matt_89
TPF Noob!
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But the dev chart shows timings for Lomo film including Lady Grey and Earl Grey...
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Thanks for the information guys. I guess the best thing to do really is to buy some stuff and develop some film.
If anybody knows how to get a warm tone out of Lady grey ISO 400 film, then that would be awesome.
Also, it'd be nice if people could recommend chemicals and explain their results.
At the moment, I'm probably going to go Kodak D-76 dev, Ilfostop bath stop and Ilford Rapid Fixer.
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The next questions really are to do with development itself.
So once the films loaded, you pour in the developer and agitate it for however long it might take. I'm guessing the chart provided earlier will tell me the required dilution ratio.
Then tip of dev chemical and pour in bath stop. Again, required time varies but what about dilution ratio? 1:1?
Then tip that out and pour in fixer. What's the best way to find out how long fixer needs to go in for because this part is clearly just as important as the developer timing? And ratios too?
Then pour out and clean film with either water or water+wetting agent then dry.
Anyone got good tips to ensure all bubbles are eradicated?
With the same ISO, there is a 30s difference between TMax 400 and Lady Grey 400. Minimal but still a difference.
That other dev chart is quite comprehensive but unfortunately doesn't have the timings for Ilfosol 3 but it does give timings for another Ilfosol dev and saying that it needs to be developed for 7.
Therefore, the 6.5 min mark sounds about right. That's all with a 1+9 dilution. I'm guessing if I diluted it 1+14, I should develop it for 10min.
Was I correct how the test roll (just use any old roll of film and practice with)?
....
Enough for starters. If you are interested...
What I can I tell you. Like for the first film development done by yourself, without guidance except for the text books not bad. However far from good. What is important you went through the whole process and ended up with some images. Let say it is your benchmark for the next time. I suspect, that your photodtream contain pictures from few rolls as they are shot across longer period of time. Correct me, if I am wrong.....
Enough for starters. If you are interested...
Thanks for your reply. I'll check that site out! I would like some feedback on my photos, if possible. Do you see anything I could change to do it better? Shadows are bad? Photo too dark? Too light?
Thank you again! The only light meters I'm using are the ones in my cameras. Worth while to buy a light meter then eh? I didn't think the light meters in them were that bad! Yikes.First problems you may have will be with exposure. How do you arrive at yours ? Built in camera light meter ? What camera do you have ?....
Enough for starters. If you are interested...
Thanks for your reply. I'll check that site out! I would like some feedback on my photos, if possible. Do you see anything I could change to do it better? Shadows are bad? Photo too dark? Too light?
The film was already at 3200 Kodak P3200 film. I didn't push a thing. Looking at the photos I can see it's not an easy film to use. I certainly won't be using it for landscapes (not good for keeping detail in shadows -- grain is about as big as the trees!). But for close ups of different things, it should be okay.Looking at my prints from negs developed in Tmax Dev ddx must be really good, but then again, if you shoot at ISO 3200 you did some pushing what increased the grain.
Kodak P3200 or Ilford Delta 3200 are around ISO 1000. Kodak P3200 or TMZ is described as multispeed with EI 800 to 25000 so it is technically ISO 800. EI 3200 is the optimal push. If you look at the box you won't find ISO only EI. It stands for Exposure Index, it is not the same as ISO. This films are made to be pushed to that index or more, but the effects you can see for yourself. It requires some experimenting to develop them right.The film was already at 3200 Kodak P3200 film. I didn't push a thing. Looking at the photos I can see it's not an easy film to use. I certainly won't be using it for landscapes (not good for keeping detail in shadows -- grain is about as big as the trees!). But for close ups of different things, it should be okay.Looking at my prints from negs developed in Tmax Dev ddx must be really good, but then again, if you shoot at ISO 3200 you did some pushing what increased the grain.
Rollei12 said:I recently started developing my own film. I'm curious how I can improve. Here's my flickr page: Flickr Sketches on Film s Photostream
Looking for critiques here on the photos with chemicals listed. (Scanned prints from lab otherwise)