# Ready for the next level - hobby photography with Nikon D5000



## NORTHERNGAL (Jul 28, 2014)

Hello!

I have a D5000 that I purchased a few years back for personal use, but over the last 1.5 years have begun taking photos for friends and family. Mostly lifestyle, family, pet and outdoor photography with natural lighting. I've taken photography courses years ago, but most of what I do now is self taught. I've been able to get by with my current stock of lenses (Nikkor 35mm, 50mm, kit lens, 55-200mm) but come away from my shoots feeling dissatisfied as the images I visualize aren't happening with my current equipment. I'm thinking it's time to upgrade to a new, better body and perhaps add to my stock of lenses. I find myself using my 50mm (1.8) the most often and am looking for something that would allow me a wider view with the same depth of field, and perhaps the option to zoom. I have up to $2000 that I'd feel comfortable spending on an upgrade.

Any suggestions for a new body and perhaps a new lens? I'm looking at the Nikon D800 as a possible option...

Thanks in advance.


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## Designer (Jul 28, 2014)

Before you make that purchase, why not post an example here so others can see.  IOW: perhaps it's not the camera but lighting (for example).


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## NORTHERNGAL (Jul 28, 2014)

Great idea! I'll post a few from my shoot this morning. One sec...


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## vintagesnaps (Jul 28, 2014)

What is it that you feel you can't do with the equipment you have now? or that you visualize but don't see in your photos? I mean the questions more as something to think about before you get into the expense of more equipment.


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## NORTHERNGAL (Jul 28, 2014)

Great idea! I'll post a few from my shoot this morning. One sec...

Here are a few that I am, overall, satisfied with. I had to do some colour correction but that was all.


 

These ones feel pretty blah to me.  The last two are clearly overexposed, but I still feel like they would have been crappy shots.

I am looking for more vibrancy, clarity, and more background blur/depth of field (excuse me, the term is alluding me right now!), and the kind of "glow" that you see in professional photography. I apologize for my lack of knowledge of specific terms... clearly I should start by hitting the books a little more. 




Hope that helps... let me know if I can provide any further details.

Here are a few that didn't make the cut/ didn't come out as I'd hoped.


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## KmH (Jul 28, 2014)

I am assuming your lenses are -  AF-S 35 mm f/1.8G, AF-S 50 mm f/1.8G, AF-S 18-55 mm f/3.5-5.6G, and AF-S 55-200 mm f/3.5-5.6G 

 The D5000 is fine. Consider upgrading your lenses first.

The lenses you have don't have the sharpness and optical quality for the resolution a D800 has.

Lenses for the D800 would be a well cared for used (about $1500) Nikon 24-70mm f/2.8G ED AF-S Nikkor 

and a well cared for used (about $2200) Nikon 70-200mm f/2.8G ED VR II AF-S Nikkor Zoom Lens For Nikon Digital SLR Cameras


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## Derrel (Jul 28, 2014)

You know what I see in these? I see the deep depth of field/lack of true selective focus, that is typical of smaller-format camera photos made in sunlight level lighting with consumer-type lenses. I also see very tricky lighting for the less than very skilled shooter; working in tall trees, or around them, in backlighting, or dappled sunlighted conditions is made easier with the newer-sensor Nikon cameras that approach 14-EV dynamic range, **if** you know how to properly meter, and expose and compose, and then exactly how to post-process RAW files.

This kind of open-woodsy scene demands very careful, specific working methods. You have very bright highlights in some of these. And those do not look good. This kind of lighting condition is very demanding on the backgrounds, and also on *exactly* where the people are placed, and where the light source is, and which direction they are angled, in relation to the light. You can used on-camera flash as fill light and expose more for the backgrounds; you can use off-camera flash and use the sunlight as a rim light or back-light; you can use the high sun as a main light; you can move into total shade, and watch the backgrounds for hot spots and compose so there are none; you can use BIG reflectors. In short, there are several ways to work in dappled sunlight--and each method demands near-expert-level camera work to get good pictures.

