# The Ciro-Flex medium format



## Niner (Aug 24, 2014)

Ciro-flex was an American camera. First made in Chicago.  The first one has an "Alphax" lens and the later model , with a slightly faster shutter speed, a "Raptar" lens.   It was plain but it was serious enough for a serious amateur with a limited budget to make respectable photographs on 120 film.  It's chief competition in 1940, when it was new, and the one people got when money was no object, was the Rollicord.  But it had the advantage, at $88.50, of being about half the price of the Rollicord.  As time marched on the Japanese got into the market of knocking off copies of more sophisticated German camera models at better prices.  Ciro-flex went away and Graflex bought them out and assumed the same production design and the same features.  By 1957 they were done too. But ...if you want a simple fun, clunky,  metal, 2.4 pounds without film, historical and fun camera... get one.  The biggest problem, for me is loading the darn negative onto the reel I have and processing it.


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## timor (Aug 24, 2014)

I would like to have this one. It has interesting progression of shutter speeds: T, B and then the highest speed going to slowest. Usually is T, B and the slowest going to the fastest.
What kind of developing tank you have ? Maybe I can help you here.


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## limr (Aug 24, 2014)

My boyfriend has one of those. Really holds its own. He stopped using it in favor of a Rolleiflex he found in a junk shot for about $30, plus he's more of a rangefinder kind of shooter, but he does still like it a lot. I might have to borrow it someday. I've got a Lubitel, which is surprisingly good for what it is, and a Mamiya C330 to satisfy my TLR needs, but sometimes one would like to use something between a toy and a battle weapon


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## unpopular (Aug 24, 2014)

It ought to be noted that Raptor and Aphex are the shutter, for which, in this case, the Wollensak manufactured Velostigmat 85\3.5 is mounted. This isn't an unusual practice.


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## Niner (Aug 25, 2014)

Timor, I have one of those adjustable 35 to 120 reels.  It's hell on the 120 but works fine for 35mm.  So I got a metal standard 120 reel.  It works fine for 120 getting the undeveloped roll on the reel, but the tank leaks light with this reel and I need a new tank made for the metal reel....or I need to do everything in a changing bag.


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## timor (Aug 25, 2014)

Niner said:


> I have one of those adjustable 35 to 120 reels.  It's hell on the 120 but works fine for 35mm.


So it is a Patterson system. I am using them to. Well, if you are tryin to tell me, that you load 120 film on that reel in the bag, then yes, it's a hell. I never even attempted that. But in the darkroom (read this - temporary darkroom) it takes only a minute. 
So, you need this:
Kalt Stainless Steel Developing Tank for One 120 Reel NP10114
or a way to have temporarily blackened room - good for loading any type of reel.
With plastic reel I do a little trick; first I free the film from the paper backing and then start insert it into the spiral with the end which stiil has the strip tape which fastened film to the backing. To easy the sliding I bend back that end of film and the corners even more. (It will spring back, but not so much) The hardest is insertion, but, isn't it always ?


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## limr (Aug 25, 2014)

I also unroll the entire roll to get the film free from the paper before I try to load it into the reel. My trick with 120 on the Patterson plastic reels is to cut off the corners just a little bit (so yes, you'll need some scissors in the bag.) It's remarkable how much easier it is to insert the film.


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## Niner (Aug 25, 2014)

ThanksTimor.  I ordered one.... same model and brand...from Amazon for $12.50 and free delivery with Prime.  It should do the trick and not let light in if adding chemicals in daylight.

Limr, I've tried cutting the corners and removing the paper...but I have a hard time keeping the film on track and  the film edges from buckling  and pulling out of the track before it's locked in by the ball bearings. And I'm trying to do this in a changing bag.


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## compur (Aug 25, 2014)

When loading 120 film on a Paterson reel try laying a business card across the reels' entrance slots before inserting the film. I find it makes loading much easier.


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## Niner (Aug 25, 2014)

Now that's an idea compur.  I hadn't heard of that before.


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## smithdan (Aug 25, 2014)

compur said:


> When loading 120 film on a Paterson reel try laying a business card across the reels' entrance slots before inserting the film. I find it makes loading much easier.



Try that one for sure next time with the card
and I always have scissors in the bag to cut the film from the paper.  Tearing it can often causes a bit of static electricity, kinda pretty but unwanted.


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## limr (Aug 25, 2014)

compur said:


> When loading 120 film on a Paterson reel try laying a business card across the reels' entrance slots before inserting the film. I find it makes loading much easier.



Then load the film above or below the card?


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## compur (Aug 26, 2014)

Above


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## timor (Aug 26, 2014)

compur said:


> Above


Don't like it, another way to scratch the film. That's why I do not recommend AP  reels
http://www.firstcall-photographic.co.uk/images/products/standard/824.jpg
However they might be better, (could be polished), than a biz card.


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## compur (Aug 26, 2014)

^ That's a good point. I use glossy type cards which have never scratched any film I've loaded. And only to get the film started on the reel. When it's loading OK I remove the card.


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## timor (Aug 27, 2014)

I see. That sounds better.


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## vintagesnaps (Aug 27, 2014)

Nice camera and photos Niner. Compur you have all the good tips... when are you going to do a book or something on shooting and processing film? and using vintage cameras. And everything else you know!


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## compur (Aug 27, 2014)

One of these days ...


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