# Canon point and shoot beginner



## mahi_Australia (Dec 24, 2016)

Hi, recently I bought a canon sx720 to start my photography journey moving away from mobile phone camera. It has few options with dial mode good for a beginner. Any advise to take great photos using above camera is much appreciated. Thanks


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## mahi_Australia (Dec 24, 2016)

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## jcdeboever (Dec 24, 2016)

Read the manual. 

Your off to great start, those images look real nice. 

As you can see, they can give you a quality image if you understand it's short comings. 

A tripod can be very helpful for long zoom images, and in low light situations where you can manually set your ISO to 100, then manually (M mode) set your apeture and shutter speed for correct exposure. 

If you must shoot hand held in poor light, use your flash and set your camera to Tv mode and shoot at or near the max sync speed, probably 250s.

For general shooting in good light, Program Auto mode works fine. However, you will want to establish an acceptable ISO level for noise, in other words, find out the max noise level you find acceptable for your images, then when shooting in good light, adust the max ISO in the menu for that session. My SX60HS is OK for me up to 800 ISO.

If you want to get a tripod, you can shoot remotely using your phone, see page 136 in your manual. 

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## Derrel (Dec 24, 2016)

Very good advice from JC in his post above. As he mentioned with most point and shoot cameras ISO performance above say 640 or 800 is often very sketchy in anything except good bright light. In dim lighting, High ISO performance tends to show the camera's shortcomings quite readily.

Digicams often have very wide-ranging zoom lenses. It's often best to decide what kind of picture you want to make and then set the lens length to get that picture. This is very different from Simply zooming in and out in and out and then settling up on a framing. For example your picture of the large sign. Being close like that creates a drop off in size and creates a feeling of being there. Had you taken the same photo at maximum zoom,butnfrom 50 meters distant, you would have created a very different photo. And that is my tip for you-- think about creating photos--not taking them but instead creating them, making them.


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## mahi_Australia (Dec 24, 2016)

Thanks you guys, I will follow your advise. Will post more pictures...I am happy that this forum is already proving very helpful for my photography passion. Appreciate your time. Merry Christmas


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## Derrel (Dec 24, 2016)

Merry Christmas to you as well. here's a tip for improvement: before heading out to MAKE some photos, start with a plan. Plan you say? Go out to make photos of circles. Or angled lines. Or patches of lawn and sidewalk. Or go out to MAKE photos that have no visible horizon line in them. Or go out to shoot only TALL photos for an afternoon. Do not neglect the talls (verticals!). Talls imply action, movement, activity, while wides imply tranquility, rest, balance.

Try shooting with some kind of plan of action for a few weeks. Or, with two, or three pre-set, pre-determined objectives. Doing these things will sharpen your skills, quickly.

Subject for the Day: my pet. My co-workers. My job. My route to work. And so on.


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## jcdeboever (Dec 24, 2016)

As far as tripods, I have three different types. Standard up to almost 6ft height with a ball head, a small bendy one that can be used as a clamp or on a table, and a monopod with attachable ball head which is very useful for flowers and where you can't use a tripod, like a zoo. Food for thought. 

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## photo1x1.com (Dec 25, 2016)

Hi and welcome to the forum .
You´ve already received some very good advice. Your camera has all the modes you need to start into the great venture of photography. Practicing is key to improvement as Derrel said. Make sure to learn about the basics of photography to be able to adapt to different situations. For example there is a difference in which shutter speed you should choose for an image of moving kids, or athletes compared to a landscape shot.

It seems you are already experimenting with different settings. Three of your images are shot in panoramic mode (16:9) image ratio and one in regular 4:3. The biggest possible image in compact cameras is usually recorded when using 4:3 - you can always crop later to get the best image ratio for e.g. presenting your images on a TV.
Merry Christmas to you too. I love those summery christmas photos - especially when I look out of my window where it is dark and cold .


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## Derrel (Dec 25, 2016)

I wanted to get back to your thread today because I just looked up the sx720 Canon and recognized it. My ex-wife owns one of these and I have actually used this camera. It has a 40x optical zoom and 4x digital Zoom. Using only the true, optical zoom, the maximum telephoto setting is incredibly long. I do not own a lens long enough to even begin to compare to how powerful the maximum telephoto is on this small camera!

