# building a darkroom



## JonnyVPA (Jan 29, 2007)

okay, so im being given a bunch of darkroom equipment, canisters, an enlarger, and so forth.... 

Now its been a while since highschool photography class and alot of that has slipped my mind.

What do I need to build a small darkroom, in terms of equipment, chemicals, and so forth.

i have a relatively large space in my basement to do so including a sink and refrigerator.... 

so any help will be greatly appreciated... thank you


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## nealjpage (Jan 30, 2007)

My darkroom (for film processing) consists of a tank, two reels, a graduated cylinder, a thermometer, a stirring paddle, and the needed chemicals (D76, fixer, PhotoFlo) to process B&W film.

I'm still working on a system for prints...

Good luck!


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## terri (Jan 30, 2007)

oooo, I envy you the running water! That will certainly make mixing chemistries and print washing convenient. 

Sounds like you've been given the main equipment. If your enlarger is in perfect working order, then you need only assess the negative carriers that come with it and make sure you have what you need for the format you shoot. It's nice to have more than one enlarger lens, too, although I don't think it's crucial if you have what you need to start with.

Are you getting trays, safelight, timer, thermometer, grain focuser, print tongs, easel, etc? 

You may not know exactly what small item(s) you'll need until you get it all moved in and lined up for working. Take your time, and keep a list. Enjoy it!


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## JonnyVPA (Jan 30, 2007)

Are you getting trays, safelight, timer, thermometer, grain focuser, print tongs, easel, etc?

i dont think so..... where can i find that kind of stuff.... as well as... where the hell can i purchase chemicals


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## terri (Jan 30, 2007)

JonnyVPA said:


> Are you getting trays, safelight, timer, thermometer, grain focuser, print tongs, easel, etc?
> 
> i dont think so..... where can i find that kind of stuff.... as well as... where the hell can i purchase chemicals


If you don't have a local photography store that carries any of it, it's easy to find tons of this stuff online. You could start by looking at Freestyle (click the left-side banner above, the one that rotates with LensBabies). They're an awesome company to do business with. B&H, Adorama - any of them, really. 

Try locally first, since it's nice to be able to look at what you're getting in advance, and you could go in with a list and get some help.  If you're confident using eBay, that's another source, though you have to pay close attention to the condition of used supplies. I got both my safelights and a mess of trays through eBay.


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## rabidzoomer (Feb 1, 2007)

For B&W the darkroom should consist of running water (68-72*F), Enlarger, Chemical Trays (3), tub or something large that holds water to bath the photos after chemicals, Squeegie, easle, dryer or blow dryer.

Chemistry: Dektol, water, fixer.


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## Majik Imaje (Feb 15, 2007)

eye am an expert!!  

want proof??
 ha ha ha ha ha.. oh is this gonna be phun!!!



Lets have some phun.. 

first question:  what color do you PAINT a darkroom?



WRONG!!! ha ha ha ha ! Yeah I Know you didn't answer!

there is onlyl ONE COLOR TO PAINT A DARKROOM


WHAT IS IT ???

 then I will show you who I am !!!  (nobody) ha  ha ha ha ha.!!


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## Majik Imaje (Feb 15, 2007)

I have a piece of round cardboard.. circle.. flat..

I divide it into thirds. I paint each third a color

red green blue

when I spin that.....

what color will I see..??

THAT IS THE COLOR YOU PAINT A DARKROOM.. NOTHING ELSE!


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## Majik Imaje (Feb 15, 2007)

I have built  16 darkrooms.. COLOR  darkrooms.

I have been processing my own color since October of 19...... 69!

and I move around toooo much!!!


when you spin that wheel.. your gonna see  ??? WHAT color ?


first lesson.. "black is not a color"!

White... is the "presence" OF ALL COLOR(S)

BLACK IS THE ABSENSE OF ALL COLOR(S)

WHITE.. .. is the only color to ever paint a darkroom.. why?

IF A ROOM IS TOTALLY DARK (LIGHT TIGHT) it would not matter which.. color you painted it 

Now since we have a room that is DARK. .. paint it white!

guess what ?  It is still DARK

now turn on the safelights. ooooooooohhhhhhhhh!!!

you can see ! THE "SAFE" LIGHT WILL BOUNCE or REFLECT FROM THE WALLS, You... won't get tired working long hours!

Paint it black.. turn on the safe lights.. huh ?? I can't see.. 

and your going to get very tired very quickly BECAUSE. THE LIGHT WILL POOL on the walls. and you can't see squat!

Play rock music in your darkroom..?? you won't last very long..
Play classical music.. ha ha ha ha.. 4 years go by in 4 weeks!



this is a very small portion of darkroom #15.. working but not yet finished.. I had much to do..


