Graflex Norita 66

hannaphotoz

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Recently came across a Graflex Norita 66 I believe. I want to know what the best way to know what this is worth and either learn to use it, or sell it? Can I even get film for this anymore?
IMG_3975.webp
 
Hello and welcome, interesting old camera. Film is still available ... :encouragement:
 
I'd keep it, test it and enjoy. Dead? Attractive doorstop...
120 film survives!

How would I know if it works? And do I just buy any 120 film? Would absolutely loveeee to learn how to use it and it seems to be in great condition aside from slight wear. It also came with an extra lens. Found it at a thrift store for dirt cheap and want to learn more
 
Welcome to TPF! :)

Yes, this camera takes 120 film, and any brand would do.

You bought it at a thrift shop, which sounds unlikely that anyone there would have any idea where it came from or its working condition. If you have an actual camera shop in your area, let someone there open it up and tell you if it needs a good CLA (clean/lube/adjust), which is usually the first thing an old beauty like this needs. Check out seals, etc.

Otherwise, just dropping film into it now and possibly discovering that the film advance seems off or there's shutter drag won't mean much other than to go have it cleaned. So my advice would be to start there. It could be in fine condition already if the prior owner loved it.

Enjoy your journey - have fun with it!
 
How would I know if it works? And do I just buy any 120 film? Would absolutely loveeee to learn how to use it and it seems to be in great condition aside from slight wear. It also came with an extra lens. Found it at a thrift store for dirt cheap and want to learn more
Read the manual linked above. If it has a light meter, it's likely battery-powered. That battery's even more likely to be dead. If the meter is dead, either a handheld meter or phone app meter is necessary.
Buy the cheapest 120 b&w available(Ilford XP-2 Super is good). Trust there's a nearby lab?
I'd buy two rolls. One will be sacrificial to learn loading/advancing/unloading. Get that down before actually shooting.
Finding a CLA tech is easier said than done for offbeat oldies like this. They're totally mechanical. Commonly, shutter timing can be off due to gunked-up lube in the shutter train. Try it at the slowest speed and work your way up. Little or no difference in speed is audible, e.g., if 125sec sounds/looks like 1/8sec, you've got a problem.
Good luck. Tell us what you find?
 
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Read the manual linked above. If it has a light meter, it's likely battery-powered. That battery's even more likely to be dead. If the meter is dead, either a handheld meter or phone app meter is necessary.
Buy the cheapest 120 b&w available(Ilford XP-2 Super is good). Trust there's a nearby lab?
I'd buy two rolls. One will be sacrificial to learn loading/advancing/unloading. Get that down before actually shooting.
Finding a CLA tech is easier said than done for offbeat oldies like this. They're totally mechanical. Commonly, shutter timing can be off due to gunked-up lube in the shutter train. Try it at the slowest speed and work your way up. Little or no difference in speed is audible, e.g., if 125sec sounds/looks like 1/8sec, you've got a problem.
Good luck. Tell us what you find?
This is so incredibly helpful!!! I just ordered a roll of film and will see how it works out!! I think it has a little left in it now. I am located in Colorado and found a repair shop that is about an hour away that I’ll take it to here in the next couple days. I appreciate all the guidance
 
This is so incredibly helpful!!! I just ordered a roll of film and will see how it works out!! I think it has a little left in it now. I am located in Colorado and found a repair shop that is about an hour away that I’ll take it to here in the next couple days. I appreciate all the guidance
No worries. Medium format is different. You'll find that shooting apertures larger than f5.6 usually produces very shallow DOF. Then there's the weight. They work best on a tripod/monopod since shutter speeds will often be low-ish. Stability=sharpness. It's just a different gestalt than 35mm or digital. Get some sharp b&w negs scanned and see for yourself. Here's one:

Kodak TMY-2
Mamiya RB67 Pro S+Sekor 90/3.8c
Nikon D7200 DSLR scanned b&w negative

BWHDSFXAa.jpg
 
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