# Exposure compensation explanation/help



## PropilotBW (Nov 17, 2015)

I guess I have a novice question.  I have rarely used exposure compensation in my photography thus far.  It's probably due to a lack of understanding.  I understand the concept of E.C. tricking the camera into creating brighter or darker exposures for a specific scene.  
What I don't understand is how this technique differs from just increasing or decreasing exposure in post processing?   I started to believe they create the same results.  If I'm wrong, please let me know so I can improve!
I have been taking portraits more frequently and I am just trying to understand the tools available to me.   
Thanks!


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## jl1975 (Nov 17, 2015)

While you can adjust your exposure in post, getting it correct in camera is usually better.  If you have a shot that is under/over exposed, you may be able to adjust it.  However, if you get it correct in the first place you won't run the risk of losing details in the shadows or blowing out the highlights.  Once you get too dark or too bright, you may not be able to recover those details.


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## The_Traveler (Nov 17, 2015)

'Fixing' the exposure in PPing is possible but not always acceptable.
And inevitably what you are ECing for is in the shadows and try to correct that in post means increasing noise.
Example: shooting a street scene with brilliant overhead sun.
The desired correctly exposed area is the face under the brim.
Because of the general brightness the face will be well under-exposed and more noisy than optimal.
EC+ or ++ so that you lighten the shadows under the brim and give yourself the exposure and detail you need without excessive noise.

Example: note the bright overhead sun yet the faces under brims of hat are exposed enough to get decent detail.
Shot at +stop overexposure with Oly 5 and Panasonic 12-35


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## Ysarex (Nov 17, 2015)

Because EC effects the camera exposure which determines what you record with the sensor. Post processing can't alter what the sensor captures -- it can only work with what you've got.

Joe


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## DB_Cro (Nov 18, 2015)

I wouldn't worry about exp. comp., I never used it, I shoot full manual.


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## JoeW (Nov 18, 2015)

Depending upon what you shoot, you may find very few times you need it.  Or it may come essential.  

For instance, if you shoot in situations with high dynamic range (some is backlit, lots of high contrast, heavy shadow), it's invaluable.  If you shoot in situations where it's very easy for there to be "hot spots" or blownout parts of the photo if over-exposed, it's invaluable.  If you're trying to do more than just record a setting but instead make a picture, then the ability to manipulate the light exposure will be invaluable.  If you shoot at extremes (say...indoor athletics where there is poor light and fast movement), it can be useful.

And no, you can't always fix it in post.  For instance, if you shoot a picture of a young child holding a puppy and you spot meter on the puppy, the "correct exposure" by the camera results in a blownout face with the child.  Trying to fix that in post is impossible.  Or another simpler example is this:  you take a picture and look at the back of your camera to see if you "got it."  If you're relying on post, what you see on your display screen will be, inevitably, an incomplete picture--you won't be able to tell if it's good enough or if you need to reshoot.  Last of all, getting this element right in-camera is substantially faster than fixing it in post-production.


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## jaomul (Nov 18, 2015)

EC is a great fast way of brightening or darkening a scene without having to adjust your primary settings.

In aperture priority for example you may not care what ss as long as it's fast enough to handhold but you may want a specific iso but don't want the hassle of full manual.

You take your shot but the camera meters dark or light for your taste and ec compensates quickly and easily, over riding the camera meters setting to what you want. It does this by altering the ss, if you are in speed priority it does so by altering the aperture.

Altering in pp is changing what the camera records, so there may be a little degrading of image quality, ec can allow changes of a few stops quickly and effective


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## PropilotBW (Nov 18, 2015)

DB_Cro said:


> I wouldn't worry about exp. comp., I never used it, I shoot full manual.



I rarely use manual mode.  Just trying to understand A and S priority to its fullest


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## jaomul (Nov 18, 2015)

When you understand A and S mode manual will be self explanatory. Shooting manual mode is a choice, but not a cut and dry necessity. I understand manual shooting but don't use it much, but I'm just a hobbyist, however a lot of pros if you read up about them also don't shoot manual, so it's whatever suits the individual


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## DB_Cro (Nov 18, 2015)

Try shooting a concert in A or S 

IMHO, learning what exposure comp does will be more confusing then going over
to full manual and learning that. When you understand the exposure triangle you'll
learn to get better shots in either mode. When the need for exposure comp presents
itself, it's easier (IMO) to switch over to manual and set the exposure properly.

