Bone head move.

[Grandpa Ron]

I was in a bit of a rush to develop two rolls of 120 format film.

I loaded a roll into my Yankee tank as I have done many time before, poured in the 50:1 Rodinal developer, drained an then added the Stop mixture. However, instead of the Stop I had grabbed the Fixer. At that point all I could think to do could do, was increase the fixer time from my usual 5-6 minutes to 8 to 10 minutes.

I ran the second roll correctly and there does not seem to be any difference. I know some folks skip the stop and simply rinse with water. However using the Stop mixture is the common practice. So, my question is, "Does the lack of a Stop mixture in the processing have any affect on the negative?"

 

[Original katomi]

In time there will prob be a difference
In the days when the press used film they sometimes rushed and got the pic in the next edition but after a few months the negs were trash

 

[Soocom1]

The stop is simply an acid that kills the development process.
With a touch of vinegar, you can stop it now and keep the negatives for later.
The concept is to keep the developer from continuing the process.

I hit some film in almost exactly the same way in the late 1980's. those negatives are still just fine today.

 

[JBPhotog]

It is likely a logarithmic scale related to the time of development. So a really fast developer will continue to develop in some areas where the surface tension is not broken by the fixer. It's been way too many years since I developed in Rodinal at that dilution but I suspect your dev times are moderate so you may not see any changes across the negatives.

 

[webestang64]

"Does the lack of a Stop mixture in the processing have any affect on the negative?"

Only thing would be if you put the fix in and did not at least run water through going from fix straight to dev might leave a stain. Otherwise like the others said you will be fine.

 

[Derrel]

I think you will be okay really. About the only time that I think acid stop bath is really necessary is when you are using a really powerful, fast-acting developer, such as HC-110 when it is used at low-dilution strength and you have a 3- minute to 3 minute 30 second developing time as a result, but when it is used at a more-diluted strength such as the excellent and reliable Dilution B strength,that which will give you a you a 7- to 9-minute development time, I do not think that it is absolutely imperative to use an acid stop bath. I developed hundreds of rolls of Tri-X black and white film in the mid-1980s using either plain white vinegar or water in between the developer and the fixer stage, and those negative are all fine.

In 1986 I developed 60-some rolls using Rodinal diluted 1 to 100... oh how I wish I had stuck with HC-110. After seeing the difference between HC-110 and Rodinal I regret every single roll of film I ever developed in Rodinal. Each of these rolls was given a name and number such as R-1 and ending at R - 6 7.... today the "R" stands for Regret, not Rodinal. At the time I was 23 years old, and subsequent printing and scanning ( years later) showed me the difference between a 35mm negative which had been developed in Kodak HC-110 and which had been developed in Rodinal. At the time I was mostly shooting film and making very few prints and the Rodinal negatives looked great,but they did not print ot scan nearly as well as HC-110 frames.

 

[Grandpa Ron]

With the Rodinal mixture of 50:1, and an 8 minute development time, I figured developer would be neutralized by the fixer but I was not sure.

While I did some films and photos in high school and college that was over fifty years ago, so I am starting pretty much from a novice standpoint. I selected the Artista EDU series of film, chemicals and paper, simply to re-learn the basics, as I resurrect some very old gear.