With its 20.3 megapixel sensor, this is a type of digicam that is fairly new. A good optical zoom of extrordinary range, and a high megapixel sensor. Before his death Michael Reichmann at The Luminous Landscape became enamored of this type of camera, of which there are only a handful.

Again back to the tripod issue that JC mentioned above. A tripod can help you frame close-up photographs such as those of flowers or still life scenes, or landscapes, and you can take a photo and look at it on the back of the camera and then make Minor Adjustments to the camera or the lens etcetera, to get a vastly improved photo while still on-scene. A tripod causes you to slow down and to think about your compositions in a way that is very different from handheld shooting. And with the sx720's extremely powerful telephoto, I believe that a tripod would greatly improve your long-distance photography. Again for those unfamiliar with it the maximum zoom setting on this camera is incredibly, incredibly long.

The last thing I want to recommend is any one of the 32 books written by famous photography educator John Hedgecoe. His books illustrate photography with hundreds of small photos and diagrams,broken down into fantastic lessons, and his book Complete Photography Course, for example is very helpful. If you would like to see photography explained in words and pictures and broken down into hundreds of individual topics and sub-topics, the many books of John Hedgecoe, a former professor of Photography at London's Royal College, are still unsurpassed. There is a saying "You don't know what it is that you don't know." That old saying is very true in this day and age of self-taught learning via the web . And this is where the John Hedgecoe books come into play. Your new camera has a wide-angle, normal, telephoto, and super telephoto, and a macro lens built-in. You could read one of his books and have all of the equipment he details, within your brand new Canon. This is why I have gone to such lengths on this post: you have an amazing digicam. Even though we now have videos on YouTube and the world wide web, I do not believe there has ever been a better photographic educator and author than John Hedgecoe. That is why publishers were willing to release 32 books written by the man. I would look online at amazon.com and buy any one of several of his book titles. You now have a camera that can take you to Great Heights photographically.


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## otherprof (Dec 25, 2016)

Derrel said:


> Very good advice from JC in his post above. As he mentioned with most point and shoot cameras ISO performance above say 640 or 800 is often very sketchy in anything except good bright light. In dim lighting, High ISO performance tends to show the camera's shortcomings quite readily.
> 
> Digicams often have very wide-ranging zoom lenses. It's often best to decide what kind of picture you want to make and then set the lens length to get that picture. This is very different from Simply zooming in and out in and out and then settling up on a framing. For example your picture of the large sign. Being close like that creates a drop off in size and creates a feeling of being there. Had you taken the same photo at maximum zoom,butnfrom 50 meters distant, you would have created a very different photo. And that is my tip for you-- think about creating photos--not taking them but instead creating them, making them.


"Make it, don't take it."  I've got my resolution (no pun intended) for 2017!


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## mahi_Australia (Dec 25, 2016)

Derrel said:


> I wanted to get back to your thread today because I just looked up the sx720 Canon and recognized it. My ex-wife owns one of these and I have actually used this camera. It has a 40x optical zoom and 4x digital Zoom. Using only the true, optical zoom, the maximum telephoto setting is incredibly long. I do not own a lens long enough to even begin to compare to how powerful the maximum telephoto is on this small camera!
> 
> With its 20.3 megapixel sensor, this is a type of digicam that is fairly new. A good optical zoom of extrordinary range, and a high megapixel sensor. Before his death Michael Reichmann at The Luminous Landscape became enamored of this type of camera, of which there are only a handful.
> 
> ...



Thanks Darrel, I am going to get the tripod soon. I have taken few pics this weekend they are bit shaky and I am not happy with the output. I will browse the books online you mentioned. Thanks for your time, cheers. 


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## photo1x1.com (Dec 26, 2016)

mahi_Australia said:


> Derrel said:
> 
> 
> > I wanted to get back to your thread today because I just looked up the sx720 Canon and recognized it. My ex-wife owns one of these and I have actually used this camera. It has a 40x optical zoom and 4x digital Zoom. Using only the true, optical zoom, the maximum telephoto setting is incredibly long. I do not own a lens long enough to even begin to compare to how powerful the maximum telephoto is on this small camera!
> ...



Derrel is a well of knowledge, amazing. I just looked at that camera - probably the next Christmas present for my parents .

