Using an old manual lens on a Nikon D80

jwise · Dec 8, 2010

I just recently bought an old manual Nikon 135mm f2.8 lens, and I want to use it on my D80.

I have a 50mm f1.4, which has been my absolute favorite lens. What I like about this lens, is that I can take pictures indoors with a high ISO, and not mess with flashes. In fact, I only have the SB-400, which is of little use (I told my wife to get me the good one, but she came back with this one!)

Well, however good the 50mm is, sometimes you just want to reach out just a little more. This picture was taken from a few rows back at my daughter's Pre-K Christmas Program:

Of course, I can always crop it, as I did here:

But I really wanted a little longer lens, so I wouldn't lose so much when I crop. Enter the Nikon 135 f2.8!

Now, for taking pictures of things like my daughter's Christmas Program, I don't need a fancy-schmancy lens that does all its own calculations. I was raised on a fully-manual camera (Canon AL-1), so I know how to manually focus, adjust aperature/shutter speed, etc...

However, once I got home with my new lens, I discovered something. Not only is the screen completely blank, not giving me any help in reaching optimal focus (I knew this), but there is no metering! Oh well, no biggie. Like I said, the use for this lens will be for either "fun", or when I have time to set up and get everything ready (like at a Christmas Program). Through trial and error, figuring out the right settings is pretty easy on a digital camera, as the preview screen provides instant feedback.

I'm thinking I'm going to start bracketing my shots, both automatically and with different focal settings, just to make sure when I get that one good shot I get multiple exposure settings and multiple focal settings.

With this in mind, I have begun playing around a little, and really like what this little lens can offer!

All taken inside at night, with only incandescent lighting.

So, for those of you who shoot manual lenses on your digital SLRs, what tricks should I employ to get the most out of my experience? For those with D80s, what settings do you use? I confess I need to go back to the instruction book and read up on automatic bracketing, etc...

Derrel · Dec 8, 2010

Keep the shutter speed in the range of 1/90 second to 1/125 second and you'll minimize camera shake. The 135/2.8 AI and Ai-S Nikkor lenses are actually pretty decent lenses,and are affordable. You coffee pot shot appears to show a slight bit of camera shake...anogther suggestion that REALLY, rerally can help tremendously when shooting at ther margins is to shoot each shot in a 3-or even 4-shot sequence, with the camera set to Continuous release, so that only ONE press of the shutter release button is used to trigger 3 or 4 shots. The actual pressing of the release button can cause a bit of a jerk or shudder or moving of the camera, and the second or third photo is often sharper that the first. On many shots, like a static child on a set of risers, the idea is to get a "for the record photo", and not to capture precise, split-second timing, so in those types of situations, or on static subjects, shoot at least 2-shot, and better yet 3-shot mini-bursts whenever you're pushing the envelope with the slow shutter speeds and or the tricky focusing that goes with shooting wide-open at f/2.8 or so with a 135mm telephoto lens.

jwise · Dec 8, 2010

Yes, I was definitely shooting "at the limits" with this lens. I was very impressed, however, at the sharpness of the photos when taken at slower shutter speeds than you mentioned (I assumed 125 would be the lowest I could take and still get a crisp image). The coffee pot was 1/40 if I'm not mistaken!

Derrel · Dec 8, 2010

Well, that's the nice thing about a small,light, compact prime lens like a 135/2.8--its "limits" are pretty amazing compared with the pathetic f/5.6 of most kit or consumer zooms today! The f/2.8 aperture admits soooooo much more light than that piddly f/5.6 maximum aperture value on a a 55-200 or 18-200mm all-in-one zoom lens. The more you practice good hand-holding and smooth shutter release, the lower your own personal limit will become!

djacobox372 · Dec 9, 2010

If you enjoy using the older glass you may consider upgrading your body to a d200 or d300 so you can have metering capability.

jwise · Dec 9, 2010

So, I shot my son's Christmas program tonight, with the aid of my new Nikon 135 f/2.8 lens! The program was held in the cafeteria, with decent lighting. I was pleased with the results. All photos were taken at f/2.8, 1/160 and 1250 ISO. No post-production other than cropping:

I'm still having a little bit of a focus issue, but its been a while since I did my focusing by hand, and without a focusing screen its a bit difficult.

All in all, I am THRILLED with the results. DEFINITELY worth the $100!

phototransformations · Dec 14, 2010

Just tried using one of my old manual Nikon-mount lenses, a Tamron Adaptall 2 with N/AI mount, and got a F-- error, which is preventing me from shooting. Is there a setting in the camera I need to make to allow it to shoot with these AI lenses?

I'm dimly remembering that there is a way to tell the camera to shoot even if something is not in focus -- is that what I need to change? Or is there a way to tell the camera that I am using a manual lens, and there is no CPU in the lens to connect to?

Thanks!

PavementPilot · Dec 14, 2010

phototransformations said:
Just tried using one of my old manual Nikon-mount lenses, a Tamron Adaptall 2 with N/AI mount, and got a F-- error, which is preventing me from shooting. Is there a setting in the camera I need to make to allow it to shoot with these AI lenses?

I'm dimly remembering that there is a way to tell the camera to shoot even if something is not in focus -- is that what I need to change? Or is there a way to tell the camera that I am using a manual lens, and there is no CPU in the lens to connect to?

Thanks!

I believe you are referring to 'Shutter Lock'

bruce282 · Dec 14, 2010

phototransformations said:
Just tried using one of my old manual Nikon-mount lenses, a Tamron Adaptall 2 with N/AI mount, and got a F-- error, which is preventing me from shooting. Is there a setting in the camera I need to make to allow it to shoot with these AI lenses?

I'm dimly remembering that there is a way to tell the camera to shoot even if something is not in focus -- is that what I need to change? Or is there a way to tell the camera that I am using a manual lens, and there is no CPU in the lens to connect to?

Thanks!

What camera and what mode are shooting in? In order to use my nonCPU lenses on my D90 I have to shoot in manual mode only. Plus metering doesn't work.

Bruce

phototransformations · Dec 14, 2010

I'm using a D80, as per this thread. Through trial and error I found that if I shoot in M mode, the shutter will fire. Focus confirmation appears to work, metering not to work, which is what I expected. Still have F-- showing, but I suppose that is not a problem. Should I be setting anything else on the camera to be as compatible as is possible with these lenses? Toggling the MF/AF doesn't seem to matter, and I can't find any settings that obviously apply.

I've acquired a decent collection of AI-era primes and telphotos for use on my Panasonic G1 and it would also be nice to use them on the Nikon and see how they compare to my more modern lenses.

Best,
David

Layspeed · Dec 15, 2010

I bought a manual focus Tokina 80-200 f/4 to use on my D90 a few weeks ago. I mounted it and got the F-- but took two pictures with it in Manual mode and it seemed to work fine. I haven't had time to mess with anymore though.

jwise · Dec 18, 2010

The camera will show F-error, in that it doesn't know what the F-stop (aperture) is set at. Switch the lens to MF (switch on left side of body), and set the rotary dial to M. Use the preview screen as a light meter.