Keeping the camera clean

[Aqua67]

I must say I like how this forum pulls up potential threads which may have already covered your topic of interest.

I’m looking for some information on which cleaning items you use most in a camera cleaning kit. I don’t want to buy products I don’t need in some cleaning kit so I’m looking for what you use most often and what I can do without when it comes to keeping my camera clean. My minimum cleaning kit idea would probably be a bulb for blowing dust off, a little soft brush, and perhaps a cleaning solvent and little cloth. Would that be a good basic cleaning kit for a beginner?

 

[Original katomi]

Add an extra cloth other wise you seem to have it covered

 

[cgw]

Don't get obsessive about "cleaning" your camera. Some will object but slap a quality UV filter on your lens(es). Blow off, scrub or scour that instead of your front element. Get eyeglass cleaner. Costco sells it thru their instore optical depts. Broad soft make-up brushes do just fine. Just don't buy this stuff from camera stores where low quality+high mark-up are the rule. Small micro-fiber cloth towels for glass can usually be found in auto supply stores with cleaners/waxes/polishes. Squirt a bit of eyeglass cleaner on a hand towel or wash cloth to occasionally clean your camera body. Change lenses with the camera switched off and learn to remove and attach lenses with the mount pointed down--both help keep crud off the mirror and sensor.

 

[Aqua67]

Add an extra cloth other wise you seem to have it covered

Thank you. I will pick these things up today.

 

[smoke665]

I threw away my UV filters several years ago, and haven't looked back. They aren't needed on modern glass, and can actually accentuate lens flare. If you look at most manufacturer's websites they state "not designed for lens protection", and I've seen a lot of video tests that confirm the protection aspect is minimal.

I learned to clean my lenses from an old pro. All you need is Distilled water and Q-Tips. Dip a Q-tip in the water and starting in the center of the lens make concentric circles round, and round until you get to the edge. Flip the Q-tip over to the dry side and starting in the center repeat, when you get to the edge grab a new Qt-tip and keep repeating until the glass is fully dry. If you still see anything on the lens repeat. Never use the same Q-tip twice. All cleaners can leave a residual haze, and all cloths can pickup residual dust particles, that will scratch.

When changing lenses you always point the camera down so any dust dislodged will fall out, not on your sensor.

A brush is good for dusting the outside, but trying to dust inside with one is ill advised. They likely contain a ton of dust Iparticles. for the inside your first choice is a blower. Any good bulb blower will work. Again with the camera upside down, blow up so hopefully any dust dislodged will fall down and out.

Inevitably you will find "dust bunnies" have populated your sensor. If the blower doesn't remove them, your next step is buy some Sensor Swabs for your size sensor. Sensor Swab Ultra | Sensor Cleaning for DSLR and Mirrorless Cameras | Sensor Swab®, Cinema Sensor Cleaning Cleaning a sensor isn't hard, but the first time you do it a stiff drink helps to calm the nerves. You place ONE drop of the included fluid on the swab pad. Start at one edge, apply pressure and pull straight across. Lift the swab, turn it over and go back. NEVER REUSE A SWAB and do not overload the swab with fluid, excess fluid can leave a haze. Check for dust and repeat if necessary. DO NOT USE THE LITTLE sticky pencils, you'll end up with a gob of goo on your sensor.

If you're at it long enough you'll eventually encounter oil or grease on the sensor. Having a Sensor Scope helps you determine what you're dealing with. Many times they come with a swab kit. SensorScope - Delkin Devices . If you encounter oil or grease the cleaning fluid in the kits, WILL NOT REMOVE IT. As the last step in removing a pesky spot, instead of the cleaning fluid in the kit use ROR Residual Oil Remover (2.0 oz) If the ROR doesn't remove it, you'll need to send it for service.

 

[Aqua67]

Thank you so much Smoke665, this is the kind of wisdom I’m hoping to collect. Thank you again.

 

[cgw]

I threw away my UV filters several years ago, and haven't looked back. They aren't needed on modern glass, and can actually accentuate lens flare. If you look at most manufacturer's websites they state "not designed for lens protection", and I've seen a lot of video tests that confirm the protection aspect is minimal.
I learned to clean my lenses from an old pro. All you need is Distilled water and Q-Tips. Dip a Q-tip in the water and starting in the center of the lens make concentric circles round, and round until you get to the edge. Flip the Q-tip over to the dry side and starting in the center repeat, when you get to the edge grab a new Qt-tip and keep repeating until the glass is fully dry. If you still see anything on the lens repeat. Never use the same Q-tip twice. All cleaners can leave a residual haze, and all cloths can pickup residual dust particles, that will scratch.

Don't recall Nikon posting a disclaimer about the inadequacy of their NC filters. The impact sufficient to bust them on several Nikkors I own would surely have damaged an unprotected front element and/or filter threads. Flare? Maybe but not proven. Preference isn't necessarily science.

The less cleaning the better and I can't see where the "old pro" regimen would dramatically reduce or eliminate the circular "cleaning marks" that mar front elements on many used lenses.YMMV, as always.

 

[smoke665]

The less cleaning the better and I can't see where the "old pro" regimen would dramatically reduce or eliminate the circular "cleaning marks" that mar front elements on many used lenses.YMMV, as always.

All cleaners leave some sort of residual haze unless completely removed, which in turns causes more pressure on a cloth, any residual dust on the lens or cloth is more prone to scratching the lens. Distilled water is free from compounds that might cause haze and the pressure used on Q-tips is minimal. Been doing it 50+ years never had an issue with the distilled water and Q-tips. I have had issues with cleaning fluid. To each their own.

on't recall Nikon posting a disclaimer about the inadequacy of their NC filters. The impact sufficient to bust them on several Nikkors I own would surely have damaged an unprotected front element and/or filter threads. Flare? Maybe but not proven. Preference isn't necessarily science.

From B&H in particular read the last paragraph https://www.bhphotovideo.com/explora/photography/tips-and-solutions/when-not-use-uv-filter The UV filter is a carry over from the film days, when it was necessary, but nowadays it's more of unnecessary relic. There are holdouts that swear by them, and equally strong opinions for not using them. Neither side will likely be swayed. If it floats your boat go for it, but at the least you need to spend $$$ for one that won't affect your image quality.

 

[webestang64]

Every other month or so we have a customer come in with a lens and a broken filter. Far as I know all have saved(?) the lens. Who knows I do not sell there I work in the lab.
Only filters I use as a film shooter are a polarizer and colored filters for BW. To protect my Pentax lens from bangs I use a metal lens hood (plastic on my Canon A2E).