One thing to consider when using a tripod: don't touch the camera when using the 40x zoom. It sure has a nice stabilizer, but pressing the shutter can introduce shake. Better use the built in self timer (2sec) or the app to release the shutter, as jcdeboever suggested. Same goes for longer exposures with less zoom.


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## jcdeboever (Dec 27, 2016)

I own six Hedgcoe books now, per advise of Derrel. They may be old but amazingly simple to read and understand. I bought all of them used off Amazon and didn't pay more then $6.00 for any of them. I like doing the projects in them and occasionally will share one in a post on here to get further feedback and/or instruction. 

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## mahi_Australia (Dec 27, 2016)

I found ' The Art of Digital photography by John Hedgecoe' at  a book store near my place. I think it is a good book to start for someone like me.


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## Derrel (Dec 27, 2016)

mahi_Australia said:


> I found ' The Art of Digital photography by John Hedgecoe' at  a book store near my place. I think it is a good book to start for someone like me.



YES!!!! John Hedgecoe was the first-ever full-time professor of photography at London's Royal College. As such, he was responsible for the education of thousands of students over the years, and countless hundreds of thousands of people have learned about the science and the craft of photography from his 32 books. I have not seen a better book format/layout than the way he organized his many books.

Leafing through any of his books, you will see "types" or "kinds" of photos that you'd like to make; his books show the reader how to MAKE those types of photographs. The diagrams, the illustrations, the concise text...just so,so good for the learner.


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## mahi_Australia (Dec 27, 2016)

Thanks for introducing me to his literature Derrel. Yesterday I tried taking some family photos and my idea was to take portrait type photos with background blurred. I tried playing with aperture settings but was unsuccessful not sure if my camera is equipped for that. Other thing i am becoming good at using ISO in low light conditions.


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## Derrel (Dec 27, 2016)

Well, honestly: the Canon Sx720 has a small-sized, but 20.3 million pixel sensor; due to the small physical size of the sensor, it will not do the in focus people/blurry backdrop type of pictures at close distances, the way say a 35mm SLR or a medium-format SLR would do, or a full-frame digitial SLR, or even a crop-frame d-slr. Buuuuuuut, on the other hand, the digicam type cameras can do somehting people have wanted to be able to do for over a hundred years, and that is to achieve "deep focus", with relative ease...without the need for split-diopter filters, or for camera movements with a view camera and the Schiempflug principle, or for stopping to to f/64.

What some might see as a dis-advantage, can easily become a major source of strength in scenic and landscape and social photography. Social photography, like on the street, or in a diner or restaurant, or at a carnival, etc.; the ability to have a SHARP, clear picture across a wide span of distancs, from fairly close, all the way to 50 meters, and out to nearly Infinity...THAT is the province of the digicam.

And also: the Sx720 has that ****incredibly long**** maximum zoom setting for a digicam. I recall taking a shot of my son and his mother from about 50 meters with her red 720...I was like, "WOW! This is one hell of a looooong zoom lens!" I mean, I would reckon it is like a 600 or 800mm equivalent on FX...it is a POWERFUL zoom....

So, focus on the strengths the camera has. If you absolutely WANT a defocused background on a portrait, learn the modern ways to do defocusing in software. But be aware that, for over 100 years or more, getting deep,deep focus was often a goal of many.


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## jcdeboever (Dec 27, 2016)

Get ready for some easy learning. Fun book...







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## mahi_Australia (Dec 27, 2016)

I think I got little bit of success playing with aperture and zoom settings on my camera..check the photo below and let me know if there is possibility of enhancement and I am on right path. I wanted a more close up shot but I thought it might disturb the quality. I still feel the photo is bit shaky...do you guys feel it or it's just me over thinking, I took it with hand. 




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## jcdeboever (Dec 27, 2016)

mahi_Australia said:


> Thanks for introducing me to his literature Derrel. Yesterday I tried taking some family photos and my idea was to take portrait type photos with background blurred. I tried playing with aperture settings but was unsuccessful not sure if my camera is equipped for that. Other thing i am becoming good at using ISO in low light conditions.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using ThePhotoForum.com mobile app


You can get the blurred backgrounds but you need to make the camera do it. It needs to be set in manual mode in order to accomplish it. Actually, the blurring with these types is very smooth and creamy. Typically, or generally speaking, the apeture needs to be close to it's largest setting. What I do is usually at the 70mm to 90 range, adjust my shutter to roughly 125 to 200s, and move the shutter to 2.8 or as close to it as I can to -0- exposure,  usually with max auto ISO set to a range of 100 to 800. If you fire a portrait shot in this range at or around the settings I listed, a beautiful background will be there.  Additionally, put the focus point on one of the eyes. Evaluative metering seems to work best on my SX60HS. You need to experiment with some dolls or objects. In good light, you may need to set the shutter speed a lot higher. Study depth of field, ISO, and apeture. 

