)

try using distilled water with wetting agents hoto-flo, lpf, less opportunity for streaking.


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## Gene Gustafson (Apr 2, 2011)

Unless you're developing all 35 rolls of film at the same time, or printing all 840 prints at the same time, buy as you go. Don't make life any more complicated than it already is.


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## djacobox372 (Apr 3, 2011)

ann said:


> try using distilled water with wetting agents hoto-flo, lpf, less opportunity for streaking.


 
Good suggestion, I use tap water for everything EXCEPT the final rinse, which is always done with distilled water and photo-flo.


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## christopher walrath (Apr 4, 2011)

I use tap for everything.  Of course, that depends locally.

The Arista Paper Developer I got was the 16 ounce bottles.  When I print, I mix up 50 ounces for 8x10 trays.  The mixing ratio for the Arista Paper Dev is 1:9.  So, that's twelve sessions.  Yeah, I don't print that often.  That's due to logistics.  To much setup/tear down time involved.  So I print maybe once a month.  Probably three test prints.  A few work prints zeroing in on how I like it.  If I think I have it right I will run off about fifteen prints.  If I think it still needs work, I might run off three.  Usually, when I am done, I have made anywhere from 30-40 prints.


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