Do that more then a few times and you'll never end up going out of manual again.


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## tirediron (Nov 18, 2015)

JoeW said:


> Depending upon what you shoot, you may find very few times you need it.  Or it may come essential.
> 
> For instance, if you shoot in situations with high dynamic range (some is backlit, lots of high contrast, heavy shadow), it's invaluable.  If you shoot in situations where it's very easy for there to be "hot spots" or blownout parts of the photo if over-exposed, it's invaluable.  If you're trying to do more than just record a setting but instead make a picture, then the ability to manipulate the light exposure will be invaluable.  If you shoot at extremes (say...indoor athletics where there is poor light and fast movement), it can be useful.
> 
> And no, you can't always fix it in post.  For instance, if you shoot a picture of a young child holding a puppy and you spot meter on the puppy, the "correct exposure" by the camera results in a blownout face with the child.  Trying to fix that in post is impossible.  Or another simpler example is this:  you take a picture and look at the back of your camera to see if you "got it."  If you're relying on post, what you see on your display screen will be, inevitably, an incomplete picture--you won't be able to tell if it's good enough or if you need to reshoot.  Last of all, getting this element right in-camera is substantially faster than fixing it in post-production.


 This, exactly!  EC is simply another tool in the box.  It's not particularily useful in full manual (and depending on your brand of camera may not even do anything in manual), but it can be as Joe mentions very useful in other modes.  For instance, the running shots I was doing for a local theatre production recently.  The LD is using two white follow-spots and a lot of blue, red, and yellow/orange overheads.  Because the main character is dressed all in white, and the background (and many of the supporting cast) are dressed in blacks/darks, and because due to the lighting I chose to shoot in shutter priority, using 1/3 - 1/2 stop of EC was necessary, or I would have hundreds of images of a blown out Tommy. 

EC is nothing more than a way of telling the camera (when in auto or semi-auto modes) that you want things a little brighter or darker than it thinks they should be.  That's all.


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## tirediron (Nov 18, 2015)

DB_Cro said:


> Try shooting a concert in A or S
> 
> IMHO, learning what exposure comp does will be more confusing then going over
> to full manual and learning that. When you understand the exposure triangle you'll
> ...


 Really?  Sorry.  Not buying it.  To use the example of the play once again....  Yes, I could have shot it in manual and not bothered with EC, HOWEVER...  metering every single shot is not reasonable given the fast pace of the script, and the even faster changing of the stage lighting.  I knew that I wanted at least 1/160 to freeze all but the fastest character movement, as well as to compensate for any camera movement when shooting at 200mm.  I also knew that the lighting could change by as much as 9 stops almost instantly.  Therefore, shutter priority seemed like the only sensible option, and because I needed to account for a bright, white costume, -1/3  -1/2 of EC was critical to the final exposure.

Shooting landscapes, or in the studio?  Yep, 100% manual all day, every day.  Going walkabout in a strange city and shooting for my own amusement?  Auto every time.  That way I know I'm sure to get at least an okay image; if there's time, I'll take charge and modify settings as necessary.  For other things, AP or SP.  Saying that one should use one exposure mode all the time is like a carpenter saying, "Always use a cross-cut saw.  Don't worry about the other types.  A cross-cut saw will always do the job."  Yes, it will, but will it always do the best job?  I would respectfully submit that it would not.


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## astroNikon (Nov 18, 2015)

How does EC differ from adjusting ISO ?
From JoeW's description it's more related to manipulating the Dynamic Range capabilities.

Is it less noisy than ISO in particular situations ?
such as if at ISO 6400 and it's not quite enough, would upping EC be better than pushing ISO up ?


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## KmH (Nov 18, 2015)

Not mentioned so far is that since DSLRs are mass produces consumer goods not all of a make/model meter the light such that each camera reports the exposure exactly the same.
Some cameras will under or over expose a bit, from 1/3 EV to 1 EV and we can keep EC set to compensate for that every time we release the shutter.
If it is more than 1 EV the camera should be sent in to be re-calibrated.

Note that good handheld light meters report exposure readings in 1/10 EV steps, but DSLRs report EV with less accurate 1/3 EV steps.