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## jcdeboever (Dec 27, 2016)

mahi_Australia said:


> I think I got little bit of success playing with aperture and zoom settings on my camera..check the photo below and let me know if there is possibility of enhancement and I am on right path. I wanted a more close up shot but I thought it might disturb the quality. I still feel the photo is bit shaky...do you guys feel it or it's just me over thinking, I took it with hand. View attachment 132190
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using ThePhotoForum.com mobile app


Pretty good but typical for the camera. You need to practice breathing and be as steady as you can. If that was on a tripod, it would have been tack sharp. What mode were you in?

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## Derrel (Dec 27, 2016)

The bird: was it shot through a window? It's not really "shakey" I think...looks like either window glass or maybe optical quality starting to decrease a bit, or perhaps digital zoom? Again...the camera you have has a craaaaaaazy-long 40x optical and a 4x digital zoom, so 160x...


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## mahi_Australia (Dec 27, 2016)

I shot from my backyard open space...bird was few houses away sitting on top. I think the optical quality as mentioned by you is decreased a bit or the focus was was not set correctly may be...


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## mahi_Australia (Dec 27, 2016)

jcdeboever said:


> mahi_Australia said:
> 
> 
> > I think I got little bit of success playing with aperture and zoom settings on my camera..check the photo below and let me know if there is possibility of enhancement and I am on right path. I wanted a more close up shot but I thought it might disturb the quality. I still feel the photo is bit shaky...do you guys feel it or it's just me over thinking, I took it with hand. View attachment 132190
> ...



I was in sports mode setting and zoom, I was also expecting if bird fly I can catch the motion too. 


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## jcdeboever (Dec 28, 2016)

mahi_Australia said:


> jcdeboever said:
> 
> 
> > mahi_Australia said:
> ...



Pretty typical image quality for the long super zoom and no tripod. Sports mode is auto with increased shutter speed. Personally, Tv (camera decides aperture, you decide shutter speed) would have been the better choice and a shutter speed twice the speed of focal length; for example... if your lens was zoomed out to 600mm, you would probably go to 1000 or 1200, providing your camera goes beyond 1000. But it is a moot point because you didn't have the camera / lens stabilized.  That image is a prime example on the limitations of a digital zoom shooting hand held. My SX60HS is good hand held to about 300mm zoomed but you better be rock steady. The water color effect and chroma are typical of megapixel crammed, small sensors. You know your in digital zoom because the image in the viewfinder gets all jittery and uncontrollable.


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## mahi_Australia (Dec 30, 2016)

I took the below photo this morning....Chimes hanging in my front yard. I know it's not a good attractive photo, First time I tried manual mode on my camera With zoom. I was standing quite far other side of the road. I was expecting a brighter chimes in the photo but was not successful. 




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## photo1x1.com (Dec 30, 2016)

mahi_Australia said:


> I took the below photo this morning....Chimes hanging in my front yard. I know it's not a good attractive photo, First time I tried manual mode on my camera With zoom. I was standing quite far other side of the road. I was expecting a brighter chimes in the photo but was not successful. View attachment 132329
> Sent from my iPhone using ThePhotoForum.com mobile app



The chimes are in backlight, so the background is brighter than the chimes and eliminate the option to make the image even brighter. The only thing you can do is add some light to the foreground. That can be done by flash (if you are standing far away on the other road it can´t be the on camera flash though), or reflectors placed accordingly. Continuous lights would probably not work because they are not powerful enough to compete with the daylight. Another option would be to combine different exposures into one image in post production (called HDR).
If you are shooting RAW rather than jpg, you can also push the shadows and reduce the highlights a bit in software and get closer to what you actually saw.
You expected the chimes to be brighter because your brain is doing some "in camera processing" of everything you see . And in doing that it is much better than every camera in the world. So cameras have some limitations in regard to the so called dynamic range. If a scene contains extremely bright AND extremely dark parts, it cannot capture all the tones in one single image.


