What is the best camera for extreme closeup macros?

[jhbodle]

I have recently got into extreme closeup macro photography, taking pictures of insects from a few centimetres away like this one:

Currently I use my Casio EX-ZR100 compact camera for this because it can focus 1cm away from the subject. However, I want a camera that can do this easier. I need:

- The whole insect to be in focus, so I guess a small aperture and a small sensor (for less DOF) would be best
- Better image quality and sharper images would be nice
- Image stabilisation is a must as all these shots are taken handheld

Trying this with my Canon 5D MkII with 100mm L Macro lens is an exercise in futility as the insects quickly fly away when they see this huge shadow approach. It also only focuses from 35cm away, which is nowhere near close enough. I have researched and can make cases for the following cameras:

- Sony NEX-5 with 30mm Macro (10cm focusing, good image quality but will the large sensor give a too shallow DOF for my purposes?)
- Canon Powershot G12 (Hybrid image stabilisation, 1cm focusing but only goes up to f8 which I don't think will be enough)
- Pentax Q (tiny sensor that should allow for wide DOF as long as it supports apertures like f16)

Any ideas on what I should go for? Or should I pick something else entirely?

 

[480sparky]

You might want to look into focus stacking.

 

[jhbodle]

You might want to look into focus stacking.

Already have - the fact that I'm hand holding at close up range and the fact that the insect flies away after a second or so scuppers the focus stacking plan unfortunately.

 

[bigtwinky]

catch a bug, throw it in the freezer, remove, shoot

 

[jhbodle]

catch a bug, throw it in the freezer, remove, shoot

Bit harsh for the bugs! But i'm out in the field when I'm taking these pics so thats not really an option. Speed is of the essence! I only have a few seconds to capture the shot before it's gone so any camera that makes this as easy as possible for this specific type of shot will get my cash...

 

[tirediron]

The camera itself has little to do with macro photography, other, than as you have alluded to, the depth of field increase that comes with smaller sensors. I don't think you're quite clear on your understanding of what a macro photograph is or what a macro lens does. A macro lens is one that produces a 1:1 image on the camera's sensor, in other words, if an insect is 1cm long, it will be recorded as 1cm long on your camera's sensor. How close the lens focuses to the subject has nothing to do with it. In fact, that's why longer focal length macro lenses are so expensive: They can achieve 1:1 reproduction at greater distances from the work. What you may want to look into are extension tubes which allow you to achieve significant magnification by moving the lens further from the sensor, and a tank of CO2 from your local welding shop. This will allow you to 'knock out' the insects preventing them from flying away. That way you will be able to take the required number of images for a stacked focus shot.

 

[tirediron]

catch a bug, throw it in the freezer, remove, shoot

Bit harsh for the bugs! But i'm out in the field when I'm taking these pics so thats not really an option. Speed is of the essence! I only have a few seconds to capture the shot before it's gone so any camera that makes this as easy as possible for this specific type of shot will get my cash...

400mm f2.8 w/ extension tubes. Done.

 

[mjhoward]

I think you're confused about a few things. First, the camera is going to have much less to do with macro work than the lens and lighting rig will (lighting is extremely important and often overlooked). Second, how close you can focus (working distance) doesn't really tell you much about magnification. For example, take the Canon 60mm macro and the Sigma 150mm macro lenses. The closest focusing distance for the 60mm macro is 7.87" while the closest focusing distance for the 150mm macro is only 15". They both, however, give the same 1:1 magnification at these working distances. If you want to be able to focus closer and get a larger than 1:1 magnification, you can add extension tubes.

Getting the entire insect in focus is just the nature of the beast. The closer your subject is to the lens, the shallower the DOF is and unfortunately for macro work, DOF is razor thin. Stopping down a lot is one option, and the other as Sparky has mentioned, is focus stacking. Unfortunately focus stacking won't work unless your subject is still. Stopping down is going require a lot more light if you want a sharp image handheld. Another thing is that Image Stabilization in a lens is going to be nearly useless. IS only works in the XY plane and does nothing for your Z-axis. So although you might get a stabilized image side to side, your subject is still going to moving in and out of focus as you breathe.