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## JoeW (Nov 18, 2015)

When I use EC on my Nikon, it's not like resetting ISO.  I end up with an exposure that my auto exposure or light meter would have told me is too dark or too light....but I intentionally wanted to do that b/c I wanted the focus on a subject's face (and don't care if the background is all black...vs. a dark background that shows detail but a face that is blown out due to over-exposure).

I used to shoot all manual.  My eyes are no longer good enough for that.  I have to use autofocus for a lot of shots...it's simply much more accurate than my eyesight or my judge of distance.  Tirediron is spot-on regarding this issues--for a bunch of concepts (light painting or long exposures or landscapes) I'll be entirely or mostly manual.  But for stuff where focus needs to be quick, it may involve distance or fast action, I find myself going aperture priority a lot of times.  I'm not trying to argue against the value of shooting manual.  I'm simply saying that for a lot of instances, it just isn't that workable for me.  Additionally, for outdoor portraits with high dynamic range or for shooting in snow or white sand (where the reflection lies to your camera), I'm using EC probably 50% of the time at minimum.

Finally, the reason why photography can be an ART rather than just a technique or a craft is b/c there are many ways to approach creating a picture.  Let's look at a hypothetical example.  3 photographers approach a landscape setting of a creek, valley, some hills and great color as the sun starts to set.  One says "I'm going to set my camera on my tripod, wide-angle lens, polarizing filter to grab the clouds in the sky...long exposure so the sky gets an interesting pattern and the creek in the foreground turns in to a blur, let's go f22 on this baby....this is going to be a beautiful landscape."  Second photographer says "I want to use my 200mm zoom and focus in on the woman laying down next to the creek and capture her reflection in the water...use a narrow DoF...definitely a lovely mood shot of a person playing in nature."  Third photographer says "I want to capture the color in the sky, I'm going to use my EC for a faster shutter speed and play with my WB.  Emphasis is on the sky with just a hint of the land.  I may screw on a GND filter to help me achieve this.  Shooting with my trusty 85mm lens."  And they all got great photos...b/c they all looked at the setting and created a picture (of their own vision) by deciding what visual rules to apply and what camera technology to use (and what to ignore).  There is no ONE RIGHT WAY.  This thing we call photography becomes an art when you consciously make choices as to what artistic composition rules you follow (and which you ignore) and how you choose to use your camera.  So, you should know how to use EC.  And depending upon what you shoot and how you shoot, you may use it continuously.  Or almost never.


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## The_Traveler (Nov 18, 2015)

tirediron said:


> EC is nothing more than a way of telling the camera (when in auto or semi-auto modes) that you want things a little brighter or darker than it thinks they should be. That's all





astroNikon said:


> How does EC differ from adjusting ISO ?
> From JoeW's description it's more related to manipulating the Dynamic Range capabilities.
> 
> Is it less noisy than ISO in particular situations ?
> such as if at ISO 6400 and it's not quite enough, would upping EC be better than pushing ISO up ?



What TiredIron said is exactly on target.
You are adjusting the exposure to be different than what the camera suggests.
If you are shooting in any mode but manual, then the camera will adjust the shutter speed or aperture to comply with your selection of aperture or shutter speed.
Using EC tells teh camera to do something different - because you think the camera's decision won't be correct.

The noise in the image depend on the iso and sensor combination and the amount of light the sensor gets, so your EC can effect the noise but that is not your primary concern.


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## Ysarex (Nov 18, 2015)

astroNikon said:


> How does EC differ from adjusting ISO ?
> From JoeW's description it's more related to manipulating the Dynamic Range capabilities.
> 
> Is it less noisy than ISO in particular situations ?
> such as if at ISO 6400 and it's not quite enough, would upping EC be better than pushing ISO up ?



EC and ISO adjustment are very different. In both cases there's a tacit assumption that you're using the camera in an auto or semi-auto mode where the camera is able to alter shutter speed and/or f/stop.

A +EC adjustment then would cause the shutter speed to slow and/or the f/stop to open resulting in more exposure of the sensor = brightened image.
A -EC adjustment then would cause the shutter speed to speed up and/or the f/stop to close down resulting in less exposure of the sensor = darkened image.

When ISO is changed on a camera working in auto or semi-auto modes shutter speed and/or f/stop are altered but the ISO change also alters signal gain = constant image brightness maintained.