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## nealjpage (Feb 15, 2007)

Wow, Majik, I think you've been working around the chemicals too long


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## Majik Imaje (Feb 16, 2007)

This is very true.. "CONTACT DERMITITIS"

just the fumes would make my skin break out like leprosy!

so .. don't think for one minute..you are immune.. wear examination gloves when working in the trays.

yeah 20 hours a day.. in my darkrooms!! for many years.!

I have a lot to teach you.. and please forgive my sense of humor!!

1973.. Kodak.. had ten millon on the table. for me! I will tell you this true story later.!


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## Majik Imaje (Feb 16, 2007)

I haven't used a camera since 1990. but I make a fortune from these images every year!  My Eskimo Images  http://majikimaje.com

buying photo equipment is very expensive. Hunts has the cheapest in the country ! Hunts  Massachusetts  Medford / Malden request a catalog

let your hobby pay for the new equip it is very easy to accomplish!


BUILDING A SINK is the absolute best way to go.. Place your trays inside the sink, now you dont have to worry about spilling!
temp control is an easy matter to achieve in this manner

Patterson trays are the best!  but I am sure new stuff has come out since I have last purchased anything. But the grooves are the important thing
don't use trays with smooth bottoms, I lile patterson trays because there are places to insert your finger to turn over the print.

I posted an image of darkroom #15

That sink, in less than four months brought in 12,000 dollars from one photo that I was selling for $3.00  1979

I was working at a nuclear power plant in the desert of Wa. state. Tri cities. Hanford.

Lampson had the world's largest crane on the job site. I would process 100  8 x 10  every night in two trays in that left hand side of the sink

I could do it in about two hours or less! just using two trays. only for processing.  first I would expose 100 sheets of 8 x 10 color paper

THEN OVER TO THE SINK. 1 quart of solution in each tray  Developer EP2

AND BLEACH (DARK RED)

3:15 SEC IN THE DEVELOPER  

WAIT A MINUTE.. 100 x 3:15? in less than two hours ?? how?

"trix are for kids"!  I was / am known as the "kodak kid" !!  

Kodak says.. you can process 3 sheets of paper at a time in one tray!

by placing them in the tray @ 20 second intervals

this works with black & white as well as color

they come out  @ 20 second intervals also Now you know why I have so many Gra-labs in my lab.

kodak says that with MUCH PRACTICE 6 sheets can be processed at one time

well..with MUCH PRACTICE  I GOT MUCH BETTER. THUS MY "SIG"

I am not here to brag .but to teach!  100 sheets 5 nights per week for four months @ 3.oo per sheet  that is what was made & how it was done.

we were doing 20 sheets at a time in just two trays.  It was a well choerogaphc ballet watching the two clocks one, for incoming and one for outgoing.

after each run. the trays had to be replensished with 3/4 new solution(s)

that is why I have    3 1/2 gallon contianers for the solutions

Even though I am in washington state I am still purchasing from Hunts

There was a camera shop in town Richland washington Sunland photo

for 8 x 10 color paper  local was $40 or $42 dolars for 100 sheets type N or F or E  hunts price  $25!

the moves to learn this tray ballet  do not require much practice but in essence

drop a sheet of paper into the tray face down and rock the tray gently
20 second later drop the second sheet in and press it down rock gently  20 sec later drop the third sheet and press it down and rock   now take the bottom sheet and bring it to the top and push it down and rockand repeat.. keeping track of the 3 sheets!  that all ! so if youever have to do "batch processing" this is the way to do it easily and quickly

when it is time to take them out. curl one sheetinto a roll and bring it up and let it drain for 5 sec and face down into the bleach or 2nd tray for B&w

Ihope you get an image some day soon, so you can learn how to batch process it is a lot of fun!  Print #1 and print #100 were always identical! 

thus my sig!


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## Majik Imaje (Feb 16, 2007)

Since I have had 16 different er 17.. I now have a digital darkroom

but it is not as much fun as the OLD WAY!...an actual darkroom. here is what I have learned.

any size area will do. BE CREATIVE..darkroom #2 was a walk in closet in my apartment. table altl the back w/enlarger/ color anylizer/timer/easel/noteook/pencil

color processing DRUM(S) an over sized film contianer that Holds paper instead of film . YOU CAN PROCESS ANY SIZE SHEET OF PAPER in a drum

they also work for B&W.!

a drum base ..so you don't have to manually roll the drum

GRA-LAB timers are the best.! 

search in your area, drugstores.. do you have any EMPTY BROWN bottles ?

grab all you can from where ever you can.. they are free. just ask around!

brown glass.. the best possible storage device for any chemical.