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## mahi_Australia (Dec 31, 2016)

HAPPY NEW YEAR 2017 to all. Wish you good luck and success in all your endeavors. Last night experimented with shutter priority mode...New Year eve fireworks in Adelaide. I was in awkward position to take good pics with so much crowd at the bridge.










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## jcdeboever (Dec 31, 2016)

mahi_Australia said:


> HAPPY NEW YEAR 2017 to all. Wish you good luck and success in all your endeavors. Last night experimented with shutter priority mode...New Year eve fireworks in Adelaide. I was in awkward position to take good pics with so much crowd at the bridge.View attachment 132460View attachment 132461View attachment 132462View attachment 132463
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using ThePhotoForum.com mobile app


Tripod

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## mahi_Australia (Dec 31, 2016)

jcdeboever said:


> mahi_Australia said:
> 
> 
> > HAPPY NEW YEAR 2017 to all. Wish you good luck and success in all your endeavors. Last night experimented with shutter priority mode...New Year eve fireworks in Adelaide. I was in awkward position to take good pics with so much crowd at the bridge.View attachment 132460View attachment 132461View attachment 132462View attachment 132463
> ...



No still with hand 



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## jcdeboever (Dec 31, 2016)

mahi_Australia said:


> jcdeboever said:
> 
> 
> > mahi_Australia said:
> ...


I know.lol. did you see the link I tagged you in, where I shot super low light using a tripod?

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## mahi_Australia (Dec 31, 2016)

jcdeboever said:


> mahi_Australia said:
> 
> 
> > jcdeboever said:
> ...



Yes i did...good info, the B&W photos right? 


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## jcdeboever (Dec 31, 2016)

mahi_Australia said:


> jcdeboever said:
> 
> 
> > mahi_Australia said:
> ...


Yes

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## mahi_Australia (Jan 2, 2017)

I have taken below photo this afternoon...I was may be 150 meters away from the subject. The first photo was taken in aperture priority 3.5 the maximum my camera allowed. The second phot was in portrait mode. First photo has the more clear color the rust compared to second photo. What more should have done to enhance the quality of the subject? I know my camera is point and shoot may be less capabilities. 





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## photo1x1.com (Jan 2, 2017)

The second image seems to "suffer" from lens flare - the sun entering the lens from an angle. The first one doesn´t. I assume that´s why the contrast in the first is better.
Regarding the aperture priority - is there a reason, why you set aperture to f3.5? Usually you would do that to separate an object from the background (blur the background), or when you don´t have enough light to prevent camera shake.
If you don´t need that, you´d better use a larger number, because at larger f-stops, the image quality in general increases (more sharpness, less vignetting,...). Image quality usually is best at around f8 to f11 before it decreases again.


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## jcdeboever (Jan 2, 2017)

I'm really happy your experimenting with the modes in your camera, that's how you learn the exposure triangle. 

These could be shot hand held but program auto would have been fine here. I use the program auto the majority of the time on my Canon P & S and we have similar camera's. Canon really does a good job in this mode with evaluative metering. Then all you need to do is bump your EC down to -1 or -2 or somewhere in between to dim the bright highlights (you can see in the histogram in camera). 

I see some camera shake from the digital zoom portion of the lens. Like I have mentioned, you are not going to get sharp shots without a tripod, no matter what mode your in, with the lens going into the digital zoom area as it's impossible to stabilize. You need to set, clamp, or tripod the camera on something. You will be amazed at the difference.


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## Derrel (Jan 2, 2017)

With a small-sensor digicam at 150 meters...I can see the movement of the car in the background...I cannot see any EXF information, but the blurring of the car at such a distance makes me thing the shutter speed is just a bit too slow. The second image? Looks to me like a teeny-tiny bit of image blurring. Not a lot, but the signs of it. Or, the limitaiton of the lens at that distance and setting. *Looks like, as JC says, signs of camera shake in photo #2.*

AGAIN...I have used your camera, and at long ranges the lens is a SUPER-TELE in length...the camera absolutely MUST be steady. it's a difficult camera to shoot, in my experience, at the longer zoom settings. it's a light-wright, small camera, and very hard to stabilize hand-held at long zoom.