As a rule EC will alter shutter speed and/or f/stop to in fact alter exposure but depending on the camera make/model and design there's the possibility that EC could in fact alter ISO. My camera (well designed) won't permit that but others may. If the camera for example has reached a shutter speed limit and the lens is already wide open the camera (auto ISO enabled) could then use the ISO signal gain to brighten the image -- dangerous territory there as it can lead to twisted thinking. Next thing you know someone will suggest that ISO is in fact an exposure determinant.

If ISO 6400 wasn't quite enough you'd either raise ISO or use a -EC. Depending on the camera make/model you'll either get the same noise (but darker image from the -EC) or less noise from a further ISO increase.

Joe


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## astroNikon (Nov 18, 2015)

Thanks, I understand that now in A/S/P modes

(Manual question) So looking at my d600 user book
It has a description for when in Manual mode


> In mode M, exposure compensation affects only the exposure indicator; shutter speed and aperture do not change.


Thus am I to assume that it only changes the indicator but actually doesn't change anything when I'm in Manual ?


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## Ysarex (Nov 18, 2015)

astroNikon said:


> Thanks, I understand that now in A/S/P modes
> 
> (Manual question) So looking at my d600 user book
> It has a description for when in Manual mode
> ...



You can only alter exposure in manual mode manually. Nikon is I believe unique in this: In manual mode Nikon applies the EC to the meter output so that adjusting shutter and/or f/stop to center the meter will in effect apply the EC. On my Fuji for example EC has no effect on anything when the camera is in manual.

Joe


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## petrochemist (Nov 18, 2015)

DB_Cro said:


> I wouldn't worry about exp. comp., I never used it, I shoot full manual.


If you shoot manually you ARE effectively using exposure compensation as you're setting the camera for conditions other than 18% grey.


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## SquarePeg (Nov 18, 2015)

tirediron said:


> I knew that I wanted at least 1/160 to freeze all but the fastest character movement, as well as to compensate for any camera movement when shooting at 200mm. I also knew that the lighting could change by as much as 9 stops almost instantly. Therefore, shutter priority seemed like the only sensible option, and because I needed to account for a bright, white costume, -1/3 -1/2 of EC was critical to the final exposure.



This is a very nice look into the thought process that you used and really helps to understand what you were doing and why.  Very helpful to look at it with a specific example of real life circumstances.


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## petrochemist (Nov 18, 2015)

astroNikon said:


> How does EC differ from adjusting ISO ?


It depends on what mode you're in. 
Unless you have auto ISO set, in Av it will adjust the shutter speed exactly by the amount set in EC, and in Sv it will adjust the aperture.


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## Patrice (Nov 18, 2015)

DB_Cro said:


> I wouldn't worry about exp. comp., I never used it, I shoot full manual.



How is this a helpful answer to the original question?


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## soufiej (Nov 19, 2015)

PropilotBW said:


> I guess I have a novice question.  I have rarely used exposure compensation in my photography thus far.  It's probably due to a lack of understanding.  I understand the concept of E.C. tricking the camera into creating brighter or darker exposures for a specific scene.
> What I don't understand is how this technique differs from just increasing or decreasing exposure in post processing?   I started to believe they create the same results.  If I'm wrong, please let me know so I can improve!
> I have been taking portraits more frequently and I am just trying to understand the tools available to me.
> Thanks!



_"I rarely use manual mode. Just trying to understand A and S priority to its fullest."

_
Well, of course, the first best step to comprehending your camera's operation is to sit down with the manual and the camera and begin taking test shots based upon the manual's information.  If you've not yet done that, that's where you should begin.  

If you are not yet fully on line with the exposure triangle, read information which explains the three legged stool approach to proper exposure and relative exposure values.  In basic physic class you may have learned three points define a plane which will always try to level itself.  You can change the value of one point though the other two points will compensate in order to achieve balance.  This is how exposure operates with your camera.  

As noted, your "correct" exposure for any one scene is that set of values which will result in the least amount of over and under exposed areas within the frame.  If you have not yet introduced yourself to your camera's* histogram*, find it and learn how to use it as your best tool for judging proper exposure for any given scene and metering mode.  

Histogram - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia



Your initial question regarding the adjustment of relative exposure values in post production depends heavily on how the histogram of the completed image appears.  Once highlights are over exposed (blown out), it's very difficult to extract detail from those areas.  Once the under exposure of blacks becomes too pronounced (they run off the left side of the histogram), extracting adequate detail from those areas becomes tedious and often fruitless work.  