This kind of lighting is so,so tricky that one forum member, KmH, has often said basically, "Do not shoot in dappled sunlight". On frame 1,2,4, and 5, you handled it pretty well, but not expertly; the colors still look a bit pallid. The problem here is the lighting, and the exposure, and the post-processing. You are really far,far off on the last three photos, which have terribly burnt-out, non-recoverable blown highlight areas, my guess is due to the way the meter reading was determined, and also, due to,well, a lot of dark greenery and some hot, summer light shafts hitting some objects. The in-focus nature of the backgrounds is somewhat due to smallish f/stops, and the small sensor, and the distances and focal lengths these were shot at.

This set would be a headache to shoot. I could shoot here, but it would be a real PITA. A full-frame, modern-sensor Nikon with 13.8 EV of dynamic range, like a D610, and an 85mm 1.8, or better yet, an old 80-200 f/2.8 two-ring, would make some of the backgrounds easier to control. A good, 400 Watt-second off-camera flash in a 45 inch umbrella would help. A big overhead scrim, almost like a picnic gazebo, would be a tool you could use. This is one tough location with that kind of summer lighting! This set was done in a tough,tough set of conditions. You have a HUGE disparity between the brights, and the darks. There are like 5,6 ways to bridge that gap, mostly through the knowledge of how to do it, and not so much the gear per se, but having and using the right flash or fill, and the right exposure method, and then processing RAW data the right way to make the scene dynamic range look "good". These are kind of washed-out color-wise. This is tough, tough light.


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## Browncoat (Jul 28, 2014)

Your first mistake was posting photos. Let the drama begin.


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## pixmedic (Jul 28, 2014)

Browncoat said:


> Your first mistake was posting photos. Let the drama begin.



Nope. This section was specifically made for drama free aspiring pro questions. 
Rabble rousers stirring up trouble here will be dealt with swiftly and harshly.


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## NORTHERNGAL (Jul 28, 2014)

Thank you, Keith and Derrel, for your thoughts and feedback! I definitely need to work on my technique; I feel like I've kind of fudged things so far and really need to educate myself on some of the finer details and nuances as you've pointed out, Derrel. 

Keith, I appreciate your suggestions on the lenses. I'll check those out.


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## NORTHERNGAL (Jul 28, 2014)

Another question. KmH, could I put your suggested lenses on the D5000? Or would I need the d800 to really see a difference? 

Thanks!


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## Browncoat (Jul 28, 2014)

If you're doing mostly portrait work, do yourself a huge favor and pick up a dedicated portrait lens. 35mm and 50mm are okay for environmental portraits, but for those up close and personal moments, you might consider a good 85mm or 105mm lens. 

Some advice I wish someone had given me when I was starting out: learn more about off-camera flash. Check out Strobist and Neil van Neikerk. Save some of that cash for a portable speedlight setup and a couple modifiers. Attend a workshop or buy a book on lighting. Quality lighting will make your photos look better than a new camera. When you can learn to combine ambient lighting with flash, you open up new doors.


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## Tailgunner (Jul 28, 2014)

NORTHERNGAL said:


> Another question. KmH, could I put your suggested lenses on the D5000? Or would I need the d800 to really see a difference?
> 
> Thanks!



My only concern is most of your DX glass is built with internal focusing motors while FX glass does not. FX glass is usually auto focused through a motor built in the body. I can't recall but I don't believe the D5000 comes with an auto focus motor. This is why i opted for the D7100, it comes with a built in auto focus motor...so it will auto focus both DX and FX glass. I then began buying FX specific glass knowing my next body would be FX. Anyhow, if the D500 has a built in auto focus motor for FX glass, you're golden, other wise I would opt for buying a D7100 and either a 17-55mm 2.8 or 24-70mm 2.8. Either set up will put you where you need to be...although a lot of portrait photographers will using the 70-200mm 2.8 VRI/VRII, 80-200mm 2.8 (2 ring), or 85mm 1.8. You will still need to avoid shooting in the middle of the day.