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## mahi_Australia (Jan 4, 2017)

In love the Zoom on sx720 as said by Derrel  it's incredible. I shot the below photo from very far other side of the park. 

JC - I am still using hand  I am buying tripod this week will post more pics ) for comments. 





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## thereyougo! (Jan 4, 2017)

Still a bit soft and the highlights are blown.  It would be great to see some detail on the birds' feathers.  If you can spot meter for a brighter part of the scene you will get a faster shutter speed.  You might have deeper shadows, but I think this is better than completely blown out birds...


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## jcdeboever (Jan 4, 2017)

mahi_Australia said:


> In love the Zoom on sx720 as said by Derrel  it's incredible. I shot the below photo from very far other side of the park.
> 
> JC - I am still using hand  I am buying tripod this week will post more pics ) for comments.
> View attachment 132674
> ...


Missed focus by camera shake, blown highlights caused from extreme sun on a white subject. Not sure your mode. I would have started with getting exposure dialed in, then crank the EC down to -2 stops to start but probably looking at -3. Not an easy shot for a beginner let alone experienced. Also good to shoot scenes like this in raw to give you more latitude in adjusting the highlights. At quick glance, I would have probably been at f/8 (max for my P & S), 1000s, ISO 100, any metering, sunny WB, -3 EC. 

When you shoot hand held, keep arms tucked in, touching chest, focus (half way on shutter), exhale, gently squeeze to complete shutter.  

I suffer from bad hand tremors (head injuries, concussions) and I had to practice a lot. I printed out a focus target on photo paper and practised for a good month, every day for about an hour. Also used the tripod to compare hit and miss rates. Pretty revealing and helped me a great deal with manual film cameras with no stabilizer. 

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## mahi_Australia (Jan 4, 2017)

jcdeboever said:


> mahi_Australia said:
> 
> 
> > In love the Zoom on sx720 as said by Derrel  it's incredible. I shot the below photo from very far other side of the park.
> ...



Thank you guys...I will keep practicing. I appreciate your time in providing the feedback, looking forward for more. Cheers


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## mahi_Australia (Jan 7, 2017)

Took these photos this morning...it was bit cloudy, not sure what bird it is may be a parrot! Still using hand, they might be bit shaky. I am getting my Tripod delivered tomorrow, excited[emoji4]






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## photo1x1.com (Jan 7, 2017)

That's a Galah. One of the most clever birds in the world. Very common in Australia and because of his smartness rather popular as a pet in other parts of the world.
I love parrots and cockatoos, thanks for posting. Looking forward to more .
You need to work a little on your composition, both of them have a little too much headroom, while their leg and tails are cropped. You can sure crop to get the closest possible view, but don't leave too much room above the head.
And: be patient and wait for a better pose. Sure the bird may fly away, but sice you had your snapshots, you could then go for the special shots (maybe you did and it flew away, stupid me ).


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## mahi_Australia (Jan 8, 2017)

photo1x1.com said:


> That's a Galah. One of the most clever birds in the world. Very common in Australia and because of his smartness rather popular as a pet in other parts of the world.
> I love parrots and cockatoos, thanks for posting. Looking forward to more .
> You need to work a little on your composition, both of them have a little too much headroom, while their leg and tails are cropped. You can sure crop to get the closest possible view, but don't leave too much room above the head.
> And: be patient and wait for a better pose. Sure the bird may fly away, but sice you had your snapshots, you could then go for the special shots (maybe you did and it flew away, stupid me ).



Thanks for your advise photo1x1.com, appreciate it. I will follow them next time, yes I had few shots today like that bird flew away by the time I clicked the shot...lol[emoji3]


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## mahi_Australia (Jan 12, 2017)

Just an Auto mode shot...Botanic Gardens in Adelaide. I am going to a nearby Dolphin island on Sunday hopefully get some good Dolphin pics [emoji227] [emoji227] 






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## jcdeboever (Jan 12, 2017)

Nice color in both, might dial back the highlights a little in #1, on my phone the white dappeld light looks a little blown out. Composition seems pretty good. #2 is tilted a little, could be straightened a little. Overall, not bad. I find that program auto works very well on my SX60HS for most situations.


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## mahi_Australia (Feb 8, 2017)

I was back at Uni finishing my study...so wasn't spending much time with my camera. Below pic taken in AV mode yesterday at the Library. 







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