SPONGES.. PHOTOWIPES... "a dust free area" to let your film dry by hanging.. DON'T WASTE YOUR MONEY.. on fancy film clip holders to hang film

buy clothes pins!

don't ever buy.. something in a photo store that you can purchase someplace else..

for instance.. DON'T BUY a funnel in a photo store.. it might cost 6 - bucks WHERR if you go to say a hardware store or k-mart or such it is only 1.76 cents!

Now if you do this for 100 items.. whoa.!! you just saved a fortune!

HUNTS IS THE BEST IN THE COUNTRY.. trust me! adorama & B&W been there done that.. !

HUNTS HUNTS HUNTS.. compare.. I am not trying to fool anyone.. i know... from experience.!

no water source.. ?? HAVE SOME ONE make you a piece of 1/2 plexiglass to place on top of your tub. and use that as a surface to work on.

look at the sink photo and get something that can do that so you can have a thremometer to lok at as you adjust the water.

the kitchen is PERECT...but.. #1 RULE. sterile CLEANLIENESS IS AN ABSOUTE MUST  especially if your using color chemicals.

C-41 PROCESS the chemiacls you have to mix  to make the developer come in 3 parts.. part c is a tiny bottle  very tiny  EXTREMLY potent

take one tiny half drop into a full tub of water.. that water turns pink
empty the tub. fill it up THAT WATER IS TILL PINK
empty the tub. now fill it up..you can still see pink!!

I know I typed it twice.. it takes four to five times to get that pink out of the water.. 

SPONGES & RUBBER GLOVES sterile clean up WHEN ALL IF SINISHED IMMEDIATELY and everything is put back properly tu torn it back into a kitchen.  DO NOT STORE CHEMICALS IN THE KITCHEN you may use them in there but they are stored someplace else..  Under the bed is a very safe place  maybe ? on top of kitchen cabinets is ok.. but not under anything..just personal preference. contanimation ocurs easily..

keep all sponges clean!

and buy new ones when necessary

the enlarger. wel if you already have one.. that's that. 
Besler!! yes !! 23c go for it!!

w/ dicrohic color head.. get one.. your gonna make a lot of money!!

I promise!


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## Majik Imaje (Feb 19, 2007)

LETS JUST BUILD ONE.. HERE AND NOW!

what do we need and where should it be located


First we need an area to use. it doesn't matter how big.. or small.

i doubt that we have BIG area but a small one.

I have built plenty of small ones and many big ones. it doesn't matter.

work flo is the imporatnt consideration.. work moves in one direction only.. dont cross over.! more on this later


what height should the counter tops be.. ??   same as in your kitchen.


ABSOLUTLY NOT!   you will never last long hours working like that.

this is how you determine the EXACT height of yoru counter tops

have someone use a tape measure or long ruler

srand up straight..now bend your elbows so your  arms  are parallel to the floor.

take that measurement. THAT IS THE TOP of your bench.

now walk up to it. place your arms on that surface. see.. your straight

workng in a kitchen your gonna be bent over using that kitchen height.. it is too low.

Using this method you can stand there all day and the next day and your not going to deveop back pains!   I learned  the hard  way!

I dont want you to have to waste the time to learn this simple trick

your darkroom HAS TO BE PAINTED WHITE.. for maximum reflection of the safelights.

if you have an 8 x 10 foot area you got it made.. that is perfect size.

if you have a bigger area use it. 

if it is smaller then we just have to adjust the plan so to speak.

If you  have a sink alreqdy in that area.. good.. throw it out!

it is too low and too small! it is so easy to build a wooden sink! 

They will never leak, your trays are always in the sink therefore there is never any spillage!

temp control is an absolute must.  it is easilly done using an adapter shown in the image above. they are sold at most photo stores and the dual hose adapter is sold in hardware stores. hoses are a must! it just makes thing so much easier.

your enlarger should NOT be in the center of your main bench. No! if you do that, then your "crossing" and that is not  a good discipline to establish.

put it at one end or the other and continue the work flo in the direction that is present. dont go back and forth learn how to make it flo around the room and out!

BE BACK SOON FOR MORE INFO.


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## meesh (Mar 5, 2007)

wow...just by reading all of that makes me want to build my own darkroom!  ....even though my school's darkroom is only a 10 minute walk...


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## Majik Imaje (Mar 5, 2007)

GO FOR IT!....There is nothing in the world like having your own darkroom.

You arrainge everything so that everything has one place, and one place only.