Relying on the histogram for proper exposure will provide you one more important tool in your kit.  It is arguably the single most advantageous tool your digital camera provides.



When viewing the histogram, adjust the exposure compensation dial and notice the change in the look of the histogram.  Then observe what exposure values have changed with your camera with each change in exposure compensation.  

*There are only three values to adjust for exposure so notice which values change with exposure compensation on your camera.  Try this experiment with your camera set to one exposure value of, say, 100 and then repeat the experiment with the camera set to auto-ISO*.  

Realize you could have done the same by changing those same values manually but you are using a semi-automatic mode so the camera does the appropriate adjustments for you with the twist of a dial.  

Before you leave this scene though, also *change the metering value of your camera.*  Unless you are shooting a scene of monochromatic value entirely made up of one single brightness value, when you change the metering mode you will also change the look of the histogram.  

Place the camera on the equivalent to spot metering, it's most tightly defined metering position, and move the aim of the lens around the scene as you observe the histogram.  You'll see the shape of the histogram change as the metering of the system reads various levels of brightness or color.  Half click your shutter release at various locations within the frame and you'll again notice how the camera's systems alter the exposure values to achieve a "proper" exposure given the data the system is taking in.  

While you may not entirely grasp the data the histogram is providing at this point, this is how your camera operates.   There is, in reality, no single correct exposure value for any scene.  There are, in fact, numerous usable exposure values for any scene based upon the instructions you provide the camera.  

It is your job as a photographer (shooting in something other than full automatic mode) to determine how best to adjust your camera to achieve in-camera what you see in your mind as the shot.  







If you are now ready to explore aperture and shutter priority modes, try two experiments.  

The first is for aperture and it involves you in a fixed position and a scene with three subjects in the frame.  A street scene can work though what you require is a scene with three subjects; one very near field, one mid field and one a good distance from the camera/lens.  

It's best to use a tripod if there's one available.  This will allow you to lock the camera in one position as you make adjustments.  

With the camera in this one position begin with the camera at its widest aperture setting and take a series of three shots.  One shot will be with the camera focused on the closest object.  Then one focused on the mid-distance object and finally on the farthest away object.  Move the aperture value progressively towards its smallest setting and shoot the same scene in the same sequence after each change.  

Afterwards, observe what the camera does in relation to depth of field and focus in each image.  

Changing shutter speed is very much the same experiment though now you want moving objects which are all at roughly the same mid-way distance away from the lens.  A busy intersection is good for this.  

Begin with the longer shutter speeds and shoot an image of a car moving through the intersection.  Gradually begin to increase the shutter speed as you continue to shoot images of cars moving through the frame.    You will notice that motion is frozen after about 1/250 of a second shutter speed.  Beneath that value motion is increasingly burred.  



If in these two experiments you have not set your camera to auto ISO and have maintained the same metering setting throughout, you will also notice the relationships between aperture, shutter and ISO.   There is only a small group of values which combine to make an acceptable exposure.  Once you   adjust one, the other two will attempt to find their own balance.   If you've locked the camera into one ISO value, then the remaining two will compensate.    

Looking at the images on your camera's LCD or on your computer monitor, pay attention to the histogram and the shot data for each image.  This should give you a better understanding of how these three values work.

Hope that helps.


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## PropilotBW (Nov 19, 2015)

soufiej said:


> PropilotBW said:
> 
> 
> > I guess I have a novice question.  I have rarely used exposure compensation in my photography thus far.  It's probably due to a lack of understanding.  I understand the concept of E.C. tricking the camera into creating brighter or darker exposures for a specific scene.
> ...




Thanks for your reply.  That was quite in depth and helpful information to try out.


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## DB_Cro (Nov 19, 2015)

petrochemist said:


> DB_Cro said:
> 
> 
> > I wouldn't worry about exp. comp., I never used it, I shoot full manual.
> ...



True.



Patrice said:


> DB_Cro said:
> 
> 
> > I wouldn't worry about exp. comp., I never used it, I shoot full manual.
> ...



It's more help long term when you think about it then explaining what EC does since it's a crutch for people who
are scared of shooting in full manual. When you learn the exposure triangle and start shooting in manual you'll
wonder why you even bothered using EC.

I'm sure some will be offended by this but.. I was too few years ago.

