# Using my 50mm f/1.8D with my D90



## eswarpr (Nov 10, 2011)

I know it sounds a bit of a beginner / noob question, but I really hope someone can help.

I am "upgrading" myself from my kit 18-105 VR to 50mm f/1.8D with no VR. I got this a few days ago, and am trying to use it properly and I really need help.

Can someone please correct me about the settings that I think would be right:

1) Use 50mm to take a landscape picture

  Higher f-stop numbers (f/11 - f/22), auto-focus (multi area) (AF-S/A)? Lots of natural light?

2) Use 50mm to take a portrait

   Lower f-stops (2.8 - 5), auto-focus (multi area) (AF-S/A)? Sufficient amount of light?

One of the things I found was that the lens is quite sensitive to movements, and I don't have a very steady hand. I believe then the shutter speed should be as high as possible for the given f-stop, or use a tripod? How do you avoid this in a low light condition? Is tripod / monopod the only answer?

I am sorry for so many questions, I guess I am thinking aloud as much as asking questions.

Many thanks for any help you could provide.


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## Big Mike (Nov 10, 2011)

You use the aperture (F stops) to control both exposure and depth of field.  If you choose to use a deep depth of field, whether for portraits or landscapes, then you would choose a smaller aperture (higher F number).
If you choose to use a shallow DOF, then use a larger aperture (lower F number).

The auto focus mode you use (AF-S/C/A) doesn't really matter in terms of exposure or DOF, they are just different ways of arriving at your focus point/distance.

As for shutter speed, if you are hand-holding the camera, then you need to ensure that your shutter speed is sufficient to freeze the movement of the camera in your hands.  Rule of thumb would be to use at least 1/75 (1 over 50 times 1.5).  

If you can't get a shutter speed that fast, either because you can't or don't want to use a larger aperture, then you raise the ISO.  

If you have the luxury of using a tripod etc., then you don't have to worry about the shutter speed (provided your subject isn't moving) so you can use any aperture & ISO that works for you.


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## Patrice (Nov 10, 2011)

Getting good at hand holding a camera takes practice but it is well worth it. With proper technique you will able to get decent photos at surprisingly slow shutter speeds.

When you hold your camera to your face try and rest some part of it against your forehead. Have one elbow tucked tight to your body. Cradle the camera in the hand you use to control the lens. Have your feet firmly on the ground about shoulder width apart. Having your shutter hand and elbow up in the air when shooting in portrait orientation is not the best way to go. If you don't have a vertical shutter release try and hold the camera such that the shutter button is on the lower part of the camera, that way both your elbows can be tucked in. Do not jab the shutter button. Much like shooting a firearm, take a breath and pause slightly as you exhale at which time gently squeeze your whole hand to activate the shutter.


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## eswarpr (Nov 11, 2011)

Big Mike said:


> You use the aperture (F stops) to control both exposure and depth of field.  If you choose to use a deep depth of field, whether for portraits or landscapes, then you would choose a smaller aperture (higher F number).
> If you choose to use a shallow DOF, then use a larger aperture (lower F number).
> 
> The auto focus mode you use (AF-S/C/A) doesn't really matter in terms of exposure or DOF, they are just different ways of arriving at your focus point/distance.
> ...



Thanks Mike. I will keep these rules in mind next time.


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## eswarpr (Nov 11, 2011)

Patrice said:


> Getting good at hand holding a camera takes practice but it is well worth it. With proper technique you will able to get decent photos at surprisingly slow shutter speeds.
> 
> When you hold your camera to your face try and rest some part of it against your forehead. Have one elbow tucked tight to your body. Cradle the camera in the hand you use to control the lens. Have your feet firmly on the ground about shoulder width apart. Having your shutter hand and elbow up in the air when shooting in portrait orientation is not the best way to go. If you don't have a vertical shutter release try and hold the camera such that the shutter button is on the lower part of the camera, that way both your elbows can be tucked in. Do not jab the shutter button. Much like shooting a firearm, take a breath and pause slightly as you exhale at which time gently squeeze your whole hand to activate the shutter.



Thanks Patrice, that is very helpful. I will bookmark that paragraph.


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## Drake (Nov 11, 2011)

eswarpr said:


> I am "upgrading" myself from my kit 18-105 VR to 50mm f/1.8D with no VR.


One thing - it's not really an upgrade, just getting another lens. Both your lens are entirely different and should be used according to the current conditions and your vision. You can't just stop using your standard zoom entirely, there are things it can do that the 50 prime just can't.


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## eswarpr (Nov 11, 2011)

Drake said:


> eswarpr said:
> 
> 
> > I am "upgrading" myself from my kit 18-105 VR to 50mm f/1.8D with no VR.
> ...



Thanks Drake. No, I was not intending to replace my zoom, but I wanted to use my prime as much as possible so I can learn, among other things, manual focussing, depth of field, exposure and the likes that you take for granted in my VR zoom lens. Since it is a prime, I will need to do a lot more twisting, turning and moving around which will get me in touch with the environment I am using to take a picture, rather than zoom in and out and not interact with the light and focus.

To be fair, I did put the upgrading in quotes


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## indiabravo (Nov 28, 2011)

eswarpr said:


> Can someone please correct me about the settings that I think would be right:
> 
> 1) Use 50mm to take a landscape picture
> 
> Higher f-stop numbers (f/11 - f/22), auto-focus (multi area) (AF-S/A)? Lots of natural light?



For landscapes, your 18-105mm should be more than ok. It has the wide end at 18mm and for landscapes a fast lens isn't really necessary, just a tripod.  Although, for a portrait lens I love my nifty fifty! BTW, you can get f/11-f/22 on your 18-105mm!

Iain


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