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## KmH (Jul 28, 2014)

NORTHERNGAL said:


> Another question. KmH, could I put your suggested lenses on the D5000? Or would I need the d800 to really see a difference?
> 
> Thanks!


Yes, and you will see a difference using them on the D5000.
.


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## KmH (Jul 28, 2014)

Tailgunner said:


> My only concern is most of your DX glass is built with internal focusing motors while FX glass does not. FX glass is usually auto focused through a motor built in the body.


That is simply not true.
Only the older FX lenses do not have an AF motor in the lens.

AF-S FX lens can only use the AF motor in the lens. AF-S lenses - DX or FX -  lack the lens part of the camera to lens mechanical connection needed to use an in the camera AF motor and screw=drive.


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## Tailgunner (Jul 28, 2014)

KmH said:


> Tailgunner said:
> 
> 
> > My only concern is most of your DX glass is built with internal focusing motors while FX glass does not. FX glass is usually auto focused through a motor built in the body.
> ...



OIC, So neither a DX or FX lens has the ability to use an AF motor built into a body?


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## NORTHERNGAL (Jul 28, 2014)

What about some of the off-brand lenses - Sigma, Tamron - better to skip or worth a try? It should be noted here that I don't intend to make photography my full time work, just a part time endeavour (but one I want to do well).


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## Derrel (Jul 28, 2014)

I think the images I am seeing on-line from the new Tamron 24-70 VC and the new Tamron 70-200mm f/2.8 VC lens look quite, quite high-grade and "modern" in their color saturation and really sharp-sharp rendering characteristics. As far as other lenses, the new 85mm f/1.8 AF-S G-series Nikon prime lens is super-sharp, and I mean one of the sharpest, crispest lenses under $4,000. It's only got the one length though...that's the rub. No zoom, so less flexibility than a zoom.

I think the new 70-200 f/4 VR-Nikon, the smaller, lighter, f/4 model is a great value. For light duty use, I expect a 70-200 2.8 or f4 lens from any of the makers will last 20 to 30 years. And it is a SUPER-convenient tool, so, the price while not low, represents five to six different lens lengths in one, single tube, and a heck of a lot of good shootin'!

The lens I have now switched to for portraits is the Nikon late 1990's era 80-200 f/2.8 AF-S. This is not the cheaper "two-ring" model still available new. This lens has three focus-lock buttons, located PERFECTLY for horizontals or verticals, in raised "beds"...small, round buttons you can hold in and use to lock focus with the left hand's thumb or fingers, with the focusing action left on the shutter button: this makes this lens perfect for focus-recompose action on big cameras that have only the AF-ON button when the built-in vertical grip is being used for talls. These focus lock buttons again are perfectly positioned, and they work splendidly, and the left hand can support the lens with the tripod foot. That makes the 80-200 f/2.8 AF-S (the one with the five ED-glass elements!) also a very nice lens for small-body cameras like the D3000 or D5000 or Fuji S5 Pro/Nikon D200 size cameras. it also has GOOD image quality on full-frame, better than the 70-200 VR-1 it has replaced for me on FF. Price wise it's $900-$950, and a bargain at that price. The focus lock buttons on the VR-1 are wayyyyyyyyyy out at the end of the barrel, in frankly, a stupid location; this 80-200, AF-S focusing f/2.8 Nikon zoom lens was designed for SHOOTERS!!!!


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## Designer (Jul 29, 2014)

I wish you had numbered them.  

#s 1,2,&3 could use some fill, either from a flash or a reflector.
#s 1&5 white balance is off
#s 1,2,&3 framing issues

#s 6,7,8,&9 most of above issues

And just as I suspected; you don't need a new camera body yet, you just need to work on your skills (something a new body upgrade will not improve) and maybe a new lens or two, as KmH has suggested.  So if you can afford some new stuff, get a speedlight, a modifier, remote triggers, stand etc., and perhaps an upgrade lens or two and then learn how to use all that.  At some point in the future, when your skills actually outgrow the D5000, is when you can think about a body upgrade.