Going one step back, some people get offended when you suggest they stop using the "running man" or "portrait" mode
on their cameras and try A or S. Basically the same thing.


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## tirediron (Nov 19, 2015)

DB_Cro said:


> It's more help long term when you think about it then explaining what EC does since it's a crutch for people who
> are scared of shooting in full manual. When you learn the exposure triangle and start shooting in manual you'll
> wonder why you even bothered using EC.
> 
> ...


 What are you smoking, and why haven't you shared with the rest of us?  "Exposure compensation is a "crutch" for people scared of shooting on full manual"????  In what universe?  I'm not insulted, nor offended, but I am aboslutely astonished that someone could say with [I assume] a straight face, something so utterly ridiculous.  Exposure compensation is a tool which has specific uses and has been on cameras virtually since the advent of automated exposure. 

Shooting in manual has its place, but so do AP/Av and SP/Tv.  Program is useful as well.  I'm glad that you are so much more accomplished than am I, and that you're able to adjust for every possible nuance of a situation, regardless of how dynamic it is.  I certainly can't do that, but I only picked up a camera 35 years ago (give or take). 

You disagreed with my earlier assertion on this topic - and while you're free to express your opinion by using 'Disagree', I would be most intereted in hearing you articulate exactly why you feel that your position is the only valid one.  Can I also assume that you use only manual focus since AF would be an equally amateur crutch....


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## DB_Cro (Nov 19, 2015)

Since these semi-auto modes sometimes don't give the desired results, EC is there to help, i.e. a crutch.
It's exactly that, not an opinion, purely objective. It's a helping tool, like, again, a crutch.
More to do with understanding English (which is not my native language) then photography.

If you use full manual mode, you don't need (or have) it, since you have full control over the exposure, so why not just
learn to manually expose in every situation and not bother learning to use EC? Only benefit of using EC over manual is
not being able to react fast enough in manual and/or not being skilled enough to guess the settings when you walk into
the room.

Using these semi-auto modes you'll be stuck at that level of understanding available light and proper exposure forever.
Focusing is a completely different subject and you know it is.


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## tirediron (Nov 19, 2015)

DB_Cro said:


> Since these semi-auto modes sometimes don't give the desired results, EC is there to help, i.e. a crutch.
> It's exactly that, not an opinion, purely objective. It's a helping tool, like, again, a crutch.
> More to do with understanding English (which is not my native language) then photography.


First and foremost, my apologies; I hadn't actully looked at your location and since your "written" English is better than that of many native English speakers, I had assumed, that to be the case.  Therefore, I withdraw my objection to your use of the word 'crutch'.



DB_Cro said:


> If you use full manual mode, you don't need (or have) it, since you have full control over the exposure, so why not just learn to manually expose in every situation and not bother learning to use EC? Only benefit of using EC over manual is not being able to react fast enough in manual and/or not being skilled enough to guess the settings when you walk into the room.


  I am perfectly willing to put my skill, experience and knowlege up against almost anyone here, and I know that there are situations in which the use of EC is appropriate.  Again, in my earlier post, I cited the use of AP in combination with a specific set of conditions.  Please explain to me why you feel that it would have been done in manual!



DB_Cro said:


> Using these semi-auto modes you'll be stuck at that level of understanding available light and proper exposure forever.  Focusing is a completely different subject and you know it is.


Again, I would like to think that my understanding of light, exposure and most other basic photographic theory is fairly good; I seem to be able to use these modes, as well as manual without too many issues.  As far as focusing, why do you feel that using automated focusing is so vastly different than automated exposure?


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## petrochemist (Nov 19, 2015)

There are times when the semi auto modes don't give the desired results, but they are fairly rare, and experienced photographers will usually known in advance, and switch to manual. There are very few occasions where both the shutter speed & aperture are critical and must be precise values.
EC allows the photographer to access the desired result compared to the default average 18% and control the camera to get the results he wants. It's no more of a crutch than the light meter is.

Automatic focusing may be a different subject, but the camera doesn't always get it right, and there are times when you need to override it to get the results you want. I myself would consider it more of a crutch than EC. I freely use it as well, but know that under certain conditions it's better to just switch it off. The similarities seem fairly obvious to me.


