Which flash meter?

[Thiophilos]

I'm looking at the Sekonic 308 and the more expensive Sekonic 478... which to get? I want to use it to set lighting ratios in my studio.

Currently I'm using an old Minolta IIIF which I inherited, and it is not consistent enough. Readings bounce around by 1/3 stop typically.

So my concern is accuracy. Reviewers sing the praises of the precision of the 478.... but maybe the 308 is OK too.

Does anyone have any words of wisdom?

 

[smoke665]

I've had the L308 for years, in studio it does everything I need consistently and accurately. Outside where you need to restrict it to non- incident spot, it's not always as accurate, I normally rely on camera to take spot readings. In years past I used a Pentax digital spot meter, but the continued advances in camera metering pretty much made the Pentax meter obsolete.

 

[Thiophilos]

I've had the L308 for years, in studio it does everything I need consistently and accurately. Outside where you need to restrict it to non- incident spot, it's not always as accurate, I normally rely on camera to take spot readings. In years past I used a Pentax digital spot meter, but the continued advances in camera metering pretty much made the Pentax meter obsolete.

How consistent would consecutive readings be? With my ancient IIIF, I got f/ 4 8, 5.6 2, 4 9 as three consecutive readings at a particular power. ("4 8" means f/4 and 8/10 of the way to the next stop, so almost 5.6.) It is saying roughly 5.6, but there is a spread of almost half an f stop. How would this compare to the Sekonic?

 

[smoke665]

, but there is a spread of almost half an f stop. How would this compare to the Sekonic?

First you need to consider that with the incident dome in place that the meter is reading an average of a broad area, so any change in positioning of the meter will read slightly different. Other than that I've never noted any significant differences in the meter. Don't get overly concerned about small discrepancies.

To set my ratios I first place the incident meter pointed toward the key, back to side of face and take a reading, set your power to the desired level. Go to the other side and with the meter pointed toward the fill adjust the light to the desired ratio. I generally put my kicker on the key side adjusted to equal just under the key. Now place the meter under the subjects chin, pointed toward camera and with all lights firing take a reading. That will be your camera aperture reading. To adjust your aperture up/down you adjust all lights equally.

 

[Thiophilos]

OK, thanks. I will set my goals a bit lower and if necessary take average readings.

 

[smoke665]

OK, thanks. I will set my goals a bit lower and if necessary take average readings.

All light travels in straight lines, and is subject to to the Inverse Square Law which in simple terms says the area covered by a light source increases 4 fold when you double the distance and the intensity decreases by 2 full stops. What that means in studio is that on a full body shot, a reading of f/8 on the cheek with a medium modifier could read less than f/4 at the feet.

 

[cgw]

Start with the 308. Next to the immortal 398m, it's Sekonic's longest running model. Strong seller, so finding a nice one used shouldn't be hard. I also have a 558 I like for its cord/cordless flash capability and multi-ISO settings. Having a 1% spot is nice but hardly mandatory, though. Put lots of sessions on my bought-used 308. Nice having a AA-powered meter, too!

 

[JBPhotog]

The L-478 has a rotating head which is handy if you are standing at the subjects position you can point the meter at your main light or camera. It also has the ability to profile your camera to get accurate dynamic range lighting ratios. You can also set it for flash and ambient ratios if you want mixed lighting accuracy. If it's in the budget go for the L-478.