 

[jhbodle]

The camera itself has little to do with macro photography, other, than as you have alluded to, the depth of field increase that comes with smaller sensors. I don't think you're quite clear on your understanding of what a macro photograph is or what a macro lens does. A macro lens is one that produces a 1:1 image on the camera's sensor, in other words, if an insect is 1cm long, it will be recorded as 1cm long on your camera's sensor. How close the lens focuses to the subject has nothing to do with it. In fact, that's why longer focal length macro lenses are so expensive: They can achieve 1:1 reproduction at greater distances from the work. What you may want to look into are extension tubes which allow you to achieve significant magnification by moving the lens further from the sensor, and a tank of CO2 from your local welding shop. This will allow you to 'knock out' the insects preventing them from flying away. That way you will be able to take the required number of images for a stacked focus shot.

CO2 eh? I'll look into that, as long as it doesn't harm the insects...

I've heard of this 1:1 magnification thing, but don't fully understand why it's necessary. For example I just want the insect to fill the image so I can get the most detail out of it. Yes I can do this by zooming in from a distance away but the convenience of that 1cm macro setting is amazing.

 

[mjhoward]

catch a bug, throw it in the freezer, remove, shoot

Bit harsh for the bugs! But i'm out in the field when I'm taking these pics so thats not really an option. Speed is of the essence! I only have a few seconds to capture the shot before it's gone so any camera that makes this as easy as possible for this specific type of shot will get my cash...

400mm f2.8 w/ extension tubes. Done.

That would be an extremely long lens. You'd need 340mm of extension just to get 1:1
That would make the entire lens with tubes 27" long!

 

[manaheim]

OP is nicer than me. He's worried about hurting the insects.

 

[Destin]

For the way you are describing the method you want to shoot with, it sounds like the camera you already have is going to fit the bill best.

As is becoming clear in this thread, if you wish to dive further into macro photography, you'll need to change your shooting style to work around the optical limitations.

You might consider looking into a macro flash setup as well, as it would make a greater DOF easier to achieve, and help with freezing motion.

 

[jhbodle]

I'm sure I am in need of education on this as this area of photography is new to me. At the moment, I walk around, see a cool insect, whip out the Casio and take a picture of it from a few centimetres away. I'm sure it doesn't have 1:1 magnification, but the insect fills the frame and is nice. With the 5D MkII it seems so much harder! Focusing from 35cm away even with f16 only part of the insect is in focus and that part changes as soon as I breathe.

Will a macro flash be useful even in daylight?

 

[Destin]

I'm sure I am in need of education on this as this area of photography is new to me. At the moment, I walk around, see a cool insect, whip out the Casio and take a picture of it from a few centimetres away. I'm sure it doesn't have 1:1 magnification, but the insect fills the frame and is nice. With the 5D MkII it seems so much harder! Focusing from 35cm away even with f16 only part of the insect is in focus and that part changes as soon as I breathe.

Will a macro flash be useful even in daylight?

Yes, a macro flash would be useful in daylight. You could actually use it as your only source of light, and eliminate all ambient light if that's what you wished to do, simply by selecting a low iso/fast shutter speed(within your sync speed)/small aperture. This is something you'll learn down the road though, just work with ambient for now and build your skills. Dedicated macro flash systems can get expensive. Actually, I'm not sure if Canon even makes one. I'm a Nikon guy, and I know that they make a great one.

The most important thing for macro photography, outside of the camera and lens, is a GOOD tripod. If you don't have your camera on a solid base, you don't stand a chance.

Also, you said you're using a 5D II, which, obviously is a full frame camera. You would have an easier time getting a deeper DOF on a crop sensor DSLR, such as the 7d. I wouldn't run out and sell the 5d. Not a chance. But if you get serious and can afford another body, I'd say that a crop sensor is better for macro. And 4/3 would be better yet.

 

[D-B-J]

One with a knowledgeable photographer behind it. Who understands lighting, etc.

Really, any DSLR with a macro lens will be appropriate. Lighting is VERY important as well.