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## Derrel (Nov 19, 2015)

Exposure compensation is a fast and easy way to compensate for strong backlighting or other instances of lighting that's fooling the light metering system, or where the desired exposure needs to be significantly altered from what the meter reading is giving. In strong backlighting, with a person seen against say the late afternoon sunlight hitting a wide expanse of open ocean or lake, with shorter focal length lenses, some Plus EC is often helpful, say +2.5 EV for example. If the lens has a very tight, telephoto angle of view, the degree of needed EC is often going to be much less than with a wide-angle lens. A 300mm lens from say 15 feet away acts almost like a semi-spot meter when aimed at a person's face, and the metered exposure might very likely deliver a good, solid exposure. However, if you stand in the same place and point the camera at the person with all that backlighting over open water, and the lens is a 28mm lens from 15 feet...there's a huge chance that you'd be wise to ADD some more exposure to the metered reading....like +2.0 or + 2.3, or even plus 2.5 EV, or maybe even plus 3.0 EV.

The degree of exposure compensation needed varies quite a bit with the lens angle of view, and with individual scene types. The wider the lens angle of view, or the more extreme the situation is, the more chance there will be a need for a substantial amount of EC to get the metered reading to produce the  desired result in terms of final exposure settings.

A good example is a speaker who is spot-lighted, standing at a podium, and behind is a dark, deep blue or red velvet stage curtain...or behind is a dim, PowerPoint presentation image...in this case, the light meter will tend to grossly OVER-expose the subject, and this is when dialing in maybe Minus 3.0 EV or so is about the right starting point from a center-weighted meter's baseline reading. Again, with a 50mm lens, you might need Minus 5.0 EV; with a 135mm lens, maybe Minus 3.0 EV; with a 400mm, you might only need Minus 0.7 EV. Again...what the meter "sees" and what the subject "is" varies, scene by scene.

With a digital camera, it's easy to shoot a shot using the light meter as your guide, then review the image, and add or subtract Exposure COmpensation as-needed, to get the results you want, with the meter "centered" in Manual, or in Aperture, SHutter, or Programmed automatic modes.


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## Ysarex (Nov 19, 2015)

DB_Cro said:


> Since these semi-auto modes sometimes don't give the desired results, EC is there to help, i.e. a crutch.
> It's exactly that, not an opinion, purely objective. It's a helping tool, like, again, a crutch.
> More to do with understanding English (which is not my native language) then photography.
> 
> ...



So you don't use the metering system in the camera at all, correct? How do you determine exposure?

Joe


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## astroNikon (Nov 19, 2015)

For me the Auto modes rarely give me the desired results.  
So I stick to Manual so I can control the Aperture and Shutter speed.  I've found that the best solution for the situations I'm in.


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## Ysarex (Nov 19, 2015)

DB_Cro said:


> If you use full manual mode, you don't need (or have) it, since you have full control over the exposure, so why not just
> learn to manually expose in every situation and not bother learning to use EC?



Speed. Getting to the point of tripping the shutter release sooner. Maybe only a decisive moment sooner, but that much sooner can make all the difference in the world.



DB_Cro said:


> Only benefit of using EC over manual is not being able to react fast enough in manual......



See, you already knew the answer.



DB_Cro said:


> Using these semi-auto modes you'll be stuck at that level of understanding available light and proper exposure forever.



That's ridiculous nonsense. When I use my camera in Program Auto mode I fully understand what I'm doing and I have just as much ability (within in reason) to control exposure with shutter speed and f/stop as you do shooting in M; I'm just faster than you.

Joe


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## runnah (Nov 19, 2015)

I like to think of EC as my little revolt against the machines. 

"Take that metering machine! Man still knows best!"

But yeah, it's very useful if you know when and how to use it.


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## PropilotBW (Nov 20, 2015)

Manual mode is a crutch, for me.  I'd rather have the camera figure out as much as possibly and tweak it if I don't like what it's giving me.  I will play around with some EC during my next shoot to see how the results fare


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## Bebulamar (Nov 20, 2015)

I never use the EC. When I need to set exposure different from the meter I switch to manual. It's just easier for me that way.


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## DanOstergren (Nov 22, 2015)

Someone may have already said this, but I personally feel that if you want an "under exposed" image, you should still capture the image at the "correct" exposure, and then bring the exposure down in post production. The reason I do this is so that the exposure captures as much detail as possible to begin with, and when you bring the exposure down in post you are less likely to have locked shadows.


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## AlanKlein (Nov 22, 2015)

You can't make a silk purse from a sow's ear.


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