THIS DISCIPLINE MUST BE ESTABLISHED and continued, for ONE REASON only... 

at some point in time, if your like me and forget something, YOU GOTTA find it.. in absolute darkness!  My biggest darkroom was 20' by 40 '

I have a huge 12 foot wooden sink with two shelves behind and above that.  TEMP CONTROL was so easy to mainatin..  68     75      92   101

were the temps I commonly used. the two lower ones for B & W and the hgher ones for color prints and color film  EP2 & C41

I would live in my darkroom literally, four years went by like four months.

if you have the room.. you want your bench tops 30" wide and to the bottom of your arms when bent parallel to the floor, walk up to the bench and your arms fit right on that plywood . Nice nice!!

your body is nice and straight and you can stand there all day long.

above that bench is at least one shelf two or three are much better

NOTHING on the enlarger bench has liquids.. nothing !  ever..reason is obvous.. that is where you will be placing negatives.. using PHOTOWIPES
to place them on. etc. you will soon learn why photowipes are a must have.

your sink should be the next area you visit after the enlarger or exposed sheet of paper is ready for processing. so . the shortest distance possible to that next step. then after the sink comes your other "dry" area, for retouching, matting, finishing etc.. no liquids at all around this area also. 
contain the wet area. the less likely accidents will happen.

sink height shoud be just about 6 - 8 " shorter than the enlarging bench.
but when put the sides on the sink that will bring up that edge to the same height so your always standing up STRAIGHT when working.

get a decent sound system.. stereo.. and "float" in the darkness to the music.. its ok.. no one can see! ha ha ha ha.!!!

Paint everything white.. except  your sink.. GO WILD with it.. !

bench tops should be  neutral grey for ease in color correction which should be done in the dry area.. when the print is dry. you cannot judge a color print for true color until it dries.  throw a drop or two of water on that dried print and it will look like "blue paint"  in a dark area.

it is a must to have flourescent lighting in your dry area, the more you have over your benches the better. 

if yu can't use 30" wide for a bench top then try 24"  but the wider the better.. you will see.. as soon as you start to work.

If you can fit a refrigerator in your darkroom by all means do so. for film and paper and food and drinks.

ventalation is very important but is easly accomplished by making a baffle in a wooden box

if you hae a door or window .. your batting 1000%

when you finally have your darkroom ready for use. what is the first thing your going to do?  get a chair.. shut off all the lights.. and sit there for 15 - 20 minutes.. and look all over everywhere.. and make absolutely sure.spend 1/2 hour if you have to, BUT THIS FIRST TEST is critical. so make sure you spend at least 20 minutes.

Once you have established that your room is light tight. now questions come.. where are you going to store paper? so that you can get one sheet quickly ?  INVEST IN A GOOD PAPER SAFE! it will save you so much time and agrivation.  don't just buy anything.. play with one and see how it works.. can you use just one hand?  you don't want your hands /arms crossing if you can avoid it.

what is the standard size paper your going to use..  8 x 10 of course.
buld your sink  so that 20 x 24" huge deep tray can fit into it.. for washing prints and get a kodak tray syphon pump gizmo thingy. they are perfect for achival print washing. I have prints here that are over 30 years old and they look brilliant color.. 95% of all my work has been stolen or thrown out by idiots!  Oh I didn't think you wanted those any more!  But My Eskimo images are barely intact.. we have ENOUGH but we lost over 400 of the very best ones.

Making money is easy if you have a darkroom.. that is the sole reason I am spending so much time on here. to show you the steps I took.

I am nothing, no body.. but i have made a fortune in photography, and continue to do so.. daily.  I want to show you the easy steps to accomplising all of this.. because I know  if I did it.. so can you! all you gotta do is follow the same exact steps.. it doesn't matter what the images are of.. or where they are taken.. PEOPLE LOVE PHOTOGRAPHS!

if your serious about building a darkroom.. give me more info and I can build it for you right here in a 3d program called 3D studio max and you can see how the sink would look and the size of everything BEFORE you actually do it.

oh yeah.. electricity in the sink area.. I will discuss the proper safe way to do this.. MY WAY!  SAFETY FIRST.. & safety second!!  no one ever gets hurt!


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## abonville (May 22, 2007)

My daughter is taking Photography I in high school.  Next year she is planning on taking Photo II.  Her pictures are out of this world and I really would like to create a dark room for her this summer so she can continue when school is out.  I was wondering what the cost estimate would be to convert a small bedroom into a dark room??

Anita Bonville
sisgannie@yahoo.com
www.beachbottoms.net
Bikinis, one-piece swimsuits, bathing suits, and, cover-ups


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## Torus34 (May 22, 2007)

It's basic and it's 'cookbook', but for a plain pipe rack approach to film, chemicals, etc., check the B&W series of articles on this site.


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