# Found My Old Flash



## mangorockfish (Feb 18, 2021)

Once upon a time I had to shoot a wedding for a good friend of mine.  As luck would have it, my flash died and I had to get a new one.  I went to the local photo/art store and bought what my budget, stretched a little, could handle.  I bought a Sunpack Auto 522.  I put some batteries in it, set it on auto and shot the wedding.  Every picture turned out great and the whites would knock your eyes out.  This was back in the early 80s as I recall.  Anyway, I found said flash and think I'm going to use it with my Mamyia 645 as opposed to buying a new flash to the tune of $300+.  Is this a viable plan or should I look into something more up to date?  I really don't use a flash that much.  Thanks in advance for your input and suggestions.


----------



## Space Face (Feb 18, 2021)

Test it out to see before you splash out.  If it gives you the results you're looking for then great.  If not, consider a new one.


----------



## ac12 (Feb 18, 2021)

If it work, go for it.  I use older flashes on my dSLRs.
My only concern is the sync voltage.
I don't know what the sync voltage is of the Sunpak 522, nor what the Mamiya 645 can handle.
I "think" the 645 will be OK with the 522.


----------



## mangorockfish (Feb 18, 2021)

The 522 and 645 were out about the same time, so I would think they would be compatible, but I'll check it out.


----------



## Sharpshooterr (Feb 27, 2021)

Mango, I had an old Sunpack. Don't remember the model. Pretty expensive in it's day. Had the bracket that screwed into the tripod mount with the tall battery column that took C cells and made a handle. 
I don't imagine that old camera has the capability to handle anything like ETTL or HHS? But if it does, I would certainly by a new one that could do all that!!!
SS


----------



## mangorockfish (Mar 1, 2021)

After reading a lot of posts about flashes having too much voltage I'm scared to use it with my 645.  Can any of you more experienced flash folks or 645 users recommend a different flash unit that won't break the bank?  I don't do much flash work, but would like to do more eventually using multiple units.


----------



## Sharpshooterr (Mar 2, 2021)

Mango, about ten years ago on a Forum I was on, someone had posted a link to a site where the author had undertaken a project to make a pretty complete list of older flashes and the voltage each one produced and the voltage used by the cameras as well.
I don't think it would take a lot of searching/googling to find that list or one like it. 
You might start by posting or emailing on the Strobist.
Only a guess but most non-digital cameras probably operate on the higher voltages but that's only a hunch! Maybe those here that live to Google could come to the rescue!!! Good luck
SS


----------



## mrca (Mar 2, 2021)

I had an old Vivitar flash from 1978 I used on film cameras.  When I got a nikon d200 in 2005 I did some checking and many of the old flashes had so much voltage back into a digital camera it would toast it. If you plan on off camera flash work and plug in a trigger to the flash and a sender in the hot shoe, you can trigger multiple flashes and not expose your digital camera.  Strobist web site might have some info for you.


----------



## JBPhotog (Mar 3, 2021)

mangorockfish said:


> The 522 and 645 were out about the same time, so I would think they would be compatible, but I'll check it out.



I think you would be right, potato masher flashes and film cameras were the status quo of the 1980’s. I don’t think you will have any voltage issues with that combo but OCF is the way to go these days and wireless triggers are pretty cheap so personally I’d go that route. Besides, you would be able to use it with your digital cameras without concern.


----------



## smoke665 (Mar 3, 2021)

According to this Photo Strobe Trigger Voltages the sync voltage of the 555 is 4.7 to 6.9 volts. Modern electronics are more susceptible to damage from high sync  voltage than the older mechanical cameras, but even with them there might be some risk. I've used older speed lights on occasion with no problem, but there's risk involved in the unknown so do your homework.


----------



## JBPhotog (Mar 3, 2021)

FWIW, I regularly used a Vivitar 283 on my Nikon F2A and F3 without issues with a measured trigger voltage of +300v both hotshot and sync cord. Additionally, my Speedotron Black Line packs were directly connected to the sync socket of my Nikon's Hasselblads and Rodenstock LF lenses back in the film days.

However, once I switched to digital I did use a Wein Safe Sync and Pocket Wizards and no longer directly connected any of that equipment to my cameras which I think is the best practise for protecting equipment and reducing a tripping hazard, lol.


----------



## mrca (Mar 4, 2021)

JB, my 283 worked fine with my nikon and pentax film cameras.   But the risk of turning a $3000 camera into a paper weight isn't worth the gamble for me.   I have several SB 80's but used them for OCF as they are easily concealable.


----------



## JBPhotog (Mar 4, 2021)

mrca said:


> JB, my 283 worked fine with my nikon and pentax film cameras.   But the risk of turning a $3000 camera into a paper weight isn't worth the gamble for me.   I have several SB 80's but used them for OCF as they are easily concealable.



Yes mine too, that's why I never used the Vivitar's with any digital cameras. According to the link smoke665 posted, the SB-80's are fine with digital camera circuitry.


----------



## smoke665 (Mar 4, 2021)

@JBPhotog . Just be sure to read my disclaimer " there's risk involved in the unknown so do your homework". I might try one based off information from the link on an old K30 body I have, but doubt that I'd take chances on the K1MII.


----------



## JBPhotog (Mar 4, 2021)

Yes and if you have a good digital multi meter you can measure the trigger voltage yourself.


----------



## JBPhotog (Mar 8, 2021)

FYI, just came across this on Nikon's website.

"D-SLR's require a "tip positive" sync connection to an external strobe units. On some external strobe units the sync polarity is easy to change because they use the "household" type plug. If the strobes do not fire, simply turn the plug around and insert it with the male pin connectors in the other holes. Other types of connectors (such as the standard "phono" plug) are not generally changeable by the user.

Warning: Negative voltages or voltages over 250 V applied to the camera's sync terminal could not only prevent normal operation, but may damage the sync circuit of the camera or flash. Check with the strobe manufacturer for voltage specifications."


----------



## mangorockfish (Mar 21, 2021)

I've almost convinced myself that there are plenty of subjects out there to shoot without flash to risk blowing MY cameras up.  I'll just use my wife's Nikon with built-in flash if I find it absolutely necessary to shoot a flash picture.


----------



## burgesssally787 (Apr 13, 2021)

if you really don't use your flash as often, then I don't think it's worth buying a new one. but I think it is necessary to conduct a couple of tests to check how it works now in different conditions


----------



## FrancisM (Apr 24, 2021)

I think the new flash was better, but if your flash was ok, u can use it


----------



## Dale H. Cook (Jun 27, 2021)

JBPhotog said:


> FWIW, I regularly used a Vivitar 283 on my Nikon F2A and F3 without issues with a measured trigger voltage of +300v both hotshot and sync cord.



The 283 is still a fairly popular flash. I own three of them and have begun to use use one for experiments in artificial-light gravestone photography. I have also begun to experiment with portrait photography using two or three of them. Late-model 283s have shoe voltages compataible with sensitive DSLRs. but mine don't - they are all original Japanese models. Although I use mine off-camera I do use them with wireless triggers which, like many DSLRs, cannot handle ~280 volts on the shoe. I have modified all three of mine to put 5 volts on the shoe.


----------