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## KmH (Jul 29, 2014)

Tailgunner said:


> OIC, So neither a DX or FX lens has the ability to use an AF motor built into a body?


If they are an AF_*-S*_ DX or FX lens. Only AF lenses use the built-in AF motor and screw-drive.

A Nikon *AF* 50 mm f/1.8D will use the built-in AF motor and screw-drive, but a *AF-S* 50 mm f/1.8G can't - because it has a AF motor in the lens.

Nikon started making AF-S lenses about 1992, years before their 1st digital camera was launched. 
All of Nikon's DSLR cameras were DX cameras (AFS-C image sensor) until Nikon launched the FX (full frame) D3 in August of 2007.


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## NORTHERNGAL (Jul 29, 2014)

Thanks.


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## gsgary (Jul 29, 2014)

Browncoat said:


> If you're doing mostly portrait work, do yourself a huge favor and pick up a dedicated portrait lens. 35mm and 50mm are okay for environmental portraits, but for those up close and personal moments, you might consider a good 85mm or 105mm lens.
> 
> Some advice I wish someone had given me when I was starting out: learn more about off-camera flash. Check out Strobist and Neil van Neikerk. Save some of that cash for a portable speedlight setup and a couple modifiers. Attend a workshop or buy a book on lighting. Quality lighting will make your photos look better than a new camera. When you can learn to combine ambient lighting with flash, you open up new doors.



I have never seen a dedicated portrait len, does it say "85mm dedicated portrait lens" on the barrel ?


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## Tailgunner (Jul 29, 2014)

KmH said:


> A Nikon *AF* 50 mm f/1.8D will use the built-in AF motor and screw-drive, but a *AF-S* 50 mm f/1.8G can't - because it has a AF motor in the lens.



Yes sir, this is exactly what I was thinking when I made my statement. My D3100 couldn't auto focus my 50mm 1.8D but my D7100 could. So I knew some glass had built in AF motors while others did not. I just never paid attention to which. 

Either way, I Think the OP could benefit more for a couple triggers, speed light, and a soft box...that and shooting with less intense sunlight.


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## NORTHERNGAL (Jul 29, 2014)

Thanks everyone so much for your feedback and suggestions. I think lighting is definitely one of my main issues, as many of you have pointed out. I've decided to get myself an 85mm 1.4, Tamron 24-70mm 2.8 (has fantastic reviews!) plus the SB-700 speed light. All of that comes to just over $2k (Canada). We're on holidays for the next 3 weeks, so I'll be playing and practicing. When I get back from I'll also be purchasing a soft box and probably a tripod and some other gear. Really looking forward to spending some time improving my skill and learning to use everything together.


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## astroNikon (Jul 29, 2014)

Just for clarity.  I'm fairly sure the d5000 does not have a built-in focus motor, thus cannot use AF screw-drive focusing lenses and expect them to Auto Focus.  You can still use them and manually focus.  Only AF-S identified lenses for electronic auto focusing.


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## KmH (Jul 29, 2014)

Nikon 'compact' entry-level DSLRs that *do not* have a built-in AF motor/screw-drive system:
D40, D40x, D60, D3XXX, D5XXX.


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## NORTHERNGAL (Jul 29, 2014)

Thank you. I'm not completely averse to manual focusing, if that is the case. The 85mm lens I'm getting is actually a manual focus lens. The price point difference is huge, and it has excellent reviews. I figure it will give me the opportunity to practice my manual focus. http://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B003V06YA6/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=A3DWYIK6Y9EEQB 

I'm very excited to get going! 2-day shipping it is.


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## studio460 (Jul 31, 2014)

I think you would get the most bang-for-the-buck (plus, the most fun), with a brand new AF-S Nikkor 85mm f/1.8G. One of _the_ best values in Nikon glass, and among Nikon's sharpest. Gorgeous, 127mm-equivalent focal length on DX, perfect for shallow-focus, head-and-shoulders portraits.


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## NORTHERNGAL (Jul 31, 2014)

Ive already ordered, Studio460, but thank you for your comment! Hopefully I'll have good luck with the ones I got.


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